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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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l^|2£    125 

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Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEbSTER.N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


tkiiei 


^ 


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'^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductlons  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historiques 


1 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
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□ 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      j    Covers  damaged/ 


D 


Couverture  endommag^e 

Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicuide 

Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


0 


D 


D 


n 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 


Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 


Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
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□    Bound  with  other  material/ 
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Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
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II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lors  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  M  filmdes. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppldmentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilm^  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'ii  lui  a  6X6  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sont  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  mdthode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiqu6s  ci-dessous. 


I      I    Coloured  pages/ 


D 
D 
D 

D 


D 
D 


Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/ur  laminated/ 
Pages  restaur^es  et/ou  pelliculdes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachetdes  ou  piqu^es 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  d^tachees 


I      I    Showthrough/ 


Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  materit 
Comprend  du  materiel  supplementaire 


r~~|    Quality  of  print  varies/ 

I      I    Includes  supplementary  material/ 


Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
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obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  6t6  film^es  d  nouveau  de  facon  dk 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqud  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


12X 


16X 


20X 


26X 


30X 


\7] 


¥. 


24X 


28X 


32X 


I 

i 


i 

itails 
i  du 
odifier 
-  une 
mage 


}rrata 
to 


pelure, 
n  d 


The  copy  filmed  here  hes  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupllcatlon  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
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Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
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first  page  with  c>  printed  or  illustrated  in^pres- 
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The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ►  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
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entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


1 

2 

3 

L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
gnndrositd  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photodupllcatlon  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
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conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim^e  sont  filmds  en  commenpant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmds  en  commengant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Stre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diffdrents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Stre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  cllch6,  11  est  filmS  d  partir 
de  Tangle  supdrieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mSthode. 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

\ 


\ 


"T 


PALMS  AND  PYRAMIDS. 


^ 


\ 


\ 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS 


it^ 


ON 


/S^(s> 


MISSIONARY  LANDS 


Descriptive  Sketches  of  a  Missionary  Journey  through 

Egypt,  Palestine,  India,  Burmah,  Malaysia, 

China,  Japan,  and  the  Sandwich 

Islands 


K^ 


ats*- 


a 


BY 


.>--Z 


Rev.  a.  B.   SIMPSON 


ly/ri/  OVER  TWO  hundred  illustrations 


NEW  YORK  S^/^f^  J 

THE  CHRISTIAN  ALLIANCE  PUBLISHING  CO. 
692  Eighth  Avknub 


\ 


\ 


Entered  Recording  to  the  act  of  Congress,  in  the  yea.  .893.  by 

A.  B.  SIMPSON, 

I  „  the  office  of  the  Librarian  of  Congress,  at  WaBhingtoB. 

Atl.  RIGHTS  RESERVED. 


> 


THB  ALt-IARCB  PBBSa 

TRINTrBS 

134  WKST  2&TH  8T.,  H"W  TO»K 


PREFACE. 


Thk  following  pages  contain  the  substance  of  a  number 
of  missionary  letters,  written  from  the  East  in  the  winter 
and  summer  of  1893,  with  careful  revisions  and  considerable 
additions. 

These  letters  were  written  in  the  course  of  a  very  rapid 
journey ;  and,  while  they  had  the  advantage  of  the  freshness 
and  inspiration  suggested  by  the  immediate  presence  ot  the 
scenes  and  incidents  described,  yet  they  may  bear  the  marks 
of  haste,  and  they  make  no  pretension  whatever  to  literary 

merit. 

Under  ordinary  circumstances,  their  publication  in  per- 
manent form  would  scarcely  b"vo  been  justified  ;  but  in  this 
case,  a  large  constituency  oi  .xrsonal  friends  was  kind 
enough  to  insist  upon  the  privilege  of  preserving,  as  a  perma- 
nent memorial,  those  messages  from  abroad,  which  they  were 
pleased  to  value  at  the  time  with  an  appreciation  which  we 
cannot  help  crediting  to  their  personal  affection  for  the 
writer,  and  their  deep  interest  in  the  mission  fields  and  work 
described  in  these  letters,  rather  than  to  any  pre-eminent 
value  in  the  papers  themselves. 


. ,  .^.*.MiwM*ii  jfiJ  liiUlmtillU'miW^ 


'   f 


4  LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

With  a  profound  sense  of  this  feeling  on  their  part,  the 
author  and  publishers  have  endeavored  to  set  these  sketches 
in  as  attractive  a  frame  work  as  possible,  and  they  sincerely- 
trust  this  volume  will  be  accepted  by  thousands  of  hearts,  as 
a  loving  memorial  of  the  affectionate  prayers  that  sustained 
the  author  in  his  long  journey  with  an  intense  and  delight- 
ful consciousness  of  a  fellowship  in  Christ,  stronger  than 
the  barriers  of  space  and  time ;  and  that  it  will  be  con- 
sidered a  grateful  acknowledgment  of  the  loving  co-operation 
which  these  dear  friends  are  still  giving  to  him  in  the  great 
object  of  his  life— to  hasten  the  evangelization  of  the  world 
and  the  preparation  of  our  Lord's  return. 

To  promote  this  great  end  v  as  the  object  of  his  journey 
abroad  and  the  purpose  which  inspired  these  pages  If  the 
reading  of  these  sketches  and  the  examination  of  the  many 
beautiful  pictures  accompanying  them  shall  inspire  a  deeper 
interest  iu  heathen  lands  in  the  hearts  of  even  a  few,  and 
shall  lead  the  people  of  God  to  a  more  intelligent,  self-deny 
ing  and  heaven-baptized  consecration  to  the  one  great  desire 
of  the  Master's  heart,  and  the  special  work  for  whose  ac- 
complishment His  coming  waits— the  world's  immediate 
evangelization— we  shall  greatly  rejoice,  and  feel  that  the 
labor  bestowed  on  this  modest  message  has  not  been  in  vain. 

Once,  it  is  said,  a  desert  wanderer  found  a  crystal  spring 
of  surpassing  freshness.  The  water  was  so  pure  that  he  felt 
unworthy  to  drink  it  himself,  and,  after  barely  satisfying  his 
thirst,  he  filled  a  leathern  bottle  with  the  crystal  liquid  and 
bore  it  across  the  desert  as  an  offering  to  his  chief. 


PREFACE. 


fc,  the 
itches 
;erely 
Is,  as 
ained 
light- 

than 
I  con- 
ration 

great 
world 


urney 
If  the 
many 
leeper 
iT,  and 
-deny 
desire 
se  ac- 
ediate 
it  the 
L  vain, 
spring 
lie  felt 
nghis 
d  and 


Days  passed  beneath  the  desert  sun  before  he  reached 
the  palace,  and  when  he  brought  in  his  offering  and  laid  it  at 
the  feet  of  his  master,  it  had  become  corrupted  and  putrid. 
But  the  king  would  not  let  his  faithful  subject  oven  imagine 
that  the  water  was  unfit  for  use.  He  tasted  the  water  with 
expressions  of  gratitude  and  delight,  and  sent  back  the  loyal 
heart  filled  with  joy  and  gladness. 

After  he  had  gone,  the  princes  asked  to  taste  the  water, 
and  expressed  their  intense  disgust  and  surprise,  that  the 
king  could  even  pretend  to  enjoy  it. 

"Ah"!  said  the  king,  "it  was  not  the  water  I  tasted, 
but  the  loyal  love  that  prompted  the  offering,  and  made  it  a 
most  delightful  draught,  from  the  heart's  crystal  spring." 

So  our  offering,  like  all  that  man  can  do,  is  marked  by  a 
thousand  imperfections  ;  but  we  believe  our  Master  accepts 
the  motive,  and  we  trust  that  He  will  make  this  message  a 
draught  of  blessing  to  His  household. 

At  His  feet  we  dedicate  it,  and  to  His  name  be  all  the 
glory  I 


CONTENTS. 


Thb  Winter  Sea 
Days  in  England 
On  The  Continent 


I. 

IL 
HI. 
IV. 


On  The  Blue  Mediterranean 

V, 

First  Impressions  of  Egypt      -  ■ 

VI. 

First  Glimpses  op  Palestine 

VIL 

Days  in  Palestine 

vni. 
Under  The  Shadow  of  The  Pyramids 

IX. 

IsMAiUA  to  Bombay 


Our  Work  in  Berar 


X. 


XL 


Berar  to  Nellore  and  Madras 

XIL 

Madras  to  Bombay 

XIIL 

Bombay  to  Benares       ... 

XIV. 

From  The  Himalayas  to  The  Hooghly 
t 


0 

15 

28 

83 

40 

50 

60 

103 

123 

151 

167 

188 

204 

230 


■  • 

11 

CONTENTS. 

XV. 

Leaving  India 

- 

XVL 

Calcutta  to  Bubmah 

•                           • 

XVII. 

Among  The  Malays 

- 

XVIII. 

First  Impressions  of  Southern  China 

XIX. 

Missionary  Work  in  Southern  China 

XX. 

Shanghai  and  its  Missionary  Work 

XXL 

On  The  Yangtse 

XXII. 

Down  The  Yangtse  . 

XXIIL 

To  The  Northern  Capital 

XXIV. 

Last  Glimpses  of  China 

XXV. 

The  Missionary  Outlook  in  China 

XXVI. 

First  Glimpses  of  Japan     - 

XXVII. 

Across  Japan  by  Rail    - 

XXVIIL 

Last  Days  in  Japan 

XXIX. 

The  Situation  in  Japan 

XXX. 

Home  Coming 

XXXL 

The  Missionary  Outlook 


353 

274 

294 

81T 

346 

864 

376 

394 

418 

452 

467 

485 

504 

529 

543 

565 

675 


ass 

294 
817 
846 
864 

876 
894 

418 
452 
467 
485 
504 
529 
643 
565 
675 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


FULL  PAGE  ENGRAVINGS  REPRODUCED  FROM  ORIGINAL 
PHOTOGRAPHS  AND  FOREIGN  PAINTINGS. 


Palms  and  Pyramids 

Port  Said  and  the  Northern  End  ok  the  Canai.. 

Ships  ok  the  Desert.  ... 

Jakka  krom  the  Sea. 

Donkey  and  Veiled  Lady.       ... 

Calvahy.       --.•-- 

Jerusalem  and  the  Mount  ok  Olives. 

Bethany.      -...-- 

Gethsemane.     -  .  -  -  - 

Bethel.        -  -  -  -  • 

The  Nile  and  the  Pyramids. 

The  Sphnix.  .  .  .  .  - 

Interior  ok  Moslem  UNivERi^iTY  ok  Cairo. 

Victoria  Street,  Bombay. 

A  Groups  at  Igatfuri. 


Frontispiece. 

O})p<M<teI>a0«. 
40 


la 


(A  Kodak  Photograph). 


-  45 
50 

-  58 
70 

..   72 

7<^ 

-  78 
82 

III 
116 
118 
144 
155 


L 


\*^,~i'i.^^^^r*mf 


J 


■^?r 


I  ^ 


IV. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


The  Girls'  Orphanagk. 

The  Christian  Alliance  Convention,  Akola. 

A  Roadside  Scene.        -  -  ^         ' 

r\.  j!^Kjn.uz,  ^^  Kodak  Photograph). 

Mr.  Simpson  and  Coolie  Cart.  ^   -      .' 

lYiK.  vjx™    .:.  ^^  Kodak  Photogfraph). 

Bangalore.        -  -  ■  "  * 

On  the  Road  to  Mahabalashur.  - 

VJJN    1  nn  J>.w  ^^  Yio&aii.  Photograph). 

On  the  Road  to  the  Ghauts.    ^  .       ' 

Kjss  i.B.j^  >■  (A  Kodak  Photograph). 

The  Gospel  of  Healing,  in  Marathi.     - 

John  iii:  i6,  in  Marathi. 

In  the  Garden  of  the  Taj^^^  ;,„,„,„;,, 

Side  View  op  the  Taj.  ^^  ^-^^^  p,„,;^,p,,  " 

The  Taj,  Agra.  -  -  *  * 

T?TioNT  View  op  the  Taj.  '     ,.»    *  " 

TROWl    Viivvy  (A  Kodak  Photograph). 

Benares.  -  -  -  - 

Darjeeling.      --"'*' 
Palms  in  Royal  Botanical  Gardens,  Calcutta. 

The  Image  of  Gautama,  Rangoon. 
ShwEE-da-gone  Pagoda,  Rangoon. 

Shwee-da-gone  Pagoda.  .        -  -  • 

A  Malay  Coffee  Plantation. 
The  Traveller's  Palm.  .  -  - 

A  Malay  Village.  .  -  -  - 


SBC 


!   i 


IV. 


ILLUSTRATIONS. 


The  Girls'  Orphanagk. 

The  Christian  Alliance  Convention,  Akola. 

A  Roadside  Scene.        -  "  ^ .       Ix 

ri.  ivw^    .3  ^^  Kodak  Photograph). 

Mr.  Simpson  and  Coolie  Cart.  ^  -     .' 

i»ijx..  wxi      a  (A  Kodak  Photograph). 

Bangalore.        -  -  "  '  * 

On  the  Road  to  Mahabalashur.  - 

^^  (A  Kodak  Photograph). 

On  the  Road  to  the  Ghauts.    ^  .       *  ^ 

^^  *  (A  Kodak  Photograph). 

The  Gospel  oe  Healing,  in  Marathi.     - 
John  hi:  i6,  in  Marathi.  -  -  ' 

In  the  Garden  of  the  Taj.      -  - 

J.IN    ixi«  v^  (A  Kodak  Photograph). 

^TDP  View  of  the  Taj.       -  "      ^v   ' 

OIDl!,   V  liiw  wr  J     ^^  vioAt^V  Photograph). 

The  Taj,  Agra.  -  -  '  " 

I^RONT  View  op  the  Taj.  -  • 

r  KU«  ±    V  i»  ^^  Kodak  Photograph). 

Benares.  -  "  "  ' 

Darjeeling.      -  -  "  '  ' 

Palms  in  Royal  Botanical  Gardens,  Calcutta. 

The  Image  of  Gautama,  Rangoon. 

Shwke-da-gone  Pagoda,  Rangoon. 

Shwee-da-gone  Pagoda.  -  -  • 

A  Malay  Coffee  Plantation. 

The  Traveller's  Palm.  .  -  • 

A  MalavVillage. 


ILL  USTRA  TIONS, 


A  MAI.AY  Family.  -  .  •  • 

Hong  Kong.  .  -  -  - 

Thk  Temple  of  Five  Hundred  Gods,  Cantow. 
Chinese  Lady  Embroidering.       -  - 

^  Reproducedfrom  a  Chinese  Painting. 

Chinese  Priest  and  Temple.  -  - 

Reproduced  from  a  Chinese  Painting. 

Gate  of  Woosung  Fort,  Shanghai. 
Chinese  Idols,  Shanghai.  -  - 

Pagoda,  Shanghai.       .  -  -  • 

A  Group  of  Chinese  Missionaries. 
Temple  at  Hankow.    -  -  -  • 

The  "Little  Orphan,"  Yangtse  River. 

Rafting. 
Ching  Kiang. 


Reproduced  from  a  Chinese  Painting. 


Chinese  Buffalo  Carts.  -  - 

(^ « ir< nao       u  Reproduced  from  a  Chinese  Painting. 

The  Temple  of  HEA^^N.  - 

Chinf.se  Sawing  Lumber.    -     "  .  .,  * 

V-tn«  r.OD  w.  Reproduced  from  a  Chinese  Painting. 

A  Chinese  Family.  -  -  ■ 

Interior  of  a  Mandarin's  Apartments. 
Chinese  Punch  and  Judy.  -  - 

^"  Reproduced  from  a  Chinese  painting. 

Japanese  Travelling  AT  Night.         -  • 

J  fYrft.«  iw  Reproduced  from  a  Japanese  Painting. 

Image  of  Kuradani,  Kyoto. 

Temple  of  Three  Thousand  Gods,  Tokio.    • 


3" 
321 

329 
335 
340 
365 
367 
368 
379 
386 

396 
411 
416 
432 

438 
448 

456 
460 
462 
504 
495 
509 


Hi 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS 


ON 


MISSIONARY  LANDS 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS 


ON 


MISSIONARY  LANDS 


\ 


■-WMlWttJ-'WWI^ 


ii 


1  ii 


.L. 


THE  WINTER  SEA. 

IT  would  not  have  seemed  quite  consistent  if  the  "Servia" 
had  started  on  time.     So  she  sailed  half  an  hour  behind 
time,  and  our  friends  were  critical  enough  to  say  it  was 
because  we  were  on  board. 

For  more  than  a  month  we  had  been  getting  ready  to  go 
away,  and  in  order  to  gain  a  little  on  the  already  full 
schedule  time,  we  had  been  obliged  to  work  from  sixteen  to 
twenty  hours  a  day.  The  last  few  nights  we  had  scarcely 
dared  to  trust  ourselves  to  a  good  sleep,  and  so  it  was  a 
strange  sensation  to  find  ourselves  oo  the  "Servia"  with  an 
hour,  nay,  a  week,  perhaps,  of  actual  leisure. 

We  cannot  thank  the  Master  enough  for  the  delightful 
courtesies  amid  which  we  were  permitted  to  begin  our  lonely 
journc> .  The. farewell  meetings  in  the  Tabernacle  were  full 
of  the  Spirit  of  God  and  the  simple,  hedrt-felt  kindness  of 
His  people.  Thinking  of  twelve  years  ago,  we  felt  like 
Jacob,  when  he  said  :  "With  my  staff  I  passed  over  this 
Jordan ;  and  now  I  am  become  two  bands." 

We  were  permitted  to  leave  quietly,  only  about  a  dozen 


\ 


.- '  ^  f^/  asTgii/^if?*r*'tf^i«i_'-' ,".  ■7'ii'  '(■-^  r  ."■ 


«-.»*,»',K^;W»^»-V<-'  -r- 


lO 


LARGER   Ol  Tl.OOk'S  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


friends  breaking  through  our  request  and  accoinpanyiug  us 
to  the  ship.  We  felt  the  sharp  strain  of  many  thousand  heart- 
strings, but  a  eweet  sense  of  God's  approval  and  the  unity 
and  sympathy  of  all  our  dear  friends  in  the  purpose  of  our 
journey. 

We  left  New  York  amid  bitter  cold,  and  our  ship  cut  her 
way  all  the  way  down  the  Bay  through  thick  and  heavy  ice. 
But  when  we  got  out  to  sea,  we  found  the  waves  still  and 
calm,  and  a  mighty  Presence  seemed  walking  on  the  waters. 
It  is  blessed  to  go  forth  encompassed  by  such  a  cloud  of 
prayer. 

Before  twenty-four  hours  had  passed,  however,  we  had 
a  taste  of  the  winter  sea ;  and  our  second  night  on  board  was 
so  rough  that  the  trunks  went  crashing  in  all  directions  in 
the  tossing  ship,  and  few  slept  much.  It  was  the  effect  of 
an  old  storm  that  had  passed  ere  we  came  to  sea.  For 
twenty-four  hours  the  sea  ran  very  high,  and  we  all  kept 
quiet.  By  the  evening  of  the  third  day  the  waters  calmed, 
and  we  were  able  to  do  some  work  again. 

On  Wednesday  we  sailed  into  the  Gulf  Stream,  and 
Thursday  was  almost  like  a  summer  day— the  south  wind 
laden  with  balm,  and  the  sky  clear  and  bright. 

Most  of  our  passengers  are  English  people.  It  is  a  good 
school  for  character  study.  How  comfortable  and  self-com- 
placent some  people  are  !  It  was  refreshing  to  see  a  middle- 
aged  Englishman  knock  his  head  against  the  hanging  frame 
full  of  wine  glasses,  and  smash  some  of  them,  and  then 
summon  the  steward,  and  ask,  with  immense  dignity,  how 


\ 


THF.   LISTER  SEA. 


IX 


« this  extraordinary  thing  could  have  happened.'  We  shoiUd 
have  been  covered  with  confiiwon  and  apologies,  and  ready 
to  pay  for  the  broken  glasses  ;  but  this  comfortable  gentle- 
man seemed  to  expect  an  apology  from  the  steward,  and 
even  from  the  wine  glasses  for  hitting  his  head,  or  being 
there  at  all.  Well,  there  are  people  and  people.  How  some 
people  waste  their  time !  What  would  they  not  give  at  the 
end  for  a  Uttle  ?    And  yet  they  throw  years  away  at  the  be- 

^'°The  fai-ther  we  get  from  the  hallowed  influences  of 
home,  the  more  do  we  feel  the  need  of  Christian  fellowship 
and  prayer,  and  the  more  do  we  thank  the  blesse<l  Comforter 
for  the  bonds  of  communion  that  cross  all  seas  and  conti- 
nents, and  flash  their  messages  of  love  and  sympathy  from 
land  to  land.  The  chronometer  of  our  ship  has  gamed 
nearly  four  hours  since  we  left  New  York,  but  the  clock  of 
the  heart  keeps  time  to  a  second  from  heart  to  heart  all 
around  the  world. 

Yesterday  was  our  Friday  Meeting  m  .\ew  York.  But 
we  needed  no  calendar  to  tell  us  when  it  was  three  o'clock 
on  Friday  afternoon.  The  very  cloud  of  the  Sanctuary 
gathered  round  us,  and  we  were  held  for  three  blessed  hours 
hi  the  innermost  chamber,  and  at  the  very  gate  of  heaven 
We  could  almost  feel  the  breath  of  those  holy  prayers,  and 
for  hours  afterwards  the  sweetness  hngered  like  the  twilight 
after  sunset,  or  the  fragrance  of  a  spice-laden  ship  from 

some  tropical  isle. 

And  so  we  are  taking  our  dear  readers  with  us  as  we  go 


12        LARci  h'  orri.ooKS  ox  nrrssioyAKV  i.ANPS. 

forth  in  their  name  and  yis  to  look  over  a  lost  world,  and 
seek  to  find  some  yet  wiser  way  to  win  it  for  His  crown. 

Perhaps  they  will  forgive  these  simple,  personal  lines 
that  have  come  to  us  as  we  have  thought  of  those  we  love, 
and  longed  for  their  sympathy  and  prayei- : 

ALL  AROUNd  THE  WOr'.D. 

All  around  the  world  I  journey, 

Over  many  a  land  ; 
Bearing  forth  the  great  comniisBlon, 

At  the  Lord's  oominand. 
Many  a  danger  lies  around  me, 

Many  a  dart  is  hurled, 
But  I  know  His  love  will  guard  me 

All  around  the  world. 

There  are  cables  underlying 

Every  ocean  wide, 
Chords  of  lo*e  and  prayer  are  stronger 

Than  the  Atlantic's  tide. 
There's  a  ladder  up  to  heaven, 

Everywhere  we  roam  ; 
And  the  gates  of  prayer  can  never 

Find  us  far  from  home. 

Hold  me  closely  every  moment 

In  the  arms  of  prayer ; 
Lfct  me  feel  your  fragrant  oenserB 
'  With  me  everywhere. 

Let  rae  know,  as  ever  onward 

I  am  swiftly  whirled, 
Hosts  unseen  are  marching  with  me 

All  around  the  world. 

Brothers,  let  us  stretch  our  heartstrings 

Wide  as  human  woe, 
All  around  this  world  of  sorrow, 

Let  our  blessing  go. 


I  .1 


THE  WINTER  SEA,  13 

Over  every  land  and  nation 

Be  HlH  flag  unfnrlod  ; 
•  Send  the  goHiM>l  quickly,  quickly, 
All  around  the  -world. 

With  early  dawn  on  Sabbath  morning,  Jannary  21,  we 
sighted  Fastnet  Lighthouse,  Ireland'H  first  landmark.  We 
had  sailed  along  an  invisible  pathway  across  tlu»  unmarked 
Bea  and  the  unerriug  compass  had  guided  us  within  an  mch 
of  our  aim.  The  navigator's  faith  had  located  that  promon- 
tory there,  and  lo  !  the  vision  of  actxial  sight  found  it  real. 
So  our  faith  in  God  should  sail  in  trackless  waters  and  find 
the  soUd  reality  answer  to  our  trust. 

We  had  scarcely  come  abreast  of  the  shore  line  when 
the  fog-whistle  began  to  soimd,  and  we  were  enveloped  in  a 
cloud  as  sudden  as  it  was  dense.  But  it  lifted  as  quickly  as 
it  came,  and  in  a  hour  we  were  steaming  up  to  Queenstown 
Harbor  in  a  blaze  of  warmth  and  sunlight  worthy  of  the  na- 
tional character.  It  seemed  as  if  old  Ireland  was  smiling  all 
over  in  token  of  the  welcome  she  was  giving  to  the  pastor 
and  associate  of  some  of  her  children  in  America. 

A  loveher  day  we  had  never  seen.  After  the  cold  winter 
sea  it  was  indeed  most  cheering,  and  our  inmost  spirit  kept 
whispering  all  day,  "Then  they  are  glad  because  they  be 
quiet,  so  He  bringeth  them  to  their  desired  haven. '  We 
just  caught  the  "  Etruria"  in  time  to  send  our  mails  back  to 
New  York  by  her.  Had  we  been  an  hour  later  our  friends 
would    have  had  to  wait  a  week    longer  for  their  letters 

from  us.  ,    X         ^ 

We  waited  at  Queenstown  only  long  enough  to  send 


14 


I..iNUl:h-  Of  n.OOhS  i>.\    J//XV/OA    /A')-  f.AMKS. 


urthore  »  '^-w  i>usHengers,  and  wvon  hundred  mail  bags  from 
all  wenteiu  lands,  including  a  great  lot  from  China  and 
Japan,  and  then  we  steamed  away  to  LiveriK)ol. 

( )ur  own  guoenstown  mail  brought  uh  kind  letters  of 
welcome  from  England  and  Sweden,  with  enough  invitations 
to  kw'p  u«  from  feeling  lonesome  in  London. 

Midnight  brought  us  to  Holyhead.     Long  and  late   .ve 
lingere<l  on  deck  watching  the  fascinating  play  oi  the  lights 
along  the  shoren  of  old  England.    The  system  is  a  i)erfect 
alphabet  of   naval  signals.     Some  were  red,  some  yellow, 
some  white,  most  of  them  Hash  lights,  but  with  such  differ- 
ent kinds  of  flashes  !    Some  would  disappear  altogether  for  a 
minute,  then  return  ;  others  would  wink  three  times  in  quick 
succession  and  then  blaze  away  for  two  or  three  minutes ; 
and  othei-8  hide  their  torches  at  regular  intervals  of  ten  sec- 
onds.   We  could  see  how  a  pilot  could  easily  read  the  very 
names  of  every  station  along  that  bold  and  dangerous  shore. 
Oh,  that  each  of  us  might  have  a  light  so  definite,  so  dis- 
tinct, so  clear  and  intelligible,  that  both  earth  and  heaven 
might  read  it  every  moment,  and  others  sail  by  it  on  life's 
dangeroxis  sea  !    And  happy  might  we  be,  if,  like  these  lights 
on  the  coast  of  Wales,  even  our  very  moments  of  obscura- 
tion and  trial  might  only  give  to  our  shining  a  more  em- 
phatic and  vivid  glory  and  significance,  so  that  our  dark- 
ness and  our  light  might  'ooti-  dil'e  glorify  our  Father  in 
heaven,  and  bless  and  heir  onv  fv  5'>^v  men. 


8  from 
la  and 

tens  of 
tatioiiB 

ate   W6 
i  lights 
perfect 
yellow, 
1  differ- 
er  for  a 
n  quick 
linutes ; 
ten  sec- 
he  very 
8  shore. 
,  80  dis- 
heaven 
on  life's 
36  lights 
abscura- 
lore  em- 
ir dark- 
ather  in 


11. 
DAYS    IN    ENGLAND. 

MONDAY  uioiuing,  quite  early,  we  wove  sent  ushoiv 
Liveri)ool,  on  the  Cunard  tender.     We  werr  met 
the  dock  by  our  kind  and  attt'iitive  English  agentb 
and  they  showed  us  every  courtesy,  helped  us  through  the 
custom  house,  sent  off  our  telegra  ns  and  letters,  and  saw  us 
to  the  train  for  London.     Mr.  Mili^  gave  us  very  interesting 
information  about  our, recent  missi  niary  parties.     He  spok- 
especially  of  dear  Clara  Stromberg  of  the  Congo  party,  and 
h(.w  she  had  endeared  herself  to  niMiy  friends  in  Liverpool. 
Her  face  and    voice  were  the  last   and  brightest    memor- 
ies of  the  large  party  that  had  saileci  out  of  Liverpool  last 
summer  for  the  Congo.     Dear  Clara  swept  swiftly  tluough 
her  heavenly  orbit,  but  it  was  a  ver.    bright  one,  and  now 
she  is  shining  and  singing  over  yonder 

Liverpool  was  thick  with  fog  as  Q  leenstown  was  bright 
with  sunshine.  We  asked  a  young  mai  in  the  hotel  if  it  was 
often  thus.  He  said  he  had  not  seen  the  ^un  for  four  months  ; 
bat  he  added,  with  a  cmel  bit  of  selfish  omfort,  it  was  noth- 
ing to  London.  It  was  Dean  Ramsay,  e  believe,  who  told 
of  the  Scotchman  who,  when  asked  by  disgusted  traveler 
"if  it  always  rained  thei-e,"  good  naturedly  answered: 
"Na,  na  ;  it  sometimes  snaws." 

(.S 


l6  LARGER  orri.OOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

Well,  rain  or  snow,  beautiful  England  is  beautiful  all  the 
same  !  Here,  in  January,  as  we  ride  through  the  valleys  and 
l)lains  of  Derbyshire,  the  fields  are  almost  as  green  as  sum- 
mer ;  the  farmers  are  plowing,  the  sheep  and  cattle  are  graz- 
ing in  the  pastures,  the  ground  is  covered  with  crows  ;  there 
is  no  frost  nor  snow,  and  even  the  hedges  have  just  been 
pruned,  and  are  waiting  to  send  out  their  fiist  buds  and 
branches  in  a  little  while. 

What  causes  all  this  general  f ruitfulness  ?  We  are  far 
north  of  the  latitude  of  New  York.  It  is  the  Gulf  Stream 
from  the  tropics,  that  bears  a  perpetual  tide  of  balm  and 
blessing  to  these  ocean  isles.  Oh,  if  our  spiritual  lives  could 
only  abide  in  the  great  Stream  of  Life  and  Love  that  comes 
flowing  down  from  the  Summer  Land  beyond  the  unseen 
sea,  what  a  temperature  we  should  enjoy,  what  fniitful  lives 
we  should  have  ! 

"  There'd  be  no  sorrow  in  our  song, 
No  -winter  in  our  year." 

We  reached  London  on  exact  time,  and  found  friends 
waiting  to  welcome  us.  The  home  of  dear  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Brodie  is  a  home  indeed,  and  has  been  the  hospitable  resting- 
place  of  all  our  outgoing  missionarios.  Words  cannot  express 
the  obligations  of  the  Alliance  for  the  kindness  of  these  dear 
friends,  who  combine  the  second  and  third  epistles  of  John 
in  very  deed,  and  are  the  Gains  and  the  Elect  Lady  of  our 
precious  work.  We  found  that  dear  Peter  Scott  had  left  and 
passed  us  on  the  way,  returning  on  the  ' '  Germanic. " 


1 1 


'■'•~-U~. 


DA  YS  /jV  ENGLAND. 


17 


1  all  the 
leys  and 
as  sum- 
ire  graz- 
3 ;  there 
1st  been 
uds  and 

3  are  far 
Stream 
aim  and 
,res  could 
it  comes 
B  unseen 
tful  lives 


i  friends 
and  Mrs. 
e  resting- 
)t  express 
hese  dear 
s  of  John 
dy  of  our 
d  left  and 


We  found  our  friends  in  Jjondon  had  arranged  to  make 
the  most  of  om-  time,  and  we  are  having  a  busy  and  blessed 
week. 

Monday  night  we  had  the  pleasure  of  addressing  a  meet- 
ing at  the  Friends'  Meeting  House,  and  met  some  choice 
spirits. 

Tuesday  found  us  in  the  City,  busy  enough,  at  our  agents, 
our  shipping  office,  and  many  other  places.  We  were  per- 
mitted an  interview  with  the  Honorable  Secretary  of  the 
Church  Missionary  Society,  and  obtained  some  most  valua'-;l'. 
information  i-especting  the  Soudan,  and  especially  the  Niger 
and  Binnue  Rivers.  We  were  able  also  to  make  satisfactory 
arrangements  with  Messrs.  John  Snow  &  Co.,  Ivy  Lane, 
London,  for  a  full  supply  of  our  Alliance  books,  tracts,  and 
weekly  papers  to  be  kept  in  London. 

In  the  evening  a  very  kind  reception  had  been  arranged 
for  us  through  the  courtesy  of  Miss  Gurney  and  others. 
The  meeting  was  held  at  the  Hall,  Adam  Street,  Strand,  and 
was  attended  by  many  of  the  Christian  workers  of  London, 
and  those  especially  who  had  become  interested  in  our  work. 
It  was  a  touching  surprise  and  we  trust  a  blessing  to  many. 
The  Lord  ""/vras  present  in  great  power,  especially  in  the  after 
meeting  for  prayer,  which  was  one  of  the  most  blessed  and 
solemn  we  have  ever  felt.  The  Lord  permitted  us  to  speak 
a  little  of  the  work,  and  more  of  Himself,  and  we  were  con- 
scious of  a  delightful  sympathy  and  fellowship  of  heart. 
Among  those  present  were  Miss  Gurney,  Rev.  Evan  Hop- 
kins, Rev.  F.  B.  Meyer,  Rev.  Mr.  Mantel,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 


\ 


'l-'^?^^*l^»£=!''^"«^  -ITB*'..-. 


l8  LARGER   orrLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

Eeader  Harris,  Mrs.  J.  Hudson  Taylor,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brodie, 
Prof.  Bartlett,  Miss  Fannie  Gregson,  of  Ceylon,  and  many 
others.  Their  loving  sympathy  was  a  breath  of  cheer  on  our 
long,  lonely  journey  to  the  East. 

We  have  just  heard  from  our  Swedish  party,  and  they 
will  be  here  to-morrow,  7).  T.,  on  their  way  to  Southampton 
and  China.  We  had  the  pleasure  to-day  of  calling  at  Fins- 
bury  Square,  where  our  India  party  of  missionaries  stayed, 
and  we  were  rejoiced  to  hear  the  gracious  words  of  the  Super- 
intendent and  others  respecting  the  blessing  tbey  left  behind 
them.  They  are  now  on  their  way  to  India,  and  the  last 
section  will  arrive  about  February  1. 

Wednesday  morning  fomid  ns  at  our  business  agents, 
our  bankers  and  the  Foreign  Office,  arranging  for  passports, 
vises,  etc.,  in  order  to  be  able  to  go  to  Egypt  and  Palestine. 
In  the  afternoon  we  went  to  Bethshan,  and  met  many 
dear  old  friends.    We  felt  the  cloud  of  blessing  as  we  turned 
the  corner,  and  we  knew  God  was  still  there.    Mrs.  Baxter 
was  there,  and  led  the  meeting.     Mi-s.  Boardman  was  also 
]»resentwith  her  quiet,  triumphant  spirit,  after  all  the  changes 
and  trials  of  eight  yeai-s.    Mrs  Brodie  has  also  become  a  reg- 
ular worker  at  Bethshan,  although  this  afternoon  she  was 
called  out  to  attend  a  meeting  of  Jewesses  in  another  room. 
Miss  Murray  is  at  present  in  Sweden,  although  she  still  re- 
tains her  relation  to  the  work.     The  Wednesday  meeting  is 
regulariy  kept  up  at  Bethshan  HaU,  and  God  still  owns  the 
work  and  testimony  by  His  healing  power. 

But  the  Bethshan  Home  has  been  changed,  and  is  now 


■f  1.1 


7W. 

re.  Brodie, 
and  many 
eer  on  our 

,  and  they 
ithamptou 
g  at  Fins- 
ies  stayed, 
the  Super- 
eft  behind 
id  the  last 

3SS  agents, 
passports, 
I  Palestine, 
met  many 
,  we  turned 
[rs.  Baxter 
n  was  also 
the  changes 
come  a  reg- 
3n  she  was 
•ther  room. 
3he  still  re- 
meeting  is 
U  owns  the 

and  is  now 


DA  YS  IX  ENGLAND. 


19 


used  not  for  gu^ :<ts  who  come  to  seek  for  healing,  but  as  a 
Training  Institute  for  Missionaries.  The  friends  in  charge 
felt  that  the  various  local  homes  indifferent  parts  of  England 
were  meeting  the  need  which  it  has  supplied,  at  least  in  some 
measure,  and  that  more  could  be  accomplished  for  God,  for 


LONDON. 

the  present,  at  least,  by  using  it  to  meet  the  increasing  needs 
of  the  missionary  training  work. 

This  work  has  grown  steadily  and  substantially.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Mueller,  the  former  superintendents,  have  them- 
selves gone  out  to  India  as  superintendents  of  the  mission  in 
Berar  that  has  grown  out  of  this  Institute ;  but  a  Christian 


J 


20 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MLSSIONARY  LANDS. 


worker,  formerly  in  Ceylon,  has  taken  their  place,  and,  as- 
sisted by  Mrs.  Baxter  and  others,  is  carrying  on  a  most  excel- 
lent work,  and  has  a  school  of  about  twenty-five  students. 
We  have  one  of  them,  Mr.  Bannister,  in  our  work  in  Akola, 
and  he  is  doing  good  service.  We  met  one  or  two  others 
who  may  yet  be  used  of  God  in  the  Alliance  mission  work. 

The  Wednesday  meeting  at  Bethshan  was  large  and 
blessed,  and  many  kind  greetings  cheered  us  on  our  way,  and 
our  important  and  most  responsible  journey  was  committed 
to  God  in  solemn  and  believing  prayer,  for  the  wisdom  and 
blessing  we  should  so  nmch  require. 

Among  the  many  kind  friends  who  came  a  long  distance 
to  meet  us  were  our  dear  old  friends,  the  Rivoltas,  formerly  of 
Blackheath,  and  Rev.  Mr.  Gregson,  formerly  of  India,  and  his 
daughter,  dear  Miss  Fanny  Gregson,  of  Ceylon,  whose  little 
journal  of  brave  and  independent  mission  work  has  been 
coming  to  us  for  a  good  while,  with  bright  words  of  testimony 
and  experience.    We  hope  to  meet  her  later  in  Ceylon.     Mr. 
Gregson  has  some  very  strong  convictions  on  the  subject  of 
Holy  Ghost  mission  work,   derived  from  his  experience  in 
India,  and  is  one  of  the  few  men  who  fully  realize  that  the 
evangelization  of  the  world  must  pass  out  of  the  hands  of 
man  into  the  hands  of  thelivingGod  if  this  generation  iseven 
to  hear  the  gospel.    We  are  glad  to  learn  that  the  Keswick 
and  other  great  spiritual  Conferences  are  becoming  more  m- 
tensely  aggressive  and  missionary. 

One  of  our  most  valuable  mornings  was  the  one  spent 
with  good  Hudson  Taylor,  who  so  courteously  gave  us  that 


•»IJI«ILMIBIU«IIWI»llllHi»"«l''"l''"'l  liWTI 


■)S. 


DAY'S  IN  ENGLAND. 


21 


,  and,  as- 
ost  excel- 
students. 
in  Akola, 
"^o  others 
I  work, 
large  and 
way,  and 
ommitted 
sdom.  and 

g  distance 
)rmerly  of 
ia,  and  his 
hose  httle 
has  been 
testimony 
rlon.     Mr. 
subject  of 
terience  in 
,e  that  the 
s  hands  of 
ion  is  even 
e  Keswick 
;  more  in- 
one  spent 
ve  us  that 


precious  thing  whose  value  we  ho  fully  appreciate — his  time 
— without  stint.  We  need  not  say  how  much  we  were  helped 
and  how  fully  this  honored  leader  of  the  most  successful  mis- 
sionary work  of  our  time  was  both  able  and  willing  to  meet 
the  many  practical  questions  we  are  called  to  face,  with  his 
modest  counsel  and  long  experience. 

There  is  no  country  in  the  world  where  missionary  work 
Jias  to  meet  more  difficulties  and  to  be  can'ied  on  with  more 
humble,  holy  wisdom  than  China.  The  mistakes  of  one  mis- 
i^ionary  not  only  hurt  his  own  work,  but  may  cripple  a  hun- 
dred other  missionaries  by  the  reflex  action.  A  riot  incited 
in  one  city  by  the  act  of  a  missionary  has  been  known  to  lead 
to  the  destruction  of  life  and  property  hundreds  of  miles  away. 
There  are  things  which  cannot  be  done  in  China  that  may  be 
done  anywhere  else.  We  need  to  pray  much  for  all  the 
workers  in  that  land  that  they  may  ever  have  the  very  miud 
of  Christ.  We  have  always  had  the  hearty  sympathy  and 
co-operation  of  the  authorities  and  missionaries  of  the  China 
Inland  Mission,  and  we  were  mvich  cheered  by  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Taylor's  kindness. 

One  of  our  chief  objects  in  staying  a  few  days  in  England 
was  to  meet  the  outgoing  Swedish  missionaries.  Phis  also 
we  were  permitted  to  do,  much  better  than  if  we  had  gone  to 
Sweden.  We  found,  as  we  expected,  that  they  had  been  in 
England  for  some  time.  Three  of  them  came  to  London  to 
meet  us,  and  we  went  down  to  Southampton  to  meet  the  rest, 
and  spent  Thursday  afternoon  and  evening  with  them.  It 
was  a  meeting  of  great  importance,  enabling  us  to  get  per- 


i<B?*t*'fegt-.-i"»:-,^.'?r-i5?' ' 


ipUJ" 


22  LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MLSSIONARY  LANDS. 

sonally  and  quite  well  acquainted  with  each  of  the  party,  and 
judge,  as  we  never  could  have  done  otherwise,  of  the  wisest 
course  to  advise  in  connection  with  this  important  move- 
ment. 

We  have  been  very  much  touched  to  find  the  wider  and 
deeper  interest  in  our  Alliance  work  which  expresses  itself 
from  many  quartere.  We  could  spend  a  month  very  profita- 
bly in  England,  Scotland,  and  Ireland  in  meeting  the  calls 
that  so  kindly  come.  There  is  a  blessed  fellowship  of  prayer, 
love,  and  mutual  help  and  service.  We  are  sorry  we  cannot 
stay  now,  but  will  return,  if  the  Lord  will. 

We  left  London  Friday  afternoon,  after  a  few  busy, 
blessed  days,  by  a  limited  express  train,  with  a  view,  D.V., 
to  catch  the  Mediterranean  steamer  at  Brindisi.    It  was  a  real 
pain  to  pass  dear  friends  who  had  written  us  from  Geneva, 
Bale,  and  Rome,  to  tarry  with  them  by  the  way.    It  was  very 
hard  to  give  up  the  proffered  pleasure  and  blessing  of  meet- 
ing that  great  and  good  man  of  God,  Stockmeyer,  at  Bale, 
but  we  could  not  do  so  without  missing  a  week  on  the  Medi- 
terranean, and  having  to  leave  out  a  few  brief  days,  if  the 
Lord  will,  at  dear  Jerusalem. 

Our  last  hours  in  London  were  by  no  means  idle.  Some 
gddd  friends  came  in  to  meet  us  in  English  fashion  at  break- 
fast and  morning  prayers,  .and  a  party  of  missionary  candi- 
dates from  Scotland  were  waiting  later,  whom  we  were  glad 
to  meet.  Then  an  hour  or  two  with  our  stenographer-a 
great  lot  of  letters  of  importance  •,  an  hour  or  two  in  the  city 
with  our  agents  and  business  correspondents,  and  we  were 
ready  to  go  to  our  special  train. 


)..u„>mauuJiiJ^4i.||i.  Hn  1 1 .  ■ 


irty,  and 
he  wisest 
it  move- 

nder  and 
3ses  itself 
y  profita- 
the  calls 
5f  prayer, 
ire  cannot 

'ew  busy, 
ew,  D.F., 
was  a  real 
I  Geneva, 
t  was  very 
;  of  meet- 
ir,  at  Bale, 
,  the  Medi- 
ays,  if  the 

lie.  Some 
I  at  break- 
lary  candi- 
were  glad 
grapher — a 
in  the  city 
id  we  were 


DAY'S  IN  ENGI..\Xn. 


23 


We  cannot  sufficiently  praise  God  for  the  wonderful  help 
given  us  in  our  very  short  visit  to  London,  in  enabling  us  to 
meet  every  one  of  the  engagements  we  had  counted  upon,  and 
accomplishing  so  much  that  was  upon  our  heart.  Even  at 
the  last  moment  He  graciously  interposed  to  prevent  our 
missing  our  train.  We  had  got  through  all  our  work  and 
left  in  good  time,  with  twenty  minutes  to  spare,  at  the  Cannon 
Street  Station;  but,  unfortunately,  our  kind  agents,  who  had 
taken  such  constant  trouble  with  us,  and  arranged  everything 
so  satisfactorily  about  our  tickets  and  passages,  had  sent  us 
to  the  wrong  station,  and  we  found,  at  twenty  minutes  to 
three,  that  we  had  yet  to  go  all  the  way  to  Channg  Cross,  in 
the  West  End,  more  than  two  miles  distant,  or  miss  our  train, 
and  with  it  our  steamer  at  Brindisi,  and  lose  a  whole  week. 

Our  kind  friends  who  were  with  us  thought  it  impossible, 
but  we  lifted  our  heart  to  God  in  a  quiet  prayer,  and  told  our 
driver  to  rush  to  Charing  Ci-oss,  promising  him  an  extra 
shilling  if  he  got  us  there  in  time.  We  felt  at  rest,  and  knew 
that  if  we  missed  our  train  God  would  have  something  better. 
To  make  it  more  evident  that  God  always  loves  to  use  the 
weak  and  foolish  things  of  this  world,  our  hoi-se  was  old  and 
stiflf,  and  even  the  prospect  of  an  extra  shilling  did  not  seem 
to  put  much  new  life  into  him.  But  God  was  equal  to  the  emer- 
gency, and  we  got  to  Charing  Cross  with  just  three  minutes 
to  register  our  baggage  for  Italy,  get  our  ticket  stamped, 
hasten  our  things  on  board,  say  a  hurried  but  loving  good-bye 
to  dear  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Brodie,  and  get  off  with  an  infinite  sense 
of  His  quiet  and  loving  care,  while  we  learned  with  sorrow^ 


24  LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OS  MLSSIOXARV  LANDS. 

that  a  dear  lady  was  left  behind  notwithstanding  the  impor- 
tunities an.l  entreaties  of  her  friend,  who  only  got  the  answer : 
*'  We  are  going  all  the  way  to  Sidney,  Australia,  and  we  can- 
not stop  for  anyone." 

English  officials  in  such  an  emergency  are  invaluable. 
There  is  a  man  with  brass  buttons  for  almost  every  conceiv- 
able thing  you  want,  and  a  sixpence  will  accomplish  wonders. 
Upon  the  whole,  the  railway  service  of  England  and  Lon- 
don is  most  excellent  and  convenient.     Constant  express 
trains  run  on  all  the  leading  railways,  and,  if  you  know  the 
city,  you  can  go  almost  anywhere  in  a  very  short  time.     Om- 
nibuses go  everywhere,  and  for  a  penny  you  can  ride  a  long 
distance.     There  is  no  better  way  to  enjoy  the  streets  of  Lon- 
don than  from  the  top  of  an  omnibus.      But  the  hansom  is  a 
convenience  and  luxury  too  little  known  in  America.    For  a 
shilling  you  can  go  anywhere  within  reasonable  distance  at 
a  very  quick  pace,  for  they  all  drive  fast,  and  their  simple 
form  enables  them  to  thread  streets  and  crowded  passages 
where  a  carriage  could  not  go.     Then,  you  can  find  one  al- 
most anywhere.    We  saw  the  number  15,000  on  one,  and 
there  are  more  even  than  that  number  in  London.     For  a  few 
shUUngs  one  can  accomplish  more  business  a  a  day  in  London 
than  you  could  do  in  New  York  in  two. 

As  if  to  enable  us  to  see  much  in  a  little,  we  had  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  a  real  London  fog  the  day  we  left. 
There  was  much  of  what  we  would  call  fog  every  day  ;  but 
when  we  asked  our  friend  if  that  was  a  London  fog,  he 
smiledatourinexperience,andsaid,"Whyno,thisissM>w/itne." 


s. 


D.I )  .V  /A'  ENGLAND. 


25 


e  impor- 
answer : 
I  we  can- 

valuable. 

conceiv- 
wonders. 
and  Lon- 
b  express 
know  the 
ne.    Om- 
ie  a  long 
bs  of  Lon- 
nsom  is  a 
!a.    For  a 
istance  at 
3ir  simple 

passages 

nd  one  al- 

i  one,  and 

For  a  few 

in  London 

<?e  had  the 
y  we  left. 
'  day  ;  but 
)n  fog,  he 
sunshine." 


But  that  morning,  as  we  got  down  into  tlie  heart  of  the  city, 
there  was  something  we  could  feel  as  well  as  see.  The  air 
was  literally  thick,  the  smell  of  escaping  coal  gas  was  every- 
where, the  lamps,  gas  jets,  and  electric  lights  were  all  lighted 
both  inside  and  out ;  and  as  we  looked  up  into  the  sky,  a 
strange  yellow  glare,  like  mud,  seem  to  hang  overhead,  giving 
everything  such  a  lurid  look.  "  This  is  a  London  fog,"  said 
our  friend  ;  "but  we  often  have  it  much  worse  than  this." 
Keally  it  was  not  a  fog  at  all,  we  believe,  for  it  was  bright 
ar-d  clear  all  around  London  ;  but  the  smoke  of  the  soft  coal, 
and  the  dust  of  the  streets,  was  held  somehow  in  suspension 
by  a  peculiar  condition  of  the  atmosphere,  and  forced  back 
into  people's  eyes  and  throats. 

Notwithstanding  all  this,  we  must  say  the  climate  of 
:Engic;nd,  even  in  winter,  is  delightful.  Even  in  southern  France 
we  passed  through  six  inches  of  snow,  and  London  was  almost 
as  warm  as  early  spring  all  the  time  we  were  tiiere.  It  is  a 
wonderful  little  isle,  and  has  much  good  within  its  rock-bound 
.shores,  although  one  feels  the  lack  of  that  freedom  and  spring 
jou  are  conscious  of  in  our  American  atmosphere. 

Most  English  audiences  are  a  little  heavier  and  less  respon  • 
isive  than  ours.  And  yet  we  must  say  we  have  rarely  felt  deeper, 
fuller  tides  of  power  and  blessing  than  in  the  meetings  we  were 
j)ermitted  to  take  part  in  Monday,  Tuesday,  and  Wednesday 
in  London.  At  the  last  moment  we  had  a  very  pleasant  mis 
sionary  surprise  in  being  permitted  to  meet,  just  on  the  eve 
of  their  departure  for  the  field,  the  two  dear  missionaries  of  the 
new  Soudan  mission,  Mr.  White  and  his  asso.'-te,  who,  for 


a6  LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MLSSIONARY  LANPS. 

two  yeai-fl,  have  been  trying  to  penetrate?  the  Soudan,  and 
reach  Lake  Tchad,  from  Tripoli  or  Morocco,  on  thi^  coast, 
by  the  caravan  route  that  passes  through  the  desert  to  l^vKe 
Tchad  and  the  Sokoto  and  Bornu  country,     They  have  now 
abandoned  that  el  ort,  and  are  on  their  way  to  the  Niger,  with 
a  view  to  attempt  to  reach  the  Soudan  by  the  very  route 
that  our  dear  young  friends,  Mr.  Gowans,  Mr.  Robb,  and 
others  desire  to  attempt.     We  had  a  Uttle  convereation  witli 
them  amid  the  hurry  of  departure,  xnd  they  have  promised 
to  write  us  fully.    They  seem  to  be  young  Englishmen  of  the 
right  sort  of  stuff  for  pioneers.     They  are  attempting  the 
most  hazM-douB  journey  of  modern  missions. 

We  had  an  hour's  conversation  with  the  Hon.  Secretary 
of  the  Church  Missionary  Society  on  this  very  subject.     After 
two  years  or  more  of  the  most  indefatigable  and  wise  effort, 
on  the  part  of  Mr.  Wi'nv)t  Brooke  and  several  others,  to  es- 
tablish a  base  of  operations  at  Lakoja,  at  the  mouth  of  the 
Binnue,  the  result  so  far  is  that  Mr.  Brooke  has  sacrificed  hi& 
life,  his  English  associates  have  either  died  or  returned  ;  and 
there  is  not  a  single  white  man  at  Lakoja,  and  but  few  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Niger  or  anywhere  on  it.    They  are  reinforcing 
at  present  their  Niger  force,  and  a  party  of  Englishmen  is 
going  out  soon,  but  they  do  not  advise,  at  present,  any  at- 
tempt to  go  further  into  the  interior,  nor  have  we  been  able, 
as  yet,  to  advise  our  dear  young  brethren  in  America  to  as- 
cend the  iJinnue  at  present,  but  rather  to  wait  developments 
in  connection  with  the  movement  already  on  foot  there. 

We  are  the  more  confirmed  in  this  view  since  meeting 


\ 


ian,  and 
lo  coast, 
to  Tiiike 
ave  now 
^er,  with 
ry  route 
M),  and 
lion  with 
promiped 
en  of  the 
sting  the 

Secretary 
t.     After 
se  effort, 
srs,  to  es- 
ith  of  the 
rificed  his 
rned ;  and 
:ew  at  the 
?inforcing 
ishmen  is 
t,  any  at- 
jeen  able, 
rica  to  as- 
elopments 
here. 
e  meeting 


DAY'S  /.V  ENGLAND. 


27 


* 
r 


this  party,  who  are  on  their  way  to  this  very  spot,  and  from 
whom  we  liope  to  hear  in  tlie  spring.  We  beUeve  that  if  any 
persons  can  find  such  an  enterprise  practicable  they  can. 
They  are  men  of  true  and  bold  faith,  and  havti  already  had  a 
valuable  experience  with  the  people  of  North  Africa,  besides 
having  the  language.  We  shall  be  glad  to  follow  on  as  God 
clearly  otiens  the  way,  but  we  do  not  feel  that  we  are  called 
upon  to  inaugurate  what  really  must  prove  a  great  and  haz- 
ardous enterprise  of  missionary  exploration.  But  this  move- 
ment on  the  part  of  these  bold  pioneers  deserves  our  warmest 
sympathy,  and  we  shall  be  glad  to  know,  ere  very  long,  that 
the  way  is  open  for  our  direct  co-operation. 


III. 


ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


OUR  route  lay  from  Loudon  to  Dover,  and  Dover  to  Calais. 
We  found,  for  once,  the  English  Channel  as  still  as  a  mill- 
pond,  and  were  able  to  walk  the  deck  and  watch  for  the 
headlights  of  France.  The  flash  light  at  Calais  is  a  maguift- 
cent  revolving  light,  sending  out  great  ribbons  of  electric 
brilliancy  that  seem  as  if  they  might  reach  a  hundred  miles. 
We  found  ourselves  at  Calais  in  something  more  nearly 
resembling  an  American  Pullman  train  than  anything  we 
have  yet  seen  abroad.  It  has  a  dining  car  and  a  sleeper,  with 
very  considerable  comfort.  The  train  ran  through,  with- 
out change,  in  forty-eight  hours  to  Brindisi,  and  is  a  great 
convenience.  »■ 

Twenty-four  hours  from  London  brought  us  to  Modane, 
at  the  entrance  to  the  Mont  Cenis  tunnel.  It  is  now  just 
twenty-three  years  since  we  crossed  these  Alps  the  first  time, 
and  stopped  also  at  Modane,  on  oui  way  from  Turin.  But  then 
it  took  us  nearly  an  entire  day.  To-day  we  passed  through 
the  tunnel  in  twenty-five  minutes  and  reached  Turin  within 
four  hours.  At  that  time  we  crossed  the  mountains  by  the 
little  zizzag  railway  that  ran  over  the  tops  of  the  passes. 
We  could  still  see  the  old  track  and  telegraph  poles  to-day, 
but  we  suppose  it  is  never  used  except,  perhaps,  for  mountain 


aS 


;o  Calais. 
as  a  mill- 
h  for  the 
maguifi- 
;  electric 
ed  miles, 
re  nearly 
;hing  we 
per,  with 
h,  with- 
is  a  great 

Modane, 
now  just 
irst  time, 
But  then 
.  through 
in  within 
19  by  the 
le  passes. 
Bs  to-day, 
mountain 


ACROSS  TIIE  CONTINENT. 


29 


views,  which  are  veiy  fine.  The  tunnel  under  Mont  Cenis 
had  just  been  completed  that  year,  1870,  but  was  not  opened  ; 
but  we  saw  the  works  on  the  French  side,  and  were  told  how 
wonderfully  the  engineers  of  both  countries  had  succeeded 


PARIS. 

in  excavating  and  tunneling  up  an  incline  from  each  side,  so 
as  to  let  the  water  run  oflF,  and  yet  meet  in  the  centre  in 
perfect  line.  The  tunnel  is  a  great  success,  and  enables  the 
express  train  to  go  through  from  Pa  is  to  Turin  in  nineteen 
hours,  and  from  London  to  Brindisi  in  forty-eight  hours, 
thus  bringing  Bombay  within  seventeen  days  of  London, 
instead  of  two  months,  as  it  used  to  be  before  the  days  of  the 


30  LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

Tunnel  and  the  Suez  Canal.  The  tunnel  is  nine  miles  long, 
and  we  passed  through  it  without  the  slightest  discomfort,— 
indeed,  taking  our  lunch  all  the  way  through. 

We  found   snow  all  through  France;  and,  indeed,  it 


ALPINE  SCENE. 


would  seem  to  a  passing  traveler,  to  be  a  thousand  miles 
north  of  England,  so  different  was  the  climate.  The  favored 
British  Isles  lie  in  the  warm  current  of  the  Gulf  Stream,  and 
have,  indeed,  an  exceptionally  mild   climate.    Snow  con- 


WD»9^pe,!!Si!f»PV?VM«<« 


RBWffifc'«W»^lW.r  «t""- 


\IDS. 


ACROSS  THE  CONTINENT. 


31 


miles  long, 
(comfort, — 

indeed,  it 


usand  miles 

The  favored 

Stream,  and 

Snow  con- 


tinued until  we  reached  Bologna.  Indeed,  this  has  been  a 
bitterly  cold  winter  in  Europe,  and  there  must  be  great 
suffering. 

At  Ancona  it  began  to  grow  spring-like,  and  after  Fog- 
gia,  for  the  last  120  miles,  we  were  in  the  summer  land  of 

Southern  Italy.  The 
route  lay  along  the 
shores  of  the  Adri- 
atic, and  its  blue 
and  placid  waters 
were  covered  with 
white  sails.  We 
could  count  more 
than  twenty  at  one 
time  from  our  car 
window.  The  towns 
and  villages  are 
very  old  and  pic- 
turesque. These 
plains  and  valleys 
have  heard  the 
march  of  eighty 
generations.  The 
houses  are  mostly  pure  white,  some  being  highly  tinted,  but 
all  artistic.  The  Italian  cannot  make  a  cabin  or  railway 
station  without  putting  beauty  and  dignity  into  the  lines. 
Some  towns,  like  Ostuni,  for  example,  stand  on  the  very 
summit  of  a  bold  and  precipitous  hill,  and  with  their  white 


ITALIAN  LAZZARONI. 


32 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


towers  and  domes  are  very  striking.  The  Italian  people  are 
always  most  interesting.  Still  the  soldier  is  to  be  seen  on  guard 
at  nearly  every  station,  and  the  lazzaroni,  with  their  countless 
devices  for  getting  a  few  centesimi.  The  women  do  not  seem  so 
picturesque  in  their  head-dresses  as  they  used  to  be ;  we  sup- 
pose Italy  is  getting  modernized,  like  every  thing  else.  The 
shepherds  were  in  the  fields,  all  over  Southern  Italy,  with 
their  sheepskin  coats  and  ancient  cloaks,  and  their  great 
flocks.  We  saw  one  little  boy,  of  about  ten,  herding  a  flock 
of  more  than  a  hundred  lambs,  and  we  thought  of  something 
even  the  children  can  do  for  Christ.  If  they  cannot  work 
like  older  people,  they  can  be  a  blessing  to  one  another. 
The  gardens,  orchards,  and  vineyards  were  luxuriant. 
Thousands  of  acres  were  covered  with  olive  trees,  and  their 
leaves  were,  of  coui-se,  green.  There  were  orange  trees  and 
some  fine  groves  at  Brindisi,  but  they  vre  mostly  found  ia 
Sicily,  a  little  further  south. 


NDS. 


■  -*i^r 


1  people  are 
eu  on  guard 
sir  countless 
not  seem  so 
3e ;  we  sup- 
else.     The 
Italy,  with 
their  great 
iing  a  flock 
I  something 
annot  work 
ae  another, 
luxuriant. 
s,  and  their 
;e  trees  and 
tly  found  ia 


IV. 
ON  THE  BLUE   MEDITERRANEAN. 

WE  reached  Brindisi  in  good  time  for  our  steamer, 
which  had  come  round  from  London,  by  way  of 
Gibraltar  and  Malta,  and  been  over  ten  days  on  her 
route  already.  We  had  to  wait  for  the  late  mail  from  Lon- 
don, and  stayed  up  to  get  some  important  letters  which  we 
expected.  We  had  dictated  a  very  large  mail  to  our  stenog- 
rapher ia  London,  but,  like  most  Enghshmen,  we  could  not 
hurry  him,  so  we  had  to  come  away  without  our  letters,  and 
have  tb<jm  sent  on  after  us,  for  us  to  sign  and  dispatch  on 
the  way. 

That  evening  at  Brindisi  was  worth  remembering.  It 
let  us  see  a  little  both  of  Italian  and  English  wickedness  in  a 
seaport  town.  Boys  not  ten  years  old  were  running  about 
as  agents  for  the  most  infamous  places,  and  women  and 
children,  dancing  on  the  streets  to  their  rude  music,  by 
scores.  Brindisi  has  a  fine  harbor  and  is  the  great  rendezvous 
for  several  great  lines  of  steamers  to  the  East.  The  Austrian 
Lloyd's,  of  Trieste,  have  several  lines  to  Alexandria,  Con- 
stantinople, and  other  points,  and  the  P.  &  0.  Company  have 
two  lines  calling  here.  It  is  on  the  great  high-road  to  the 
East,  and,  indeed,  for  ages  it  has  been  one  of  the  landmarks 
of  the  Mediterranean.    We  are  on  historic  ground,  but  we 


T^ff" 


34 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


m.  i 


would  rather  tread  in  one  of  Paul's  footsteps  than  walk  in 
triumph  with  all  the  Caesars. 

We  walked  the  deck  for  hours,  and  saw  the  same  stars 
we  had  watched  for  years  go  down  over  the  distant  West, 
where  our  heart  was  lingering  in  love  and  prayer.  Again 
the  Master  walked  upon  the  waters,  and  the  blue  Mediter- 
ranean was  literally  as  still  as  glass.  It  was  very  interesting 
in  the  warm  sunlight  and  crisp  air  of  the  next  morning  to 
see  the  coast  of  Italy  disappear,  and  sail  by  Corfu  and  the 
Turkish  Islands  with  their  snow-crowned  heights  beyond, 
that  seem  over  0,000  feet  high.  We  were  on  "the  Great 
Sea  "  of  ancient  ages  and  Bible  times  ;  but  it  is  a  little  sea 
to-day  beside  the  great  Atlantic  and  Pacific  Oceans.  And 
yet  it  ha?  been  the  Mediterranecfn,  or  middle  sea,  in  the 
sense  that  it  has  been  the  centre  of  the  world's  history  for 
more  than  three  thousand  years. 

Our  crew  is  an  interesting  study.  Most  of  them  are 
Hindus  from  Bombay.  So  that  we  are  already  in  the  heart 
of  Asia.  They  are  as  dark  as  negroes,  but  have  Hindu 
features.  But  how  they  ever  live  in  this  northern  climate 
with  their  scant  cotton  clothing  we  cannot  comprehend. 
They  are  nearly  all  barefooted,  and  none  of  them  have  more 
than  a  thin  cotton  blouse  and  linen  pants.  And  yet  last 
night  these  barefooted  fellows  ran  up  and  down  the  gang- 
plank carrying  the  mail  bags  up  for  more  than  two  hours, 
chattering  and  screaming  like  monkeys,  playing  all  kinds  of 
tricks  on  each  other,  racing  down  after  each  o  her  like  chil- 
dren let  loose,  and  keeping  warm  by  good  nature  and  fun. 


(I 


INDS. 

ban  walk  in 


same  stars 
stant  West, 
yer.  Again 
lue  Mediter- 
r  interesting 

morning  to 
rfu  and  the 
;ht8  beyond, 

"the  Great 
is  a  httle  sea 
ceans.    And 

sea,  in  the 
i  history  for 

)f  them  are 
in  the  heart 
have  Hindu 
[lern  climate 
comprehend, 
a  have  more 
aid  yet  last 
n  the  gang- 
a  two  hours, 
J  all  kinds  of 
ler  like  chil- 
ire  and  fun. 


:r.-3l 


< 
I- 


< 


If 


^^v 


W 


if^ 


\ 


ON  THE  BLUE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


35 


a 


Here  they  are  to-day,  by  the  dozen,  walking  about  the  deck 
barefooted  and  half  naked,  and  we  are  glad  to  have  our  fur 
overcoat  buttoned  up  to  the  chin  in  the  sharp  wind  of  the 
sea.  Well,  surely  there  is  everything  in  getting  used  to 
things. 

But  our  cabin  passengers  are  a  greater  study.  Some  of 
them  are  business  men  going  to  India  ;  and  a  number  are  en 
route  to  Syd-  -.  „     -  ney  and  Mel- 

good  many 
going  out  to 
or  seek  their 
East;  two  are, 
see  merchants 
and  quite  a 
missionaries 
East.  Two  of 
copal  clergy- 
number  are 
missionaries. 


,-^cyy 


mm 


bourne; 
are  young  men 
fill  t;itTiation8 
fortunes  in  the 
probably,  Par- 
from  Bombay 
number  are 
going  to  the 
these  are  E  pis- 
men,  and  a 
young  lady  liqhthouse,  mediterranean  sea. 

On  Sabbath  evening  we  had  service  on  board,  and  we 
were  so  glad,  after  seeing  so  much  ungodliness  on  shipboard, 
to  have  an  opportunity  to  worship  God.  The  service  was  led 
by  one  of  the  Episcopal  missionaries.  He  was  evidently  a 
graduate  of  the  University,  and  we  doubt  not  an  earnest 
young  minister  of  a  little  more  than  the  average  type,  with  a 
strong  ecclesiastical  tint.  "W  e  enjoyed  the  hymns  and  pray- 
ers very  heartily,  but  when  it  came  to  the  sermon  we  had  a 
very  nice  Httle  essay  on  "  What  is  the  failure  of  life  ? "  with 


36 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


not  even  tlie  formality  of  a  text,  and  then  a  little  of  the 
gospel,  in  its  weakest  form,  followed  by  the  following  ^i-ac- 
tical  applications  which  we  give  almost  verbatim  :  "Are  we 
then  to  give  up  the  pleasm-es  of  hfe  as  Christians  ?  Why 
should  we  ?  Are  we  not  commanded  to  rejoice  ?  It  was  Mr. 
Spui-geon  that  said  he  could  smoke  a  cigar  to  the  glory  of 
God.  And  why  cannot  we  play  cricket,  lawn  tennis,  etc., 
and  enjoy  the  pleasures  of  life  to  the  glory  of  God  ? " 

We  looked  around  with  interest  to  see  the  faces  of  the 
listeneiT,,  and  some  of  them  were  lighted  up  with  radiant  ap- 
proval.    Well,  there  are  worse  things  than  luwn  tennis  and 
cricket,  but  the  idea  of  sending  out  missionaries  to  preach 
and  practice  such  things  was  sad  enough.     One  would  think 
that  if  a  person  wishes  to  live  that  kind  of  a  life,  the  right 
thing  would  be  to  stay  at  home  and  enjoy  life  like  the  world. 
But  can  we  wonder  if  the  type  of  missionary  life  abroad  is 
no  higher  than  the  Christian  life  at  home  ?    A  pleasure-lov- 
ing church  will  develop  a  self-indulgent  ministry,  and  the 
foreign  fruit- will  be  like  the  parent  tree.     We  have  not  come 
abroad  to  criticise  the  workers  in  the  field.     We  are  much 
more  grieved  with  the  spirit  of  the  church  at  home.     But  we 
may  have  to  see  and  state  facts  as  we  tind  them,  and  shall  do 
so  kindly  and  fairly. 

At  late  supper  we  saw  some  of  the  fruit  of  the  sermon 
we  had  been  hearing.  One  of  the  young  ladies  was  helping 
herself  to  wine,  in  the  midst  of  a  little  party  that  were  evi- 
dently  disposed  to  have  the  rejoicing  type  of  Christianity 
that  had  been  recommended,  and  she  remarked  amid  a  gen- 


\ 


VDS. 

,tle  of  the 
wing  ^rac- 
:  "  AiH  we 
m  ?  Why 
It  was  Mr. 
le  glory  of 
ennis,  etc., 

aces  of  the 
radiant  ap- 
tennis  and 
!s  to  preach 
rould  think 
e,  the  right 
)  the  world, 
e  abroad  is 
ileasure-lov- 
ry,  and  the 
v^e  not  come 
''e  are  much 
le.  But  we 
and  shall  do 

the  sermon 
was  helping 
at  were  evi- 
Christianity 
amid  a  gen- 


OJV  THE  BLUE  MEDITERRANEAN. 


77 


eral  laugh:  "This  is  not  the  way  the  China  Inland  would 
think  about  it  I"'  Well,  we  hope  that  the  China  Inland 
missionaries  are  not  ashamed  of  the  reproach,  and  we  are 
sure  ours  are  not. 

But  we  are  glad  to  find  that  we  have  a  real  party  of  China 
Inland  missionaries  on  board,  and  dear,  good  girls  they  are. 
There  are  eight  of  them,  all  ladies,  on  their  way  to  their  dis- 
tant field,  and  we  are  quite  at  home  with  them  already.    They 
are  just  like  some  of  our  own  girls,  and  are  glad  to  meet  us, 
as  they  know  a  good  deal  of  our  work.     They  are  watching 
for  opportunities  of  service  on  board,  and  are  wise  and  earnest 
soul  winners.     We  had  the  pleasure  of  spending  an  hour,  the 
last  day  we  were  on  board,  in  a  bless'ed  little  Bible-reading 
with  them  in  the  saloon  from  11  to  12,  and  the  Master  came 
near  to  all  our  hearts  and  cheered  us  on  our  way.    We  formed 
many  common  ties,  and  trust  they,  as  well  as  we,  received  a 
blessing.     On  the  evening  of  our  arrival  at  Port  Said,  they 
gave  a  little  account  of  their  work  in  a  public  meeting  on 
board,  and  nmch  good  was  done  in  a  quiet  way. 

We  have  been  reading  the  story  of  Paul's  voyage  to  Rome 
over  this  winter  sea.  We  are  crossing  his  very  pathway,  but 
how  different  to-day  !  And  yet  that  lone  man,  with  neither 
Society,  steamboat  nor  modern  civilization  behind  him,  ac- 
complished more  in  a  life-time  for  the  evangelization  of  the 
world  than  any  whole  generation  since.  The  conditions  of 
human  life  are  different  to-day,  and  God  would  have  us  adapt 
oui-selves  to  them  in  sending  his  Gospel  to  the  world.  Oh, 
that  we  might  ever  catch  His  thought  and  meet  His  expecta- 
tion for  our  generation ! 


iitiwtiir'  'AilK 


^'»Sr«->ii*ii4^»'.'fi»*ii'. 


38 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OiV  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


The  second  night  we  sailed  past  the  Grecian  Isles  in 
glorious  moonlight,  and  the  following  day  we  were  nearly  all 
day  long  within  two  or  three  miles  of  the  coast  of  Crete. 
Candia  is  its  modern  name,  but  to  us  it  has  a  sweetci  nterest 
as  the  parish  of  Titus,  the  friend  of  St.  Paul,  and  one  of  the 
early  scenes  of  Apostolic  Christianity.  Its  long  western 
shore  is  bold  and  barren  looking,  and  but  few  human  beings 
seem  to  live  on  this  rock-bound  coast ;  but,  we  doubt  not,  be- 
hind these  naked  hills  is  many  a  sweet  valley,  and  many  a 
throbbing  human  heart.  The  Cretianb  did  not  have  a  very 
high  reputation  when  Paul  wrote  his  letter  to  Titus,  and  they 
have  not  improved  it  in  modern  times.  But  it  is  one  of  the 
places  we  have  claimed  for  Him  who  made  all  these  scenes 
for  Himself,  and  shall  yet  cover  them  with  his  grace  and 

glory. 

The  blue  Mediterranean  is,  indeed,  as  blue  as  it  can  be 
painted  or  described.  We  have  been  wondering  what  could 
possibly  give  these  watei-s  their  exquisite  hue.  But  we  have 
found  the  cause  :  it  is  as  simple  as  it  is  beautiful,  and  it  is 
full  of  instruction.  It  all  comes  from  the  clear  blue  sky 
above.  It  is  just  the  reflection  of  the  heavens  above  from  the 
calm  bosom  of  the  sea  below  ;  and  as  these  skies  are  clearer 
and  bluer  than  in  our  murky  West,  so  these  waters,  likewise, 
give  back  the  glory  they  receive. 

Surely,  we  need  not  interpret  the  figure.  Would  we  have 
in  our  lives  the  heavenly  glory  we  must  also  receive  it  from 
above.  Our  holiness  is  just  the  reflection  of  His  Face.  The 
Mediterranean  is  nearer  the  central  zone  and  under  the  more 


II 


NDS. 

ian  Isles  in 
re  nearly  all 
at  of  Crete. 
}tei  interest 
one  of  the 
ng  western 
man  beings 
mbt  not,  be- 
and  many  a 
have  a  very 
lis,  and  they 
I  one  of  the 
these  scenes 
8  grace  and 

18  it  can  be 
what  could 
Jut  we  have 
ul,  and  it  is 
ar  blue  sky 
ove  from  the 
J  are  clearer 
3rs,  likewise, 

ould  we  have 
eive  it  from 
i  Face.  The 
ier  the  more 


ON  THE  BLUE  MEDITERRANEAN. 

direct  reflection  of  the  8un  and  sky,  and  so  it  receives  the 
light  of  a  brighter  sky.  And  so  the  nearer  we  come  to  the 
very  centre  of  His  Presence,  the  more  richly  will  we  give 
back  the  glory  of  His  life  and  light 

May  God  keep  us  "beholding,  as  in  a  glass,  the  gloiy  of 
the  Lord,  to  be  changed  into  the  same  image  from  glory  to 
glory,  even  as  by  the  Spirit  of  the  Lord 


V. 


FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  EGYPT. 


THERE  are  moments  which  we  never  forget.  Such  a 
moment  was  that  in  which  we  caught  the  first  glance 
of  the  lighthouse  at  the  mouth  of  the  Nile.  It  seemecl 
to  bridge  over  forty  centuries,  and  to  bring  us  into  touch 
with  the  days  of  Abraham,  Joseph,  and  the  exodus  of  ancient 
Israel.  Right  over  yonder  we  could  almost  see  the  young 
slave  lad  going  down  to  the  house  of  Potiphar,  the  little  baby 
floating  among  the  reeds  of  the  Nile,  and  the  holy  Babe  and 
mother  passing  down  from  Bethlehem  to  Egypt,  very  much 
as  we  have  seen  the  peasants  to-day,  traveling  along  on  their 
little  donkeys  or  on  the  backs  of  their  camels.  There  are 
things  that  speak  to  the  heart  beyond  the  power  of  words. 
There  are  realizations  of  things  that  no  amount  of  reading  can 
ever  give,  and  these  two  short  days  in  Egypt  have  photo- 
graphed upon  our  hoart  and  soul  the  strange  life  of  this 
unchangeable  East,  as  first  impressions  are  indelibly  photo- 
graphed, and  as  no  words  of  ours,  we  fear,  can  reproduce 
them  to  others. 

The  first  Ught  was  Damietta,  and,  about  two  hours  later, 
the  flash  light  of  Port  Said  burst  upon  us,  and  an  hour  or 
two  afterward,  we  steamed  in  between  the  great  bi'eastworks 
that  run  two  miles  out  into  the  Mediterranean,  and  were 


40 


3t.  Such  a 
I  first  glance 
I.   It  seemed 

into  touch 
IS  of  ancient 
»  the  young 
le  little  baby 
ly  Babe  and 
,  very  much 
ong  on  their 

There  are 
3r  of  words, 
reading  can 
have  photo- 
life  of  this 
sUbly  photo- 
1  reproduce 

hours  later, 

an  hour  or 

breastworks 

a,  and  were 


42 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


anchored  in  the  midst  of  a  dozen  other  great  ocean  steam- 
ships, in  the  mouth  of  the  Suez  Canal. 

It  is  about  a  quarter  of  a  century  since  this  stupendous 
triumph  of  modern  engineering  skill  was  opened,  and  it  has 
revolutionized  the  trade  of  the  East.  It  cost  about  one  hun- 
dred million  dollars,  but  is  worth  it.  It  has  brought  India 
within  little  more  than  a  fortnight  of  England,  and  the  vol- 
ume of  trade  that  has  already  poured  through  may  be  esti- 
mated by  millions.  The  man,  to  whom  more  than  any  other 
its  success  was  due,  was  M.  De  Lesseps,  of  France,  who,  to- 
day, stands  before  a  Paris  ti'ibunal  with  a  sullied  reputation, 
and  charged,  along  with  others,  with  the  grossest  dishonesties 
in  connection  with  the  Panama  Canal  enterprise. 

He  was  backed  in  his  enterprise  chiefly  by  English  gold, 
and  the  British  government  has  made  this,  in  part  at  least, 
the  occasion  for  the  military  occupation  of  Egypt,  as  a  guar- 
antee for  the  payment  of  the  interest  on  the  enormous 
national  debt  which  has  been  increased  by  this  and  other 
great  public  works.  In  fact,  Egypt  is  almost  in  the  position 
of  a  British  colony.  This  was  made  very  plain  the  other  day, 
when  the  young  and  headstrong  Khedive  got  angry  with  his 
cabinet,  and  dismissed  them  summarily,  without  consulting 
the  English  minister.  He  was  requested  by  the  British 
government  to  reinstate  them  again  in  twenty-four  hours,  and  a 
contingent  of  British  troops,  within  a  few  hours,  had  landed 
at  Suez  to  follow  up  the  demand,  if  necessary,  by  prompt 
action.  The  only  concession  made  to  him  was  to  allow  him 
to  appoint  a  new  premier,  but  all  the  other  members  of  the 


'DS. 

an  steani- 

bupendous 
md  it  has 
b  one  hun- 
ght  India 
d  the  vol- 
ly  be  esti- 
any  other 
!,  who,  to- 
sputation, 
shonesties 

jlish  gold, 
b  at  least, 

15  a  guar- 
enormous 
and  other 
8  position 
other  day, 
y  with  his 
consulting 

16  British 
Durs,  and  a 
lad  landed 
)y  prompt 
allow  him 
ers  of  the 


FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  EGYPT. 


Egyptian  government,  we  believe,  wei-e  replaced.  In  fact, 
most  of  the  chief  officers  of  the  Egyptian  army  are  English, 
and  England  intends  to  hold  the  country  with  a  strong  hand. 
The  little  breeze  has  already  blown  past,  and  the  tone 
of  public  opinion  seems  to  be  with  England.  The  only 
Egyptians  we  have  talked  with  have  condemned  the  Khedive 
as  a  foolish  and  hot-headed  young  fellow,  who  needed  the 
sharp  lesson  he  received. 

We  found  on  reaching  Port  8aid,  that  we  should  have  to 
wait  two  days  for  our  steamer  to  Jaffa,  and  so  we  resolved 
to  take  a  quick  trip  up  the  canal  to  Ismalia  and  Cairo,  leave 
our  heavy  baggage  there  and  return  in  time  for  the  Saturday 
steamer.  This  has  given  us  an  opportunity  to  see  a  little  of 
Egypt  in  passing,  and  on  our  return  we  shall  have  a  few  days 
more  to  wait,  in  which  we  shall  hope  to  see  much  more  of 
this  wonderful  old  land.  Wonderful,  indeed,  it  is,  a  world 
as  different  from  ours,  as  if  it  were  another  planet ! 

Here  we  are  steaming  slowly  up  the  canal,  while  the 
half -naked  children  are  running  along  the  bank  keeping  up 
with  the  steamer,  caUing  out  for  "backshish,"  and  picking 
up.  with  eager  delight,  the  oranges  and  pennies  the  people 
throw  to  them  on  the  sand-banks.  The  blessed  children  are 
the  same  everywhere, — simple,  happy,  and  beautiful !  The 
faces  of  these  little  bronze  Egyptian  boys  and  girls  are  most 
interesting,  and  some  of  them  quite  handsome,  especially  the 
boys.  They  have  learned  the  art  of  smihng  to  perfection. 
When  they  want  to  sell  you  something,  or  get  some  "back- 
shish" from  you,  they  will  look  in  your  face  as  if  you  were  the 


44 


LARGER  OVTLOOKS  OX  MISSIOXARY  L^NDS. 


dearest  friend  they  had  on  earth.  Sometimes  you  will  stop 
and  look  hard  at  a  turbaned  fellow  who  is  smiling  as  if  he 
had  known  you  for  years,  and  you  will  stare  at  him  and 
wonder  where  you  have  met  him  before ;  but,  as  you  fail  to 
respond  with  something  more  substan*' xl,  he  will  pass  on, 

with  a  look  of  disappoint- 
ment, and  tiy  his  fasci- 
nating manners  on  some 
one  else. 

Yesterday  at  Ismalia, 
in  the  west  quarter,  wo 
saw  a  butcher  standi'  j 
beside  a  sheep  he  haa 
just  dressed  and  hungup 
in  the  shambles,  and  it 
was  a  perfect  study  to 
see  his  face,  as  he  stood 
rubbing  it  down  and  pat- 
ting it  all  over,  and  with 
eyes  lifted  up  to  heaven, 
was  calling  out  "Allah, 
Allah,"  and  telling  the 
crowd  what  wonderful  meat  it  was.  He  seemed  quite 
overcome  with  his  emotions,  and  we  could  hardly  tell 
whether  he  was  smiling  or  weeping,  so  deeply  moved 
was  he  about  the  quality  of  that  sheep.  His  fine  acting 
was  not  thrown  away,  for  the  old  women  were  gathering 
round,  and,  as  we  left,  he  was  beginning,  with  much  con- 


EQYPTIAN  BOY. 


\ 


v/ys. 

1  will  stop 
ig  as  if  he 
it  him  and 
you  fail  to 
ill  pass  on, 
disappoint- 
p-  his  fasci- 
;rs  on  some 


at  Ismalia, 
juarter,  wq 
ir  standi! 
Bp  he  hiia 
nd  hung  up 
bles,  and  it 
:t  study  to 
as  he  stood 
fu  and  pat- 
r,  and  with 
to  heaven, 
ut  "Allah, 
telling  the 
imed  quite 
hardly  tell 
)iy  moved 
fine  acting 
gathering 
much  con- 


SHIP   OF  THE  DESERT. 


FIRST  IMP/?  ESSIOJVS  OF  EGYPT. 


45 


descension,  to  cut  off  little  pieces,  and  let  them  have  some  of 
that  celestial  mutton  at  exorbitant  prices. 

Here  is  a  caravan  of  a  dozen  camels,  with  half  a  dozen 
families,  the  women  on  the  backs  of  the  camels,  the  men 
walking  in  stately  fashion  beside,  and  the  children  trotting 
along  behind.  There,  on  our  left,  is  a  company  of  Arabs 
and  camels,  starting  out  from  Kantarah  along  the  road  that 
leads  to  Syria.  Here  again  are  flocks  of  millions  of  birds, 
flamingoes,  ducks,  geese,  literally  covering  the  water.  Here 
are  stately  palms  as  high  as  our  forest  trees  ;  and,  on  every 
side,  are  great  iieaps  of  desert  sand,  and  away  to  the  right 
and  left  the  great  billowy  desert,  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 
We  never  saw  such  a  color  in  the  clouds.  It  seemed  a  sort 
of  reflection  from  the  desert  sand.  And  the  sunset  over 
these  western  sand  plains  has  a  iniddy  glow  and  a  lingering 
glory  we  have  not  seen  before 

It  took  our  steamer  nearly  twelve  hours  to  steam  slowly 
up  from  Port  Said  to  Ismalia.  There  we  disembariced  in  a 
steam  launch,  and  the  ''Masiiilia"  sailed  on  to  India  and 
Australia,  while  the  dear  missionaries  stood  waving  their 
handkerchiefs  from  the  deck  in  loving  farewell,  imtil  we 
should  meot  again,  if  the  Lord  will,  in  China. 

We  had  a  few  hours  at  Ismalia  before  the  train  left  for 
Cairo,  and  we  took  a  long  walk  through  the  town.  The  long 
avenues  of  acacias  were  very  solemn  and  beautiful.  The 
house  of  M.  de  Lesseps  was  here,  and  the  headquarters  of 
the  canal  works.  But  the  Arab  quarter  was  the  most  inter 
eating.     The  kind  and  obliging  dragoman  of  Messre.  Cook  & 


46 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


Son  took  US  through  the  narrow  streets  and  bazaars,  and  we 
got  a  good  view  of  genuine  Arab  life  which  we  shall  not  for- 
get. 

There  are  three  or  four  thousand  Arabs  in  this  quarter  of 
the  town,  and  among  them  were  almost  all  other  nationali- 
ties, and,  on  very  familiar  terms,  numerous  families  of  goats, 
donkeys,  dogs  and  camels.  These  people  live  just  as  they 
did  in  the  days  of  Abraham.  One  gets  a  very  vivid  realiza- 
tion of  Patriarchal  life  by  looking  at  them.  Here  are  the 
earthen  pitcher,  and  water  pots ;  here  are  the  people  with 
their  beds  of  mats  spread  on  the  sidewalk,  and  sleeping  all 
night  on  the  pavement,  and  in  the  morning  taking  up  their 
bed  and  going  their  way.  Here  are  a.  hun<?red  things  that 
make  the  Bible  real.  But  there  is  not  much  of  Christ.  One 
or  two  natives  that  we  have  met  are  interested  in  these 
things.  The  Custom  House  officer  received  us  veiy  cor- 
dially, and  told  us  he  belonged  to  the  American  Mission, 

Here,  at  Port  Said,  Mr.  Locke  has  a  good  Mission  work 
among  the  sailors,  and  at  Cairo  the  American  Presbyterians 
have  a  most  excellent  Mission,  both  of  which  we  expect,  D. 
v.,  to  see  before  we  leave.  The  majority  of  the  people  are 
Mohammedans.  They  are  the  most  self-satisfied  ^  unimpress- 
ible  people  in  the  world. 

We  passed,  in  our  hurried  journey  to  Cairo,  the  battle- 
field of  Tel-el  Kebir,  where  the  British  troops,  under  General 
Woolsey,  decided  the  fate  of  Egypt,  a  few  years  ago.  The 
next  station  to  this  is  very  interesting  as  being  the  site  which 
the  latest  explorers  have  identified  as  Ancient  Pithom,  one 


aars,  and  we 
jhall  not  for- 

lis  quarter  of 
er  nationali- 
lies  of  goats, 
just  as  they 
'^ivid  realiza- 
lere  are  the 
people  with 

sleeping  all 
ing  up  their 

things  that 
Christ.  One 
ted  in  these 
IS  veiy  cor- 
Mission. 
dission  work 
'resbyterians 
^e  expect,  D. 
le  people  are 
I J  unimpress- 

3,  the  battle- 
ader  General 
•s  ago.  The 
le  site  which 
Pithom,  one 


FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  EGYPT. 


47 


of  the  great  treasure  cities  the  Israelites  built  for  old 
Eameses.  This  is  the  veritable  land  of  Goshen,  and  while 
the  desert  lies  now  close  up  to  it  on  one  side,  yet,  on  the 
other,  the  fields  seem  as  fertile  as  ever  in  leeks  and  garlic 
and  all  sorts  of  vegetable^.  The  land  is  rich  and  green. 
Even  in  winter  the  peach  trees  are  in  blossom,  and  the 
oranges  are  hanging  from  the  trees,  and  they  are  deliciously 
sweet,  and  can  be  bought,  even  from  the  exorbitant  fruit 
boys,  for  a  cent  apiece.  The  palms  are  magnificent,  and  the 
dates  are  sold  at  the  car  windows  in  great  quantities,  and  are 
larger  and  finer  than  we  get  at  home. 

But  from  all  these  things  •  the  Master  turns  our  hearts 
with  a  certain  impatience  to  the  things  that  are  so  much 
more  to  His  heart.     The  great  world  rushes  to  see  these 
things,  and  yet  what  does  it  care  for  Him  ?    There  is  no  per- 
son   more    thoroughly  selfish  than  the  modern    traveller. 
Cook's  agent  here  was  teUing  us  to-night  of  a  party  he  took 
lately  to  Palestine,  and  they  all  began  complaining  about 
the  inferior  accommodations  they  were  crowded  into,  until 
he,  himself,  although  not  a  believer  in  Christianity,  b3gan  to 
preach  to  them  and  say  to  them,  "  Here  you  are  all  going  to 
the  Holy  Land,  and  professing  to  be  drawn  there  by  the  love 
of  the  Saviour,  who  lived  and  died  there,  and  yet  the  poor 
Mohammedan  will  put  up  with  privations  of  every  kind  for 
months,   on  his  wearj-  pilgrimages  to    the  shrine    of   his 
prophet,  and  even  a  heathen  wiU  bear  anything  to  honor  his 
god,  while  you  Christians  are  all  angry,  becauso,  for  a  few 
hours,  you  have  an  inferior  room  on  account  of  an  unusual 
crowd." 


4» 


LARGE r.   OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


We  should  not  want  to  be  found  long  in  the  company  of 
the  sight-seeing  crowd.  God  is  pressing  on  our  heart  the 
need  of  this  lost  world,  and  we  take  a  few  brief  days,  as  we 
hurry  past  these  interesting  scenes,  to  learn  a  little  from 
their  actual  contact  to  enable  us  to  make  His  word  and  His 
work  more  real  to  others. 


KANTABAH,  AND  THE  ROAD  TO  SYRIA. 

But  God  is  not  much  interested  in  Luxor,  Karnak, 
Memnon,  Thebes,  or  even  Pithom  He  is  not  living  in  the 
past,  but  in  the  future.  The  one  event  for  which  His  heart 
is  waiting  and  longing  is  the  coming  of  His  Son,  and  the 
redemption  of  the  world  for  which  He  died.  I^et  us  go  forth 
with  Him  in  deeper  earnestness,  prayer  and  effort  to  claim 


I 


tNDS. 

company  of 

nr  heart  the 

days,  as  we 

little  from 

)rd  and  His 


or,  Karnak, 
living  in  the 
ch  His  heart 
Jon,  and  the 
t  us  go  forth 
ort  to  claim 


FJA'S  T  IAfPK/:SSWXS  OF  EG  YPT. 

it.  The  most  disheartening  thing  ahout  these  people  is  their 
utter  content  with  their  false  religions.  Our  guide  at 
Ismalia  yesterday,  as  he  smoked  his  chebook,  and  leisurely 
drew  the  tobacco  fumes  through  the  long  tube,  and  the  ves- 
sel of  water  that  cooled  and  moistened  it,  looked  the  picture 
of  self-complacency.  He  told  us  he  was  a  Mohammedan, 
and  that  Mohammedans  did  not  drink  or  lie,  or  do  anything 
gross  or  wrong.  He,  himself,  had  already  been  fasting  for  a 
month  in  the  great  Rammadan,  or  three  months'  fast,  and  he 
thought  they  were  as  perfect  as  people  could  be.  Such 
people  ai-e  sealed  against  the  truth.  Only  the  omnipotence 
of  God  can  reach  them.  But,  one  by  one,  He  is  drawing  a 
few,  and  we  hope  to  have  some  fruit,  even  from  the  land 
of  Noph. 


m 


VI. 


FIRST  GLIMPr^ES  OF  PALESTINE. 


IT  would  seem  aH  if  God  had  not  intended  Palestine  to  be  a 
commercial  country,  for  it  possesses  no  harbor  on  its 
coast. 

It  is  often  impossible  for  ships  to  land  passengers  at 
Jaffa  at  all,  and  within  the  last  few  weeks  it  has  happened 
more  than  once  that  the  steamer  has  had  to  sail  past  this 
port  with  all  the  passengers  to  Beirut,  and  then  send  down 
by  the  next  steamer,  and  then  find  they  could  not  land  after 
all,  and  they  had  to  take  them  back  to  Port  Said.  The  only 
approach  to  a  harbor  is  a  ledge  of  rocks  lying  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile  from  shore,  parallel  with  the  coast.  On  this 
the  surf  beats  wildly,  but  inside  there  is  comparatively  calm 
water  for  small  boats.  But  the  entrance  to  this  haven  is 
narrow,  and  only  a  lifeboat  can  make  it,  and  then  only  with 
a  moderate  sea  running.  When  the  waves  are  very  high,  no 
boat  can  cross  this  bar.  Only  a  month  ago  a  boat  was 
swamped  in  trying  to  come  in,  and  thirty  passengers  per- 
ished. We  saw  the  remains  of  the  wrecked  Russian  steamer 
to-day,  from  which  our  friends  Messrs.  Stacey  and  Sanford 
so  narrowly  escaped  a  year  ago.  It  was  lying  on  the  rocks 
near  the  shore,  still  beating  to  pieces  in  the  surf. 

Therefore  as  we  drew  near  Jaffa,  qu  Sabbath  morning, 

5° 


\ 


L 


stine  to  be  a 
arbor  on  its 

issengei-s  at 
as  happened 
lil  past  this 
1  send  down 
3t  land  after 
1.  The  only 
bout  a  quar- 
jt.  On  this 
atively  calm 
lis  haven  is 
m  only  with 
ery  high,  no 
a  boat  was 
sengers  per- 
3ian  steamer 
ind  Sanford 
m  the  rocks 

bh  morning, 


Ijgt'ffitf-'.ffn 


Sa 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


February  5th,  after  a  somewhat  unpleasant  night,  we  cam© 
early  on  deck  to  see  how  things  looked.  Tt  was  just  six 
o'clock,  and  tlio  sun  was  that  moment  rising  out  of  the  hills 
of  Judea,  behind  the  rocky  heights  and  bold,  striking  houses 
of  Joppa.  The  flouds  were  glorious,  the  background  grand, 
and  the  foreground  superb.  Tt  was,  indeed,  the  "city  set  on 
a  hill  which  cannot  be  hid,"  a  worthy  gateway  to  a  great  and 
glorious  land. 

But  the  sea  in  front  was  rolling  heavily,  and  the  surf 
was  dashing  high  agunst  the  reef  of  rocks.  Wo  had  just 
anchored  about  two  uules  out.  We  could  see  boats  moving 
about  inside  tlie  breakeis,  but  they  did  not  seem  willing  to 
venture  out.  At  last,  after  about  an  hour,  they  began  to 
appear  around  tl("«  point,  tossing  like  waifs  upon  tho,billows. 
But  they  manfully  breasted  the  waves,  and  soon  a  dozen  of 
them  were  alongside  our  ship,  and  a  hundred  turbaned  Arabs 
contending  for  our  baggage.  We  put  ourselves  under  the 
care  of  Messrs.  Cook  &  Son,  and  their  sturdy  boatmen  soon 
had  us  all  on  board,  and  we  rowed  away  to  the  shore. 

By  the  blessing  of  the  dear  Lord  we  reached  land  in 
safety.  Some  of  our  party  were  a  little  frightened,  and 
one  corpulent  American  expressed  himself  more  than  satis- 
fied with  traveling,  and  said  he  was  going  straight  to  New 
York  as  soon  as  he  could  get  away  from  this  sort  of  thing. 

It  was  very  interesting  to  see  how  skillfully  the  boatmen 
watched  the  great  waves,  and  rowed  up  and  down  their  sides 
80  as  to  escape  their  heaviest  swell.  The  boatswain  stood 
behind  and  gave  orders.     When  he  saw  a  great  billow  in 


►-C.:-;!*"! 


NDS. 

t,  we  camo 
UH  just  nix 
of  the  hilU 
king  houses 
)Uiul  givand, 
'city  Bet  oil 
a  groat  and 

nd  the  surf 
Vo  had  just 
)ats  moving 
1  willing  to 
;y  hegau  to 
the,  billows, 
1  a  dozen  of 
)aned  Arabs 
9  under  the 
)atmen  SQon 
hore. 

hed  land  in 
[itened,  and 
than  satis- 
jbt  to  New 
rt  of  thing, 
ihe  boatmen 
n  their  sides 
swain  stood 
at  billow  in 


FfRST  CLfMPSES  OF  PALRSTISE. 


53 


front,  he  would  hold  up  his  rowers  until  it  nuuted  down,  and 
wlien  lie  saw  one  coming  up  behind,  he  would  shout  out 
"ruach  !  rnach!"  which  we  cuppose  means  rn.sh,  and  they 
would  fly  like  the  wind. 

One  could  scarcely  imagine  what  a  necessuty  and  import- 
ant institution  the  Tourist  office  is,  abroad,  'it  u  more  than 
worth  all  it  costs,  in  the  saving  which  it  swui*;;'  !;■>  the  trav- 
i/io  ^  of  infinite  inconvenience  and  trouble.  We  heard  to-day 
of  an  ridependent  Englishman,  who  declared  he  could  *laud 
^'t  Jopj  A  for  a  franc,  and  refused  all  Cooks'  services.  The  re- 
H'llt  W'-vd,  that  before  he  got  his  baggage  through  the  CiPioms 
*.ad  at  his  hotel,  he  declared  it  had  cost  him  several  pounds. 
They,  certainly,  are  very  kind  and  obliging,  and  although 
we  have  only  used  their  tickets  for  landing  and  short  jour- 
neys, aside  from  our  main  route,  they  could  not  have  been 
more  courteous  and  attentive  if  we  had  given  them  thousands 
of  dollars. 

Well,  after  we  once  got  ashore,  we  were  repaid  for  all 
our  trouble.  Our  first  act  was  to  get  alone  in  our  room,  and 
on  our  knees  thank  God  for  His  great  goodness,  and  then 
■claim  this  glorious  land  for  Christ.  Then,  after  breakfast,  it 
was  a  perfect  luxury  to  sit  down  in  the  garden,  back  of  the 
hotel,  and  take  in  the  whole  situation. 

Here,  in  midwinter,  we  were  sitting  in  air  as  balmy  as 
May,  with  flowers  of  every  tint  blooming  all  about  us,  acres 
of  orange  groves  heavy  with  their  Langing  ripe  fruit  just 
over  the  walls,  birds  singing  in  the  branches,  and  a  strange 
ineffable  sense  of  sweetness  and  sacredness  all  around  ;  and 


^^H^'* 


0 


MUD  I  T  E  RMA  N  EAUT , 
SEA 


54  LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

over  all  else,  the  delightful  consciousness  that  this  was  the 
laud  where  He  lived  and  died,  and  to  which  He  so  soon  was 

coming  back  again. 
It  was  like  a  delight- 
ful dream. 

The  morning  ser- 
vice in  the  English 
Church  called  us 
from  these  thoughts 
to  worship  God,  for 
the  first  time,  in  Pal- 
estine, and  it  was  a 
great  privilege  to  be 
able  to  do  so  even  in 
this  special  form  of 
prayer. 

In  the  afternoon,, 
we  took  a  walk  ta 
call  on  a  friend  in. 
the  Enghsh  Hospital, 
and  met  a  number  of 
delightful  Christian 
ladies  there,  and  had 
an  opportunity  to  see 
this  well-managed 
Institution  where 
quite  a  number  of  Syrian  and  Arab  patients  were  becom- 
ing acquainted  with  the  humane  side  of  Christianity,  and 
opening  their  hearts  to  Christ. 


EQyPT  AND  THE  HOLY  LAND. 


..,...->• 


lis  was  the 
o  soon  was 
(ack  again. 
:e  a  delight- 
1. 

oming  ser- 
ihe  English 
called  us 
se  thoughts 
ip  God,  for 
;ime,  in  Pal- 
id  it  was  a 
vilege  to  be 
0  so  even  in 
;ial  form  of 

afternoon^ 
a  walk  to 
a  friend  in 
ish  Hospital, 
a  number  of 
il  Christian 
ere,  and  had 
tunity  to  see 
ell-managed 
on  where 
svere  becom- 
stianity,  and 


tmmm 


FIRST  GLIMPSES  OF  PALESTINE. 


55 


One  of  the  workers  told  us  that  there  was  a  real  move- 
ment among  the  Mohammedans  of  Syria  and  Palestine 
toward  Christianity,  but  few  of  these  had  the  courage  to 
come  out  boldly,  as  the  persecutions  were  very  bitter,  some 
being  liable  to  ass-ssination  by  their  friends,  others  to  be 
drafted  into  the  army  and  thus  got  out  of  the  way.  She 
said  they  were,  however,  laying  a  train  of  powder  under  the 
enemies'  walls,  and,  some  day,  the  great  explosion  was 
coming  to  this  r  stem,  and  then  their  work  would  tell. 

We  found,  in  talking  with  the  intelligent  dragomans  and 
others,  that  there  is  a  universal  dislike  to  the  Turkish  govern- 
ment, which  is  the  one  obstruction  to  the  progress  of  this 
glorious  land.  The  Turk  simply  holds  it  to  extort  money 
from  the  people.  The  taxation  is  so  heavy  that  it  hardly 
pays  to  attempt  any  industry.  An  English  lady  lately  offered 
$180,000  to  bring  pure  water  from  Hebron  to  Jerusalem,  but 
the  Turk  only  tried  to  get  her  money,  and  she  was  wise 
enough  to  refuse  it  unless  she  was  permitted  to  construct  the 
works,  and  this  was  refused.  Jerusalem  and  Palestine  are 
trodden  down  of  the  Gentiles,  but  the  iron  heel  is  lifting,  and 
the  day  of  deliverance  is  surely  nigh. 

We  next  went,  of  course,  to  see  the  house  of  Simon,  the 
Tanner,  and  climbed  up  to  the  roof  where  Peter  saw  the 
vision  from  heaven  and  got  his  Jewish  prejudices  broadened. 
The  building  i^,  probably,  no  older  than  the  time  of  the 
Crusaders  ;  but  the  site  is  most  likely  the  same  as  Peter's  real 
home.  We  found  it  a  good  place,  at  least,  to  look  up  to  the 
si;:.me  heavens  whence  God  gave  him  the  first  commission  of 


iy\ 


56 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


the  gospel  for  the  Gentiles,  and  on  this,  our  first  Sabbath  in 
the  Holy  Land,  ask  for  a  renewal  of  our  commission  to  give 
the  gospel  to  the  Gentile  world. 

Walking  through  the  thronging  streets,  even  on  this  holy 
day,  we  could  not  help  seeing  the  strangest  scenes.  The 
bazaars  were  crowded  with  every  sort  of  ware.  The  market- 
place was  a  living  swarm  of  Arabs,  Turks,  Syrians,  men, 
women,  children,  fowls,  eggs,  vegetables,  fruits,  and  every 
sort  of  ware  and  vender. 

As  we  turned  to  go  down  to  Simon's  house,  a  long 
funeral  procession  was  just  coming  out  of  the  Greek  Church. 
It  was  most  striking.  A  young  man  of  wealth  and  influence 
had  just  died.  The  young  men  of  the  town  were  carrying 
the  bier  on  their  hands,  high  up  above  their  heads,  and  chant- 
ing a  plaintive  cadence,  about  his  goodness  and  his  loss.  The 
women  were  robed  in  pure  white  and  were  following  close 
behind,  screaming  in  a  wild,  piercing  way,  that  almost 
sounded  like  acting.  We  were  told  by  our  attendant  that 
they  were  not  hired  mourners,  but  his  sisters  and  friends. 
As  we  came  back,  half  an  hour  later,  they  were  gathered 
around  the  grave  in  the  cemetery,  still  making  the  same 
strange  cries  intermingled  with  the  dirges  of  the  men.  We 
waited  awhile,  and  the  sad,  wild  notes  still  went  on.  We 
felt  sad  for  the  hopeless  sorrow  of  the  world.  We  asked 
our  guide,  who  was  a  Greek  Christian,  if  there  was  any  hope 
in  it,  and  he  said,  "No," — it  was  all  sorrow  and  gloom.  He 
said,  in  Syria,  they  often  kept  up  the  mourning  until  some 
of  the  relatives  died  of  grief  within  a  few  days  after. 


BM 


NDS. 

Sabbath  in 
lion  to  give 

on  this  holy 
3enes.  The 
?he  market- 
rians,  men, 
,  and  every 

jse,  a  long 
3ek  Church, 
ad  influence 
»re  carrying 
\,  and  chant- 
is  loss.  The 
owing  close 
hat  almost 
Bndant  that 
ind  friends, 
re  gathered 
g  the  same 
}  men.  We 
at  on.  We 
We  asked 
as  any  hope 
gloom.  He 
until  some 
ter. 


F//?ST  GLIMPSES  OF  PALESTINE. 


57 


As  we  turned  homeward  from  this  scene,  we  overtook  a 
Moslem  marriage  procession.  A  little  girl  was  walking  in 
front  carrying  a  long  wax  candle,  to  be  presented  by  tbe 
bride  to  the  bridegroom.  A  lot  of  women  in  white,  heavily 
veiled,  were  walking  behind,  chanting,  or  rather  screaming, 
some  bridal  song.  But  the  notes  and  tones  were  just  the 
same  as  the  ciies  we  had  heard  at  the  funeral  procession- 
shrill,  feminine  shrieks,  in  a  high  key,  and  we  could  only 
hope  that  this  was  not  a  specimen  of  the  tones  in  which  the 
hride  was  to  address  her  husband  for  their  future  life.  Here 
our  attendant  told  us  that  the  marriage  ceremony  would  be 
performed  that  night  by  tbe  Sheik,  and  this  taper  would  be 
kept  burning  all  ni>i-ht  while  the  wedded  pair  would  sleep  all 
the  first  night  with  s  -(;rd  and  a  copy  of  the  Koran  between 
them,  separating  them  first  unto  Allah,  before  they  should 
he  united  to  each  other. 

What  absurd  scenes  meet  one  at  every  turn  !  Here  is  an 
Arab  whose  horse  is  running  away.  The  Arab  is  sitting  on 
liis  back,  without  bridle  or  rein,  pulling  fiercely  at  the  horse's 
mane  and  trying  to  stop  him,  while  he  is  calling  out  pite- 
•ously,  oce,  oce,  oce  which  means  v/hoa  !  whoa  !  whoa  !  and 
calling  on  everybody  to  stop  the  animal.  But  the  hoise 
keeps  on,  leaping  past  the  numerous  Arabs  that  try  to  head 
him  off,  until  he  and  his  rider  are  lost  in  the  distance  in  a 
cloud  of  dust.  The  Arab  seemed  determined  not  to  lose  his 
horse  even  if  he  lost  his  life. 

Here  is  a  little  boy  driving  a  donkey  along  the  road.  He 
is  a  very  small  boy  and  a  very  obstinate  and  shrewd  donkey. 


58 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


The  boy  is  crying  bitterly  because  the  donkey  won't  go,  but 
will  insist  on  stopping  at  the  nice  bits  of  grass  that  grow  by 
the  hedge  and  having  a  leisurely  breakfast.  The  boy  is,  evi- 
dently, afraid  of  the  donkey,  and  the  donkey,  evidently, 
knows  it.  Every  few  minutes  the  boy,  in  a  whimpering  tone, 
goes  up  pretty  near  the  donkey,  tells  him  to  go  on,  pre- 
tends to  strike  him,  but  keeps  far  enough  off  just  to  graze 
his  tough  back.  And  the  donkey  in  the  most  amusing 
fashion  just  turns  his  hind  legs  in  a  threatening  manner, 
which  seems  to  say  more  loudly  than  words,  "  Now,  you  just 
look  out !  "  The  animal  does  not  mean  to  hurt  him,  for  they 
are  harmless  little  creatures  not  much  bigger  than  sheep,  but 
only  to  scare  him,  and  this  he  has  already  done  most  thor- 
oughly. At  last,  the  boy  does  the  most  sensible  thing  in  his 
power,  he  appeals  to  a  big  Arab,  who  takes  the  club  out  of 
tho  boy's  hands,  gives  the  donkey  such  a  thrashing  as  he  will 
not  soon  forget,  and  sends  him  on  his  way  a  more  penitent 
and  willing  donkey  than  would  have  been  possible  any  other 
way. 

Well,  there  is  one  thing  we  can  all  do  when  our  enemies 
are  too  strong  for  us.  If  we  have  not  courage  to  face  them 
ourselves,  we  can  call  on  One  that  is  stronger  than  we  or 
they.    The  devil  is  not  afraid  of  us,  but  he  is  of  Him. 

We  have  met  some  very  excellent  Christian  people. 
Just  before  leading  Port  Said  we  called  on  the  excellent  mis- 
sionary of  the  Sailor's  Rest,  Mr.  Locke,  a  former  Salvation 
Army  worker  of  Toronto:  He  is  carrying  on  a  work  of 
faith,  for  the  sailors  of  all  nations,  who  crowd  that  port. 


\ 


I't  go,  but 
it  grow  by 
boy  is,  evi- 
evidently, 
3ring  tone, 
o  on,  pre- 
t  to  graze 
t  amusing 
g  manner, 
ir,  you  just 
n,  for  they 
sheep,  but 
most  thor- 
ling  in  his 
lub  out  of 
J  as  he  will 
•e  penitent 
any  other 

ir  enemies 
face  them 
lan  we  or 
Jim. 

m  people, 
lellent  mis- 
•  Salvation 
a  work  of 
it  port. 


F/fiSr  GLIMPSES  OF  PALESTINE. 

We  met  at  the  same  place  a  brave  pioneer  missionary, 
who  IS  laboring  upon  Karak  Moab.    This  is,  perhaps,  the 
ancient  Ku-,  mentioned  so  often  in  Isaiah.    He  is  far  beyond 
the  hmits  yet  reached  by  other  missions  in  Palestine,  and  is 
now  on  his  way  to  a  very  bold,  exploring  journey,  in  com- 
pany with  a  friend,  to  cut  his  way  through  the  heart  of 
Arabia,  from  the  Persian  Gulf,  and  see  if  he  can  open  a  line 
for  missionary  work  into  that  yet  unoccupied  land.     We 
ha/e  just  met  at  Jaffa  the  Missionary  Secretary  of  the  Y  M 
C.  A.  or  England,  who  has  been  planting  branches  of  the  Y 
M.  C  A.  at  Gibraltar,  Malta,  Cairo,  and  other  eastern  points 
and  has  formed  a  fine  branch  in  Jerusalem. 

So  God  is  girdling  the-  earth  with  points  of  light,  and 
preparing  to  gather  His  people  out  of  all  nations  and  kindred 
and  peoples  and  tongues  for  His  coming. 


VII. 


DAYS  IN  PALESTINE. 


THEY  have  not  been  many — only  seven — but  they  have 
been  memorable.  We  came  from  Egypt  to  Canaan, 
only  a  week  ago,  and  now  we  go  forth  from  Jerusa- 
lem, as  the  Lord  may  enable  us,  to  the  uttermost  parts  of 
the  earth.  This  is  surely  the  divine  order  ;  may  it  be  in  the 
fullness  of  the  divine  blessing  ! 

It  never  occurred  to  us,  until  we  reached  Jerusalem  that 
we  were  beginnmg  our  visit  to  the  heathen  world  at  Jerusa- 
lem, exactly  according  to  the  apostolic  plan.  We  are  very 
glad  it  has  been  so  arranged,  in  the  wise  and  precious  provi- 
dence of  God,  for  it  has  enabled  us  to  looh  at  the  field,  we 
believe,  from  the  Master's  standpoint,  and  from  the  true  cen- 
tre of  all  Chrislian  work. 

We  left  Jaffa  for  Jerusalem  on  Monday,  Feb.  6th,  by  the 
new  railway.  It  seemed  almost  a  desecration  to  hear  the 
locomotive  whistle  among  the  sacred  hills  of  Judah,  but 
after  one  has  travelled  ten  hours  by  carriage  or  horseback 
over  a  modern  Palestine  road,  be  will  vote  for  the  railway 
every  time  he  has  an  opportunity.  We  are  very  glad  to 
know  that  two  more  are  under  way,  farther  north,  connect- 
ing Haiffa,  Beyrut,  Noblous,   Damascus,   and  the  Persian 

Gulf,  and  we  pray  that  they  may  be  hastened 

60  • 


■"I 


DAYS  IX  I'.tLKSnXE. 


6l 


they  have 
5  Canaan, 
n  Jenisa- 
;  parts  of 
be  in  the 

ilem  that 
it  Jerusa- 
s  are  very 
)U8  provi- 
field,  we 
true  cen- 


th,  by  the 
hear  the 
idah,  but 
tiorseback 
e  railway 
Y  glad  to 
,  connect- 
Persian 


The  new  road  to  JeruHaleni  leads  across  the  famous  and 
fertil(3  ])]ain  of  Sharon,  where  we  gathered  a  few  of  the 
beautiful  scarlet  flowers,  of  the  anemone  family,  that  were 
out  in  carpets  of  bloom,  and  which  some  have  called  "the 
Rose  pf  Sharon, " 


0'. 


LARGER  OUT/  OOA'S  ON  MISSIONARY  1..,  VDS. 


.  1  left  we  could  see  Bethhoron,  where  Joshua  fought  his 
great  battle,  and  Gibeon  and  Ajalon,  and  wh.  he  commanled 
the  sun  and  moon  to  stand  still  and  prolong  tht  day,  until  his 
victory  should  be  made  complete. 

Th'^  ^  '"v.'^ows  a  natural  wady  or  stream  in  the  moun- 
tains, and  really  has  no  serious  engineering  difticultios  to 
t;ontend  with.  It  climbs  the  moimtains  by  an  easy  grade, 
twenty-seven  hundred  feet,  to  the  level  of  Jerusalem.  The 
valley  through  which  it  runs  is  a  fine  sample  of  thousands  of 
others  in  this  wondrous  land,  and  the  moment  we  saw  it 
we  understood  the  secret  of  ancient  Israel's  prosperity  and 
teeming  population. 

These  hills  have  all,  at  oih'  time,  been  terraced  fr<  ii  val- 
ley to  bi>nimit  in  narrow  ledges,  built  up  like  steps  of  stairs, 
eacii  little  terrace  supported  by  :  wall  of  stone  and  covered 
above  with  earth,  and  then  planted  with  vines,  fig  >,  and  olives 
In  ancient  times  it  must  have  been  a  'beautiful  sif'ht  tt 
these  lo  ,  and  winding  valleys,  reacn.ng  away  up  to  the 
clouds,  and  covere<i  with  their  thick,  rich  terrac<  gre^a 

an  J.  bloom. 

The  effect  of  the  hills  was,  )f  course,  to  multiply  the  c. 
tent  ar  size  of  the  land  many  times  over,  and  reallv  give  the 
counti^  an  area  and  extent  greatly  xceeding  its  appai<  nt 
size  A  Scotchman  once  said  to  a  bo.  sting  Englishman  that 
if  the  hills  of  Scotl  nd  were  all  flattened  out  it  vould  make 
two  England?.  The  same  is  really  t  "ue  of  Palestine.  Many 
of  the  terrrr^es  are  in  ruins,  much  '  the  soil  has  washed 
.aw    ',  anf^  few  of  the  vines,  t  gs  and  olives  arw  to  be  seen ; 


Kmmimmmif-- 


OS. 

fought  his 
>mmaiuled 
r,  until  his 

;he  moun- 

icUltit38    to 

asy  j-^rade, 
lem.  The 
rmsands  of 
we  saw  it 
perity  and 

fr(  ii  val- 
1  of  stairs, 
id  covered 
and  ohves. 

j;ht  t(       <\ 

up  to  the 
gre<^u 

aly  the  c. 
ily  give  the 
s  apparn  r 
hman  that 
ould  make 
ne.  Many 
as  washed 
0  be  seen ; 


DA  ys  IN  PALESTINE.  fi- 

but  one  can  see  from  the  niins  what  the  past  must  have  lx)en. 
There  is  much  desolation  in  this  Innd  ;  tliousands  of  hills 


THF  TO-VER  OF  RAMLEH. 


and  valleys,  once  green  ai).         itful,  are  but  heaps  of  stones  ; 

>ut  there  is  not  as  much  desolation  as  we  expected.    Again 

an<    again  have  we  seen  beautiful  plains,  like  Sharon,  fer- 


0.4 


I.ARUKR  OVTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LAXPS. 


tile  as  a  garden,  lovely  vineyards  and  olivj-vanla,  like  thewe 
of  Ranialeh,  Breroth  and  Hebrf)n,  where  \y>v  acres,  and  al- 
most miles,  there  was  nothing  but  luxuriant  trees  and  plants, 
and  the  amplest  evidence  that,  with  proper  industry  i»nd 
cultivatinii,  and  the  blessing  of  God,  the  laud  could  soon  be 
restored  to  its  former  prosperity. 

Most  of  the  numerous  (Colonies  planted  in  Palestine  by 
Kothschild,  Hirsch  and  others,  have  been  completely  success- 
ful. Many  of  them  have  to-day  the  most  flourishing  vineyards, 
oliveyards,  orchards  and  industries  of  v;  lious  kinds,  and  are 
fully  paying  all  expenses  and  a  good  d.al  more.  The  oranges 
of  Jaffa,  the  grapes  of  Hebron,  and  the  tigs  and  olives  of  the 
whole  land  aie  ecjual,  if  not  superior,  to  any  in  the  world. 

The  rains  are  truly  returning  to  the  country.  The  very 
best  authorities,  pt  rsons  that  have  lived  here  for  more  than  a 
quarter  oL  a  century,  have  assured  us  that  the  climate  is,  in- 
deed, hanging,  doubtless  fronv  the  direct  blessing  of  heaven, 
and  partly  irom  the  natural  effect  of  increasing  cultivation. 
The  greatest  hindrance  is  the  wretched  government.  It  does 
all  it  can  to  keep  back  western  progress  and  improvement, 
and  to  hold  the  people  down  by  the  yoke  of  taxation  and 
every  kind  of  selfish,  depressing  [wlicy,  Th  effect  of  this  is 
to  discourage  a  people  naturally  indolent,  apathetic  and  in- 
different. A  more  industrious,  intelligent  and  aggressive 
people  vsrould  soon  make  Palestine  a  land  of  prosperity.  One 
need  only  look  at  the  roads  where  travelling  is  dangerous  from 
the  heaps  of  stones  that,  1  tally,  lie  piled  on  every  path, 
when  a  very  trifling  amount  of  labor  would  clear  the  tracks 


V/AS-. 

,  like  these 
•leH,  and  al- 
and plants, 
idustry  ;iiid 
lild  Hoon  bo 

*ale8tiiio  by 
ely  success - 
^  vineyards, 
ids,  and  are 
The  oranges 
lives  of  the 
e  world. 
.  The  very 
more  than  a 
imate  i&,  in- 
j  of  heaven, 

cultivation. 
snt.  It  doe» 
iprovenient, 
axation  and 
ft  of  this  is 
letic  and  in- 
l  aggressive 
jerity.  One 
gerous  from 

every  path, 
r  the  trackii 


/'./)-.v  /A'  r.u./:sTf\/:. 


\S 


and  make  splendid  macadami/cd  roads,  for  the  foundations 
are  ius  solid  m  rocks,  ever  since  the  days  of  the  Honuins  who 
built  them. 

Many  of  tlie  helds  are  just  as  bad,  literally  [Kicked  witli 
rocks,  and  yet  a  lazy  Moslem  will  go  in  with  liis  crooked 
stick  tbat  ho  calls  a  plough,  and  scratch  up  the  soil  a  little, 
and  throw  in  some  grain  among  the  rocks,  and  let  it  come  up 
and  grow  the  best  it  can,  and  he  calls  this  farming  ;  while  a 
little  farther  on,  a  thrifty  (J reek  oi-  foreigner  lias  gathered  out 
the  rocks,  built  a  nice  fence  with  them  along  the  side  of  the 
field,  and  has  a  beautiful  and  bountiful  harvest. 

But  we  have  reached  the  suburbs  of  Jerusalem.  On  our 
left  is  the  German  colony,  which  has  been  growing  \i\)  for 
fifteen  years,  and  now  looks  like  a  prosperous  city  by  itself, 
with  its  new  well-built  stone  houses  and  good  streets.  A  few 
scattered  houses  stand  in  other  directions,  and  in  the  distance 
a  straggling  point  or  two  of  mosque  and  minaret  tell  us  that 
over  the  edge  of  yonder  hill  lies— Jerusalem. 

Wo  step  from  the  car.  Our  dear  friends.  Miss  Robertson 
and  Miss  Dunn,  are  waiting  to  welcome  us;  and,  indeed,  it 
feels  like  home.  Of  course,  we  walk  to  their  home.  This 
first  vision  of  Jerusalem  must  not  be  shut  out  by  carriage 
windows.  And  so,  giving  our  baggage  to  an  Arab,  and  send- 
ing our  dear  sisters  on  by  the  short  road  home,  we  accept  the 
kind  invitation  of  a  good  missionary  brother  to  walk  with  us 
aroun  I  the  wall,  homeward,  and  get,  at  least,  a  partial  view 
of  the  City  of  Ages. 

Ah  !  there  it  is  at  last.  We  have  reached  the  brow  of  the 
hill,  and,  lo  !  it  lies  at  our  feet. 


rrr- 


66 


LARGER  OUTLOOK'S  OX  MTSSIOXARY  LANDS. 


That  is  the  valley  of  the  Gihon,  running  into  the  valley 
of  Hinnoni,  just  below  us.  Right  across  it  is  the  height  of 
Zion  and  the  tower  of  David.  Farther  away,  on  the  other 
side  of  the  City,  the  great  valley  of  Jehoshaphat  runs  down 
to  meet  Hinnom,  and  about  where  they  meet  is  Aceldama ; 


GROUND  PLAN  OF  JERUSALEM. 

and  then  it  sweeps  on,  away  down  to  the  Dead  Sea  and  the 
valley  of  the  Jordan,  whose  great,  black,  rocky  walls  rise 
yonder  at  the  end  of  Jehoshaphat's  Vale,  apparently  only  two 
or  three  miles  away.  Across  the  valley  of  the  Jehoshaphat 
is  another  mountain  with  a  tall  tower  on  its  summit;  that  is 


..,,iiHjF;jp:i 


JNDS. 

0  the  valley 
le  height  of 

1  the  other 
runs  down 
Aceldama ; 


ea  and  the 
walls  rise 
rly  only  two 
ehoshaphat 
nit;  that  is 


DAYS  IX  PALESTINK. 


67 


— Olivet.  Farther  to  the  right  is  the  Mount  of  Offence,  and 
away  to  the  left  are  the  white  houses  of  crowded  Jerusalem. 
We  walk  through  the  Jaffa  Gate  and  the  Street  of  David, 
and  through  a  lot  of  dark,  overarched  lanes  thronged  with 
Arabs  and  their  children,  and  their  sheep,  and  their  dogs,  and 


WAILINQ  PLACE  OF  THE  JEWS. 

their  wares,  past  great  ecclesiastical  buildings  and  streets, 
and  sc-enes  that  call  up  a  thousand  associations,  out  the 
Damascus  Gate  on  the  north,  and  on  through  the  new  city 
that  has  grown  up  outside  its  northern  walls,  untir  We  reach 
an  iron  gate  and  a  pleasant  house  front.  We  cross  the  thres« 


f  !s;J>^  iVAj  I-  #  SijsE 


68 


LARGER   Orri.OOk'S  ox  MISSrONARY  LAl^'DS. 


hold,  and  we  are  at  home  in  Jerusalem,  in  the  house  of  our 
dear  Martha  p  id  Mary,  only  both  are  Marys  ;  and  the  Lord 
is  also  there. 

They  were  days  like  a  dream, — busy,  bhssed,  sacred, 
useful  we  trust — God-touched  we  know,  and  impossible  to 
describe  or  reproduce  to  our  readers  we  fear,  but  never- to  be- 
forgotten  days  in  dear  Jei'usalem. 

The  least  part  of  the  interest  and  blessing  of  those  days 
was  the  opportunity  of  seeing  the  city  and  the  land.  And 
yet  this  was  a  great  pleasure  and  opportunity,  even  in  the 
limited  time  we  had,  and  we  were  enabled  to  see  much,  and 
understand  and  realize  what  years  of  study,  at  a  distance, 
could  never  have  made  so  real.  Of  course,  the  time  at  our 
disposal  would  not  pemiit  our  going  to  Northern  Palestine, 
and  so  we  confined  ourselves  to  a  few  of  the  chief  scenes  of 
interest  within  twenty  miles  of  Jerusalem. 

Jerusalem  must  ever  be  the  centre  of  interest  for  every 
Christian  traveler  in  Palestine.  There  are  many  things  there 
which  chiefly  interest  the  antiquarian  and  archaeologist. 
For  us,  there  were  three  or  four  spots  which  overshadowed 
all  else.  We  cared  little  for  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepul- 
chre, for  we  were  quite  sure  it  was  not  the  scene  of  our  Sa- 
viour's death  and  resurrection,  and  all  its  clouds  of  incense, 
priestly  mummeries,  and  splendid  decorations  only  wearied 
and  disgusted  us.  We  took  no  interest  in  the  mosaics  and 
carvings  and  splendid  stained  glass  windows  of  the  Mosque 
of  Omar,  and  only  wanted  to  see  the  place  where  Abraham 
offered  his  sacrifice,  and  David  and  Solomon  reared  the  Tem- 


Wsmmm 


wmma& 


b'f'wnSW*'! 


INDS. 

ouse  of  our 
ul  the  Lord 

sed,  sacred, 
iipossible  to 
never- to  be- 

l  those  days 
land.  And 
even  \i\  the 
(  much,  and 
a  distance, 
time  at  our 
n  Palestine, 
ef  scenes  of 

3t  for  every 
things  there 
rchaeologist. 
ershadowed 
Holy  Sepul- 
3  of  our  Sa- 
j  of  incense, 
nly  wearied 
mosaics  and 
the  Mosque 
sre  Abraham 
•ed  the  Tern- 


JO  LARGER   OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

through  which  most  probably  He  passed  that  Wednesday 
night  as  He  went  out  to  Bethany,  and  delivered  His  predic- 
tions respecting  His  second  coming.     John  xiv  ;  xv  ;  xvi. 

We  were  interested,  of  course,  in  visiting  the  tower  of 
David  and  the  place  of  his  tomb  on  Mount  Zion,  and  seeing 


POOL  OF  BETHE8DA,  JERUSALEM. 

in  one  of  the  deep  excavations  some  remains,  probably,  of 
the  very  masonry  erected  by  the  Jebusites,  from  whom  Joab 
captured  the  stronghold,  three  thousand  years  ago.  Many  a 
Greek  and  Latin  and  Armenian  structure  we  saw  commem- 
orating some  supposed  scene  of  sacred  history,  the  Via  Dolo- 


■flwufrar^Mi  »imA%  ■  ^mtMK\  m  ii 


■  ,1  „».''l«*#">i 


VDS. 

fVednesday 
His  predic- 
:v  ;  xvi. 
le  tower  of 
and  seeing 


)robably,  «>f 
whom  Joab 
o.  Many  a 
V  commeni- 
e  Via  Dolo- 


DA  YS  IN  PALESTINE. 


71 


rosa,  the  Judgment  Hall,  the  Pool  of   Bethesda ;  all  these 
were  interesting  in  their  way. 

But  there  were  three  places  that  were  all-absitrbing. 
The  first  was  "the  place  called  Calvary."  At  a  glance  it 
was  evident  that  it  could  not  have  been  the  spot  where 
Greeks,  Latins  and  Armenians  have  contended  for  centuries 
for  preeminence,  the  Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  for  that 
is  far  inside  the  walls  of  Jerusalem,  and  must  ever  have  been 
so.  But  outside  the  Damascus  Gate,  or  rather  St.  Stephen's 
Gate, 

"There  is  a  green  hill  far  away, 
Beside  a  city  wall," 

and  even  a  glance  impi-esses  one  almost  instinctively  that 
this  must  have  been  the  place.  It  is  the -very  shape  «»f  a 
skull,  as  Golgotha  was.  And  right  beside  it  is  a  garden,  and 
under  its  brow  an  unfinished  tomb,  where  only  one  seems 
ever  to  have  lain,  and  where  can  be  dimly  traced  a  sign  of 
tht  .ross  ;  and  here  the  enlightened  scholarship  of  the  last 
few  yeaxj  has  almost  unanimcrisly  located  the  scene  where 
J'3sn.^  died  and  rose  again. 

It  iT  no-v\  a  Moslem  burial  place,  covered  with  tombs. 
There  is  one  great  rock  in  it,  all  torn  to  pieces,  as  if  by  a  vio- 
lent earthquake.  There  are  no  offensive  Greek  and  Latin 
churches  and  superstitious  rites,  but  all  is  simple,  natural, 
plain,  and  indeed  bare,  and  almost  desolate-looking,  as  be- 
fits the  true  significance  of  His  cross.  We  lingered  awhile, 
looked  into  the  locked  tomb,  where,  perhaps,  John  had  once 
gazed,  gathered  some  hyssop  from  the  wall,  and  ]»assed  on. 


72 


r.ARCr.K   Of/V.OOA'SOX  .VfSSIOXARV  LANDS. 


Our  heart  was  not  as  deeply  touched  as  it  was  later.     He 
was  not  there.     Every  instinct  pressed  us  forward  to  a  more 

sacred  si)ot. 

A  little  walk  took  us  to  the  Kedron  and  the  gardens  that 
cover  quite  a  considerahle  area  around  tlie  place  where  He 
must  have  crossed.     The  Latins  have  enclosed  one  of  these 

spaces  and  called  it 
Gethseniane,  and  all 
around  these  walls 
have  set  up  their 
graven  images  and 
painted  representa- 
tions of  the  various 
scenes.  They  have 
also  a  chapel  of  the 
Virgin,and  her  tomb. 
There  are  many  olive 
trees,  and  one  that 
is  at  least  one  thou- 
sand years  old.  We 
got  a  few  leaves 
from  it  through  the  kindness  of  the  monk  in  charge.  We 
could  but  wish  that  some  of  the  more  quiet  i)laces  around 
were  the  trut  places.  The  English  Christians  are  fond  of 
going  a  little  farther  out  to  an  unmarked  garden  and  praying 
there  in  remembrance  of  His  night  of  agony. 

But  our  hearts  were  not  able  to  rest  even  here.     On- 
ward with  our  guide,  a  Christian  gentleman  and  a  mission- 


tl^lL 


TOMB  OF  mBSALOM. 


later.     He 
to  a  more 

rdens  that 
where  He 
le  of  these 
[i  called  it 
ne,  and  all 
hese  walls 
up    their 
nages   and 
I'epresenta- 
,he  various 
Ihey  have 
ipel  of  the 
i  her  tomh. 
many  olive 
I   one  that 
i  one  thou- 
s  old.     We 
iw     leaves 
large.     We 
ices  around 
ire  fond  of 
,nd  praying 

here.     On- 
a  mission- 


74 


LARGER  OUTLO    KS 


MISSIONARY  LANDS 


aiy,  residing  in  Jerusalem,  we  passed  near  where  He  had 
passed,  up  the  side  of  nin  t,  which  we  found  much  n  arer 
thau  we  ha'.l  supposed,  not  hal  >  mile  awa}  Half  way  up 
the  mountain  we  got  a  grand  vew  of  Jerusalem,  wlr  '>  is 
the  best  point  of  view  by  tar.  Absalom's  tomb  Rtan<i .  in 
the  forej^round  in  the  valle)  with  i  few  old  ob  c  irees,  and 
across  tlie  valley  of  Jehoshapl.at  on  the  walls  of  Moriah  and 
the  Mosque  of  Omar,  where  the  Temple  stood.  Ba<  k  ot  this 
lies  the  great  city  with  its  many  ^  uildings,  almost  eveiy  one 
visible  having  some  strange  story. 

But  this  was  little  to  us.     We  >     I  sed  on  untii  w<- 

reached  the  summit  of  the  Mount,  o.  i  climbed  the  hij^ 
tower,  from  which  we  could  see  the  whole  land  and  the  d* 
valley  of  the  Jordan,  and  the  Dead  ^-a  .a  the  west.  Prom 
the  Greek  Church  near  by  a  distinguished  funeral  procession 
was  passing.  We  paused  a  little  and  still  pressed  on,~on  to 
Bethany,  which  lay  round  the  mountain  on  the  north  side 
and  beyond  a  second  little  hill-top.  It  was  to  this  our  heart 
was  pressing  forward— the  Mount  of  Ascension.  Yes,  this 
was  the  cUmax  of  all  our  journey,  and  all  His,  too.  "  He 
led  them  out  as  far  as  to  Bethany,  and  He  lifted  up  His  hands 
and  blessed  them.  And  it  came  to  pass,  while  He  blessed 
them,  He  was  parted  from  them,  and  carried  up  into 
heaven." 

There  on  the  rocky  hillside  we  sat  down,  with  the  little 
town  at  our  feet,  and  the  higher  mountain  top  above  us,  just 
hiding  the  great  city  from  view,  and  a  deep  divine,  imspeak- 
able  sweetness  fell  upon  cfur  spirit.     We  were  so  glad  there 


fftp.'i 


re  He  had 
iich  I  arer 
alf  way  up 
a,  whi  li  is 

»  fltan«l-  ill 

irees,  an<l 

VIoriah  and 

a(  k  of  this 

,  ev»  sv  one 

»n  until  w<' 

\  the  hig' 

id  the  de< 

est.    From 

procession 

on, —on  to 

north  side 

8  our  heart 

Yes,  this 

too.     "  He 

)  His  hands 

He  hlessed 

d    up    into 

h  the  little 

3ve  us,  just 

e,  ujispeak- 

glad  there 


J).  I  )  .s  /.v  P.U./:STl.\E. 


75 


•was  no  clnircli  to  mark  the  spot.  We  were  ho  ^lad  the  great 
city  was  shut  off  from  view.  We  w«re  so  glad  the  noisy 
Arabs,  with  their  cries  of  "backshish,"  came  not  there.  We 
were         i^lad  that  (iod  had  k«»pt  tliis  holy  place  from  the 


TOMB  OF  LAZARUS,   BETHANY. 

swinging  censers,  and  noisy  chants,  and  tumultuous  proces- 
sions, that  have  desecrated  almost  every  sacred  spot  in  Jeru- 
8al<  111.  There  was  no  one  near  us  but  the  Christian  friend 
\,y  our  side,  and  the  Presence  that  brought  back  all  the  Past, 
and  filled  the  mountain-side  with  living  forms  again. 

We  gave  up  our  whole  heart  to  the  luxury  of  that  mo- 


76 


r..iRG/:R  ocTf.ooKS  ox  Affssfox.iRY  i.Ayns. 


iiieut.  Wo  know  He  had  niet  iH.  Wo  realized  iu  the  depths 
(.f  our  being  that  He  wiis  our  Living,  Everlasting  and  Pres- 
ont  Lord.  We  felt  He  had  gathered  us  into  the  Company  of 
the  Ascension  ones,  and  with  us  a  great  and  glorious  com- 
l)any  of  many  dear  ones  away  across  two  seas,  whom  He 
made  so  real,  in  that  moment,  to  oiu-  att'oction  ;  and  together 
He  took  us  into  the  Heavoidy  Places,  and  the  Ascension 
Life,  and  we  knew  that  we  should  he  gathoied  on  that  sacred 
spot  once  more,  ere  long,  when  He  shall  comr  again,  "and 
His  feet  shall  stand  in  that  day  on  the  Mount  of  Olives." 

It  was  one  of  those  moments  that  setMu  to  focus  a  life- 
time and  all  we  have  ever  known  and  felt  and  hoped  into 
one  instant  of  intense  and  divine  realization.  Hours  after- 
ward, the  deep,  sweet  thrill  lingered  above  every  thought  or 
sensation,  and  it  lingers  still,  and  forever  will  linger— a 
mountain-top  of  memory,  hope  and  love. 

Sweet  OHvet,  sweet  Bethany, 

My  heart  shall  oft  remember  thee ; 
Where  Jesus  left  for  heaven  alwve, 

With  hands  outspread  in  parting  love, 
And  whnre  some  glorious  d'<y  He'll  come 

To  bring  His  scitt'-red  children  home. 
Sweet  Olivet,  sweet  Wethany, 

Sweet  Lord,  I  will  remember  Thee. 

We  made  a  pleasant  missionary  call  at  Bethany  on  alone 
and  faithful  worker,  and  found  that  there  was  a  good  deal 
of  interest  among  the  Moslems  of  the  place  in  her  work. 
This  dear  sister,  Miss  Crawford,  of  England,  has  built  a 
house  here,  and  is  living  at  her  own  expense,  and  workirig 
among  the  people  with  a  good  deal  of  encouvagemi  .it. 


■/)S. 


Mm 


the  (lopths 
and  Pres- 
ompany  of 
riouH  com- 
whoiii  Ho 
id  togother 
AscenHion 
that  sacred 
f;ain,  '*and 
Olives." 
3CU8  a  life- 
hoped  into 
[ours  after- 
thought or 
11  linger — a 


ny  on  a  lone 
a  good  deal 
I  her  work, 
has  built  a 
md  working 
rriv.it. 


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78  I.AKGKR  orTLOOKS  OX  MrSSfOXARV  LANDS. 

Another  English  lady,  Miss  Atley,  has  also  a  mission 
home  and  work  on  the  sunmiit  of  Ohvet.  Our  limited  time 
did  not  permit  us  to  meet  her,  hut  we  had  very  delightful 
fellowship  with  her  excellent  father,  who  usually  resides  and 
lahors  with  her,  hut  whom  we  met  at  Jaffa,  where  he  is  at 
present  supplying  a  post  of  service  temporarily. 

The  walk  home  took  us  along  the  Jericho  road,  and  the 
veiy  route,  no  doubt,  that  Jesus  traversed  when  He  came 
down  from  Bethpage  and  Bethany,  on  the  little  colt,  and 
met  the  multitude,  and  afterwards  entered  Jerusalem  in  the 
triumphal  procession.  There  is  a  point  where  the  road 
makes  an  abrupt  turn  around  the  mountain,  and  the  city 
comes  fully  into  view.  It  was  here  that  Jesus  wept  over 
Jerusalem,  and  predicted  its  speedy  and  utter  overthrow. 

Luke  xix  :  41-4-i.  . 

We  reached  our  home  about  two  o'clock,  having  lived 
vears  in  one  brief,  eventful  morning.  The  afternoon  was 
'spent  in  visiting  many  objects  of  deep  interest  i«i  the  city, 
and  the  evening  found  a  dehghtful  company  of  Christian 
workers  and  missionaries  gathered  together  at  the  home  ox 
our  dear  hostesses  to  welcome  us,  and  h.ar  some  message 
from  the  Master,  whose  presence  seemed  so  near. 

Blessed  "City  of  our  God,  and  mountain  of  His  hoh- 
ness  Beautiful  for  situation,  the  joy  of  the  whole  earth,  is 
Mount  Zion,  on  the  sides  of  the  north,  the  City  of  the  Great 
King  Walk  about  Zion,  and  go  round  about  her ;  tell  the 
towers  thereof.  Mark  ye  well  her  bulwarks,  consider  her 
palax^s ;  that  ye  may  tell  it  to  the  generation  following. 


WDS. 

0  a  mission 
imited  time 
y  delightful 
■  resides  and 
fieve  he  is  at 

sad,  and  the 
3n  He  came 
tie  colt,  and 
saleni  in  the 
re  the  road 
md  the  city 
IS  wept  over 
•  overthrow. 

having  lived 
'ternoon  was 
t  in  the  city, 
of  Christian 
i  the  home  of 
ome  message 
ir. 

1  of  His  holi- 
rhole  earth,  is 
'  of  the  Great 
i  her  ;  tell  the 
,  consider  her 
ion  following. 


J) A  YS  IX  PALESTINE. 


79 


Hh  will  be  our  Guide 


For  this  is  our  God  foiever  and  ever 
even  unto  death." 

Nay  rru)r.. :  ••  For  they  that  trust  in  the  Loi-d  shall  he  as 
Mount  Zion,  which  cannot  he  removed,  hut  ahideth  forever." 
'•As  the  mountains  are  round  about  Jerusalem,  so  the  J.ord 
is  round  about  His  people  from  henceforth,  even  forever." 
Psa.  xlviii :  1,  2,  12  U;  cxxv  :  1,  2. 

One  very  pleasant  day  of  our  short  stay  in  Jerusalem 
was  spent  in  a  horseback  journey  to  the  North.  Rising  be- 
fore daylight,  a  party  of  four  started  as  soon  as  we  could  get 
off,  along  the  road  that  leads  up  the  hill  of  Scopus,  and  out 
towards  Nablous,  Tiberias  and  Damascus. 

The  first  point  of  special  interest  was  the  old  town  of 
Anathoth.  It  had  for  us  an  intense  interest  as  the  home  of 
Jeremiah,  and  the  scene  of  that  beautiful  incident,  Jer. 
xxxii:  8  ..  where  the  prophet,  in  Jerusalem's  darkest  days, 
when  the  Chaldeans  occupied  the  land  and  the  city  was 
about  to  fall,  was  commanded  to  take  a  bold,  and  apparently 
unreasonable  step  of  faith,  by  investing  his  money,  perhaps 
all  that  he  had,  in  a  field  in  Anathoth,  as  a  guarantee  that 
the  land  was  coming  back  again  to  the  people  of  God.  Often 
has  the  old  story  taught  us  the  secret  of  faith,  and  the  ne- 
cessity of  stepping  out  in  advance  of  all  seemings,  and  tnist- 
ing  God  in  the  dark. 

It  was  very  interesting  to  stand  for  a  little  on  the  echo- 
ing  hill-side  tHat  looks  down  upon  the  deep  valley  of  the 
Dead  Sea  and  the  Jordan,  and  hear  across  twenty-six  cen- 
turies the  echo  (for  that  is  what  the  word  Anathoth  means) 


8o  LARC.r.K  01  TI.OOKS  OS  MISSIONARY  I. ASPS. 

of  the  same  old  faith,  which  has  ever  heeu  the  watchword  of 
God's  host ;  and,  we  tnist,  we  were  enabled  to  echo  back 
again  the  words,  "I  will  trust." 

Returning  to  the  main    road,  we   passed  on  by  Mob, 


tj\  >x<JU,^Ca#^' 


ANATHOTH. 

I  Sam.  xxi,  xxii ;  Gibeah  of  Saul  and  Micmash,  I  Sam.  xiii. 
xiv  .  Ramah,  the  home  and  burial  place  of  Samuel,  and  many 
other  places  teeming  with  sacred  associations.  This  was  the 
highway  of  the  Assyrian  and  Chaldean  armies,  when  they 
marched  against  Jerusalem;  Isaiah  has  given  a  most  vivul 


/.\7'.V. 


vatchvvord  of 
to  echo  ba(.k 

on  by   Nob, 


sh,  I  Sam.  xiii. 
nuel,  and  many 
This  was  the 
lies,  when  they 
n  a  most  vivid 


DA  VS  IN  PALESTINE. 


8l 


picture  of  this  whole  region,  in  his  dramatic  panorama  of  tho 
Assyrian  March,  Isaiah  x  :  2S-n2  :  "He  is  come  to  Aiuth, 
he  is  passed  to  Migron  ;  at  Micmash  he  hath  laid  up  his  car- 
riages ;  they  are  gone  over  the  passage  ;  they  have  taken  up 
their  lodging  at  Geba  ;  Kamah  is  afraid  ;  Gibeah  of  Saul  is 
fled.  Lift  up  the  voice,  0  daughter  of  Gallim  ;  cause  it  to  bo 
heard  with  Laish,  0  poor  Anathoth.  ,  .  .  As  yet  he  shall 
remain  at  Nob  that  day  :  he  shall  shake  his  hand  against  the 
mount  of  the  daughter  of  Zion,  the  hill  of  Jerusalem." 

And  so,  in  succession,  the  eye  of  the  seer  beholds  the  con- 
queror's approach,  amid  scenes  of  terror,  through  the  villages 
that  mark  this  road.  Our  objective  point,  however,  was 
Bethel,  the  place  of  Abraham's  altar  and  Jacob's  Ladder,  and 
the  symbol  of  Jehovah's  Covenant  with  His  people  in  all  tho 
generations.     Often  liad  we  sung  and  prayed — 

*'0  God  of  Bethel,  by  whose  hand 

Thy  people  still  are  fed, 
Who  through  this  weary  pilgrimage 

Hast  all  oi:r  fatheis  led, 
Our  vows,  our  prayers,  we  now  present, 

Before  Thy  throue  of  grace  ; 
God  of  our  fathers,  be  the  God 

Of  their  succeeding  race. 

"Through  each  perplexing  path  of  life 

Our  wandering  footsteps  guide  ; 
Give  us  each  day  our  daily  bread 

And  raiment  tit  provide  ; 
O  spread  Thy  covering  wings  around, 

Till  all  our  wand<r rings  cease. 
And  at  our  Father's  loved  abode 

Our  souls  arrive  in  i)eace. " 


r 


82 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OIV  MLSSIONARY  LANDS. 


The  i)i'omiso  that  lias  bet'u  sustaining  us  all  through  this 
journey  was  the  gracious  word  spoken  to  Jacob  at  Bethel : 
"Behold,  I  am  with  thee,  and  will  keep  thee  in  all  i)laces 
whither  thou  goest,  and  will  bring  thee  again  into  this  land  ; 
for  I  will  not  leave  thee  until  I  have  done  all  that  I  have 
8i)oken  to  thee  of. "  It  was  very  blessed  to  receive  it  afresh 
at  Bethel,  perha])s  on  the  very  sjiot  where  Jacob's  eyes  beheld 
the  Mystic  Ladder,  and  found  the  house  of  God  and  the  Gate 
of  Heaven.  Hosea  says,  "He  found  Him  at  Bethel,  and 
there  He  spoke  with  us."  And  so  again  He  spake  with  us, 
aud  we  i-ealized  that 

"  Thore's  a  ladder  up  to  heaven 
Everywhere  we  roam, 
And  the  gates  of  prayer  can  never 
Find  us  far  from  home." 

The  modern  village  of  Bethel  is  of  considerable  size,  and 
its  olive  and  fig  orchards  are  very  flourishing.  A  little  way 
off  are  the  ruins  of  the  ancient  site,  and  there  wo  encamped 
and  took  oxxv  lunch.  Back  of  the  ruin  is  a  lofty  hill,  where  it 
is  said  Abraham  looked  out  over  the  land,  when  God  said, 
"Lift  up  now  thine  eyes,  northward,  and  southward,  and 
eastward,  and  westward  ;  for  all  the  land  which  thou  seest, 
to  thee  will  I  give  it,  and  to  thy  seed  forever."  "Arise,  walk 
through  the  land  in  the  length  of  it  and  in  t^ie  breadth  of  it ; 
for  I  will  give  it  unto  thee." 

From  this  point  it  would  not  be  hard  for  Lot  to  see  the 
beautiful  valley  of  the  Jordan,  But  Abraham  saw  farther, 
and  got  much  more,  including  even  all  that  Lot  so  selfishly 


LANDS. 

1)  through  this 
ob  at  Bethel : 
3  in  all  i)lace8 
into  this  land  ; 
1  tliat  I  have 
3eivo  it  afresh 
b's  eyes  beheld 
1  and  the  Gate 
t  Bethel,  and 
ipake  with  us, 


rahle  size,  and 
A  little  way 
I  we  encamped 
f  hill,  where  it 
hen  God  said, 
3uthward,  and 
ich  thou  seest, 
''Arise,  walk 
breadth  of  it ; 

Lot  to  see  the 
n  saw  farther, 
ot  80  selfishly 


o 
m 

-I 
I 
n 

r 


84 


L.IRGHR  OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIOX.IKV  LANDS. 


chose.  ( )ttcn  had  wo  taken  Abraham's  look  of  faitli,  hut,  to- 
day, wo  asko.1  tho  Lord  to  let  us  boo  a  good  deal  farther  even 
than  this  fair  vision. 

In  later  centuries  Bethel  hecamo  tho  seat  of  Jeroboam's 
calf-worship,  and  one  of  tho  towns  of  Israel's  Kingd.miof  the 
Ten  Tribes.     It  nuist  have  been  tho  southern  boundary. 

Our  dear  sisters  in  Jerusalem  have  taken  it  as  tho  name 
of  their  Home,  and  wo  trust  that  the  Jerusalem  Betiiel  may, 
indeed,  ever  bo  "tho  House  of  (lod  and  the  very  Oate  of 

Heaven." 

We  noticed,  as  wo  have  often  read,  that  the  terraced  hiUs 
at  Bethel  seemed  just  like  great  steps  of  stairs  loading  up  to 
heaven,  and  we  can  easily  imagine  how  the  last  sight  Jacob's 
eyes  beheld,  as  he  fell  asleep,  should  suggest  tho  beautiful 
vision  of  his  dream,  a  great,  white  stairway  leading  up  to  tho 

We  passed  a  large  cave  at  Bethel,  where  it  would  seem 
tho  most  natural  thing  for  him  to  sleep  that  lonely  night,  and 
wo  brought  away  some  memorial  vines  from  its  walls. 

The  road  back  led  through  the  Christian  village  of  Ra- 
maleh,  where  there  is  scarcely  a  Moslem  family.  We  found 
a  most  prosperous  little  town,  and  all  around,  the  rocky  hill- 
sides were  in  the  very  highest  state  of  cultivation,  with  splen- 
did vineyards  and  comfortable  homes,  showing  what  Pales- 
tine could  become  with  proper  culture  and  people.  We  had 
the  great  pleasure  of  meeting  with  the  American  missionaries 
there,  the  Leightons,  of  the  Friends'  Mission.  We  spent  half 
an  hour  very  pleasantly  with  them,   and  saw  their  little 


DS. 

til,  l)Ut,,  to- 

ither  evfii 

Icroboam'a 
tlotiiof  the 
idary. 

tho  name 
t^tlicl  iiuiy, 
My  Gate  of 

srraced  hills 
Ltling  up  to 
igl it  Jacob's 
le  beautiful 
igup  to  the 

kvould  seem 
y  night,  and 
walls, 
lage  of  Ra- 

We  found 
i  rocky  hill- 
,  with  splen- 
what  Pak's- 
e.  We  had 
missionaries 
''e  spent  half 

their  little 


JJ.l  iS  J  A'  rALiisriNE, 


85 


JERUSALEM  AND  THE   MOUNT  OF  OLIVES  FROM  SCOPUS. 

school  of  about  thirty  bright  children,  whom  we  had  the  priv- 
ih'ge  of  addressing.  It  gave  us  quite  a  home  feeling  to  see 
one  of  our  little  hymns,  "Himself,"  translated  into  Arabic, 


86 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


and  we  promised  to  send  them  the  nmsic  for  it.  We  found 
them  on  intimate  terms  with  our  dear  workers  ;  and,  indeed, 
we  were  pleased  and  surprised  to  find  the  very  friendly  rela- 
tions existing  among  all  the  missionaries. 

We  got  home  about  dark,  enjoying  a  very  fine  view  of 
the  city  from  the  hill  Scopus,  just  north  of  Jerusalem,  and 
noticing  the  rapid  and  remarkable  growth  of  the  city  in  this, 
direction,  where  a  new  city  has  grown  up  outside  the  walls 
in  the  past  five  or  six  years.     This  is  supposed  by  many  to  be 
the  very  district  described  by  Jeremiah  in  his  wonderful  pre- 
diction of  the  future  growth  of  Jerusalem,  Ch.  xxxi  :  aS-40  : 
"Behold  the  days  come,  saith  the  Lord,  that  the  city  shall  be 
built  to  the  Lord  from  the  tower  of  Hananeel  unto  the  gate 
of  the  corner,  and  the  measuring  line  shall  yet  go  forth  over 
against  it  upon  the  hill  Gareb,  and  shall  compass  to  Goath. 
And  the  whole  valley  of  the  dead  bodies  (and  this  very  valley- 
is  full  of  ancient  tombs),  and  of  the  ashes,  and  all  the  fields 
unto  the  brook  of  Kedron,  unto  the  corner  of  the  horse  gate 
toward  the  east,  shall  be  holy  unto  the  Lord  ;  it  shall  not  be 
plucked  up,  nor  thrown  down  any  more  forever." 

This  is  the  part  of  Jerusalem  where  nearly  all  the  Protes-^ 
tant  mission  work  is  located,  and  where  our  little  mission  is, 
and  already  it  has  been  made  "  holy  unto  the  Lord,"  and  is. 
rapidly  filling  up  with  houses  and  people.  Let  us  take  hold 
with  our  dear  ones  for  a  glorious  blessing ! 

Already  in  a  quiet,  humble,  but  very  clear,  wise  and 
marked  way  the  blessing  has  begun.  Our  dear  friends  have 
been  led  by  the  Master  in  much  prudence  and  faith,  and  tlie 


■  LANDS. 

it.  We  found 
•s  ;  and,  indeed, 
■y  friendly  rela- 

?ry  fine  view  of 
Jerusalem,  and 
the  city  in  this, 
utside  the  walls- 
d  by  many  to  be 
3  wonderful  pre- 
h.  xxxi  :  ;iS-40  : 
the  city  shall  be 
1  unto  the  gate 
Bt  go  forth  over 
upass  to  Goath. 
I  this  very  valley 
nd  all  the  fields 
f  the  horse  gate 
;  it  shall  not  be- 
ver." 

ly  all  the  Protes- 

little  mission  is, 

le  Lord,"  and  ia 

liCt  us  take  hold 

clear,  wise  and 
ear  friends  have 
id  faith,  and  th« 


IWYS  I.\  PALESTINE. 


87 


Lord  has  already  given  them  a  very  blessed  place  in  the  con- 
fidences of  the  other  workers,  and  in  the  beginning  of  Jeni- 
salem's  restoration. 

The  Christian  work  in  this  city  must  be  very  quiet  or  the 
jealousy  of  the  Turkish  authorities  will  be  excited,  and  some 
times  the  work  suppressed.  It  is  not  best  even  that  rte 
should  say  too  much  about  it  i)ublicly,  or  attract  undue  atten- 
tion to  it  from  its  enemies.  But  we  can  speak  most  hopefully 
and  thankfully.  We  have  no  doubt  that  the  Lord  has  led 
our  sisters  to  come  here,  and  has  guide  ■"  them  every  step  of 
their  way.  We  have  not  felt  at  lil)erty  iiitherto  to  encourage 
any  considerable  number  of  new  workers  to  come  to  this  land, 
in  view  of  the  limited  oj)portunities  and  population  of  the 
land.  But  we  are  satisfied  that  there  is  room  for  a  few  more 
laborers,  even  at  this  time  ;  but  they  should  bo  of  the  highest 
kind,  and  ^.now  the  Lord  so  well  that  they  will  be  saved 
from  rashness  and  serious  mistakes. 

We  believe  the  work  in  Jerusalem  might  l)e  greatly 
strengthened  by  the  addition  of  a  man  able  to  conduct  public 
religious  services,  and  gather  around  this  little  nucleus  the 
spiritual  elements  that  are  wanting,  and  gradually  establish 
a  strong  centre  on  simple,  Scriptural  and  Pentecostal  lines. 

Never  before  have  we  been  so  much  impressed  with  the 
place  of  Jerusalem  in  the  plan  of  the  world's  evangelization 
This  was  the  Master's  command,  and  it  is  still  in  force.  We 
believe  that  this  means  not  only  the  people,  but  the  place, 
and  we  are  somewhat  strongly  impressed,  thai  from  this 
centre  the  Lord  wants  very  powerful  spiritual  impulses  and 


;ArErt»«SS«»B.;:i 


88 


LARCF.R  Ol'TLOOk'S  OX  MISSIONARY  L.UXDS. 


influences  to  go  forth,  in  this  last  great  missionary  movement, 
for  the  evangehzation  of  the  world.  None  t)f  us  may  quite 
understand  all  He  means  by  it,  but  we  are  impressed  that 
there  should  be  a  strong  centre  there,  and  that  the  Master's 
heart  is  still  looking  out  upon  the  whole  world  from  Jeru- 
salem as  a  centre  more  than  we,  perhaps,  have  dreamed. 

"When  the  Most  High  divided  to  the  nations  their  in- 
heritance, He  set  the  bounds  of  the  people  according  to  the 
number  of  the  children  of  Israel."  Deut.  xxxii  :  8.  And 
still  He  is  working  according  to  that  rule.  Men  may  pcorn 
the  Jew,  but  he  is  the  key  to  the  problem  of  history. 

As  we  spent  our  first  night  in  Jerusalem,  we  were  glad 
that  God  had  permitted  us  to  begin  our  missionary  journey 
and  visit  our  first  missionaries  at  Jerusalem.  And  we  could 
not  but  feel  that  this  little  beginning  was  yet  to  be  felt  in  all 
lands.  We  were  glad  to  receive  from  our  dear  Lord  this  pre- 
cious promise  for  workers  in  Jerusalem:  "There  shall  be 
an  handful  of  corn  in  the  earth  on  the  top  of  the  mountains  ; 
the  fruit  thereof  .sliall  shake  like  Lebanon  :  and  they  of  the 
city  shall  flourish  like  the  grass  of  the  earth."  Psa.  Ixxxii  : 
10. 

We  were  agreeably  surprised  to  find  a  little  company  of 
Christian  workers  and  missionaries  waiting  for  us  at  Bethel 
Home,  oiu-  missionary  home,  on  Tuesday  evening,  and  as  we 
talked  of  our  work,  and  all  that  was  upon  the  Master's  heart 
for  Jerusalem,  Jesus  Himself  drew  near,  and  we  were  all  re- 
freshed and  comforted.  There  were  Presbyterians,  and  Epis- 
copalians; and  almost  all  the  missions  were  represented. 


J- 


X/JS. 


D.IVS  L\  PALESTIXK. 


89 


movement, 
5  may  quite 
•ressed  that 
he  Master's 
from  Jeru- 
■oamod. 
IIS  their  in- 
ding  to  the 
ii  :  8.  And 
I  may  gcorn 
>ry. 

e  were  glad 
ary  journey 
lid  we  could 
>e  felt  in  all 
ord  this  pre- 
;re  shall  be 
mountains  ; 
tliey  of  the 
Psa.  Ixxxii  : 

company  of 
IS  at  Bethel 
;,  and  as  we 
ister's  heart 
were  all  re- 
is,  and  Epis- 
3sented. 


On  the  following  evening  we  were  invited  to  meet  the 
workers  in  another  Home,  and  here  we  had  the  i)leasure  of 
meeting  with  a  still  larger  company,  including  several  of  the 
ministers  and  missionaries  of  the  Church  Missionary  Society, 
the  oldest  society  and  the  largest  in  Jerusalem  ;  also  some 
from  the  Moravian  and  London  Jews'  Society.  The  spirit  of 
loving,  humble  and  most  brotherly  unity  was  most  cheering, 
and  we  were  so  glad  that  our  dear  workers  had  come  into 
this  pleasant  atmosphere  so  soon.  In  many  hearts  there  was 
a  real  longing  for  deeper  spiritual  life,  and  the  baptism  of  the 
Holy  Spirit.  Of  course  there  Avas  not  quite  the  freedom  that 
we  so  happily  enjoy  wheie  all  restrictions  are  removed  ;  but 
theie  was  much  more  than  we  expected,  and  we  believe  God 
is  preparing  a  little  company  in  Jerusalem,  in  many  of  the 
missions,  through  wliom  He  can  accomplish  much  for  the 
Avorld. 

The  two  leading  societies  are  the  Church  Missionary  So- 
ciety and  the  London  Society  for  the  Jews.  The  former  has 
seven  central  stations  and  forty  outstations  in  Palestine,  and 
the  latter  is  also  doing  an  extensive  work.  The  Moravians 
have  also  a  special  Mission  to  the  Lepers,  and  a  Home  for 
them.  We  had  a  special  commission  given  us  for  this  class, 
and  we  have  met  many  of  them  on  the  road  to  Olivet,  and 
endeavored  to  fulfill  our  truct  to  the  best  of  our  ability.  We 
foimd  many  of  them  professional  beggars,  and  not  the  most 
honest  people  in  the  world.  But  their  cries  were  distressing 
and  their  need  great.  They  are  still  outcasts — without  the 
city  gates.    But  the  government  has  provided  a  Home  for 


X 


a    -u  : 


90  LARGER   OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSL  '  VARY  LANDS. 

all  who  will  go,  and  the  Moravians  have  anotlier,  and  there 
is  no  need  that  any  of  them  should  be  in  utter  distress. 

The  cry  for  "backshish"  is  one  of  the  nuisances  of  this 
land,  and  the  mendicants  are  often  unworthy.  One  old  ras- 
cal met  us  in  rags  at  the  Jaffa  gate  with  outstretched  hands, 


TOMB  OF  RACHEL,  ON  THE  ROAD  TO  HEBRON. 

and  our  guide  told  us  that  he  owned  one  of  the  finest  estates 
in  the  country, 

"We  spent  one  pleasant  day  visiting  the  country  south  of 
Jerusalem.  Abraham  removed  from  Bethel  to  Hebron  im- 
mediately after  his  separation  from  Lot ;  and  so  we  also' 
passed  on  the  following  day  from  Bethel  to  Hebron.     Theie 


INDS. 

31',  and  thei'e 
istress. 
ances  of  this 
One  old  ras- 
tched  hands, 


finest  estates 

itry  south  of 
1  Hebron  ini- 
1  so  we  also 
bron.     There 


D.ns  I.X  r.lf.ESTINE. 


91 


is  a  fine  carriage  road,  and  the  distance  from  Jerusalem  is 
eighteen  miles.  It  is  a  ride  of  about  five  hours  each  way. 
The  road  leads  near  to  Bethlehem,  and  passes  directly 
through  the  valley  of  Eschol  It  was  there  that  the  spies 
found  the  enormous  grapes  which  two  men  had  to  i;arry  on  a 
pole.  The  valley  is  still  highly  cultivated  and  filled  with 
vineyards,  and  the  grapes  are  said  to  be  as  fine  as  ever. 

Hebron  is  a 
fine  city  of 
eighteenthou- 
sand  inhabi- 
tants.  It 
seems  to  be 
most  prosper- 
ous. We  saw 
them  making 
the  famous 
skin  bottles 
out  of  goat 
skins,  which 
are  tan ned 

and  sewed  together  so  that  they  look  exactly  like  a  stuifed 
goat.  We  looked  into  one  of  the  Moslem  schools,  and  saw  the 
dominie  sitting  in  the  corner  cross-legged,  on  a  plank,  which 
one  of  our  party  called  the  school  Board,  and  a  dozen  little 
Arabs  around  him  repeating  and  reading,  from  a  tin  slate, 
passages  of  the  Koran.  We  tried  to  buy  one  of  the  slatep» 
but  they  said  it  was  a  sin,  as  the  Koran  was  written  on  it. 


ABRAHAM'S  OAK,   HEBRON. 


92 


I.ARG/:/^   OCTLOOKS  OX  MISSfOX.IRY  L.IXPS. 


However,  money  always  prevails  with  an  Arab,  and  a  six- 
pence secured  an  old  cne,  which  we  have  for  our  missionary 


HEBRON,  AND  MOSQUE  OVER  THE  CAVE  OF  MACHPELAH. 

museum.  The  Pool  of  David  was  there,  and  the  tomb  of 
Abraham  and  Sarah,  in  Machpelah's  cave.  The  plain  of 
Mamre  is  there,  and  an  oak,  at  least  one  thousand  years  old, 


,  and  a  six- 
missionary 


.he  tomb  of 
le  plain  of 
i  years  old, 


/?./)'.v  /x  r.u.f:si/\j-:. 


93 


no  doubt  just  like  the  one  where  Abraham  sat  with  the  angels 
and  the  Lord.  The  hills  are  there  tliat  Caleb  won  for  his  in- 
heritance from  the  Anakim. 

We  found  two  dear  missionaries  there  who  are  working 


MISSION  HOUSE,  HEBRON. 

in  sympathy  with  the  Alliance,  and  are  members  of  the 
"Bible  Correspondence  School,"  in  New  York.  They  are 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Murray,  worthy  Scotch  people,  and  are  doing 
an  excellent  work,  and  have  much  access  to  the  Mos- 
lems, often  being  permitted  to  sit  for  hours  in  the  vine- 
yards and  read  to  them  the  Word  of  God.     We  also  had  the 


94 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


great  privilege  of  assisting  in  the  opening  of  a  new  Mildmay 
Mission  and  Hospital  at  Hebron  under  the  cliarge  of  Mrs. 
Bowie  of  England  and  other  workers  ;  and  it  was  very  sweet 
to  sit  th(!r(>  with  a  little  company  of  about  a  dozen,  and  read 
the  old  story  of  Caleb  and  Hebron,  and  claim  a  great  blessing 
upon  the  work. 

There  seems  to  be  a  l)etter  opening  in  Hebron  at  this  time 
than  in  any  i)art  of  Palestine.  One  reason  is,  jnerhaps,  that 
the  Greeks  and  Latins  have  never  got  into  the  place,  and  the 
Christians  are  not  (mis)  represented  by  them  as  they  are  in 
so  many  other  ])laces. 

On  our  way  home  we  stopped  at  Bethlehem,  looked  at  the 
Shepherd's  Plains,  the  well  of  David,  and  the  little  limestone 
cave  in  the  Church  of  the  Nativity,  Avhich  is  probably  the 
birthplace  of  the  Lord  of  glory.  At  least  it  spoke  to  our 
heart,  in  the  Sj  .rit,  as  Calvary  and  Bethany  had  done,  and 
we  are  glad  it  was  the  last  holy  place  we  should  have  time  to 
see  in  Palestine,  for  it  left,  as  our  last  thought— that  which 
Avas  our  Christmas  message,  and  has  become  more  and  more 
the  sweet  watchword  of  our  simple  life—"  as  a  httle  child." 

How  much  there  is  in  this  wondrous  land  that  speaks  of 
the  Master  and  the  Bible  !  The  little  sparrows  are  still  here, 
of  which  He  taught.  The  birds  of  the  air  are  here  that  one 
can  still  see  devouring  the  seed  as  it  falls  by  the  wayside. 
The  flowers  are  everywhere,  and  they  grow  without  care 
where  nothing  else  will  live.  The  children  are  still  sitting  in 
the  market  place  ;  and  how  one  little  fellow  on  Olivet  did  re- 
mind us  of  the  Master's  words,  "We  have  piped  unto  you, 


I 


INDS. 

ew  Mildmay 
irge  of  Mrs. 
s  very  sweet 
^n,  and  read 
reat  blessing 

1  at  this  time 

erhaps,  that 

aco,  and  the 

they  are  in 

•oked  at  the 
lie  limestone 
probably  the 
poke  to  our 
id  done,  and 
have  time  to 
—that  which 
re  and  more 
ittle  child." 
at  speaks  of 
re  still  here, 
lere  that  one 
the  wayside, 
vithou't  care 
till  sitting  in 
•livet  did  re- 
d  unto  you, 


/>.ns  y.v  /'.//. /•;.s/7.\7-; 


95 


and  y<'  have  not  danced  ;  wo  have  mom-ncd  unto  you,  and  ye 
have  not  lamented."  The  little  Arab  wanted  backshish  very 
ba<lly.     He  began  by  asking  it  directly,  and  my  friend,  who 


■>^2v    ^tWl   'am\  If 


m^^^lm^^^. 


BETHLEHEM  FROM  THE  EAST. 


could  speak  Arabic,  tried  to  reason  him  out  of  it  as  a  bad 
thing  for  good  boys.  He  became  very  good  all  at  once  and 
followed  us  half  an  hour  without  opening  his  mouth.     But, 


( 


96  L.lh'(./:h'   OITLOOKS  OX  M/SS/OX.lh'V  J..IXDS. 

as  lio  Hiiw  this  did  not  bring  any  backshish,  h«!  began  to  "  pipe  " 
to  us.  Ho  went  througli  the  gi-eatt'st  lot  of  tricks  and  antics, 
laughing,  dancing,  and  telling  us  how  ho  loved  us.  This  was 
all  unavailing.  And  then  he  b(>gan  to  mourn  to  us  ;  ho 
showed  us  hifi  ragged  clothes,  ho  wailed  most  piteously,  h(^ 
entreated,  implored,  until  at  last,  after  ho  had  walked  half 
round  01iv(>t,  wo  relented,  and  we  gave  him  a  little  coin,  not 
mu<di,  but  enough  to  send  him  liom(>  happy,  and,  as  our 
friend  said—  spoiled. 

Hero  are  men  plowing  in  the  field,  contrary  t(^  the 
Mosaic  law,  with  a  donkey  and  a  heifer.  And  they  all  liold 
the  little  crooked  stick  of  a  plow  with  one  lutiid,  and  the 
oxgoad  with  the  other.  It  is  just  as  Ho  said,  "  He  that  put- 
teth  his  lidiid  to  the  plow  and  looketh  l)ack  is  not  tit  for 
the  kingdom  of  God."  There  is  only  one  hand  at  it,  and  it 
must  uever  lot  go  or  the  woi-k  is  ruined. 

Here  are  the  two  women  grinding  at  the  mill,  for  the  big  . 
millstones  are  too  heavy  for  one.  One  pushes  the  crank  halt 
round,  and  then  the  other  pushes  it  the  rest  of  the  circle. 
Here  are  the  sandals,  the  waterskins,  the  little  gate,  called 
Needle's  Eye,  and  a  thousand  things  that  bring  one  into  the 
very  atmosphere  and  native  element  of  the  Bible,  and  make 
one  feel  what  a  marvelous  teacher  Jesus  was,  to  fit  His  para- 
bles and  discourses  so  wondrously  into  the  conuuon  life  of 
the  people,  and  make  them  alive  with  the  images  which  ex- 
pressed their  daily  life  and  experience. 

What  is  the  actual  condition  of  Jerusalem  and  Palestine, 
and  the  so-called  Jewish  movement  ?    There  is  no  doubt 


Lvns. 

nto  "pipo" 

1  and  iiutics, 
s.  This  was 
to  us  ;  lio 
)itoously,  lie 
walked  lialf 
;le  coin,  not 
and,  as  our 

•ary  to  the 
hoy  all  hold 
id,  and  tlm 
lo  that  put- 
}  not  lit  for 
at  it,  and  it 

I,  for  the  big  . 
B  crank  hak" 
f  the  circle, 
gate,  called 
)ne  into  the 
},  and  make 
fit  His  para- 
niion  life  of 
)S  which  ex- 

id  Palestine, 
is  no  doubt 


/>.i }s  /.v  /'. //./;.s//,\7f. 


97 


that  there  is  a  inovetnent,  a  forward  movement,  and  a  re- 
markable one.  Uf  coui'se,  compared  with  other  counti'ies, 
ralestin(!  is  yet,  in  many  respects,  a  disappointment  and  a 
desolation.  The  land  and  ev«'n  the  roads  are  still  cov«'red  with 
barren  rocks  and  desolati;  ruins.  But,  compa'-^d  with  itself 
a  quaiter  of  a  century  ago,  or  even  fifteen  years  ago  it  is 
making  extraordinary  progress. 

Tliere  is  now  a  railway  running  from  Jerusalem  to  Jaffa, 
and  three  more  are  under  way  in  Northern  Palestine.  Jerusa- 
lem is  a  city  of  nearly  70,000  people,  and  Nablous,— ancient 
Shechem~-100,oOO,  and  both  growing  rapidly.  Jaffa,  Haiffa, 
Nazareth,  Hebron,  Beyrut,  Damascus,  are  all  prosperous. 
Inside  of  five  years,  the  great  mail  route  from  P:ngland  to  In- 
dia will  most  probably  pass  through  Northern  Palestine,  and 
will  save  over  seven  days  on  the  time  now  occupied  by  the 
Sue/  Canal.  We  were  not  able  to  visit  Galilee,  but  were  told 
by  gentlemen  just  from  there  that  it  is  in  every  way  far  in  ad- 
vance of  Southern  Palestine,  and  most  of  the  soil  good  and 
productive.  The  Jewish  colonies  have  been  most  successful, 
and  the  foreign  capital  and  enterprise  that  have  been  invest- 
ed in  the  country  have  paid  well,  where  wisely  directed. 

What  about  the  Jewish  movement  ?  Undoubtedly  it  is 
making  all  the  progress  it  can.  There  are  40,00o  Jews,  at 
least,  in  Jerusalem,  several  thousand  in  Tiberias,  and  a  good 
m  ny  in  the  colonies  and  at  other  points.  There  would  have 
been  far  more  if  they  had  been  allowed.  Just  after  the 
Russian  persecution  they  began  to  arrive  in  whole  shiploads. 
The  Turks  and  others  at  Jerusalem  became  alarmed  and  sent 


9» 


J.ARcr.K   Ol'TI.OOKS  OS  MI.^^IOSARY  I.AXPS, 


a  |»elinon  to  the  SuUan,  ami  tho  whole  movoment  was 
i^wpped,  ami  no  rnoi'e  Jews  jxTmif  ted  to  land.  Thin,  |)oilia|»s, 
wfitf  p/'  'deal ill,  as  such  rniml"* '-^  would  have  hroiight 
plagiu' jiiid  starvation  if  they  had  <'«>iitiniu'd.  But  they  aro 
still  coiniiig  in,  more  '|ui(>tly. 

Tho  Sultan  has  hitely  passed  a  tirniiui  forhidding  Jinvs  to 
huy  any  nuuv  propei-ty  in  Palestine.  Hut  this  cannot  last. 
There  was  nuich  destitution  among  the  Jews  in  Jerusalem  a 
year  ago,  and  tliere  still  is  among  some  of  the  ])oorer  classes ; 
hut  many  of  them  are  engaged  in  industry  and  trades,  and 
whole  streets  are  occupied  with  their  shops.  There  is  also 
a  v(>ry  large  fund  contrihuted  hy  Jews  in  all  j)arts  of  the 
woi'ld  for  tlieir  jmor  hrethren  in  Palestine. 

What  are  \\w  ])i'ospects  of  Christian  work  among  them  ? 
Much  of  the  Christian  work  in  Palestine  is  among  the  Mos- 
lems and  Greeks,  and  the  prospects  among  the  former  are 
more  hopeful  than  in  any  other  land.  But  there  is  also  much 
good  work  among  the  Jews,  and  some  result. 

We  talked  with  a  very  earnest  yoimg  Hebrew  at  one  of 
the  meetings,  who  was  just  about  ready  to  confess  Christ, 
and  seemed  most  sincere  and  intelligent.  One  of  the  mis- 
sionaries speaks  of  a  movement  even  among  the  Rabbis.  At 
least  the  door  is  open  to  give  them  the  message,  and  this  is 
our  business,— the  rest  is  the  Lord's. 

L  pon  the  whole,  wo  are  much  more  favorably  impressed 
with  Palestine,  with  the  spirit  of  the  workers,  and  with  the 
prospects  of  Christian  work  there  than  we  expected  to  *>'. 
We  looked  for  greater  desolation  than  we  found,  and  \vt. 


r..ixns. 

lovement  was 

This,  |)»>rhMi>s, 

havt'   hrouKht 

But  tlioy  are 

iddiug  Jews  to 
s  cannot  last, 
n  JcriiHalcMn  a 
)()orer  classes ; 
1(1  trades,  and 
There  is  also 
1  parts  of  the 

among  them  ? 
long  the  Mos- 
he  former  are 
e  is  also  much 

rew  at  one  of 
onfess  Christ, 
e  of  the  mis- 
e  Rabbis.  At 
;e,  and  this  is 

ibly  impressed 

and  with  the 

icpected  to  bo. 

bund,  'tnd  we 


n.ns  fx  r.iLiiSr/XE. 


99 


found  much  greater  signs  of  life  and  progress  than  we  ex- 
pected. 

Let  us  pray  mightily  for  tlH>  breaking  of  the  Turkish 
yoke,  the  influx  of  a  new  population,  and  the  i)reparati(.u  of 
the  way  for  the  return  of  the  best  classes  of  the  Jewish  i)eo- 
ple,  the  true  "Kings  of  the  p:ast." 

And,  above  all,  let  us  plead  for  *'  the  Spirit  of  grace  and 


POOL  OF  DAVID,   HEBRON. 

supplication  to  be  poured  out  upon  the  house  of  David  and 
the  inhabitants  of  Jerusalem,"  and  a  bap' ism  of  heavenly 
power  in  the  Holy  Ghost  on  all  who  labor  for  the  Jews. 

When  we  were  at  Hebron  they  showed  us  the  Pool  of 
David,  and  remarked  that  it  was  full  this  year,  and  there 
would  be  a  good  and  piosperous  year,  for  the  rains  had  been 
abundant,  and  the  crops  would  be  good.  The  Pool  of  David 
Avus  the  criterion  of  the  rainfall  and  prosperity  of  the 
country. 


.11  ■■  .    in    T-'t  - 


ICX)        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  O^^  MISSIONARY  LANDS, 

There  is  another  pool,— the  hlessed  Holy  Ghost,  0, 
when  that  is  full  in  every  heart,  and  every  mission  field,  the 
harvest  of  the  world  will  be  all  right.  That  is  the  need  of 
Jerusalem,  of  Palestine,  of  the  heathen  world,  of  the 
churches  and  land  at  home.  For  this,  let  us  cry  "until  the 
Spirit  be  poured  upon  us  from  on  high,  and  the  wildernesa 
be  a  fruitful  field,  and  the  fruitful  field  be  counted  for  a 
forest."    Isaiah  xxxii :  1"). 


ZION'S  AWAKING. 

Awake,  awake  ;  O  Zion, 

Arise,  Jerusalem ; 
Shake  olT  thy  chains  and  sackcloth. 

Put  on  thy  diadem. 
Thy  night  is  almost  over, 

Thy  dawning  draweth  near, 
Thy  day  of  Promise  basteth,— 

Thy  King  will  soon  appear. 

Long  hath  thy  midnight  lasted, 

Hard  hath  thy  bondage  been  ; 
Cruel  the  shame  and  anguish 

Thy  weeping  eyes  have  seen ; 
But  lift  thine  eyes,  O  Israel, 

Forget  thy  Wailing  Place  ; 
Once  more  thy  King  is  coming 

In  glory  and  in  grace. 

Thy  sons  are  crowding  to  thee, 

Thy  wastes  are  tilled  once  more, 
Thy  latter  rains  returning. 

As  in  the  days  of  yore  ; 
Thy  vineyards  and  thy  olives 

Once  more  the  mountains  crown. 
And  'neath  their  vine  and  flg-tree 

Once  more  thy  sons  sit  down. 


'}'  LANDS. 


/KDS  /.V  I'AI.rSTlXE. 


lOI 


Holy  Ghost.  0, 
mission  field,  the 
at  is  the  need  of 
I  world,  of  the 
us  cry  "until  the 
id  the  wilderness 
je  counted  for  a 


1, 


wn, 


y~rrz'sr"^^;m>" 


Once  more  the  grapes  of  Eschol 

In  Hebron's  vale  are  seen  ; 
Onoe  more  the  plain  of  Sharon 

Ih  clothed  in  ricliest  fjreen  ; 
The  orange  groves  of  Jaffa 

Hang  rich  with  harvests  rare, 
And  hill  and  valley  blossom 

With  flowers  sweet  and  fair. 

Thy  streets  and  walls  are  spreading 

With  many  a  structure  fair  ; 
Thy  thoroughfares  are  crowded 

With  tranic  t'verywhiM-e  ; 
Thy  limits  stretching  northward 

Fulfill  the  sacred  sign, 
And  soon  thy  walls  will  cover 

The  Prophet's  measuring  line. 

And  many  a  town  and  hamlet 

Is  growing  o'er  the  land, 
The  harbinger  of  progress. 

And  brighter  days  at  hand. 
And  many  a  little  circle 

Of  Israels  sons  has  come, 
And  In  thine  ancient  valleys 

11  as  found  a  prosperous  home. 

And  now  the  engine's  whistle 

Is  heard  on  Sharon's  plain, 
And  Judah's  mountains  echo 

The  rushing  railway  train. 
Yes,  and  o'er  Syrian  railways. 

They  tell  us  soon  will  ixmr 
The  trade  of  western  nations 

To  India's  distant  shore. 

The  messengers  of  Jestis 

Are  gathering  at  thy  gates, 

And  many  a  faithful  watchman 
In  Zlon  works  and  waits ; 


I 


I02 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

Once  more  from  Zion's  threshold 

The  stream  begins  to  How, 
Whose  deeper  floods  of  blessing 

To  all  the  lands  shall  go. 

From  many  a  crue'  nation 

Thy  suffering  children  flee, 
Not  knowing  God  is  planniug 

To  drive  them  home  to  thee. 
Thy  strange,  pathetic  story, 

Men  cannot  understand  ;— 
A  land  -  without  a  people,— 

A  race— without  a  land. 

But  Israel  shall  be  gathered. 

From  every  race  and  clime, 
On  Zion's  holy  mountain 

In  God's  apiKjinted  time. 
But  first,  the  chosen  "remnant" 

Their  Saviour  mutt  receive. 
The  "firrit  fruits"  of  the  nation 

The  gospel  must  believe. 

And  then,  from  Gentile  nations 

The  Lord  mutt  bring  His  own. 
And  "unto  ever  creature 

The  witness  be  made  known. 
Then,  He  hath  surely  promised. 

The  glorious  end  shall  come  ; 
The  King  shall  come  to  Zlon 

An  I  Israel  gather  home. 

We  hail  that  glorious  morning  ; 

All  things  in  « arth  and  sky, 
And  even  in  scatter*  d  Israel 

Proclaim  its  advent  nigh. 
Awake,  awake  ;  O  Zion, 

Thy  day  begins  to  dawn  ! 
Lord,  haste  its  glad  appearing,-- 

Help  us  to  speed  it  on. 


VIII. 

UNDER  THE  SHADOW  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


ALTOGETHER  we  have  spent  a  week  in  Egypt,  and  al- 
jr\^  thongh  yet  it  has  been  mucli  broken,  it  has  been 
enough  to  give  a  very  vivid,  and  perhaps  fairly  correct, 
impression  of  tliis  oldest  country  of  the  world.  Three  days 
have  been  spent  in  Cairo—which  is  not  only  the  centre  and 
capital  of  Elgypt,  but,  in  a  sense,  a  miniature  of  the  world, 
for  almost  all  nations  and  religions  are  represented  in  its  curi- 
ous and  motley  crowds.  Our  business  at  this  time  is  not 
sight-seeing,  but  the  higher  business  of  the  Master.  We  ha\  e 
had  time,  incidentally,  to  read  many  pages  from  that  mar- 
vellous book  of  time  and  history,  which  so  strangely  empha- 
sizes and  confirms  in  every  line  the  grander  Book  of  Ood, 

Cairo,  even  as  a  modern  city,  isi  ntensely  interesting.  It 
is  the  second  city  in  the  Turkish  Empire,  and  the  largest  in 
Africa.  It  has  a  population  of  nearly  400,000,  of  whom  L'O,- 
000  are  Europeans,  and  the  rest  are  Egyptians,  Abyssinians, 
Arabs,  Turks,  Syrians,  and  re])resentatives  of  almost  every 
country  in  Western  Asia  and  Northern  Africa.  The  streets 
around  the  new  hotels  and  the  ICsebekeyah  Gardens  are  quite 
modern  and  very  handsome.  Three  or  four  of  the  hotels  are 
very  fine,  large  and  fashionable;  and,  at  this  season,  are  over- 
crowded with  English  and  American  travellers. 

The  most  interesting  portion  of  Cairo  is  the  older  city, 
which  dates  back  to  the  time  of  the  Calii)hs  and  Saracens. 

10.1 


I04         LARGER  OVTLOOk'S  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


Its  streets  are  very  iian-ow,  crociked,  and  crowdcMl  with 
l){vzaars  of  every  kind,  where  every  ten  feet  an  Arah,  or  Turk, 
or  some  other  curious-lookin^i?  man  is  sitting  cross-legged  at  a 

little     hole    in    the 
wall,    like    a    little 
prairie   dog    at   his 
den.  and  surround- 
ed   hy    his    special 
wares.  Most  of  them 
hav(>     factory    and 
warehoiise  all  in  one 
small  space.   In  Cai- 
ro each  trade  has  a 
separated  )azaar,  and 
so  you  will  find  the 
shoemakers  and 
slipper   vendoi's  on 
one    alley    making 
and     selling     theii' 
wares  at  the  same 
time.  A  little  farth- 
er   on  is  the  hrass 
hazaar,    and    there 
you    can    find    the 
workers    in    hrass, 
making  and  chasing  with  their  fine  tools  their  vases, coffee  pots, 
candlesticks,  urns,  and  all  sorts  of  hrass  goods.  The  goldsmiths 
have  a  (luarter,  the  rug  and  carpet  dealers,  the  silk  emhroid- 


A  STREET  IN  CAIRO. 


AKDS. 

•owdod  Avitli 
ral),  or  Turk, 
is-l«^ggo(l  at  a 
liolc  in  the 
like    a    little 

(log    at  his 
lul  siui'ound- 

his  special 
Most  of  them 
factory  and 
Diiseallinone 
space.  InCai- 
1  trade  has  a 
tehazaai',  and 
I  will  find  the 
iiakers  and 
•  vendors  on 
dley  making 
selling     their 

at  the  same 
A  little  farth- 

is  the  hrass 
1-,  and  there 
3an  find  the 
srs  in  brass, 
es,  coffee  pots, 
'he  goldsmiths 
silk  einbi-oid- 


VNJ)/:A-    TIIIC  SHADOW  OF  -1  III-:  PYRAMIDS. 


105 


erers,  the  dealers  iu  prints,  etc.,  and  one's  eyes  are  dazzled 
and  bewildered  by  the  most  glaring  colors,  and  his  ears  al- 
most deafened  by  the  jargon  of  many  tongnes  and  ci-ies  of 
eager  vendors  and  bargain  makers.     If  you  want  to  pnichase 


CAIRO. 


anything  you  may  always  count  on  a  reduction  of  from  50  to 
<i()  per  cent.,  and  althougli  the  Arab  will  stoutly  assure  you 
that  he  has  only  one  price,  yet  the  sight  of  the  money,  and 
your  back  as  you  turn  to  go  away  and  really  mean  it,  always 
brings  him  to  terms,  and  he  consents  to  let  >jou  have  it  for 


Io6         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OiV  MLSSIONARV  LAXDS. 


that  low  price,  anrl  then  you  may  l)e  |»r('tty  suit",  in  most 
cases,  that  he  has  the  hest  of  the  har^ain. 

The  view  of  Cairo  from  the  citadel  i«  surpassingly  beauti- 
ful. The  elevatiou  is  quite  high  and  commands  a  wide  and 
striking  panorama.  All  around  you  is  historic  ground.  The 
balcony  on  which  you  are  standing  is  i)art  of  the  most  beau- 
tiful moscpie  in  Cairo,  perhaps  in  the  world,  the  Mosque  of 
Mohammed  Ali,  whose  graceful  minarets  and  magnificent 
dome  are  but  indexes  of  the  exquisite  interior,  surpassing,  we 
think,  except  only  in  its  windows,  the  interior  of  the  Moscpie 
of  Omar  at  Jerusalem. 

At  our  feet  Cairo  lies  spread,  a  brilliant  panorama  of 
houses,  streets,  minarets  and  domes.  More  than  three  hun- 
dred mosipies  are  in  the  picture,  a  forest  of  graceful  spires 
and  minarets,  imequalled  for  striking  beauty  of  design  by 
anything  in  the  world.  At  night  the  tops  of  many  of  these 
minarets  are  lighted  all  round  the  narrow  windows  which  sur- 
mount their  graceful  summits,  and  they  look  like  lamps 
suspended  from  the  skies.  To  the  left,  lies  old  Cairo.  Away 
in  the  distance  the  Nile  runs,  like  a  silver  thread,  as  the 
western  boundary  of  the  modern  city.  Across  the  Nile 
rise  the  massive  Pyramids,  about  five  miles  distant.  Fring- 
ing lines  of  acacias  and  palms  stretch  giacefully  along 
the  river,  and  fields  clothed  in  living  green  spi'ead  away  off  to 
the  right — down  to  the  luxuriant  Delta,---vvhile  beyond  the 
Pyramids  to  the  west,  the  sandhills  and  plains  of  the  desert 
stretch  out  till  they  meet  the  distant  horizon.. 

Looking  up  the  Nile  to  the  left  you  see  the  outlines 
of  other  pyramids,  sharply  cut  against  the  sky — about  ten  or 


lie,  in  most 

it<;ly  beauti- 
a  wide  and 
•ouiul.     Thn 
}  most  beau- 
Mosque  of 
magnificent 
[•passing,  we 
the  Mos(iue 

•anorama  of 
three  hun- 
iceful  spires 
>f  design  by 
any  of  these 
s  which  sur- 
like  lamps 
airo.  Away 
read,  as  the 
ss  the  Nile 
ant.  Fring- 
jfully  along 
away  off  to 
beyond  the 
f  the  desert 

the  outlines 
about  ten  or 


uxi)/:r  rm:  snAimw  of  thi:  rvRAMins. 


107 


twelve  miles  away.  Tliis  is  Sakkara,  the  site  of  ancient 
Memphis,  once  tlie  capital  of  lower  Egypt,  and  the  seat  of 
the  Pharaohs,  where  still  arc  to  be  seen  many  wonderful 
monum<'nts  and  tombs. 

You  are  looking  on  tlie  relics  of  fifty   centuries.       The 
well  beside  you  is  called  the  well  of  Joseph  ;   the  pyramids 


AN  ANCIENT  EGYPTIAN  TEMPLE. 


before  you  were  there  when  Abraham  entered  the  land. 
The  little  island  of  Roda,  yonder  beside  old  Cairo,  is  said  to 
be  the  place  where  Moses  was  found,  but  this  is  more  than 
doubtful.  But  yonder  ruins  at  Memphis  doubtless  mark  the 
site  of  the  splendid  court  where  he  might  have  reigned  ;  and 
had  he  not  refused  to  be  called  the  son  of  Pharaoh's  daugh- 


" 


io8 


LARCER  orr/.OOh'S  ox  MISS/O.WIRY  L.ixns. 


tor,  his  muniniy  W(»ul(l  probably  to-day  lie  foiin«l  in  tbo 
royal  company  that  stand  hi  a  row  in  the  famous  nuiscuni 
yonder  that  wo  visited  to-day.  WoU,  Moses  had  a  grander 
tomb  on  Nt'bo's  lu'ight,  and  he  stands  to-day  in  tlio  glory 
Avliirli  shone  out  for  a  jnonient  on  the  Transfiguration  night, 
Avitii  a  body  wliich  pool'  old  Rameses  would  give  all  Egy])t  to 
jtosaess  and  beside  wliich  all  the  obsolete  grandeur  of  Mem- 
l)his,  Thebes,  Zoan,  Luxor  and  Karnak  are  poor  and  con- 
temptible indeed. 

Of  course  we  went  to  the  Pyramids.  It  is  a  delightful 
drive  of  about  two  hours,  over  a  splendid  road  built  by  old 
Ismail  Pasha,  the  Khedive  Avho  gave  Egypt  nearly  all  her 
Avondorfnl  imi)i()vements  ;  and,  in  oi-der  to  do  it,  loaded  her 
with  the  enoi-mons  debt  that  has  brought  in  the  English 
army  of  occu])ation,  to  guarantee  the  interest  to  the  English 
capitalists  who  hold  the  bonds.  This  has  reduced  Egypt  to 
the  condition,  i)ractically,  of  a  British  jirovince.  It  is  said, 
the  old  Khedive,  after  visiting  Paris,  resolved  to  make  his  fair 
capital  a  second  Paris  ;  and  so  he  went  on  cutting  boulevards, 
laying  out  gardens,  planting  avenues,  building  ])alaces,  and 
rearing  mosques,  until  he  had  realized  his  fond  ambition,  and, 
at  the  same  time,  reduced  his  country  to  udnkrupt(-y,  as  the 
price  of  his  beautiful  dream. 

The  road  to  tht^  Pyramids  is  lined  with  fine  acacia  trees, 
and  thronged  with  long  lines  of  loaded  camels,  donkeys,  and 
women  coming  into  market.  The  camels  carry  more  than 
half  a  ton  on  their  immense  backs  ;  the  donkey,  about  one- 
sixth  of  the  size,  has  nearly  half  as  big  a  load.     After  seeing 


V7).S". 

11(1    in   tho 
s  iimscum 
a  grander 
11)0  glory 
tion  night, 
11  Egy])t  to 
V  of  Mem- 
r  and  con- 
del  iglitfnl 
•uilt  by  old 
rly  all  her 
loaded  lu'r 
lie  English 
;he  English 
fl  Egypt  to 
It  is  said, 
ake  his  fair 
)oulevaids, 
alaces,  and 
lition,  and, 
toy,  as  the 

nacia  trees, 
nkeys,  and. 
more  than 
about  one- 
fter  seeing 


r'NDF.K  Till':  siiAPow  or  i iii:  rvkWMins. 


109 


the  donkeyy  of  Palestine  and  Egypt,  we  shall  never  again  joke 
nor  Hiiflfer  others  to  joke  about  the  noble  ass. 

Our  horse  in  Palestine  stumbled  and  fell  on  us  ;  but  our 
donkey  in  Egyi)t  carried  us  about  Avilh  luxurious  ease,  and 
all  the  arts  of  horsemanship  wen;  (juitf*  unncc<'ssary.  You 
have  only  to  sit  in  the  c(Mnfoitable  saddle,  and  let  him  trot 
or  c£inter  along  as  he  jileases,  while  your  donkey  boy  runs 
behind,  goading  and  guiding  liim  whither  he  will.  He  always 
manages  to  go  right,  and  gets  through  i)laces  no  other  creat- 
ure ever  could.  He  can  go  on  stony  jjaths  or  mountain 
passes,  or  crowded  thoroughfares,  or  narrow  passages,  with 
perfect  coolness  and  safety  ;  and  stands  with  a  patience, 
which  many  a  Christian  might  well  imitate,  hardships  and 
cruelties  which  have  often  made  us  feel  ashamed  of  the 
master  and  jiroud  of  the  soulless  hrute.  They  beat  him, 
sometimes  they  half  starve  him,  tliey  load  him  down  till  his 
knees  fairly  tremble,  and  he  just  goes  on  his  way  fulfilling 
his  useful  course  with  a  i)atience  worthy  of  a  higher  nature. 
Some  one  in  Palestine  asked  an  Arab  how  long  a  donkey 
would  live.  "If  you  feed  him,"  replied  the  Arab,  "  he  will 
live  forever."  One  would  think  so,  when  you  see  how  long 
they  live  with  their  present  treatment.  No  Moslem  nor 
Arab  ever  feels  insulted  when  you  call  him  an  ass.  You  can 
hardly  pay  him  a  higher  compliment. 

But  there  is  another  burden  bearer  in  the  train.  It  is  the 
Egyptian  woman.  Everywhere  you  can  see  her  with  her  big 
basket  .or  earthen  pitcher  on  her  head,  walking  erect  as  a 
statue,  and  carrying  it  without  a  quiver,  and  without  even 


no 


LARCEK  Ol'TLOOKS  OX  MlSSfOXARY  /..tXPS. 


w 


touching  it  with  one  of  licr  lingi'is.  Wo  saw  ji  woman  yes- 
tenhiy  trying  to  take  up  a  hurdi-n  wliich  sho  could  not  Hft  to 
licr  licad,  but  liad  to  get  a  nuui  to  lielpher  to  load  it  up  ;  hut, 
when  onc(>  she  got  it  on  the  littlo  cushion  upon  thu  crown  of 
her  head,  she  started  olT  as  ciisily  as  if  sht>  liad  only  an  ostrich 
feather  there. 

Most  of  their  faces  are  coveied,  except  Ine  eyes  and 
brow,  and  a  great  many  wear  a  hideous  brass  ornament  be- 
tween their  eyes,  that  gives  them  an  outlandish  exjjression. 
The  one  thing  lacking  in  all  these  scenes  is  the  face  and  pres- 
ence of  a  true  woman.  One  sees  the  dear  children  every- 
Avhere,  in  all  their  simplicity,  fi-eedom  and  real  beauty,  but 
we  look  and  long  in  vain  for  the  women  we  ai'c  accustomed 
to  see  in  our  Christian  civilization.  Woman  is  left  out  of 
oriental  society,  and  life  is  withered  and  blighted  by  the  un- 
natural omission.  The  higher  classes  are  shut  away  in  idle, 
luxurious  isolation  ;  the  lower  are  almost  beasts  of  burvlen  for 
their  lords  and  mastei-s.  The  softening,  refining,  elevating 
influence  of  woman's  society  is  wholly  lost. 

Some  of  the  missionaries  told  us  what  a  surprise  it  was 
when  they  invited  Moslem  gentlemen  in  to  spend  a  social 
evening,  to  find  they  could  sit  and  talk  on  social  terms  with 
women.  It  was  to  them  a  new,  and,  we  are  glad  to  believe, 
to  many  a  delightful  world,  and  gave  them  an  attractive  view 
of  the  sweet,  human  side  of  Christianity.  Little  does  w^oman 
know  what  she  owes  to  Christianity,  and  little  does  man 
realize  how  much  w^oman's  elevation  has  Senefited  him,  and 
lifted  up  his  life  and  happiness. 


I.\7)S. 

woman  yes- 
Id  not  lift  to 
:1  it  np  ;  but, 
[>e  crown  of 
ly  an  ostrich 

lie  (ivcs  and 
rnamcnt  bo- 

exprcssion. 
,ce  and  pios- 
dron  every- 
boauty,  but 
accustomed 

left  out  of 
1  by  the  un- 
vvay  in  idle, 
f  buivlen  for 
g,  elevating 

pi'ise  it  was 
■nd  a  social 
terms  with 
to  believe, 
ractive  view 
:loes  woman 
)  does  man 
}d  him,  and 


a: 

> 

u 

I 

H 


S 
< 
cc 


I 


Immmn  ijiMHii»in-.'aii»iiw 


111 


U 

I 

^- 

o 
z 
< 

1) 
a 

s 
< 


UJ 

I 


rxn/:K  rm:  sii.inow  of  the  rvK.iMnis. 


I II 


Olio  boautinil  picture  we  must  give.  It  was  on  that  Hame 
road  to  the  I  'y nvinids  Among  many  others,  wo  met  a  woman 
carrying  a  great  load  upon  lier  liead.  But  in  her  arms  nho 
also  lu'Id  a  babe  ;  and  we  noticed  that  she  liad  hotli  her  arms 
about  lier  child,  and  trusted  the  burden  to  her  skill  and 
strength,  but  held  \wv  ])recious  child  in  a  mother's  loving 
arms.  It  was  the  mother  heart  triumphing  over  even  the 
thought  of  her  material  interest.  It  reminded  us  of  Him 
who  carries  the  government  upon  His  shoulders,  but  He  holds 
His  children  in  His  arms  ! 

But  we  have  got  to  the  Pyramids.     Yes,  there  they  are  ! 

"These  mighty  Pyramids  of  Htone, 

That  wedgelike  ch'ave  the  deMert  aire, 
When  nearer  seen  and  better  known 
Are  hut  gigantic  steps  of  stairs. " 

But  what  enormous  stairs  they  are  !  Four  hundred  and 
seventy  feet  high,  and  twice  ns>  wide  at  the  base.  And  the 
steps  are  great  stone  Ijlocks,  about  a  yard  high,  so  that  you 
have  to  be  pulled  up  by  thi'ee  stout  Arabs,  and  coming  down, 
held  by  a  long  turban  tied  around  your  waist  to  keep  you 
from  falling  down  headforemost. 

We  n'jed  not  stay  to  give  their  history.  They  are  great 
tombs  built  by  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  Egyptian  kings — 
Cheops — before  the  time  of  Abraham.  The  interior  consists 
of  a  long  passage  downward,  for  a  while  at  an  angle  of  forty- 
five  degrees,  and  then  upward,  followed  by  a  level  passage, 
ending  at  last  in  a  lai-ge  gallery,  called  the  King's  Chamber, 
under  which  is  a  smaller  one  called  the  Queen's  Chamber. 


112         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  AUSSIONARY  LANDS. 

Here  were  found  the  sarcophagi  and  mummies.  Tlie  passages 
are  ventilated  by  air  shafts  from  above.  0,  what  a  waste  of 
toil  and  treasure  for  a  transient  tomb  ! 

In  keeping  with  this  was  the  skill  and  expense  bestowed 
upon  the  embalming  of  the  dead.  The  Egyptians  built  the 
houses  of  the  living  of  perishable  brick,  and  the  houses  of  tlie 
dead  of  enduring  granite.  Was  it  the  fear  of  death  that 
made  them  struggle  so  hard  to  resist  its  ravages  ?  Was  it 
the  idea  of  immortality  that  made  them  long  to  keep  the 
very  dust  from  perishing  ?  Or  was  it  their  strange  idea  that 
while  the  body  lasted,  the  spirit  continued  to  exist  in  Para- 
dise ;  but  if  the  earthly  frame  should  vanish,  the  spirit-life 
would  forever  fade  away  ?  Poor  things  !  how  vain  their  tre- 
mendous fight  with  death  !  How  ghastly  and  ineffectual  the 
triumphs  of  all  their  splendid  mortuary  architecture  !  How 
easily  faith  leaps  at  a  bound  from  yonder  open  grave  at  Jeru- 
salem into  the  glorious  reality  which  all  these  mummies, 
tombs  an  1  pyramids  only  shadowed  faintly  and  afar  off  ! 
Oh,  how  we  thank  Him  who  "has  abolished  death  and 
brought  life  and  immortality  to  light  through  the  Gospel." 

Many  of  our  readers  know  that  a  very  elaborate  effort 
has  been  made  by  such  writers  as  Piazzi  Smith,  Dr.  Seiss, 
and  others,  to  prove  that  the  internal  passages  and  chambers 
of  the  great  Pyramid  are  prophetic  of  the  future  ages.  They 
have  found  in  the  scales  of  measurement,  and  the  relative  di- 
mensions of  the  passages,  and  many  other  most  interesting 
particulars,  a  sort  of  diagram  of  the  course  of  time  up  to  the 
Lord's  return;  also  they  believe  that  the   "pillar    on  the 


HHIMMHipi 


LANDS. 

.     Tlie  passages 
^'hat  a  waste  of 

pense  bestowed 
ptiaiis  built  tbe 
he  houses  of  tlie 
•  of  death  that 
vages  ?  Was  it 
)ng  to  keep  the 
trange  idea  that 
>  exist  in  Para- 
1,  the  spirit-Ufe 
.V  vaiu  their  tre- 
1  ineffectual  the 
litecture  !  How 
sn  grave  at  Jeru- 
hese  mummies, 
Y  and  afar  off ! 
shed  death  and 
1  the  Gospel." 
elaborate  eifort 
mith,  Dr.  Seiss, 
BS  and  chambers 
;ure  ages.  They 
i  the  relative  di- 
most  interesting 
f  time  up  to  the 
"pillai*   on  the 


UNDER    THE  SHADOW  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS.  113 

border  of  Egypt,"  mentioned  by  Isaiah,  is  nothing  nlse  than 
this  old  Pyramid  of  Ghizeh. 

The  argument  is  certainly  very  plausible,  and  the  coinci- 
dences strange;  but  to  many  it  is  probably  somewhat  strained, 
and,  at  best,  a  system  of  very  extraordinary  correspondences. 
Happily,  we  have  "a  more  sure  word  of  i)rophecy  "'  than  old 
Pharaoh's  necropolis. 

The  Arabs,  donkeys  and  camels  were  almost  as  interest- 
ing to  us  as  the  Pyramids.  They  (the  Arabs)  had  a  great 
fight  for  half  a  piastre,  which  one  had  failed  properly  to  share 
with  the  others.  There  were  screams  and  blows,  and,  for  a 
while,  nearly  all  the  crowd  took  a  hand  in  it,  but  nobody  was, 
hurt.     The  coin  in  question  is  only  about  three  cents. 

The  Sphinx  is  wonderful.  It  stands  ({uite  near  the  great 
Pyramid.  The  actual  view  of  that  face  of  stone  is  very 
touching.  The  expression  of  calm  repose  and  gentleness 
is  not  imaginary.  It  seems  Hke  old  Father  Time,  looking 
down  on  one  hundred  and  fifty  generations  of  his  children, 
and  smiling  at 

"Their  clalmH  of  long  descent" 

What  children  we  all  are  under  the  shadow  of  that  face 
of  nearly  five  thousand  years  ago  !  But  even  thou,  0  ancient 
Sphinx,  art  but  a  shadow  of  the  "Rock  of  Ages,'— that 
Blessed  One  who  is  "the  same  yesterday,  and  to-day,  and  for- 
ever,' with  whom  "  a  thousand  years  are  as  one  day,  and 
one  day  as  a  thousand  years,"  and  whose  heart  has  been 
"our  dwelHng-place  in  all  generations." 

The  most  wonderful  Museum  in  the  world  now  stands 


114 


LARGER  OUTLOOK'S  ON  ?TISSIONARY  LANDS. 


midway  between  the  Pyramids  and  Cairo.  It  is  the  famous 
Museum  of  Egyptian  antiquities,  establislied  through  the 
labors  and  researches  of  Mariette,  Brugsch  Bey,  and  other 
Egyptologists,  and  contains  nearly  all  the  best  results  of  the 
explorations  and  discoveries  of  the  past  few  years.  It  was 
formerly  at  Bulak,  but  has  now  been  removed  to  the  old 
pabce  of  the  Khedive.  The  building  is  most  magnificent, 
and  the  gardens  luxuriant  beyond  description. 

One  gets  some  idea,  from  looking  at  this  palace  and 
grounds,  of  the  selfish  indulgence  of  oriental  despots. 
Grottoes,  fountains,  walks,  bridges,  hanging  gardens,  sum- 
mer houses,  trees,  shrubs,  flowers  of  every  kind,  make  it  like 
a  dream  of  beauty.  The  very  walks,  for  miles,  are  mosaics  of 
inlaid  stones,  and  the  garden  walls  are  built  of  stucco  and 
coral,  with  niches  in  the  masonry  for  the  trees  and  flowers, 
and  all  so  wound  together  as  to  look  like  natural  rocks  and 
pine -covered  terraces  of  tropical  luxuriance.  And  all  this 
was  supplied  by  the  toil  and  suffering  of  a  whole  nation  for 
the  indulgence  of  one  selfish  man,  and,  perhaps,  three  or  four 
hundred  poor  women,  whom  he  held  in  luxurious  slavery  in 
this  and  half  a  dozen  other  similar  palaces.  What  a  farce  the 
government  of  this  world  is,  and  how  we  long  for  the  true 
King ! 

The  interior  of  the  palace  is  still  more  splendidly  deco- 
rated. But  it  is  now  put  to  a  better  use,  as  the  repository  of 
the  treasures  of  Egypt's  tombs.  The  only  defect  about  it  is 
the  lack  of  proper  i)rovision  in  case  of  fire.  A  single  hour 
might  destroy,  by  sudden  conflagration,  treasures  which  could 
not  be  bought  for  hundreds  of  millions. 


LANDS, 


UNDER   Tirr.   SHADOW  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


"5 


is  the  famous 
[  through  the 
5ey,  and  other 
results  of  the 
years.  It  was 
red  to  the  old 
i  magnificent, 

is  palace  and 
mtal  despots, 
[gardens,  sum- 
3,  make  it  like 
are  mosaics  of 
of  stucco  and 
9  and  flowers, 
iral  locks  and 
And  all  this 
lole  nation  for 
3,  three  or  four 
ous  slavery  in 
hat  a  farce  the 
y  for  the  true 

Dlendidly  deco- 
le  repository  of 
ect  about  it  is 
A  single  hour 
es  which  could 


We  were  informed  that  no  less  than  one  million  dollars 
we^e  offered  hy  some  parties  in  the  United  States  for  the 
privilege  of  exhibiting  the  mummy  of  old  Rameses  in  the 
United  States  for  a  short  time.  Of  course,  it  was  refused  ; 
and  many  millions  could  not  buy  it.    We  were  surprised  at 

the  great  number  of 
monuments  that  are 
preserved  from  the 
fourth  and  fifth  dynas  - 
ties, — long  before  the 
time  of  Abraham. 
The  amount  of  costly 
and  t  xquisite  jewelry 
found  on  the  mum 
mies,  and  preserved  in 
tbe  Museum,  shows 
how  advanced  the  fine 
arts  were  in  the  ear- 
liest periods. 

Of  course,  the  great 

object  of  our  interest, 

and  the  centre  of  at 

traction    to    all    the 

visitors,  wa^  the  great 

Central      Chamber 

where  the  royal  mummies  are  on  exhibition.     There  the 

centre  of  interest  was  the  great  Rameses  II.,  the  oppressor 

of  the  Israelites,  and  his  face  and  head  were  even  more  ex- 


RAM  eses  II. 


^\ 


Il6        I.ARGliR  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


pressive  of  character  and  forco  than  even  the  excellent 
photograph  that  most  of  us  have  seen.  There  was  ^his 
father  Scti,  and  most  of  his  successors  for  a  long  time,  with 
the  strange  exception  of  his  son  and  successor,  Meneptah,  the 
Pharaoh  of  the  Exodus.  Where  is  his  body  ?  Why  do  we 
not  have  his  mummy  ?  Will  it  yet  be  found,  or  is  it  in  the 
bottom  of  the  Red  Sea  'i  Strange,  the  i-evenges  of  history  and 
Providence  ! 

We  should  think  that  every  Jew  would  like  to  go  and 
look  at  that  hdlpless  face.  The  man  that  cast  little  Mosea 
into  the  Nile,  and  ground  the  lives  of  three  millions  of  people 
to  the  dust,  is  not  terrible  now.  The  humblest  Hebrew  caa 
look  in  his  face  and  laugh  him  to  scorn.  So  will  all  our  terri- 
ble foes  be  some  day.     Only  wait ! 

The  story  of  the  finding  of  these  mummies  was  very  won- 
derful, and  was  surely  one  of  those  providences  which  are  so 
strangely  making  the  ages  meet  in  the  last  age  of  time,  and 
causiuj^  the  recoi'ds  of  nature  to  confirm  God's  Holy  Word  in 
the  face  of  man's  proud  infidelity.     It  was  this  : 

Up  at  ancient  Thebes,  which  was  the  faA-^orite  capital  of 
old  Rameses,  they  had  his  tomb  and  the  tombs  of  many  of 
the  preceding  and  succeeding  kings,  and  there  was  no  doubt 
of  the  identification  ;  but  they  could  not  find  the  sarcophagus 
or  the  mummy.  All  the  tombs,  indeed,  were  empty.  They 
searched  in  vain,  and  it  seemed  as  if  the  mystery  woidd  never 
be  unsealed.  But,  one  day,  it  was  found  that  an  Arab  was 
selling  some  costly  relics  that  evidently  belonged  to  these 
tombs.      Mr.  Mariette,  one   of  the  leading  Egyptologists, 


\NDS. 

le  excellent 
cro  was  his 

• 

g  timo,  with 
eneptah,  the 
Why  do  we 
is  it  in  the 
f  history  and 

:e  to  go  and 
I  little  Mose& 
)ns  of  people 
Hebrew  can. 
all  our  terri- 

asvery  wou- 
which  are  bo 
3f  time,  and 
[oly  Word  in 

te  capital  of 
1  of  many  of 
'as  no  doubt 
sarcophagus 
iipty.  They 
would  never 
an  Arab  was 
ged  to  these 
gyptologists. 


UNDER   THE  SHADOW  OF  THE  PYRAMIDS. 


117 


learned  of  it,  and  found  him  out.  A  large  sum  was  demanded 
for  the  secret— $2,500— and  it  was  instantly  granted  ;  and, 
indeed,  was  but  a  fraction  of  the  real  value— millions  would 
"be  given  to-day.  And  the  secret  was  divulged.  A  secret 
passage  was  found,  which  this  man  had  accidentally  discov- 
ered, leading  down  to  a  large  subterranean  <;hamber,  very 
plain  and  simple,  to  which,  in  a  time  of  threatened  war  and 
danger,  the  care-taker  of  the  tombs  had  removed  all  the  royal 
munmiies  for  safety.  And  there,  in  that  lone  gallery,  Ram- 
eses  and  his  family  of  kings  were  found  lying  in  silence  and 
obscurity,  waiting  God's  hour  for  them  to  come  forth  and 
attest  the  truth  of  His  ancient  story. 

No  wonder  that  the  great  Brugsch  Bey,  when  he  stood 
in  that  royal  chamber  of  the  silent  dead,  raised  his  hands  and 
said,  "Have  I  lived  to  see  this  day  if  " 

The  interest  and  profit  of  our  visit  to  this  Museum,  even 
for  one  brief  afternoon,  was  greatly  increased  by  the  presence 
of  a  friend  who  resides  in  Cairo,  one  of  the  American  mis- 
sionaries, who  had  given  much  intelligent  study  and  consid- 
erable research  to  this  most  interesting  field. 

One  of  our  most  interesting  and  memorable  visits  was  to 
the  great  Mohammedan  University  of  Cairo,  the  famous 
Mosque  of  El  Azhar.  It  is  the  largest  university  in  the  world, 
and  the  principal  Mohammedan  school. 

Of  course,  we  had  to  get  a  permit,  and  <;p  enter  the  sacred 
enclosure  with  sandaled  feet.  They  used  to  require  the  Chris- 
tians to  put  off  thoir  shoes,  but  now,  by  a  sort  of  whitewash- 
ing process,  they  put  on  a  ])air  of  holy  sandals  over  your  shoes 
— foi-  the  consideration  of  a  few  piastres. 


Il8        LARCUR  orTLOOKS  ON  AriSSrON.IR)    f  .'1NDS. 

We  have  seldom  been  more  touched  than  by  the  scene  in 
this  old  Mosque.  In  a  vast  enclosure,  filled  with  pillars  and 
corridors,  were  scores  of  groups  like  the  classes  of  a  great 
Sunday  School,  all  sitting  crosslegged  on  the  door,  each  group 
gathered  round  a  teacher,  who  was  sitting'  among  them  and 
teaching  them  with  all  his  might  something  from  the  Koran. 
They  are  said  to  teach  everything  here  ;  not  only  Moslemism 
and  the  Koran,  but  also  other  branches. 

What  touched  us  was  the  intense  earnestness  of  both 
teachers  and  students.     The  adults  v/ere  all  men,  and  they 
seemed  to  be  men  of  one  idea.     Many  of  the  teachers  wore 
the  green  turban,  showing  that  they  had  been  to  Mecca  and 
had  accomplished  the  Pilgrimage    so    sacred  to  Moslems. 
There  are  said  to  be  10,000  to  12,o00  students  in  attendance 
always  at  this  school,  almost  all  preparing  for  missionary 
work  throughout  the  world.     We  saw  no  such  number  as 
this,  but  there  were  a  good  many  hundred.  We  saw  enough, 
however,  to  let  us  realize  the  intense  earnestness  and  power 
of  this  system  based  on  one  book,  and  interweaving  that  book 
with  all  their  higher  and  lower  education,  and  making  it  the 
chief  text  book  in  all  their  schools.     If  Christianity  had 
treated  the  Bible  as  Mohammedanism  the  Koran,  it  would 
long  ago  have  become  the  religion  of  the  world. 

There  is  one  thing  of  which  we  need  have  no  doubt— and 
that  is,  the  intense  and  entire  satisfaction  and  enthusiasm 
with  which  Moslems  regard  their  rehgion,  and  the  contempt 
with  which  they  regard  all  others.  They  look  upon  Christi- 
anity as  a  religion  from  which  tliey  have  taken  all  that  is 


'1NDS. 

the  scene  in 

I  pillars  and 
s  of  a  great 
[•,  each  group 
ig  them  and 
[1  the  Koran. 
r  Moslemism 

ness  of  both 
en,  and  they 
eachers  wore 
o  Mecca  and 
to  Moslems. 

II  attendance 
r  missionary 
h  number  as 
saw  enough, 
;s  and  power 
ing  that  book 
uaking  it  the 
istianity  had 
ran,  it  would 

o  doubt — and 
i  enthusiasm 
the  contempt 
upon  Christi- 
an all  that  la 


y^v.y>^fa^naaa^ 


120         LARGER  Ol'TI.OOKS  OX  MFSSrONARY  LANDS. 

worth  keeping,  and  have  addea  the  lugher  lovelation  of  Mo- 
liammed.  Tliey  have  heen  through  Christianity  and  got  be- 
yond it.  'J'liey  accept  Abraham,  Moses,  Christ,  hut  Moham- 
med is  beyond  them  all,  the  last  and  greatest  of  thi^  ])r()phet8. 
Our  dragoman  said  to  us  yesterday,  in  the  Moscpie  of  Mo- 
hanuued  Mi,  "They  teach  us  in  the  miiversity  that  (iod  is 
one,  only  one.  He  has  no  Father,  no  Mother,  no  Son."  And 
lie  looked  as  if  he  had  a  self-evident  truth. 

They  regard  all  Christians  as  believing  that  Mary  is  the 
Mother  of  God,  and  they  hate  it.  Nothing  has  so  hindered 
Christianity  in  the  world  and  in  the  East  as  the  absurd  cari- 
catures of  the  Roman  and  Greek  Churches. 

During  our  visit  to  Cairo  the  Roman  Carnival  was  ob- 
served. The  whole  day  was  given  n\)  to  processions  and  pan- 
tomimes, just  like  the  Mardi  (Iras  of  New  Orleans.  The 
Avhole  thing  was  a  lmrles(iue  and  a  farce.  But  everybody 
went  out  to  see  it,  and  the  day  was  a  public  holiday.  It  was 
considered  by  the  Moslems  as  the  beginning  of  the  Oiristian 
season  of  fasting  and  i.rayer,  and  the  missionaries  were  con- 
gratulated all  round  on  the  Christian  feast,  and  wishes  ex- 
tended to  them  for  a  year  of  blessing.  What  but  the  power 
of  God,  and  a  real  and  living  Christianity,  can  ever  meet  and 
counteract  this  awful  caricature  ! 

Unfortunately  too  many  of  our  English  and  American 
Christians  leave  an  influence  but  little  better.  But  few  of 
them  ever  find  out  the  missions  or  the  missionaries,  and 
their  influence  among  the  natives  reminds  one  of  the  prayer 
of  the  little  Sunday  Schoolgirl  in  Brooklyn,  one  night,  just  as 


l^DS. 


UNDER  THE  SHADOW  OF  THE  I'YRAMIDS. 


I  ,'I 


,ion  of  Mo- 
uld v^oi  be- 
lut  Moham- 
et ])r()pyiet9. 
(jiu"  of  Mo- 
:luii  (iod  is 
Son."   Aud 

Vlary  is  the 
so  hindered 
ibsurd  cari- 

val  was  ob- 
)ns  and  pan- 
leans.  The 
t  everybody 
lay.  It  was 
le  Christian 
(s  were  con- 
1  wishes  ex- 
t  the  power 
er  meet  and 

d  American 
But  few  of 
ouaries,  and 
F  the  prayer 
light,  just  as 


they  were  preparing  to  go  to  the  coimtry  for  tlie  summer 
vacation.  Slie  knelt  down  at  her  little  cot-side,  and  was 
lieard  to  say,  "Dood-bye,  l)()d,  wc's  goin'  to  the  country." 

But  there  is  a  most  excellent  missionary  work  being  done 
in  Kgypt. 

The  pleasantest  incident  of  our  visit  to  Cairo  was  our 
visit  to  the  American  Mission  coimected  with  the  United 
Presbyterian  Church  of  this  country.  We  were  most  cour- 
teously received,  and  foimd  tlu;  Mission  in  a  most  flourishing 
condition.  There  are  now  stations  in  all  the  f^gyptian  prov- 
inces, and  a  large  and  growing  work  is  going  forward. 
There  are  over  :?()(»  pupils  in  the  .school  in  Cairo,  and  nearly 
4.(MK»  communicants  in  all  Egypt.  There  are  a  few  Moham- 
medan converts,  but  the  work  is  chit^fly  among  the  Copts,  the 
old  National  Christian  Chuich  of  Egypt,  but  one  that  has 
more  degent>rated  than  perhajjs  any  of  the  oriental  churches. 
AVe  hear,  however,  of  important  changes  that  are  taking 
place,  and  some  look  forward  toward  reform. 

We  cannot  too  highly  express  our  api)reciation  of  the 
kindness  received  from  some  of  the  members  of  the  Mission- 
ary Home  in  Cairo,  and  oiu*  gratitude  to  God  for  the  work 
that  has  been  acconii)lished. 

But  little  work  is  done  by  any  other  Society.  The  Churcli 
Missionary  Society  of  England  lias  a  few  laborers.  And  yet, 
after  all,  the  Egyptian  nation  with  its  millions  of  Moslems 
has  been  but  lightly  touched,  and  we  need  to  pray  much  for 
Egypt. 

How  wonderfully  God  has  fulfilled  prophecy  in  this  old 


■I 


^^BSI^mKs-i^iiO^ 


m^" 


122       LARGER  Orri.OOKS  OX  MfSS/ON.lRY  f.ANPS. 

laud  1  It  is,  indeed,  "  the  basest  of  kingdoms,"  and  the  pres- 
ence of  English  soldiers  evcuywhero  makes  one  feel  how 
truly  God  has  remembertid  His  ancient  word  r(>apecting  it, 
and  held  it  in  a  place;  of  subjection  and  humiliation. 

But  there  is  hope  for  Egypt  yet,  in  the  same  prophetic 
Word.  The  plan  of  the  ages  has  linked  Egyi)t  with  Israel 
in  the  promises  of  the  Millennial  Age.  Lord,  hasten  that 
longed-for  day  1 


IVPS. 


nd  tho  pres- 

10  feci  how 

specting  it, 

»n. 

o  prophetic 

with  IsriK'l 

lastc'ii  that 


IX. 


ISMAILIA    TO    BOMBAY. 

AVPiRY  slow  and  tcnHous  railway  lido  of  soveii  hours, 
which,  according  to  tho  schedulo  time,  should  only 
havo  hoeu  three  hours  and  a  half,  took  us  from  Cairo 
to  Ismailia  ahout  one  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  at  five -we 
were  awakened  hastily  to  meet  our  steamer  for  India.  Our 
Aral)  attendant  had  promised  exuberantly,  tlu;  night  before, 
to  awake  us  an  hour  before  the  time  for  starting,  but  when 
the  morning  came,  he  forgot  to  call  us  until  tho  tender  was 
about  ready  to  start ;  and  we  got  a  gooil  illustration  of  the 
necessity  of  being  "  always  ready  "  for  the  Master's  call. 

Wo  were  glad  we  had  everything  packed  tht^  previous 
night  and  had  not  nuich  di-essing  to  do.  "VVo  found  tho 
"Oceana"  a  very  fine  boat,  (pn'tc  equal  to  car  best  Atlantic 
steamers.  Down  the  R<  '  a  slm  has  made  faster  time  than 
the  "Servia"  did,  attaining  about  375  miles  a  day. 

We  have  a  most  deiigiitful  party  of  passengers,  including 
quite  a  number  of  ministers  and  missiouari(?s  going  to  the 
East.  Every  mv  uing  at  ten  thej'o  is  a  daily  prayer-meeting, 
which  is  a  time  uf  refreshing,  and  there  is  less  drinking  than 
we  have  yet  seen  on  any  steamship. 

The  second  class  saloon  accommodation  is  sub'^<;uitially 

t»3 


124 


LARGER   OrTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LA jYDS. 


as  good  as  the  first  class  on  the  Atlantic  steamers.     Tliis  is 
not  true,  however,  of  niany  of  the  steamers. 

We  are  sorry,  in  one  sense,  that  we  have  to  leave  her  at 
Aden    and    take  a  smaller    steamer    for  Bombay,   as    the 

"Oceana"  goes  on 
direct  to  Culombo 
and  Australia.  But 
we  shall  keep  a  few 
of  our  passengers, 
who  are  going  also 
to  India,  and,  we 
doubt  not,  our  dear 
and  mindful  JMaster 
has  prepared  even 
better  things  for  us 
there.  His  good- 
ness to  us  in  this 
whole  voyage  is  be- 
yond the  power  of 
words  to  express. 
We  have  been  con- 
scious every  mo- 
ment of  a  cloud  of 
ceaseless  prayer  en- 
compassing us,  and  His  Presence  has  been  real,  restful 
and  comforting  as  never  before.  Truly  He  has  tra\elled 
with  us  all  the  way,  and  we  love  to  commend  Him  to 
lonely  hearts.      Like  a  little  child  we  go  on,  not  knowing 


AN  ARAB  DHOW. 


LAjXPS. 


ISMAFLIA     TO  IWMnAY. 


125 


mei's.     Tliis  is 

;o  leave  her  at 
nibay,  as  the 
?ana"  goes  on 
t  to  Colombo 
\.ustralia.  But 
iiall  keep  a  few 
Lir  passengei's, 
are  going  also 
iidia,  and,  we 
t  not,  our  dear 
nindful  ]\Iaster 
prepared  even 
■r  things  for  us 
;.  His  good- 
to  us  in  this 
e  voyage  is  be- 
[  the  power  of 
Is  to  express, 
have  been  con- 
is  every  mo- 
t  of  a  cloud  of 
iless  prayer  en- 
n  real,  restful 
s  has  tra\elled 
imend  Him  to 
,  not  knowing 


much  before,  and  we  find  all  the  way  prepared,  and  are  ever 
conscious  of  His  interposing  and  protecting  love. 

On  our  journey  in  Palestine  from  Jerusalem  to  Bethel  our 
horse  gave  a  sudden  spring,  and  the  next  moment  he  was 
down  on  his  side,  falling  on  our  right  leg.  It  seemed  inevit- 
able that  we  must  be  injured.  But  we  rose  and  walked  along 
awhile  to  get  our  joints  adjusted,  and  looked  up  to  Him  with 
thanks  and  trust,  aud  found,  that  beyond  a  little  sprain  in 
one  hand,  a  scratch  on  the  other  arm,  and  a  little  bruising  of 
the  muscles  of  the  leg,  we  were  not  injured  at  all,  and  even 
the  little  touch  of  pain  He  quite  took  away — in  a  little  while. 
Our  friend  urged  us  to  exchange  horses  and  let  him  take  ours  ; 
but  we  felt  it  would  really  be  distrust,  and  would  look  like 
depending  on  the  other  horse  rather  than  upon  God,  and  so 
we  simply  watched  our  pony  more  carefully,  and  kept  look- 
ing to  the  Lord^  and  got  through  the  day  delightfully. 

The  next  day,  as  we  were  driving  to  Hebron,  our  Arab 
driver  got  very  cold,  and  jumped  from  the  seat,  and  ran  be- 
hind the  carriage  awhile  to  get  warm.  The  carriage  blinds 
were  down,  and  we  did  not  see  him  or  know  exactly  what  he 
was  doing,  when,  suddenly,  we  heard  a  cry,  and  found  the 
wheel  had  gone  over  a  steep  embankment ;  the  carriage  was 
just  holding  by  the  axle,  which  was  fiat  on  the  ground.  We 
leaped  out  and  thanked  the  Lord  for  keeping  us  from  going 
over.  Then  we  helped  the  poor  fellow,  who  was  white  with 
fear,  to  draw  the  carriage  back  on  the  road  by  turning  the 
team  across  the  road,  and  pulling  hard  ;  and  we  went  on 
trusting  and  watching.     We  do  not  mean  at  all  to  encourage 


II 


''S^S^K' 


SSI'S 


126         LARGER   OUTLOOKS  OX  MrSSfOXARY  LAXDS, 

carelessness.  We  endeavor  to  be  wise  and  watchful,  but  all 
our  watching  cannot  anticipate  the  ten  thousand  perils  that 
are  ever  around  us,  and  it  is  so  blessed  to  know  and  con- 
stantly find  that  He  is,  indeed,  our  Keeper,  and  v-hal  He 
never  slumbers  nor  sleeps. 

We  find  the  sun  in  this  Eastern  world  has  a  strange  and 
dangerous  power.  Even  when  the  air  is  so  chilly  that  you 
have  to  keep  on  a  heavy  overcoat,  you  must  not  let  the  direct 
rays  of  the  sun  strike  your  head,  or  you  are  conscious  of  a 
very  curious  sensation,  and  would  soon  become  ill.  We  are 
fitted  out  with  pith  hats,  and  learn  to  use  white  umbi^llas 
The  promise  has  a  very  real  meaning:  "The  Ijord  if  thj 
Keeper  ;  the  Lord  is  thy  shade  on  thy  right  hand  ;  the  sun 
shall  not  smite  thee  by  day. "  The  Arabs  all  cover  their  heads, 
both  from  the  cold  and  heat.  Their  turbans  consist  of  a 
very  long  piece  of  muslin  folded  over  and  over  again,  and, 
although  they  look  so  hot,  they  really  shield  the  head  from  the 
sun,  and  keep  it  in  a  wholesome  perspiration.  In  the  cold- 
est weather  the  Arab's  feet  and  legs  are  usually  quite  bare ; 
but,  if  he  can  get  his  head  muffled  up,  he  feels  quite  com- 
fortable. 

How  the  customs  of  the  country  constantly  speak  to  us 
about  the  Bible  !  For  example,  riding  the  other  day  through 
the  crowded  streets  of  Cairo,  with  our  donkey  boy  running 
behind  us,  we  did  not  need  to  think  about  our  road,  so  long 
as  he  was  silent,  but  just  went  on  without  anxiety  ;  but 
when  we  heard  his  voice  we  knew  there  was  something  to  be 
done  —  either  a  turn  or  a  halt.     How  it  recalled  the  words : 


'  LAXDS. 

atchful,  but  all 
land  perils  that 
know  and  con- 
',  and  v,hal  He 

s  a  strange  and 
chilly  that  you 
ot  let  the  direct 
i  conscious  of  a 
ne  ill.  We  are 
hite  umbi'^llas 
he  liord  if  th^ 
hand  ;  the  sun 
ver  their  heads, 
QS  consist  of  a 
ver  again,  and, 
e  head  from  the 
1.  In  the  cold- 
ally  quite  hare ; 
3els  quite  com- 

bly  speak  to  us 
er  day  through 
By  boy  running 
r  road,  so  long 
b  anxiety  ;  but 
omething  to  be 
lied  the  words : 


ISM  AIL  [A    TO  DOM  DAY. 


127 


"Thou  shalt  hear  a  voice  behind  thee,  saying,  This  is  the 
way,  walk  ye  in  it,  when  ye  turn  to  the  right  hand  and  to  the 
left."  It  is  only  when  we  have  to  turn,  that  we  may  need  to 
hear  the  voice.  God  is  not  always  speaking  to  us,  but  we 
may  be  sure  we  shall  hear  it  when  we  come  to  the  crisis 


IRRIGATING  ON  THE  NILE. 

hours  of  life,  and  need  to  turn  round  or  take  any  serious  new 
step.  When  we  have  His  silence  and  peace,  let  us  go  on 
with  simple  trust  and  confidence.  Then  we  noticed  that  the 
voice  was  always  b^hind  us.  And  so  God  leads  us  and  speaks 
to  us  out  of  the  quiet  moments  of  recollection,  when  we  take 
time  to  hear  His  gentle  voice. 


128        LARCER  OUTLOOKS  ON  M/SS/ONARV  LANDS. 

The  skies  and  sunsets  of  this  land  are  wonderful.     The 
after  glow  that  follows  sunset  is  beautiful  and    glorious 
After  the  sun  goes  down  over  the  desert,  full-orbed  and  almost 
crimson-hued,  you  can  see  the  stars  in  the  zenith  in  a  few 
seconds.     Last  night  we  saw  the  first  star  less  than  three 
minutes  after  sunset.     And  then  begins,  on  the  horizon,  the 
most  beautiful  series  of  metamorphoses.       First,   there  ia 
usually  a  moderate  glow  in  the  East,  reaching  up,  perhaps, 
twenty  degrees  from  the  horizon,  and  rather  deeply  tinted 
in  amber  and  gold.     But  this  soon  fades,  and  in  the  west, 
right  over  the  place  where  the  sun  went  down,  there  hangs  a 
halo  of  many-tinted  glory  for  some  time,  changing  its  varied 
and  blended  hues,  from  pink  to  crimson,  lilac  and  gold,  and 
at  times  making  you  really  feel  that  you  are  gazing  at  some 
superb  illumination. 

The  other  night  in  Cairo,  more  than  an  hour  after  sun- 
set, when  it  was  perfectly  dark,  and  all  the  stars  were  out  ia 
every  part  of  the  sky  but  this,  the  fiery  cloud  hung  for  a 
long  time,  and  we  felt,  for  a  time,  that  there  must  be  a 
great  fire  in  the  city.  But  it  gradually  faded  away,  and  we 
knew  that  it  was  just  "the  after-glow."  Last  night,  over 
the  shores  of  the  Red  Sea  and  the  mountains  of  Abyssinia,  it 
lingered  until,  at  least,  three  hours  after  sunset,  making  one 
think  of  the  glory  that  followed  the  setting  of  the  Sun  of 
Righteousness,  and  the  light  that  is  shining  still  over  the 
place  where  He  died  and  rose  again,  and  ascended  to  shine  in 
other  skies,  until  He  shall  return  some  brighter  morning,  and 
we  shall  see  in  yonder  East  the  Aurora  of  the  Eternal  Dawn. 


clerful.  The 
id  glorious 
d  and  almost 
ith  in  a  few 
than  three 
horizon,  the 
:st,  there  is 
up,  perhaps, 
leeply  tinted 
in  the  west, 
here  hangs  a 
ng  its  varied 
nd  gold,  and 
zing  at  some 

ir  after  sun- 
j  were  out  ia 
I  hung  for  a 
•e  must  be  a 
way,  and  we 
t  night,  over 
Abyssinia,  it 
making  one 
f  the  Sun  of 
itill  over  the 
3d  to  shine  in 
morning,  and 
ternal  Dawn. 


ISMAILIA    TO   liOMllAY. 


129 


But  we  have  a  gladder,  grander  pleasure  even  than  this. 
We  have  just  been  permitted  to  see  the  beginning  of  the  skies 
of  the  southern  hemisphere,  and  the  beautiful  Southern 
Cross,  which  is  to  the  sailor  of  the  southern  seas  very  nuich 


ON  THE  SUEZ  CANAL, 

what  the  Pole  Star  is  to  the  navigator  of  the  north— the  Pole 
star  of  his  sky. 

To  us  it  was  the  much  more  beautiful  and  significant 
symbol  of  our  blessed  Redeemer.  All  nature  was  made  for 
Him  and  speaks  for  Him,  and,  surely,  the  four  crimson  stars 
which  form  this  celestial  cross  may  be  permitted  to  bear  wit- 


Mi 


130 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


iiess  to  Him  Avliom   His  own  disciples  have  so  little  made 
known  to  these  southern  lands. 

As  we,  on  the  Red  Sea,  watched  its  appearence  for  the 
first  time,  we  had  no  interpreter  but  the  voice  in  our  own 
heart.     The  hour  was  late,  the  passengers  were  asleep,  and 
we  seemed  to  feel  that  we  had  God  all  to  ourselves  on  this 
side  of  the  world  at  least,  for,  on  the  other,  our  blessed  Friday 
meeting  was  at  that  very  hour  going  on,  and  about  reaching 
its  close.     Up  to  this  time  we  had  been  too  far  north  to  see 
this  constellation.     But  now  we  felt  we  must  be  near  the 
])lace  of  its  appearing,  and  so  we  sat  upon  the  deck,  in  the 
balmy  air  that  floated  over  from  the  Arabian  plains,  and 
Avatched  the  south-eastern  sky,  as  star  after  star  that  we  had 
never  seen  before  slowly  rose  from  the  sea,  floated  over  a  low 
curve,  and  sank  again  into  the  sea  a  little  farther  west.     We 
need  not  tell  our  readers  that  the  stars  on  the  southern  hori- 
zon describe  a  very  short  course  till  they  disappear. 

At  last  a  cluster  appeared,  of  about  a  dozen,  out  of  which 
gradually  we  were  able  to  frame  a  cross,  by  picking  out  the 
brightest  and  not  seeing  the  others.  For  a  while  this  seemed 
to  us  to  be  the  famous  constellation.  But  it  appeared  too 
large,  the  stars  were  too  mixed  and  there  were  too  many 
stars  around  it  that  did  not  form  the  cross,  to  satisfy  us,  and 
we  waited  on  until  it  had  begun  to  fade  away  to  the  west. 

Then  there  came  another  c(jiistellation,  composed  mostly 
of  great  patches  of  nebute  brighter  than  the  milky  way,  and 
looking  like  a  great  procession  of  lamps  before  some  royal 
pageant.     And  then  there  began  to  rise  from  the  sea  three 


LANDS. 

SO  little  made 

arence  for  the 
ce  in  our  own 
3re  asleep,  and 
rselves  on  this 
blessed  Friday 
ibout  reaching 
ir  north  to  see 
st  be  near  the 
18  deck,  in  the 
ian  plains,  and 
:ar  that  we  had 
ated  over  a  low 
;her  west.     We 
)  southern  hori- 
)pear. 

m,  out  of  which 
picking  out  the 
nile  this  seemed 
it  appeared  too 
were  too  many 
)  satisfy  us,  and 
^  to  the  west, 
omposed  mostly 
milky  way,  and 
Eore  some  royal 
n  the  sea  three 


SSS^S^K^ 


ISMAILIA    TO  IIOMBAV 


131 


stars  of  ruby  tint,  that  formed  the  head  of  a  cross,  much 
smaller  than  the  first  we  had  seen,  and,  as  it  rose  and  rose, 
the  fourth  star  at  length  came  up  below,  and  lo  !  the  cross 
was  complete  ! 

There  could  bo  no  doubt  about  this  ;  it  was  the  tnie 
Cross— the  other  but  a  counterfeit,  that  had  gone  before.  It 
had  far  fewer  stars  in  it.  Indeed,  all  but  these  four  were 
smaller  stars  ;  these  were  of  the  first  magnitude.  The  figure 
was  almost  perfect.  The  right  hand  horizontal  bar  was  a 
little  higher  and  shorter  than  the  left,  but,  with  this  excep- 
tion, it  was  a  real  cross  ;  and,  as  it  rose  higher  and  higher,  it 
stood  out  with  bold  outline  and  brilliant  glory  against  the 
sky. 

It  was  but  a  fancy,  a  correspondence,  but  it  spoke  to  us 
of  much.  The  first  cross  lepresented  the  false  religions  that 
nave  gone  before  and  perplexed  and  deceived  mankind.  The 
nebulae  that  preceded  the  true  Cross  were  fine  illustrations 
of  the  light  of  proi)hecy  and  promise  that  ushered  in  the 
great  redemption.  And  the  ruby  stars  (as  the  astronomers 
tell  us  they  appear  in  the  telescope)  that  formed  that  simple 
cross  proclaimed  the  precious  blood  by  which  we  have  been 
redeemed,  and  the  plan  of  salvation  through  the  sacrifice  of 
Jesus,  that  bears  its  own  evidence  and  vindication  to  all  who 
are  willing  to  look  at  it  fairly. 

One  thing  more  we  noticed.  When  it  first  arose,  the 
cross  was  slanting,  as  if  ready  to  fall ;  but,  as  it  moved  on,  it 
grew  erect  and  passed  out  of  view  with  its  glorious  head  lifted 
up  to  heaven,  telling  surely  of  the  glorious  gospel  which  be- 


i'': 


132         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSLOXARY  LANDS. 

gan  ill  weakness,  but  is  marching  on  to  its  full  meridian 
glory,  when  "  the  head  that  once  was  crowned  with  thorns" 
shall  wear  the  glory  of  all  lands  and  ages. 

And  yet  once  more.  Looking  a  second  time  at  this  cluster 
of  stars,  wcuioticed  that  by  putting  together  the  smaller  stars, 
they  formed  a  second  cross  that  seemed  to  lie  back  of  the 
other,  and  in  a  horizontal  position.  How  it  spoke  to  us  of 
the  cross  Avhich  Christ  has  laid  down  at  our  feet  for  us  to 
take  up  and  carry  !  He  had  His  cross,  we  have  ours,  too  ; 
and  the  very  badge  of  discipleship  is  to  be  willing  to  carry  it 
gladly  for  His  dear  love. 

And  so  we  turned  away  from  the  glorious  sky,  willing  to 
be  numbered  among  the  star-gazers,  too,  if  through  these 
jewelled  windows  we  may  but  see  a  little  more  of  the  beauty 
of  our  wondrous  King,  in  His  crimson  Cross  and  His  coming 

Glory. 

It  was  two  o'clock.  A  blessed  company  were  just  retir- 
ing from  their  hallowed  meeting  in  the  Tabernacle,  at  C  P. 
M. ;  their  day  was  ending,  -and  ours  ?  And  we  lay  down  and 
slept  for  six  blessed  hours  within  the  arms  of  His  love,  and 
prayers  of  His  people,  and  the  very  curtains  of  His  holy  hab- 
itation. And  when  the  morning  dawned  our  vision  of  the 
night  before  had  become  a  little  song,  which  we  give  to  our 
readers  on  another  page. 

We  have  some  comic  things,  too,  and  the  Lord  lets 
us  have  an  innocent  laugh,  many  a  time.  While  we  were 
lying  at  anchor  for  half-an-hour  in  Suez  to  receive  the  mails- 
and  some  other  things,  a  lot  of  Arabs  came  on  board  with 


:.ir-nfniin "' 


tXDS. 

ull  meridian 
with  thorns" 

it  this  cluster 
inialler  stars, 
hack  of  the 
oke  to  us  of 
.^et  for  us  to 
ve  ours,  too  ; 
iig  to  carry  it 

ky,  willing  to 
hrough  these 
of  the  l)eauty 
(I  His  crmiing 

■re  just  retir- 
•nacle,  at  C  P. 
lay  down  and 
His  love,  and 
His  holy  hah- 
vision  of  tlie 
e  give  to  our 

[;he  Lord  lets 
^hile  we  were 
;eive  the  maili* 
on  hoard  with 


JSA/.I//./.1    JO  nOMJl.lY. 


133 


their  various  wares.  Among  them  was  a  conjuror,  who 
seemed  to  he  in  the  special  employment  of  the  devil.  Ho  had 
a  little  rahbit,  some  tin  cups,  eggs,  etc.,  and  at  once  seated 
himself  on  the  deck  in  the  centre  cf  a  group  of  passengers 
near  us,  and  began  his  tricks.     He  proceeded  to  bleat   for 


TXM*!^, 


a  time  like  a  goat,  and  then  uttering  a  sort  of  invocation 
to  the  devil,  "  Come  on,  debble,  come  on,  debble,"  and  then 
his  arch-master  having  come  to  his  aid,  he  began  to  do  the 
most  extraordinary  things.  The  people  laughed  and  won- 
dered, and,  as  long  as  their  money  continued  to  flow,  he  went 
on.     We  stayed  long  enough  to  see  that  he  was  in  the  devil's 


fl 


134 


/..■ia'(7/:a'  o/t/.ooa's  ox  A/issfox.iA'V  f.ixns. 


business,  and  then   we  tui  lu'd  awjiy  as  iar  as  we  could,  but 
could  n()tosca[)o  noticing  the  sequel. 

Suddenly  the  ship  began  to  move,  and  the  Arab  started 
to  get  off,  but  he  was  too  late.  His  dhow  or  hoat  was  off  a 
buiidred  yards,  and  all  the  tenders  had  move<l  away;  then  a 
most  amusing  and  i)aintul  scene  began.  The  sweat  rolled 
down  his  face,  he  cried  and  lamented,  run  to  the  stern, 
screamed  to  the  dhow  to  come  on  and  keep  up,  rushed  franti- 
cally aiound  the  deck,  tried  to  get  i\m  big  ship  to  stop,  but 
the  captain  did  not  even  see  him.  Alas,  the  '•  debble "  could 
not  do  nmch  for  him  now  !  His  mastei'  seemed  all  at  once  to 
have  failed  him.  We  could  not  help  thinking  of  the  magi- 
cians of  Egypt  and  the  narrow  limits  of  their  power.  Fort- 
unately for  him,  the  ship  had  to  turn  round  after  a  little  in 
the  roadstead,  and  during  this  time,  only  a  minute  or  two, 
his  boat  came  up,  he  seized  a  rope  and  swung  himself  over 
the  side  of  the  great  ship,  the  boat  caught  him  below  as  he 
swung  in  mid  air,  and  he  dropped  on  board,  panting  and 
sweating,  while  a  great  cheer  went  up  from  his  friends,  and 
he  seemed  hardly  to  know  whether  he  was  dead  or  alive. 
He,  certainly,  was  the  most  frightened  creature  we  ever  saw, 
and  we  could  not  help  thinking  of  the  difference  between  the 
two  Masters. 

We  have  been  passing  through  the  lands  of  the  Hegira  and 
the  Exodus  of  Israel.  Somewhere  on  the  Une  of  this  canal  is 
the  spot  where  Moses  stretched  his  rod  across  the  deep,  arid 
Pharaoh's  hosts  were  buried  in  the  Red  Sea.  Somewhere  on 
these  shores  the  Pillar  of  Jehovah's  Presence  lighted  up  the 


.I.\7>S. 

ve  could,  but 

Arab  started 

out  was  off  a 

iway;  then  a 

sweat  rolled 

0  the  stern, 
ushed  franti- 
)  to  stop,  but 
ebblo"  could 
all  at  once  to 
of  the  niagi- 
povver.  Fort- 
'ter  a  little  in 
inute  or  two, 
himself  over 

1  below  as  he 
panting  and 

3  friends,  and 
lead  or  alive, 
we  ever  saw, 
9  between  the 

he  Hegira  and 
f  this  canal  is 
the  deep,  aiid 
omev.here  on 
lighted  up  the 


ISM  A I  LI  A    TO  HUM  HAY. 


135 


darkness  of  the  night,  as  this  sunset  glow  now  shines  along 
the  West.  Soniewliere  over  yonder  ar«!  Marah  and  F.lini, 
Rephidini  and  Sinai.  Perhaps  no  one  yet  knows.  Unigsdi 
Bey  suys,  the  site  of  the  crossing  is  away  down  at  Kantara  on 
the  other  side  of  Isniailia.  Hut  this  can  hardly  1m?.  It  is  too 
far  from  Goshen  and  Kameses,  which  have  been  identified 
near  Tel-el-Kebir.  The  old  tradition  says  -Sue/.  Hut  this 
seems  too  far  on  this  side  of  Kameses.  A  good  many  have 
located  it  at  Slialouf,  a  few  miles  abovc^  Suez,  and  they  believe 
that  the  Red  Sea  then  reached  nnich  larther  north,  and  took 
in  the  present  Bitter  Lakes  and  Lake  Timsah  on  which  Is- 
mailia  stands.     This  is,  perhaps,  most  probable. 

We  saw,  a  short  distance  to  the  East,  the  probable  site  of 
EUm,  still  known  as  the  Wells  of  Moses,  where  we  could  see 
the  palms  growing  around  a  few  houses  on  the  oasis.  Away 
beyond  stretch  the  desert  sands  where  they  wandered,  and  in 
the  distance,  rise  the  peaks  of  Horeb  and  Sinai.  Many  a 
weary  journey  has  been  made  to  trace  their  footsteps.  We 
have  little  interest  in  the  mere  processes  of  anticpiarian  re- 
search; we  are  content  to  accept  the  b'  A,  results,  and  get  as 
quickly  as  possible  to  the  practical  lessons  of  their  history. 
For  us  they  trod  these  wastes  and  lived  and  died,  and  failed 
to  enter  in,  that  we  might  escape  their  failures  and  inherit 
their  promises.  "  Let  us,  therefore,  fear  lest,  a  promise  being 
left  us  of  entering  into  His  rest,  any  of  us  should  seem  to 
come  short  of  it." 

The  Red  Sea  looks  like  a  narrow  strip  on  .  -ur  maps,  and 
one  would  almost  expect  to  see  from  shoi-e  to  shore.     But 


•,  < 


'^^^^:^^^^^^^i^x\ 


136         LARGER  nr'T/.OOkS  OX  M/SSmX.I RY  LANDS. 

wlien  yoi!  got  upon  it  you  tiiid  a  great  sea  moiv  than  a  thou- 
sand miles  long,  and  over  two  luindn'd  bioad,  down  which 
it  takes  a  swift  steamer  between  three  and  four  days  to  sail. 
Its  waters  have  been  like  a  summer  pool.  In  the  wak(>  of 
oui-  ship,  flash  the  i)hosphorescent  creatures  that  might  be 
called  t  he  glowworms  of  t]\o  deep.  An  army  of  scores  of  im- 
mense sluu  ks  swam  past  us  to-day.  The  Southern  terminus 
is  the  strait  of  Bab-el- Mandeb,  and  the  town  of  Aden,  a  Brit- 
ish possession,  commands  the  entrance  to  the  canal,  and  is  an 
Arab  town  of  less  than  •?(»,()<)(»  peopl(>.  Across  rises  the  high 
coast  of  the  Somali  Country,  where  a  few  brave  Swedish  mis- 
sionaries ar(^  laboring. 

Arabia  is  yet  an  unevangelizedland,  only  one  or  two  work 
lug  chiefly  in  British  territory.  Some  efforts  are  about  to  be 
made  to  enter  it.  In  His  Name  we  will  claim  it  for  Christ  iu 
His  own  mighty  way.  How  little  is  all  that  we  can  do  against 
this  great  host !  But  He  is  All-sufficient,  and,  in  tliose  days, 
as  wo  realize  moi-e  than  ever  the  immensity  and  difficulty  of 
the  field,  wo  are  falling  back  on  Him,  and  giving  ourselves 
more  than  ever  to  prayer,  not  only  for  a  blessing  on  our  own 
work,  but,  infinitely  beyond  it  all,  for  His  own  infinite,  direct 
and  almighty  working. 

A  foolish  dance  is  going  on  upon  deck  this  evening,  and, 
driven  from  our  usual  walk,  we  have  just  spent  a  very  pleas- 
ant hour  with  the  chief  cook  on  the  lower  deck,  and  he  has 
told  us  the  story  of  his  wonderful  conversion,  six  years  ago, 
on  this  ship,  through  one  of  the  China  Inland  Missionaries. 
He  is  one  of  the  stalwart  sort  of  Christians,  and  stands  alone 


than  a  thou- 
lowii  which 

(lays  to  Hail. 

the  wake  of 
at  might  be 
scoroH  of  irn- 
Mii  terminus 
\.{Vm,  a  Brit- 
al,  and  is  an 
isos  tlu)  high 
>W(>(lish  iriis- 

3r  two  v\'i  )i'k 
3  about  to  be 
for  Christ  in 
n  do  against 
1  those  days, 
difficulty  of 
ng  ourselves 
;  on  our  own 
itinite,  direct 

vening,  and, 
a  very  pleas- 
and  he  has 
X  years  ago, 
Missionaries, 
stands  alone 


ISM  A I  LI  A    TO  BOM  HAY. 


m 


on  this  ship  against  all  the  mixtures  and  compromises  that 
so  dishonor  Dirist,  and  confound  Christianit}  with  more 
worldliness.  It  i.s  refreshing  to  find  once  in  a  while  such  hid- 
den ones  in  all  sorts  of  unexpected  (piarters. 

But  wo  have  just  passed  the  lights  of  Perimand  the  Strait 
of  Bah-el  Mundob,  and  must  get  ready  to  tranship  for  Uom- 
bay. 


ADEN. 

The  approach  to  Aden  is  wild  and  grand.  It  stands 
upon  a  rocky  peninsula,  whose  jagged  cliffs  must  lise  at 
least  2,000  feet  above  the  sea.  It  is  situated  about  eighty 
miles  east  of  the  Strait  of  Bab-el-Mandeh,  and  commands  the 
entrance  of  the  Red  Sea.  It  is  an  English  colony,  strongly 
fortified,  and  of  immense  strategic  importance,  giving  Eng- 
land the  command  of  this  mighty  gateway  to  the  East.  The 
town  lies  back  from  the  harbor  a  few  miles,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  about  L'(t,000. 


w 


i'li»*^fe«isWi^ 


;  <j-     5*w-.**^^^ 


'•k.^-^  %iif\ 


ii  -iv'-to^-: 


lii 


138  LARGER  OVrLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

We  find  some  interesting  traces  of  the  ancient  greatness 
of  this  old  Arabian  town.  It  is  mentioned,  in  Ezekiel  xxvii : 
23,  as  one  of  the  cities  with  which  Tyre  carried  on  an  impor- 
tant commercial  traffic.  Tradition  places  the  home  of  the 
Queen  of  Sheba  at  Saba,  just  north  of  it.  In  the  time  of  Cou- 
stantine  it  was  an  important  church  centre.  In  the  middle 
ages  it  was  a  great  city ,  and  a  prize  for  contending  armies. 
It  has  been  held  successively  by  the  Turks,  Arabs,  Portu- 
guese, French  and  English.  It  is  now  a  part  of  the  Bombay 
Presidency,  and  one  of  the  most  important  military  posts  of 
the  British  empire,  and  known  as  "the  Gibraltar  of  the 

East." 

There  are  a  few  missionaries  from  England  laboring 
here,  the  only  workers  that  have  yet  been  really  planted  in 
Arabia.  So  far  they  are  chiefly  employed  within  the  British 
territory,  but  it  is,  at  least,  an  important  starting  point,  and 
we  join  hands  Avith  them  in  faith  and  prayer,  -^nd  put  the 
sole  of  our  foot  down  on  Arabia  and  claim  it  also  for  Him,  in 
His  own  great  and  mighty  way,  even  in  the  face  of  appar- 
ently insuperable  difficulties. 

Arabia  is  the  land  of  Ishmael  and  Hagar,  of  Moses  and 
the  Law,  of  the  wanderings  of  Israel,  and  the  sojourn  of  Ehjah 
and  Paul.  These  people  are  the  seed  of  Abraham,  and,  at 
least,  the  cousins  of  Israel ;  and  they,  too,  have  an  inherit- 
ance of  promise.  They  are  a  most  attractive  people,  simple, 
affectionate,  intelligent  and  capable.  Our  heart  bleeds  to  see 
them  under  the  blight  of  Mohammedanism. 

A  great  work  has  begun  for  them  m  connection  with  the 


i 


mmtm 


'  LANDS. 

Qcient  greatness 
1  Ezekiel  xxvii : 
ed  on  an  impor- 
he  home  of  the 
the  time  of  Cou- 
In  the  middle 
tending  armies. 
,  Arabs,  Portu- 
t  of  the  Bombay 
nihtary  posts  of 
jribraltar  of  the 

ngland  laboring 
:-eally  planted  in 
ithin  the  British 
rting  point,  and 
rer,  '^nd  put  the 
also  for  Him,  in 
le  face  of  appar- 

ar,  of  Moses  and 
sojourn  of  Elijah 
Lbrahani,  and,  at 
have  an  inherit- 
e  people,  simple, 
eart  bleeds  to  see 

mecfcion  with  the 


ISM AI LI  A   TO  nOMBAY. 


139 


American  Mission  in  Syria,  in  the  publication  of  the  Bible 
and  other  books  in  their  beautiful  language  ;  and  the  Bible 
Societies  are  distributing  these  leaves  of  the  Tree  of  Life 
among  them  with  a  fair  measure  of  success.  Work  has  to 
be  cai-ried  on  among  them  with  great  wisdom.  Anywhere, 
under  the  Turkish  government,  any  very  public  agitation  is 
sure  to  lead  to  the  suppression  of  the  work.  The  work  car- 
ried on  by  the  North  African  Mission,  from  Damascus  among 
the  Bedouins  east  of  the  Jordan,  has  been  stopped,  and  Mr. 
Van  Tassel  has  returned  home.  The  best  work  we  can  do 
for  Arabia  is  to  pray  that  God  Himself  will  somehow  send 
the  pioneers  whom  He  alone  can  prepare  to  go  foi  th  with  the 
Gospel  to  its  neglected  millions,  if  it  be  nothing  more  than  to 
proclaim  the  witness  before  the  coming  of  the  Lord. 

But  we  got  a  glimpse  of  another  race  during  the  four  or 
five  hours  we  stayed  in  Aden,— the  African  tribes  on  the  op- 
posite shore.  We  had  no  sooner  anchored  than  our  ship  was 
surrounded  with  scores  of  Somali  lads,  entirely  nude,  except 
a  towel  around  their  loins.  Tliey  floated  around  like  sea-fowl, 
climbed  on  deck,  and  tried  in  various  ways  to  get  "back- 
shish" or  sell  tl^iir  wares.  They  were  as  black  and  shining 
as  polished  ebony,  with  curly  African  hair.  Their  figures  were 
finely  developed,  and  they  were  really  handsome,  and  veiy 
smart  and  intelligent.  They  were  perfectly  at  home  in  the 
water.  Many  of  them  had  their  own  canoes,  just  big  enough 
for  one,  and  hewn  out  of  a  log  The  sea  washed  in,  but  they 
sat  in  the  bottom  paddling,  and  just  bailed  it  out  with  their 
hands.     You  could  not  drown  them.     They  were  more  than 


i:i 


140 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


half  the  time  in  the  water,  swimming  abcut  like  fishes — able 
to  stand  erect  in  the  sea,  and  laugh  and  talk,  and  dart  about 
among  the  tug-boats  and  steamers  without  the  slightest  fear 
of  being  run  over.  Their  greatest  delight  was  to  have  a  pas- 
senger throw  them  a  ])onny  or  sixpence.  They  would  leap 
from  their  boats  and  catch  it  long  before  it  got  to  the  bottom, 
and  invariably  bring  it  up  in  their  mouths.  Poor  little  fel- 
lows, what  beautiful  Christians  they  would  make  ! 

At  length  we  are  loaded  with  mails  and  freight  for  Bom- 
bay, the  signal  gun  is  fired  and  we  are  off.  As  we  clear  the 
harbor,  we  look  south,  and  the  "Oceana,"  the  ship  we  have 
just  left,  is  leaving  for  Colombo  and  Sydney,  on  her  long 
voyage  of  four  weeks  more  These  great  Australian  ships 
only  make  three  trips  a  year.  Compared  with  one  of  these 
great  voyages,  an  Atlantic  trij)  is  like  crossing  a  ferry. 

The  sail  over  the  Arabian  Sea  from  Aden  to  Bombay  was 
very  delightful.  The  sea  was  as  calm  as  glass,  wuth  the  ex- 
ception of  the  last  few  hours,  and  pleasant  breezes  kept  the 
air  delightfully  cool.  On  the  glassy  waters  floated  myriads 
of  beautiful  sea  anemones,  a  sort  of  jelly  fish  spreading  out 
just  like  a  great  flower,  with  petals  of  lilac  and  heart  of  crim- 
son and  purple.  Flying  fish  would  often  dart  across  the 
waves,  flutter  a  minute  or  so  in  the  air,  flying,  i)erhaps,  a 
Imudred  feet,  and  then  drop  into  the  water.  At  a  distance 
they  looked  like  little  birds,  but  close  at  hand  they  were  seen 
to  be  little  fish  about  a  foot  long,  with  wings  just  like  a  black 
bird. 

This  sea  is  not  always  so  gentle.  In  the  monsoon  season, 
from  June  to  September,  it  is,  perhaps,  the  roughest  sailing 


i^^^« 


•iNDS. 

fishes — able 
d  dart  about 
lightest  fear 
)  have  a  pas- 
T  would  leap 
•  the  bottom, 
;)or  little  fel- 

jht  for  Bom- 
we  clear  the 
ship  we  have 
on  her  long 
;ralian  ships 
one  of  these 
ferry. 

Bombay  was 
Avith  the  ex- 
izes  kept  the 
ited  myriads 
preading  out 
eart  of  crim- 
t  across  the 
?,  perhaps,  a 
\i  a  distance 
ey  were  seen 
>  like  a  black 

isoon  season, 
^hest  sailing 


ISM  AIL  1. 1   TO  nOMIiAY. 


141 


in  the  world,  and  the  sailors  and  officers  told  us  how  in  the 
last  monsoon,  the  chief  officer  of  the  "  Assam,"  one  of  the 
two  steamers  that  sail  between  Aden  and  Bombay,  was  swept 
off  the  deck  by  a  great  wave,  and  never  seen  again.  This, 
however,  is  the  calm  season  and  is  unusually  calm. 

All  our  stewards  are  Hindus,  and  the  Post  Office  clerks 
also.  Most  of  them  speak  English  perfectly,  and,  but  for 
their  brown  faces,  you  would  take  theni  for  Enghshmen. 
The  crew  are  all  Hindus,  and  it  is  a  sight  not  to  be  forgotten 
to  witness  one  of  their  meals.  Last  night  we  watched  them 
at  supper.  A  great  tin  pan  of  rice,  about  a  yard  in  diameter, 
and  holding  at  least  five  gallons  of  boiled  rice,  was  brought 
by  one  of  them  to  the  forecastle  deck,  and  then  nine  or  ten  of 
them  squatted  round  it,  k:;ving  first  all  carefully  washed  their 

hands. 

Then  they  began  to  squeeze  the  rice  to  make  it  s-^ft  and 
sticky,  any  or  all  of  them  sticking  in  their  hands  at  \,  •..  re, 
until  they  had  worked  it  up  to  the  proper  consistency.  Then 
a  little  basin  or  pot  was  brought,  containing  some  curry 
sauce,  and  this  was  poured  over  the  rice,  and  again  their 
hands  were  plunged  in  and  the  rice  and  curry  mixed  up  until 
it  had  become  properly  colored  and  flavored.  The  process  of 
eating  then  began,  and  each  one,  with  his  hands,  plunged 
into  the  great  dish  until  the  dish  was  empty.  Then  he  would 
look  round  at  some  other  httle  company,  and,  if  there  was 
another  dish  not  yet  finished,  he  might  join  that  party.  They 
were  all  squatted  around  these  dishes,  and  looked  not  unlike 
a  little  pen  of  animals  getting  their  rations  in  a  trough.  But 
they  are  gentle,  inoffensive,  quiet  people,  good  servants,  and 


~m~ 


T-  ',  :<'^;'^i^^^^^^^^^^mifm^^fmmmmm^mm^^$^^mmt^M4-^&  s- 


142  LARCRR  OUTLOOk'S  0\'  MISSIONARY  J.ANDS. 

like  simple,  happy  children.  They  are  rather  timid,  and 
bear  in  thoir  faces  and  manners  the  marks  of  a  subject  race. 
We  reached  Bombay  about  ten  o'clock  on  Saturday  even- 
ing, February  25.  The  harbor  is  large  and  fine,  and  is  guarded 
by  bold,  high  shores.  We  had  just  got  our  baggage  on  the 
steam  launch  of  the  P.  cSc  O.  Company,  and  were  arranging 
to  go  to  a  hotel,  when  our  good  brother  Fuller  arrived,  with 
a  cordial  welcome,  and  took  us  to  a  delightful  Christian 
household,  where  we  remained  during  our  stay  in  Bombay, 
and  met  some  lovely  Christian  friends.  We  remained  in 
Bombay  until  Tuesday  morning,  and  then  left  by  train  to 
visit  our  dear  missionaries  in  Berar.  We  shall  speak  of  them 
and  our  missionary  work  later. 

Our  first  act  on  stepping  upon  the  shores  of  India  was  to 
get  alone  on  the  landing,  and,  while  our  friends  were  having 
our  baggage  attended  to  and  securing  a  carriage,  we  just 
looked  up  into  the  skies  and  heavens,  beyond  the  glorious 
stars,  and  claimed  this  place,  on  which  the  sole  of  our  feet  at 
length  rested,  for  Christ  and  His  gospel. 

And  we  believe  that  He  gave  us  more  than  our  eyes  shall 
<^ver  see  at  this  time,  for  the  evangelization  of  this  wondrous 
land  and  mighty  people,— the  most  open  and  interesting  mis- 
sion field  in  the  world,  and  the  great  inheritance  and  trust, 
not  only  of  the  British  nation,  but  also  of  all  the  English- 
speaking  people  of  the  world. 

One  of  our  first  impressions  of  India  was  the  noises  of  the 
night.  The  air  was  literally  wild  with  the  cries  of  innumer- 
able birds,  especially  crows,  which  were  flying  about  all  the 
night,  lighting  upon  our  window  sills  and  impudently  put- 


ther  timid,  and 
■  a  subject  race. 

I  Saturday  even- 

e,  aud  m  guarded 

baggage  on  the 

were  arranging 

er  arrived,  with 
;htful  Christian 
5tay  in  Bombay, 
Ve  remained  in 
left  by  train  to 

II  speak  of  them 

of  India  was  to 
ds  were  having 
rriage,  we  just 
ud  the  glorious 
le  of  our  feet  at 

II  our  eyes  shall 
this  wondrous 
nteresting  mis- 
mce  and  trust, 
.11  the  Enghsh- 

he  noises  of  the 
3s  of  innumer- 
;  about  all  the 
apudently  put- 


1? 


ISM  A 1 1. 1  A  TO  nOMBAY. 


143 


ting  their  noses  and  their  noises  into  everything.  As  the 
Hindu  does  not  believe  in  killing  anything  lest  he  might  haply 
kill  his  grandfather  in  some  new  form  of  transmigration,  it  is 
the  paradise  of  birds,  beasts  and  insects. 

Our  next  decided  impression  was  made  by  the  American 


BOMBAY. 

mosquito  who  was  here  in  force.  Fortunately,  if  they  do 
not  kill  him  they  fence  him  off,  and  so  we  got  under  our  bar 
as  speedily  as  possible,  and  stayed  there  till  daylight  cleared  the 
air.  Everybody  in  India  keeps  doors  and  windows  open,  and 
the  word  draught  is  unknown  in  this  land.  We  found  the 
nights  cool  and  pleasant,  and  the  days  hot,  but  not  nearly  so 
hot  as  we  expected  at  this  season. 


*J 


'^ffvf^ 


144 


LARChR   OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


Perhaps  our  next  impression  was  the  dress  or  rather  un- 
dress of  the  people.  The  men  und  women  of  the  lower  cla^-ses 
dress  ahout  alike.  The  limhs  are  scarcely  covered,  one  gar- 
ment being  fastened  around  the  loins,  and  anothrr  usually- 
over  the  shoulders.     'J'he  turban  is  always  to  bo  seen  on  th- 

elaborate.      The 


men,  and  is  very 
women  gracefully 
a  corner  of  the  loose 
the  shoulders.  These 
carry i tig  great  l)ur- 
their  heads.  i  t 
almost  to  tears  to 
among  rough  meii 
borers  on  the  public- 
the  mortar  for  the 
carriers.  As  we  saw 
bodies  trembling 
hods  and  babkets  of 
we  asked  what  wa- 
aud  they  told  us :  "In 
cents  a  day — in  the 
And  for  this  these 
day  in  the  hot  sun, 


HINDU  WOMAN. 


throw  over  the  head 
robe,  that  falls  ovei- 
won)eu  can  be  seen 
dens  constantly  on 
touched  our  heart 
see  them  engaged 
as  the  lowest  la- 
buildiugs,  carrying 
masons  like  on  r  hod 
their  frail,  half- dad 
under  these  gieat 
brick  and  mortar, 
ges  they  received, 
Bombay  about  eight 
country  much  less." 
women  toiled  all 
and  went  home  to 


feed  themselves  and  their  children  on  a  little  lice  and 
curry,  and  often  this  was  a  luxury  they  could  not  afford. 
We  thanked  God  for  what  the  Gospel  had  done  for  our 
Christian  womea,  and  we  longed  that  our  redeemed  sisters 
might   be  awakened  to  do  more  for    the  toiling  and  de- 


ANDS. 

)r  rather  un- 
lower  cla;  >-(?s 
red,  one  g  \r- 
>thf  !•  usufi'iy 

seen  on  th  • 
rate.  Th.> 
)ver  the  head 
lat  fills  ov.?i- 
L  can  be  seen 
Dnstanily  on 
i  our  heart 
urn  engaged 
i  lowest  la- 
gs, cariying 
.like  our  hod 
ail,  hah-; lad 
these  gieat 
ind  mortar, 
ey  received, 
y  ahout  eight 
,^  much  less." 
toiled  all 
mt  home  to 
le    rice    and 

not  afford, 
lone  for  our 
emed  sisters 
ing  and  de- 


z 

s 

m 

H 


CD 
O 

z 

> 
< 


■"WM 


ISM.  1 1  I.I.I  TO  iio.un.iv. 


145 


graded  wonu'ii  of  India.  Many  of  tlu'se  toiling  woni»ni  woif 
young  girls  of  liftwn  to  twenty,  and  many  of  th.-m  nioth.-is 
with  children.     Think  of  then),  girls  and  mothers  of  America  ! 

The  first  sunrise  we  saw  in  India  was  upon  (Jod's  h(dy 
day.  We  found  many  friends  waiting  to  welcome  us  to  the 
vineyard,  and  we  were  only  too  glad  to  respond.  We  liad  the 
privilege  of  preaching  throe  times  on  that  day  :  at  11  A.  M., 
and  0  and  8  P.  M.  The  first  two  services  were  in  the  Ameri- 
can Methodist  Episcopal  Churcli,  where  we  found  a  large  and 
earnest  English  congregation,  consisting  largely  of  Europeans 
in  India,  and  English-speaking  natives.  The  later  services 
were  held  at  the  Sailor's  Rest,  where  we  found  a  nice  com- 
pany of  Scotch  and  Enghsh  sailors,  and  we  heheve  that  sev- 
eral precious  souls  were  saved. 

The  Superintendent  of  the  Mission  is  our  dear  hrothei-, 
Mr.  Madden,  lately  of  New  York,  who,  with  his  dear  wife 
used  often  to  attend  our  Tabernacle  services  in  >'ew  York, 
and  called  upon  us  there  less  than  three  years  ago,  to  consult 
about  entering  upon  foreign  n)issionary  work.     We  were 
glad  to  hear  from  many  quarters  that  this  work  is  most  suc- 
cessful, and  he  is  very  highly  esteemed  among  our  Christian 
workers  here,  and  beloved  by  the  sailors.     The  Pastor  of  the 
M.  E.  Church,  where  we  also  preached,  is  a  successful  Amer- 
ican Pastor  who  has  recently  come  to  India  from  a  western 
city,  so  that  we  feel  a  good  deal  at  home  in  such  congenial 
surroundings.     The  spirit  of  many  of  the  workers  was  most 
earnest,  simple,  catholic  and  aggressive.     This  is  one  of  the 
self-supporting  churches  founded  by   Bishop  Taylor  many 


?B«Krt«SJ*s^SSS^SS?R?MSS3K^-! 


m 


146        LARGER  OLTLOORS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

years  ago,  and  is,  indeed,  n  mcmument  to  Iub  zeal  and  wis- 
dom. It  is  a  blessod  cHUtie  ol  ii  'ly  Christinn  life  and  wurk. 
On  Tlonday  mui  viwMr  v,  -  It  -d  tlie  pleuHuro  of  breakfasting 
witli  M  •.  Dyer,  jti  iprietor  of  the  BomUwj  (fuanlinn,  and 
meeting  other  diar  friends  there.  He  has  been  most  kind  to  all 
our  outgoing  missionaries,  and  has  usually  given  them  a  pub- 

1  ic  wel- 


MAP  OF  SOUTHERN  ASIA. 


come 
at  his 
home. 
We 
did  not 
f  o  r  g  e  t 
t  o    call 
at  the 
homeof 
our«lea" 
f  rit  nd 
now  in 
New 
York, 


I^Iiss  Helen  Richardson,  rind  had  the  pleasure  ol  sc^eing  two 
of  her  assistants  and  some  of  her  work.  One  of  them  is 
Miss  Carter,  of  Brooklyn.  Miss  Eid  .  rdson  is  laboring  for  the 
unfortunate  girls  of  ludia,  especi  .11^  those  who  have  been  m- 
veigled  into  sin  after  coming  from  other  lands,  by  bad  men.  Her 
work  is  a  much-needcr.  vne,  and  we  :n-e  sure  h.r  return  wiU 
be  the  occasion  for  renewing  it  with  fresh  courage  and  power. 


LANDS. 

•»  zeal  and  wis- 
I  life  and  work, 
of  breakfasting 
(fuanlian,  and 
most  kind  to  all 
en  them  a  pub- 
1  ic  wel- 
c  o  m  e 
a  t  his 


ISMA/L/A   ro  nOMIlAY. 


147 


3  ot  seeing  two 
One  of  them  is 
?  laboring  for  the 
tio  have  been  in- 
by  bad  men.  Her 
3  her  return  will 
irageand  power. 


In  the  evening  we  were  invited  to  take  part  in  the  first 
public  meeting  of  the  Woman's  Christian  Temperance  Union, 
in  Bombay,  and  it  was  a  good  and  spirited  meeting,  and  the 
work  is  beginning  with  a  lot  of  live  and  loving  women  be- 
hind it. 

Most  of 
Monday  was 
spent,  very 
busily,  in 
Bombay,  vis 
iting  business 
offices.  lo<  ik- 
ing for  our 
mail,  finding 
about  sa.  ing 
«)f  steamers, 
aul  seeing  a 
httle  of  this 
great  an 
wond"^fui 
city  a  nd. 
We  ^  'iall  not 

at  this  time,  a,  aii  to  describe  it  further  than  to  say  that 
Bombiiv  is  the  commercial  metropoHs  of  India,  and  the 
setond  city  in  the  British  Empire.  It  is  worthy  of  its  high 
position,  at  least  so  far  as  appearance  is  concerned.  It  re- 
min<U  one  of  what  ancient  Epn  sus  must  have  been.  ae 
magnificent  capital  of  the  Orieni      it  is,  indeed,   a  superb 


STREET  IN  BOMBAY. 


il 


HMI^M 


148         LARCER  or r LOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS, 

and  8i)lendi(l  city  with  a  iioimlation  ftf  wavXy  a  million,  and  a 
luxuriance  of  architeituie  and  vegetation  worthy  of  the 
glorious  East.  A  short  visit  to  the  magnificent  market  gave 
one  an  idea,  that  nothing  ^'Ise  could,  of  the  wealth  of  natural 
resources  which  surrouml^  it.  All  the  fruits  of  the  northern 
zones  were  there,  and  nuiltitudes  of  varieties  of  tiopical 
flowers,  plants,  fruits,  and  vegetables  which  we  cannot  even 
take  time  to  name. 

India  is,  iideed,  a  great  and  wondrous  world.  And  her 
two  hundred  and  eighty  million  souls  are  our  great  inheri- 
tance, and  sacred  trust.  God  is  laying  her  intensely  on  our 
hearts,  and  we  roll  the  burden  on  thousands  of  other  hearts 
to  whom  God  is  waiting  to  give  the  greatest  privilege  and 
honor  of  the  Ages,  viz. ,  the  -riving  to  her  yet  neglected  mil- 
lions of  the  glorious  invitation,  perhaps  for  the  last  time,  to 
the  Marriage  of  the  I.amb. 

UNDER  THE  SOUTHERN  CROSS. 

Stars  of  the  Southern  heaveUB, 

I  greet  you  in  His  name, 
Who  hung  your  torches  yonder 

And  lit  your  glowing  flame. 

Oft  in  the  northern  midnight 

I've  seen  Orion  shine, 
The  brightest  constellation 

Of  yonder  arch  divine. 

The  silvery  light  of  Slrius, 

The  wond'rous  Pleiades, 
The  never-changing  Pole  star,— 

Oft  have  I  gazed  on  these  ; 


"mmm 


riXDS, 

iiillion,  at\(\  a 
>rthy  of  the 
imuket  gave 
th  of  natural 
the  northern 
8  of  tropical 
cannot  even 

Id.  And  her 
great  inheri- 
snsely  on  our 
other  hearts 
privilege  and 
leglected  niil- 
[3  last  time,  to 


iSMAiLiA  TO  r.o.\rnAy. 

But  I  have  Iuok«<I  to  Mt<e  thee, 
Pair  Hoiithern  (V«)hs,  arlne  ; 

Th«  niystlo  Hijfn  of  Jemis 
Engraven  on  the  iikiea. 

Sliine  on,  thou  wond'rou'i  Hifjnal, 
Bright  lianip  from  ht'avtMi  above, 

Tell  out  o'pr  «'arth  and  oncan 
The  niymcry  of  HIh  love. 

O'er  Australaalan  iMlands, 
Ami  Afrln'H  buininff  saiiilM, 

O'er  India's  teeniinf^  nilllioiiH, 
And  all  the  Christlesta  landn  ; — 

Tell  how  the  Lord  of  Heaven 

Gave  up  His  Son  to  die, 
Till  men  Hhall  cat(di  the  nieaninf; 

Of  Ciirist  and  0*1  vary. 

The  Church  liaH  lon>f  nejflected 
'J'o  make  the  uiehHa^e  known  ; 

But  God  haw  huiij?  thy  Signal, 
To  tlaHk  It  from  the  Throne. 

They  say  its  stars  are  tinted 
Like  Oalvary'H  criuiHou  hue  ; 

The  very  heavens  confesH  Him 
Who  died  for  me  and  you. 

The  Southern  Cross  is  hang^in^ 

Low  in  the  Eastern  sky  ; 
I  almost  long  to  grasp  it 

And  lift  it  up  on  high. 

But  there's  a  cross,  ()  Master, 
That  e'en  our  Imnds  can  bear, — 

We  can  lift  up  Thy  gosiiel 
And  tell  it  everywhere. 


149 


mm 


I50 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

Yon  glorious  constellation 

Ts  slowly  travelling  on, 
And  lo  !  erect  it  standeth, 

Long  ere  the  night  is  gone. 

Yes,  and  the  Cross  of  Jesus 

Is  rising  evermore ; 
And  soon  its  light  and  glory 

Will  shine  from  shore  to  shore. 

Amid  yon  starry  cluster 

Two  Crosses  I  can  see  : 
One  is  the  Cross  of  Jesus, 

And  one— is  left  for  me. 

One  stands  erect  to  Heaven ; 

'Tis  His,  who  suffered  there, 
And  one  is  prostrate  lying 

For  us  to  take  and  bear. 

I  lift  Thy  Cross,  O  Jesus, 

O'er  every  heath*  n  land  ; 
And  mine  I  take  and  carry 

At  Thy  divine  command. 


X. 


OUR  WORK  IN  BERAR. 


■  *^ 


WE  spent  a  delightful  week  with  our  missionaries 
in  Berar,  and  had  a  season  of  much  mutual 
blessing. 

The  Province  of  Berar  lies  directly  north  of  the  Nizam's 
Dominions  and  the  large  District  of  Hyderabad.  It  begins 
about  three  hundred  miles  east  of  Bombay  and  extends  about 
one  hundred  and  seventy  miles  from  east  to  west  and  one 
hundred  and  fifty  from  north  to  south.  It  contains  a  popu- 
lation of  nearly  three  millions  of  people. 

It  lies  in  a  vast  plain,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  a 
long  range  of  hills  called  the  Sappuro  Hills.  It  is  one  of  the 
richest  agricultural  districts  of  India,  and  is  especially  noted 
as  a  cotton  producing  district.  There  are  large  cotton  mar- 
kets all  along  the  railway,  and  many  cotton  gins  and  presses 
with  some  cotton  factories.  During  the  American  war  a 
great  impetus  was  given  to  this  trade.  The  soil  and  climate 
seem  especially  adapted  to  it. 

It  has  very  dense  population,  averaging  in  some  districts 
two  hundred  and  fifty  to  the  square  mile.     Its  principal  cities 

are  Amraoti,  Akola,  Ellichpur,  and  Bassim,  but  there  are  a 

151 


I 


r#i^s«aM^»,i^>^jSs*ss*ss?*!ftsa.itfii3^^saBWS!;r; 


1^2         LARGER   OI'/LOOKS  OX  MISS/OXAR)    I.AXDS. 

great  many  towns  of  from  five  to  ten  thousand  inhabitants, 
aiTd,  at  least,  four  thousand  smaller  towns  and  villages. 

It  is  not  a  district  much  visited  by  strangers  and  travel- 
lers, for  it  has  no  romantic  scenery  nor  striking  histoiic  asso- 
ciations. And  it  has  been  strangely  neglected  y\  the  occupa- 
tion of  India  by  missionaries.  For  fifteen  or  t.venty  years  a 
few  pioneers  have  been  i)reparing  the  way  :  Mr.  Ward  at 
Ellichi)ur  ;  Miss  Sisson,  Miss  Drake  and  Miss  Wlieeler  at 
Bassim ;  and  later,  under  her  new  name,  Mrs.  Moore  with  her 
good  husband,  Brother  Moore,  and  our  own  dear  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Fuller  at  Ellichpm-,  Akote  and  Akola.  Much  faithful 
work  Avas  done,  much  suft'ering  endured,  and  nauch  prayer 
stored  up  in  heaven  by  these  lone  laborers,  and  at  last  the 
harvest  has  begun  to  appear. 

A  few  years  ago  Miss  Bates  and  Miss  Dawlly,  from  our 
own  work,  joined  them  at  Akola,  and,  about  the  same  time, 
Mr.  Eogers  from  America  began  to  found  the  Industrial 
School  for  the  training  of  native  boys  in  mechanical  and 
skilled  work.  Miss  Ca&e  and  Miss  Walker  followed  about  a 
year  and  a  half  ago.  Gradually  these  links  drew  the  older 
workers  into  closer  contact  with  the  Alliance,  and  the  result 
was  the  consunmia^ion  of  a  union  which  has  led  to  the  send- 
ing out  of  the  four  parties  that  have  so  rapidly  followed  each 
other  during  the  ])ast  six  months,  making  an  aggregate  of 
forty-thr6e  Alliance  missioiiaries  now  on  the  field. 

To  visit  these  beloved  workers  was  one  of  the  chief  ob- 
jects of  our  journey  to  India.  As  soon,  therefoi-e,  as  we  could 
get  off  from  Bombay,  we  were  on  our  way  to  Berar,  by  the 


4XDS. 

inhal)itants, 
illages. 
\  and  travel- 
tiistoiic  asso- 
I  the  occupa- 
enty  years  a 
Ii-.  Ward  at 
Wheeler  at 
ore  with  her 
ear  Mr.  and 
^ucli  faithful 
iiuch  ])rayer 
[  at  last  the 

ily,  from  our 
i  same  time, 
le  Industrial 
c'hanical  and 
wed  about  a 
ew  the  older 
id  the  result 
to  the  send- 
oUowed  each 
aggregate  of 
d. 

;he  chief  ob- 
;,  as  we  could 
Berar,  by  the 


OL'R  irOK'K  IX  BERAR. 


153 


great  railway  which  leads  through  the  Central  Provinces  from 
Bombay  to  Calcutta.  We  met  the  first  section  of  our  mis- 
sionary party  at  the  mountain  village  of  Igatpuri,  sometime 
before  we  got  to  Berar.  Here,  at  the  summit  of  the  western 
Ghauts— the  literal  "Gates"  to  the  great  central  plain  of 


mmsm?^m:^^~^im^:^: 


THE  QHAUT  RAILWAY. 

India,  —we  found  eight  of  our  dear  friends  very  pleasantly  set- 
tled, and  faithfully  studying  the  hnguage  ard  getting  ready 
for  work. 

We  need  not  say  it  was  a  joyful  meeting,  and  we  found 
them  all  exceedingly  well  and  happy,  and  looking  better  than 


warn 


^mi 


,i?i.  :n^ 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


ever.  They  had  aheady  made  very  fair  progress  with  the 
language,  and  were  carrying  on  a  Uttle  woi'k  in  the  native 
village  close  by.  One  had  given  hei-  first  little  message  to  the 
natives  in  Marathi  the  previous  Sabbath,  and  they  were  all 
much  encouraged. 

There  are  many  Europeans  and  English-speaking  natives 
at  Igatpuri,  which  is  a  great  railway  centre,  and  we  had  the 
great  pleasure  of  preaching  in  the  evening  to  an  excellent 
congregation  in  the  Methodist  Chapel,  and  pressing  upon  them 
the  claims  the  heathen  have  upon  the  native  Chiistians  of 
India,  When  we  got  home  we  were  glad  to  find  a  line  young 
fellow  who  had  been  at  the  service,  and  was  under  deep  con- 
viction of  sin  and  wished  to  talk  with  us.  He  was  a  native 
and  an  employe  of  the  railway.  We  had  a  blessed  season  of 
prayei',  and  thanked  God  for  fruit  from  our  first  missionary 
meeting  in  India.  He  went  away  professing  to  give  himself 
fully  to  the  Lord,  and  promising  to  attend  the  meetings  at  the 
Mission  Home. 

Igatpuri  is  only  a  temporary  residence  for  our  workers 
while  studying.  It  is  already  occupied  by  other  missionaries, 
but  was  an  excellent  place  to  receive,  and,  for  a  time,  settle 
part  of  our  large  company,  till  they  could  be  permanently  lo- 
cated ;  and  it  is  a  cool  and  delightful  summer  home,  quite 
high,  and,  except  in  the  rainy  season,  more  pleasant  than 
Berar.  In  the  monsoons,  ho\  ever,  from  June  to  September, 
the  rainfall  on  all  the  mountains  is  enormous,  reaching  some- 
times several  hundred  inches  in  a  single  season. 

Taking  both  househo! '-  along  with  us,  to  attend  a  Con- 


vns. 

58  with  the 

the  native 

jsage  to  the 

ley  were  all 

:ing  natives 
we  had  the 
,n  excellent 
;  upon  them 
hiistians  of 

tine  young 
1"  deep  con- 
as  a  native 
i  season  of 

missionary 
ive  himself 
tings  at  the 

lur  workers 
lissionaries, 
time,  settle 
lanentiy  lo- 
liome,  quite 
;asant  than 
September, 
Aing  some- 
end  a  Con- 


's-Kfi 


?'".Tassss3?«s 


S^?ISWia'ffia3^'^«TSS3SS?}WpS3^- 


GROUP  OF  MISSIONARIES  AT  IQATPURI. 
A  "Kndak"  photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 


X 


.^' 


OUR  WORK  i.\\nr:R.iR. 


155 


vention  of  all  our  workers,  which  had  heen  called  for  Thurs- 
day and  Friday,  March  2  and  :;,  we  found  most  of  the  others 
there  n  our  arrival  the  next  afternoon,  and  we  liad  a  very 
joyful  welcome,  and  felt  very  much  as  if  we  had  got  home 
again  to  the  old  Tahernacle  meetings. 

We  had  feared  that  the  large  parties  of  new  mission- 
aries, who  had  come  out  in  succession  since  last  September, 
would  greatly  strain  the  accommodations  our  friends  were 
able  to  count  upon,  and  we  hastened  our  journey  in  order  to 
assist  in  getting  our  friends  settled.  But  we  found  to  our 
surprise  that  everything  was  already  arranged  in  the  most 
quiet  and  satisfactory  manner,  and  every  one  was  happy  and 
contented.  The  Lord  has  very  wonderfully  aided  our  dear 
friends  in  this  whole  matter,  and  given  His  own  wisdom  and 
grace  to  the  Snperintendent  and  all  the  missionaries  in  a  very 
special  manner,  so  that  we  found  them  not  only  thankful  for 
all  the  people  that  had  come,  but  glad  to  welcome  still  more, 
as  soon  as  the  way  was  clear  to  send  them. 

We  were  met  it  the  Akola  depot  by  all  the  missionaries 
and  most  of  the  boys  x  t  '  .le  Mission.  We  found  the  approach 
to  the  city  very  imposing,  the  Enj,  .ish  quarters  being  hand- 
somely laid  out  with  broad  avenues  and  lines  of  handsome 
shade  trees.  It  is  a  city  of  about  tweuty-fr-'e  thousand  in- 
habitants, and  consists  of  two  tow„js,  one  European  and  the 
other  native.  It  ic  the  capit-d  of  one  o "'  the  five  districts  of 
Berar,  and  the  residence  of  a  number  of  English  offit^ials. 
There  is  an  English  church  aiad  chaplaincy,  and  there  are  a 
number  of  handsome  bungalows  on  the  main  avenue,  where 


I 


-smmmim 


156      LARGER  orr/.ooKs  ox  i\r/ss/oxARy  lands. 


HINDU  WOMEN. 

they  live.     The  Mission  bungalow  is  in  the  English  quarter, 
and  is  a  substantial  building  with  a  fine  approach. 

There  is  also  on  the  ground  another  excellent  house, 


N/)S. 


:w:> 


sh  quarter, 
ent  house, 


r 

CO 


•0 

I 
> 
z 
> 
o 
m 

> 

O 


IIR  Mt^KK  IX  lll.RAK. 


157 


whit;h  Miss  I  tuvs  11  .'rected  fur  thtMnpluinage  work  m  (here. 
The  two  togethtM  ;iccommodate  about  seventeen  persons. 
ThiMi  there  are  the  girls'  and  the  boys'  Home  on  the  same 
site,  w'h<ro  thtie  an  boitt  fourteen  girls  and  seventeen  boys. 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fuller  live  just  at  the  edge  of  the  native 
town,  in  a  neat,  simple  bungalow,  about  half  .1  mile  from  the 
mission  promises.  The  Lord  has  been  K»aciou  'v  providing 
till.,  vahiuble  property  during  the  waiting  y  "  '^^^  '"om- 

mencement  of  this  great  work,  and  we  m  ilow  up 

with  a  faith  and  com-age  worthy  of  what  1  'iie. 

Wo  found  Tuostof  the  party  quite  well  s.  Fuller  had 

just  a  few  weeks  previously  risen  from  h»>r  i,  and  another 
nttle  missionary  had  joined  the  family  circle.  It  was,  indeed, 
wonderful  1  ^  Ood  had  carried  her  through  the  double  strain, 
and  we  nev  her  so  bright,  victorious  and  happy.     It  is 

enough  to  say  Uiat  Brother  Fuller  was  '^as  aforetime  ■,"' and 
so  we  expect  ever  to  find  him  till  the  Master  comes.  Two  of 
the  dear  ones  were  unwell,  but  improving. 

On  the  following  morning  we  gathered  together  at  eight 
o'clock  for  the  first  Convention  of  the  Christian  Alliance  in 
India.  It  was  a  season  forever  to  be  remembered  by  us  all. 
As  some  of  us  looked  back  ten  years  in  America  to  the  begin- 
ning of  the  work  there,  and  others  to  the  lonely  days  of  wait- 
ing in  India,  and  saw  this  company  of  more  than  fifty  work- 
ers gathered,  in  one  spirit,  in  this  field,  there  were  feelings 
too  deep  and  full  for  utterance.  There  were  a  few  others 
present  with  us,  besides  our  own  missionaries,  but  all  were  of 
one  heart  to  win  Berar  for  Jesus. 

Our  Bethshan  friends  from  London  have  taken  the  city 
of  EUichpur  for  a  centre,  and  several  of  them  were  present. 


158      LARGER  orrrooRs  ox  nr/ssroxARV  /..txns. 

Mr.  Moore,  from  Hassim,  rpprosenting  an  independent  work 
(•(•nnected  with  Dr.  Cullis,  was  present  with  Pliihp,  hisevau- 
gehst.  The  P'ree  Metliodists  luive  also  a  mission  at  Yeotmal, 
in  the  south-west  of  the  province,  and  their  two  missionaries 
were  present.  There  is  only  one  other  mission  in  the  prov- 
ince, and  that  is  the  Scotch  Mission  at  Amraoti,  hut  they 
have  no  European  missionaries  there,  and  were  not  rt^pre- 
sented  in  the  conference.  We  might  truly  say  that  all  the 
foreign  Avorkers  in  Berar  were  represented.  Our  dear  sister, 
Miss  Hattie  Bruce,  from  the  American  Marathi  Mission,  was 
also  present. 

It  was  a  season  of  great  spiritual  blessing.  It  is  enough 
to  say  that  the  mornings  were  spent  in  the  study  of  the 
Scriptures  and  i)rayer,  the  afternoons  in  looking  at  the  work 
and  the  field,  and  hearing  reports  from  the  workers,  and  the 
evenings  in  services  of  a  moie  general  character,  fitted  to  in- 
terest tlu'  natives,  many  of  whom  attended. 

All  the  missionaries  were  heard  from,  and  all  had  grown 
very  much  since  we  last  saw  them.  The  one  sentence,  "I 
am  so  glad  I  am  in  India,  and  I  have  not  had  a.i  unhappy  or 
lonely  day  since  I  lauded,"  came  to  be  expected  as  the  intro- 
duction to  almost  every  testimony.  Of  course,  very  much  in 
the  way  of  work  or  results  could  not  be  expected  in  the  short 
time  they  had  been  here,  but  it  was  wonderful  how  much 
they  had  accomplished.  All  had  learned  something  of  the 
language.  Almost  all  had  been  at  work,  selling  books  in  the 
bazaars,  singing  Marathi  hymns,  which  most  of  them  had 
already  learned,  and  speaking  in  broken  sentences  or  reading 


RM..  &m 


ANDS. 

eiulcnt  work 

lip,  *iis  ovan- 

at  Yeotmal, 

missionaries 

in  the  [)rov- 

)ti,  but  they 

e  not   repre- 

that  all  the 

f  dear  sister, 

Mission,  was 

It  is  enough 
tudy  of  the 
at  the  work 
ers,  and  the 
,  fitted  toin- 

11  had  grown 
entence,  "I 

unhappy  or 
IS  the  intro- 
ery  much  in 

in  the  short 
1  how  much 
thing  of  the 
books  in  the 
)f  them  liad 
)8  or  reading 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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OL'Ji!  irOA'A'  LV  BERAR. 


159 


simple  texts  in  the  language.  Some  of  them  had  most  inter- 
esting reports  to  make  of  how  God  used  their  hroken  efforts, 
and  how  some  precious  souls  had  already  been  won.  Of 
course  these  results  have  to  be  proved,  but  one  could  not  fail 
to  see  how  mightily  God  had  indeed,  already  been  working 
and  using  the  weak  and  foolish  things  to  confound  the  wise 
and  mighty.  There  are  several  remarkable  testimonies  of 
God's  healing,  especially  among  the  native  children,  some  of 
them  very  clear  and  striking. 

One  of  the  greatest  privileges  we  had  was  the  opportu- 
nity of  speaking  to  the  educated  natives.  We  received  a  very 
courteous  invitation  from  a  number  of  influential  Hindus,  in- 
cluding lawyers,  physicians  and  public  officials,  all  able  to 
underst.*.  '  English,  requesting  us  to  lecture  to  them  in  the 
Public  Library.  This  we  gladly  consented  to  do  on  Saturday 
evening,  March  4th.  There  was  a  violent  storm  at  the  time, 
which  prevented  some  from  coming,  but  the  hall  was  full, 
and  after  we  had  answered  a  few  questions  about  education 
in  America,  ar  he  Ik^uor  traffic,  on  both  of  which  we 
had  to  speak  with  oii  me,  we  frankly  talked  to  these  gentle- 
men about  Jesus.  We  took  as  our  theme  the  cry  of  the 
Greeks :  "  Sir,  we  would  see  Jesus,"  and  we  endeavored,  in 
the  power  of  the  Spirit,  to  tell  these  men  of  a  crucified  and  a 
living  Christ.  As  we  looked  into  those  noble  faces,  our  heart 
was  filled  with  love,  and  "we  were  willing  to  impart  to  them 
not  only  the  gospel  of  Christ,  but  our  own  souls  also."  We 
believe  many  were  touched  and  blessed,  and  one  of  the  lead- 
ing gentlemen  afterward  sought  a  personal  interview  with 
us. 


I    ': 


l6o       LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

There  are  great  difficulties  in  the  way  of  these  men  ;  but 
God  is  working  on  their  hearts,  and  when  they  break  down, 
there  will  be  a  great  break.  We  can  now  understand  how 
Mr.  Pentecost  and  Mr.  Varley  have  been  able  to  preach  to 
large  audiences  of  them  for  weeks  in  Poona,  Madras  and 
other  places.  We  could  wish  for  no  higher  joy,  for  a  time  at 
least,  than  to  be  able  to  spend  six  months  among  them  tell- 
ing them  of  the  hving  Christ.  The  lives  of  our  missionaries 
among  them  during  the  past  ten  years,  here  in  Akola,  have 
made  a  profound  impression  upon  them,  and,  at  the  close  of 
our  address  the  other  night,  the  Chairman  let  out  the  secret 
by  saying  that  a  religion  which  could  produce  such  lives 
could  not  be  a  had  religion. 

On  Sabbath  afternoon  we  saw  the  great  weekly  bazaar 
in  the  public  market.  There  must  have  been,  at  least,  ten 
thousand  people  present  from  all  the  country  round,  selhng 
their  various  wares,  in  all  the  costumes  you  could  miagine. 
This  is  the  time  our  missionaries  got  out  to  work  among 
them.  It  was  an  interesting  sight  to  see  Brother  Fuller, 
Brother  Phihps  and  a  lot  of  our  missionaries,  standing  in  the 
centre  of  a  great  crowd,  and  preaching  to  them  in  Marathi 
with  an  animation  not  usual  in  English,  and,  as  one  and 
another  would  reply  from  the  crowd,  the  missionary  would 
turn  the  tables  on  the  questioner  until  he  was  glad  to  retire. 
The  faces  of  the  people  showed  deep  interest,  and  the  audi- 
ence lasted  as  long  as  the  speaker  had  strength  to  speak. 
Betwoen  the  addresses  the  stirring  Marathi  hymns  would  be 
sung  to  their  beautiful  melodies,  and  the  people  seemed 
always  glad  to  hear  them. 


■ANDS. 

ese  men  ;  but 
y  break  down, 
derstand  how- 
to  preach  to 
Madras  and 
,  for  a  time  at 
ig  them  tell- 
missionaries 
1  Akola,  have 
t  the  close  of 
ut  the  secret 
ce  such  lives 

i^eekly  bazaar 
,  at  least,  ten 
:ounfl,  selling 
•uld  imagine, 
work  among 
other  Fuller, 
anding  in  the 
n  in  Marathi 
,  as  one  and 
ionary  would 
lad  to  retire, 
and  the  audi- 
th  to  speak, 
ins  would  be 
(ople  seemed 


ROADSIDE     SCENE,  BERAR. 
A  "Kodak  "  photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 


OCR  WOUK  IN  liERAR. 


I6l 


This  delightful  Convention  closed  with  a  conununion  ser- 
vice on  Sabbath  afternoon,  and  an  anointing  service  on  Sab- 
bath night,  in  which  the  spirit  of  the  old  Tabernacle  meetings 
seemed  to  fall  upon  all  ;  and  at  length  we  parted  in  the  very 
fullness,  joy  and  victory  in  the  Holy  Ghost.  We  need  not 
add  that  the  children  were  as  happy  as  any  other  members  of 
the  party,  and  little  Georgie  Fuller  is  one  of  the  best  gospel 
singers  and  preachers  in  Marathi  that  go  to  the  bazaars. 

On  Monday  we  started  with  Mr.  Fuller  to  visit  the  vari- 
ous towns  of  Berar,  partly  to  see  our  missionaries  in  theix* 
homes,  and  partly  to  look  over  new  fields,  with  a  view  to  the 
placing  of  other  missionaries.  In  most  of  these  towns  we 
have  found  a  number  of  people  who  can  speak  English,  and 
have  had  several  pleasant  and  profitable  services  in  English. 
Among  others,  we  visited  the  capital  of  the  province,  Am- 
raoti,  a  fine  city  of  thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  found  it 
without  a  single  English  missionary.  It  is  a  very  interesting 
place.  There  are  many  English  officials  at  the  camp,  about 
two  miles  outside  the  town,  and  an  English  chaplaincy  with 
a  native  pastor  of  a  little  branch  of  the  Free  Church  of  Scot- 
land ;  but  in  the  heathen  city  of  Amraoti  itself  there  is  no 
English  or  American  missionary. 

We  got  a  tonga  and  irse  to  drive  around  the  city,  and 
we  had  a  most  interesting  t  me.  It  would  have  been  a  fine 
subiect  for  a  sketch  to  see  us  two  missionaries  on  that  cart, 
trying  t(»  go  forward  and  see  the  town,  and  in  front  of  us 
the  native  driver,  and  a  wicked  little  horse  that  would  only 
go  in  one  direction,  and  that  was  backward.     Sometimes  the 


m^mmmm 


1 62  LARGER  OUTLOOK'S  OX  AfLSS/OXARy  LAXDS. 

driver  would  beat  him,  but  it  only  mad«!  him  go  a  little  faster 
the  wrong  way.  Sometimes  he  would  pet  and  pat  him  on 
the  back,  l)ut  it  only  made  him  stop  and  refuse  to  go  at  all. 
Sometimes  Mr.  Fuller  would  assist  by  poking  him  vigorously 
with  his  umbrella,  but  it  made  no  impression— except  on  the 
umbrella.  Sometimes  the  driver  would  get  in  front  and  pull 
liim  along  by  main  strength,  and  sometimes  he  would  get 
behind  and  push  the  cart  and  horse  forward  in  spite  of  his 
resistance,  until  we  were  reminded  of  the  man  that  ciarried 
his  horse  to  town. 

Sometimes  the  pony  would  vary  the  performance  by 
kicking  backward  with  all  his  might,  but  fortunately  the 
bottom  of  the  cait  was  iron.  Occasionally  he  would  take  a 
notion  and  go  a  little  way,  but  he  always  stopped  when  he 
came  t<»  a  temple,  and  insisted  on  going  exactly  contrary  to 
the  way  the  driver  wanted  him.  The  street  boys  laughed  at 
us,  and  we  laughed  at  oui-selves  until  we  were  tired.  Finally, 
when  he  had  backed  us  arouna  for  about  two  hours,  we 
liappily  came  upon  another  driver,  and  gave  ours  up  amid 
the  i)rotestations  of  the  driver  that  he  would  be  all  right 
now,  and  took  the  other.  As  we  drove  out  to  the  camp  with 
the  second  pony,  which  was  an  excellent  one,  our  former 
driver  followed  us  and  passed  us  at  a  springing  i)ace,  to  let 
us  see  that  his  horse  was  all  right.  And  so  indeed  he  was. 
It  must  have  been  his  dislike  for  missionaries,  or  perhaps  the 
low  price  at  which  his  master  was  carrying  ns.  Two  can 
ride  nearly  a  whole  day  for  two  rupees  or  about  sixty  cents. 
We  got  more  than  the  worth  of  our  money  in  a  real  honest 


I'  LAXD.S. 

go  a  little  faster 
md  pat  him  on 
use  to  go  at  all. 
him  vigorously 
— except  on  the 
1  front  and  pull 
s  ho  would  get 
d  in  spite  of  his 
an  that  carried 

)erformance  hy 
fortunately  the 
e  would  take  a 
opped  when  he 
ctly  contrary  to 
)oyp  laughed  at 
tired.  Finally, 
two  hours,  we 
)  ours  up  amid 
lid  he  all  right 
)  the  camp  with 
me,  our  former 
ing  jjace,  to  let 
indeed  he  was. 
,  or  perhaps  the 
I  \i8.  Two  can 
ut  sixty  cents. 
a  a  real  honest 


OUR  WORK  W  BERAR. 


163 


laugh,  and  would  have  given  a  good  deal  for  a  photograph 

of  the  scene. 

Wo  witnf'sned  in  one  of  the  great  temples  of  Amraoti  no 


GROUP  AT  nAILftOAD  STATION. 
A  "Kodak '•  photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 

less  than  four  child  marriages.  In  one  of  these  the  bride 
was  about  eight  and  the  groom  twelve.  Both  were  very 
handsome.     The  pecuUarity  of  the  ceremony  was  the  tymg 


mn^'im  nmmvmmmK^mmam^mmmmmmm-'Ami^m-iwmi^^ 


164        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  .V/SS/OXAA')'  L.tXPS. 

ot  their  robt's  toKetlior  in  a  knot,  and  then  the  Hinearin^  of 
a  yellow  and  crimson  powder  over  both  of  tlienj.  Tlic  rest 
of  the  ceremony  was  inside  the  sacred  portion  of  the  temple, 
which  we  wero  not  permitted  to  '  ter.  Poor,  little,  pretty 
thing !  if  she  sbonld  become  a  w  idow  how  sad  her  fate 
wonld  be,  and  there  are  millions  of  such  widows  in  India. 

We  trust  ere  long  this  fine  old  city  will  be  the  scene  of  a 
gladder  sjjectacle,  and  that  many  a  littl«  one  shall  be  wedded, 
within  its  walls,  to  that  husband  who  will  never  cause  her 
heart  a  sorrow.  We  trust  that  it  will  be  opened  as  a  mission 
station  of  the  Alliance  before  the  close  of  the  year. 

We  found  some  Christian  people  here.  The  presence  of 
English-speaking  people  and  C  hristian  natives  in  so  many  of 
the  cities  of  India  is  a  wonderful  preparation  for  the  Gospel, 
giving  a  nucleus  for  the  work  in  each  place,  and  not  unlike 
the  little  companies  of  Jews  the  apostles  found  wherever 
they  went.  Then  there  are  excellent  roads,  and,  in  most 
cases,  fair  houses  can  be  obtained.  Besides,  there  is  a 
strong  English  government,  affording  the  best  protection  to 
life  and  property.  In  most  towns  there  is  a  public  inn  at  the 
depot,  maintained  by  the  government,  where  the  traveller 
can  get  comfortable  shelter. 

The  roads  are  superb,  and  the  best  of  public  conveyances 
can  almost  always  be  obtained,  and  a  little  money  will  go  a 
great  way.  Railway  travelling  is  very  cheap.  Money  is 
worth  more  than  twice  as  much  as  in  America.  A  coin,  the 
sixth  part  of  a  cent,  will  buy  a  good  deal.  And  a  rupee, 
thirty  cents,  is  pmctically  woith  nearly  a  dollar.     Roast  beef 


i^riFrifrifiT 


iteififtnr  •f-t^lWInfiili 


^  liiii^giSliiii^ 


le  8mearing  of 
lem.  The  rest 
of  tho  toiuple, 
r,  littlo,  pretty 

sad  luM-  fate 
WH  ill  India, 
the  scene  of  a 
lall  be  wedded, 
3ver  cause  lier 
id  as  a  mission 
year. 

lie  presence  of 
in  so  many  of 
'or  the  Gospel, 
nd  not  imlike 
>und  wherever 

and,  in  most 
;s,  there  is  a 
fc  protection  to 
iblic  inn  at  the 
3  the  traveller 

ic  conveyances 
oney  will  go  a 
ip.  Money  is 
.  A  coin,  the 
And  a  rupee, 
r.    Roast  beef 


Oth'  IIOA'A'  /X  /.'AV./A'. 


165 


costs  three  cents  a  pound,  and  oranges  much  superior  to  ours 
half  a  cent  apiece. 

The  land  is  most  wondrously  prepared  for  the  gospel.  It 
is  lying  at  our  feet,  for  us  to  go  in  and  occupy  it,  and  it  will 
be  an  everlasting  shame  if  all  its  villages  and  hamlets  are 


V^^    WTfi 


A  NATIVE  VILLAQE. 

not  taken  possession  (»f  foi-  Christ  by  the  end  of  the  nine- 
teenth century. 

And  yet  what  have  we  done  ?  Let  this  one  province  of 
Berar  speak  for  others.  Until  six  months  ago,  out  of  twelve 
great  counties  in  the  district  which  we  have  taken  as  our  field, 
containing  a  population  of  about  two  million  v^^pl©*  ^J^^  ^^ 


I  66       LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  M/SSIOXARY  LANDS. 


least  twenty-five  thousand  villages,  only  one  city  had  been 
permanently  occupied  by  any  English  missionary.  For 
nearly  two  hundred  miles  you  pass  along  the  great  railway 
line  between  Bombay  and  Calcutta,  from  Bhusawal  almost  to 
Nagpur,  through  scores  of  cities  which  are  great  cotton 
marts ;  cities  that  are  in  the  centre  of  dense  populations ; 
cities  that  iiave  English  officials  and  residents,  and  every  ac- 
companiment of  modern  civilization,  and  yet  in  all  this  great 
stretch  of  country,  until  six  months  ago,  there  was  but  one 
city,  Akola,  which  had  a  single  voice  to  tell  of  Jesus. 

God  has  laid  this  great  land,  out  for  us,  and  crossed  and 
recrossed  it  with  a  thousand  open  ways.  We  have  scarcely 
begun  to  occupy  it  yet.  Our  present  force  will  be  distributed 
along  one  hundred  miles  of  this  railway  line  by  the  end  of 
I  his  year ;  but  it  will  still  take  thousands  to  occupy  the  rest 
of  India  even  as  )nuch  as  this,  with  a  station  every  ^wenfcy- 
five  or  fifty  miles. 

We  do  thank  God  for  the  glorious  beginning  we  have 
seen.  In  eveiy  way  it  far  exceeds  our  expectations.  But, 
in  eveiy  way,  the  need  that  still  remains  as  far  exceeds  our 
highest  conception  hitherto.  Let  us  send  a  thousand  mis- 
sionaries to  India  in  the  next  five  years. 


3ESISS355 


LANDS. 

city  had  been 
issionary.  For 
e  gieat  railway 
sawal  almost  to 
e  great  cotton 
ie  populations  ; 
i,  and  every  ac- 
in  all  this  great 
■re  was  but  one 
I  Jesus. 

ind  crossed  and 
)  have  scarcely 
1  be  distributed 
e  by  the  end  of 
)ccupy  the  rest 

every  ^wenty- 

inning  we  have 

ctations.     But, 

'ar  exceeds  our 

thousand  mis- 


XI. 


BERAR  TO  NELLORE  AND  MADRAS. 

TWO  more  days  were  spent  in  visiting  our  stations  west 
of  Akola.      Wednesday  we  went  to   Khamgaon,   a 
beautiful  town  of  about  ir>,0(M)  inhabitants,  lying  a 
few  miles  south  of  the  main  i-ailway  line,  and  reached  by  a 
little  branch  line. 

We  have  seen  few  mission  fields  in  India  as  accessible  by 
railway  as  the  Berar  country.  It  is  easily  reached  from  Bom- 
bay by  missionaries  on  their  arrival,  and  almost  all  our  prin- 
cipal stations  are  on  the  great  trunk  line  of  railway  which 
runs  from  Bombay  to  Calcutta,  and  has  several  trains  daily. 
And  even  towns  like  Amraoti  and  Khamgaon  that  lie  off  the 
main  line  are  reached  by  branches.  After  one  has  travelled 
over  land  in  a  cart  fifty  or  a  hundred  miles,  as  many  of  our 
missionaries  have  to,  to  reach  their  field,  they  fully  appreciate 
this  advantage. 

Khamgaon  is  among  the  prettiest  of  the  Berar  towns.  Its 
people  are  of  the  better  class,  its  streets  are  cl«^au,  its  stores  and 
bazaars  have  quite  a  city  look,  and  everybody  seems  to  have 
a  certain  amount  cf  leisme,  and  to  be  in  easy  circum- 
stances. 


wim 


* 


i68 


LARGEk   OUTLOOKS  OX  ISIISSIONARY  LAXDS. 


We  drove  about  the  town  in  the  afternoon  in  the  bullock 
cart,  and  visited  the  Public  School  and  High  School,  and  had 
a  very  interesting  talk  with  the  principal  and  several  of  the 
teachers,  one  of  whom  is  the  pundit  or  teacher  of  some  of 
oui  missionaries  in  the  study  of  the  language.  We  found 
thoni  very  friendly,  and  willing  to  talk  freely.  They  are 
Brahmins,  representing  the  highest  caste.  But  they  did  not 
hesitate  to  say  to  us  :  "  The  caste  superstition  is  dying  out," 
and  when  we  called  their  attention  to  the  remark,  they  did 
not  try  to  explain  it  aAvay,  but  repeated  the  same  remark  a 
little  later. 

In  the  evening  we  had  a  meeting  in  the  Educational 
Hall,  attended  by  a  considerable  number  of  the  educated 
natives.  There  were  over  sixty  present,  with  a  few  Euro- 
peans. \>'e  spoke,  with  great  freedom,  of  the  power  of  the 
gospel,  and  pressed  it  home  upon  their  consciences  and  hearts 
in  the  consciousness  of  the  Holy  Spirit's  power  and  working. 
We  saw  much  of  the  same  feeling  here  that  we  have  already 
refened  to  at  Akola,  a  very  frank  and  open  spirit  and  a  dis- 
position to  listen  to  the  gospel  with  interest  and  fairness. 
Many  of  them  seem  to  be  under  deep  conviction,  but  none 
have  as  yet  broken  through  in  full  decision  for  God.  It  will 
cost  them  nuich  to  do  this,  for  behind  them  lies  not  only  the 
awful  bond  of  caste  and  the  certainty  of  being  henceforth  out- 
casts from  all  they  love,  but  also  a  network  of  sin  and  wrong 
which  it  would  w^reck  every  earthly  prospect  to  confess,  and 
take  all  they  possess  to  rectify. 


\ 


LANDS. 

in  the  bullock 
;hool,  and  had 
several  of  the 
er  of  some  of 
B.  We  found 
ly.  They  are 
t  they  did  not 
is  dying  out," 
lark,  they  did 
ime  remark  a 

e  Educational 
the  educated 
a  few  Euro- 
power  of  the 
ces  and  hearts 
and  working. 
e  have  already 
lit  and  a  dis- 
and  fairness, 
ion,  but  none 
•  God.  It  will 
5  not  only  the 
enceforth  out- 
sin  and  wrong 
J  confess,  and 


DERAR  TO  NRLLORE  AXD  MADRAS. 


169 


The  nucleus  of  tlie  future  chui-ch  at  Khamgaon,  at  pres- 
ent, consists  of  two  native  Christians, — Lakshan  and  Sarah — 
a  husband  and  wife,  the  family  servants  of  the  Missionary 
Home.  It  was  very  interesting  to  sit  down  at  night  and  hear 
from  them  the  story  of  their  conversion,  and  commend  them, 
and  all  that  shall  yet  be  gathered  with  them,  to  the  blessing  of 


GROUP  OF  HOUSEHOLD,  KHAMOAON. 
A  ' '  Kodak ' '  photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 

the  great  Shepherd,  who  already  knows  them  all  by  name 

before  they  are  born. 

»        The  next  morning  we  left  early,  in  Miss  Bates'  bullock 


wsm 


17 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MTSSIONARY  L^NDS. 


cart,  for  Shegaon,  eleven  miles  distant.  On  our  way  we 
passed  the  grave  of  Mr.  Scott,  a  faithful  missionary,  who 
came  out  in  connection  with  the  work  of  Dr.  Cullis,  and  laid 
down  his  life  for  Jesus  here,  eight  years  ago.  We  love  to 
recognize  the  worth  of  those  who  have  gone  before,  and  to 
believe  that  much  of  the  blessing,  that  is  now  coming  upon 
this  fair  city,  is  in  answer  to  the  dying  prayers  of  this  servant 
of  God  and  othei*s  who  have  labored  here  before. 

We  have  a  beautiful  missionary  home  circle  at  Kham- 
gaon,  and  could  oiu-  friends  at  home  look  for  a  few  moments 
at  the  sweet  picture  that  met  our  eye  in  the  bungalow,  with 
dear  Carrie  Bates  in  the  midst  of  the  little  household,  they 
would  not  think  it  such  a  melancholy  thing  to  be  a.  mission- 
ary. 

They  all  accompanied  us  to  Shegaon,  and  theirs  were 
among  the  last  faces  we  saw  as  we  left  Berar.  God  bless  the 
little  flock  at  Khamgaon  ! 

We  found  the  friends  at  Shegaon  waiting  to  receive  us. 
We  all  had  breakfast  together  and  found  the  little  bungaloAV 
fairly  comfortable,  but  not  quite  so  suitable  as  some  of  the 
others.  It  was  the  very  best  that  could  be  obtained  under 
the  circumstances,  and  Mr.  Fuller  was  only  too  glad  to  get  it 
in  the  pressure  of  the  large  arrival  of  missionaries.  But  the 
house  is  too  far  from  the  native  village,  and  not  suitable  for 
the  permanent  Missionary  Home.  It  will  be  difficult  to  ob- 
tain a  good  house  here,  and  if  oui  work  is  to  be  continued  in 
this  important  centre  we  shall  have  to  build  them  a  little 
Home.    After  breakfast  we  went  out  and  saw  the  town  and 


\ 


■yjtJ  ■  'j  WWWBMl  W  gJ 


rLVDS. 


our  way  we 


isionary, 


who 


lUis,  and  laid 
We  love  to 
)efoie,  and  to 
coming  upon 
•f  this  servant 

:\e  at  Khara- 
few  moments 
ngalow,  with 
usehold,  they 
be  a  missiou- 

1  theii's  were 
God  bless  the 

to  receive  us. 
ttle  bungalow 
1  some  of  the 
)tained  under 
glad  to  get  it 
•ies.  But  the 
t  suitable  for 
ifflcult  to  »jb- 
}  continued  in 
them  a  little 
;he  town  and 


■«?» 


\ 


BERAR  TO  XELLORE  AXP  MADRAS. 


171 


the  site  that  had  been  suggested  for  a  Home,  and  by  faith  we 
took  possession  of  it. 

Shegaon  is  an  important  city  on  the  G.  I.  P.  Railway,  the 
principal  railway  in  India.  It  is  about  forty  miles  west  of 
Akola,  and  an  important  cotton  market.  We  visited  an  im- 
mense cotton  press  here  that  gives  employment  to  a  large 
number  of  people.  It  is  a  County  Seat,  and  is  the  centre  of 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  people,  who  must  re- 
ceive the  gospel  from  this  centre. 

Our  friends  will  see  that  we  have  already  our  mission- 
aries stationed  at  four  important  centres  in  Berar,  viz.,  Akola 
in  the  centre,  Badnera  in  the  east,  and  Khamgaon  and  She- 
gaon  in  the  west.  Besides  these  there  are  seveial  other  im- 
portant County  Seats  where  we  hope  to  have  stations  planted 
before  the  close  of  the  year,  and  Mr.  Fuller  is  already  arrang- 
ing for  buildings. 

If  these  points  can  be  occupied  during  the  present  year, 
the  province  of  Berar  will  be  as  fully  occupied  by  missionary 
centres  as  any  district  of  India,  and  the  gospel  may  be 
preached  to  all  its  people  before  the  end  of  the  century. 
But,  after  this  is  done,  there  is  still  a  long  chain  of  cities  on 
the  same  railway  for  one  hundred  miles  west  of  Berar,  unoccu- 
pied. These  are  all  Marathi  people,  speaking  the  same  lan- 
guage as  the  people  of  Berar.  The  total  Marathi  population 
of  India  is  not  less  than  15,000,000,  and  it  is  doubtful  if  one- 
half  of  them  are  yet  within  reach  of  the  gospel. 

There  is  a  great  Marathi  population  in  Khandesh  and  the 
western  part  of  the  Nizam's  Dominions,  which  can  be  easily 


'"nH 


. 


172         LARGEH  OCTLOOk'S  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

reached  from  our  present  centres  in  Berar,  and  there  is  an 
equally  large  population  in  the  northern  and  north-eastern 
]»art  of  this  Dominion,  where  there  are  yet  no  missionaries, 
speaking  partly  Marathi  and  partly  Telugu,  and  these  can  be 
reached  from  our  eastern  Berar  stations,  so  that  we  have  yet 
room  in  connection  with  the  Berar  Mission  to  send  out  at 
least  one  hundred  more  missionaries  before  this  field  can  be 
even  fairly  occupied  in  its  great  centre  of  population.  With 
this  force  we  can  reach  about  eight  millions  of  people  who 
are  still  without  the  gospel. 

We  finally  left  our  friends  in  Berar  on  Thursday,  March 
9th,  just  twelve  days  after  landing  in  India.  It  was  a  little 
like  leaving  home  as  we  looked  into  their  dear  faces  once 
more,  and  thought  of  the  years  till  we  should  meet  again. 
We  were  so  glad  they  were  all  photographed  on  our  heart 
and  His.  We  almost  envied  our  brother  Fuller — with  that 
blessed  company.  Accompanied  by  Mr.  Fuller,  who  has 
kindly  given  us  his  precious  time  for  a  fortnight,  to  look  over 
the  larger  field  in  the  interests  of  our  common  work,  we 
started  again  on  our  journey. 

Indian  railways  are  not  like  American.  There  are  no 
sleeping  cars,  and  a  continuous  journey  of  two  or  three 
weeks  is  not  a  perfect  luxuiy.  You  take  your  travelling  rug 
and  pillow  with  you  and  just  lie  down  at  night  on  your  seat, 
if  there  is  room,  and  the  car  is  not  too  crowded.  Every  two 
or  three  days  you  can  stop  over  somewhere  long  enough  to 
get  a  good  bath,  and  you  feel  that  whatever  water  is  in  other 
countries  it  is  a  necessity  of  life  in  India. 


\ 


««> 


SESm 


AMDS. 

1  there  is  an 
loith-easfern 
missionaries, 
these  can  be 
we  have  yet 
send  out  at 
I  field  can  be 
ition.  Witli 
people  who 

•sday,  March 
t  was  a  little 
ir  faces  once 
meet  again, 
)n  our  heart 
r — with  that 
jr,  who  has 
,  to  look  over 
)n  work,  we 

rhere  are  no 
wo  or  three 
ravelling  rug 
)n  your  seat. 
Every  two 
g  enough  to 
er  is  in  other 


BRRAR  TO  X EI. LORE  AXD  MADRAS. 


175 


The  first  i)oint  we  desired  to  reach  was  Nellore,  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Telugu  mission  of  the  American  Baptist  Mis- 
sionary Union.  This  is  the  wonderful  work  whi.h  (Jod  has 
so  greatly  honored  in  the  past  ten  years  by  the  ingathering 
of  tens  of  thousands  of  souls  from  among  the  heathen. 

Our  journey  took  us  through  Ahmednagar,  the  seat  of 


TEMPLES  AT   NASIK. 

the  American  Marathi  Mission,  and  a  portion  of  the  Nizam's 
Dominions.  As  we  approached  the  east  coast  we  found  quite 
a  different  climate  and  country.  While  Berar  was  almost  in 
midsummer  and  all  the  fields  were  withered  and  the  crops 
harvested,  the  country  near  Madras  was  yet  in  much  of  the 
freshness  of  spring — the  jewaree  and  rice  were  wiving  in  the 
rich,  green  fields,  and  the  country  was  in  many  places  very 


B^' 


174 


LARGER  OUTLOOK'S;  ON  MLSSTOh'ARY  LANDS. 


lovely.  The  eastern  rains  come  later  than  the  western,  and 
the  vegetation  is  two  months  later. 

Nellore,  the  seat  of  the  Telugu  jnission,  is  a  district 
ahout  as  large  as  Berar,  lying  north  of  Madras,  on  the  coast. 
The  Telugu  people  are  a  Dravidian  race  numbering  about  as 
many  as  the  Marathi—1 0,000,000  people. 

The  student  of  Indian  missions  should  understand  the 
languages  of  India  or  he  will  never  be  able  to  iniderstand  its 
mission  work.  In  the  north  and  west  of  India  there  are 
seven  great  Aryan  languages  ;  viz.,  the  Hindi  spoken  by  one 
hundred  million,  the  Bengali  by  about  eighteen  millions,  the 
Punjaubi  by  twelve  millions,  the  Marathi  by  fifteen  millions, 
the  Sindi  by  about  three  millions,  the  Oria  by  five  millions, 
and  the  Gujerati  by  about  six  millions  of  people. 

In  Southern  India  there  are  four  principal  languages  be- 
longing to  the  Dravidian  people,  an  inferior  race,  who  were 
pushed  south  by  their  Aryan  conquerors.  These  are :  the 
Telugu,  spoken  by  sixteen  millions  in  eastern  India,  near 
Madras  ;  the  Tamil,  spoken  by  twelve  millions,  on  the  south- 
east coast,  below  Madras ;  the  Cannerese,  spoken  by  seven 
millions,  in  Mysore  chiefly ;  and  the  Malayallin,  spoken  by 
about  three  millions  of  the  people  of  south-western  India. 

Our  work  is  among  the  Marathi  people,  and  the  Baptist 
work  among  the  Telugus.  The  mission  was  planted  in 
Nellore,  about  fifty  years  ago,  by  Drs.  Jewett,  Day  and  other 
pioneers.  But  for  a  long  while  it  seemed  so  fruitless  that 
the  Board  was  again  and  again  on  the  eve  of  abandoning  it, 
and  many  a  prayer  went  up  to  the  Throne,  and  many  a  tender 


.ANDS. 
western,  and 

is  a  district 
on  the  coast, 
•ing  about  as 

iderstand  the 
nderstand  its 
dia  there  are 
poken  by  one 
I  millions,  the 
teen  millions, 
five  millions, 
e. 

languages  he- 
.ce,  who  were 
hese  are  :  the 
a  India,  near 
on  the  south- 
icen  by  seven 
n,  spoken  by 
tern  India, 
d  the  Baptist 
s  planted  in 
Day  and  other 
fruitless  that 
bandoning  it, 
nany  a  tender 


MR.  SIMPSON'S  COOLIE  CART,  ON  THE  ROAD  TO  RAMPATAN. 
A  "Kodak  "  photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 


'mnt^mfvmmmm 


JIER.IK  TO  KEI.LORF.  AND  MAHRAS. 


175 


N. 


appeal  for  tlie  "Lone  Star  Mission,"  as  it  was  called.  At 
length  the  showers  of  blessing  began  to  fall,  and  in  the  last 
twenty  y«'ars  more  than  thirty  thonsand  have  been  baptized 
and  gathered  into  the  various  churches  in  and  around  Nell- 
ore,  Ongole,  etc.  We  need  not  say  that  it  has  been  a  great 
joy  and  blessing  to  us  to  visit  this  blessed  work,  even  for  a 
single  Sabbath. 

We  reached  Xellore  at  noon  on  Saturday,  March  1  I ,  and, 
after  a  kind  welcome  from  the  dear  missionaries  there,  and 
a  visit  to  the  various  homes  and  schools,  we  determined  to 
go  out,  if  possible,  to  Ongole  for  the  Sabbath  ;  and  if  not,  at 
least  to  Rampatam  the  seat  of  their  Theological  Seminary. 

Our  journey  was  quite  a  romantic  one,  and  a  very  labo- 
rious one.  Ongole  was  seventy-three  miles  distant,  and 
there  was  no  railway  or  even  mail-coach.  Horses  could  not 
be  obtained  anywhere,  and  bullocks  would  take  days  for  the 
journey.  So  we  accepted  the  advice  of  the  missionaries,  and 
took  not  a  mail  coach,  but  literally  a  mule  coach  ;  that  is  to 
say,  we  engaged  a  dozen  Hindus,  called  Coolies,  aiid  two  ox- 
carts, and  our  Coolie  boys  just  harnessed  themselves  to  the 
carts  and  started  off  at  a  springing  pace.  After  running  ten 
miles  they  would  stop  on  the  road  and  shout  awhile  at  a 
country  village  until  a  dozen  new  Coolies  gathered,  and  these 
were  engaged  as. a  fresh  team  for  the  next  stage,  and  the 
others  walked  back.  We  gave  each  of  them  about  a  cent  a 
mile,  and  they  considered  it  good  pay.  The  carts  were 
pretty  rough,  and  had  no  springs  nor  seats ;  we  just  lay 
down  on  the  bottom  on  the  straw  covered  with  a  mat  and  a 
rug,  and  were  pretty  well  shaken  up  by  morning. 


1  I 


BPi^lMyj.r''Wipi|R44J:-#}:v;J:-%|l#li^^ 


^^?w^^.. 


T76         J.ARai'.R  OUTr.OOk'S  ON  .VISSIOXAKV  LANDS. 

And  so  we  started  off,  Mi-  Fuller  ui  one  cart  and  we  in 
the  other,  and  our  ("ot)lit'  bos:  inad<!  the  air  rinj?  with  their 
noisy  cries  as  they  dashed  away.  We  started  at  4  P.M.,  and 
♦ill  sunset  the  road  led  through  a  lovely  country,  green  with 
rice  fields,  and  lined  with  noble  pahns  and  banyarjs.  The 
sun  went  down,  and  still  we  rattle<l  on,  hour  aftei"  hour,  un- 
til at  4  A.M.,  after  twelve  hours'  riding,  we  cmiH  to  a 
halt. 

We  could  not  get  fresh  Coolies  for  sou.e  hmirs,  and  so, 
finding  that  we  could  not  reach  <  )ngo)«'  until  too  late  for  the 
Sabbath  morning  service,  and  that  vve,  would  nearly  lose  our 
day,  we  felt  the  Lord  would  have  us  stay  at  Rainpatani, 
where  wo  then  were.  So  we  turned  our  Coolies  up  the  lane 
that  led  to  the  Mission,  and  were  soon  inside  the  beautiful 
Mission  Compound,  and  welcomed  by  Di-.  Bog^s  and  his  kind 
wife,  at  that  early  morning  hour,  as  if  we  lad  been  old 
friends. 

We  had  a  most  delightful  day,  and  learn erl  almost  as 
much  of  the  Telugu  work  as  if  we  had  got  to  Ongole. 

We  attended  the  native  service  in  tlv  morning,  and  heard 
them  sing  their  weird  Telugu  hymns.  At  the  close  of  the 
morning  service  Dr.  Boggs  announced  that  we  would  preach 
in  the  evening  through  an  interpreter,  and  he  said  a  few 
kind  words  about  our  work  and  our  dependence  upon  the 
Holy  Ghost,  and  begged  them  to  come  prepared  to  receive  a 
great  blessing. 

This  seemed  to  +ouch  a  deep  spring  in  their  hearts,  for  just 
after  service  one  oi  Tin  r.  rive  Christians,  one  of  their  most 


■% 


IK 


cart  niul  wo  in 
rinjjC  with  theii' 
at  4  P.M.,  and 
try,  greon  witli 
banyans.  Tlic 
aftoi-  lu)ur,  iin- 
we  camH  to  a 

>  hmtrs,  and  bo, 
;oo  late  for  tlie 
nearly  lose  our 
at  Ram  pa  tarn, 
ies  up  the  lane 
e  the  beautiful 
;gs  and  his  kind 
e    »ad  been  old 

vn&\  almost  as 
Ongole. 

■uing,  and  lieurd 
he  close  of  the 
e  would  preach 
he  said  a  few 
[lence  upon  the 
•ed  to  receive  a 

'hearts,  for  just 
e  of  their  most 


nr.KAR  TO  NELLOKE  AND  MADttAS. 


177 


JiiWM*-  i^MitatmaMi  111*11  IB  ji,jluiii 


COOLIE  CART  AND  PARTY  UNDER  f  ANVAN  TREE,  NELLORE. 
A  "  Kodak  "  photograph  taken    >y  Mr.  Simpson. 

earnest  teachers  and  also  physician  nd  one  of  their  leading 
men,  came  over  to  the  bungalow,  and,  with  a  face  streaming 
with  tears,  and  a  look  we  shall  neve  forget,  asked  us  all  to 
pray  for  him  that  he  might  receive  i  e  baptism  of  the  Holy- 
Ghost.    Never  shall  we  forget  that  fa  e  and  the  cry  that  fol- 


J'lr' 


ff" 


178         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MLSS/ONARV  LANDS. 

lowed,  as,  with  liis  face  on  the  floor,  he  begged  God  to  give 
liim  His  greatest  gift.  We  spoke  a  few  words  and  pointed 
him  to  the  precious  promises  in  the  beginning  of  Isaiah  xliv., 
and  he  went  away  comforted.  '"* 

We  found  that  a  most  remarkable  movement  had  just 
broken  out  in  this  Mission,  from  which  greater  results  are 
lioped  than  even  the  revival  of  the  past  ten  years.  It  seems 
that  the  more  earnest  missionaries  have  been  feeling  very  anx- 
ious for  some  time  lest  the  work  among  great  masses  of  their 
people  should  prove  shallow  and  wholesale.  There  has  been 
much  j:>rayer  for  a  deeper  Christian  life  among  the  people, 
and  especially  the  preachers.  God  has  begun  to  answer  the 
prayer  in  a  very  strange  way.  A  few  months  ago  one  of  their 
most  prominent  native  preachers,— indeed,  the  man  most 
honored  and  trusted  for  piety  and  abiUty,— publicly  confessed 
to  many  things  in  liis  life  since  becoming  a  Christian,  that 
deeply  touched  the  whole  Mission,  and  then  with  deep  humil- 
ity he  asked  God's  mercy,  and  gave  himself  n.p  for  a  deeper 
consecration,  and  the  baptism  of  the  Holy  Spirit.  Since  then 
he  has  been  used  of  God  to  lead  many  of  their  people  into  a 
similar  experience,  and  the  mission  is  going  through  a  blessed 
breaking  uj)  that  would  alarm  many  if  they  did  not  under- 
stand God's  way  of  convincing  His  own  people  of  sin  that  He 
may  wholly  sanctify  them. 

For  ourselves  we  cannot  but  regard  this  as  a  most  hope- 
ful divine  movement,  intended  to  teach  both  missionaries  and 
people  the  absolute  need  of  a  deeper  work  of  grace,  if  the 
converts  are  to  retain  even  their  first  blessing.     The  coming 


iMHtaMa|PHi«-l 


"^y  LANDS. 

;ged  God  to  give 
/ords  and  jwinted 
igof  Isaiaii  xliv,, 

vement  had  just 
eater  results  are 
years.  It  seems 
feeling  very  anx- 
it  masses  of  their 
There  has  been 
long  the  people, 
m  to  answer  the 
s  ago  one  of  their 
[,  the  man  most 
)ublicly  confessed 
a  Christian,  that 
with  deep  humil- 
iip  for  a  deeper 
pirit.  Since  then 
eir  people  into  a 
;hrough  a  blessed 
y  did  not  under- 
)le  of  sin  that  He 

i  as  a  most  hope- 
missionaries  and 
:  of  grace,  if  the 
ig.    The  coming 


<M»BiaWHI.IWLk!lJ*SUftJXJ.it::Jg>'l!glf5aLJigM 


BERAR  TO  NELLORE  AND  MADRAS. 


179 


of  this  dear  physician  to  us  was  just  in  this  line.  In  the 
evening  service  we  tried  to  speak  to  these  dear  people  through 
the  voice  of  Dr.  Boggs.  and  although  we  felt  the  awkward- 
ness of  not  being  able  to  touch  them  directly  in  their  own 
tongue,  yet  we  believe  there  was  much  blessing,  and  at  the 
close  every  hand  was  raised  to  ask  and  receive  this  blessing, 
and  Di-.  Boggs  announced  a  continuance  of  the  services  on 
Monday  evening.  We  left  them  claiming  a  gi-eat  outpouring 
of  the  Holy  Ghost  upon  these  people. 

We  had  a  blessed  English  sei-vice  afterwards  with  the 
missionaries,  and  all  our  hearts  together  received  a  great 
uplift.  Many  precious  hours  were  spent  during  tb;*  «iay  in 
blessed  converse  with  these  dear  servants  of  Christ,  whose 
spirit  was  more  tender,  humble  and  full  of  holy  unction  than 
we  have  often  met,  and  we  learned  much  respecting  the  work 
of  God  among  the  Telugus,  and  the  yet  unoccupied  regions 
where  they  are  scattered. 

We  left  at  10  P.  M.  for  the  return  journey,  and  reached 
Nellore  in  twelve  hours,  and  found  our  dear  missionary 
friends  waiting  breakfast  for  us.  After  breakfast,  most  of 
the  members  of  the  Nellore  Church  were  gathered  in  the 
church  to  hold  a  service  for  us  here.  We  both  spoke  to  these 
dear  people  through  an  interpreter,  and  then  theii-  native 
pastor  asked  them  if  they  had  any  message  to  send  back  to 
America.  Never  shall  we  forget  the  dignity  and  the  tender- 
ness with  which  Julia,  one  of  the  oldest  converts  of  the  mis- 
sion, arose  and  said  : 

"I  want  to  thank  the  dear  friends  that  have  spoken  to 


mammmam 


4 


l8o        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

US  to-day,  and  to  ask  them  to  thank  the  dear  friends  in  Amer- 
ica that  have  sent  us  the  gospel  which  has  saved  us  from  oin* 
heathen  idolatry,  and  brought  us  cleansing  through  the  pre- 
cious blood  of  Jesus,  of  which  we  have  heard  to-day.  I  was 
one  of  the  first  converts  of  the  Mission  and  know  of  the 
labors  of  Mi\  Jewett,  Mr.  Day  and  others,  who  stood  firmly 


BAZWADA,  IN  THE  TELUQU  COUNTRY. 

by  us  and  urged  the  Board  to  stand  by  us  in  the  discouraging^ 
days  when  they  were  tempted  sorely  to  give  it  up.  Remem- 
ber us  to  all  the  friends  in  America,  and  ask  them  to  do  all  in 
their  power  to  send  the  gospel  to  our  perishing  people." 

This  is  a  little  of  what  Julia  said,  and  said  in  as  good 
grammar  as  we  have  used  and  almost  in  these  very  words. 
But  no  words  could  express  the  fervor  and  earnestness  with. 


am 


mSSm 


4Nns. 

ids  in  Amer- 
us  from  our 
jgh  the  pre- 
■day.  I  was 
enow  of  the 
stood  firmly 


■  i«0 


discouraging^ 
ip,  Eemem- 
m  to  do  all  in 
)eople." 
id  in  as  good 
3  very  words. 
lestness  with 


BERAR  TO  NELLORE  AND  MADRAS. 


x8i 


wmmf^mmammr, 


which  she  stood  there  and  spoke  for  the  30,000  Telugus  that 
have  given  their  hearts  to  Christ  in  the  past  twenty  years. 
We  can  give  our  readers  no  better  idea  of  it  than  by  reminding 
them  of  one  of  good  Mrs.  Bruce's  testimonies  in  the  Taber- 
nacle at  some  of  the  Friday  meetings.  She  was  followed  by 
he»-  husband,  also  an  old  convert  of  the  Mission,  and  his  re- 
marks were  most  dignified,  sensible  and  earnest.  Could  our 
friends  in  Am- 
erica have  seen 
these  dear  peo- 
ple, they  would 
have  felt  re- 
paid for  even 
years  of  wait- 
ing and  work- 
ing for  mis- 
sions. 

The     native 
pastor  also 

spoke  very  well  and  told  us  that  he  was  now  entirely  sus- 
tained by  his  own  church.  His  native  membership  exceeds 
seven  hundred.  One  can  scarcely  realize  the  joy  with  which 
we  grasped  the  hands  of  these  dark-skinned  Telugus,  and 
saw  in  them  the  types  of  the  precious  ones  we  yet  expect  to 
greet  from  our  own  work  in  Berar  and  elsewhere,  "if  we 
faint  not." 

Among  our  pleasant  surprises  at  Nellore  was  our  meet- 
ing with  Seetama,  a  dear  Hindu  woman  whom  we  had  met 


CATAMARANS,  MAORAS. 


W*^ 


l8a         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  .mSSTOXARY  LANDS. 

in  New  York  in  the  Tabernacle  a  few  months  ago,  and  who, 
while  studying  in  America,  had  often  come  to  our  church. 
It  seemed  like  home  to  see  the  "Alliance"  on  her  table, 
and  we  were  delighted  to  learn  that  she  is  the  wife  of  Veras- 
wamy,  the  native  preacher  whom  God  is  using  so  graciously 
in  deepening  the  spiritual  life  of  the  Telugus. 

We  left  Nellore  in  the  afternoon  and  reached  Madras 
early  the  next  morning.  We  found  ourselves  in  a  grand 
Oriental  City,  nine  miles  long,  and  containing  a  popxilation 
nearly  as  great  as  Bombay.  It  has  a  much  more  Oriental 
look  than  Bombay.  It  is  widely  spread  out  over  a  vast 
area. 

We  had  occasion  to  make  some  purchases  and  went  to 
two  or  three  of  the  largest  stores.  As  we  drove  in  at  the 
splendid  gateway  we  found  ourselves  in  a  magnificent  com- 
pound like  the  grounds  of  a  villa  ;  and  back  from  the  streets, 
like  an  elegant  mansion,  stood  the  store,  a  vast  establishment 
like  Arnold's  or  Macy's  inside,  but  outside  just  hke  some 
aristocratic  residence  and  grounds.  The  Elphinstone  Hotel, 
where  we  stayed,  was  like  an  old  paliace  with  an  appearance 
of  faded  grandeur.  The  residences  of  the  wealthy  Europeans 
are  usually  very  pretty  bungalows,  with  large  verandahs 
surrounded  by  rich  and  luxuriant  grounds  full  of  magnificent 
tropical  trees  and  plants.  The  colors  of  the  houses  are  gen- 
erally quite  rich— pink,  blue  and  white,  with  much  decora- 
tion. The  Hindu  quarters  have  all  the  squalor  of  other  India 
cities.  The  streets  are  picturesque  with  all  colors  of  dress 
and  all  kinds  of  people. 


B« 


'm^Mxim^tif^si 


igo,  and  who, 
)  our  church, 
on  her  table, 
wife  of  Veras- 
8o  graciously 

ached  Madras 
js  in  a  grand 
a  population 
more  Oriental 
t  over  a  vast 

s  and  went  to 
ove  in  at  the 
;nificent  coni- 
m  the  streets, 
establishment 
ust  like  some 
nstone  Hotel, 
m  appearance 
thy  Europeans 
'ge  verandahs 
)f  magnificent 
3uses  are  gen- 
much  decora- 
of  other  India 
olors  of  dress 


BERAR    TO  .\ELLORi:  AND  MADRAS. 


183 


The  women  of  eastern  India  are  much  less  dressed  than 
in  the  west ;  but  they  make  up  for  it  by  brilliant  colors, 
usually  wearing  a  bright  red  scarf,  loosely  thrown  over  one 
shoulder  and  gathered  closely  round  the  loins  and  reaching 
to  the  knees.  The  women  of  the  western  and  central  provinces 
carry  their  robe  over  the  entire  body  and  throw  it,  also,  very 


MAORA& 

gracefully  over  the  head.  The  eastern  people  are  nuich 
darker  than  the  western,  but  they  have  the  same  European 
features,  and  the  children  are  all  beautiful. 

Here  in  Madras  we  saw,  for  the  first  time,  the  Coolies 
drawing  the  ox-carts  in  the  streets,  and  acting  instead  of 
oxen  or  draught  horset;  in  canying  most  of  the  freight  and 
merchandise  through  the  city.     It  seems  so  strange  to  see 


sit: 


|S4        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS, 

men,  barefooted  and  almost  naked,  drawing  a  great  cart  filled 
with  bales  of  goods,  perhaps  a  ton  in  weight,  along  the 
street. 

Prices  are  extremely  low.  For  a  few  shillings  we  got  a 
carriage  for  a  whole  day  and  8a^■■  a  great  deal  of  the  city. 
There  are  fine  gardens  and  an  excellent  museum,  containing 
specimens  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  life  of  the  whole  coun- 
try, and  especially  of  Southern  India,  and  also  many  inter- 
esting works  of  art  from  the  ancient  temples.  There  was  a 
tremendous  tiger,  and  one  could  well  believe  that  the  strong- 
est lion  is  a  plaything  before  his  superior  strength.  These 
lordly  and  dangerous  brutes  are  still  sometimes  met  with, 
even  by  our  missionaries,  in  the  hills,  and  we  have  heard 
already  some  personal  testimonies  from  missionaries  here,  of 
their  providential  escapes.  There  were  endless  varieties  of 
monkeys  and  other  animals,  and  plants  and  trees  in  great 
variety. 

One  of  the  most  touching  sights  of  the  day  was  a  drive 
to  the  place  of  burning,  where  the  Hindus  cremate  the  bod- 
ies of  their  dead.  It  is  a  great  cemetery,  where  we  saw  pile 
after  pile  on  which  the  mounds  of  earth  and  ashes  of  calcined 
bones  were  still  smoking.  As  we  came  out  we  met  a  funeral 
procession  just  entering.  The  father  was  carrying  his  dead 
baby  in  his  arms.  A  lad  was  going  before,  whistling  through 
a  shell  the  most  weird  and  mournful  dirge.  There  was  a 
little  company  of  boys  and  men  following  behind.  There 
were  no  women.     They  were  at  home. 

That  father  would  lay  that  little  body  on  one  of  these 


1 


ANDS, 

reat  cart  filled 
ht,  along  the 

ings  we  got  a 
1  of  the  city, 
m,  containing 
9  whole  coun- 
)  many  inter- 
There  was  a 
at  the  strong- 
jngth.  These 
les  met  with, 
e  have  heard 
laries  here,  of 
is  varieties  of 
trees  in  great 

f  was  a  drive 
nate  the  bod- 
3  we  saw  pile 
les  of  calcined 
met  a  funeral 
■yiug  his  dead 
tling  through 
There  was  a 
jhind.     There 

one  of  these 


T 


BERAR  TO  NELLORE  AND  MADRAS. 


I8S 


mounds,  on  a  pile  of  wood,  then  they  would  heap  up  over  the 
body  a  pile  of  sticks  and  dried  manure  (their  fuel  here),  and 
then  they  would  set  it  on  fire  and  sit  and  watch  till  a  loud  re- 
port proclaimed  that  the  skull  )iud  burst  and  the  work  of  dis- 
solution was  begun.     Then  they   would  go  home  to  their 


TOWER  OF  SILENCE,  MALABAR  POINT,  BOMBAY. 

cheerless  hut  without  a  ray  of  our  glorious  hope.  We  turned 
away  so  sad  and  yet  so  glad  ;  so  sad  for  them,  so  glad  for 
Jesus  and  our  hope  in  Him. 

The  Parsees  have  a  yet  sadder  funeral  rite.     At  Bombay 
they  take  you  to  their  "Towers  of  Silence,"  where  they  ex- 


lJillJ)liaUUI'4.W.!»il'--'MfatWJlj^JHt.«'< 


— ail 


i86 


LARGER  OVTLOOKS  (hV  .AflSSlOXARY  LANDS. 


pose  the  bodies  of  their  dead  to  be  dev.nu-ed  by  the  vultures 
and  other  birds  of  prey.  They  worshi])  the  elements — air  and 
fire  -  and  they  believe  that  the  decomposing  bodies  of  the  dead 
defile  them.  And  so  they  carry  them  to  a  lone  tower,  where 
the  priests  receive  them  and  carry  them  aloft  while  the  friends 
return  to  their  homes.  Tlie  vultures  are  always  waiting;  to 
do  their  dreadful  work.  Think  of  these  sad  sights,  beloved 
Christians  of  America,  and  while  you  thank  God  for  the  light 
and  love  that  Christianity  has  gathered  around  the  toml) — 
pray— 'pray — pray  for  poor  India, 

We  saw  a  few  of  the  missionaries  and  learned  something 
of  the  Christian  work  of  the  city.  We  dined  at  the  American 
Baptist  Mission,  meeting  three  of  their  dear  workers  who  are 
engaged  respectively  in  the  English,  Telugu  and  Tamil  work 
in  Madras.  We  took  afternoon  tea  with  the  good  missionary 
of  the  Methodist  Church  and  his  good  wife.  We  found  them 
in  the  midst  of  a  precious  revival.  We  were  glad  to  learn 
that  our  dear  brother,  Kev.  Henry  Varley,  of  England,  had 
just  closed  his  special  services  in  the  Tent  formerly  used  by 
Dr.  Pentecost,  amid  great  blessing,  the  audiences  having  in- 
creased up  to  the  end. 

We  found,  as  we  expected,  two  das^  os  of  missionaries 
and  two  kinds  of  work.  The  one  is  spiritual  and  evangelistic 
and  the  other  educational,  secular,  conservative,  and  not  un- 
like the  worldly  element  in  the  church  at  home.  We  have 
been  glad  to  find  much  more  of  the  former  cla!;s  than  we  ex- 
pected, and  to  find  it  most  catholic,  humble,  earnest,  hungry 
for  a  deeper  spiritual  life  ;  and  aggressive  and  evangelistic  in 
its  work.     We  have  come  less  in  contact,  as  might  be  ex- 


\. 


iMaai 


ANDS. 

"  the  vultures 
ents — air  iin«l 
esof  the(l«'H(l 
tower,  where 
lie  the  friends 
5^8  waiting  to 
ghts,  beloved 
for  the  light 
1  the  toml) — 

ed  something 
:he  American 
kers  who  are 
I  Tamil  work 
•d  missionary 
^  found  them 
glad  to  learn 
^^ngland,  had 
iierly  used  by 
es  having  in- 

missionaries 
1  evangelistic 
,  and  not  un- 
e.  We  have 
I  than  "we  ex- 
•nest,  hungry 
vangelistic  in 
might  be  ex- 


BEPAK  TO  XF.I.r.OR/-:  .l.\'/>  M.WRAS. 


187 


pected,  with  tlw  other  element,  but  have  heard  mueb  alxnit 
it  and  its  injurious  influences  upon  the  missionary  work  «>f 

India. 

It  is  represented  in  Madras  by  the  ( 'hristiau  College.  This 
is  a  splendid  Univei-sity,  presided  over  by  a  minister  and  f(»r- 
mer  missionary  of  the  Seotch  Presbyterian  Church.  It  has 
nineteen  hundred  students,  not  only  from  European  families 
but  the  leading  Hindu  families.  It  easily  leads  all  the  educa- 
tional institutions  of  the  East  in  its  high  literal y  standing.  It 
is  tlu^  development  of  the  educational  work  which  the  Scottish 
church  has  always  made  so  prominent,  and  in  which  such 
gi-eat  and  good  men  as  Drs.  Duff  and  Wilson  labored  so  suc- 
cessfully. 

But  what  is  it  doing  for  Missions  ?  It  is  purely  secular, 
teaching  the  liible.  it  is  true,  but  only  as  a  literary  work,  and 
carefully  guarding  against  anything  that  could  give  offense  to 
its  Hindu  c;onstituency.  It  has  even  been  said  that  the  con- 
version and  i)ublit;  confession  of  one  of  the  students  would  be 
regardi'd  as  an  embarrassr  .ent,  ^<\.  might  break  up  the  con- 
stituency that  supports  it.  Its  aim  seems  to  be  to  bring  the 
Hindus  into  European  culture,  and  then  hope  that  by  a  sec- 
ond stage— .sometime  later— they  may  come  into  Christianity. 
One  of  the  missionaries  characterized  it  as  ''non-sectarian 
and  non-relujiovs:'  This  is  not  a  high  compliment  for  a 
Christian  College. 

Thank  God,  this  is  not  the  work  for  which  Christ  has 
sent  our  missionaries  to  India.  And  thank  Him  still  more 
that  this  is  not  the  purpose  and  work  of  very  many  of  ihe 
best  missionaries  of  India, 


li:| 


\ 


XII. 


MADRAS  TO  BOMBAY. 

THE  Hist  iinpulso  that  comes  to  you  when  you  look  at  a 
hoautiful  or  interesting  object  is  to  shaio  your  pleas- 
ure with  some  one  else.   How  often  have  we  wished, 
since  we  have  been  in  India,  t^iat  we  could  take  all  our  friends 
along  with  us  I 

A  thoroughly  satisfactoi-j  visit  to  India  and  its  mission- 
aries would  require  at  least  a  year.  A  rapid  journey  of  five 
weeks  through  a  country  as  large  as  the  United  States^  east 
of  the  Mississippi  River,  can  only  include  its  larger  cent'-es, 
and  enable  oven  the  most  attentive  observer  to  form  first  im- 
pressions. But,  I'ke  true  instincts,  these  have  a  certain  value 
that  later  study  and  observation  will  only  confirm,  especially 
if  we  have  learned  to  look  at  things  in  some  measure  with 
the  Lord's  eyes  and  with  reference  to  His  work  and  His 
gloiy. 

Leaving  Madras  at  sunset  we  awoke  next  morning  in  the 
beautiful  cantonment  of  Bangalore. 

This  is  considered  tlie  most  beautiful  city  of  Southern 
India.  It  has  many  English  residences,  and  is  full  of  handsome 
bungalows  occupied  by  wealthy  army  officers  and  other  for- 
eigners. These  bungalows  are  built  in  thoroughly  Hindu  style, 


^Mmwmii 


mm 


you  look  at  a 
le  your  pleas- 
ve  we  wished, 
all  our  friends 

d  its  inission- 
^urney  of  five 
id  States,  east 
irger  cent"es, 
form  first  im- 
i  certain  value 
rin,  especially 
measure  with 
vork  and  His 

lorning  in  the 

'■  of  Southern 
I  of  handsome 
nd  other  for- 
r  Hindu  style, 


m 


u 

IE 
O 

_l 


4 


lil 

3 

z 

2 


MADRAS  TO  fiOA/BA  >'. 


i8g 


with  low,  tiled  roofs,  wide  verandahH,  colossal  ])illais,  rich 
colors  on  walls  and  roofs,  ii.ngnillccnt  a|){)roaclu'S  through 
Bplendid  {^rounds  lillod  with  palms,  hanyans,  mango  troos  and 
all  tho  affluence  of  trojjical  flowers  and  i)lants.  The  po[)ula- 
tion  of  the  city  is  nearly  200,000,  hut  it  covers  n  great  space. 
The  streets  are  wide  and  tho  private  grounds  around  tho  va- 
rious hungalows  are  spacious.  The  Government  offices  and 
the  Rajah's  Palace  are  very  handsome  huildings. 

Bangalore  is  tho  chief  city  of  Mysore,  a  large  independ- 
ent state  of  India.  There  are  several  of  these  great  native 
states.  Their  rulers  were  loyal  to  the  English  during  times 
of  trouhle  in  tho  past,  and  they  have  been  allowed  to  retain 
the  sovereignity  of  their  states  under  the  oversight  of  an 
English  resident,  who  exercises  somewhat  tlie  same  relation 
to  the  native  Government  that  the  British  Resident  does  to 
the  Egyptian  Khedive. 

Among  the  largest  of  these  native  Principalities  are 
Hyderabad,  the  Nizam's  Dominions,  Mysore,  Baroda,  Guzerat 
and  Rajpootana.  Mysore  is  a  very  fine  country.  Its  popu- 
lation cannot  be  less  than  eight  or  ten  millions.  Its  chmato 
is  very  fine.  It  is  never  very  hot  xt  Bangalore,  and,  of 
course,  it  is  never  very  cold.  We  had  very  fine  raspbomes 
for  breakfast  at  the  Baptist  Mission  at  Bangalore,  and  we  be 
lieve  they  have  them  all  the  year  round.  The  altitude  is  very 
high,  the  whole  plain  being  several  thousand  feet  above  the 
sea. 

"We  got  into  touch  with  the  Christian  work  of  the  city. 
We  visited  the  Methodist  and  Baptist  Mission  and  saw  the 


\ 


MHi 


g^. 


immmmmmx-mKmmr, 


190        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

Baldwin  Boys'  School  which  had  over  one  hundred  hoys  in 
attendance  ;  also  the  Girls'  Home,  presided  over  by  Mrs. 
Baker.  We  met  several  missionaries  at  the  American  Bap- 
tist Mission,  including  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Armstrong,  of  Maul- 
main,  whom  we  had  met  on  the  way.  Dr.  McLaurin  has 
charge  of  the  Baptist  work,  and  especially  of  the  Literary  and 
Publishing  Department.  We  need  not  say  that  we  met  the 
same  large-hearted  Christian  hospitality  here  which  we  had 
already  experienced  at  Nellore  and  Rampatam. 

At  the  home  of  the  English  Baptist  missionary  we  had 
the  pleasure  of  meeting  again  our  dear  brother.  Rev.  Henry 
Varley,  of  England,  who  had  just  closed  his  special  services 
in  Madras,  and  was  beginning  similar  meetings  in  Bangalore. 
He  had  been  much  encouraged  with  the  results  of  the  Mad- 
ras work.  The  tent  formerly  used  by  Dr.  Pentecost  had  been 
crowded  every  night,  and  much  deep  and  spiritual  interest 
had  been  manifested.  Many  of  the  students  had  come  to 
talk  with  him,  and  some  of  the  wealthy  Hindus  had  contrib- 
uted toward  the  expenses  of  the  meetings  in  such  a  way  as 
to  show  their  deep  interest.  He  hopes  to  return  next  year 
and  continue  his  work.  His  meetings  are  attended  by  many 
Europeans  and  Eurasians,  and  also  by  many  Hindus. 

There  is  among  the  educated  natives  a  very  great  willing- 
ness to  attend  Enghsh  meetings,  and  it  would  not  be  difficult 
at  any  time  in  many  of  the  larger  cities  to  get  several  hun- 
dred of  them  to  come  together  for  many  nights,  to  listen  to 
an  interesting  speaker  on  the  truths  of  Christianity.  Nor 
can  there  be  any  doubt  that  they  are  often  much  moved,  and 
many  of  them  very  seriously  considering  the  claims  of  Christ 


I 


'MJlijiiu^i-iia-aJMii. 


,-li..l!.l^iS 


'.AMDS. 

adred  boys  in 
over  by  Mrs. 
Lmerican  Bap- 
ong,  of  Maul- 
McLaurin  has 
e  Literary  and 
t  we  met  the 
which  we  had 

onary  we  had 
r,  Rev.  Henry 
pecial  services 
in  Bangalore. 
5  of  the  Mad- 
jcost  had  been 
'itual  interest 

had  come  to 
3  had  contrib- 
;uch  a  way  as 
u'n  next  year 
aded  by  many 
indus. 

great  willing- 
lot  be  difficult 

several  hun- 
s,  to  listen  to 
jtianity.  Nor 
;h  moved,  and 
lims  of  Christ 


vm&imiis:S!m<i?9S^!!S>& 


MADRAS  TO  liOMBAY. 


191 


upon  their  own  hearts.  In  a  few  cases  they  have  yielded  to 
the  strong  considerations  which  God  has  been  pressing  upon 
them,  and  come  out  unreservedly  on  the  side  of  Christ,  bear- 
ing to  the  end  the  heavy  cross  which  it  involves  for  them. 


A  NATIVE  FUNERAL. 

But,  notwithstanding  all  this,  the  fact  remains,  as  an  old 
missionary  said  to  us  this  week  :  "  The  solid  wall  of  Hindu- 
ism has  not  yet  been  even  shaken." 

Most  of  the  converts  have  been  from  the  outcast  races, 
the  Pariahs  of  India.    The  great  castes  have  not  been  broken 


KaeE^BaHBSi»3^^^@aM!ia«iia£^;5|f?^ 


192         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

through,  or  to  any  great  extent  brought  under  the  influence 
of  tho  Gospel.  But  Mr.  Varley's  meetings  have  reached 
many  of  these  people  with  a  kind  of  truth  they  have  not  very 
often  heard. 

They  are  quite  familiar  with  Christianity  as  a  religious 
system,  and  have  heard  much  of  its  principles  and  philoso- 
phy. But  we  are  glad  to  say  that  Mr.  Varley  is  meeting 
them  in  quite  a  different  fashion  from  the  average  lecturer 
and  literary  writer.  With  the  boldness  of  a  true  minister  of 
Jesus  Christ,  he  is  telling  these  proud  men  to  their  faces  of 
the  supreme  claims  of  the  Son  of  God,  and  ridicuHng  the 
idea  of,  for  a  moment,  comparing  them  with  the  unholy 
pretensions  of  their  so-called  Incarnations  of  the  Deity.  He 
is  bearing  down  upon  their  conscience  with  the  great  ques- 
tions of  sin  and  accountability,  and  presenting  the  living 
truths  and  facts  of  evangelical  Christianity  in  the  power  of 
the  Spirit,  and  many  of  them  are,  no  doubt,  deeply  im- 
pressed. 

We  believe  God  will  send  many  more  sach  messengers  to 
the  people  of  this  land,  and  that  there  will  yet  be  a  breaking 
down  of  great  numbers  which  will  fill  the  hearts  of  God's  pray- 
ing and  believing  children  with  great  joy.  What  the  people 
of  India  need  most  is  spiritual  power.  There  has  been  much 
intellectual  work,  and  they  can  match  our  culture  with  cul- 
ture, too.  But  they  cannot  resist  the  power  of  conscience 
and  the  Holy  Ghost,  the  living  facts  of  a  holy  life,  and  a  tes- 
timony which  carries  with  it  the  conviction  of  divine  reality 
and  power. 

From  Bangalore  we  passed  through  the  Mysore  country 


\ 


wmm 


LANDS. 

the  influence 
have  reached 
have  not  very 

as  a  rehgioua 
and  philoso- 
ey  is  meeting 
;rage  lecturer 
le  minister  of 
their  faces  of 
ridiculing  the 
1  the  unholy 
le  Deity.  He 
le  great  ques- 
ig  the  living 
the  power  of 
t,  deeply  im- 

nessengers  to 
be  a  breaking 
Df  God's  pray- 
at  the  people 
as  been  much 
ure  with  cul- 
of  conscience 
fe,  and  a  tes- 
divine  reality 

'^sore  country 


lllilKWWiiiiWiBgaWliilliaiMMI^^ 


a^ 


I 


mmmea 


Sr!?=*.«jr^' 


SCENE  ON  ROAD  TO  MAHABELASHUR. 
A  "  Kodak  "  photograph  takeu  by  Mr.  Simpson. 


^mm 


iiiffiifja'; 


MADRAS  TO  ItOMIiAY. 


^93 


and  then  up  through  the  South  Marathi  country  to  Watiar, 
a  station  in  the  Krishna  Valley,  ahout  one  hundred  miles 
south  of  Poona.  Here  we  left  the  train  and  took  a  pony 
tonga  for  forty  miles  up  into  the  Western  Ghauts,  tor  the 
purpose  of  visiting  some  dear  friends  at  the  lovely  mountain 
retreat  at  Mahabelashur,  which  the  American  ^')ard  has 
selected  as  a  summer  home  for  all  their  missionaries  during 
the  hot  season.  This  delightful  spot  is  situated  at  the  sum- 
mit of  the  Western  Ghauts,  about  5,U00  feet  above  the  sea. 
In  the  hot  season  of  India,  which  lasts  three  months— from 
the  middle  of  March  to  the  middle  of  June, — it  is  a  very  de- 
lightful residence,  the  temperature  seldom  rising  above  SO 
degrees,  and  the  air  being  most  bracing  and  invigorating. 

We  cannot  agree,  for  our  work  at  least,  with  the  policy 
of  planning  for  a  regular  suspension  of  w^ork  every  hot  sea- 
son, and  surrendering  to  the  heat  on  merely  natural  princi- 
ples. We  believe  the  power  and  life  of  Christ  can  carry  our 
dear  workers,  who  trust  Him,  through  hot  weather  as  well 
as  other  trying  circumstances,  and  we  feel,  while  not  criticis- 
ing the  action  of  other  missionaries  or  societies,  that,  for  our 
workers,  feeling  and  believing  as  they  do,  it  would  be  losing  a 
great  blessing  to  make  up  their  minds  to  the  necessity  of  a 
vacation  every  hot  season.  At  the  same  time  we  should  have 
some  cool  and  quiet  place  where,  in  special  cases,  those  who 
really  need  it  and  are  not  able  to  i*ise  above  the  pressure,  can 
go  for  a  short  time. 

We'  found  the  drive  to  Mahabelashur  very  delightful. 
We  started  at  4  A.  M.  from  the  railway  station,  and,  as  the 


li'l 


194       lARCER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSTONARY  LANDS. 

suu  rose,  we  crossed  the  beautiful  river  Krishna,  and  looked 
down  a  long  line  of  temple  spires  lining  its  banks,  and  telling 
of  the  idolatry  of  heathenism.  We  found,  on  calling  at  the 
home  of  the  missionary  who  occupies  this  field,  that  it  was, 
indeed,  the  very  stronghold  of  Brahmanism  ;  but  the  light  of 
the  Gospel  is  beginning  to  penetrate  some  of  the  homes.  As 
we  ascended  the  Ghauts,  the  vegetation  grew  more  and  more 
luxuriant.  Tlie  wild  ioses  grew  in  great  festoons  along  the 
roadside  and  climbed  up  over  the  trees,  hanging  in  clusters 
of  a  dozen  together  like  great  bouquets  of  pink  and  crimson. 
The  highest  point  is  quite  thickly  wooded  with  very  beauti- 
ful trees,  and  the  views  are  superb. 

Our  friends  took  us  out  to  Sidney  Point,  and  we  found 
ourselves  on  a  narrow  promontory  of  naked  rock  running  out 
like  a  sharp  tongue  several  hundred  feet,  and  not  more  than 
tv/elve  wide  at  the  point.     On  each  side  was  a  deep  gorge  at 
least  2,000  feet  deep,  and  on  one  side  it  was  a  perpendicular 
cliff;  on  the  other  it  was  almost  perpendicular.     It  made  one's 
head  dizzy  to  look  down  those  almost  fathomless  gorges. 
We  could  easily  understand  how  the  story  might  be  true  that 
a  young  and  foolhardy  Englishman  once  presumed  to  drive  his 
dog  cart  out  on  that  narrow  ridge  one  day,  and  the  horse,  be- 
coming nervous,  dashed  over  the  precipice  with  his  reckless 
driver  into  the  abyss  below.     On  a  clear  day  you  can  see  the 
Indian  Ocean  across  the  plain  which  is  about  fifty  miles  wide. 
We  found  our  dear  friends,  the  Bruces,  in  a  very  pleas- 
ant home,  and  spent  some  very  delightful  hours  with  them. 
Mr.  Bruce,  besides  having  charge  of  the  great  district  of  Sat- 


wmmmimmif!!'B9sa!SSis'9Bimrm 


A')-  LANDS. 

fishna,  and  looked 
banks,  and  telling 
on  calling  at  the 
1  field,  that  it  was, 
I ;  but  the  light  of 
>f  the  homes.  As 
iw  more  and  more 
estoons  along  the 
-nging  in  clusters 
pink  and  crimson, 
with  very  beauti- 

nt,  and  we  found 
rock  running  out 
id  not  more  than 
LS  a  deep  gorge  at 
5  a  perpendicular 
ir.     It  made  one's 
ithomless  gorges, 
light  be  true  that 
3umed  to  drive  his 
ind  the  horse,  be- 
with  his  reckless 
T  you  can  see  the 
t  fifty  miles  wide. 
,  in  a  very  pleas- 
liours  with  them, 
it  district  of  Sat- 


8CENE  ON  ROAD  TO  THE  GHAUTS. 
A  "  Kodak  "  photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 


'-  fBKES^fflC  i^SKf^:  - 


M.IDRAS    TO  JlO.VliAy. 


195 


tara,  with  a  million  souls  in  it,  has  also  a  special  work  of  pub- 
lication on  hand.  He  has  issued  many  excellent  tracts  and 
books,  and  has  been  especially  happy  in  his  series  of  Gospel 
leaflets  in  Marathi.  We  hope  to  give  our  friends,  later,  a  sam- 
ple of  one  of  these.  It  is  the  verse  John  iii  :  16,  in  Marathi, 
and  our  missionaries  are  indebted  to  him  for  many  thousands 
of  these,  which  they  distribute  freely,  as  well  as  many  other 
tracts  and  illustrated  leaflets  which  he  gratuitously  distrib- 
utes. 

Miss  Bruce  is  assisting  her  father  in  this  and  other  liter- 
ary work,  and  is  now  about  to  undertake  a  fiu-ther  task  in 
connection  with  a  monthly  Sunday  School  paper  in  Marathi, 
connected  with  the  work  in  India.  We  were  delighted  to 
find  her  hands  and  heart  so  full  of  bright  and  blessed  work 
for  God.  In  addition  to  her  ordinary  work,  she  has  just  com- 
pleted, with  the  assistance  of  a  friend,  a  translation  of  the 
"Gospel  of  Healing  "  into  Marathi. 

We  found  a  number  of  other  missionaries  also  at  this 
place  of  rest,  and  in  the  evening  we  had  a  i^leasant  and  profit- 
able missionary  meeting.  There  were  ten  members  of  the 
Presbyterian  Marathi  Mission  from  the  Kolapur  field,  includ- 
ing some  old  friends.  Miss  Jefferson,  late  of  the  City  Mission 
at  home,  and  Mr.  W^ilder,  who  is  so  well  known  in  America 
among  the  Student  Volunteers.  He  has  been  working  among 
the  students  of  India  and  is  now  in  infirm  health  and  resting 
at  Mahabelashur.  We  had  a  blessed  meeting  and  many  re- 
ceived new  inspiration  for  life  and  work. 

There  was  much  conference  respecting  the  needs  of  the 


^x4JMftM|M| 


t  »at»CV.'ylTS-^'OJ»Cl.-;Uifc:£lta..^i^«--^ 


'''^^^'fnimJI 


?if??  'f^  ^5^"^/  ^irt"?  %HT}  ^Jirflif  3Jr4l  ^I'nfti  w^  ^tRJifru: 
s^iRT  ^i4»WM  3rnn^  jijw  ^  »Tw'?if  vjfri^n''^  <r»rr- 


FAC-8IMILE  OF  A  PAQE  OF  THE  "OOSPEL  OF  HEALINQ,''  IN  THE  MARATHI  LANQUAQE^ 


r'^'itifriiii 


iNMI 


WI'ITF 

"mm- 


^RATHI  LANQUAQE. 


Bij8J.j„la^Ai4J.k»;.!.qtt.s 


MAPk'.lS   TO  JIOM/IAV. 


197 


field,  especially  the  Marathi  country,  and  we  found  that  there 
were  yet  many  great  districts  even  in  the  south  and  west, 
scores  of  towns  and  hundreds  and  even  thousands  of  villages 
tiuit  have  never  yet  been  visited  hy  a  missionary.  Even  where 
old  missions  have  heen  planted  for  thirty  or  forty  years  in 
some  central  city,  yet  many  villages  and  districts  at  a  dis- 
tance from  this  centre  have  never  been  visited.  We  believe, 
after  careful  inquiry,  that  of  the  15,()()(),()()(>  of  Marathi  people 
in  Western  India,  at  least  one- half  are  yet  beyond  the  reach 
of  any  means  of  hearing  the  Gospel,  and  we  fear  this  is  true 
of  almost  all  other  parts  of  India. 

We  left  this  lovely  mountain  top  on  Saturday  morning 
at  daylight,  and  after  a  tonga  ride  of  seven  houis  and  a  rail- 
way journey  of  seven  more,  we  reached  the  beautiful  city  of 
Poona  on  Saturday  evening.  We  were  met  at  the  depot  by 
Mr.  Robinson  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Mission,  and  Mrs. 
Fuller  who  had  come  on  from  Akola  for  one  more  season  of 
fellowship  and  conference  before  we  left  South  India. 

Mr.  Robinson  welcomed  us  most  kindly,  and  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  addressing  his  English  congregation  morning  and 
evening,  and  the  Native  Church  in  the  afternoon  through  an 
interpreter.  The  Native  Church  is  under  the  charge  of  Mr. 
Fox,  a  veteran  missionary,  and  the  Boys'  School  under  the 
charge  of  Rev.  Mr.  Brewer.  Mr.  Robinson  has  also  charge  of 
the  Wm.  Taylor  School  for  the  education  of  English  children, 
and  is,  besides,  Presiding  Elder  of  the  District.  He  has  a  fine 
English  congregation,  and  the  Native  Church  is  very  inter- 
esting. It  was  a  gi-eat  joy  to  preach  the  Gospel  to  these 
Hindus  and  to  see  some  souls  decide  for  Christ. 


1:1 


I9& 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


There  are  two  or  three  other  missiotiH  in  Poona,  th«f  Eng- 
lish Church,  the  Free  Church,  and  the  EtitahUshed  Church  of 
(Scotland  ;  hut  the  great  heatlien  city  w  still  but  lightly 
touched.  It  is  a  city  of  12<>,0()<'  people,  and  has  many  EnghMli 
residents,  besides  many  natives  who  understand  Englisii. 
Both  Mr.  Pentecost  and  Mr.  Varley  held  meetings  here  for 
Bome  time  which  were  well  attended  and  nmch  interest 
shown.  Our  time  did  not  permit  us  to  meet  the  native  jhjo- 
ple,  but  we  were  assured  that  it  would  not  be  difticidt  at  any 
time  to  obtain  a  good  audience,  willing  to  listen  to  an  earnest 
address  on  the  Gosi)el. 

Poona  was  the  home  of  one  of  our  former  missionaries. 
Miss  Helen  Dawlfy.  Many  of  our  friends  will  remember  that 
Miss  DawUy  came  out  to  India  in  connection  with  the 
Alliance  about  five  years  ago,  and  carried  on  for  some  time 
an  Orphanage  in  Akola.  She  was  a  woman  of  very  strong 
and  simple  faith.  When  she  left  Buffalo  for  India,  she  bad 
only  enough  money  to  take  her  to  Liverpool,  but  she  had  her 
trunk  labelled  "  Bombay,"  and  before  she  left  New  York  no 
less  than  two  people  were  competing  for  the  privilege  of  sus- 
taining her  in  India. 

About  t  wo  years  ago  she  removed  her  home  to  Poona 
and  resolved  to  carry  on  her  work  indei)endently  of  the 
AiJJANX'E  as  a  work  of  faith.  She  did  this  in  the  kindest 
spirit,  and  wa.s  always  on  the  most  friendly  terms  with  our 
missionaries.  But  she  felt  the  Lord  was  leading  her  to  tru'^l 
Him  directly  for  her  means  of  support  in  the  work.  During 
her  residence  in  Poona  she  endeared  herself  to  very  many, 


8l4iujU»M|iua,ltS;<liBiWfei-»g-^''^^HI 


BUi 


LANDS. 

)onsi,  tho  Eng- 
hotl  Church  of 
II  but  lightly 
many  Eiighvsh 
>tan<l  English, 
tings  here  for 
much  interest 
lie  native  peo- 
lifticult  at  any 
1  to  an  earnest 

'  missionaries, 
emember  that 
ion  with  the 
for  some  time 
3f  very  strong 
India,  she  had 
ut  she  had  her 
New  York  no 
•ivilege  of  sus- 

ome  to  Poona 
idently  of  the 
in  the  kindest 
erms  witli  our 
ig  her  to  tni^i 
vork.  D^  ring 
to  very  many, 


MADRAS   TO  /iOM/Liy. 


199 


and  exercised  a  most  blessed  Clifistian  influence.  Hut  alK)ut 
ten  days  before  we  reached  India  th«?  Mast(?r  called  her  to 
Himself.  Her  last  illness  was  very  painful  ;  but,  from  the 
first,  she  seems  to  have  rxpected  to  go  home,  and  so  ex- 
pressed herself  to  all  about  her.  Hhe  passed  away  in  faith 
and  victory. 


POONA. 


Thi  lady,  whom  she  sent  for  to  England  to  assist  her  in 
the  work,  arrived  just  three  days  after  her  death,  and  so  in 
God's  wise  Providence  the  work  was  able  to  go  on. 

Poona  is  one  of  the  favorite  residences  of  India.  It  is  on 
a  high  altitude  and  is  never  very  hot.  And  during  the  rainy 
season,  it  is  far  ■  iumgh  from  the  mountains  to  escape  a  heavy 


jiniikii,ij,iiiiiiiui,uaar»'^'»«p 


l» 


200        LARGER   OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

rainfall,  so  that  it  has  an  exceptionally  fine  dimate,  and,  like 
Bangalore,  it  is  the  chosen  residence  of  many  foreigners. 

The  Enghsh  (juarter  is  handsomely  built,  with  wide 
streets  and  spacious  grounds,  and  all  the  characteristic  fea- 
tures of  an  English  Canto-inient. 

We  could  not  help  saying  to  these  de^r  English-speaking 
people  that  it  was  a  very  awful  ]-esponsibility  to  know  the 
Gospel  and  the  Saviour,  alnd  be  so  near  to  these  multitudes 
who  know  him  not.  It  was  our  prayer,  as  we  spoke  to  these 
hundreds  of  young  ]>eople,  that  a  score  of  missionaries  might 
come  out  of  that  company,  and  that  all  the  rest  might  live 
such  lives  that  from  them  would  "  sound  out  "  the  Gospel 
to  all  the  heathen  multitudes  of  Poona. 

We  left  Poona  by  daylight  Monday  morning,  and  by 
eleven  o'clock  found  ourselves  once  more  in  Bombay.  The 
day  was  spent  very  busily  in  getting  through  a  two  weeks' 
mail,  and  preparing  for  another  journey  that  night  to  North 
India.  After  the  days'  work  was  over,  and  we  had  taken 
Mrs.  Fuller  to  the  train  for  Akola,  and  once  more  said 
"  Good-bye  "  to  our  Berar  work  through  her,  we  had  an  hour 
to  spare  before  sunset,  and  so  we  drove  along  the  shore  to  the 
famous  Malabar  Hill  where  the  wealthy  Bombay  merchants 
reside. 

This  is  the  most  magnificent  drive  in  the  world.  For  two 
or  three  miles  it  skirts  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  then  follows  the 
crest  of  the  hill  which  is  a  high  peninsula  between  two  arms 
of  the  sea,  so  that  it  is  constantly  exposed  to  the  breeze  and 
never  can  be  hot.     The  view  from  the  hill,  out  upon  the  sea, 


ssss 


LANDS. 

late,  and,  like 
oreigners. 
It,   with  wide 
act  eristic  fea- 

;lish-speaking 
'  to  know  the 
>se  multitudes 
spoke  to  these 
onaries  might 
st  might  live 
"  the  Gospel 

ling,  and  by 
ombay.  The 
a  two  weeks' 
ight  to  North 
i^e  had  taken 
36  more  said 
?  had  an  hour 
e  shore  to  the 
ay  merchants 

rid.  For  two 
3n  follows  the 
en  two  arms 
e  breeze  and 
upon  the  sea, 


"IT, 


*msME^^^ 


mmmm 


tummuM 


>!Hi«M«ll|llllM! 


>l<>i»WWWWB!BljHpw;j]t,,,.^...  -.-..4-^1 


j 


MADR.IS   TO  BOMBAY. 


201 


across  the  harbor  to  the  Colabba,  and  theli  across  tlie  plain 
over  the  great  city  with  its  superb  buildings  and  its  forests 
of  acacias,  palms,  banyans,  i)lantains,  and  a  wealth  of  lux- 
uriant vegetation,  crowded  with  picturesque  houses  and 
teeming  with  moving  human  beings  of  almost  every  nation, 
and  dressed  in  almost  every  hue  cannot  be  surpassed  by 
anything  which  we  have  ever  seen  or  expect  to  see. 

As  we  drove  dow  n  the  hill  on  oiu*  way  back  to  the  city, 
we  passed  the  "  Towers  of  Silence,*"  where  the  rich  Parsees 
expose  their  dead,  and  as  we  remembered  liow  much  of  the 
wealth  of  Bombay  is  in  their  hands,  and  then  realized  their 
end,  and  saw  the  very  vultures  sitting  on  the  trees  around 
ready  for  their  prey,  we  felt  how  little  all  the  pomp  and 
grandeur  of  the  world  was  worth  without  God,  and  the  pre- 
cious hopes  of  the  gracious  Gospel. 

We  found  the  missionary  circles  in  Bombay  deeply 
stirred  with  a  great  controversy. 

In  P*^  >  .  'ler  last  the  Decennial  Missionary  Conference  of 
India  was  ..leld  in  Bombay,  and  attended  by  several  hundred 
missionaries  from  various  parts  of  India. 

At  that  Conference  much  disappointment  was  felt  because 
the  leaders  of  the  meeting  managed  to  prevent  the  Confer- 
ence from  passing  any  bold  or  positive  resolutions  protesting 
against  the  three  most  crying  evils  of  the  land,  viz.,  the 
Liquor  Traffic,  the  Opium  Traffic,  and  the  Licensing  of  Social 

A'ice. 

Meetings  were  held  of  an  informal  character  to  show 
the  facts  respecting  these  glaiing  evils,  but  the  Convention 


■P"! 


nxmm 


202         LARGER   OUTLOOKS  ON  MfSS/CNARY  LANDS. 

was  not  allowed  to  record  any  definite  protest  under  the  pre- 
text that  these  subjects  were  not  included  in  the  programme 
laid  out  at  the  beginning,  and,  also,  because  it  was  under- 
stood that  no  subject  should  bo  presented  about  which  there 
was  not  perfect  unanimity  of  opinion.  By  some  skillful  par- 
liamentary management  the  Conference  was  led  to  decline, 


THE  SACREO  COW  OF  INDIA. 


by  a  vote  of  105  to  102,  to  pass  any  resolutions  or  express  any 
opinion  upon  these  questions. 

Their  action  has  awakened  a  storm  of  criticism  all  over 
the  Christian  world,  and  the  missionaries  of  India  are  feeling 
themselves  betrayed  into  a  false  position,  and  a  great  deal  of 
strong  feeling  is  being  expressed  on  every  side. 


*mmmm 


hVDS. 

der  the  pre- 
program me 
was  under- 
which  there 
skillful  par- 
te decline, 


express  any 

3ni  all  over 
I  are  feeling 
reat  deal  of 


GARDEN  OF  THE  TAJ. 
A  "Kodak"  photofrraph  taken  by  >lr.  Simpson. 


.yfAPR.lS  TO  liOMliAY. 


203 


Mr.  Dyer,  the  editor  and  proprietor  of  the  Bombay  (fuar- 
dian,  was  one  of  the  advocates  of  a  bold  and  uncompromising 
stand  at  the  Conference. 

Wo  beUeve  the  storm  will  clear  the  air,  and  compel  all 
true  men  to  speak  out  on  these  and  all  such  questions  with  a 
voice  which  will  be  felt  at  the  very  throne  of  India  and  Enj;- 
land,  and  in  the  heart  )f  every  missionary  that  is  afraid  of 
offending  man  more  than  God,  if  there  l)e  such  in  India, 
which  may  God  forbid  ! 

But  if  there  is  any  difference  of  opinion  among  the  mis- 
sionaries of  India  on  either  of  these  three  great  questions— 
the  Liquor  Traffic,  the  Opium  Traffic,  or  the  Licensing  of 
Social  Impurity  in  India,  the  sooner  it  is  known  by  the 
churches  at  home  the  better. 

We  need  not  say  there  is  no  doubt  about  tiie  attitude  of 
our  dear  missionaries  on  these  (piostions,  or  of  any  other  mis- 
sionaries we  have  met  in  India. 


XIII. 


BOMBAY  TO  BENARES. 


"^"^  jTK  were  able  to  spend  the  last  two  weeks  of  our  brief 
W  visit  to  India  in  the  Northwest  and  Northern  Prov- 
inces. One  object  was  to  see  a  fesv  of  the  ancient 
and  characteristic  cities,  such  as  Delhi,  Agra,  I^ucknow, 
Cawnpore  and  Benares,  and  another  was  to  see  something  of 
the  mission  work  in  which  God  has  been  so  marvelously 
pouring  out  His  Spirit  in  these  northern  fields. 

We  selected  the  western  route  through  the  independent 
states  of  Baroda,  Guzerat  and  Kajpootana,  passing  through 
the  famous  cities  of  Ahmedabad,  Baroda,  Ajmeer  and  Jey- 
pore.  As  we  got  farther  north  we  found  the  season  much 
later  than  in  Central  and  Southern  India.  The  fields  were 
green  with  waving  harvests  of  wheat,  and  other  grains,  and 
the  reapers  had  only  begun,  in  a  few  instances,  to  cut  down 
the  grain.  The  air  became  cooler  and  the  nights,  indeed, 
cold,  so  that  the  heaviest  covering  was  needed.  Tlie  fall  of 
snow  in  the  northern  mountains  has  been  unusually  heavy, 
and  in  the  whole  of  India  the  hot  season  is  a  month  later  than 
usual,  so  that  we  have  almost  entirely  escaped  the  oppressive 

weather  we  expected.     We  cannot  sufficiently  thank  God  for 

204 


of  our  brief 
•thern  Prov- 
the  ancient 
,  Lucknow, 
amething  of 
marvelously 

independent 
ing  through 
er  and  Jey- 
\'ison  much 

fields  were 
grains,  and 
o  cut  down 
lits,  indeed, 

The  fall  of 
ally  heavy, 
h  later  than 
9  oppressive 
ink  God  for 


w  ;''.P''-^^^ 


^m&g^.. 


■V 


SIDE  VIEW  OF  THE  TAJ. 
A  "  Kodak     photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 


-^■^m' 


His  extraordinary  goodness 
in  thus  answering  prayer, 

and  enabling  us  to  accomplish  so  much  work  without  hind- 
rance. 


^»';^,, 


MM(SiJ'.''!j«B'a'B''*'  "'^' '  '*»*! 


206         LARGER  Ol^ri.OOKS  OX  Mrss/ON.IRV  LANDS. 

Tho  Native  Princen  of  India  are  very  st lict  in  their  laws 
for  the  protection  of  animals,  in  some  cases  jirohihiting  the 
shooting  of  game  and  oven  the  slaughtering  of  animals  for 
food,  and  so,  throughout  the  great  State  of  Iiiij[)ootana,  ani- 
mal life  was  very  abundant  and  interesting.  Scores  of  mon- 
keys weie  hanging  from  the  trees  or  gamboling  over  the 
ground.     Many  beautiful  birds  were  constantly  appearing, 


"i'^x 


■  >ii^.. 


THE  FORT,  AGRA. 

wild  peacocks  with  magnificent  tails,  great  cranes  and  adju- 
tant birds  as  tall  as  a  man,  green  parrots,  pelicans,  jiigeons, 
beefsteak  birds,  immense  buzzards,  and  many  pretty  little 
birds  of  bright  plumage.  We  saw  many  herds  of  deer,  and, 
occasionally,  a  wolf  or  a  fox,  on  the  great  plains. 

Our  first  considerable  stop  was  at  the  old  city  of  Agra. 


mem-'-'^tm^: 


LANDS. 

in  their  laws 
roliihiting  tlio 
•f  Jiiiinials  for 
jpootana,  ani- 
cori'8  of  nion- 
ling  over  the 
ly  ni)pearing, 


les  and  adju- 

ans,  pigeons, 

pretty  little 

of  deer,  and, 

city  of  Agra. 


jioArniY  TO  lu-y.tK'Ks. 


207 


ThiH  wuH  one  ..f  the  <apitalH  of  tlm  great  Mogul  rulers  of  In- 
dia, and  is  tiie  seat  of  some  of  their  granch-st  mo.mniental 
huihliugs.  The  thre.*  most  famous  are  the  1<'  .:'t,  the  Palar.- 
and  the  Ta  j  Mahal.     The  Fort  is  an  immet.  se  enclosure  of  red 


MARBLE  SCREEN  IN  THE  TAJ,  AQRA. 

sandstone  of  the  most  beautiful  and  massive  proportions. 
The  Palace  of  the  Emperor,  Shah  Jehan,  is  within  the  Fort 
and  contains  the  apartments  of  his  harem,  and  also  the  Moti 
Musjud  or  White  Mos<iue,  of  pure  white  marble.     It  would 


,^^_:.^,,. 


2o8         LARGER  OnTLOOA'S  ON  MrSSWX.IRV  I..INDS. 

be  idle  to  attempt  to  give  an)-  descrijjtion  of  these  immense 
collections  of  stately  columns,  arches  and  carvings. 

The  gem  of  Agra  and  India,  however,  is  the  Taj  Mahal, 
which  stands  on  the  Jumna,  about  a  mile  above  Agra,  and 
was  built  by  Shah  Jehan,  as  a  monument  and  tomb  for  his 
favorite  wife.     It  is  of  pure  white  marble  elegantly  propor- 
tioned and  exquisitely  carved.     It  stands  in  the  midst  of  a 
magnificent  garden  filled  with  luxuriant  trees  and  flowers, 
and  adorned  with  artificial  tanks  and  ponds  filled  with  water. 
It  has  been  called  a  "  Dream  in  Marble,  "and  its  exquisite  and 
dazzhng  beauty  has  not  been  overstated.     It  took  seventeen 
years  to  build  it,  and  it  cost  §0,000,000.     All  it  contains  is 
two  beautiful  marble  toml)s,  those  of  Shah  Jehan  and  his  fa- 
vorite wife,  Arimand  Banu,  for  whom  it  was  reared.     There 
is  a  touch  of  romance  about  it  that  lights  up  a  little  the 
cruelty  and  selfishness  of  this  Mogul  tyrant.     He  must  have 
had  some  kind  of  a  heart  to  devote  so  many  years  of  his  life 
and  such  millions  of  treasure  to  one  he  loved.     And  yet,  it 
was  a  sensual  and  selfish  love,  for  you  can  see  the  gorgeous 
palace  he  also  built  for  his  Hindu  wives,  and  the  gorgeous 
apartments  in  another  part  of  the  Fort  for  his  Mohammedan 
queens,  with  all  their  separate  establishments  and  mosques 
for  worship. 

The  blot  on  all  this  grandeur  is  the  fact  that  scarcely  any 
of  this  costly  work  was  ever  paid  for,  the  poor  natives  never 
having  received  more  than  a  mere  pittance  of  their  promised 
wages.  It  was  surely  a  just  retribution  for  this  proud  and 
splendid  despot,  that  he  spent  the  last  seven  years  of  his  life 


\ 


mammmmam 


INDS. 

Bse  immense 

3  Taj  Mahal, 
e  Agra,  and 
tomb  for  his 
ntly  propor- 
le  midst  of  a 
and  flowers, 
with  water, 
xquisito  and 
k  seventeen 
.  contains  is 
1  and  his  fa- 
ired. There 
a  little  the 
3  must  have 
rs  of  his  life 
And  yet,  it 
le  gorgeous 
he  gorgeous 
)hammedan 
id  mosques 

icarcely  any 
itives  never 
sir  promised 
1  proud  and 
'8  of  his  life 


< 

a: 
a 

< 

< 
1- 

ul 

I 
I- 


iiwwiwwwiiftiMiiiitwiftWMijytw^  '• 


ntgg0^l^mit^^^fMllit^'s,tt/f,,l.. 


BOMBAY   TO  JIEX.IRF.S. 


209 


< 
cc 
o 

< 

< 
I- 

UJ 

X 

I- 


as  a  prisoner  in  his  own  palace,nnder  th(3  cruel  orders  of  liis  son . 
They  showed  us  the  marble  cage  where  he  used  to  sit  looking 
out  over  the  valley  at  the  beautiful  Taj,  where  the  only  thing, 
which,  perhaps,  he  had  ever  loved,  lay  buried,  and  where  he 
himself  ere  long  lay  down  by  her  side. 


DELHI. 


More  magnificent,  however,  even  than  Agra,  are  the 
ruins  and  monuments  of  Delhi,  which  we  were  permitted  to 
visit  two  days  later.  Delhi  was  the  real  capital  of  the  great 
Mogul  Empire,  and  when  the  Reformation  was  beginning  to 
dawn  in  Europe,  the  great  Mohammedan  conquerors  of  India 


2IO         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

were  building-  up  an  empire  here  as  splendid  as  Babylon  ever 
knew. 

The  fort  and  palace  of  Delhi  are  similar  to  those  of  Agra, 
but  much  more  magnificent.  The  Pearl  Mosque,  the  Hall  of 
Audience  in  the  Emperor's  Palace,  and  the  great  drawing- 


HUMAYAN'8  TOMB,  DELHI. 

room  in  the  Queen's  apartments  contain  a  wealth  of  marble, 
gold  and  precious  stones  perfe  Jy  bewildering.  The  decora- 
tions are  gorgeous  beyond  description,  but  the  design  is  so 
simple  and  beautiful  that  nothing  seems  overdone.  The  ceil- 
ings are  finished  in  marble  and  gold,  the  pillars  are  each  one 
piece  of  marble,  as  smooth  as  alabaster,  and  carved  in  the 


'  LANDS. 

IS  Babylon  ever 

those  of  Agra, 
jue,  the  Hall  of 
great  drawing- 


alth  of  marble, 
;,  The  decora- 
be  design  is  so 
lone.  The  ceil- 
rs  are  each  one 
.  carved  in  the 


BOMBAY   TO  BENARES. 


211 


finest  designs  The  marble  is  inlaid  with  rare  precious  stones 
representing  scroi:3,  flowers,  birds,  animals  and  Arabic  verses 
from  the  Koran.  Between  the  apartments  are  screens  repre- 
senting  the  finest  lace,  all  cut  in  marble,  each  stitch  of  the 
lace  work  costing  one  doUar  to  carve.    It  was  of  this  exqui- 


ENTRANCE  TO  THE  GRAND  MOSQUE,  DELHI. 

site  chamber  that  the  Persian  poem  was  composed,  the  refrain 

in  English  being  : 

"And  oh,  ir  mere  db  au  jai^siu^*  ^a  v^.».., 
It  is  this,  It  is  this." 

And  yet  as  we  turned  away,  and  thought  of  the  wretched 
builder  now,  and  all  the  deceived  companions  of  his  luxurious 
pleasures,  we  could  honestly  say  that  we  have  seen  some 
Hindu  huts    of  clay  which  we  would  not   exchange-with 


.«^8!SW*»»W  '" 


312  LARGER   OUTLOOA'S  OX  .V/SSro.W  I  AT  /..LY/lS. 

their  humble,  happy  ( Jhristiau  liearts-  for  all  his  splendor, 
even  for  a  hundred  Ijfetivaes, 

But  the  most  in ferttvlinp  part  of  Delhi  is  its  ancient 
ruins.     South  of.  the  irsodern  city  tiu  tlu^  ruins  of  no  less  than 

se-ven    ancient  cities, 


extending  twelve 
miles  south  along  the 
Jumna,  and  covering 
an  area  of  nearly  fifty 
square  miles.  We 
drove  out  eleven  miles 
to  the  famous  Kutub 
Minar,  and  all  along 
the  way  there  was 
nothing  to  be  seen  but 
the  ruins  of  temples, 
tombs,  and  ancient 
fortifications  ;  some 
of  them — for  example, 
Asoka's  column  and 
the  famous  Wrought 
Iron  Pillar — g  o  i  n  g 
back  to  a  period  even  before  the  time  of  Christ.  Delhi  has 
been  well  called  the  Rome  of  Asia,  and  it  also  reminded  us, 
not  a  little,  of  ancient  Memphis  with  its  tombs  and  monu- 
ments of  ancient  kings  and  departed  grandeur. 

The  most  remarkable  of  all  these  ancient  monuments  is 
the  famous  Kutub  Minar,  or  Tower  of  Victoiy.     It  stands 


KUTUB  MINAR,  NEAR  DELHI. 


'^^'^'^'iM^.MaifeakHafiBMBa^JaasB^^ 


.■L\7)S. 

his  splendor, 

3  its  ancient 
'  no  U'ss  than 
iciont  cities, 

i  n  g  twelve 
ith  along  the 
md  covering 
f  nearly  fifty 

miles.     We 

eleven  miles 

mens  Kutub 

id  all  along 

there  was 
0  be  seen  but 

of  temples, 
nd  ancient 
ons  ;  8  o  m  e 
for  example, 
column  and 
us  Wrought 
lar — g  o  i  n  g 
.  Delhi  has 
eminded  us, 

and  monu- 

lonuments  is 
f.    It  stands 


FRONT  VIEW  OF  THE  TAJ  AQRA, 
A  "  Kodak"  photograph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 


' 


iiiiiniiJiuiii.ii'i»i*Mi'iULMaiuni 


liOMIiAY   TO   KENAKr.S. 


213 


elm-pii  milos  Houth  of  inodcru  Delhi,  at  the  southoni  end  of 

this  great  plain  of  ruins.     It  was  the  first  great  niouunieut 

built  by  the  Mogul  con(iuerors  of  India,  and  goes  back  to  the 

sixteenth  century.     It  is  in  almost  perfect  preservation.     It  is 

an  inunense  tower  of  several  stories,  47  feet  in  diameter  at 

the  base,  and  rising  24(>  feet  high.    To  our  eye  it  is  more  im- 

l)ressive  than  the  Pyramids,  and  very  beautiful  in  its  design 

and  execution. 

There  is  a  stair-  _  >  -      -- 

way  leading  to 

the  top  and  the 

view    is    very 

fine. 

In  the  even- 
ing we  drove 
0  ve  r  all  the 
scenes  of  the 
Indian  Mu- 
tiny. Wo  stood 
on  tlie  famous 
ridge    where 

the  British  siege  lines  were  posted.  We  entered  the  Cashmere 
Gate,  where  the  storming  party  of  English  soldiers  broke 
through  the  walls  and  planted  the  flag  of  victory,  where 
fifty  out  of  every  seventy-five  fell  bleeding  and  dying  under 
the  murderous  fire  of  the  foe,  and  the  noble  leader,  Gen. 
Nicholson,  was  carried  back  to  die  just  as  he  had  won  the 
costly  victory  which  saved  India.     We  gazed  on  the  splendid 


CHANONI  CHANK,  MAIN  STREET,  DELHI. 


•I 


314 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


monument  coinmemomting  these  lieroic  achievements,  and 
tolling  how  nion  th.m  :],0o(>  brave  men  fell  m  this  desperate 
struggle.  And  we  thought  how  much  it  Juid  (;o9t  England 
to  gain  India,  and  how  greatly  the  obligation  wart  enhanced 

to  make  the  mont 
of  this  great  trust 
for  God. 

In  the  same  circle 
of  ( ities  we  also  in- 
(  1  u  d  e  d  Cawnpore 
and  Lucknow.  Both 
the^  cities  have  a 
pathetic  interest  in 
connection  with  the 
Mutiny.  Cawnpore 
was  the  scene  of 
the  most  awful 
tr.igedy  of  modern 
war.  viz.,  "  "  las- 
sacre  of  th<  I'liish 
garri  '  by  the  in 
earn    ohend    Nann 

MEMORIAL  AT  CAWNPO;  SahlU,        aft  ^i" 

had  surreudereU  « 
hi.'     issuranr    of  protection.     After  he  had  mi dered  all  the 
men,  he  took  the  women  and  chil     en  capti  i'  f '  ir  a  fate  more 
cruel  than  death,  and  when  he  found  that  tli'    city  was  about 
to  Ic  recaptured,  he  murdered  them  also,  and  cast  the  bodies 


ANDS. 

vements,  aud 
this  desperate 
(^ost  England 
^•art  enhanced 
ike  the  mont 
8  great  trust 
id. 

le  same  circle 
38  we  also  in- 
e  d  Cawnpore 
icknow.  Both 
cities  have  a 
jic  interest  in 
ition  with  the 
y.  Oawnpore 
the  scene  of 
most  awful 
[y  of  modern 
n-i..,  ''^"  las- 
>f  tht  i'iiish 
by  the  in 
e  hend  Nana 
afl  'i8y 

irrendercu 

dered  all  the 
>r  a  fate  more 
ity  was  aboiit 
ast  the  bodies 


liOMIiAY    TO  lit: S ARKS. 


2^5 


of  the  dead  and  the  living  together  into  a  great  well,  where 
a  Memorial  now  stands  with  this  inscription  :  "Sacred  to 
the  perpetual  niemory  of  a  great  conjpany  of  Christian  peo- 
pie,  chiefly  women 
and  children,  who 
near  this  spot  were 
cruelly  massacred 
by  the  followers  of 
the  rebel,  Nana  Sa- 
hib, and  cast,  the 
dying  with  the 
dead,  into  the  well 
below,  July  15, 
1857." 

Lucknow  stands 
about  seventy  miles 
north  of  Cawnpore. 
It  is  the  largest  city 
of  Northern  India, 
except  Calcutta,  and 
well  called —"Beau- 
tiful Lucknow."  It 
is,  indeed,  a  most 
charming  city.  The 
English        section, 

known  as  the  "Residency  Hill,"  is  very  handsome,  and  even 
the  native  city  is  pretty  and  picturesque.  Seen  from  the  old 
Residency  Tower,  it  is  a  great  sea  of  green  trees  and  fields  set 


NANA  SAHIB. 


2i6     i.ARai.R  orri.oois  ox  ynssioxARv  lands. 

with  white  «lome8,  roofs,  and  iiiinaiots,  fur  miltvs  and  niiloB. 
U  is  full  of  niosqiu.'H  and  tempi. h.  But  -aftor  its  MisHionH— 
its  most  interesting  s,ene8  are  those  connected  with  the  Mu- 
tiny. 

( )ur  kiii.l  friends  took  us  over  all  th.  ground,  so  familiar 
to  us  in  our  boyhood,  thirty  six  years  aj^o,  when  these  events 


PALACE  ON  THE  QUMTI,  LUCKNOW. 

were  thrilling  our  hearts,  where  Lawrence,  Havelock  and  Sir 
Colin  Cam pl)ell  so  nobly  fought  for  the  "K.<lief  of  Lucknow," 
where  the  brave  defenders-a  few  hundivd  m.n-so  grandly 
held  their  ground  against  an  aimy  of  tens  of  thousands  of 
Sepoys  with  batteries  of  artillery,  whom  they  themselves  had 
drilled  and  taught. 


KBi 


ile«  and  miloB. 
ita  Mi.sHions — . 
with  tho  Mu- 

id,  HO  familiar 
n  these  events 


^elock  and  Sir 
3f  Luck  now," 
II— so  grandly 
thousands  of 
leniselves  had 


.nayfe^ji'. 


/t0.t//l.n-  TO  HEN.IRF.S. 


217 


The  old  Hi'sideney,  which  wuh  their  fortific.t'i;  n  and  de- 
fence, 18  now  a  Park,  and  the  old  ImildingH  stand  an  they 
■were,  at  the  dose  of  the  Mutiny,  a  mass  of  battered  ruins. 
It  was  simply  awful  co  look  at  those  great  towers  and  walls, 
literally  torn  to  pieces  hy  shot  and  shell,  and  realize  that  two 
or  three  regiments  of  soldiers,  with  a  lot  of  women  and  chil- 


THE  BRITISH  RESIDENCY  BEFORE  THE  MUTINY. 

dren,  had  lived  behind  those  walls  for  months  during  the  fiery 
heat  of  an  India  Sumrnei-,  and  under  a  ceaseless  rain  of  fire 
from  hundreds  of  guns. 

We  saw  the  cellar  where  General  Lawrence  was  mor- 
tally wounded  by  a  shell.  We  saw  the  other  cellar  where  all 
the  children  and  women  huddled  together  foi-  months.  They 
nhowed  us  the  hole  by  which  their  meals  were  handed  down, 


21 


8 


LARGE  A'   OrriAlOKS  ON  iVISSIONAKY  LANDS. 


and  another  hole  a  foot  in  diameter  where  a  cannon  ball  had 
entered  even  that  cellar  and  sunk  itself  in  a  brick  pillar  out 
of  sight,  and  a  poor  woman  sitting  near  had  died  of  fright. 
The  tower  above  was  literally  perforated  with  balls. 

Most  touching  of  all  were  the  figures  telling  how  out  of 
:^,000  men  that  begun  that  awful  summer  only  830  survived 
when  the  victory  was  won.  These,  indeed,  were  heroes. 
Why  may  not  the  missionary,  annals  have  greater  heroes  ?  If 
brave  men  suffered  so  to  win  India  for  England,  let  us  not  be 
afraid  to  suffer  in  order  to  win  India  for  Christ. 

Well,  we  are  glad  to  say  that  Lucknow  has  something 
better  than  the  old  Residency  and  the  memorials  of  1857.  It 
has  a  glorious  missionary  work,  and  is  the  headquarters  of 
that  Mission  of  our  own  laud  on  which  God  has  so  won- 
drously  be  on  pouring  out  His  Spirit  during  the  past  four 
years. 

We  were  very  cordially  received  by  Rev.  Dr.  Parker  and 
the  members  of  the  Mission,  and  afforded  every  opportunity 
to  see  the  work  and  learn  the  methods  which  God  has  so 
richly  blessed  among  them,  during  recent  years.  We  have 
not  yet  found  a  more  thoroughly  organized  missionary  sys- 
tem, or  one  more  vigorously  and  efficiently  worked.  The  sys- 
tem is  true  to  the  genius  of  Methodism,  and  yet  it  has  a  cer- 
tain apostolic  simplicity  and  catholicity  of  spirit  which  may 
well  commend  it  to  the  study  of  every  missionary  who  is  in- 
telligently seeking  for  the  best  methods,  and  willing  to  learn 
from  every  wise  and  true  pattern. 

At  the  head  of  the  whole  work  is  the  Bishop,  or  general 


OS. 


I  ball  had 
sillar  out 
3f  fright. 


>w  out  of 
survived 
e  heroes, 
eroes  ?  If 
us  not  be 

Dmething 
1857.  It 
larters  of 
;  so  won- 
past  four 

,rker  and 
[.)ortunity 
)d  has  so 
We  have 
nary  sys- 
The  sys- 
as  a  cer- 
lich  may 
'ho  is  in- 
to learn 

r  general 


BOMBAY   TO  BEXARES. 


219 


^^^^^^ilA'fM^^^^ 


RUINS  OF  THE  SIEGE  OF  LUCKNOW. 

overseer  of  the  whole  field.  Then  over  each  District  is  a  Pre- 
siding Elder,  who  exercises  a  more  special  superintendence 
over  all  the  workers  in  that  field.  Under  him,  the  various 
American  or  English  workers  have  their  respective  depart- 
ments.    Some  are  Pastors  of  the  P^nglish  Church  in  the  Dis- 


2  20        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


trict.  Some  are  Superintendents  or  Professors  in  the  Train- 
ing College  or  Seminar3^  Some  are  teachers  in  the  High 
School  for  boys  or  girls.  Some  have  charge  of  an  Orphanage 
or  a  Home.  And  some  are  evangelists,  at  large,  to  preach 
the  gos])el  in  ^'arious  places.  But  each  has  a  special  depart- 
ment. And  .vhen  they  are  scattered  about  in  various  cen- 
tres, one  of  them  is  usually  local  Superintendent  of  all  the 
work  in  that  city  and  section. 

Then  come  the  native  workers.  And  this  is  the  right 
arm  of  the  Methodist  Mission.  There  are,  comparatively, 
few  American  workers  even  in  the  great  Provinces  of  Oude 
and  Rohilcund  and  amongst  a  church  of  more  than  fifty 
thousand  native  Christians.  Most  of  the  work  is  done  by 
hundreds  of  native  brethren,  and  the  American  worker  is 
chiefly  a  superintendent.  There  are  several  classes  of  these 
native  workers.  One  or  two  have  been  found  worthy  to  be 
made  Presiding  Elders.  Many  of  them  are  Native  Pastors, 
having  charge,  in  almost  all  cases,  of  the  native  churches. 
Some  of  them  are  Evangelists,  preaching  the  gospel  in  the 
villages.  The  Native  Pastors  receive  a  moderate  salary  of 
about  |r)0  to  ^75  per  year 

But  there  is  another  class  of  native  workers  which  more 
than  any  other  seems  to  us  to  be  a  recovered  link  in  the  great 
chain  of  personal  work,  and  this  is  the  agency  to  which  more 
than  any  other,  it  seems  to  us,  that,  under  God,  the  extra- 
ordinary success  of  this  Mission  is  due.  They  are  what  they 
call  "  Pastor  teachers,"  a  sort  of  intei'mediate  link  between 
the  Native  Pastor  and  the  heathen  people.     They  are  hum- 


STTSS? 


NDS. 

I  the  Train- 
n  the  High 
Orphanage 
!,  to  preach 
cial  depart- 
.^arious  cen- 
t  of  all  the 

s  the  right 
iparatively, 
es  of  Oude 

than  fifty 
is  done  by 

worker  is 
es  of  these 
jrthy  to  be 
i^e  Pastoi's, 
!  churches, 
spel  in  the 
e  salary  of 

i^hich  more 
n  the  great 
v'hich  more 
the  extra- 
vvhat  they 
k  between 
T  are  hum- 


BOMRAV  TO  IiEXAR/':S. 


221 


ble  men,  of  limited  abiUty  and  experience,  but  sincere  Chris- 
tians full  of  zeal  and  new-born  love.  And  they  are  set  to 
work  in  hundreds  of  places,  with  a  very  small  allowance  of 
115  to  -«^20  a  year,  as  teachers  in  hundreds  of  little  country 
villages. 

The  place  they 
hold  their  school  in 
is  a  little  hut  (and 
we  saw  some  of 
them),  that  can  be 
rented  for  a  mere 
trifle.  It  has,  per- 
haps, no  windows 
and  only  a  clay 
floor  and  mud  walls. 
But  in  this  place  the 
teacher  opens  a  lit- 
tle school  for  the 
boys  and  girls,  and 
begins  to  teach 
them  all  he  knows 
He       is    not    very 

far  on,  but  he  is  a  good  way  beyond  them.  And  his 
principal  class  is  the  Bible,  and  the  Gospels.  And  so  he 
teaches,  and  when  he  can  get  some  of  the  parents  to  come 
in,  he  preaches  to  them,  and  his  simple  kindness  wins  the 
confidence  of  old  and  young,  and  before  long  there  are  in- 
quirers, and  conversions,  and  baptisms. 


GATEWAY,  LUCKNOW. 


222 


I./IJ^aER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


This  simple  network  of  schools  and  native  evangelists 
has  gradually  spread  over  all  the  Northwest  Provinc!    o^ 

the  LTof  :f  "'  'l""  """  """^  •"*"  ^^^»-  «Pi-"«aliCo 
«.e  part  of  the  workers,  and  a  very  real  outpouring  of  the 

Holy  Ghost  on  many  hearts.     The  result  is  that  during  the 

pas  two  or  three  years  there  has  been  a  great  ingatheringo 

uls  and  more  than  fifty  thousand  have  been  added  to  the 

church  by  baptism.    The  additions  have  not  been  so  sudden 

Zlu\       ""t  ™"«"  '^^•'^'  ""'  t""  -™^-  ha" 

fs  like^t!'™  '"  "  T  ^""''  '™  *"  '"'^''^^"-^  --  that  it 
s  hkely   0  prove,  not  a  special  and  sporadic  movement,  but 

IZ    :         r'^f"""""""'^''  "'^'^  ™^  agencies 'th^ 
are  hkely  to  contnme  bnnging  forth  sue,,  fruit  without  in- 
rrupfon.    We  were  glad  to  find  that  similar  revivals  IZ 
still  gomg  on  m  many  of  the  churches 

Another  interesting  feature  of  this  Mission  is  the  impor. 
t^t,on  of  the  Camp  Meeting  into  the  heathen  field.    ZZ 
.t  was  here  before,  but  they  have  consecrated  it  to  a  higte 
and  hoher  use.    The  heathen  a..  ve,y  fond  of  holding  whl 
they  cab  Malas  or  rehgious  festivals,  and  gathering  iL.'a 
crowds  ma  g™ve  to  celebrate  the  p^ses  of  some  god     The 
m,ss>ona„.s  have  be.n  holding  their  ^a^o.,  too,  and  as  many 
as  two  thousand  people  have  sometimes  attended  them  t 
cudmg  many  heathen,  and  there  have  been  great  numC 
of  conve:.,o„s,  just  as  in  our  g..at  meetings  ft  home     Wl 
were  very  much  pleased  to  find  these  simple,  troe  and  agJL 
B.ve  methods  in  this  good  work,  and  we  ax^e  sure  thaTfTb 
work  must  be  blessed  and  can  only  pray  that  God  m2y  ^^ 
tiply  it  more  and  more.  ^ 


^•5K»aflK||m^iiaM^""*'' 


-~WP: 


ANDS. 

^Q  evangelists 
Provinces  of 
spirituality  on 
During  of  the 
it  during  the 
igathering  of 
added  to  the 
3n  so  sudden 
imbers  have 
8  are  that  it 
)vement,  but 
tgencies  that 
'>  without  in- 
evivals  were 

s  the  impor- 
Id.    Indeed, 
i  to  a  higher 
olding  w^hat 
ing  in  great 
e  god.     The 
nd  as  many 
'd  them,  in- 
at  numbers 
lome.     We 
ind  aggres- 
3  that  such 
1  may  mul- 


BOMBAY   TO  BENARES. 


223 


Of  course,  these  friends  have  the  advantage,  that  we  do 
not  yet  possess,  of  a  strong  force  of  native  converts  to  draw 
their  workers  from.  This  is  the  result  of  an  experience  of 
more  than  forty  years.  Until  we  can  raise  up  this  force  from 
among  our  own  converts,  we  must  depend  chiefly  upon  our 
American  missionaries  as  pioneers  ;  but,  as  their  work  is 
blessed,  we  are  sure  that  they  will  not  be  ashamed  to  copy 
the  example  of  our  friends  in  their  grand  use  of  every  kind 
A  native  material,  even  the  very  humblest.  While  we  hope 
to  see  the  churches  of  America  still  pour  thousands  of  vi'orkers 
into  this  land,  yet  the  real  work  of  v^inning  and  holding 
India  for  Jesus  must  ultimately  be  done  by  the  people  of 
India  themselves. 

We  spent  a  deligatful  day  with  Dr.  Parker  and  the  mis- 
sionaries at  Lucknow.  We  learned  much  of  the  history  and 
geography  of  the  field,  and  the  methods  of  the  work.  We 
saw  most  of  the  leading  workers  at  Lucknow,  and  more  de- 
voted and  large-hearted  men  and  women  we  do  not  know. 
We  visited  the  excellent  High  School  and  College.  We  had 
the  pleasure  of  addressing  the  English  Church  in  their  com- 
modious building,  and  meeting  Rev.  Mr.  Osborne,  who  was 
holding  revival  services  there.  Mr.  Osborne  is  a  native  of 
India  and  a  man  of  much  spiritual  power. 

On  the  following  Saturday  and  Sabbath  at  Bareilly,  we 
saw  still  more  of  the  work.  At  the  hospitable  home  of  Dr. 
Scott,  we  learned  much  from  his  experience  as  an  old  pioneer 
on  the  frontiers  of  the  field.  We  met  the  students  of  the 
Theological  Seminary  of  vrhich  he  has  charge,  and  were  de- 


224  I-ARCER   OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


lighted  with  these  sixty-five  native  young  men  who  reminded 
us  so  much  of  our  own  work  at  home.  We  visitt-i  tlie  girls' 
Ori)hanage  and  Schools,  and  hrighter,  sweeter  faces  we  never 
saw  than  these  two  Imndred  dear  Rohilcund  girls. 

We  had  the  joy  of  preaching  the  gospel  through  an  in- 


HOU8E8   IN  RAJPOOTANA. 
A  ' '  Kodak  "  photogrraph  taken  by  Mr.  Simpson. 

terpreter,  and  of  seeing  two  souls  come  out  and  receive  bap- 
tism. And  on  Sabbath  evening,  our  last  Sabbath  in  India, 
we  spoke  once  more  for  the  Master  to  the  English  congrega- 
tion in  Bareilly,  and  although  the  company  was  not  a  great 
one,  the  Lord  was  present,  and  souls  were,  we  beUeve,  blessed 
and  brought  very  near  to  Him.     It  was  a  blessed  day,  indeed 


\ 


IJVDS. 

lo  I'eininded 
f '1  the  girls' 
es  we  never 


ceive  bap- 
i  in  India, 
congrega- 
ot  a  great 
re,  blessed 
ly,  indeed 


BOMBAY  TO  BExWAfiliS. 


225 


a  blessed  series  of  days— our  visit  to  the  M.  E.  Mission  of 
Lucknow  and  Bareilly. 

Nor  must  we  forget  Delhi,  or  the  dear  missionary  that 
came  to  see  us  and  spent  an  hour  wuth  us  before  wo  left,  and 
told  us  with  mutual  joy  of  the  five  hundred  souls  that  he  had 
been  permitted  to  gather  from  among  the  heathen  during  the 

past  year. 

We  were  so  glad  to  leave  our  India  work  and  our  brother, 
Mr.  Fuller,  in  touch  with  this  blessed  Mission,  and  we  were 
also  much  gratified  to  be  able  to  gain  much  valuable  informa- 
tion respecting  openings  on  the  frontier  of  Nepaul  and  Thibet 
—one  of  the  chief  objects  for  which  we  had  come  to  North 
India.     But  we  shall  speak  more  fully  of  this  again. 

It  was  a  disappointment  not  to  meet  our  dear  friend  and 
former  guest,  Miss  Anna  Buddin,  but  her  field  is  so  remote,  on 
the  frontier  of  Nepaul  and  Thibet  and  six  days'  journey  from 
Bareilly.  that  there  was  not  time  for  her  to  get  down  ;  but 
we  heatd  many  cheering  things  of  her  brave  and  blessed  work, 
and  had  a  very  kind  telegram  from  her.  We  were  glad  to  be 
assured  that  should  we  be  led  to  send  our  workers  to  these 
frontier  fields,  the  old  standard  bearers  at  <^he  front  woukl  be 
gli>,a  Ic  greet  them  and  cheer  them  on  their  way. 

There  are  other  excellent  Missions  in  Northern  India. 
Tht  Presoyi;iiiians  are  in  the  Punjaub  and  Rajpootana.  But 
i;  -u  as  impossible  for  us,  in  the  short  time  at  our  disposal,  to 

go  there  also. 

We  left  Bareilly  for  Benares  early  Monday  morning,  and 
spent  most  of  the  day  in  the  old  capital  of  Hinduism.     Be- 


\ 


■ 

I,  ' 

h^i 

■  4 

Ir- --         -- 

nOMBAY   TO  BENARES. 


227 


:>m^^:.- 


v-C 


< 

z 

UJ 
(0 


nares  is  the  ancient  home  of  the  founder  of  Buddhism,  and 
the  Sacred  City  of  the  Hindus.  We  had  read  niuch  of  the 
Gauges  and  its  temples,  and  we  expected  nmch  that  would,  at 
least,  interest  us.  But  never  did  we  meet  with  a  more  heart- 
sickening  disa])pointment.  Some  one  has  said  tlie  place  to 
read  "The  Light  of  Asia"  is  Benares.    We  should  think  it  is. 

If  any  one 
v/ishes  to  see  the 
hoUowness,  fool- 
ishness and  filthi 
ness  of  Hinduism 
and  heathenism, 
let  him  look 
through  the  Ben- 
ares temples  on 
the  Ganges. 
There  are  hun- 
dreds of  them, 
and  we  saw  the 
most  of  them  and 
the  hest  of  them 
but  they  were  all 
disappointingand 
disgusting.  The 
first  was  their 
famous  "  Golden 
Temple,"  but  it 
was  full  of  filthy  mosque  of  aurunqzub,  benares. 


328      LAfiGiiR  orn.ooKs  o,y  uissioiv.i/^y  lands. 

cows,  and  naked  prio^ts,  and  obscene  images  and  foi  !  Brnell*?, 
and  the  wtr.Hjts  arouj  I  i(  were  crowded  with  bazaars  BolUnJ 
thousands  of  objects  of  re  ious  worship,  that  n<  lecent  man 
or  woman  could  touch  or  1<  )k  at. 

The  next  was  th.    famous  ^^    ikey  Temple,  ai  1  it  was 

Httle    bntter.      The 
god  and  i^fviipss  at 
the     ontrui.    ;     are 
obj(cifc,    of    terror, 
and    the    monkeys 
that     (tirouged     it 
and     fed      on    the 
weetmeats  (  iTered 
the  worslsippers 
were    by    far 
best     looking 
best  dressed  people 
around. 

The    next  was 
the  Nepaulese  Tem- 
ple, the   gift    of   a 
Prince    of  Nepaul, 
and    the    carvings 
were    too  vile  and 
obscene  to  look  at, 
far    less     describe. 
The  cattle  were  al- 
lowed to    frequent 


THE  MONKKY  TEMPLE. 


'..INDS. 

<1  foil  fimells, 
azaars  selling 
o  decent  man 

0,  ail  it  was 
better.      The 
id  gf)  ""'less  at 
ntran*  (3    are 
>    of    torror, 
le    monkeys 
thronged     it 
ed      »n    the 
leats  oifered 
worsliippors 
:)y    far 
ooking 
essed  people 

3   next  was 

)aule8e  Tem- 

gift    of   a 

of  Nepaul, 
le  carvings 
oo  vile  and 

to  look  at, 
3  describe, 
le  were  al- 
io  frequent 


noMn.iY  TO  iU':N.iA'f-:s. 


229 


the  temples  a  i  objects  of  worship,  and  even  the  manure 

that  pollutrd  1 1  -loor  was  treasured  as  a  satred  thing.  The 
l^eople  were  bathing  in  the  Ganges,  but,  side  by  side,  others 
were  wasliing  their  dirty  clothes  in  the  same  stream  they 
worshipped.  The  river  front  did  not  even  have  the  merit  of 
architectural  beauty.  It  is  an  old  tnmble-down  atlnir.  with 
a  f'"^'  striking  old  towers  and  spires. 


i  t  this     - 
duistn. 
whole 
down 

was  vi- 

this  VI.  vvor- 
ing  down. 
Pilgrims  are 
tinually  t  o 
nable  shrines, 
men,  women 
are  worship- 
themostinde 


ON  THE  GANGES. 


a  tyi)eof  Hin- 
g  1  a  d       the 
is      breaking 
alas  !      there 
deuce    that 
ship  is  break - 
Thousands  of 
coming    con- 
these  abomi- 
Millions      o  f 
and    children 
ping  as  divine 
cent   and   ob- 


scen(>  things.  The  very  instincts  uf  nature  seem  to  have  been 
perverted  and  destroyed,  and  they  take  pleasure  in  things 
that  seem  to  us  to  have  no  interest  or  charm,  but  are  utterly 
depressing,  revolting  and  hideous.  This  is  the  saddest  thiu^ 
about  heathenism.  It  is  so  lost  that  it  does  not  even  know 
how  lost  it  is.  Well,  we  are  glad  we  saw  Benares  and  Bareilly. 
One  is  the  heaven  side  of  India,  the  other  the  side  that  takes 
hold  on  hell.  God  help  us  speedily  to  lift  this  sunken  laud 
from  liell  to  heaven  1 


XIV. 

PROM  THE  HIMALAYAS  TO  THE  HOOQHLY. 

LKAVINO  Bonares  at  sunset,  a  n,l„  „f  WKhteen  hours 
took  „„  „„w„  the  valley  of  the  (iangex  to  Sahehgange 

fl„„f  ?'  "  ™''^  *""""''"'  "*■•  ""''  '«•  «»  through  th„ 
finest  cou„t,.y  «■„  have  yet  see,,  i„  l,„„a.  The  whole  fandl 
irr.^te,l,  and  it  looks  like  a  tropical  gai-den. 

The  fields  a,e  cut  up  into  little  sections  about  flftv  feet 
square  ,epa,-ated  by  a  little  ridge  of  sand  to  hold  th,  wate^ 

btr^il'TV''™^' '■''''"• ''*™'"*'"''-«-'^"'- 
gold  Some  of  the  harvests  were  while  and  wavinst  like 
great  baune,,ot  gold.  Many  were  green  and  of  ever;  sha 
Th,ckly  dotted  .n  every  di,-ection,  and  often  clustered  in  pi 
u,esque  groups,  we.«  myriads  of  ,„ango  fee.,,  their  foliage 
so  nch  and  dense  that  no  sunbea,n  can  .strike  through,  i^! 
ests  of  the  hnest  palms  waved  on  every  side 

U.  H*^"*r  '"'  ™""  "^  *  -nagniflcent  banyan  .spreading  wide 

ft^t ,«         • "  ""T'^  ""■"'«'>'  "P '"'» "•« "«» Bky  with 

Its  tuft  of  wav,ug  b,anches  gathered  at  the  ton.    It  is  1 

St  th  '!  °'  "'  '"'°^™-  '"  «"-  "o""-  with  the  ^nt 
nght^u,  the  boson,  of  its  vast  t,.nnk,  the  banyan  liteLly 


tL: 


30GHLY. 


igliteen  hours 
)  Haht'hgange. 
H  through  th.- 
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d  t  ho  waters  ; 
;reat  chocker- 
>f  greon  and 
waving  Hke 
every  shade, 
tered  in  pic- 
their  fohage 
"ough.     For- 


reading  wide 
nk  a  stately 
lue  sky  with 
op.  It  is  a 
th  the  pahn 
'an  literally 


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HiotDgrapJiic 

Sciences 

Coiporation 


%^"^  '^%^' 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


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Jh'OM  l  III:  HI.  U.  ILA)  AS  TO  THE  IIOOCIIL  Y.  2  3 1 

throwing  its  arris  around  it  and  embracing  it  in  its  bosom— 
a  sublime  tigure  of  loveliness  in  the  arms  of  strength,  or  gen- 
tleness combined  witli  power. 

The  shade  trees  of  India  are  made  for  the  climate.  Then- 
foliage  is  impenetrable  by  the  fiery  sun,  and  every  field  has 
its  natural  protection  from  the  deadly  stroke  of  that  heat 
which  no  one  can  understand  who  has  not  felt  it.  The  ban- 
yan is  one  of  the  finest,  and  often  sends  down  its  branches 
to  form  dozens  of  new  trunks  and  take  fresh  root  in  the  soil. 

The 
mango  is 
not    only 

a    tree  of 

sur  p  a  s  s- 

ing  beau 

t  y    and 

g  r  a  c  e  , 

very 

much  like 

our    rock 


A  LANDING  PLACE  ON  THE  GANGES. 


maple,  but  much  finer  ;  it  also  bears  a  splendid  fruit— 
the  typical  fruit  of  India,  and  one  unsurpassed  by  any  in 
the  world,  combining,  perhaps,  the  best  qualities  of  the 
psi^ch  and  the  pear,  but  much  richer  than  either.  The  fig 
tree  grows  everywhere,  especially  on  the  hills,  and  the  fruit 
is  now  in  its  perfection.  One  variety  of  it  is  "  The  People 
Tree,"  which  is  worshipped  everywhere.  Then  there  are 
plantains,  guavas  and  scores  besides,  bearing  excellent  fruit. 


232 


j.ARaF.n  orri.ook's  ox  j\/rsswxAF?y  lands. 


The  bananas  of  India  are  much  superior  to  ours.  The  small 
ones  have  a  i)fculiar  flavor  as  if  tliey  had  been  cooked  and 
sweetened,  and  liave  none  of  tlie  dryness  and  harshness  of 
the  American  fruit. 

But  the  queen  of 
India's  trees  is  the 
palm,  Tln-ee  varieties 
grow  heie.  The  date 
palm  is  quite  common. 
The  cocoanut  palm  is 
seen  in  considerable 
quantities  in  Bombay, 
Madras  and  elsewhere. 
The  most  common  is 
the  Palmyra  palm, 
which  the  natives  tap 
to  make  an  intoxicat- 
ing drink  called 
toddy.  You  can  see 
an  earthen  pot  hang- 
ing from  the  to])  of 
most  of  tliem,  and  a 
native  climbs  the  tree 
night  and  morning  to 
gather  and  replace  the  pots.  The  tree  is  always  beautiful 
and  makes  almost  any  scene  a  picture  of  grace  and  loveliness. 
At  Sahebgange  we  left  our  train  and  sailed  up  the 
Ganges  for  an  hour  or  more,  to  connect  with  the  train  run- 


A  HIMALAYAN  PASS. 


A'ns. 


FROM  Till-:  IIIMAI.A  Y  IS  TO  THE  liOOCIII.  Y 


233 


The  small 
cooked  and 
larshness  of 

queen  of 
?es  is  the 
ee  varieties 
The  date 
te  commcn. 
lut  palm  is 
■onsideiable 
in  Bombay, 
I  elsewhere, 
common  is 
yia  palm, 
natives  tap 
1  intoxicat- 
\k  called 
)u  can  see 

pot  hang- 
the  top  of 
lem,  and  a 
lbs  the  tree 
morning  to 
>^s  beautiful 
1  loveliness, 
led  up    the 

train  run- 


t 

iiing  northward  to  our  destination  in  the  Himalaya  :iTo'tn- 

tains. 

It  was  an  interesting  sail  on  the  ancient  river,  with  its 
sandy  shores  audits  broad  expanse,  diversified  here  and  there 
by  the  strangest  looking  old  ships  we  ever  saw,  drawn  by 
Cooli(>s  on  the  banks  by  means  of  a  long  rope  from  the  mast- 
head. At  length  Ave  disembai'ked  and  took  the  train  north- 
ward to  Siliguri  at  the  base  of  the  Himalaya  Mountains. 

Then  began  an  eight  hours"  journey  which  we  shall  ever 
remember  with  intense  vis^idness  and  !)leasure.     It  was   the 
ascent  of  tlie  Himalayas  by  rail.     It  was  not  a  long  ride, 
only  fifty  miles,  but  it  took  us  all  day  to  go  these  fifty  miles, 
and,  at  no  time,  could  the  engine  exceed  seven  miles  an  hour. 
In  these  fifty  miles  we  ascended  nearly  S,(»00  feet,  or  more 
than  a  mile  and  a  half,  and  the  grade,  at  some  points,  was 
as  steep  as  one  foot  in  twenty.     We  have  had  a  good  many 
mountain  climbs  and  mountain  \iews,     the  Alps,  the  Kes- 
wick liills,  Ben  Lomond  and  the  Scottish  Mountains,  the 
Whi+e  Mountains,  the  peaks  and  passes  of  the  Itockies,  the 
'■■  .rras,  and  the  beautiful  Coast  Range,  and  yet  more  lately 
the  terrific  gorges  of  the  Ghauts  at  Mahabelashur  and  Sidney 
Point,— and  we  have  often  accepted  the  old  refrain  as  indis- 

imtable  : 

"  Mont  Blanc  is  the  monarch  of  mountains  ; 
They  crowned  him  long  ago 
On  a  throne  of  rock  'noath  a  dome  of  cloud, 
With  a  diadem  of  snow." 

But  Mont  Blanc  must  yield  the  diadem  to  Kinchin junga, 

and  the  old  Himalayas  claim  the  unapproachable  i)re-emi- 


"ip^ 


234         LARGER   OUTLOOKS  OS'  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

nence.  Never  before  have  we  been  quite  satisfied  with  a 
mountain  view.  It  has  always  been  to  us  a  httle  less  than 
our  ideal.  We  have  always  been  looking  for  something  that 
was  really  above  the  clouds. 

But  as  we  stood  the  following  morning,  nearly  8,000  feet 


MOUNT  EVEREST,  FROM  OARJEELING. 

above  the  sea,  at  Ghoom,  and  looked  down  into  the  abyss  a 
mile  and  a  half  below  us,  and  then  up  to  the  snow-crowned 
peaks  that  towered /our  w?7e.s' aftore  even  the  heights  where 
we  were  standing,  we  were  satisfied  ;  imagination  and  mem- 
ory had  fovmd  a  resting  place  at  last  for  the  vision  of  earthly 
majesty.  Some  day  we  hope  to  gaze  upon  the  Hills  of  God 
and  the  Throne  above  the  clouds,  but  earth  can  have  few 


YDS. 

led  with  a 
5  h'ss  than 
Jthing  that 

'  8,000  feet 


le  abyss  a 
w^-crowned 
;hts  where 
and  meni- 
of  earthly 
:ills  of  God 
have  few 


FROM  Till:  IllMAL.  I )'-  />   TO  Till.  IIOQi.lll  Y. 


235 


suLlimer  visionH  than  these  majestic  depths  of  mist,  and 
domes  of  eternal  snow.  Kinchin junga  and  Everest,  the  two 
highest  peaks  visible  from  Darjeeling,  are  about  'J!>,()0()  feet 
high,  or  more  than  two  miles  liigherthan  Mont  Blanc,  or  the 
peaks  of  the  Rocky  Mountains— or  even  the  Sierras. 

The  most  remarkable  featuie  of  these  vast  mountains  is 
the  abrui)tness  of  their  rise.  You  are  approaching  the;  Rocky 
Mountains  for  miles,  and  when  their  peaks  come  into  view 
you  are  already  5,000  feet  above  the  sea,  and  they  are  only 
about  10,000  above  you.  But  the  Himalayas  rise  like  a  great 
perpendicular  wall  directly  from  their  base.  You  travel 
along  a  level  plain  right  up  them,  and  their  great,  huge 
shoulders  begin  to  emerge  from  the  horizon  before  you  have 
reached  an  elevation  of  50O  feet.  Ghoom  itself,  which  is 
nearly  S,000  feet  high,  is  not  twenty-five  miles  in  a  straight 
line  from  the  plain,  although  it  takes  fifty  miles  of  winding 
through  the  valleys  to  reach  it. 

The  objective  point  of  our  journey  was  Darjeeling,  a  hill 
station,  and  the  terminus  of  the  Darjeeling  and  Himalayan 
Railway.  It  was  built  as  a  military  station  and  summer 
health  resort,  and  is  removed  far  above  the  heat  of  the  India 
sum'  'r.  The  railroad  has  been  open  for  ten  years  and  it  is 
a  marv.  1  of  engineering  skill.  It  is  interesting  to  watch  its 
windings  around  the  hills  and  its  zig-zags  up  the  mountain 
sides.  Sometimes  it  runs  round  the  same  hill  in  a  spiral,  as- 
cending course  several  times ;  sometimes  it  reverses  and 
switches  back  and  then  forward  several  times  in  a  zig-zag 
course  up  the  hill-side.      Talk  of  the  famous   "  Horseshoe 


236 


/../A'o7;a'  0/  7 /.(>() a:s  ox  m/ss/ox.ia')'  r.A.vns. 


Ciirvt)"  of  i\w  Allf'ghcnies.  why,  this  little  track  somotimes 
runs  round  a  i)orf»'(;t  circle  of  loss  than  a  hundred  feet,  and 
(losses  itself,  until  the  front  and  rear  cars  form  a  semicircle. 
The  ganj;(!  is  only  two  feet  wide  and  twists  about  like  an 
elastic  little  sei-jjent. 

Of  course,  the  views  as  you  ascend  are  vtny  fine.  Often 
you  look  down  a  pei'ijendicnlar  cliflf  into  a  gorge  one  thou- 
sand feet  dee]).     N'alley  after  valley  si)reads  out  before  you  as 

you  a  s- 
cend,  and 
the  d  i  8- 
t.int  plain 
and  the 
rive  r 
w  i  n  d 
thro  ugh 
it  until  all 
are  lost  in 
the  dim 
distance  ;  while  above  you  new  heights  tower  up,  and  each 
elevation  is  only  a  foot-hill  for  some  grander  peak. 

Tlie  vegetation  is  very  fine.  After  we  had  got  uj)  a  few 
hundred  f(>et  we  got  into  the  first  forests  we  had  seen  in  India. 
The  thing  most  noticeably  absent  in  this  land  is  forest  tree^'. 
There  are  plenty  of  small  trees,  but  the  great  giants  of  the 
forest— trees  from  sixty  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high— 
we  have  nowhere  seen,  except  in  the  Himalayas.  But  here 
they  are  in  all  their  glory,  vying  with  the  hills  for  immensity,— 


A  HIMALAYAN  PEAK. 


yps. 


FROM  THE  HIM  ALA  YAS  TO  THE  HOOGHL  K  237 


:  Koniotimos 

(1  foot,  a!ul 

8eniicircl(i. 

imfc  like  an 

ine.     Often 
s  one  thon- 
ifoie  you  as 
y  o  11    as- 
cend, and 
<li(;    d  i  8- 
tant  plain 
and    t  li  e 
rive  r 
w    i    n  d 
through 
it  luitilall 
are  lost  in 
the    d  i  ni 
p,  and  each 

)t  uj)  a  few 
ion  in  India, 
'crest  treef*. 
ants  of  the 
feet  high— 
.  But  here 
iimensity, — 


great    t  o  a  k 
trees    with 
leaves  a  foot 
in    diameter, 
mahogany 
tr(!es,  the  sil- 
ver ilex,  the 
hanyan     and 
others  we  did 
not   know. 
Then    the 
vinos  and 
creepers  were 
still     fi  n  o  r. 
Immense 
parasites  like 
grape  vines 
ran  up  the 
trunks  of  the 
trees  for  one 
hundred  feet, 

and    then 

threw  down  a 

whole    n  e  t- 

w  o  r  k       o  f 

streamers  and  vines,  and  covered  the  forest  with  a  wealth  of 

foliage  and  bloom.    Sometimes  they  would   be  interlaced 

around  the  tree  in  a  thousand  cross  lines  until  it  looked  like 


SCENE  IN   THE  HIMALAYAS. 


I 


238         LARGEK  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

a  web  of  white  lace  acrosp  a  clotli  of  ^rccn.  Sometimes  one 
groat  vine,  with  ir  inoiiBe  pahii  like  leaveH,  would  wiiul  itself 
aiound  a  tje«'  in  regulai-  spiral  ciiive  all  the  way  up.  until  it 
litoked  like  some  great  pillar  deeurate<l  with  a  wreath  oC  palm. 
Sometitnes  the  creeper  would  throw  a  great  string  of  im- 
mense white  blossoms  and  fasten  it  to  some  more  distant  tree, 
until  it  hung  like  a  great  festoon  of  flowers,  as  if  for  some 
high  festival. 

Many  of  the  trees  were  in  bloom.  There  is  one  very 
beautiful  tree  in  the  India  foi'c^sts,  that  has  no  leaves  but  is 
c()V(;red  coin|)letely  ovei'  with  immense  scarlet  flowers,  and  it 
looks  just  like  a  blaze  of  flame.  There  are  many  of  these  in 
the  Himalayan  valleys  and  they  light  up  the  landscape  with 
great  pictures(pienoss.  There  are  many  fine  ferns  all  along 
the  road,  and  after  we  reached  the  4,oo()  feet  line  we  found  a 
great  many  innnense  tree  ferns  of  exceeding  grace  and  beauty, 
some  of  them  twenty  to  thirty  feet  high. 

But  the  prettiest  things  were  the  tea  plantations.  There 
were  a  few  at  the  base,  but  as  we  reached  an  elevation  of 
4,0()(»  to  5,000  feet  they  covered  all  the  hillsides  with  their 
beautiful  rows  of  brilliant  green.  The  plant  has  a  hard  and 
brilliant  leaf  of  dark  green  with  a  very  close  compact  habit 
of  growth,  and  looks  very  much  like  the  boxwood  w^hich  we 
use  for  garden  borders.  It  grows  as  a  compact  little  bush, 
about  two  feet  high.  They  are  planted  in  rows  about  two 
feet  apart,  and  a  dozen  plantations  spread  over  several  miles 
of  hills  and  valleys.  With  the  long  rows  stretching  up  the 
mountains,  winding  like  emerald  rings  around  the  hilltops, 


■^~j 


J. 


LANDS. 

ornotimes  one 
lid  wind  itsolf 
ly  lip,  until  it 
icath  ol'  palm, 
string  of  im- 
e  distant  tree, 
18  if  for  some 

e  is  one  very 
leaves  but  is 
luvvyrs,  and  it 
ly  of  those  in 
indscape  with 
iins  all  along 
le  we  found  a 
:!e  and  beauty, 

itions.  There 
1  elevation  of 
les  with  their 
as  a  hard  and 
ompact  habit 
ood  which  we 
ct  little  bush, 
V8  about  two 
several  miles 
ching  up  the 
i  the  hilltops, 


iRo.y  I  III:  HIM.  II..  n  .  is  /<  >  i  iii:  inn  x.iii.  y. 


239 


and  tlu' wliite  zig/Jig  i)aths  cut  ihiough  tlwui  up  and  down 
llu'  mouiitaiiiK,  whilf  hove  and  tli<Mc,  at  the  prettiest  points, 
llu'  white,  artistic  tea  houses  ar«*  dotted  through  the  picture, 
]ik(*  white  pearls  in  an  emerald  setting— the  effect  is  very 
lovely. 

There  are  110  less  than  400  tea  plantations  in  the  Darjeel- 


8TREET  IN  KHATMANDU,  NEAR  THIBET. 

ing  valley  and  vicinity,  most  of  them  owned  and  carried  on 
by  ICnglishmen.  The  business  is  aVery  profital)le  one.  The 
tea  is  the  finest  in  the  world,  -ind  he  that  has  once  tasted  the 
genuine  "  Pekoe  Dust  "  ir.  spoiled  for  any  other  that  we  have 
yet  seen  or  tasted.  It  is  ■ ;  illy  one  of  God's  boons  to  the  peo- 
ple of  India. 


Jl 


r 


n 


240         LARGER   OCTLOOA'S  ON  J/fSS/ChVARV  LAXDS. 

At  every  railway  station  restaurant,  and  they  are  very 
numerous  and  very  well  managed,  you  can  get  your  "  Cha,"' 
and  it  is  always  good,  and  always  cheap,  and  is  really  a  sub- 
stitute with  very  many  for  the  alcoholic  stimulants  used  so 
nmch  in  England  and  America.  It  is  most  harmless  and 
wholesome,  and,  like  the  curry,  seems  especially  suited  for  the 
climate  of  India.  We  drank  it  in  the  morning,  and  could 
work  on  it ;  we  drank  it  at  midnight,  and  could  sleep  on  it  just 
as  comfortably. 

But  much  more  interesting  to  us  than  either  the  moun- 
tains or  their  luxuriant  vegetation  were  the  people  we  met. 
We  had  come  to  the  Himalayas  not  to  look  at  the  snowy 
heights  or  the  green  valleys,  but  because  we  had  felt,  for  a 
long  time,  that  this  was,  perhaps,  for  us  the  Gateway  into 
that  mysterious  and  long-closed  land — the  last  citadel  of 
heathenism — Thibet. 

To  reach  this  land  our  Missionary  Alliance  was  really 
organized  six  years  ago.  It  has  been  the  object  of  ceaseless 
prayer  with  many  that  God  would  open  its  doors  to  the  Gos- 
pel. A  brave  party  of  pioneers  left  us,  a  year  ago,  to  attempt 
to  enter  it  from  Cliina,  and,  with  the  Chinese  language 
already  acquired,  they  are  now  waiting  our  arrival  at  Wuhu, 
to  go  forward,  as  the  Lord  may  open  the  way  to  the  borders 
of  the  Mountain  Land".  Since  they  left  for  China  the  Lord 
has  laid  it  much  on  our  heart  that  there  must  also  be  a  mis- 
sionary gateway  to  Thibet  from  India,  and  one  of  the  objects 
of  our  journey  was  to  see  if  it  could  be  found.  With  this  in 
view  we  had  made  much  careful  inquiry  at  Bareilly,  and 


'  LAXDS. 

.  they  are  very- 
it  your  "  Cha," 
is  really  a  sub- 
lulants  used  so 
t  harmless  and 
ly  suited  for  the 
ling,  and  could 
i  sleep  on  it  just 

;her  the  moun- 
people  we  met. 
at  the  snowy 
had  felt,  for  a 
3  Gateway  into 
last  citadel  of 

nee  was  really 
ect  of  ceaseless 
3ors  to  the  Gos 
ago,  to  attempt 
iuese  language 
•rival  at  Wuhu, 
'■  to  the  borders 
China  the  Lord 
it  also  be  a  mis- 
e  of  the  objects 
.  With  this  in 
t  Bareilly,  and 


FROM  THE  IIIMALA  YAS  TO  Till-:  IIOOCUI.  )'. 


241 


found  tliat  their  was  a  good  deal  of  iiitercouiso  witli  Thibet- 
ans, by  way  of  Pittlioragurh  (Miss  Buddiii's  Mission)  and  the 
country  just  west  of  Ne])aul.  But  that  field  is  well  occujiied 
by  the  Methodist  Mission,  and  they  are  ready  to  enter  the 


THIBETAN  MONASTERY  IN  THE  HIMALAYAS. 


first  opening.  They  have  also  half  a  dozen  stations  along  the 
southern  border  of  Nepaul,  ready  to  enter  that  country,  which 
is  also  unoccupied,  at  the  earliest  opening. 

As  we  have  prayed  about  it,  the  Lord  has  laid  it  upon  our 


^itaSaAfi-'sl 


fF" 


I  I 


n  ^ 


242 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


lieart  that  for  lis  the  nearest  and  most  availahle  gateway  was 
through  tlie  country  just  east  of  Nepaul  and  west  of  Bhotan, 
hoth  of  wliich  are  still  uuevangehzed,  and  so  would  he  also 
within  reach  of  such  a  station.  But,  more  important  than 
this,  the  point  we  have;  indicated  is  the  nearest  point  on  Eng- 
lish territory  to  Thihet,  and  on  the  direct  roads  to  its  chief 
mountain  pass,  and  only  four  day's  journey,  or  less  than  one 
hundred  miles  from  the  fiontier,  and  it  was  natural  to  sup- 
pose that  a  good  many  Thihetans  would  he  found  in  the  val- 
leys outside  the  horders. 

We  have  not  heen  disappointed  in  our  hopes.     Not  only 
did  we  find  Darjeeling  nearer  the  horders  of  Thihet  than  any 
other  accessible  point  on  English  territory,  but  we  also  found 
that   Thibet  had  begun  to  come  to  Darjeeling.     From  the 
moment  we  began  to  ascend  the  mountains  we  found  our- 
selves among  an  entirely  new  race.     Their  faces  were  utterly 
different  from  the  Hindus.     They  were  short  and  thickset, 
with  high  cheek-hones  and  fat  faces,  and  a  good  deal  like  the 
Chinese,  but  much  brighter  and  better-looking.     All  the  way 
lip  we  met  them  on  the  road,  many  of  them  carrying  great 
bundles,  and  whole  families  of  them  in  the  villages  sitting 
together  with  their  wives  and  children.     The  children  looked 
so  cunning  with  their  round,  flat  faces  and  little  almond 
eyes.     They  all  speak  Thibetan.    We  fell  in  love  with  them 
right  away.     They  seem  en  to  be  our  own  people.     The  Lord 
laid  them  strangely  on  our  hearts,  and  we  felt  it  would  be  a 
joy  to  live  among  them  and  love  them  into  Christianity. 

We  believe  God  is  yet  going  to  let  us  have  a  great  and 


'-.-  '■iww.wWPj^B.anaMiwg 


'  LAXDS. 

)le  gateway  was 
west  of  Bhotan, 
,0  would  be  also 
important  than 
it  point  on  En^- 
oads  to  its  chief 
or  less  than  one 
;  natural  to  sup- 
ound  in  the  val- 

lopes.     Not  only- 
Thibet  than  any 
it  we  also  found 
ling.     From  the 
IS  we  found  our- 
ices  were  utterly 
rt  and   thickset, 
:ood  deal  like  the 
ig.    All  the  way 
m  carrying  great 
e  villages  sitting 
B  children  looked 
nd  little  almond 
a  love  with  them 
Bople.     The  Lord 
felt  it  would  be  a 
Christianity, 
have  a  great  and 


FROM  THE  HIM  ALA  VAS  TO  THE  HOOGHL  Y.  243 

blessed  work  among  these  i)eoi)le.  As  we  came  to  meet  some 
of  them  we  found  them  a  bright  and  happy  pe()i)le.  The  mis- 
sionaries at  Darjeeling  say  they  are  "  the  joiliest"  people  they 
ever  met.  Most  of  them  live  eight  to  twelve  thousand  feet 
above  the  sea,  and  tlie  bracing  air  makes  them  bright  and 
energetic.  They  seem  to  be  nnich  more  lively  than  the 
Chinese,  although,  of  course,  the  latter  race  possesses  (luali- 


ties  of  strength  and 
to  all  other  nations. 
a^  least,  one  thous- 
ing  in  the  Darjeel- 
reach  of  missiona- 
there,  and,  we  be- 
them  that  we  may 
and  receive  Christ, 
their  people  as  her- 
One  native  is  worth 
an  evangelist  to  a 
we  can  do  nothing 
of  Thibetan  work- 
open,  we  shall  not 


THIBETAN    PRAYING  WHEEL 


endurance  superior 
There  are  now, 
and  Thibetans  liv- 
ing valley,    within 
ries  who  might  labor 
lieve,  God  has  sent 
lead  them  to  know 
and  then  go  back  to 
aids  of  the  Gospel, 
four  foreigners,   as 
new  people,  and  if 
else  but  train  a  band 
ers  until  Thibet  is 
spend  the  time    in 
But  we  believe  we 


vain,  even  if  we  have  to  wait  for  years 

shall  not  have  to  wait,  but  God  will  open  the  doors  of  Thibet 

the  moment  we  are  ready  to  enter. 

The  country  is  closed  at  present  to  foreigners.  It  is  said 
to  be  fifty  years  since  a  European  visited  Lhassa,  the  capital. 
There  is  special  jealousy,  at  present,  of  English  influence. 
There  are  good  reasons  for  it.    The  Thibetans  think  England 


244        i'-iP^GER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


GLACIERS  ON  THE  HIMALAYAS. 

has  a  political  object  in  send- 
ing these  missionaries.  Their 
idea  is — the  missionary  first, 
and  then  the  soldier.  England,  they  say,  has  conquered 
India  and  annexed  Burmah,  their  two  southern  neighbors, 
and  will  be  sure  to  annex  them  if  they  let  her  in. 

This  jealous  feeling  has  been  very  much  increased  by 
some  recent  occurrences.  There  is  a  little  state  just  north  of 
DarjeeUng  called  Sikkim.  It  lies  on  the  southern  border  of 
Thibet.  Owing  to  some  political  troubles  with  its  Eajah, 
England  has  recently  annexed  this  State,  and  put  the  Eajah 
in  prison.  It  happens  that  his  wife  is  a  Thibetan,  and  many 
of  his  people  also.   Of  course,  the  sympathy  of  the  Thibetans 


LANDS. 


FROM  '/'///■:  HI  MAI..  lY.lS  TO  I  III'.  HOOCIII.  Y. 


^5 


E  HIMALAYAS. 

bject  in  send- 
naries.  Their 
ssionary  first, 
has  conquered 
ern  neighbors^ 

in. 

1  increased  by 
e  just  north  of 
hern  border  of 
ith  its  Eajah, 

put  the  Rajah 
tan,  and  many 

the  Thibetans 


is  with  him,  and  there  is  much  feeling  against  England.  A 
few  years  ago  the  Indian  govcrnnK^nt  tried  to  send  a  dejjuta- 
tion  to  Thibet  to  o]ien  connneroial  relations  between  the  two 
countries,  but  the  Thibetans  refused  them  entrance,  and  they 
had  to  turn  back  fi-om  the  border. 

A  Conference  is  being  held  at  this  very  time  at  Kenc^hin- 
jung,  a  place  inside  the  Thibetan  border,  between  the  English 
conmiissioners  and  the  Thibetan  government,  and  it  is  hoped 
the  i-esult  will  be  the  opening  of  trade  relations  between 
Thibet  and  India.  If  this  is  done,  the  missionary  will  follow 
in  due  time. 

We  found  more  woik  at  I )arjeeling  than  we  expected. 
The  Scotch  Established  Church  has  a  mission  and  is  building 
a  new  church.  They  have  a  good  many  native  workers  and 
several  hundred  mmnbtn-s  in  Sikkim,  the  annexed  district, 
but  they  an;  working  chieHy  among  the  Nepaulese  and  peo- 
l)lo  of  Bhotan,  who  live  on  British  territory.  There  is  really 
no  mission  yet  directly  in  either  Nepaul  or  Bhotan,  but  a 
good  many  of  the  i)eople  of  both  these  countries  ai-e  being 
reached  on  theii-  holders. 

We  ai-e  also  glad  to  find  a  little  party  of  Swedish  mis- 
sionaries at  Darjeeling.  Al)Out  a  year  ago,  through  the  in- 
strumentality of  Mr.  Franson,  a  good  many  missionaries 
were  sent  out  by  the  Swedish  churches  of  America.  Nine  of 
these  came  to  Darjeeling  with  a  view  to  reaching  Thibet. 
They  had  but  little  pi-eparation  for  their  work  and  were  utter 
strangers  to  the  field  and  the  people.  But  God  has  guarded 
theni  very  graciously  and  led  them  through  many  dangers. 


m 


246 


/../A'c/r/v'  orr/.ooKs  ox  Mrzsiox.iA'v  /..ixns. 


1  ■ 


We  were  most  providentially  led  to  them  and  received  nmch 
kindness  from  them,  and,  wo  trust,  were  made  a  blessing  to 
them. 

We  found  three  young  gentlemen  living  at  Darjeeling, 
and  four  of  the  young  ladies  at  Ghoom,  a  laige  village  about 
four  miles  away.  Both  towns  are  full  of  Thibetans.  Wo 
found  them  studying  the  language  bravely,  and  some  of  them 
able  to  talk  considerable  Thibetan.  They  were  a  little  dis- 
couraged at  the  obstacles  that  had  been  thrown  in  their  way 
by  the  refusal  of  the  British  Government  to  let  them  enter 
Sikkim.  But  we  encouraged  them  to  persevere  and  promised 
them  that,  as  soon  as  we  could,  W(^  should  send  out  some 
workers  to  this  field  to  help  them.  Tliey  assured  us  of  a  most 
hearty  welcome,  and  full  co-operation.  Indeed,  they  met  us 
very  much  as  did  our  missionaries,  and  we  believe  received  a 
new  inspiration  for  their  work  fi'om  the  Lord. 

But  we  believe  God  will  soon  give  this  land  to  His  Church, 
and  Thibet  seems  many  thousand  miles  nearer  us  since  we 
have  looked  over  upon  its  mountain  heights,  and  gazed  upon 
the  faces  of  its  dear  peo])le. 

We  met  with  some  very  interesting  people  in  the  home 
of  our  dear  Swedish  friends.  One  of  them  was  a  learned  Ben- 
gali Pundit,  who  had  lived  many  years  in  Thibet,  and  has 
written  much  about  it.  He  is  the  owner  of  the  house  in 
which  our  friends  live,  and  has  called  the  house  Lhassa.  after 
the  capital  of  Thibet.  He  will  prove  a  useful  friend  to  the 
work.  We  shall  be  glad  to  publish  some  of  his  interesting 
papers  on  this  strange  land. 


/..I.\7)S. 

I  received  much 
,de  a  blessing  to 

j;  at  Darjeeling, 
^0  village!  about 
Thibetans.  Wo 
d  some  of  them 
ere  a  little  dis- 
vn  in  their  way 
I  let  them  enter 
•0  and  promised 
send  out  some 
ed  us  of  a  most 
sd,  they  met  us 
lieve  received  a 

L  to  His  Church, 
rer  us  siuce  we 
and  gazed  upon 

pie  in  the  home 
i  a  learned  Ben- 
Thibet,  and  has 
if  the  house  in 
30  Lhassa,  after 
ul  friend  to  the 
his  interesting 


F/^oM  THE  Himalayas  to  thf.  ikhhuii.  y. 


247 


Another  whoni  we  met  was  the  teacher  of  our  friends. 
He  is  a  bright,  young  Thibetan  scholar,  and  wrote  his  name 
in  Thibetan  in  our  journal,  and  promised  to  write  and  let  us 
know  when  lie  became  a  Christian,  that  we  might  send  him 
a  Bible.     Another  was  their  servant,  a  handsome  and  bright 
Thibetan  lad.     One  of  the  most  interesting  of  all  was  an  old 
Lama,   aged    seventy-four.       We  found    him  busy  at  his 
prayers  about  six  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  he  received 
us  very  kindly,  but  kept  praying  away  while  we  talked.     He 
sang  his  prayers  aloud,  and  between  the  notes  every  few  sec- 
ondj;  he  would  ring  a  bell  sharply  to  call  the  attention  of  the 
gods,     ih)  said  he  first  worshipped  the  Buddhist  Trinity,  and 
the.i,  after  he  got  their  permission,  he  made  his  offerings  to 
the  earth  gods.     His  offerings  were  rice  and  water,  which  he 
kept  placing,  with  a  spoon,  in  a  sacred  vessel,  singing  and 
ringing  away  as  he  poured  it  in.     He  expressed  a  great  desire 
to  have  an  American  inkstand,  and  we  gave  him  the  only  ink 
bottle  we  had,  a  rather  nice  one,  done  up  in  a  leather  case,  for 
travelling.     He  expressed  himself  as  nmch  pleased,  and  gave 
us,  in  return,  some  incense  papers  for  our  Museum.     We  ex- 
pect to  find  our  ink  bottle  again,  "after  many  days,"  in  some 
Thibetan  valley,  and  to  learn  that  it  has  borne  more  fruit 
than  if  it  had  been  used  to  write  missionary  letters. 

The  most  interesting  sight  of  all  was  a  score  of  Thibetan 
children  whom  we  met  at  the  Ladies'  Home  at  Ghoom.  They 
formed  the  classes  in  their  Sunday  School.  We  had  a  photo- 
graph taken  of  them,  and  we  claimed  them  as  the  first  fruits 
of  Thibet. 


f 


248         I.ARGl-.R  OVTLOOKS  OX  MISSIOXARY  I.AXDS. 

We  had  the  jilcjisiui'  <if  iiicctiii};  ^li'.  Tunibull,  Supeiiii- 
t('ii(l(>ut  of  the  Scotch  Mission,  and  his  excellent  wife,  and 
also  Mr.  and  Mrs.  lirown,  in  charge  of  the  Union  English 
Church.  We  liad  a  good  view  of  the  beautiful  town  of  Dar- 
jeeling,  and  next  morning  went  over  to  Ghoom  to  see  tho 


SWEDISH  MISSIONARIES  AT  DARJEELINQ. 
A  "  Kodak"  photograph  takeu  by  Mr.  Siiupsou, 


ladies  of  the  Mission.  The  gentlemen  accompanied  us,  and 
we  spent  two  blessed  hours  at  the  feet  of  Jesus,  putting 
down  the  soles  of  our  feet  vei-y  firmly  upon  Thibet,  and  feel- 
ing very  sure  that  God  has  given  it  to  us. 

As  we  came  down  from  the  mountain  we  felt  that  our 


/../.was: 

iihiill,  Suporiu- 
Uciit  wife,  and 
Union  J'^iiglisli 
il  town  of  Dar- 
)om  to  st'c  the 


panied  us,  and 
Jesus,   putting 
ibet,  and  feel- 
felt  that  our 


Fh'^)^r  I  III'.  iiiM.u  f  y.  is  to  riir.  iioociii.  v. 


249 


A-isit  to  India  was  about  linished.  In  a  most  veniaikable 
mannei-  God  liad  led  us  to  the  places  that  had  been  laid  on 
our  hearts,  and  made  them  mean  much  more  to  us  than  wo 
had  over  hopcul.  The  seeing  of  the  country  itself  has  had 
little  interest  to  usapai't  from  its  connection  with  the  Master's 
work  and  kingdom. 


QOVERNMENT  HOUSE,  CALCUTTA. 

Twenty-four  hours  brought  lis  to  Calcutta,  and  although 
we  had  a  little  while  to  spare  in  that  stately  capital  of  the 
great  Indian  Empire,  and  felt  impressed  with  its  superb  mag- 
nificence as  we  drove  through  the  spacious  streets  and  al- 
most boundless  parks  and  gardens,  yet  we  felt  that  we  were 
not  needed  here,  and  were  glad  that  we  wei-e  to  pass  on  so 


mmm 


'Tr 


!i 


I  H 


250     /.AHaiiiA'  oi'TLoohs  o.Y  A//ss/o.\\iA'}  /..i.vns. 


BANYAN  TREE,  ROYAL  BOTANICAL  GARDENS,  CALCUTTA. 

soon  to  other  lands,  where  God  is  bidding  us  lift  up  our  eyes 
on  the  liarvests  that  are  white  also. 

We  called  at  the  beautiful  Methodist  Parsonag*^  and  heard 
of  the  good  work  of  our  brethreii  in  the  oity  ;  also  of  the 
Woman's  Union  work,  and  several  English  and  S(X)tch  Soeie- 
ties. 


1  -.~:F^^^^S!'~-iiJf^:iV>tl 


AND6. 


r¥- 


*f\ 


E^C^-I/'^ 


FA. 


b  up  our  eyes 

ig(>uM(l  lieard 

;  also  of  tlio 

Scotch  Socie- 


FROM  riiE  HIM.  If.  I »  />  /<>  i">'  Hoo<;in.  v.        25 1 

Wo  went  to  tilt'  Itoyal  Hotiiiiicnl  (^aniens,  four  iiiilrs 
below  the  <-ity  ..11  the  other  side  of  the  Hooglily,  Juul  saw  the 
wondeiful  Hanyan  Tree  of  which  every  school  hoy  has  read, 
which  cov«'rs  with  its  hram^hes  a  space  of  L'C.o  fe«!t  in  diam- 
eter, or  ino.e  than  a  whole  city  block.  We  walked  down  th.» 
double  avenue  of  palms  which  stand  twenty  feet  a]. art,  a 
double  line  of  glorious  lullars  along  an  avenue  r.uO  feet  long. 
It  was  the  grandest  piece  of    architiM'tnre  we    ever  saw. 


THE  HOOQHLY  RIVER. 


Straight  as  an  arrow,  unifoim  in  size  and  height,  these  glo- 
rious white  columns  rose  for  fifty  feet,  and  then  all,  at  pre- 
cisely the  same  height,  terminated  in  a  crown  such  as  no 
architect  could  carve.  This  garden,  a  mile  long,  contains,  per- 
haps, the  finest  collection  of  tropical  vegetation  in  the  worM. 
On  our  way  home  we  took  a  boat  and  had  a  genuine  sad 
on  the  Hooghly.  It  would  have  made  our  readers  laugh  till 
they  cried  if  they  could  have  seen  us.  The  boat  was  big 
enough  to  hold  fifty  nuui,  but  it  was  the  smallest  we  saw  on 
the  river.     They  are  all  great,  monstrous,  outlandish  lookmg 


t!|i 


252      J..-iR(;rR  or-r/.noA-s  ox  .vrssrox.wy  a^ixdm: 

tliiiip;.s.  It  has  a  givat  h'n^  cabin  covrivd  with  a  pjeco  of 
Lamhoo  inattiiiK,  as  a  roof,  ami,  of  coin-se,  m-raiigcd  for  ('vory 
ono  to  Hit  croKHlcggcd  on  the  floor,  thn  only  way  a  Hindu 
knows  how  to  sit.  Well,  wo  got  in  tho  old  rickoty  thing  and 
Kit  down,  and  then  two  half-naked  Coolies  la^gan  to  propel 
it,  whilo  one  stt'cn'd.  But  tho  i»ro|HHing  apparatus  !  Well, 
it  consisted  of  two  long  haniboo  poles,  about  thirty  feet  long, 
which  they  stuck  down  inlo  iln  bottom  (.f  th(>  river,  one  on 
each  Hide,  and  pushed  the  boat  with,  and  when  they  had  pushed 
tho  boat's  l(>ngth  they  would  race  forward,  stick  the  judo  down, 

and  give  another  long  push,  and  so  back  ward  and  forward  these 
two  half-naked  Coolies  trotted,  pushing  us  along  tho  shallow 
edge  of  tlu*  liver  until  tho  sun  went  down  over  Calcutta,  and 
the  lanij/s  flashed  out  along  its  avenues  and  streets.  Our  last 
view  of  India  life  Avas  siu-ely  an  original  one.  But  every 
day  and  hour  brings  otTt  'some  new  side  of  their  siniple  and 
primitive  life.  Poor  tinngs  !  Without  Christ  their  life  is 
very  bmall,  and  we  were  wondering,  to-day,  whether  they  or 
tlie  birds  that  flutter  about  them  have  most  to  live  for. 


•^  iiil 


r..i.\'ns. 

»'ith  a  piece  of 
iiiK<'<l  for  every 
•  way  a  Hindu 
■k(!ty  tiling  and 
('K^'i  to  propel 
iritUH  !  Well, 
lirty  feet  long. 

0  liver,  one  on 
bey  had  pushed 
the  polo  down, 

1  forward  these 
ng  i\m  shallow 
"  Calcutta,  and 
Bets.  Our  last 
e.  But  every 
eir  simple  and 
ist  their  life  is 
hether  they  or 

live  for. 


XV. 


LEAVING  INDIA. 


EXACTLY  Ave  weeks  ago  to-day  we  landed  in  Bombay, 
and  now  we  are  leaving  India.  A  few  hours  ago 
we  waved  the  last  farewell  signal  to  dear  Brother 
Fuller  on  the  Mackinnon  Ghat,  C.Vcutta  ;  and  now  we  are 
passing  out  into  the  Bay  of  Bosrtu,  and  the  low,  marshy 
shores  of  Sagar  Island,  with  their  tiger-haunted  jungles,  are 
disappearing  from  view. 

It  is  a  good  time  to  pause  and  take  one  more  look  at  this 
great  land,  and  gather  up  some  of  the  lessons  and  impressions 
which  even  this  short  visit  has  brought  us. 

First,  we  want  to  thank  God  for  His  wonderful  goodness 
in  all  our  journeyings.  Unavoidably  compelled  to  come  to 
India  in  the  month  which  is  usually  regarded  as  the  beginning 
of  the  hot  season,  many  of  our  friends  thought  that  we  were 
running  considerable  risk  in  attempting  much  travelling  in 
March.  But  God  has  very  graciously,  and,  in  a  most  unusual 
measure,  moderated  the  weather,  and  given  us  His  strength, 
so  that  we  have  not  lost  an  hour  on  acc^ount  of  the  weather, 
or  been  compelled  to  suffer  in  any  extreme  way. 


253 


Ij  ill 


If 


=54 


LARGER   OUri.OOkS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


We,  especially,  wish  to  thank  God  for  the  amount  of 
work  we  have  heen  enahled  to  accomplish.  In  thirty-five 
days  we  have  travelled  r),2(;!>  miles  by  rail,  and  more  than  300 
by  carriage  or  cart.  We  have  spent  twenty-one  nights  on 
railway  trains  and  only  fourteen  nights  in  a  bed.  And  the 
railways  of  India  have  no  Pullman  sleepers,  but  you  just  lie 
down  on  the  seat  in  your  clothes  and  cover  yourself  with 
your  rugs  and  go  to  sleep.  But  we  are  as  fresh  and  well  as 
when  we  began  our  journey,  and  the  Lord  has  kept  us  from 
exhaustion  and  harm. 

We  have,  also,  l)e«m  permitted  to  see  a  good  deal  of  the 
country.  We  have  i;  a  veiled  through  a  considerable  portion 
of  each  of  tiie  three  Presidencies  :  Madras,  Bombay  and 
Bengal,  and  also  the  Northwest  Provinces,  and  even  touched 
the  Punjaub  We  have  passed  through  the  native  states  of 
Hyderabad,  Mysore,  Baroda,  Guzerat,  Rajpootana,  and  the 
borders  of  Nepaul  and  Bhotan.  We  have  had  the  privilege 
of  seeing  something  of  the  greatest  cities  of  India, — Bombay, 
Calcutta,  Madras,  Bangalore,  Poona,  Baroda,  Delhi,  Agra, 
Cawnpore,  Lucknow,  Bareilly,  Patna.  We  have  seen  some 
of  India's  rivers— the  Ganges,  the  Nerbuddah,  and  the 
Hooghly.  And  we  have  crossed  or  climbed  some  of  its 
famous  mountains — the  Ghauts,  the  Vindhyas  and  the  Him- 
alayas. 

We  have  been  able  to  visit  a  few  of  the  Missions,  and 
have  had  the  jirivilege  of  meeting  personally  about  one  huu- 
dred  and  fifty  of  he  missionaries.  Especially  do  we  thank 
God  that  He  has  permitted  us  to  caiTy  out  most  of  His  plans 


-mmit 


'  LAXDS. 

the  amount  of 
In  thirty-five 
(1  more  than  300 
yr-one  nights  on 
bed.  And  the 
)ut  you  just  He 
'r  yourself  with 
esh  and  well  as 
s  kept  us  from 

ood  deal  of  the 
iderable  portion 
,s,  Bombay  and 
id  even  touched 
native  states  of 
ootana,  and  the 
ad  the  privilege 
ndia, — Bombay, 
a,  Delhi,  Agra, 
have  seen  some 
iddah,  and  the 
led  some  of  its 
as  and  the  Him- 

e  Missions,  and 
about  one  huu- 
Uy  do  we  thank 
lost  of  His  plans 


j./:.irixi;  /.\7>/.i. 


255 


ig,  and  has  not 


which  were  laid  u[K)n  our  heait  before  coniii 
disai)p()inted  us  in  any  way, or  permitted  us  to  miss  a  single  rail- 
way connection,  or  fail  to  reach  a  single  appointment.  We 
liave  had  the  joy  of  visiting  those  Missions,  especially  where 
God  has  so  wonderfully  poured  out  His  Holy  Spirit  and  we 


INTERIOR  OF  A  NATIVE  STORE. 


have  been  enabled  to  see  some  of  the  best  results  of  modern 
missionary  work,  as  well  as  some  of  the  most  destitute  and 
neglected  heathen  fields. 

We  have  had  much  to  thank  God  for  in  the  companion- 
ship of  our  dear  brother,  Mr.  Fuller,  in  these  rapid  journey- 
ings.    His  knowledge  of  two  languages  of  India,  the  Marathi 


iKrrsu'SSS!F??»r5'5.-cT.-5,r'^" 


ffffl"^'" 


IMHI 


256 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MLSSLOXARY  f.AXPS. 


and  Hiiidustaiii,  lias  carried  us  almost  cvcrywliere,  and  hi* 
experience  of  the  country  has  greatly  facilitated  all  our  plans  ; 
while,  on  the  other  hand,  he  has  gained  a  knowledge  of  the 
country,  and  an  extended  acquaintance  among  the  Missions, 
wliich  will  he  of  the  greatest  value  t<>  liim  in  directing  our 
work  in  India. 

Wevvisli,  also,  to  thank  our  missionary  friends  in  the 
various  Missions  for  their  hospitality  and  kindness  every- 
where. We  have  found  it  very  difficult  to  get  to  a  hotel  any- 
where, and  the  simple  hospitality  of  Christian  homes  in  India 
cannot  well  he  exaggerated.  Besides,  one  can  see  and  under- 
stand the  country  so  much  hetter  under  the  guidance  of  those 
who  live  in  it. 

Our  object  in  coming  to  India  was  threefold,  viz.:  first, 
to  see  our  own  missionaries,  cheer  and  counsel  them  in  their 
work,  and  find  out  new  openings  for  the  further  extension 
of  the  work  in  other  parts  of  India  ;  secondly,  to  visit  other 
missions,  especially  those  that  have  had  the  marked  seal  and 
blessing  of  God  upon  them  ;  and  thirdly,  so  far  as  time  and 
opportunity  allowed,  subordinately  to  these  first  two  objects, 
to  see  and  learn  as  much  as  possible  about  India  and  its 
people.  < 

Reversing  the  order  of  these  points,  we  will  now  endeavor 
to  STimmarize  the  results  of  what  we  have  learned. 

First,  as  to  India  and  its  people.  Cut  out  of  the  United 
States  the  country  east  of  the  Missouri  River,  and  multiply  its 
population  of  about  40,000,000  by  7  and  you  will  have  the  size 
and  population  of  India.     These  people  all  live  in  cities,  towns 


/..I.V/)S. 


vhevo,   and   his- 
'dull  our  plans  ; 
owledj^e  of  tlie 
g  tho  Missions, 
1  directing  our 


friends  in  the 
dndness  over)'- 
;  to  a  hotel  any- 
honies  in  India 

see  and  under- 
idance  of  those 

Fold,  viz.:  first, 
:\  them  in  their 
"ther  extension 
,  to  visit  other 
larked  seal  and 
XV  as  time  and 
•st  two  objects, 
t  India  and  its 

1  now  endeavor 
•ned. 

of  the  United 
md  multiply  its 
ill  have  the  size 
in  cities,  towns- 


/./r.//7.\v,'  rxnr.i. 


257 


and  villages.  Tliere  are  no  farm  houses  in  India.  There  are, 
at  least,  a  score  of  great  cities  with  over  1()(\0(hi  inhabitants. 
There  are  twice  as  many  between  5<),00(>  and  loO,000,  and 
there  are,  probably,  a  quarter  of  a  million  smaller  towns  and 
villages  scattered  all  over  the  land.     In  many  cases  the  popu- 


THE  HIQH  COURT,  CALCUTTA. 

latlou  is  as  high  as  three  hundred  to  the  square  mile.  Of 
India's  283,000,000,  at  least  50,000,000  are  Mohammedans, 
and  most  of  the  balance  are  Hindus. 

The  Hindus  are  of  various  castes.     The  Brahmins  are  the 
Mghest,  and  they  are  very  proud  and  exclusive.     There  are, 


Hi 


25'S 


[.ARi:i:R  OCTLOOKS  ox  MfSSroXARY  LANDS. 


nominally,  four  {;i'eat  castes,  but  leally  they  are  much  more 
numerous.  The  lowest  caste,  is,  perhaps,  the  sweepers — 
really  the  scavengers  of  the  cities  and  houses,  and  how  low 
this  work  is  only  one  can  understand  who  has  lived  in  India, 
But  the  lower  one's  caste  is,  the  more  rigid  is  he  in  sticking 
to  it;  and  making  the  most  of  his  little  hit  of  self-import- 
ance. 

Politically,  India  is  divided  into  a  few  great  sections  for 
the  purpose  of  government.  The  most  populous  is  the  Ben- 
gal Presidency  ;  next,  the  Madras  Presidency  ;  then,  the  Bom- 
hay  Presidency.  Besides  the  three  Presidencies  there  are 
several  other  sections  not  included  in  them,  viz.,  the  Central 
Provinces,  the  Northwest  Provinces  and  Oude,  the  Punjaub, 
Sinde,  and  Assam.  Over  each  of  these  there  is  a  Lieutenant 
Governor,  and  suj^reme  over  all — a  Viceroy  or  Governor 
General.  Besides,  there  are  a  number  of  independent  native 
states  under  British  protection,  such  as  Hyderabad,  Mysore, 
etc.,  aggregating  about  60,000,000  of  people.  In  each  of  these 
there  is  a  British  President,  an  officer  representiiftg  the  Eng- 
lish government,  who  holds  a  sort  of  supervision  over  the 
affairs  of  tlie  state  in  conjunction  with  the  Rajah  or  native 
prince. 

The  government  of  India  is  probably  the  most  perfect  in 
the  world.  It  is  an  absolute  monarchy,  but  it  moves  like  a 
great  machine,  and  even  the  natives  acknowledge  its  infinite 
superiority  to  anything  they  ever  knew.  One  is  overwhelmed 
at  the  thoroughness  of  this  enormous  piece  of  machinery.  In 
every  District  is  a  little  army  of  officials  representing  every  de- 


LANDS. 

are  much  more 
;he  sweepers — 
3,  and  how  low 
lived  in  India, 
he  in  sticking 
of  self-import- 
eat  sections  for 
lous  is  the  Ben- 
then,  the  Bom- 
ncies  there  are 
iz.,  the  Central 
e,  the  Punjaub, 
is  a  Lieutenant 
y  or  Governor 
ipendent  native 
;rabad,  Mysore, 
w  each  of  these 
intijftg  the  Eng- 
vision  over  the 
Rajah  or  native 

most  perfect  in 
I  it  moves  like  a 
edge  its  infinite 
is  overwhelmed 
machinery.  In 
anting  every  de- 


LEAVING  INDIA. 


259 


partment  of  administration,  the  government  providing  every- 
thing to  the  people— judiciary,  water  sui)ply,  irrigation, 
telegraphs,  roads,  medical  attendance,  police  — everything. 


THE  PARK,  GOVERNMENT  HOUSE,  CALCUTTA. 

Every  fruit  tree  is  numbered  and  registered,  so  that  if  a  man 
should  cut  a  branch  off  one,  it  would  be  reported  in  the  sta- 
tion that  a  branch  had  been  cut  from  tree  No.  — ,  and  the 


t; 


SKSissBiassES'-^ajEsta 


"m 


11  if 


ill 


260 


LAPcr.R  outlooks:  ox  missionary  1.1  xns. 


oflfcnder  would  he  traced  to  the  remotest  corner  of  India. 
Every  palm  tree  is  taxed  by  number,  every  man,  woman  and 
child  is  known  and  registered,  and  every  government  official 
is  listed  in  a  published  volume,  and  all  the  steps  of  his  record 
in  the  public  service  are  printed  in  the  public  register. 
So  exact  and  inflexible  is  this  system  of  absolute  oversight, 
that  Dr.  Norman  McLeod  said,  when  he  saw  an  official  cutting 
a  number  in  the  bark  of  a  tree  :  "o  India,  the  very  hairs 
of  thy  head  are  all  nimibered  ! " 

There  are  splendid  government  roads  in  all  directions, 
and  at  most  towns  public  houses  of  entertainment  provided 
by  the  government.  And  yet  this  immense  system  of  admin- 
istration is  carried  on  at  one  twenty-fourth  what  it  costs  per 
head  to  govern  France,  one-twelfth  that  of  England,  and  one- 
sixth  that  of  Russia.  It  is  difficult  for  corruption  to  get  in, 
for  every  part  is  so  arranged  as  to  be  a  check  on  every  other 
part,  and  nothing  can  escape  detection.  The  public  officers 
are  paid  large  salaries,  and  are  expected  to  be  men  of  the 
highest  capacity,  and  after  twenty-five  years'  service  are  pen- 
sioned on  an  ample  allowance.  We  have  seen  or  heard  of 
nothing  that  compares  with  the  thoroug^ness  of  the  admin- 
istration of  this  great  Empire  of  more  people  than  Cyrus  or 
Cajsar  ever  ruled.  God  Himself  has  arranged  it  as  a  frame- 
work and  preparation  for  the  preaching  of  the  Gospel  in  every 
part  of  this  land. 

The  people  of  India  speak  about  fourteen  regular  lan- 
guages in  the  various  districts,  and  about  half  as  many  ab- 
original dialects.     The  regular  languages  are  Urdu  or  Hin- 


iji-    uiiMJwiiwmijsiiBiaMwiBmiH 


\ 


r.ANDS. 


/ r.u/xc  fxnrA. 


261 


1*116 !•  of  India. 
11,  woman  and 
•nmont  official 
s  of  his  record 
il)li{;  register, 
lute  oversight, 
official  cutting 
the  very  hail's 

all  directions, 
nient  provided 
teni  of  admin- 
lat  it  costs  per 
;land,  and  one- 
)tion  to  get  in, 
311  every  other 
public  officers 
be  men  of  the 
tirvice  are  pen- 
en  or  heard  of 
of  the  admin- 
than  Cyrus  or 
[  it  as  a  frame- 
rospel in  every 

n  regular  lan- 
f  as  many  ab- 
Urdu  or  Hin- 


i^it^^i^iiii^ijmt'miamKmiA^.iih-n 


dustani,  Hintli,  Bengali.  Nciiaiili,  I  rya,  Maratlii,  'I'diigu, 
Guzerati,  Punjaubi,  Sindi,  'raniil.  Malayalliii,  ('anarese  and 
Singalt>se. 

About  one-fourth  of  the  pcopU'  are  farmers.     Many  more 
are  simply  laborers,  and  a  good  many  have  various  trades 
It  is  interesting  to  see  them  in  the  bazaars  working  at  their 
trades— in  brass,  blather,  weaving,  etc. 

The  chief  product  of  India  is  cotton.  Tben  <H)mes  opium, 
we  are  sorry  to  say,  and  then  various  grains.  It  is  a  great 
wheat  and  rice  country,  but  the  other  grains  are  far  more 
numerous  than  in  our  Western  land.  Among  tbe  most  com- 
mon grains  are  doll  and  jewaree  which  form  much  of  the  food 
of  the  people. 

The  most  touching  thing  that  we  have  seen  in  India  is 
the  ])()verty  of  the  people.  The  average  income  of  every  per- 
son in  England  "is  over  -*l'0()  a  year;  in  America  over  -^lOo  ; 
in  India  $10.  Millions  of  the  people  never  get  mo  e  than  one 
meal  a  day.  Ten  cents  a  day  ic  ;^ood  wages  for  a  man,  and 
five  cents  for  a  woman.  You  can  see  thousaiu.  f  women 
carrying  brick  and  mortar  for  the  builders,  or  breaking  stones 
on  the  streets  or  roads  for  five  cents  a  day,  all  the  year  round. 
Their  lowest  stamped  coin  is  the  sixth  part  of  a  cent,  but  in 
the  bazaars  they  use  shells  to  represent  a  still  lower  coin, 
ecjual  to  less  than  the  fiftieth  part  of  a  ctMit. 

There  are  some  clauses  for  their  jjoverty,  which  might  be 
prevented.  They  waste  a  great  deal  in  their  idolatrous  festi- 
vals, and  they  sink  a  great  deal  in  jewels  and  gold.  There  is 
aio  gold  coin  in  India,  for  all  the  gold  is  immediately  turned 


262 


L.IRCRR  Orr LOOK'S  O.y  MrSSlOX.iRY  LANDS. 


into  jewels.  There  are  more  goldsmiths  than  blacksmiths  in 
India,  and  nearly  all  the  wealth  of  the  p(>oplo  is  carried  ou 
their  persons  in  precious  gems.  Perhaps  the  chief  cause  of 
their  poverty  is  their  ignorance  of  skilled  labor.  The  best 
carpenters  in  the  country  are  Chinese,  they  g(!t  four  or  five 
times  the  wages  of  a  Hindu  Coolie.     One  of  the  best  things 

our  Missions  can  t(>ach 
their  converts  is  skill 
in  industrial  work. 

The  seasons  in  In- 
dia are  three.  There 
is,  first,  the  cool  sea- 
son, lasting  from  Nov- 
ember to  March,  when 
the  climate  is  very 
pleasant,  at  times 
cold,  and  the  cold,  es- 
pecially at  night,  is 
more  penetrating  than 
in  America.  We  have 
actually  suffered  in 
Egypt  and  India,  from 
piercing  cold,  when 
we  had  to  have  an  um- 
brella over  us  to  pro- 
tect our  head  from  the 
fiery  sun,  and  yet  our 
A  HINDU  RELIGIOUS  BEGOAR.  ^ody  aud     fect  wero 


HNMWMa 


/..t.WDS. 

blacksmiths  in 
0  is  carried  on 
chief  cause  of 
jor.  The  best 
j(>t  four  or  five 
he  best  things 
sions  can  teach 
)nvert8  is  skill 
strial  work. 
i  seasons  in  In- 
three.  There 
,  the  cool  sea- 
ting from  Nov- 
o  March,  when 
iniate  is  very 
t,  at  times 
id  the  cold,  es- 
'  at  niglit,  is 
nietrating  than 
irica.  We  have 
f  suffered  in 
md  India,  from 
;  cold,  when 
to  have  an  um- 
WGV  us  to  pro- 
•  head  from  the 
m,  and  yet  our 
nd     feet  were 


/./■:. n'/\(:  /a/'/./. 


263 


Jiching  with  cold,  even  un<U'r  tho  weight  of  a  fnr  ovtucoat. 
We  have  often  lain  down  at  night  in  ii  train  to  sleep,  perspir- 
ing with  heat,  and  awakened  at  three  o'clock  so  cold  that  all 
the  mg8  wo  could  put  over  us  would  not  keep  us  warm. 

The  next  is  the  hot  season.  It  lasts  through  part  of 
March  and  all  Ai)ril  and  May,  and  sometimes  till  the  middle 
of  June  ;  and  tlien  it  is  hot  sometimes  l-'5  in  the  shade,  hot 
both  day  and  night,  so  hot  that  even  the  breeze  i3  lik(!  a 
breath  of  fire. 

Then  comes  the  wet  season.     1 1  lasts  from  the  middle  of 
Juno  until  September.     It  is  lalled  the  time  of  the  Monsoons. 
And  then  it  does  rain.     On  the  mountains  the  lainfall  often 
reached  four  hundred  inches,  jui  average  of  three  or  four 
inches  a  day.     <  hi  the  plains  it  is  about  thirty  to  forty  inches. 
This  is  not  an  uni)leasant  season,  although  it  is  somewhat 
feverish.     Then  the  land  grows  rich  and  luxuriant.     After  the 
rains,  the  cool  season  (-omes  again  for,  at  least,  six  months. 
Upon  the  whole,  India  is  not  an  unhealthy  climate  or  a 
very  trying  one.     The  hot  season  is  very  hard  to  endure,  but 
it  is  not  very  long,  and  there  are  mountain  stations  near  al- 
most all  parts  of  India,  where  its  severity  can  be  broken  for 
a  time.     There  is  no  extreme  heat  ui.on  the  hills  of  India. 
Such  places  as  Darjeeling,  Ooteeannmd,  Mahabelasbur  and 
Simla  are  a  paradise  all  summer,  and  are  «.nly  trying  in  the 
rainy  season. 

The  life  of  the  Europeans  in  India  is  adapted  to  the  cli- 
mate. They  wear  light  Hannel  or  linen  clothing,  and  have 
houses  especially  constructed  for  the  country.     Theii'  meals 


ii 


n 


364 


I.ATfar.R  OITLOOKS  OS  MISSIOXARY   fAXD^^. 


ar«  adjiistiHl  so  jiH  t(»  k«'i>])  them  indoors  in  I  lie  lioat  of  tho 
diiy.  Thti  niorninj^  begins  about  <•  o* clock  with  a  single  cup 
of  tea  and  a  slice  of  toast,  which  they  call  *'  Chota  hazry  "  or 
•'  little  breakfast.  '  Then  they  work  till  breakfast  time.  This 
is  the  best  |)ait  of  the  day. 

Tile  Publico  S(!hools  begin  at  <i  o'clock  and  close  at  noon. 
In  I'oona  w«!  prc'ached  to  tluf  Sabbath  morning  congi(>gation 
at  7.;'t»  A.  M.  Then  comes  breakfast,  usually  about  10  to  1 1 
o'clock,  compelling  people  to  stop  and  rest.  After  breakfast 
the  time  is  spent  indoors  for  several  hoius.  The  midday  sun 
is  very  hot  and  dangerous.  Dinner  usually  closes  the  time 
of  rest,  at,  i)erhaps,  4  o'clock,  and  then  the  cool  evening  is 
free.  With  others  there  is  a  Titlin  or  lunch  at  2,  and  then 
after  an  hour's  re.st  an  evening  of  work  till  7.150,  when  dinner 
closes  the  day. 

The  natives  take  their  principal  meal  «•(  I  night.  Many  of 
them  work  all  day  on  an  empty  stomach,  chewing  the  betel 
leaf,  or  a  little  pai-ched  grain,  and  coming  home  at  night  to 
])repare  a  little  curry  and  rice,  or,  if  too  poor  for  ritie,  some 
cheai)er  grain,  and  then  go  on  with  nothing  else  till  tho  next 
night. 

Their  homes  are  very  poor.  We  were  in  a  good  many 
of  them.  They  are  built  of  clay  or  mats.  There  is  one  room 
-  soriieiimes  an  extra  one  for  cooking.  There  are  often  no 
windows.  The  fire  is  kindled  of  dried  manure  in  a  little  open 
space  in  the  corner,  and  the  smoke  disappears  somewhere  as 
best  it  can.  They  all  lie  on  the  floor.  Their  beds  are  carried 
with  them.  They  are  mats  and  cheap  rugs.  They  all  lie 
down  togetner  on  the  floor,  wrapjied  up  in  their  luigs. 


JjJ.flM,i!IBUII,'JlllUW>J)l^,illUji.tt!R-W 


' .  f  \'A<?. 


I  i.avim:  i\n/.i. 


265 


le  heat  of  tho 

1  a  8ingl(!  cup 
lotJi  hiiziy  "  or 
'uat  timo.  This 

closo  at  noon. 
J  congicgatiou 
ivbout  10  to  11 
.ftor  breakfast 
ho  midday  sun 
loses  the  time 
ool  evening  is 
at  '2,  and  then 
),  when  dinner 

gilt.  Many  of 
wing  the  betel 
le  at  night  to 
for  ri<!e,  some 
ie  till  the  next 

a  good  many 
(re  is  one  room 
3  are  often  no 
in  a  little  open 
somewhere  as 
eds  are  carried 
They  all  lie 
ir  i-ugs. 


Tlieir  dress  is  very  simple.  The  lab(»ring  men  have  sim- 
l)ly  a  pretty  full  doth  wrapped  several  times  around  tlu^  loins. 
Tlie  poor  women  and  girls  wear  little  more.  In  Central  and 
.Northern  India  they  have  a  i)iece  of  bright  clolh  about  si.v 
yards  long,  and  they  wind  it  several  times  gracefully  around 
the  body  and  carry  it  ov«;r 
one  side  of  ihe  head,  but  in 
Madras  the  ])easant  women 
have  nothing  over  their 
shouliUns. 

Tiie  children  are  almost 
always  beautiful  ;  but  after 
twenty-five  years  of  ago  they 
look  worn.  Early  marriage 
lias  been  a  physical  and  social 
curse  to  India.  We  noticed 
the  ditTerence  among  the  na- 
tive Christians  at  Lucknow. 
The  girls  kept  their  beauty, 
and  brighter  faces  you  could 
not  see  than  the  young  ladi(^s 
of  eighteen  to  twenty-four  in 
the  girls'  school. 

But  the  girls  of  heathen  India  ai'O  almost  all  wives  at 
twelve  years  of  age.  A  young  lady  you  never  see.  Even  the 
little  girls  you  meet  on  the  street  are  nearly  all  married  to 
somebody,  and  20,ooo,0(io  of  them  are  child  widows— t)ie 
saddest  lot  in  the  world. 


CASTE  HINDU  WOMAN. 


(,r    — 


'H  i, 


266 


LARGER   OrTLOOKS  OiV  ^flSSrONARV  LANDS. 


All  that  India  needs  to  lift  her  dear  ])eople  out  of  their 
depression  and  degradation  is  Christianity. 

The  heathenism  and  idolatry  of  India  is  most  depress- 
ing. It  has  nothing  attrac- 
tive about  it.  The  temples 
have  some  architectual  gran  • 
deur,  but,  inside,  everything 
is  repulsive?.  The  gods  are  all 
objects  of  fear  rather  than 
love.  The  object  of  worship 
is  to  keep  them  from  doing 
the  people  liarm.  Tliink  of 
a  smallpox  god,  and  a  cholera 
god,  that  have  to  be  propiti- 
ated and  appeased.  The  idea 
of  divine  love  is  unknown. 

We  saw  a  good  many 
temple  worshippers,  but  they 
all  depressed  and  oppressed  us 
with  the  foolishness,  and  emp- 
tiness of  the  performance. 
The  worshipper  would  go  in 
and  ring  a  bell  to  wake  up  the 
god,  and  then  walk  seven 
times  around  the  hideous  image  and  pass  on.  The  priests 
are  a  revolting  looking  lot  of  rascals,  more  intent  on  getting 
money  than  anything  else.  Some  of  the  exercises  are  very 
filthy.     At  one    of  the  great   feasts  they   sprinkle  manuro 


A  HINDU  IDOL. 


9Mii>4',, 


LANDS. 

lie  out  of  their 

most  depress- 
othing  attrac- 

The  temples 
litectual  gran- 
ie,  everything 
'he  gods  are  all 
•  rather  than 
ect  of  worship 
111  fi'om  doing 
•m.     Think  of 

I,  and  a  cholera 
!  to  b«^  jjropiti- 
sed.  The  idea 
8  unknown. 

a  good  many 
ipers,  but  they 
id  oppressed  us 
uiess,  andenip- 
performance. 
r  would  go  in 
to  wake  up  the 
I    walk    seven 

II.  Tilt?  priests 
ent  ou  getting 
rcises  are  very 
rinkle  manure 


I.E.  wise  ixniA. 


267 


over  the  crowd,  and  every  one  is  eager  to  get  under  the  filthy 
shower.  At  Benares  we  saw  cows  living  in  the  temples  and 
turning  the  house  of  the  gods  into  a  beastly  and  filthy  stable. 
On  the  Ganges  many  corpses  were  lying  with  theii-  feet 
in  the  sacred  river,  and  priests  were  vaking  the  half-burned 
bodies  of  the  dead  into  the  sacred  stream  where  others  were 
bathing  in  holy  ecstasy.  There  is  a  filthy  god  to  whom  mothers 
often  devote  their  baby  girls,  in  return  for  some  great  favor, 
and  the  service  of  this  god  is  a  life  of  promiscuous  shame 
for  this  poor  child,  in  which  even  she  has  no  right  of  choice, 
but  is  the  common  property  of  the  abominable  temple  and 
all  its  worshi])pers. 

Little  children  are  brought  up  from  their  infancy  in  hor- 
rible familiarity  with  all  kinds  of  evil.  There  is  no  privacy  in 
the  home  and  no  reserve  in  the  talk  of  the  family.  The  little 
ears  and  eyes  are  i)olluted  before  they  know  the  difference 
between  right  and  wrong.  Unnatural  crimes  and  vices  are 
not  uncommon,  and  men  are  often  lower  than  the  beasts. 

And  yet,  upon  the  whole,  the  Hindus  are  a  far  more 
promising  race  than  we  expected  to  find  It  is  a  wonder  that 
heathenism  has  not  left  a  deeper  blight.  Even  the  present 
generation  is  a  thousand  times  worth  saving.  They  are  a 
civilized  people.  They  are  an  affectionate  people.  They  are 
a  bright,  intelligent  people.  They  are  our  own  race  and  have 
our  own  features  and  hearts.  They  make  beautiful  Chris- 
tians. They  are  Christ's  peoplt?  for  whom  He  died.  0,  let  us 
go  to  save  them  ! 

But  we  must  pass  from   the  country  to  its  Missions. 


268  J.ARCIIR  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


What  has  been  done  to  evangelize  India?  In  ITOO,  mission- 
ary work  was  begun  in  the  Madras  Presidency  by  Schwartz 
and  others,  and  in  isiio,  Carey  went  to  Serampoor,  near  Cal- 
cutta. The  evangelization  of  Western  India  b(^gan  in  LSI;?. 
To  day  there  are  nearly  one  hundred  missionary  societies 
laboring  in  India  with  seven  hundred  male  missionaries  and 
over  twelve  hundred  foreigJi  laborers  altogether,  counting 
botli  men  and  women.  The  Bible  is  circulated  in  all  the  lan- 
guages of  India,  and  the  missionaries  have  ])enetrated  every 
province  except  Nepaul  and  Bhotan  in  the  extreme  north. 
In  nearly  all  th(!  leading  cities  missionaries  aie  ])laced,  and 
there  arc,  ])rol)ably,  half  a  million  communicants  in  the  vari- 
ous Missions,  and,  perhaps,  two  million  native  adherents  al- 
together. 

It  would  have  been  a  great  pleasure  to  visit  all  these  Mis- 
sions, but  it  would  have  taken  a  year  to  do  so.  As  it  was,  we 
visited  a  few  of  those  that  God  has  most  signally  blessed  in 
recent  years.  We  saw  a  good  deal  of  the  Methodist  and  Bap- 
tist work,  and  something  of  the  American  Board  and  Pres- 
byterian Missions.  We  met,  ])ersonally,  more  than  one  hun- 
dred of  the  missionaries  of  other  societies  than  our  own,  and 
we  made  very  careful  incjuiry  respecting  many  that  we  could 
not  visit,  and  we  are  glad  to  say  that  we  have  a  very  high 
opinion  of  the  missionaries  and  the  mission  work  of  India, 
upon  the  whole.  When  we  think  how  very  little  has  been 
done  by  the  churches  at  home,  we  can  only  wonder  that  God 
lias  made  so  very  nmch  out  of  it  already  for  India. 

There  are  two  sides  to  the  missionary  enterprise.     One  is 


LANDS. 

ItOO,  rnission- 
y  by  Schwartz 
poor,  near  Cal- 
l)('gan  in  1S1,'5. 
)nary  societios 
ssionarios  and 
thcM',   counting 

in  all  the  lan- 
netrated  every 
xtrenie  north, 
ire  ])laced,  and 
its  in  the  varf- 
I  adherents  al- 

it  all  these  Mis- 

As  it  was,  we 

ally  blessed  in 

lodist  and  Bap- 

)ard  and  Pres- 

than  one  hun- 

our  own,  and 

■  that  wo  could 

^^e  a  very  high 

k'ork  of  India, 

ittle  has  been 

>nder  that  God 

idia. 

ri)rise.     One  is 


/./-:.  1 17\('  /.\7)/.i. 


269 


the  home  side  and  the  other  is  the  foi-eign  ;  and  we  must  say 
--as  representing  the  fonner,--that  it  is  very  far  Ixihind  the 
other.     We  have  not  sent  our  missionaries  to  India  to  teach 
the  other  workers,  far  less  to  criticize  them,  but  to  help  them, 
to  supplement  them,  and  to  vie  with  them  in  holy  service. 
It  is  true  there  are  two  classes  among  the  missionaries  of 
India,  as  there  are  tvt-o  kinds  of  Christians  at  home,  and  the 
proceedings  of  the  late  Conference  have  given  much  cause  for 
regret  that  there  was  not  a  bolder  and  more  evangelical  tes- 
timony.    But  we  are  glad  that  we  have  met  the  other  typo  of 
men  and  women,  and  there  are  enough  of  them  to  bring  a 
great  blessing  to  India,  and  to  encourage  the  church  at  home 
to  uphold  their  hands  and  reinforce  their  numbers  as  never 

before. 

But  after  all  that  has  been  done  in  and  for  India,  the  fact 
remains  that  there  is  still  only  one  foreign  laborer,  including 
both  men  and  women,  to  300,000  people  ;  and  while  the  great 
cities  are,  in  a  measure,  occupied,  yet  there  are  immense 
spaces  between  them,  extending  sometimes  to  even  hundreds 
of  miles,  where  there  are  no  laborers.  We  can  count  thou- 
sands of  towns  and  tens  of  thousands  of  villages  where  the 
Gospel  has  never  been  preached. 

Besides,  very  much  of  the  work  of  the  other  Societies  in 
India  is  either  educational  or  the  raising  up  and  training  of 
native  evangelists.  Most  of  the  American  missionaries  in 
nearly  all  of  the  fields  we  visited  are  simply  superintendents 
of  work.  They  expect  the  natives  to  do  the  evangelistic  work 
and  to  go  out  as  pioneers  and  jn-eachers.     This  is,  no  doubt, 


fn 


!,    H 


270 


LARGER  our  LOOKS  ON  MfSSION/tRV  LANDS. 


an  excellent  plan— if  only  we  had  native  preachers  enough. 
But  there  are  no  more  to  be  had,  and  unless  we  send  out 
men  and  women  from  America  to  do  this  work  of  evangeliz- 
ing, it  will  not  be  done. 

In  this  respect  our  missionaries  are  undertaking  0.  work 
that  is  but  little  done  by  foreigners  in  India,  and  a  work  in 
which  there  is  room  for  thousands  more,  the  work  of  preach- 
ing the  Gospel  to  the  present  generation  before  it  shall  have 
passed  away. 

We  have  taken  pains  to  collect  exact  information  respect- 
ing the  unoccupied  fields  of  India,  and  we  believe  that  wc 
shall  find  that  more  than  half  the  population  of  the  land  is 
yet  beyond  the  reach  of  the  Gospel. 

But  much  of  our  interest  in  India  must,  of  course,  be  in 
our  own  missionary  work.  W  ha,  e  already  spoken  very  fully 
of  it,  and  it  is  only  necessary  for  us  to  sum  up  a  few  general 
conclusions. 

1,  God  has  given  us,  in  India,  the  most  open  field  in  the 
world.  It  is  a  civilized  country  under  an  excellent  govern- 
ment, with  railroads  and  highway  leading  in  every  direction, 
perfect  security  for  life  and  property,  and  enough  English- 
speaking  people  to  open  our  way  to  every  place  in  the  land. 

2.  It  is  the  most  economical  field  in  the  world.  The  pur- 
chasing power  of  money  is  three  or  four  times  as  great  as  in 
most  other  countries,  and  our  missionaries  can  be  sustained 
on  less  than  one  half  what  it  must  cost  in  Japan,  South 
America  and  other  fields,  and,  we  believe,  much  less  than  even 
in  China  and  Africa. 


S^ea^^^^^^^^^^ww^^^^ 


LANDS. 


LEAVING  INDIA. 


271 


icheis  enough. 
IS  we  send  out 
c  of  evangeliz- 

taking  0  work 
and  a  work  in 
'^ork  of  preach- 
3  it  shall  have 

nation  respect- 
elieve  that  wc 
of  the  land  is 

)f  course,  be  in 

>ken  very  fully 

a  few  general 

ten  field  in  the 
lellent  govern- 
jvery  direction, 
ough  English- 
)  in  the  land. 
3rld.     The  pur- 

as  great  as  in 
n  be  sustained 

Japan,  South 
\  less  than  even 


3.  Its  languages  have  been  thoroughly  acquired,  and  an 
amj)lo  Christian  literature  can  be  obtained  and  distributed  in 
all  of  them,  at  a  low  price. 

4.  God  lias  given  us  an  adroirable  field  for  our  work. 
The  great  province  of  Berar  lies  all  along  one  of  the  leading 
railways  of  India,  is  easily  rearbod  from  Bombay,  has  but  one 
language,  and  is  left  for  us,  unoccupied  by  other  Societies — a 
precious  inheritance  of  faith  and  service. 

5.  The  field  has  been  long  prepared.  For  twenty  years 
faithful  pioneers  have  been  going  over  it  preaching,  praying 
and  preparing  for  the  harvest,  and  winning  for  oin*  workei-s 
in  the  leading  towns  a  kindly  welcome  and  an  open  door. 

6.  God  has  given  us  an  invaluable  Superintendent,  a  man 
of  God,  who  thoroughly  understands  the  field  and  has 
labored  in  it  for  ten  years,  who  is  in  perfect  sympathy  with 
aU  the  principles  of  our  work,  who  stands  in  the  kindest 
relationship  with  other  Societies  and  missionaries,  who  has 
the  confidence  and  love  of  our  missionaries,  and  who  has, 
also,  an  intelligent  and  large-hearted  view  of  the  whole 
neighboring  field,  and  is  able  to  give  a  most  necessary  and 
valuable  ojiprsight  of  all  our  work  in  India. 

v.  And  God  has  given  us  as  the  nucleus  of  our  future 
vfork  a  most  blessed  band  of  missionaries,  men  and  women 
of  entire  consecration,  zeal,  faith  and  power  in  the  Holy 
Ghost,  and  whose  spirit  of  unity  and  devotion  must  exercise 
a  great  and  permanent  influence  on  all  others  who  may 
join  them,  and  upon  all  other  missionaries  who  come  in  con- 
tact with  them. 


i--^s^-L '  "*£ ^^^~K.e^iJi.^'^%1■;:;i(i,,^i^^^|^^:^^ 


_L. 


(';•,!  M 


f 


272        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSLONARY  LANDS. 

What  are  some  of  the  results  that  we  trust  havf5  hoeii 
gained  for  our  work  hy  these  five  weeks  in  India  ? 

1.  We  liave  gained  a  conception  and  realization  of  the 
field,  the  woik  and  its  needs,  which  nothing  else  (;ould  give, 
and  we  trust  to  be  able  to  reproduce  it  upon  the  minds  and 
hearts  of  our  ])eople  at  home. 

2.  We  have  found  room  to  place  in  India  as  many  more 
missionaries  as  we  can  wish  to  send  for  the  next  two  or 
three  years,  at  least. 

3.  We  have  been  able  to  settle  nmtually  and  in  perfect 
harmony  the  methods  and  principles  of  the  work  with  re- 
.-pect  to  all  the  unsettled  points,  relating  to  the  distribution 
of  the  workers,  the  erecting  of  new  buildings,  and  the  re- 
ception and  training  of  the  missionaries  in  the  field. 

4.  Our  missionaries  on  the  field  have  received  a  mighty 
inspiration  for  their  work,  in  the  blessed  Convention  we  have 
been  able  to  hold  together. 

5.  We  have  learned  very  much  of  the  best  methods  and 
results  of  mission  work  by  our  visits  to  the  other  Missions. 

G.  Our  work  has  been  brought  into  very  blessed  relation 
and  the  most  affectionate  fellowship  with  all  the  ^  ighboring 
Missions  and  with  some  of  the  best  Missions  in  other  parts  of 

India. 

Y.  Through  Mr.  Fuller's  visits  along  with  us,  he  and  our 
missionaries  in  India  have  come  into  touch  with  several  other 
Missions  among  the  most  advanced  and  successful  in  India, 
and  the  relationship  thus  formed  will  be  of  the  greatest  value 
to  our  work  in  India,  and,  we  trust,  not  without  correspond- 
ing blessing  to  these  Societies  and  workers. 


\ 


'  LANDS. 

rust  liave  Iw'eii 
(lia  ? 

ilizution  of  tlie 
E?lso  could  give, 
the  minds  and 

as  many  more 
le  next  two  or 

'  and  in  perfect 
work  with  ra- 
the distribution, 
gs,  and  the  re- 
i  field. 

■civcd  a  mighty 
rention  wo  have- 

(st  methods  and 
;her  Missions, 
blessed  relation 
the  m  ighboring 
n  other  parts  of 

us,  he  and  our 
ith  several  other 
:essful  in  India, 
e  greatest  value 
out  correspond- 


LEAVING  INDIA. 


273 


8.  We  trust  that  our  simple  messages  to  the  native  Chris- 
tians, the  heathen,  the  various  theological  si  uools  addressed, 
and  the  companies  of  missionaries  we  have  met,  have  not 
been  without  fruit,  and  we  have  nuicli  cause  to  believe  tiiat 
many  have  been  stimulated  to  holier,  stronger  service  for 
Christ  and  India. 

9.  Besides  our  work  in  Berar,  God  has  shown  us,  we  be- 
lieve, some  new  fields  for  the  extension  of  our  work  in  Cen- 
tral and  Western  India,  where  hundreds  of  laboiers,  starting 
from  our  common  centre,  can  occupy  new  and  unoccupied 
ground  in  two  new  languages  for  Christ. 

10.  And  more  precious,  perliaps,  than  any  other  purpose 
that  He  has  been  pleased  to  lay  upoii  our  heart.  Ho  has,  we 
believe,  shown  us  a  door  to  Thibet,  for  the  evangelization  of 
which  our  Alliance  was  originally  formed.  So  that  if  we 
had  seen  nothing  else  come  out  of  our  long  journey,  we  have 
been  amply  repaid  for  the  17,000  miles  of  travel  we  have 
already  had  over  land  and  sea,  by  the  blessed  results  which 
we  trust  are  to  come  for  dear  India. 

And  now,  India,  dear  old  India,  for  the  present — fare 
well.  Thou  art  ever  lying  a  living  picture,  with  thy  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  of  Christless  villages,  upon  our  heart. 
God  engrave  thee  upon  the  heart  of  His  dear  people,  and  some 
day  lot  us  see  thee  covered  with  the  light  and  glory  of  the 
Gospel,  and  crowned  with  the  harvests,  whose  early  seeds  we 
have  humbly  helped  to  sow  ! 


XVI. 


CALCUTTA  TO  BURMAH. 


IT  WOULD  not  have  been  for  our  highest  good  if  we  had 
been  permitted  to  leave  India,  after  five  weeks  of  unin- 
terrupted blessing,  without  some  trial  of  our  faith  and 
patience.    And  so,  when  we  reached  Calcutta,  and  prepared 
to  embark  for  Burmah,  we  found  that  our  trunk,  and  also  a 
valuable  parcel,  which  we  had  left  to  be  shipped  at  Bombay 
so  as  to  meet  us  in  Calcutta,  were  not  to  be  found.    On  mak- 
ing inquiry  we  found  that  they  had  been  shipped  from  Bom- 
bay by  a  freight  train  and  might  not  arrive  for  a  week  or  two. 
This  was  somewhat  serious,  as  we  were  now  on  our  way, 
"by  rapid  stages,  by  a  number  of  different  steamship  lines,  and 
it  would  be  hard  for  our  baggage  to  overtake  us.     But  we  felt 
that  it  was,  doubtless,  one  of  our  Father's  ways  of  proving 
His  all-sufficient  grace  to  us,  and  giving  us  some  new  testi- 
mony for  Him.     And  so  we  drove  to  the  freight  office  and 
asked  the  company  to  telegraph  for  it,  and  have  it  sent  on  by 
a  passenger  train  if  it  could  be  found,  and  forwarded  after  us 
by  the  next  steamer  to  Rangoon  in  the  hope  that  it  would 
overtake  us  during  the  four  days  we  were  to  wait  there. 
And  so  we  went  to  the  bazaars  and  got  a  few  necessary  arti- 
cles of  apparel,  and  went  on,  minus  our  baggage. 

374 


J— 


CALCUTTA  TO  BURMAH. 


275 


st  good  if  we  hact 
re  weeks  of  iinin- 

of  our  faith  aud 
itta,  and  prepared 
trunk,  and  also  a 
lipped  at  Bombay 

found.  On  mak- 
lipped  from  Bom- 
for  a  week  or  two. 
}  now  on  our  way, 
oamship  lines,  and 
:e  us.  But  we  felt 
3  ways  of  proving 
18  some  new  testi- 
freight  office  and 

have  it  sent  on  by 
forwarded  after  us 
ope  that  it  would 
Bre  to  wait  there, 
few  necessary  arti- 
iggage. 


The  next  steamer  came  in  while  we  were  waiting  at  Ran- 
goon, but  our  things  wore  not  on  board,  but  a  dispatch  came 
instead,  telling  us  that  they  would  be  on  the  next  boat,  nearly 
a  week  later,  and  would  be  sent  on  to  Singapore.  It  seems 
l)robable  that  we  shall  have  to  leave  Singai)ore  before  that 
steamer  can  arrive,  and  so  the  ])rosent  prospects  are  that  we 
may  not  receive  our  trunk  before  we  reach  Hong  Kong  or 
Shanghai,  nearly  a  month  hence. 

But,  with  perhaps  a  little  lonely  feeling,  we  just  trusted 
our  Father  again  with  it  all,  and  felt  that  He  would  take  care 
of  it.  And  as  we  told  the  little  story  of  our  trial  and  our 
Master's  grace  for  it,  wo  found  that  it  did  the  missionaries 
more  good  than  anything  else  we  said  ;  for  it  is  in  just  these 
little  things  that  our  faith  and  love  and  joy  break  down. 
And  we  are  glad  to  be  permitted  to  triumph  even  in  this.  It 
may  seem  a  small  thing  at  home  to  lose  a  trunk,  but  15,000 
miles  away  it  is  like  the  loss  of  a  companion  ;  and,  besides,  it 
is  not  always  easy,  in  these  circumstances,  to  get  the  things 
you  need  in  native  bazaars.  But  the  dear  Lord  has  arranged 
everything,  and  in  due  time  we  shall,  doubtless,  meet  our  old 
companion,  and,  no  doubt,  get  many  blessings  out  of  it  all. 

Our  reason  for  taking  the  route  from  Calcutta  to  Singa- 
pore was  that  we  might  have  the  opportunity  of  visiting  Bur- 
mah,  and  seeing  a  little  of  the  wonderful  work  which  God 
has  wrought  among  the  people  of  that  land  through  the 
American  Baptist  Mission. 

We  took  passage  on  the  "Pentakota,"  of  the  British 
India  Steamship  line.     We  had  a  nice  and  a  good  captain, 


376      LAPcnn  outlooks  o.v MfssroN a /.n-  /..txns. 

but  some  very  frivolous  passengers  on  board,  like  too  many 
of  tbo  English  and  Americans  that  wo  meet  abroad.  Tho 
only  themes  of  conversation  were  races,  dances,  dresses,  and 
lotteries  ;  and  we  felt  more  truly  alone  than  among  the 
heathen.  Our  Sabbath  was  si>ent  lying  at  anchor  at  the 
mouth  of  the  Hooghly  Kiver,  waiting  for  the  tide  to  take  us 
over  the  dangerous  sands,  but  there  was  no  reUgious  service 
or  recognition  of  God,  and  we  found  our  way  to  the  "little 
sanctuary"  which  He  has  promised  to  be  to  us  in  far-off 
lands,  and  there  we  met  with  Him  and  the  divir  ones  at 
home,  and  had  ..  peaceful  and  blessed  day. 

The  navigation  of  this  river  is  very  dangerous.  There 
is  an  immense  amount  of  sand  carried  down  the  stream,  and 
bars  and  quicksands  are  always  forming,  so  that  pilots  have 
to  be  most  careful  in  entering  and  leaving  tho  port  of  Cal- 
cutta There  is  one  point  where  vessels  have  been  known  to 
strike  the  bar,  and  then  be  swept  over  by  the  strong  current, 
and  Pink  in  the  quicksands,  disappearing  utterly  m  a  few 

minutes.  ,       .      .,        au 

We  got  safely  out  to  sea,  and  after  two  days  sail  on  the 
Ba>  of  Bengal,  which  was  smooth  and  pleasant,  ^^e  cast 
anchor  iu  the  mouth  of  the  Irrawaddy,  and  again  waited  for 
the  tide  to  take  us  up  to  Rangoon.  This  was  also  providen- 
tially arranged,  and  on  AVednesday  morning,  a  little  after  sun- 
rise, we  sailed  up  to  the  landing  jetty  of  the  capital  of  Bur- 

The  view  of  Rangoon  from  the  river  is  very  attractive.  A 
good  deal  of  luxuriant  foliage  and  many  fine  buildings  line 


)■  L.'ixns. 


CALCUTTA   TO  nrRMAIt. 


277 


il,  liko  too  many 
ut't  ahrojul.  The 
ices,  dresses,  and 

than  among  the 
at  anchor  at  the 
le  tide  to  take  us 
►  religious  service 
way  to  the  "Uttlo 
J  to  us  in  far-off 

the  dear  ones  at 

hvngerous.  There 
n  the  stream,  and 
a  that  pilots  have 
;  the  port  of  Cal- 
Lve  been  known  to 
;he  strong  current, 
;  utterly  in  a  few 

o  days'  sail  on  the 
pleasant,  "vv^e  cast 
d  again  waited  for 
was  also  providen- 
g,  a  little  after  sun- 
:he  capital  of  Bur- 
very  attractive,  A 
r  fine  buildings  line 


the  river  for  two  or  three  miles,  and,  in  the  backgiound, 
immbers  uf  Burmese  pagodas,  with  that  jjeculiar  and  striking 
form  that  you  see  nowhere  else,  giv»;  the  whole  scene  a  most 
])i(;tures(iuu  appearance.  Kangoon  is  a  largt^  commercial  city 
of  over  It »i»,()00  inhabitants,  and  is  full  of  Fnglish  merchants 
and  stores,  and  has  a  more  English  appearance  than  any 


RANQOON. 


other  city  we  have  seen  in  the  East.  The  streets  are  very 
wide,  the  buildings  large  and  far  apart,  and  there  is  an  ai)i)ear- 
iince  of  great  spaciousness  and  considerable  style. 

Burmah  is  now  a  province  of  the  Indian  Empire-,  and  has 
a  population  of  about  eight  millions,  including  I' pper  Bur- 
mah and  the  other  dependencies.  Our  readers  will  i-emem- 
ber  that  a  few  years  ago  the  ruler  of  Upper  Burm.ih,  old 


278 


r .1RGF.K  OCTLOOKS  OX  MfSSrOXAKY  LANDS. 


Thebau,  hccatim  ho  outrageous  that  England  sent  an  army, 
captun'tl  Mandalay,  hist  cai»ital,  and  annexed  liis  territory. 
He  is  now  a  royal  prisoner  in  Katnagary,  a  British  tort  south 
of  Bombay.  Ho  was  a  modern  Herod,  and  when  he  came  to 
the  throne  he  killed  all  his  relatives.  They  tell  strange  stories 
of  his  brutality.  His  wife,  however,  seems  to  have  been  the 
nding  spirit,  and  the  Jezebel  and  instigator  of  his  crimes. 
They  tell  a  grim  story  of  her  :  that  while  she  was  confined 
—a  state  i)risoner  in  Madras,  a  nunvber  of  people  wont  to 
see  her,  as  a  public  curiosity.  Among  them  were  some  ladies 
who  laughed  very  heartily  at  some  things  she  said  and  did. 
This  so  annoyed  her  Majesty  that  she  siunmoned  the  oflicer 
of  the  prison,  and  said  very  excitedly  to  him  :  "Take  those 
women  out  and  cut  their  heads  ott'."  This  was,  evidently, 
her  old  way  of  settling  annoying  people,  and  she  could  not 
see  why  the  English  authorities  should  object  to  it. 

Burmah  is  a  rich  countiy,  and  is  (piite  distinct  frotn  India 
in  many  of  its  features.  It  is,  largely,  a  rice  producing 
country.  They  call  the  raw  grain  "  paddy,"  and  tb.wi  hie 
delta  of  the  Irrawaddy  is  one  immense  "paddy  iicld."  In 
the  wet  season  the  whoU-  land  is  flooded,  and  the  people 
travel  about  on  elevated  roads,  which  are  built  about  four 
feet  above  the  ground.  As  soon  as  the  ground  is  wet  enough, 
they  turn  in  with  their  buff  aloes  and  rude  plows,  and  work  up 
the  mud.  about  three  feet  deei),  and  ihey  then  j)lant  the  rice 
in  these  mud  fields,  and  the  water  remains  till  it  ripens,  and 
then  dries  up  and  allows  them  'o  harvest  it.  Wo  went  out 
into  the  country  and  saw  these  paddy  fields.     It  was  the  dry 


y  f.ANDS. 

soiit  Jill  army, 
d  bin  U'lritory. 
ritisli  fort  Houtli 
i^lu'U  ho  camo  to 
II  strange  stories 

0  havo  been  the 
r  of  his  crimes, 
le  was  conflned 

people  went  to 
kvere  some  ladies 
le  said  and  did. 
oned  the  officer 
:     "Take  those 

1  was,  evidently, 
d  she  could  not 
t  to  it. 

itinct  from  India 
rico  producing 
"  and  th(-  whole 
»addy  ueld."  In 
and  the  people 
built  about  four 
id  is  wet  enough, 
iws,  and  work  up 
lMi  plant  the  rico 
ill  it  ripens,  and 
■,.  W«?  went  out 
It  was  the  dry 


cAi.crrrA  rn  m  rmaii. 


279 


Btmson  and  the  rico  had  all  been  harvested,  and  the  land  was 
one  plain  of  cracked  and  dusty  clay.  The  houses  are  all 
built  on  posts  about  foui-  feet  above  the  ground,  so  as  to 
escape  the  inundation. 

Burmah  is,  nlso,  a  groat  timber  country,  and  the  teak 
tree  grows  here  in  its  perfection.     It  is  a  most  valuable  and 


ELEPHANTS  MOVING  LUMBeR  IN  BURMAH. 

beautiful  wood,  hard  and  enduring  as  oak,  and  coloring  fine- 
ly to  the  tint  of  black  walnut.  We  have  never  seen  prettier 
wood  carvings  than  the  natural  teak  wood  after  it  has  sea- 
soned They  do  not  even  oil  it,  but  it  grows  nearly  as  black 
as  ebony  and  it  lasts  for  centuries.  The  inside  woodwork  of 
their  houses  is  very  pretty  in  simple  teak  wood.     The  trees 


lii 


lUm 


Ji   ''i^ 


280 


LARGER  OrTLOOk'S  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


of  Burmah  are  much  larger  than  in  India,  and  the  vegetation 
looks  more  luxuriant.  The  rai)is  come  a  month  earlier,  and 
the  liot  season  is  sliorter  and  more  moderate. 

As  we  sailed  up  the  river,  the  native  boats  were  very- 
pretty.  They  have  a  very  picturesque  shape,  with  a  high, 
])ointed  prow,  like  the  point  of  a  Turkish  slipper,  and  the 
stern  is  round 
and  nicely 
carved.  T  li  e 
hoats  are  about 
the  shape  of  a 
mason's  trow- 
el, with  the 
point  raised 
very  high. 
The  boatman 
stands  and 
rows  hy  push- 
ing his  oars 
and  propelling 
the  boat  in 
front  of  him. 

We  found  ourselves  at  once  among  a  new  race.  These 
were  not  Hindu  faces.  They  are  much  I'ounder  and  flatter, 
and  have  a  distinct  Mongolian  touch.  Many  of  them  are 
quito  •^ood-looking.  They  are  much  better  dressed  than  the 
HinduSo  The  men  and  women  dress  very  much  alike.  There 
is  a  very  bright  and  pi-etty  skirt,  usually  of  brilliant  checked 


A  BURMESE  BOAT. 


LANDS. 


CALCUTTA   TO  PARMAH. 


281 


the  vegetation 
til  earlier,  and 

its  were  very 
,  with  a  high, 
pper,  and  the 


r  race.  These 
ler  and  flatter, 
f  of  them  are 
essed  than  the 
1  alike.  There 
■illiant  checked 


or  tartan  cloth  or  silk,  tied  around  tlu^  waist  and  reaching  to 
the  feet,  and,  over  this,  a  jacket,  usually  white ;  the  head 
dress  is  a  pretty  hand  of  pink  or  scarlet  tied  around  the  brow 
and  hanging  loosely  behind.  Their  dress  is  quite  picturesque, 
and     at     least     decent,   winch 

people  have  a  Hh^B^^HI^I  W^^^^\  inde- 
pendent and  ^^H|P^|3|^|^B  ^^^P^^'^^^^'  ^^'^^' 
There        none      ^^^^pi^^B^HH|     <>f  the  appear- 

pov-      HHB^^^^^^l     ^^'^^'   ^^"^^ 
caste  here,  and      |^^i^^fl^^B|     ""    lower  o  r- 

more'  money     HH^^H^^H     ^^^^'^'  "'^'^^^^  ^^'^ 

or  three  other  H^B^^BI^^^H  ^^^^'^  "^  ^^^^' 
m  a  h  —  t  h  e     Hf^^^^^^^^^H     ^^^'^"^'     ^  ^^  ^ 

eral  others,  H^^PJH^M^^B  who  are  abo- 
riginal people,  *  ^"■'""^^  '^°^-  somewhat  like 
our  Indians,  and  like  the  hill  tribes  of  India,  and  on  these  the 
Burmans  look  down,  and  formerly  i)ersecuted  them.  The 
Karens  number  over  half  a  million,  and  the  other  tribes  about 
half  as  many.     It  is  among  these  aboriginal  tribes,  as  we 


&,,-.^- 


— ^■1 


BBH 


LARGER   OVTI.OOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

shall  immediately  see,  that  the  Gospel  has  achieved  its  grand- 
est triumphs. 

'rhe  Burmese  are  Buddhists.  At  once  one  is  impressed 
with  the  entirely  different  character  of  their  religious  woi- 
ship  and  buildings.  Here  you  see  none  of  the  hideous  and 
disgusting 
found  in 
temple,  but 
there  is  but 
peated  in  ten 
forms  and 
marble,  a  la- 
brass  and 
ways  the 
harmless, 
tured,  rather 
little  like  a 
who  is  won- 
er  she  is  a  girl 
It  is  old  Gua 
Burman  Bud- 
has  no   other 

tion  ho  certainly  is  decent  and  harmless,  a  great  improve- 
ment  on  the  l)estial  and  devilish  forms  of  the  Hindu  temples. 
Everywhere  he  is  enshrined  in  fine  pagodas,  and  both  he 
and  the  pagodas  worshipped  devoutly.  These  pagodas  are 
not  temples,  but  monuments  and  shrines  to  Guatama.  An 
image  of  him  is  at  the  base  of  each  pagoda  ;  indeed,  usually  a 


A  BURMESE  WOMAN. 


idols  to  be 
every  Hindu 
every  where 
one  face  re 
thousand 
place  s  -i  n 
baster,  wood, 
gold,  but  al- 
same  quiet, 
g  o  o  d  -  n  a- 
insipid  face,  a 
dreamy  girl 
deringwheth- 
or  a  woman, 
tarn  a,  the 
dim,  and  if  he 
recommenda- 


•-•''*4si 


hXDS. 

id  its  grand- 

s  impressed 
'ligious  wor- 
hideous  and 
lols    to    be 
vevy    Hindu 
very  where 
ne    face    re 
h  o  u  8  a  11  d 
lace  s— in 
aster,  wood, 
old,   but  al- 
amo quiet, 
;  o  o  d  -  n  a- 
asipid  face,  a 
reamy   g  i  i'  1 
eringwheth- 
r  a  woman, 
a  ma,      the 
[ha,  and  if  he 
ecommenda- 
;at  impx'ove- 
ndu  temples, 
and  both  he 
pagodas  am 
latama.    An 
)ed,  usually  a 


■f 


f*}|!M^SSi«g^fe¥SS*^WKieg»S«ii«SS»t^^!«»a»^'-i^^ 


t.jSt/fegg^vrgin^l^ya'; 


CALCUTTA  TO  BURMAH. 


283 


DISTANT  VIEW  OF  SHWEE-DA-OONE  PAGODA. 

great  number  of  images.  Some  of  them  are  of  immense  size 
and  finely  carved.  The  pagodas  are  often  very  fine.  The 
great  one  near  Rangoon  known  as  Shwee-da-gone,  is  over 
three  hundred  ^'eet  high,  and  jnore  than  one  hundred  feet  in 
diameter  at  the  base.     Tlie  sbape  would  be  very  hard  to 


"''''wwi!^aSjM!teHMt^"'^*^^'^y^^sa^8^^'SBg^^ss^at^fa;<ja-g^^ 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MfSSfOA'.IRV  LAXDS. 

describe.  It  must  be  seen.  It  is  a  good  deal  like  a  bell  with 
the  handle  running  up  to  a  fine  ornamental  point.  The  top 
is  an  umbrella  of  fine  gold,  and  often  set  with  the  most 
])rei;ious  stones.  This  inunense  pagoda  stands  on  a  high  hill 
approached  by  splendid  stei)s  and  colonnades,  and  containing 
an  immense  enclosure,  at  least  one  thousand  feet  square.  In 
the  centre  stands  the  Great  Pagoda,  and,  in  the  S])ace,  innu- 
merable other  artistic  figures,  columns,  pagodas,  idol  houses 
with  ])icturesque  roofs  and  turrets,  and  the  finest  carving  m 
wood,  brass,  stone  and  stucco  work. 

The  place  was  thronged  with  priests  with  their  shaved 
heads  and  rather  handsome  flowing  robes  of  jmre  yellow. 
Each  priest  was  followed  hy  a  crowd  of  boys  carrying  his 
offerings  and  parcels.  This  is  regarded  by  the  boys  as  a 
meritorious  work  and  will  bnng  them  a  great  reward  in  the 
future  life.  Everything  in  the  Buddhist  system  is  merit. 
Whatever  good  thing  we  do  goes  to  the  account  of  merit,  and 
will  count  so  much  in  our  favor  in  the  next  stage  of  our  ex- 
istence. 

And  what  is  this  next  stage  ?  It  is  transmigration.  It 
is  to  be  born  in  the  form  of  some  beast  or  bird,  through  age 
after  age,  until  at  least  we  come  to  the  Buddhist's  heaven — 
Nirvana,  which  just  seems  to  mean— annihilation.  So  that 
the  brightest  hope  of  the  future,  and  the  best  thing  our  works 
of  merit  can  bring  us,  is  to  come  back  next  time  in  some 
higher  animal  form,  some  more  fortunate  crow,  or  snake,  or 
beetle,  or,  perhaps,  some  sacred  brute,  like  a  monkey,  or  a 
cow.  Well,  God  have  mercy  on  their  poor,  blind  hearts  !  Is 
it  not  heart-breaking  ? 


?*'»•» .  JOj^  ^^X-  1  <~  -i^BWJigK?* 


IDS. 

a,  boll  with 
;.  The  top 
the  most 
a  high  hill 
containing 
(juare.  In 
I)aco,  innu- 
dol  houses 
carving  m 


leir  shaved 
ire  yellow, 
irrying  his 

boys  as  a 
'ard  in  the 
1  is  merit. 

merit,  and 
of  our  ex- 


;ration.  It 
1  rough  age 
's  heaven — 
1.  So  that 
;  our  works 
10  in  some 
)r  snake,  or 
)nkey,  or  a 
hearts  !    Is 


SgpS^^pHS^p-       JP 


CALCrTTA  TO  inh'.^f.ur. 


28  T 


Theso  pagcclas  are  being  ronstantly  (lecoratiHl  uiul  v- 
gilck.l  by  nu'U  Nvbo  gladly  give  tbeir  gol.l  and  tbeir  tnue  to 
tbis  work,  in  tbo  liopo  of  laying  up  a  littlo  stock  of  merit. 
Truly  the  god  of  tbin  world  is  leading  men  captive  at  bia  will, 
and  making  fools  of  tbose  who  wen^  created  in  tbe  image  of 
God      Tbe  disbonestyof  the  whole  system  is  glaring.     On 
account  of  their  idea  that  every  animal  is  just  tbe  incarna- 
tion of  some  man  that  once  lived,  they  do  not  believe  in  kiU- 
in«'  animals.     And  yet  they  get  round  it  very  comfortably. 
They  let  some  one  else  kill  it,  and  they  buy  it  and  eat  it. 
Or  they  say  they  simply  took  the  fish  out  of  tbe  water  and 
it  died  -they  did  not  kill  it ;  but  they  do  not  hesitate  to  eat  it. 
The  idea  lying  back  of  Buddhism  is  self-denial;  but,  practi- 
cally their  priests  are  said  to  be  notoriously  immoral,  and 
they  have  some  specious  way  of  excusing  everything  by  some 

evasion  or  subtility. 

There  is  another  race  in  Burmah,  whom  we  expect  soon 
to  meet  in  their  own  land,  but  already  they  have  made  them- 
selves felt  in  Burmah.     They  are  the  Chinese.    Next  to  the 
English  they  are  the  most  wealthy  and  prosperous  people  m 
Rangoon.     Some  of  them  are  quite  rich.     Wherever  he  goes 
in  Southeastern  Asia  the  Chinaman  leads  the  native.     He  has 
elements  of  character-mechanical  skill,  business  enterprise, 
persistence,  thriftiness  and  endurance,  which  make  him  easily 
master  in  the  race  with  the  Malay,  the  Burman  and  the 
Hindu     They  are  the  greatest  of  the  Asiatic  races.     God 
help  us  to  give  them  the  Gospel !    We  were  glad  to  hear  of 
several  Chinese  Christians  even  in  Burmah. 


286        LARGER  OI'T/.OOKS  O.V  AffSS/OXARy  /..I.VDS. 

t 

But  wo  liavo  said  enough  about  the  land  and  the  people. 
C)ur  Kpocial  object  was  to  see  the  work  of  God  amongst  them. 

Jt  is  just  eighty  years  since  Adoniram  Judson  entered 
Rangoon  as  the  fust  missionary  of  the  American  Baptist  Mis- 
sionary Union,  Six  years  later,  the  first  Burmese  convert 
was  baptf.^ed.  Twenty  years  later  the  Scriptures  were  trans- 
lated into  Burmese  by  Mr.  Judson,  and,  a  few  years  later,  the 
Karen  Bible  was  also  finished.  To-day  the  Baptist  Missions 
contain  a  native  community  of  over  seventy  thousand,  and 
more  than  :  hirty  thousand  actual  communicants.  There  are 
no  less  than  five  hundred  Karen  churches.  Many,  indeed 
most  of  these,  are  already  self-supporting ;  and,  besides  sus- 
taining their  own  pastors,  these  churches  have  formed  a 
Home  Missionary  Society,  and  are  sustaining  Missions  and 
evangelists  among  the  destitute  villages  of  their  own  people. 
They  have  always  been  more  ready  than  the  Burmese  to  re- 
ceive the  Gospel,  and,  in  some  respects,  have  made  greater 
progress  in  Christianity  than  any  other  people  among  whom 
the  Gospel  has  been  preached  in  modern  times. 

These  Karens  are,  apparently,  an  exotic  race.  They 
speak  an  entirely  different  language  from  the  Burmese,  and 
are  a  distinct  people.  They  live  in  their  own  villages  and 
often  move  in  whole  villages,  especially  when  pressed  or  per- 
secuted by  their  Burmese  neighbors.  In  some  respects  they 
are  like  our  American  Indians,  and  in  many,  like  the  hill 
tribes  of  India.  They  have  some  strange  traditions,  among 
others  an  account  of  the  Creation,  and  the  temptation  of  our 
first  parents,  almost  identical  with  the  Bible  narrative.     They 


ir 


■■^fec- 


LVDS. 

the  people, 
ongst  them. 
Ison  entered 
Baptist  Mis- 
loso  convert 
I  were  ti-ans- 
irs  later,  the 
ist  Missions 
ousand,  and 
There  are 
any,  indeed 
besides  sus- 
e  formed  a 
fissions  and 
own  people, 
•mese  to  re- 
lade  greater 
Tiong  whom 

race.  They 
urmese,  and 
villages  and 
jssed  or  per- 
Jspects  they 
ike  the  hill 
ions,  among 
ation  of  our 
tive.     They 


z 

* 

m 

5 


> 

o 
o 

D 


CALCUTTA   TO  BUR M AH. 


287 


have,  evidently,  touched  tlu*  Jewish  people  at  some  point  in 
their  history.  They  liad,  also,  a  tradition  that  some  day- 
teachers  were  !<'  come  to  them  from  the  West,  and  so,  when 
the  missionaries  canu)  to  them  from  Western  lands,  many  ac- 
cepted the  Gospel,  and  whole  villages,  in  many  instances, 
embraced  Christianity. 

It  was  a  great  pleasun^  to  be  permitted  to  visit  this  inter- 
esting Mission.  More  tlsa;.  one  Imndred  American  Mission- 
aries, including  ladies,  mc  i.itoring  in  Burmah,  and  over  two 
hundred  native  preachers.  We  si)ent  nearly  five  days  among 
them,  and  had  the  privilege  of  meeting  no  less  than  thirty- 
seven  of  the  American  Baptist  missionaries,  besides  a  number 
of  workers  in  other  Societies,  and  a  few  of  the  native  preach- 
ers. We  were  invited  to  address  a  number  of  meetings 
among  the  missionaries,  and  found  a  deep  spiritual  hunger 
and  an  earnest  longing  for  more  of  that  blessing  which  God 
is  pouring  out  upon  the  Telugu  Mission  through  the  Holy 

Ghost. 

We  could  not  have  been  more  cordially  received  by  our 
own  workers  than  we  were  by  these  dear  friends.  Several  of 
them  we  had  known  in  America,  and  there  were  not  a  few 
whom  God  has  been  calling  for  a  good  while  very  near  to 
Himself,  and  fitting  by  a  special  anointing  for  great  useful- 
ness. We  were  the  guest  of  Prof.  Gilmore,  son  of  a  very 
dear  friend  in  the  ministry  in  the  United  States  ;  and  he  and 
bis  beloved  wife  and  baby  made  our  stay  a  real  taste  of  home. 
A  number  of  the  workers  came  in  from  Maulmain,  Bassein 
and  other  points.     The  season  was  a  little  unfavorable,  being 


1""^ 
'% 

u 


m 


ags'-'fej^^jfe'^-j^!^'-''''''**''''* 


288       LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

the  vacation  time  in  all  the  schools  ;  but  we  saw  most  of  tho 
teachers  and  school  premises,  and  got  a  very  good  conception 
of  this  part  of  the  work. 

Our  most  interesting  experience,  and  one   which  our 
friends  planned  for  us  with  special  thoughtf ulness,  was  a  visit 

to  a  Karen  village  in  the 
country.  Riding  out  by  train 
to  the  station  of  Mhawbee, 
v.'e  were  met  by  the  Karens 
with  their  carts,  and  driven 
across  the  paddy  fields  to 
their  villages  in  the  jungle, 
where  we  spent  a  day  and  a 
night,  and  saw  them  in  all  the 
simplicity  of  their  native 
home. 

The  good  pastor  gave  up 
his  house  to  us,  and  wo  just 
took  possession,  bringing  our 
own  provisions  and  cook,  and 
making  ourselves  at  home. 
Every  missionary  in  India, 
who  travels  in  the  jungle  and 
goes  out  itinerating,  has  a  serv^ant  who  is  accustomed  to  this 
sort  of  cooking.  And  you  would  have  been  surprised  at  the 
nice  dinner  and  breakfast  our  "boy"  gave  us.  G  e  one  of 
these  natives  a  little  rice,  a  chicken  and  a  few  spl^e/.,..a,nd  it 
is  amazing  how  many  dishes  he  will  \  o  you. 


KAREN  GIRLS. 


■ 


.AMDS. 


CALCUTTA  TO  BURMAH. 


289 


w  most  of  the 
3od  conceptioa 

lie  which  our 
ess,  was  a  visit 
k^illage  ill  the 
3g  out  by  train 

of  Mhawbee, 
by  the  Karens 
;s,  and  driven 
,ddy  fields  to 
in  the  jungle, 
nt  a  day  and  a 
them  in  all  the 

their    native 

lastor  gave  up 
s,  and  wo  just 
1,  bringing  our 
,  and  cook,  and 
Ives  at  home, 
lary  in  India, 
the  jungle  and 
istomed  to  this 
urprised  at  the 
s.  G  e  one  of 
^  splv.e:f.,..a,ndit 
ou. 


After  breakfast  we  were  met  in  the  chapel  where  the 
people  had  assembled  to  greet  us.  There  was  a  congregation 
of  over  seventy,  notwithstanding  the  short  notice.  We,  of 
course,  were  invited  to  preach  to  them,  and  we  did,  the  best 
we  could,  through  a  native  interpreter.  We  have  found  that 
the  only  way  to  reach  these  people  is  to  give  them  simple 
illustrations.  They  hstened  .ery  attentively,  and  when  we 
.  ,ot  through,  they  came  up,  one  by  one,  and  began  to  respond. 
One  after  another  they  would  squat  down,  Indian  fashion,  in 
front  of  us,  and  looking  up  into  our  face  like  very  children 
would  talk  out  all  that  was  in  their  heart. 

Oue  of  their  preachers  made  quite  a  speech,  asking  us  to 
thank  the  American  Christians  for  sending  them  the  Gospel, 
and  saying  how  poor  and  weak  they  yet  were  as  Christians, 
and  not  able  to  understand  all  the  deep  things  of  God.  This 
was  one  of  his  simple  illustrations  :  "One  hen,"  he  said, 
"can  cover  ten  chickens  with  her  wings,  but  ten  chickens 
cannot  cover  as  much  as  one  hen.  We  are  the  ten  chickens,, 
the  American  Church  is  the  hen."  Several  of  them  brought 
us  money,  but,  of  com  .%  we  handed  it  over,  with  a  little 
added  to  it,  as  a  contribution  towards  the  new  chapel  they 
are  about  to  erect. 

After  the  meeting  wo  had  some  hours  of  leisure,  and 
walked  through  their  jungle  and  a  neighboring  village. 

The  men  and  women  all  smoke,  and  we  got  some  of  the 
girls  to  f  sent  us  two  or  three  of  their  cigars  as  specimens. 
They  ^.i  made  of  corn  husks,  very  thick  and  large,  and 
many  of  them  a  fo-'HUong.    What  would  you  think  of  your 


290       LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS, 

young  lady  friend  taking  from  her  mouth  something  like  a 
small  stick  of  timber,  and  then  deliberately  sending  in  your 
face  an  immense  cloud  of  tobacco  smoke  ?  Well,  at  least  they 
are  consistent  in  letting  the  women  smoke,  for  if  it  is  good 
for  the  one  sex  it  is  surely  as  good  for  the  other.  They  only 
laughed  merrily  when  some  of  us  attempted  to  raise  the  ques- 
tion of  the  right  and  wrong  of  smoking.  They  had  not  got 
this  far  yet. 

Later,  we  visited  the  neighboring  Burman  village.  It 
was  a  long,  winding  "^treet,  with  houses  on  both  sides,  and 
about  three  dogs  to  a  house  ;  and  as  we  passed  along,  these 
wolfish-looking  dogs  watched  their  chance,  on  each  side,  to 
dash  at  us  with  a  yell  and  a  snap,  and  only  the  vigorous  use 
of  some  stout  bamboo  rods  kept  us  from  their  teet^.  In  pro- 
portion to  the  density  of  its  heathenism,  we  found,  is  the 
number,  the  meanness  and  the  manginess  of  tb«  dogs  a 
Burman  village  possesses. 

The  native  pastor  of  the  Karen  village  went  with  us 
around  the  country  villages.  We  found  him  a  very  remark- 
able man.  He  is  the  pastor  of  a  church  of  three  hundred 
members  in  this  and  several  other  Karen  villages  in  the  vicin- 
ity. During  the  past  year  he  has  baptized  one  hui  ired  and 
twenty  persons,  and  is  to  baptize  thirty  more  next  Sabbath 
evening.  The  American  missionary  who  superintends  the 
Karen  work  in  the  Rangoon  District  was  along  with  us,  but 
he  has  one  hundred  churches  and  six  thousand  members  to 
oversee,  and  he  can  only  give  a  general  supervision,  and  has 
to  trust  all  the  details  to  these  men.     Such  native  pastors  are 


'  LANDS. 

totnething  like  a 
sending  in  your 
/"ell,  at  least  they 
for  if  it  is  good 
ther.  They  only 
to  raise  the  ques- 
hey  had  not  got 

man  village.  It 
both  sides,  and 
ssed  along,  these 
on  each  side,  to 
the  vigorous  use 
r  teef^.  In  pro- 
ive  found,  is  the 
s  of  tb"  dogs  a 

e  went  with  us 
J  a  very  I'eniark- 
»f  three  hundred 
iges  in  the  vicin- 
me  hui  ired  and 
re  next  Sabbath 
mperintends  the 
mg  with  us,  but 
md  members  to 
jrvision,  and  has 
ative  pastors  are 


CALCUTTA   TO  BUR M AH. 


291 


of  great  value,  and  they  have  been  the  chief  instruments  in 
the, great  work  which  God  has  done  among  the  Karens. 

We  slept  that  night  in  the  jungle,  and  heard  the  "tok- 
ter"  calling  near  our  bed  through  the  night,  with  his  loud 
call,  "  tok-ter."    He  is  a  great  lizard,  morq  than  a  foot  long, 
with  a  voice  louder  than  that  of  a  frog.    But  we  let  him  call, 
for  they  told  us  he  kept  away  the  snakes,  and  there  are  some 
of  them  in  Burmah's  jungles.     But  we  slept  in  peace,  and 
awoke  in  safety,  to  find  men  and  women,  indiscriminately, 
walking  in  and  out  of  our  room  in  perfect  innocence  of  the 
fact  that  we  had  to  make  our  toilet.     We  looked  out  on  the 
village  street,  and  the  men  and  women,   indiscriminately, 
were  taking  their  morning  bath.    They  did  it  in  the  most  in- 
genious way.    A  woman  would  take  a  pail  of  water  from  the 
well,  and  with  her  thin  fold  of  cotton  around  her,  would  pom* 
i^  ovp>^  her  head,  again  and  again,  and  then  she  would  dex- 
tvii.     \j  slip  a  dry  robe  over  her  head,  and  let  the  old  wet 
one  drop  off,  under  the  other,  and  she  was  dressed  for  the 
day— no  need  of  towels  or  looking-glass.    And  another  would 
come  along  and  take  n  similar  douche,  and  the  dirty  water 
would  iust  soak  down  and  back  into  the  well  again,  and  the 
dear  pe.  pie  would  draw  it  up  in  buckets  and  drink  it ;  as  in- 
nocent, as  a  babe  just  born,  of  all  our  modern  notions  about 
sewers  and  filters  and  civilized  sensitiveness. 

The  good  native  pastor  could  not  understand  <  n<'  use  of 
the  filter  we  brought  with  us.  He  thought  it  was  it  of 
drinking  cup.  We  found  one  very  pure  and  rein -,hing 
drinking  cup  about  which  we  need  have  no  qualms.    It  was 


393         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LAND^ 

the  great  bunch  of  cocoanuts  the  good  people  brough'j  us, 
just  ready  to  pour  out  their  crystal  draught  of  aci^-ulous 
water.  Upon  the  whole  we  greatly  enjoyed  our  Karen  visit, 
and  felt  we  had  a  glimpse  of  primitive  life  that  few  visitors 
to  Burmah  or  India  ever  get.  Above  all,  we  saw,  with  all  its 
simplicity  and  crudeness,  what  God  is  able  to  do  for  heathen 
souls,  and  in  it  we  beheld  the  promise  of  the  harvest  which 
is  surely  coming  to  our  own  field.  Judson  labored  six  years 
in  Burmah  before  he  saw  the  first  convert,  and,  to-day,  there 
are  tens  of  thousands.    Praise  the  Lord  for  what  we  yet  hope 

to  see  ! 

On  our  return  to  Rangoon,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meet- 
ing, at  lunch,  the  president  of  the  Karen  Theological  Semi- 
nary, and  also  his  excellent  and  accomphshed  wife.  He  told 
us  that  ho  had  one  hundred  students  in  training  for  the  min- 
istry, and  a  graduating  class  of  nearly  twenty.  This  is  the 
best  hope  of  the  Karen  churches. 

We  also  visited  the  yet  unfinished  Memorial  Hall,  which 
the  Karens  are  erecting  at  their  own  expense,  as  a  monument 
of  God's  goodness  to  their  people.  It  is  one  story  high,  as 
yet,  and  covers  a  large  area,  and  when  completed  will  be  one 
of  the  most  striking  missionary  buildings  in  the  world. 
Their  means  are  hmited,  but  their  hearts  are  large,  and,  we 
trust,  they  mry  soon  be  able  to  complete  this  most  interest- 
ing memorial. 

Many  American  friends  will  be  glad  to  know  that  God  is 
greatly  blessing  and  using  our  dear  sisters.  Miss  Ranney  and 
Miss  Phinney,   whom  many  of  our  people  will  remember 


^'^u^i^: 


.ANDS. 


CALCUTTA   TO  BVRMAH. 


293 


I  brought  us. 
of  aciaulous 
r  Karon  visit, 
it  few  visitors 
w,  with  all  its 
lo  for  heathen 
liar  vest  which 
ored  six  years 
,  to-day,  there 
it  we  yet  hope 

asure  of  meet- 
lological  Semi- 
.vife.  He  told 
g  for  the  min- 
yT.    This  is  the 

al  Hall,  which 
s  a  monument 
story  high,  as 
ted  will  be  one 
in  the  world, 
large,  and,  we 
most  interest- 


meeting  at  Round  Lake  and  the  New  York '  Tabernacle, 
besides  many  others  whom  we  should  be  glad  to  name  if  it 
were  proper. 

But  we  must  leave  Rangoon  and  Burmah.  God  bless 
this  land  and  this  .vork  !  Here,  too,  wo  have  placed  "  the 
sole  of  our  foot,"  and  c'iaimed  it  for  Christ  and  His  coming. 

Our  Baptist  friends  have  nobly  pieempted  it  and  very 
fairiy  occupied  it.  At  least,  we  believe  that  ere  long  they 
will  occupy  the  entire  field,  and  it  would  seem  to  be  a  pity  to 
divide  the  thougJit  of  these  simple  people,  who  know  nothing 
of  sectarianism,  by  sending  any  rival  churcli  there.  But 
there  is  need,  even  iu  Burmah,  for  one  hundred  more  mis- 
sionaries. May  God  r.;)eedily  send  them  from  the  Baptist 
churches  of  America  to  ihe  unoccupied  villages  of  Burmah  ! 

It  was  very  hot  in  Burmah  -a  real  taste  of  tropical  sum- 
mer. And  it  was  a  relief  to  stand  onco  more  on  tlie  cool  deck 
of  the  "Pentakota"  r.nd  cai!  down  the  coast  of  Arracan  in 
tlie  face  of  the  old  Southern  Cross,  and  toward  the  shores  of 
Sumatra  and  Singapore. 


3W  that  God  is 
ss  Ranney  and 
vill  remember 


■iKm9m!(^ifitji^^yn^!SmimuiKidKm 


XVII. 


AMONG  THE  MALAYS. 


i 


r.  YC  THING  could  have  been  more  delightful,  so  far  as 
'^  physicTil  conditions  are  concerned,  than  the  sail  down 
th  .'  Bay  of  Bengal,  from  Rangoon  to  Singapore.  It 
occupied  seven  days,  and  followed  the  coast  of  Burmah, 
Tanasserim  and  the  Peninsula  of  Malacca.  The  weather 
was  extremely  pleasant,  with  a  hot  sun,  but  a  delightful 
breeze  night  and  day.  We  had  few  passengers  and  plenty 
of  v  om,  and  lived  on  deck  both  night  and  day,  only  going 
down  to  the  cabin  long  enough  to  take  our  meals.  At  night 
the  steward  made  our  beds  on  deck  and  we  slept  in  the  cool 
breezes  until  he  brought  us  our  "  chotahazry,"  or  cup  of  tea, 
at  G  A.  M.,  and  awoke  us  for  our  salu  water  bath  and  simple 

toilet. 

We  were  able  to  do  unbounded  literary  work  through 
the  long  hours  of  the  breezy  day,  and  to  conic  somewhat  near 
overtaking  an  enormous  mass  of  accumulated  correspond- 
ence and  other  writing.  It  certainly  was  not  a  pleasure  sail, 
although  a  very  pleasant  one,  and,  like  all  our  other  days 
abroad,  we  asked  the  Lord  to  let  these  days,  which  He  made 
so  calm  and  still,  count  the  very  utmost  for  His  work  and 
kingdom. 


\. 


AMONC  THE  M.U.A  VS. 


295 


tful,  so  far  as 
t  the  sail  down 
Singapore.  It 
t  of  Burmah, 

The  weather 
t  a  delightful 
5rs  and  plenty 
ly,  only  going 
als.  At  night 
ipt  in  the  cool 

or  cup  of  tea, 
ith  and  simple 

work  through 
omewhat  near 
3d  correspond- 
a  pleasure  sail, 
ur  other  days 
hich  He  made 
His  work  and 


As  we  got  farther  south,  and  nearer  the  equator,  the 
Pole  Star  sank  lower  and  lower,  until  at  last,  a  good  while 
before  we  got  to  Singapore,  it  disappeared  altogether,  and,  at 
the  other  side  of  the  heavens,  the  Southern  Cross  rose  higher 
and  higher  toward  the  zenith  with  a  great  train  of  glorious 
new  constellations  behind  it,  making  the  midnight  sky    a 

galaxy  of  glory.  t     ^     1 

The  climate  underwent  the  most  marked  change.  Instead 
of  the  long  dry  season  of  India,  we  soon  sailed  into  the  zone 
of  showers.  Every  night  the  horizon  would  be  illuminated 
by  brilliant  lightnings,  and  nearly  every  day  there  would  be 
rain,  frequent  and  heavy,  although  short  showers,  much  like 
our  American  summer  thunder  storms.  Along  the  equator  it 
rains  all  the  year  round,  and  the  hottest  day  is  almost  sure 
to  be  cooled  by  a  few  hours  of  moisture.  In  consequence  of 
this  the  vegetation  is  most  luxuriant,  and  every  island  and 
shore  was  wooded  to  the  water's  edge  and  rich  with  glorious 

forests  and  flowers. 

Animal  life,  too,  began  to  grow  exuberant.  Our  cabins 
swarmed  with  red  ants,  and  they  walked  over  us  at  all  hours 
of  the  day  and  night  without  asking  leave  before  they 
lunched  off  us.  Their  bite  is  not  as  bad  as  that  of  the  mosquito, 
but  it  is  not  a  tropical  luxury.  One  morning  we  found  a  colony 
of  them  in  one  of  our  pockets  whei-e  something  edible  had 
attracted  them.  Occasionally,  one  would  hear  a  female 
scream,  and  the  disturbing  cause  would  usually  prove  to  be 
a  great,  and,  perhaps,  hitherto  unknown  species  of  cock- 
roach or  beetle.     Our  good-natured  Scotch  cp.ptain  told  us 


BHiaMuawt'-t 


■■■'ims^s^sm^ii^isiiXiui^mimiiiiii^ 


NEAR  MALACCA. 


that  his  cockroaches  swarmed  Sundays  and  Wednesdays, 
and  then  came  out  of  the  recesses  of  the  sliip  to  exhibit.  We 
are  afraid,  however,  that  ours  did  not  always  keep  regular 
hours. 


'i^ttjjk'-" 


i;'. 


1  Wednesdays, 
o  exhibit.  We 
rs  keep  regular 


,IA/0\('    THE  MALAYS. 


297 


Oil  our  way  down  tlir  l».iy  w«'  jtassed  far  to  the  west  the 
Andaman  Ishiuds,  which  form  the  Penal  Colony  of  India, 
and  where  the  worse  criminals  are  transported  for  life.  The 
natives  of  these  islands  are  said  to  he  the  most  degraded  type 
of  human  beings  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  and  nnich  lower 
i'veii  than  the  aborigines  of  Australia.  We  stopped  a  day 
at  the  Island  of  Penang,  which  is  an  English  Colony  and 
part  of  the  Straits  Settlements.  We  had  time  to  land  at  the 
pretty  city  of  Georgetown  and  send  off  about  fifty  letters 
by  the  India  and  English  mail,  just  leaving.  Then,  in  the 
afterno^n,  we  took  a  jinriksha  and  rode  out  several  mil(^8 
through  avenues  and  forests  of  palms  to  the  B(jtanical  (lar- 
dens  and  the  waterfall  which  comes  down  from  a  mountain 
about  2,500  feet  high.  We  found  ourselves  not  only  in  a 
new-  British  Colony,  but  surrounded  by  new-  laces.  The  Chi- 
nese were  everywhere  and  the  Malays  now  began  to  appear. 

We  will  not  stop  to  speak  of  the  beauty  of  the  ride  or  the 
Gardens,  (>xcept  to  observe  that  it  was  a  scene,  all  the  way, 
of  tropical  luxuriance.  The  grass  grows  here  as,  of  course, 
it  cannot  in  India,  especially  in  the  dry  season  ;  and  the 
ground  was  one  rich  carpet  of  verdure  covered  with  a  luxuri- 
ance of  palms,  banyans,  plantains,  and  many  etpially  beauti- 
ful trees  covered  with  orchids  and  other  parasites  in  profu- 
sion, and,  often,  richest  bloom.  The  Gardens,  with  the  orchida 
and  fern  houses,  must  be  seen  to  be  realized.  Many  beautiful 
islands  surround  Penang,  and  the  city  is  most  picturesque  as 
seen  on  entering  and  leaving. 

We  reached  Singapore  two  days  later,  and  here  found 


\ 


fiimsmmfsmMmm. 


T}u.$SB),^mM*m!»jm--mfAh'^,-^»  ,K- 


KviKmrn- -''•-."fi'r 


J 


298        LARGER  Ol  TLOOKS  OX  MfSSIONARy  LANDS. 


IN  THE  MALAY  ARCHIPELAGO. 

ourselves  in  tli    metropolis  of  English  Malaysia,  and  all  that 
we  could  say  u.   other  poi  its  can  be  still  more  truly  said  of 


LANDS. 


'|;^ 


, 


lia,  and  all  i    at 
re  truly  s;i      of 


Jtm         "^ 


.iMox(.-  ri:i:  .u.i/.ns. 


299 


this.  The  appronch  through  the  "NewHarhor"  is  exceed- 
ingly pretty.  The  straitH  are  (piite  naiiow,  and  many  beauti- 
ful and  tliickly  wooded  islands  dot  the  lovely  harbor,  while 
ships  of  all  nati  .us,  .  iid  war  vessels  hearing  many  different 
'flags,  lie  at  anchor  in  tlu  quiet  waters. 

We  were  met  at  the  wharf  by  our  dear  hrother,  Mr.  Lela- 
cheur,  and  were  glad  to  find  him  looking  exceedingly  well 
after  a  year  of  heavy  pressure  both  in  toil  antl  suffering.  Most 
of  our  readers  know  that,  accompanied  hy  M ' .  Anderson,  he 
came  out  to  Hong  Kong  and  Singapore  f(«  th.  nurpose  of 
finding  an  ni)i)r()ach  to  one  of  the  group  of  islands  in  the 
South  Seas,  vvheri!  God  seemed  to  be  leading  us  to  attempt  to 
plant  a  Mission,  tiie  island  of  Yai»,  th«^  most  western  of  the 
Caroline  Islands. 

After  reaching  Singapore  it  was  found  (hat  Mr.  Ander- 
son had  left  New  York,  without  the  knowledge  of  the  Board, 
in  a  somewhat  advanced  stag*?  of  consiunption.  In  this 
damp  climate  it  developed  very  rapidly,  and  Mr.  Lelacheur 
found  himself  under  the  necessity  of  devoting  nnich  of  his 
time  to  the  care  of  his  suffering  hrothei-,  and  deferring  his 
journey  to  the  Islands  until  this  great  responsibility  should, 
in  some  way,  be  relieved.  Meanwhile,  however,  ho  gave  as 
much  time  as  possible  to  the  study  of  the  Malay  language, 
and  with  so  much  success,  that,  already,  even  at  his  age,  our 
brother  can  speak  it  fairly,  and  has  already  given  some 
,1       J.  :-es  to  the  natives. 

.  few  weeks  ago  Mr.  Anderson's  illness  terminated 
in  hh>  u.;ath,  and  Mr.  Lelacheur  had  the  satisfaction  of  know- 


300 


I. AUGER  OUJ LOOK'S  OX  MfSSIONARY  f.ANDS. 


ing— a  satisfaction  in  which  wo  all  deeply  shar*' -that  noth- 
ing was  n('jj;lerte(l  that  fis  necessary  t<»  the  comfort  of  our 
dear  young  hrother.  During  our  stay  in  Snigapore,  we 
visited  Richaid  Anderson's  grave  in  the  English  cemetery, 
and  took  a  few  leaves  from  thohorder  of  ])retty  flowers  grow- 
ing around  it ;  and  we  gave  orders  for  the  erection  of  a  sim- 
ple stone  to  mark  the  sacred  spot  where  another  precious  life 
is  laid  on  tlie  great  altar  of  Moriah,  as  the  phulge  of  another 
land  for  God,  through  our  dear  Alliance.  Many  such  graves 
are  already  on  the  Congo,  and  many  in  the  dark  Soudan. 
Surely  there  niust  be  a  mighty  harvest  from  such  a  costly 
sowing.  Two  moic  are  on  the  Yang-tse  River  ;  one  lies  in 
loneliness  at  Kobe,  in  Jajjan  ;  one  sleeps  in  btnvutiful  Poona  ; 
one,  beneath  the  ])alms  of  Singapore,  claims  the  Malay 
Peninsula  for  Jesus. 

Dear  young  Richard  Anderson  was  worthy  to  be  a  mis- 
sionary martyr.  He  was  a  bright  and  earnest  young  Scotch- 
Irish  lad,  whose  call  we  remember  v/ell.  He  had  begun  to 
succeed  la  his  httle  business  in  New  York,  when  the  Lord 
came  to  him  and  asked  for  all  his  heart,  and  then  called  him 
to  be  a  missionary.  A  few  of  us  knew  how  much  he  sacri- 
ficed to  be  able  to  affoi  i  to  attend  the  College  ;  and  when  it 
was  found  out  that  he  was  living  in  a  cold  and  cheerless 
room,  and  doing  without  the  necessaries  of  life  that  he  might 
gain  his  object,  it  was  no  longer  allowed,  but  measures 
were  taken  for  his  assistance.  He  gave  a  very  bright,  and, 
indeed,  brilliant  address  at  the  College  Commencement  in 
May,  just  a  year  ago,  and  was   selected   by  the  unanimous 


^ 


AMONG  THE  M     'AYS. 


301 


r  i.ANns. 

are— that  noth- 
comfoit  of  our 
Sinj^apore,  we 
iiglisli  cometory, 
ty  flovvtu-a  grow- 
roction  of  a  sirn- 
her  precious  life 
Itulgo  of  another 
any  such  graves 
10  (lark  Soudan, 
ni  such  a  costly 
vor  ;  (juo  lies  in 
eautiful  Poena  ; 
inis    the    Malay 

•thy  to  ho  a  rais- 
3t  young  Scotch- 
[e  had  hegun  to 
,  wheii  the  Lord 

then  called  him 
'  much  he  sacri- 
ge  ;  and  when  it 
id  and  cheerless 
fe  that  he  might 
d,  but  measures 
'^ery  bright,  and, 
mmencement  in 

the  unanimous 


vote  of  his  fellow  students  for  this  honor.  A  good  deal  was 
expected  from  his  bright,  young  mind,  his  heroic  and  en- 
thusiastic spirit,  his  deep  piety  and  (Consecration,  and  his 
stirring  faith  in  Ood.  But  (Jod  calls  some  to  the  plow  and 
some  to  the  altar.  The  motto  of  the  Knglish  Baptist  Mis- 
sionary Society  is  an  ox  standing  between  an  altar  and  a 
plow,    with   the    words  inscribed    on  a    scroll,  "Ready  for 

either  or  both." 

Before  he  passed  away,  Richard  Anderson  said  to  his 
brother  and  companion  that  ho  believ(ed  that  (Jod  had  re- 
ceived from  his  life  all  the  service  for  which  He  had  called 
him  ;  and,  although  he  could  not  understand  all  His  deahngs 
with  him,  he  could  fully  trust. 

The  only  mistake  he  made,  it  seems  to  us  all,  was  in  not 
frankly  telling  us  his  actual  condition  of  health  before  he  al- 
lowed us  to  send  him  away  to  such  a  cUmate.     Had  we  known 
it  we  should  not  have  sent  him.     Another  case  came  before 
us  at  the  same  time  that  he  was  appointed,— a  lady  who  de- 
sired to  go  to  India  but  was  physically  unfit  to  go.    She 
desired,  however,  to  trust  the  Lord  for  her  healing,  and  she 
was  accepted  on  condition  that  she  should  be  actually  healed, 
and  be  really  in  a  condition  to  go  before  the  time  came.    She 
was  in  a  far  worse  condition  than  our  broOier,  but  she  took 
the  Lord  for  it,  and  months  before  she  needed  to  snil  she  was 
thoroughly  healed,  and  is  now  one  of  our  healthiest,  happiest, 
and  most  promising  missionaries  in  India.    We  trust  that  our 
candidates  will  always  be  perfectly  frank  with  us,  and  enable 
us  to  counsel  and  help  them,  and  avoid  all  needless  risks. 


g'7-ji  i^»'p^-i»*^  --*■.,  5  «.-^4?rtl 


M^.ij'jar.'!.'gr*!?r:Pivyyyw'fyi.k  ■■'jj-u^«ti'(M-"jg<]^'i^*J4'*y.*»H'!ig.'^-'y^' 


i  ii!i 

:!!! 


302        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSLONARY  LAND^ 

We  know  that  Mr.  Anderson  was  perfectly  sincere  and  can 
did  in  his  purpose.  He  really  meant  that,  trustinj^  God  for 
his  healing,  he  should  not  recognize  the  disease  or  symptoms. 
It  is  true  that  we  should  steadily  believe  above  our  symptoms, 
but  it  is  also  true  that  these  symptoms  should  be  actually  re- 
moved before  we  go  to  the  field,  and  will  be  if  we  steadfastly 
trust  God.  Faith  in  God  is  not  only  a  "  make  believe,"  but 
it  also  brings  direct  and  definite  results,  and  if  God  wants  us 
for  a  field  He  will  surely  give  us  the  strength  to  go  in  such  a 
sense  and  measure  as  t(»  satisfy  every  reasonable  inquirer. 

We  spent  three  very  pleasant  days  in  Singapore,  and  saw 
a  good  deal  of  the  city,  the  people,  the  Christian  and  mission- 
ary work  of  the  country  and,  above  all,  the  needs  of  the  field 
and  the  work  to  which  the  Lord  is  calhng  us  theie. 

The  first  day  was  a  Sabbath,  and  we  were  permitted  to 
preach  in  the  Presbyterian  and  Methodist  Episcopal  Chapels, 
and  on  Monday  evening  again  in  the  latter  place.  The  M.  E. 
Church  of  America  has  a  Mission  here,  chiefly  educational 
and  English,  but  with  a  work  among  the  Chinese,  and  a  Pub- 
lishing and  Printing  Department,  which  has  a  Malay  Branch. 
We  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  good  Bishop  Thoburn  here, 
whom  we  had  missed  in  Calcutta.  We  saw  a  good  der.l  of  him, 
and  thanked  God  for  the  wise,  humble  and  thoroughly  earn- 
est, practical  and  capable  man  whom  they  have  in  charge  of 
their  great  work  in  India.  It  is  a  shame  if  such  a  church, 
with  such  a  work  and  such  a  leader,  does  not  back  himself  in 
a  manner  compared  with  which  all  they  are  doing  now  is  but 
as  child's  play. 


tOtm 


lincere  and  cau 
rusting  God  for 
iseor  symptoms. 
3  om*  symptoms, 
d  be  actually  re- 
if  we  steadfastly 
ke  believe,"  but 
if  God  wants  us 
1  to  go  in  such  a 
ible  inquirer, 
gapore,  and  saw 
ian  and  mission- 
leeds  of  the  field 

there. 

ere  permitted  to 
•iscopal  Chapels, 
ace.  The  M.  E. 
efly  educational 
aese,  and  a  Pub- 
a  Malay  Branch, 
p  Thoburn  here, 
;ood  der.l  of  him, 
horoughly  earn- 
ave  in  charge  of 
I  such  a  church, 

back  himself  in 
ioing  now  is  but 


o 
o 


■n 
m 


z 
H 
> 
H 

O 

_z 

S 
> 
r 
> 

-< 

T3 

m 

z 


HJUIJ.U'l'ilU.I'H'  V"g" 


AMONG  THE  MALA  YS. 


303 


We  also  met  about  a  dozen  of  the  missionaries  ^f  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Mission,  and  found  them  all  busy  for 
Christ.    They  have  several  fine  schools,  a  good  English  con- 
gregation, and  an  excellent  work  among  the  Chinese.     The 
brother  in  charge  of  this,  Dr.  Luring,  has  given  much  assist- 
ance to  our  missionaries,  and  is  a  man  of  rare  gifts  and  char- 
acter.    He  is  a  fine  scholar,  knowing  Sanscrit,  Malay,  and 
Chinese,  besides  other  languages,  and  has  the  greatest  sim- 
plicity and  singleness  of  heart.     He  has  already  translated 
some  of  our  Alliance  tracts  into  Malay,  and  thus  enabled  Mr. 
Lelacheur  ^o  preach  to  the  Malays  with  our  literature.    Be- 
sides the  Presbyterian  and  Methodist  Episcopal  work,  there 
are  no  other  missionaries  here  except  our  own. 

On  the  following  days  we  saw  something  of  the  city  and 
country.    Singapore  is  a  large  and  flourishing  commercial 
city,  with  a  population  of  over  100,000,  and  an  immense  ship- 
ping trade  with  all  the  world.     It  is  just  half  way  round  the 
world  from  New  York,  the  difference  in  time  being  twelve 
hours  and  ten  minutes.     It  stretches  out  its  arms  in  one 
direction  to  xndia,  Burmah,  England  and  Europe-in  another 
to  Australia  and  the  islands,  Borneo,  Java,  Sumatra,  Celebes, 
New  Guinea,  the  Phihppines,  and  the  thousands  more  which 
cover  the  Archipelago,  with  their  immense  trade  in  all  tropi- 
cal productions ;   and,  in  yet  another  direction,   the  trade 
reaches  away  to  Hong  Kong,  Saigon,  Bankok,  Shanghai,  the 
whole  China  Coast  and  Japan. 

No  city  in  the  world  has  such  a  central  location  as  Sing- 
apore between  East  and  West,  as  a  sort  of  rendezvous  for  the 


i 


Ill* 


304        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

ships  of  all  nations.  It  is  full  of  English  and  Scotch  people, 
and  they  are  merchant  princes,  and  live  in  great  luxury.  It 
is  full  of  Chinese,  and  their  houses  and  stores  crowd  hun- 
dreds of  streets.  And  it  is  surrounded  by  Malays,  the  real 
natives,  of  whom  we  shall  speak  shortly.  There  are  great 
numbers  of  Hindu  Coolies  from  Madras  and  Bengal.  There 
are  Dyaks  from  Borneo  and  from  Celebes,  and  people  from 
all  the  Islands.  And  there  are  a  good  many  Germans  and 
Dutch,  who  are  the  lords  of  Sumatra,  Java,  Celebes,  and 
Borneo,  and  have  much  trade  passing  through  Singapore. 

The  climate  is  peculiar.    Lying  on  or  very  near  the 
equator,  it  has,  of  course,  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun,  and  a» 
you  hold  up  your  umbrella  at  noon,  the  shadow  falls  directly 
at  your  feet  and  covers  your  whole  person.     We  did  not  dare 
to  look  up  to  see  that  fiery  sun,  which  no  European  eye  can 
defy  with  impunity.     But  it  is  not  nearly  so  hot  as  Northern 
India,  thirty  degrees  farther  north,  is  in  the  hot  season.     It 
is  seldom  one  hundred  degrees— indeed,  rarely  above  ninety- 
five  in  the  shade.     But  it  is  always  warm.     There  is  no  win- 
ter, autumn  or  spring,  but  one  everlasting  monotony  of  heat, 
just  like  our  July  weather  continued  forever.    And  then  it  is 
moist  heat— we  would  call  it  sweltering  weather.    The  air  is 
saturated  with  vapor.     It  rains  almost  every  day,  and  you 
are  in  a  steam  bath  all  the  time.     We  do  not  remember  an 
hour  in  Singapore  when  we  were  not  in  a   profuse  perspi- 
ration.    The  rainfall  is  between  sixty  and  seventy  inches  a 
year,  and  in  Berar,  only  between  thi-ty  and  forty,  notwith- 
standing the  heavy  Monsoon  rains  in  the  lattei  place.    Such. 


V  LANDS. 

id  Scotch  people, 
;reat  luxury.    It 
)res  crowd  hun- 
Malays,  the  real 
There  are  great 
Bengal.     There 
md  people  from 
ly  Germans  and 
a,  Celebes,  and 
;h  Singapore, 
very  near  the 
the  sun,  and  as 
ow  tails  directly 
We  did  not  dare 
iropean  eye  can. 
hot  as  Northern 
hot  season.     It. 
y  above  ninety- 
riiere  i»  no  win- 
>notony  of  heat, 
And  then  it  is 
her.    The  air  is 

Y  day,  and  you 
3t  remember  an 

profuse  perspi- 
eventy  inches  a 
forty,  notwith- 
Bi  place.    Such 


•~.u.»i*«».»^»«*'=^ 


;. imauwwwwgg^Tgi.iiaf.'va 


< 


Z 

CO 

IT 
UJ 

-I 

Ul 

> 
< 


AMOXG  THE  MAL^.  VS. 


305 


a  climate  produces  glorious  vegetation,  but  involves  a  heavy 
strain  upon  human  life. 

Cholera  and  small- pox  are  frequent  visitors,  and  the 
former  v^as  very  bad  at  the  time  of  our  visit,  and  we  had  to 
take  the  Lord  to  guard  us  from  its  breath.  It  had  just  car- 
ried off  the  leading  judge  of  the  island,  and  we  saw  two 
graves  in  the  English  cemetery  where  a  husband  and  wife 
had  lain  down  within  a  few  days  of  each  other.  Dear  Brother 
Lelacheui  had  a  fierce  attack  of  it  while  worn  with  waiting 
on  Mr.  Anderson,  and  only  the  power  of  God  carried  him 
through  the  great  struggle.  And  yet  Singapore  is  not  an  ex- 
ceptionally unhealthy  place,  and,  as  compared  with  any 
oriental  city  we  have  seen,  it  has  some  peculiar  attractions. 

The  drive  to  the  Botanical  Gardens  was  very  pleasant! 
Perhaps  nowhere  in  the  world  is  there  to  be  found  such  a  col- 
lection of  tropical  vegetation  in  its  own  native  soil.     Here 
they  are  all  classified  and  named  and  can  be  studied  at  leis- 
ure.    For  example,  in  one  section  there  is  a  group  of  all  the 
varieties  of  palms.     Our  readers  w  ould  scarcely  realize  that 
of  these  alone  there  were  more  than  a  scoix*  wholly  distinct. 
We  had  alreaiy  become  familiar  with  the  date  palm,  the 
cocoanut  palm,  and  the  Palmyra  palm  ;  but  here  were  many 
new  ones.     For  example,  we  saw,  for  the  first  time,  the 
*'  Travellers  Palm,"  the  most  beautiful  object  ni  a  tropical 
garden.     It  is  just  an  immense  fan,  the  handle  growing  up 
about  twenty  or  thirty  feet,  and  then  the  branches  spreading 
out  flat,  like  a  great  fan,  often  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  and 
beautifiil  beyond  description.    The  leaves  form  a  lot  of  little 


_ii»o"jffi>K?it}:a!}a; 


I 


306         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

cups,  and  are  always  found  full  of  water,  so  that  ^''e  tired 
and  thirsty  iwlgrini  always  rejoices  when  lie  hees  a  'i .reveller's 

Palm. 

Then  the  Sago  Palm  is  not  only  most  beautiful  but  in- 
valuable. They  cut  it  down  and  split  it  open,  and  make  out 
of  the  pith  and  fibre  a  nourishing  and  delicious  article  of  food. 
A  single  tree  will  produce  sago  enough  to  feed  a  man  a  year. 
There  is  another  palm  whose  stems  are  of  the  most  brilliant 
crimson,  with  leaves  of  green,  and  it  is  a  most  picturesque 

object. 

Many  of  the  trees  are  covered  with  orchids.  They  climb 
and  creep  over  the  tree  in  every  direction,  and  hang  with  the 
most  lovely  blossoms.  A  visit  to  the  orchid  house  in  the  Gar- 
dens revealed  hundreds  of  varieties.  They  have  a  strange 
peculiarity  in  Singapore.  All  the  orchids  of  a  certain  variety 
bloom  on  the  same  day.  The  day  of  our  arrival  we  saw  great 
quantities  of  a  beautiful  white  blossom  shaped  just  like  a 
white  dove.  Our  friend  told  us  it  was  the  "  Pigeon  Orchid," 
and  every  one  of  them  on  Singapore  Island  was  blooming  to- 
day, and  to-morrow  there  would  not  be  one  to  be  seen, — 
until,  perhaps,  two  months  later,  when  the  next  blooming  day 
would  come,  and  so  on  all  the  year  around.  Then,  he  said, 
in  Java  all  the  orchids  of  a  certain  kind  would  have  their  day 
of  bloom,  and  so,  all  over  the  Archipelago,  on  every  island, 
they  had  different  days  to  bloom,  and  then  the  forests  would 
be  hanging  with  their  bright  streamers  and  festoons. 

There  was  no  end  to  the  niaf2;nificent  ferns,  the  leaves  of 
some  of  them  being  nearly  two  yards  long.     Indeed,  days 


Si^l'^li^iaa 


L 


RV  LANDS. 

SO  that  *'ie  tired 
e  sees  a  '1/'- seller's 

,  beautiful  but  in- 
en,  and  make  out 
ous  article  of  food. 
Peed  a  man  a  year, 
the  most  brilliant 
,  most  picturesque 

;hids.  They  cUmb 
and  hang  with  the 
I  house  in  the  Gar- 
ey  have  a  strange 
3f  a  certain  variety 
rrival  we  saw  great 
shaped  just  like  a 
i  "Pigeon  Orchid," 
i  was  blooming  to- 
one  to  be  seen, — 
next  blooming  day 
id.  Then,  he  said, 
)uld  have  their  day 
JO,  on  every  island, 
1  the  forests  would 
d  festoons, 
ferns,  the  leaves  of 
ong.     Indeed,  days 


A.VO.\'(;   Tin:  MALAYS. 


307 


might  have  been  spent  in  studying  the  curious  and  beautiful 
works  of  God  in  this  rich  clime.     In  one  corner  of  the  Gar- 
dens we  found 
a  collection  of 
English  roses, 
c  a  V  n  a  t  ions, 
])inks  and  ver- 
benas ;     but 
they     looked 
lonely      a  n  d 
miserable,  and 
seemed      like 
exotics      and 
exiles   far 
from     home, 
and  wo  were 
sorry    to    see 
such  a  carica- 
ture    of    our 
humble    and 
welcome   vis- 
itors placed  in 
such    humili- 
ating contrast 
with     their 
gorgeous 
Southern  sis- 
ters. TROPICAL  FOLIAGE,  MALAY  PENINSULA. 


m 


30S       LAKcr.R  ocTr.ooKS  OX  Mfssrox.iK    r..4.\'h 

Bu  •  want  to  speak  of  tho  Mulu>  ^  i)l»'.  Wo  had 
visited  tli.  liom*  of  a  new  rac"  Wo  need  not  toll  our  readers 
that  the  Malay  po  -plo  form  the  fifth  of  tFi  races  >f  mankind, 
and  aro  essentialiy  different  from  tao  Mongolian,  the  Cauca- 
sian, the  :..';       ..  id  the  Tndian. 

Thin  vi\v\',  with  its  various  fan\ii)i'S,  numhers,  we  beliove, 
about  til irty  inillionn,  and  ofcnpioa  the  Peninsula  of  Malacca, 
and  the  •  In- mLs  lying  south  and  east.  They  are  usually  su))- 
posed  to  include  th(  Papuans  or  people  of  New  Guinea  and 
the  Australian  Islands.  They  ai-e  nearly  all  Mohammedans, 
although  801.  of  them  are  of  a  niud*n-at.^  type.  They  speak 
a  good  raanv  difporent  iguages  ;  thi;  Sumatrans,  the  Javan- 
ese, the  Dyaks  of  Bo.ueo,  the  people  o^  Celebes,  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  Phihi)i  ■  nes,  Timor  and  N(-  inea,  each  having 
their  distinct  d riled.  The  Malay  language  proi)er  is  spoken 
on  the  Malay  Peniu  ula,  and  the  small  islands  lying  contigu- 
ous, and  by  many  Malay  villages  that  have  been  planted 
along  the  shores  of  many  of  the  larger  islands. 

Wo  drove  out  into  the  country  a  few  miles  to  see  a  genu- 
ine Malay  village.  We  had  often  heard  of  these  people,  and 
of  the  strange  way  they  built  their  houses  over  the  water, 
but  we  had  always  supposed  a  Malay  village  meant  a  filthy, 
swampy  settlement,  where  no  one  else  could  live  in  the  damp, 
unhealthy  atmosphere.  It  was  a  genuine  surprise  to  find  that 
a  Malay  village  is  constructed  on  the  most  perfect  sanitary 
principles,  and  may  be  the  healthiest  place  in  the  world. 
They  select  the  side  of  a  stream  washed  by  the  tide,  and  thev 
build  their  houses  on  posts,  about  four  feet  above  the  ground. 


f.AXlK 

(pU».     W(>  had 

tell  our  readers 

ceH  of  I  mankind, 

Ian,  the  Cauca- 


ers,  we  beliove, 
lula  of  Malacca, 
ire  usually  suj)- 
Few  Guinea  and 
Mohammedans, 
)e.  They  speak 
rans,  the  Javan- 
ebes,  the  inhab- 
lea,  each  having 
.roper  is  spoken 
s  lying  contigu- 
.^e  been  planted 

3. 

Bs  to  see  a  genu- 
hese  people,  and 
over  the  water, 
meant  a  filthy, 
ive  in  the  damp, 
prise  to  find  that 
perfect  sanitary 
;e  in  the  world, 
iie  tide,  and  they 
bove  the  ground. 


I 


•^'.  "a-,i-.,JWii. 


op, 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1^  !■■  mil  2  2 

^   U£    12.0 


11.25 


1.4 


III: 


1.6 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


A^ 


^^ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


AMONG  THE  MAL^DS. 


hi^h 


309 
enough  to  be  al)Ove 


floor  is  soniewliat 
sweepings       and 


©  r  j  n  s  t 
high  tide.  The 
open,  and  all  the 
drainage  just  fall  ^|p^^^H^^H  ii^^<^>  the  water  be- 
low. And  then  ^B^^SflH|^^|  tAvice  a  day,  wheir 
the  tide  rises,  Old  ^^,-  \^^^^^K  Neptune  comes, 
witliout  the  sliglit-  ^^Hlpi^'^^^^H  est  ex]>ense  to  the 
family. and  washes  ^^^'  '^^^^^^  all  the  filth  and  re- 
fuse away  and  ^^B  ^^jK^^^^R  leaves  the  neigh- 
borhood as  sweet  ^^I^^^^^^^H  ^^^^  clean  r...  the 
strand.  ^^K^^^l^l^l         ^^^^'    walked    a- 

I'ound  a  lot  of  these  ^^^^^^^HIH  houses  at  low  tide 
and  found  the  ^^|^^^^^^^H  ground  clean  and 
dry,  and     covered     ^^^^^|^^^^| 

All     the     ^^^^^^^^BIh      houses  of  the 
]age  are  connected     H^^^H||H^|      ^.V  P^^uk  walks  or 
X)osts  as  high  as  the  a  Sumatra  woman.  houses,  so  that  you 

can  walk  from  house  to  house  even  at  full  tide.  In  short, it  is  a 
sort  of  Venice  in  miniature.  Our  local  friends  told  us  that  it  was 
decidedly  the  best  way  to  build  a  house  in  a  Malay  town,  and 
that  they  would  recommend  our  missionaries  always  to  live 
in  just  such  houses.  A  very  fine  Malay  house  of  this  kind, 
of  native  materials,  and  with  I'oom  for  three  or  foui'  persons, 
can  bo  built  for  less  than  S'200  in  gold,  which  is  certainly  very 
cheap,  much  cheaper  than  anything  we  can  build  in  India, 
even  with  its  low  ])rices. 

We  were  informed  by  Dr.  lairing,  who  has  given  much 
study  to  the  people  who  speak  the  Malay  language  propor, 


3IO 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSION ARY  LANDS 


AMONG  THE  MALAYS. 

there  fa  at  present  no  missionary  work  whatever  unto  a 
ftXlnt  sUty.    The  Methodist  work  in  Sn.gapore  .s  not 


IJXDS. 


XCs'Ti 


^'hatever  under  a 
L  Singapore  is  not 


./j/OAv/  '/■///■;  .y.ir.ivs. 


,11 


among  thoni,  but  is  confintMl  to  Englisli  and  Chinese.  The 
(German  and  Dutch  societies  are  laboring  on  Sumatra,  Java, 
and  Celebes,  but  these  people  do  not  speak  Malay,  but  a  local 
dialect.  And  so  this  great  people  and  tongue  are  wholly 
r.eglected  at  the  present  time,  and  calling  to  ns  to  send  them 
the  Gospel.  It  is  true  that  Malacca  has  been  a  Mission  centre. 
It  was  here  that  all  the  Chinese  societies  began.  But  it  has 
always  been  a  centre  for  points  beyond  itself.  It  was  the 
base  of  operations  where  the  missionaries  learn(>d  the  Cliinese 
language,  and  then,  on  the  opening  of  the  Chinese  ports, 
poured  their  workers  into  China,  and  left  the  Malays;  still 

unevangeli/.ed. 

This  really  does  seem  to  be  an  open  and  a  needy  field. 
Our  dev.   biotlier,  Mr.  Lelacheur,  has  learned  this  language 
and  has  this  people  nuuh  upon  his  heart.     He  and  Dr.  Lur- 
ing told  us  of  many  points  that  could  at  once  bo  occupied  at 
very   moderate  expense.      There    are  three  Malay  villages 
a  few  miles  from  the  city  of  Singapore.     There  is  a  cluster  of 
Malay  villages  •      ut  fourteen  miles  down  the  Straits.     Then 
there  is  th(^  lar^.  -  '■  v,^  state  and  city  of  Jahoreo  occupying, 
perhaps,  two  hnndred  miles  along  the  gulf,  and  whose  Sultan 
is  a  graduate  of  a  Missimi  school,  and  friendly  to  Missi.ms. 
This  whole  state-   which  is  under  British  protection,  and  the 
chief  ofUcerof  which  is  himself  a  Christian,  is  without  a  mis- 
sionary.    These  are  but  some  of  the  Malay  openings  in  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  Singapore,  while  on  Sumatra  and  the 
other  islands,  there  iire  many  Malay-speaking  villages  that 
have  no  voice  to  tell  them  of  Jesus. 


hv 


:iT2 


LARGER   OUTLOOKS  OX  .V/SSVOX.IRV  f.AXDS. 


This  does  seem  to  us,  after  prayerful  consiaeration,  to  be 
(.ne  of  the  fields  to  which  we  should  send  u  few  Avorkers  very 

isoon. 

Tlien,  from  Singapore,  it  is  but  a  short  distance,  with 
direct  comuuxnicatiou  by  steamer,  to  the  great  Kingdom  of 
Anam  with  its  twenty  millions  of  people  without  a  single 
nussionarv.  Singapore  is  the  natural  centre  for  this,  also,  at 
l)i'csent  at  least.  We  weiv  repaid  for  our  whole  journey  by 
learning,  we  think  without  doubt,  that  Anam  is  really  open 
for  our  missionaries.  A  young  Spanish  colporter  has  recently 
sold  Bibles  along  the  whole  coast,  and  has  stated  that  he  has 
the  fullest  liberty  to  labor  within  the  whole  kingdom.  V7e 
trust  that  as  little  time  as  j.ossible  will  be  lost  in  getting 
even  a  small  beginning  in  Saigon,  the  capital  of  Anam. 

But  what  about  the  Islands  of  the  Sea,  and  especially  the 
Caroline  Islands,  which  were  the  direct  goal  for  which  we 
went  to  Singapore  ?  Well,  this  has  not  been  lost  sight  of, 
and.  we  l)elieve,  will  also  be  reached  from  Singapore. 

Our  brethren  Avere  hindered  by  Mr.  Anderson's  illness 
from  attempting  the  long  voyage  necessary  to  reach  these 
Islands:  but,  meanwhile,  careful  investigations  have  been 
going  on.  and  it  is  believed  that  a  direct  line  of  monthly 
steamers  has  been  found  from  Siugapti-e  to  the  Sulu  Islands, 
from  the  Sulus  to  Mandinao.  and  from  Mandinao  to  Yap, 
which  is  the  island  we  have  aimed  to  reach.  But  in  reaching 
it,  we  niay  also  be  able  to  reach  two  other  groups  near  to  it, 
and  that  are  as  destitute  and  uuevangelized  as  Yap  is. 

Mr.  Lelacheur  has  had  an  excellent  local  work  in  Singa- 


ration,  to  be 
vorkers  very- 
stance,  with 

Kingdom  of 
out  a  single 
tliis,  also,  at 
e  journey  by 
s  really  open 

has  recently 
[1  that  he  has 
ngdom.  We 
st  in  getting 

Anani. 
especially  the 
foi-  which  we 
lost  sight  of, 
,pore. 

arson's  illness 
o  reach  these 
IS  have  been 
e  of  monthly 

Sulu  Islands, 
iinao  to  Yap, 
ut  in  reaching 
ups  near  to  it, 
Yap  is. 
vork  in  Singa- 


i 


> 


AMOXa  THE  MALAYS. 


313 


port'  among  the  En^lisli-speaking  people.  His  life  and  testi- 
mony among  tlie  English  Christians  and  missionaries  have 
heen  true,  manly,  and  most  hlessed.  He  has  won  for  himself 
and  (jur  work  the  respec;t  and  conftdenee  of  all  the  other 
workers.  Amid  trying  circumstances  he  has  stood  consist- 
ently and  bravely,  and  (rod  has  given  us  in  him  a  leader  of 
tried  faith,  deep  convictions,  practical  wisdom  and  experi- 
ence, and  fearless  courage,  such  as  we  cannot  always  find, 
and  greatly  n(>ed  in  such  new  fields. 

He  has  had  a  most  excellent  work  among  a  luimher  of 
young  men  and  women,  who  meet  with  liim  in  evangehstic 
street  meetings,  and  are  doing  glorious  work  for  God. 

The  need  of  English  work  is  very  great  in  Singapore. 
Our  friends  took  us  one  night  down  Malay  Street,  and  we 
would  not  dare  to  describe  too  vividly  the  scenes  we  saw, 
and  yet  it  is  good  for  us  to  know  something  of  this  world's 
dark  side.  Every  house  in  the  long  street,  on  both  sides,  was 
crowded  in  the  open  fronts  with  abandoned  women  of  every 
nation  under  heaven,  and  they  not  only  stood  and  sat  on  the 
open  verandas,  but  swarmed  in  the  middle  of  the  street, 
taking  hold  of  every  i)asser-by,  and,  literally,  almost  drag- 
ging them  to  their  der  They  were  in  all  the  costumes  of 
all  the  races,  and  they  »!.  oated  and  shrieked,  in  nearly  all  the 
languages  under  heaven,  their  calls  to  the  passer-by  And  up 
and  down,  and  in  and  out,  were  passing  hundreds  of  Euro- 
pean  men— sailors  and  soldiers,  officers,  low  and  even  high, 
without  shame  or  eifort  at  concealment. 

On  this  street  our  brother  holds  a  Gospel  meeting  every 


314       LARGF.K   OUTLOOKS  OX  MrSSfO.XAHV  LAXPS. 

week  u.ul  with  his  voice  of  thun.l.r  he  pvoclai.ns  the  Wor.l 
of  God  to  these  wicked  men,  and  points  his  finder  at  thcnv  m 
the  Bight  of  all  the  people,  as  the  men  that  are  nuikin^  th. 
name  of  Christianity  to  he  .Icspised  among  the  heathen.  He 
tedls  lis  that  the  street  is  usually  .leared  within  a  few  nun- 
utes  after  he  hegins,  an,l  these  scou.ulrels  are  glad  to  get 
away  from  the  sound  of  his  voi.-e.  G..dhlesshim  n.  lushravu 
and  dithcult  work,  and  let  not  a  morhid  sensitiveness  make 
us  afraid  to  see  and  meet  these  awful  needs. 

But    we    saw    a  sadder    sight  in  8ingapon>  than  evn 
Malay  Street.     Our  good  nussiouary  friends  t..ok  us   to  see 

the  Chinese  opium  dens.    En- 
tering an  onhnary  slio^)  door, 

we  were  ushered  into  a  room, 

ahout    thirty   feet  long  and 

tifteen  feet  wide,  with  a  long 

tahle  on  each   side  running 

the  whole  length  of  the  room, 

and  a  iJassage  hetvveen,  ahout 

a  yard  wide.     Th«>s(>  long  ta- 

hles  were  covered  with  cheap 

mats,  and  <.n  these  the  China- 
men win'e  lying-   snmking  or 

sleeping.  Our  friend  could 
talk  to  them  in  Chinese   and 

we  got  a  very  good  idt>a  of 
the  way  these  poor  fellows 
felt  ahout  it.  They  were  (piite 


A  CHINESE  PEDDLER,  SINGAPORE. 


^-? 


V7J6. 


AMONG  Till.  MALAYS, 


315 


s  the  Word 
■at  thorn  in 
iiiiikiiit;  the 
athcn.  Ho 
ji  few  iniii- 
^l:i(l  tit  gft 
in  hiH bravo 
eness  luako 

B  than  even 
V    us    to  see 


1,  SINGAPORE. 


willing  to  talk,  and  received  us  kindly,  and  i>tfercd  ns 
tea.  They  seemed  to  re-spect  him  very  nmeh,  and  let  him 
talk  freely  to  them.  W(*  asked  them  many  (|ueHtinns  through 
him,  and  they  were  jierfectly  frank  and  opt'ii  in  their  an- 
swers. 

Here  are  some  cjuestions  and  answers: 

"  How  nuichdoyou  siM-nd  on  opium  ;"  •"  Ahout  seventy 
cents  a  day."  "  How  much  do  you  earn  C  "\  sj.-nd  all  [ 
earn  ! "  Another  said  he  earned  thirty  cents  a  day.  and  spent 
forty  on  opium.  Another,  who  spent  all  his  income  on  it, 
said  he  did  not  save  anything  for  food.  We  asked  him  if  he 
was  married.  He  said  he  had  a  wife  and  fanuly  Ikmv.  He 
did  not  make  any  provision  for  them. 

Wt>  asked  another  if  it  mado  him  luqtpy.  He  laughed 
bitterly  and  said -''No,"  he  could  not  afford  to  huy  enough 
to  make  him  happy.  He  was  just  able  to  drown  a  littl<;  of  his 
misery.  He  asked  them  how  long  they  stayed  in  tli.'se 
places.  They  said,  "All  night."'  They  just  smoked  till  they 
fell  asleep  and  then  lay  there  till  morning,  often  they 
awoke  in  the  night,  and  had  to  get  more,  so  they  had  to  stay 
there  whei-e  they  could  get  it.  We  asked  them  if  they  would 
like  to  give  it  up,  and  they  all  said  "  Yes,'  if  God  would  give 
them  the  power  to  do  it,  l)ut  they  did  not  have  the  courage. 

Our  friend  jireached  the  Gospel  to  them,  and  they  listened 
with  earnest,  kind  faces,  that  made  our  very  hearts  bleed, 
and  when  we  got  through  they  just  went  on  smoking  again, 
and  seemed  to  sink  back  into  di'spair.  We  asked  him  how 
many  of  the  Chinese  of  Singapore  indulge  in  this  habit,  and 


r 


I.ARCI-K  OCTl.OOh'S  OX  MrSSlOXARV  I..1XDS. 


lu.  Hiiid  at  least  oighty  out  of  I'vevy  huiuliod.  We  were 
iippnlUHl.  And  w«»  fi'lt  that  tlu'  do-  ^  was  an  awful  master, 
and  tho  power  of  Omnipotence  alone  could  break  this  chain. 
Many  of  the  men  hlamed  our  governnjent  for  providing 
opium,  and  their  feeble  voices  were  but  echoes  of  God's 
tn'm.'ndous  judgment,  when  some  day  the  ([Uestion  shall  be 
asked,  "  Who  sU'W  tliese  souls  t" 

\V(>  looked  at  their  emaciated  bodies  andgaimt  faces,  and 
thought  of  hou-  it  would  all  end.  and  we  asked  them  how  it 
was  going  to  end.  And  they  said  they  believed  they  would 
go  to  heaven,  for  fhvii  ahraijs imid  for  the  opium  then  used! 
Poor,  lost,  human  souls  !  Oh,  let  us  pray  for  the  heathen. 
How  we  wislu'd  we  could  speak  to  tliein  !  How  we  longed  to 
take  them  in  our  arms,  and  make  them  feel  the  love  and 
].ower  of  the  One  that  alone  can  save  the  slave  of  opium  and 
the  captive  of  Satan. 

And  this  is  only  the  beginning  of  China.  Away  beyond 
these  stretch  the  mighty  plains,  where  four  hundred  millions 
of  these  bright,  strong,  capable  minds  and  hearts  are  bound 
in  yet  stronger  chains  of  darkness  and  despair. 

Lord,  hel))  the  heathen  !  Lord,  haste  Thy  coming  ! 


XDS. 

Wo  were 
fill  master, 

tliiH  cluiin. 
•  pioviding 
?8  of  God's 
ion  shall  bo 


XVIII. 


FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  SOUTHERN  CHINA. 


it  faces,  awd 
lu'iu  how  it 
thoy  would 
I  thci/  used ! 
he  heathen, 
ve  longed  to 
he  love  and 
oi)iuni  and 

way  beyond 
Ired  niillions 
;8  are  bound 

ning  ! 


WK  HAVE  just  spent  about  ten  days  in  Southern 
Cliina,  chiotly  in  llong  Kong,  Canton  and  vicinity, 
and  have  met  many  of  the  missionaries  and  a 
number  of  other  persons  interested  in  and  a((|iiainted  with 
this  field.  Wo  have  given  mu' li  careful  study  to  this  vast 
region,  with  its  distinct  dialect,  its  numerous  great  cities  and 
its  three  provinces,  containing  a  population  of  over  ;}i»,O0U,- 
U()0,  and  we  are  beginning  to  have  some  adequate  conception 
of  its  needs  as  a  mission  field,  and  its  claims  upon  the  church 
of  Christ. 

We  had  a  slow  and  somewhat  tedious  voyage  of  nearly  a 
week  from  Singapore  on  one  of  the  oldest  ships  of  the  P.  & 
0.  line.  They  only  run  their  best  ships,  as  a  rule,  to  Bombay 
and  Colombo,  and  transfer  their  passengers  for  China  to  in- 
ferior boats.  We  had  n  good  many  passengers,  including 
some  very  pleasant  Chiistian  friends,  among  others  Kev.  Dr. 
Ridgeway,  President  of  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Theological 
Seminary,  Evanston,  and  his  wife,  Col.  and  Mrs.  Waller,  of 
India,  and  Rev.  Dr.  West  and  family,  of  Singapore  Metho- 
dist Episcopal  Mission. 

We  had  a  daily  Bible  reading  in  the  ct*bin  and  Sabbath 

3«7 


^iS        LARGER  OrTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

services.  On  Sabbath  e%-ening  we  had  the  opportunity  of 
^])eakir,g  a  few  words  for  Christ,  and  at  the  close  of  the  ser- 
vice we  got  a  good  introduction  to  a  class  of  men  wliom  we 
had  met  a  good  many  times  already  in  the  East,  raid  who 
form  a  verv  distinct  and  influential  class  in  the  seaport  towns 
of  China  and  Japan.  They  are  the  English  abroad,  and,  we 
are  sorry  to  say,  that  many  of  them  are  the  worst  people  m 
the  East,  and  the  worst  enemies  of  Christianity  and  Chris- 
tian Missions. 

We  had  spoken  <iuite  plainly  in  our  address  on  Sabbath 
evening,  and  as  we  left  tlie  saloon  we  were  a.;<-osted  by  a 
crowd  of  men,  all  first-class  passengers  and  supposed  to  be 
gentlemen,  with  a  lot  of  insulting  (juestions  about  Christians 
and  missionaries.  Some  of  them  were  young  men  on  tlien- 
way  to  business  and  official  appointments  in  China  ;  others 
were  older  men  in  business  in  the  East.  One  of  them  was  a 
man  between  fifty  and  sixty  years  of  age,  the  father  of  two 
very  nice  looking  voung  ladies,  who  were  travelhng  as  i)as- 
sengers  on  the  steamer.     He  was  the  rudest  and  loudest  of 

all  the  crowd. 

They  began  by  denouncing  missionaries  as  the  worst 
men  in  China,  charging  them  with  the  basest  crimes,  as  well 
as  selfish  luxury  and  all  sorts  of  things,  and  they  said  that 
they  were  universally  hated  by  the  Chinese  and  the  English, 
and  other  foreigners  wherever  they  lived.  We  ventured  to 
suggest,  amid  the  loud  words  of  the  crowd,  that,  perhaps, 
the  reason  the  missionaries  were  hated  so  much  by  the  for- 
eigners and  English,  was  because  they  told  them  some  plain 


AMDS. 

iportunity  of 
e  of  the  sei'- 
en  whom  we 
ast,  and  who 
seaport  towns 
foad,  and,  we 
rst  people  in 
ty  and  Chris- 
es on  Sabbath 
acf.'osted  by  a 
ipposed  to  be 
)ut  Christians 
men  on  their 
China  ;  others 
f  them  was  a 
father  of  two 
eUing  as  i)as- 
md  loudest  of 

as  the  worst 
L'riraes,  as  well 
:hey  said  that 
d  the  English, 
re  ventured  to 
that,  perhaps, 
ich  by  the  for- 
em  some  plain 


iH^ 


Ffh-ST  /M/'A'F.SSIO.\S  OF  SOI  TlfFA'X  (7//.V.1. 


3^9 


,i.^  o  Minmnti.lilii 

Veifrt  o/(,      Gobi 
C 


2i   aA      '^•''^!:^ — ilTS.Canton     y'^yi---  -':.■■' 

/*^-:  ■   -■  ■      .  ■  .  ;,    •■ 


truths  about  the  shaniefid  way  they  lived  among  the  heathen, 
and  we  told  them  that  we  had  seen  a  good  many  Englishmen 
(in  Malay  Street,  Singapore,  in  very  bad  comi)any. 

Tlien  th.  y 
laughed     in 
nur  face,  and 
told  us  that 
they    them 
selves    were 
there,      and 
(      t-ybody 
went,  and  it 
Avasall  right 
to    go,    and 
the  old  man, 
partic  u  1  a  r 
ly.     boasted 
that  he  had 
a   perfect 
right  to  go  ; 
lie  was  made 
with     these 
jtassionsand 
appe  t  i  t  e  s, 
and    it  was 

intended  :hat  he  should  indulge  them.     We  asked  him  what* 
he  would  tViink  of  his  daughters  doing  so,  and  suggested  that 
if  it  was  all  right  for  a  man  it  was  just  as  right  for  his  wife 


S     ^     i 


MAP  OF  EASTERN  ASIA. 


320       I.ARCr.R  OCTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

and  his  child.  He  said  of  course  it  was,  and  his  daughters 
had  the  right  to  do  the  same  if  they  wanted  to.  We  were  so 
disgusted  that,  after  trying  in  vain  to  say  some  earnest 
words  to  this  crowd  of  first-class  ruffians,  who  literally  gloried 
in  their  shame,  we  turned  away  with  a  few  words  of  solenm 
warning,  and  got  alone  undei-  the  stars  of  heaven  to  talk 
to  God  ahout  something  worse  than  even  heathenism  in 
China.  This  is  the  element  amid  which,  with,  of  course, 
some  heautiful  exceptions,  many  of  our  missionaries  have  to 
commend  Christ  and  Christianity  to  the  people  of  China 
with  these  object  lessons  before  their  eyes. 

On  Monday  morning  we  found  ourselves  in  the  harbor  of 
Hong  Kong.     This  island,  with  the  beautiful  city  of  Victoria, ' 
forms  one  of  the  most  striking  harbor  views  in  the  world,  and 
as  you  go  ashore  and  visit  the  various  points  of  the  island 
your  first  impressions  are  confirmed  in  every  way. 

The  heat  is  moderate,  never  approaching  tlie  summer 
temperature  of  India,  and  seldom  exceeding  ninety  degrees 
in  the  hottest  weather,  or  going  below  forty-five  degrees  in 
the  cold  season.  The  vegetation  is  very  rich,  and,  while  not 
nearly  so  tropical  as  Singapore,  yet  it  is  quite  luxuriant,  and 
the  hills  and  valleys  are  a  mass  of  Uving  green.  The  streets 
and  roads  that  wind  about  the  hills  are  beautifully  shaded 
with  avenues  of  fine  trees,  and  the  ferns  literally  swarm  on 
every  hillside.  There  are  over  one  hundred  varieties  of  ferns 
indigenous  tc  the  island,  and  the  moisture  of  the  climate 
keeps  them  ever  fresh  and  beautiful. 

Immediately  back  of  the  landing  wharf  and  the  city,  the 


»  turn 


\NDS. 


lis  (laughters 
We  were  so 
lonie  earnest 
orally  gloried 
■ds  of  solemn 
aven  to  talk 
iathenism  in 
h,  of  course, 
laries  liave  to 
pie  of  China 

the  liarhorof 
y  of  Victoria, ' 
,he  world,  and 
of  the  island 
ay. 

the  summer 
linety  degrees 
ve  degrees  in 
md,  while  not 
iixuriant,  and 
.  The  streets 
tifuUy  shaded 
illy  swarm  on 
ieties  of  ferns 
if  the  climate 

d  the  city,  the 


flT" 


/■VA'sv  i.vrRESsrojWs  of  southf.rx  i  inx.  i.        ^21 

Peak  I'ises  to  a  lieijjjht  of  2,000  feet,  and  It'sscr  lulls  surrouiiil 
it  on  every  side,  but  the  nearness  and  boldness  of  these  hills 
give  them  a  greater  apparent  heij:,ht,  and  they  staiul  like 
gigantic  shoulders  in  tlu;  backgroinid.  At  their  base  and  np 
their  sides  many  handsome  buildings  rise  in  teri'aces  of 


o 

z 
o 

a 

z 
o 

I 


Vii 


nV> 


H-  i 

■n'^ 


Ibd.yl^ 


STREET  IN  HONQ  KONQ. 


streets,  presenting  a  line  appearance.  The  architecture  is 
well  adapted  to  the  climate  and  scenery.  Government  House 
is  half  way  up  the  hill,  and  the  Botanical  Gardens,  with  some 
fine  trees  and  plants,  a  little  higher  up.  There  is  a  tramway 
leading  almost  to  the  summit,  and  the  view  from  the  Peak 
over  the  harbor  and  islands  is  superb.     The  view  from  below, 


nT 


IJ 


322  J.Ah'CI-.l'!   OfTl.OOKS  OX  .irfSSfOWl RV  r.AXDS. 

at  night,  Avheii  tiers  upon  tiers  of  light  encircle  the  gigantic 
hill  almost  to  its  sunnnit,  is  extremely  grand. 

The  population  is  about  i;40,000,  of  whom  H,5(Kiare  Euro- 
])eans  and  Amei-icans,  and  ll(),f)Of»  Chinese,  and  the  rest  of 
them  Asiatics.     The  trade  is  enormous,  exceeding  ^-JoOjOOO,- 
000.     The  ])oimlation  has  increased  one-third  in  the  last  ten 
years,  and  the  business  of  the  place  is  evidently  extremely 
prosperous.     Its  shipping  and   telegraphic  conmiunications 
touch  almost  every  part  of  the  world,  and,  like  Singapore,  it 
is  a  sort  of  rendezvous  for  the  commerce,  l)oth  of  the  eastern 
and  western  nations.     It  is  the  eastern  boundary  of  Great 
Britain's  wonderful  Empire,  and  one  of  her  most  beautiful 
and  prosperous  colonies.     She  has  held  the  island  since  1841, 
and  it  is  the  base  of  hei-  military  and  naval  movements  in 
the  East,  and  the  point  from  which  she  is  able  to  enforce 
upon  the  haughty  Ch.inese  the  observance  of  their  treaties, 
and  the  rights  of  British  and  other  foreign  citizens  abroad. 

Hong  Kong,  while  not  directly  a  missionary  field,  at  least 
in  the  same  sense  as  Canton,  is  a  missionary  centre,  and  the 
headquarters  of  many  of  the  missionary  societies  for  South- 
ern China,  especially  the  Church  Missionary  Society,  the 
Basil  Missionary  Society,  and  the  London  Missionary  Society, 
some  of  which  we  had  the  privilege  of  visiting. 

But  our  objective  point  was  not  Hong  Kong,  but  In- 
terior China.  And  so,  the  day  following  our  arrival  at  Hong 
Kong  found  us  on  board  the  fine  steamer,  "  Hankow,"  sail- 
ing through  a  multitude  of  beautiful  islands  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Pearl  River,  and  then  up  that  fair  river  to  Canton.    The 


i*i. 


!  .-^i^MHWnti-anjii) 


■  L.tXDS. 

I  8,5(H)aroEuro- 
and  the  rest  of 
edinj?  ,^-J<)(»,000,- 
1  in  the  last  ten 
ently  extremely 
c^ommunications 
ike  Singapore,  it 
,h  of  the  eastern 
mdary  of  Great 
r  most  beautiful 
sland  since  1S41, 
il  movements  in 

able  to  enforce 
)i  their  treaties, 
itizeiis  abroad, 
ary  field,  at  least 
y  centre,  and  the 
lieties  for  South- 
ary  Society,  the 
issionary  Society, 
ng. 

ig  Kong,  but  In- 
r  arrival  at  Hong 
"Hankow,"  sail- 
;  at  the  mouth  of 

to  Canton.    The 


FIRST  IMPRESSrOXS  OF  SOCTIIEh'X  CHINA. 


323 


picture  was  a  pretty  one.  The  islands  and  shores  were 
clothed  with  ridiest  green — the  finest  shades  we  have  seen 
in  the  East.  The  entrance  is  through  the  Tiger  Pass,  be- 
tween two  promontories  which  the  Chinese  have  crowned 
with  tw(j  i)ag()das  to  keep  tlie  strong  current  of  the  river 
from  carrying  the  good  luck  it  bears  from  the  interior  out 
to  the  sea,  and  so  losing  thes(!  jjrecious  influences  to  the 
country.  Undulating  plains  and  distant  hills,  with  many 
intersecting  canals  and  streams,  and  waving  fields  of  young 
rice  of  the  most  brilliant  green,  spread  out  on  either  shore. 
Here  and  there  a  handsome  pagoda  rises,  some  as  high  as 
nine  stories  ;  and,  occasionally,  a  sfpiare  tower  is  seen,  de- 
signed to  bring  good  luck  and  success  to  the  literary  candi- 
dates from  this  village  or  neighborhood.  Myriads  of  graves 
cover  many  of  the  hillsides,  every  one  being  located  on  wliat 
the  Chinese  oracles  had  pronounced  a  "  lucky  "  spot  ;  for  to 
be  buried  in  "a  lucky  grave,'' and  to  be  worshi])])ed  by  his 
children  and  posterity,  is  one  of  the  highest  ambitions  of  a 
Chinaman.  The  scenery  of  the  Pearl  River  from  Hong  Kong 
to  Canton  is  not  unlike  the  Hudson,  and  in  some  respects  is 
quite  as  pretty. 

A  sail  of  eighty  miles  brings  us  to  Canton.  An  immense 
forest  of  masts  ;  miles  of  small  boats  of  every  size  and 
shape,  roofed  over  with  matting  and  filled  with  families  of 
women  and  children,  who  live  in  them  all  their  lives  ;  a  great 
expanse  of  low-roofed  houses  stretching  along  the  river  front 
and  reaching  back  to  the  hills  beyond  ;  one  or  two  English - 
looking  church  spires  ;  a  lofty  native  pagoda  in  the  distance  ; 


.rur"' 


324 


I..IR(;/:R  O/T/.OOAS  ox  M/SSfOXARV  LANDS. 


a  few  nine-story,  sciuare  buiMings,  ovoi-topping  the  rest,  anrl 
standing  out  all  over  tin;  city  like  the  new  Chicago  castles  in  the 
air  ;  and  there,  at  the  landing,  a  great  swarm  of  Chinesci  men, 
women  and  children,  and  one  familiar  face,  waiting  on  the 
jetty  to  w(>lcome  us -this  was  our  first  view  of  Canton,  the 
capital  of  (^uan-tnng  Province,  the  metropolis  of  Southern 
China,  and  almost  the  largest  <ity  in  the  Chinese  Empire. 
What  its  population  actually  is  no  one  can  .accurately  tell. 
Those  who  have  the  best  right  to  know  estimate  it  at  between 
one  and  two  millions  at  least. 

Perhaps  one-fourth  of  the  popidation  live  always  on  the 
water.  Their  houses  are  little  boats,  roofed  with  matting, 
and  arranged  with  a  simi>le  kitchen  in  the  rear,  a  little  cabin 
in  the  front,  where  the  family  live  and  die,  eat  and  deep,  and 
find  both  their  residence  and  means  of  livelihood.  The  front 
cabin  is  a  sleeping  place  at  night,  and  during  the  day  a  place 
for  passengers  to  sit  while  they  are  ferried  l)y  the  Chinese 
family,  for  a  few  cents,  across  or  up  and  down  the  river  or 

canals. 

These  boats  all  have  a  i)lace  to  moor  at  night,  and  this  is 
theirs  by  right,  and  the  only  local  habitation  they  ever  know. 
They  may  go  ashore  to  labor,  and  the  father  often  does  dur- 
ing the  day,  but  they  nuist  live  on  the  water.  The  little  girl 
that  is  born  on  the  water  must  die  on  it.  She  dare  not  marry 
a  shoreman,  or  ever  leave  this  class  of  river  people.  She  may, 
and  indeed  does,  many  some  Chinaman,  but  it  must  be  a 
river  man,  who  will  take  her  to  live  on  some  other  little  boat. 

The  female  members  of  the  family  do  most  of  the  row- 


the  rest,  antl 
>castlosintlie 
Chinosii  men, 
Liiting  on  the 
I  Canton,  the 

of  Southern 
ncse  Empire, 
curutc'ly  tell. 
3  it  at  between 

iilways  on  the 
with  matting, 
,  a  little  cabin 
and  Bleep,  and 
h1.  Tlie  front 
lie  day  a  place 
-  the  Chinese 
n  tho  river  or 

,lit,  and  this  is 
ley  ever  know, 
ften  does  dur- 
The  little  girl 
laie  not  marry 
pie.  She  may, 
t  it  must  be  a 
ther  little  boat. 
5t  of  the  row- 


FfRST  lArPRKSSfOXS  OF  So/ ■/•///: A'X  I7//X.I. 


325 


.^^^■■i^ 

."."  . 

■i^l-,.:.-.. 

,;-'^-            1 

-^-v 

■r:::% 

ing      AN'e  had   to  cross   on  these  boats  inany  times  whihMii 

Canton,  hut  it  was  seldom  that  we  could  j;<'t  a  man  ;   usually 

an  old  woman  stood  in  the  stern  and  worked   the  scull   oars, 

and  two  or  three  young  girls  in  front  pulled  tho  other  oars, 

■while  two  or  three  of 

us  sAt  in  the  cabin, 

and    watched    tlu>ir 

pleasant    faces    and 

firm  muscles  as  they 

jmlled  the  oars  with 

the  strc^ngth  of  men. 

Thousands— yes,  tens 

of   t  h  o  u  s  a  n  d  s — of 

these  boats  line  the 

shores   of   the  river 

and     its     numerous 

canals,    and    a    high 

official  told   us   that 

perhaps     one-fourth 

of  the  peoi)le  liv(>d  in 

them. 

It  was  a  great 
pleasure  once  more 
to  meet  our  dear  nus- 

sionaries,  Mr.  and  ]Mis.  Keeves,  and  their  native  assistant, 
Fung  W5n,  and  to  find  them  well  and  happy  in  their  new 
field.  We  spcnit  nearly  a  week  in  their  hosjiitable  little 
home,  and  had  manv  hallowed  sea.sons  of   conference  and 


BOAT  GIRL. 


326       LARcr.R  orr LOOKS  ox  AffssroxARV  i.Axns. 

prayer  respecting  thi'  great  Wi.rk  for  which  th.'y  luul  come, 
and  also  many  opportunities  of  nu'.'ting  the  other  mission- 
aries in   Canton,  and  of   seeing  the  city  an.l  surroumUng 

country. 

We  sluill  tirst  give  a  few  sketches  of  th(!  country  and 
people,  and  then  refer  to  the  missionary  work.  • 

Our  first  visit  was  to  the  foreign  quarter.     This  is  a 


FOREIGN    SETTLEMENT,  CANTON. 

pretty  little  island  called  "  Shameen,"  which  is  detached  from 
the  native  city  and  assigned  io  the  English,  French,  Ameri- 
cans and  other  foreigners  for  their  residence.  It  was  fitted 
up  hy  the  Chinese  Imperial  authorities  at  a  cost  of  nearly  a 
quarter  of  a  million  dollars.  It  is  very  neat  and  pretty,  and 
free  from  the  odors- and  other  disagreeahle  things  that  infest 
all  Chinese  citi(>s.  Here  are  the  foreign  consulates  and  th.^ 
homes  of  most  of  the  Missions,  including  our  own.  We  had  the 


u'y  hiul  come, 
)th<'i-  niission- 
l  smroundiiif; 

9  country  and 

er.    This  is  a 


mletachcd  from 
French,  Anieri- 
■.  It  was  fitted 
;ost  of  nearly  a 
and  i)rotty,  and 
ings  that  infest 
isulates  and  tht^ 
wii.  We  had  the 


/■//,".s  •/■  /.i//7.7;.W(^\.s-  <>/■'  .sof  ////■AX  <  ///  \ . '.         327 

pleasure  of  meeting  tlio  American  Consul  here,  a  gentleman 
who  haH  Hpent  tt-n  years  in  Canton  in  olVuial  service,  and 
whoso  removal  at  this  tini.'  wnnld  1...  deeply  rcKiott.'d  l.v  .dl 
th«i  missionari(>s. 

It  is  a  most  critical  time  in  China.     The  reckless  course 
of  the  American  Congress  in  their  Anti-Chinese  legislation 
is  at  length  heginning  to  react  in  China,  and  only  a  few  days 
ago,  here  in  Canton,  a  native  pai)er  holdly  advocated  tli.' 
policy  of  retaliation,  and  proposed  that  if  America  expelle.i 
the  Chinese,  China  should  undouhtedly  expid  every  American 
from  her  shores.     At  such  a  time  it  is  easy  for  a  popular  dis- 
turhance  to  arise  at  any  moment ;  and,  therefore,  the  pres- 
ence in  China  of  an  American  representative  of    Mr.  Sey- 
mour's experience  and    high    standing   with    the    Chinese 
officials,  is  of  much  more  value  and  importance  than  any 
question  of  political  expedienc-y  incident  to  a  change  of  par- 
ties at  the  White  House. 

Our  next  visit  was  to  the  native  city.  The  first  impres- 
sion a  stranger  has  of  the  streets  of  Canton  is  the  thronging 
crowd.  What  myriads  of  human  heings,  i)ushing,  jostling, 
shouting,  tramping  on-on-<.n,  with  their  curious,  various 
loads  and  costumes  and  faces,  through  those  narrow,  c-rowdi'd 
passages  evermore.  Go  where  you  will,  it  is  ever  the  same 
dense,  teeming  crowd.  You  can  gather  a  moh  of  thousands 
in  any  part  of  Canton  inside  of  three  minutes.  You  have 
but  to  stand  on  the  street,  and  they  are  around  you  so  thick 
that  you  can  scarcely  move.  You  have  hut  to  enter  a  store, 
and  you  have  a  score  to  witness  youi'  bargain  and  in^p(>ct 


/..if?f;/-A'  orn.ooks  ov  .VAsvArv.//.-)' /..;.v/'.9. 


your  punlmsc.  V<mi  have  hiii  {n  look  ai'ouiid.  aiul  voic*!^  are 
iiMuir,  "  rikslia."  "cliair,"  "Coolie,"  which  nicaurt.  "Do  you 
want  fi  jiiuiksha,  or  a  Sedan  ehair,  or  a  Coolie  i" 

And  what  strange  niixtnres  are  in  that  crowd!  Here 
i-onie  three  hearers  carrying  a  Sedan  chair,  with  a  lady  in- 
Hide,  carefnlly  curtained  fioin  view.  Ih-re  conici  a  water 
carrier,  with  his  two  great  vessels  of  wal'M-  l>nlan<evl  on  Ji 
hanihoo  ])ole  over  liis  shoulders.  Here  is  another  man.  with 
two  haskots  similarly  halanced,  containing  a  nice  fat  dog  in 
one  and  several  cats  in  the  other  ;  ol  ••ourse.  they  aie  for  the 
cat  and  dog  market,  which  we  will  soon  reach.  Hero  are 
two  Chinamen  carrying  an  enormous  pig  in  a  hasket,  hung 
from  a  long  hamhoo  pole.  And  as  they  all  go  dashing  on, 
they  are  shouting  and  screaming  to  clear  the  way,  and  eveiy 
l-edestrian  is  expected  to  make  Avay.  The  first  time  we  went 
through  the  streets,  we,  too.  had  a  chair,  and  our  ruiuiers 
screamed  as  loudly  as  the  others,  and  the  ix.'ople  tuined  aside 
and  made  room,  and  then  stood  a  moment,  and  said,  one  to 
the  other,  "Foreign  devils!"  At  othjr  times  we  walked 
more  leisurely,  and  let  the  strange  scenes  slowly  fix  tlunn 
shelves  on  our  imagination. 

Then  one  is  struck  with  the  narrow  streets.  We  liave 
seen  narrow  streets  in  Jerusalem  and  Cairo,  hut  never  such 
.streets  as  these.  Why,  some  places  they  are  not  more  than 
four  feet  wide,  and  we  need  not  say  that  no  wlu'eled  vehidis 
not  even  the  nan.w  jinriksha,  ever  ])assed  through  these 

lahyrinths. 

Then  the  s.'m.Js.     Tiu-y  are  ot  all  sorts.     There  are  re- 


/../.\7>.V. 

iuid  v<)ic«w  aie 
■aurt.  "Do  you 

riowd  1  ]U'Vii 
ith  a  liuly  iii- 
Diiio*  a  watiT 
Kilaiic**!  (»n  a 
lor  man.  with 
ico  fat  (loK  ill 
ley  are  for  the 
ih.  Hore  are 
I  haskot,  hung 
;o  (lashing  on, 
'ay,  and  t-vcry 
thjic  Nvt^  wont 
1  our  runners 
le  tuined  asido 
lid  said,  one  to 
OH  wo  walked 
wly  fix  tlieni- 

ets.  Wo  have 
lut  novor  suoh 
not  inoro  tlian 
hoolod  vehicle, 
through  these 

Tlicro  are  re- 


II 


FI k'ST  IMPh'ESSIOXS  OF  SOITIIERN  CHINA. 


329 


liginus  smells,  from  inct'iise  tapers  and  burning  papers,  and 
there  are  the  most  vicious  odors  conceivable  from  foul  ac- 
cumulations and  fetid  markets,  and  decaying  fish  and  veget- 
ables, and  crowded  shops  and  tenements.  And  yet  the  worst 
8t]'eet  in  Canton  is  a  i)aradise  to  one  of  the  temples  of 
Benares. 


CHINESE   TEMPLE,    CANTON. 

Of  course  we  went  to  the  "  Temi)le  of  the  Five  Hundred 
Gods,"  and  saw  the  coarse  and  jovial-looking  deities  in  brass  ; 
images  which  looked  much  more  nKw  a  crowd  of  jolly  Dutch- 
men in  a  lagor  beer  saloon  than  anything  divine  or  even 
Chinese.  Two  of  the  five  hundred  wore  near  the  entrance, 
and  they  had  their  arms  full  of  babies,  and  they  seemed  to 


I  ill 

I 


330        I-ARGili:   OITLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

be  the  favorites,  for  their  shrines  were  full  of  burning  in- 
cense, pl.'uxMl  there  by  their  worshippers. 

At  the  "Temple  of  Longevity"  there  were  several  huge 
deities  in  brass,  who  nuist  have  lived  a  long  time  to  grow  so 
big,  but  they  all  had  the  same  jovial  look  of  coarse  animal 
enjoyment,  showing  the  Chinaman's  liighest  ideal  of  a  supe- 
rior being  in  a  very  humbling  light.  At  this  temple  the  crowd 
was  very  rough,  and  two  of  us  received  slight  blows  from 
some  young  rascal  in  tho  mob,  but  no  serious  injury.  We 
had  a  lady  with  us,  and  she  was  the  occasion  of  most  of  the 
excitement  and  curiosity.  For  a  lady  to  appear  publicly  on 
the  streets  of  C'l.ina  is  very  unusual,  and  the  fi-eedom  of 
Europeans  always  attract;:  much  attention. 

The  "Temple  of  Horrors"  is  also  one  of  the  sights  of 
Canton.  It  contains  a  number  of  representations  t)f  future 
punishment,  that  are  vivid  enough  to  make  even  a  Chinaman 
sober.  Each  little  chapel  contains  certain  representations  of 
the  torments  of  the  dannied.  In  one  they  are  being  boiled 
in  oil,  in  another  encased  in  a  hollow  tree  and  sawn  asunder 
down  the  whole  length  of  the  timber,  and  so  on  through  a 
dozen  different  progressions  of  every  conceivable  torture.  In 
each  scene  the  god  of  the  lower  world  is  represented  in  some 
horrible  form,  and  the  poor  culprits  who  are  waiting  for 
their  turn  are  standing  in  the  background  with  nuich  con- 
cern and  terror  depicted  on  their  faces.  This  temple  is 
farmed  out  every  year  to  a  speculator  who  pays  a  large  rent 
for  it,  and  receives  all  the  offerings  of  the  worshippers  m  re- 
turn, and,  it  is  said,  always  makes  a  fortune  out  of  it.     The 


HIH(.i41»JifS 


.  LV/)S. 

'  burning  in- 

sov(3ial  huge 
le  to  grow  so 
oarse  animal 
;al  of  a  supe- 
ple  the  crowd 
t  blows  from 
.  injury.  We 
f  most  of  tlie 
ir  publicly  on 
le  freedom  of 

the  sights  of 
ons  of  future 
n  a  (Hiinaman 
esentations  of 
>  being  boiled 
sawn  asunder 

vn  through  a 
le  torture,  lu 
iented  in  some 
e  waiting  for 
th  nuich  cou- 
'his  temple  is 
ys  a  large  rent 
■shippers  in  re- 
.utof  it.     The 


F//^sT  i.vrR/:ssio\s  ( >/■•  sorrHr.h'X  c  his  A.        33 1 

practical  Chinaman  is  not  unwilling  tonmke  money  even  out 
of  a  subject  so  horrible.  The  place  was  full  of  nmney 
cha.^'ers'and  various  professions  and  offices,  and  seemed  a 
strange  mixture  of  sordid  avarice  an  ^  ghastly  superstition. 

The  public  execution  grounds  were  not  much  less  revolt- 
ing     Here  is  an  open  triangular  piec  ;  of  vacant  ground,  with 
a  number  of  large  crosses  leaning  against  the  wall,  where  not 
less  than  three  hundred  persons  every  week,  on  an  average, 
are  publicly  executed. 
One  of  the  execution- 
ers,   a   brutal-looking 
creature,    wanted    to 
show  us   the  swords 
they  use,  but  we  c(Hild 
not  stand  this.    Here, 
men  and  women  are 
tortured  to  death    at 
the    rate  of   ir),<'(>o  a 
year,   in  the  name  of 
justice.        They     are 

sometimes  fastened  to  thes(^  crosses  and  hacked  to  pieces  as 
they  hang  there  ;  sometimes  sliced  into  a  dozen  pieces  and 
slowly  tortured  to  death,  and  sometimes  more  mercifully 
beheaded  or  strangled  at  once. 

In  China  anv  man  may  be  arrested  on  suspicion  and 
lodged  in  jail,  and  when  hi.  trial  comes  off  there  is  no  lawyer 
to  defend  him  ;  lawyers  are  unknown  in  China  ;  but  he  must 
plead  his  own  cause  before  a  magistrate,  who  is  always  open 


CHINESE  MODP,  OF  PUNISHMENT. 


iii 


T^T,!       i.ARcr.R  (wn Diik's  OX  .u/ssrox.iRY  L.ixns. 

to  luibeiy,  and  from  wlioso  docisioii  Ihoic  is  no  appeal. 
Every  accused  i)Oison  is  l>(>uiid  to  prove  his  innocence,  and, 
milike  English  law,  is  assujninl  to  he  jiuilty,  unless  he  can  do 
so.  Unless  an  accused  ])erson  has  money  he  rarely  escapes 
(ondenniatiou.  Tliousands  of  innocent  i)ersons  languish  in 
])riso;i  without  a  hearing,  or  die  on  the  execution  grounds  as 
hrutes,  and  there  is  none  to  help  or  i)ity.  and  the  great  crowd 
rushes  on  and  misses  them  not.  If  Solomon  had  seen  Canton 
lie  could  not  liave  given  a  h(>tter  account  of  it  than  his  sad 
refiaiu  over  human  wrongs  :  '"So  1  leturned,  and  considered 
all  the  oppi-essions  that  are  done  under  the  sun  :  and  behold 
the  teai'S  of  such  as  Avei-e  op])ressed  and  th(^y  had  no  com- 
forter ;  and  on  the  side  of  tlieir  oppressors  there  was  power, 
])ut  they  liad  no  comforter.  Wherefore,  I  praised  the  dead 
whicli  ai-e  already  dead,  more  tliau  the  living  which  are  yet 
alive." 

Our  circuit  led  us  out  througli  tlie  city  gate  to  a  lofty 
lull  on  which  stands  tlie  Five  Story  Pagoda,  and  from  the  top 
of  this  we  got  a  good  view  of  the  great  city  below  us,  Avith 
its  almost  countless  houses,  apparently  built  in  one  solid 
ma.ss,  with  just  a  nai-row  path  between  them.  These  high 
buildings,  that  I'ise  here  and  there  to  eight  or  nine  stoi'ies,  are 
the  pawn  shops,  and  in  their  ui)per  stories  are  the  accumu- 
lated pledges  of  years,  on  which  money  has  been  loaned  at 
exorbitant  interest,  and,  in  almost  every  case,  they  become 
at  last  the  property  of  the  money  lender.  These  men  are  the 
millionaires  of  China,  and  in  these  odd  tower-like  places  are 
treasiu'es  of  great  value. 


I  a!JWIUllli,l.>(llWIULJt.JJW.i  » • 


lA'DS. 


/■VA'SV  /.U/'A'/.SS/O.VS  (>/'  SiU-f/f/.hW  <  /f/\.i. 


1   '^   -^ 


no  appeal, 
ocence,  and, 
!ss  ho  can  do 
ri'ly  escapes 

laiif^uish  in 
a  j^rounds  as 
great  crowd 
seen  Canton 
;han  Lis  sad 
d  considered 
:  and  behold 
had  no  com- 
)  was  power, 
ed  the  dead 
liich  are  yet 

te  to  a  lofty 
from  the  top 
low  us,  with 
in  one  solid 
These  high 
16  stories,  are 
the  accuniu- 
jen  loaned  at 
they  become 
!  men  are  the 
ke  places  are 


Yonder,  in  the  distance,  is  the  Roman  CathuUc  church, 
with  two  great  spires  ch^aving  tlic  sky.  wliich  have  been  a 
constant  offence  to  the  C'liinese,  vvlio  hate  any  sharp  point  in 
the  air,  because,  they  say.  it  obstructs  the  Dragon  as  he  flies, 
and  makes  him  angry.  Tliey  would  have  torn  down  the  old 
Cathedral  long  ago  had  it  not  been  for  foreign  i)rotection. 

Here,  just  under  us,  are  far-extended  hillsides  covered 
with  the  graves  of  many  generations.     On  several  of  them 
we  can  see  the  fires  burning  where  incense  has  just  been 
offered,  and  ])aper  money  burned,  that  it  may  go  to  tliem  in 
smoke  and  become^  currency  for  them  in  the  other  world.  On 
others  there  are  great  offerings  of  rice,  or  sometimes  a  fowl 
or  a  piece  of  meat,  whicli  the  poor  Chinaman  really  needs  for 
himself,  but  offers  instead  to  his  deceased  father,  and  expects 
the  spirits  to  carry  it  off  that  night,  and  give  it  to  him.     It 
usually  does  disappear    before  morning,  but   it   is  into  the 
mouth  of  some  hungry  Chinaman  or  wandering  Pariah  dog. 
They  also  burn  over  the  graves  suits  of  ])aper  clothes  for 
their  departed  friends  to  wear.     You  can  buy  these  suits  in 
the  stores,  but  you  nuist  not  be  surprised  if  the  trousers  have 
only  one  leg  and  the  tunic  one  side.     As  it  is  only  a  spiritual 
transaction,  the  Chinaman  believes  that  half  a  coat  will  rep- 
resent a  suit  as  well  as  a  whole  one,  and  there  is  no  harm  in 
saving  even  that  nuich  tissue  paper.     Indeed,  they  have  an 
idea  that  they  can  cheat  the  gods  ;  and  so  we  heard,  the  other 
day,  of  a  little  girl  that  had  a  boy's  name,  and  the  mother 
said   in  explanation,  "You  know  the  gods  don't  like  little 
girls,  and  so  we  want  tliein  to  think  this  is  a  little  boy,  and 


334 


I.ARCr.R   Ol  -I LOOKS  OX  M/SSIOXANV  I.AXJhS. 


they  won't  know  the  difference."     Poor,  groping  heathenism, 
—strange  they  will  not  consider  ! 

As  we  afterwards  passed  more  leisurely  through  the  nar- 
row streets,   we  had  a  hetter  chance  to  see  the  shops  and 

stores.      Some 
of     them    are 
rather  fine, 
with    a    good 
deal  of  costly 
carving       and 
gilding.     They 
are  all  on  the 
same     pattern 
witli  a  counter 
on  one  side  and 
a  set  of  nicely- 
carved  seats  or 
benches  on  the 
other  side  for 
the  customers 
to    sit    down ; 
for  bargaining 
is   a    leisurely 
business  in 
China,  and  the 
merchant  wall 
take     any    a- 
mount  of  trou- 

STREET  IN  CANTON. 


KHJl-'.'i.-J-'i'fflfJH' J'  'J'  'Ml 


■««!eu"«'!JLiij!i».  m- 1-"' 


)  1?^, i»l-  JjL-  - j.^;b J-":^. 'i! ,-.,■  J  l}.i ^ 


.A.XDS. 

f  lieatheuism, 

•ough  the  nar- 
lio  shops  and 
itores.      Some 
)f     them    are 
rather  fine, 
tvith    a    good 
Seal  of  costly- 
carving       and 
gilding.     They 
are  all  on  the 
same     pattern 
with  a  counter 
on  one  side  and 
a  set  of  nicely- 
carved  seats  or 
benches  on  the 
other  side  for 
the  customei-s 
to    sit    down ; 
for  bargaining 
is   a    leisurely 
business   in 
China,  and  the 
merchant  will 
take     any    a- 
mount  of  trou- 


LADV  EMBROIOERINQ. 


Kipiociiiclioii  Inini  m  Chinese  I'aiiUitijj. 


■^ir' 


w 

m 


.inn  I  mmmmm 


j'lh'ST  fMPh'/<ss/o.\s  oi'  SOI  7/ //■:/.■  \  C/I/X.t. 


335 


1,1«'  for  you,  and  kUkIIv  show  you  all  \w  has,  whctlu'r  you  pur 
.haso  auythiMK  <»i'  "«)t.  Th(>  class  of  goods  to  he  soon  is  very 
ordinaiy  and  exceedingly  monotonous.  There  is  little  of  the 
ex(iuisite  fancy  work  and  infinite  variety  of  novel,  ingenious 
and  attractive  things  to  ho  seen  in  a  Japanese  store.  One 
can  walk  the  streets  for  hours,  in  Canton,  without  s<>eing 
anything  that  he  c-ares  to  huy,  even  as  a  novelty.  The  Chinese 
mind  is  intensely  practical  and  rather  common  place.  Their 
finest  work  is  emhroidery  and  silk  weaving. 

We  went  through  one  of  i\w  silk  factories.  We  saw  the 
whole  i)roit'ss,  from  the  spinning  of  the  silk  thread  to  the 
completion  of  the  weh.  Every  part  of  it  was  hy  liund,  and 
our  surprise  was  to  see  the  heautiful  and  perfect  work  that 
came  out  of  such  crude  machinery.  The  hand  looms  are 
very  simple,  hut  the  work  was  perfect,  and  the  long  pieces 
of  pure  white  silk  shone  with  almost  metallic  splendor.  We 
asked  the  j.rice,  and  found  it  was  sold  wholesale  at  thirty 
cents  a  Chinese  foot,  which  would  he  less  than  fifty  cents  a 
yard  in  English  measure  and  money.  The  silkworms  are 
produced  in  great  quantities  in  the  silk  country,  which  is  only 
a  few  miles  southwest  of  Canton,  and  is  the  wealthiest  and 
most  anti-foreign  district  of  the  Province. 

The  fan  palm  country  is  adjoining,  and  myriads  of  fans 
are  also  to  he  seen  in  the  stores  of  the  dealers  ;  for  everyhody 
here  deals  in  specialities,  and  you  have  to  go  to  one  store  to 
get  your  paper,  another  to  get  your  ink  and  pens,  and  a  third 
to  get  your  books.  The  writing  is  all  done  with  a  camel's 
hair  brush,  on  rice  paper  and  with  India  ink,  made  in  long 


■iflf 


336 


L.IRCr.R  OfTLOOKS  iK\  .VfSSfOX.IRV  L.IXDS. 


In  I. 


i  il 


Sticks  like  scaling  wax.  There  is  also  much  lacquer  work  to 
be  seen,  and  a  great  deal  of  jade-stone  jewelry,  which  is  the 
national  ornament  and  very  costly,  singl.^  sets  selling  for 
hundreds  of  dollars,  hut  showing  little  artistic  beauty  Tlu; 
comnsh.ns  are  very  numerous,  and  men  who  can  altord  it 
payimm.  use  sums  for  aconiuof  certain  kiudsof  wcod  which 
are  especially  "lucky." 

But  the  restaurants  and  butcher  shops  are  the  most 
characteristic.  Here  we  find  all  numner  of  creatures,  dead 
and  alive.  Here  are  fish  ana  creeping  things  for  sale,  junks 
of  pork  and  other  kinds  of  meat,  live  rats  hanging  by  the  tail, 
and  here  are  the  cats  and  dogs  we  met  on  our  j(jurney,-  all 
ready  for  lunch.  The  black  cat  is  a  special  luxuiy.  And 
there  is  one  restaurant  where  they  keep  nothing  else,  and 
where  you  can  see  on  the  signboard  this  tempting  bill  of 
fare:  ''Nice,  pure,  black  cat  always  ready  inside."  The 
signs  are  great,' long  boards,  hanging  down  perpendicularly 
from  the  second  story  in  front  of  the  stores,  with  great  red 
characters  running  down  in  columns,  proclaiming  the  adver- 
tisement of  the  goods  inside.  These  hang  so  thick  along  the 
narrow  street  that  you  can  scarcely  see  anything  else  as  you 

pass  along. 

We  spent  a  day  in  a  country  village  up  the  river,  and  saw 
something  of  the  raral  or  village  life  of  the  people.  A  small 
party  of  us  got  a  boat,  and  up  the  interminable  creeks  and 
^•^nals  they  rowed  us  until  we  were  quite  out  into  the  coun- 
tiy.  Southern  China  is  the  city  of  Venice  multiplied  by  one 
hundred.    It  is  a  collection  of  tens  of  thousands  of  cities 


II 


.IXDS. 

[•qiior  work  to 
,  whicli  is  the 
t^H  selling  for 
beauty-  Tho 
can  altoi'd  it 
lit  wcod  which 

are  tho  most 
features,  dead 
'or  sale,  junks 
in^  by  the  tail, 
•  journey,-  all 
luxury.  And 
hing  else,  and 
nipting  bill  of 
inside."  The 
lerpendicularly 
with  great  red 
ling  the  adver- 
hick  along  the 
ng  else  as  you 

)  river,  and  saw 
ople.  A  small 
ible  creeks  and 
into  tho  coun- 
ultiplied  by  one 
.sands  of  cities 


/••/A'.s /•  /.I// 'A7;.s.s7( >\s  ( >/■  .sv >/  ■/■///■•  A'A'  <  /f/\. I.        337 

towns  and  villages,  all  built  on  tlie  water.  Creeks  and  cnnals 
run  everywhere.  Kven  as  you  sail  up  and  down  the  great 
river,  you  can  see  boat-sails  all  over  the  country,  windingabout 
among  tho  network  of  wateiy  j)a.ssages  that  go  in  all  direc- 
tions.    Vou  can  reacli  almost  any  place  by  water.     We  found 


ANCIENT  BRIDGE   NEAR    CANTON. 


g" 


the  country  almost  wholly  covered  with  young  rice,  growin 
in  the  water,  and  looking  wondi-ously  beautiful  with  its  tints 
of  light,  brilliant  green.  Every  few  hundred  yards  we  came 
upon  another  village.  Th(;se  villages  have  from  five  hundred 
to  five  thousand  people  in  them,  and  tliey  form  an  almost 
continuous  city  over  the  whole  land.     There  are  no  isolated 


■"  52t=3!^  ^i?KE^-"« 


-r^ 


338 


}.AKc:r.R  orri.ooKS  ON  .vrssfox.iRV  i..i\J)S, 


houses  in  China ;  all  tlio  people  live  in  villagos,  and  g"  to  the 
tields  to  work  l.y  day,  retiu-ninK  to  the  adjoinit.K  village  at 

night. 

As  we  lauded  at  one  of  these  villages,  ahoiit  six  miles 
from  Canton,  wv.  weiv  astonished  to  find  that  wo  were  as 
strange  to  these  people  as  if  we  had  eoujo  from  another 
world.  The  children  ran  screaming  into  the  houses,  and  tho 
jnothers  were  afraid  to  let  ur.  look  inside  lest  we  should 
"  frighten  the  children  "  It  war;  evident  that  some  of  them, 
at  least,  had  never  seen  a  foreigner  before.  Soon,  however, 
they  began  to  crowd  around  us,  and  erelong  we  were  march- 
ing through  the  town  with  more  than  five  bundled  men, 
women  and  boys  i.i  our  train.  Aft<'r  we  bad  scattered  a  few 
bits  of  sugar-cane  in  the  crowd,  which  is  their  favorite  sweet, 
they  considered  us  (juitesafe,  and  perhaps  even  popular,  and 
they  showed  us  around. 

Tho  great  sight  of  this  village  was  the  duck  house.     Here 
the  ducks  are  incubated  by  artificial  heat,  and  we  saw  great 
•trays  and  boxes  full  of  thousands  of  duck  eggs  in  all  stages 
of  hatching.     When  tho  ducks  are  old  enough,  they  are  taken 
out  to  feed  in  great  flocks.     A  duck  boat  is  quite  large  and 
will  hold  numy  thousands  of  them.    They  simply  sail  up  a 
little  creek,  and  lay  a  plank  to  the  shore,  and  the  ducks  just 
march  out  at  call,  and  scatter  in  little  companies  over  tho  nee 
fields,  and  spend  the  day  in  feeding  on  all  the  bugs,  worms 
and  insects  to  be  found.     They  are  very  welcome  visitors,  for 
they  destroy  the  pests  that  injure  the  crops,  and  the  farmers 
and  ducks  are  great  friends.     When  evening  comes,  the  duck 


jMnn^iii 


mm 


y  /..t.\7>s. 

m,  aw\  go  to  the 
oinitig  villayt'  at 

about  nix  miles 
liiit  wo  wcro  as 
10  from  another 
J  houses,  and  the 

lest  we  should 
\t  some  of  them, 
Soon,  however, 
;  wo  were  march- 
e  hundred  men, 
d  sfuttercd  a  few 
if  favorite  sweet, 
(ven  popular,  and 

lick  house.  Here 
lud  we  saw  great 
;ggs  in  all  stages 
gh,  they  are  taken 
i  quite  large  and 
r  simply  sail  up  a 
nd  the  ducks  just 
anies  over  the  rice 
the  bugs,  worms 
Icome  visitors,  for 
s,  and  the  farmers 
ig  comes,  the  duck 


F//!Sr  /A/PA'/iSS/OXS  or  SOCTllF.RX  CIUXA. 


339 


shepheid  calls  in  his  flock,  and  they  come  <piacking  along  as 
sensibly  as  well-trained  slioep,  and  walk  across  the  gang- 
j»lank  to  the  ship,  and  each  Hock  knows  and  goes  to  its  own 
cabin  or  sleeping  place,  without  tlie  slight<'.st  trouble.  Tlic 
driver  has  a  ]ongwhii>,  and  they  say  tluu'e  is  great  excitement 
when  the  ducks  come  to  end)ark,  for  they  know  that  the 
tardy  ones  and  the  last  one  will  get  a  thrashing,  and  so  they 
.scramble  and  scream  to  got  in  first. 

The  first  tiling  we  saw  at  every  village  landing  was  the 
ancestral  tenijile,  or  hall,  where  worshij)  is  ivgidarly  j)aid  to 
the  i)arents  of  the  '.arious  hf>us(>holds.  Indeed,  we  found 
that  usually  each  village  belonged  to  a  single;  family,  all  being 
rt  latcil  to  one  another  and  bcariu!";  the  same  name  for  count- 
less generations.  The  village  we  landed  at  was  La,  and  all 
were  the  children  of  La  and  successive  Las,  and  so  all  assem- 
bled at  the  same  shrine  and  burned  their  tajiers  to  the  same 
ancestors.  We  went  into  the  temple  and  saluted  the  score 
or  two  of  head  men  and  others  that  were  there,  and  as  we 
looked  at  the  countless  tablets  with  the  names  of  all  their 
fathers,  we  began  to  feel  something  o.^  the  age  and  conserva- 
tism of  China. 

In  one  of  the  villages  opposite  Canton  we  went  into  a 
number  of  Chinese  flower  gardens,  and  laughed  again  and 
again  at  the  odd  sliapes  into  which  they  had  dwarfed  and 
twisted  every  sort  of  plant  and  tree.  Some  were  like  drag- 
ons, others  like  men,  women  and  gods.  Some  were  comic, 
others  religious  ;  others,  again,  beautiful  imitations  of  moun- 
tains,  valleys  and  landscapes,   with  grottos,   jiagodas  and 


hi 


-40         LARGER  Ol'TLOOk-r,  OX  MISSIOXARY  LANDS. 

houses  here  and  there  on  the  mountain  side.  But  all  were  in 
miniature.  Here  were  orange  trees  with  fruit  and  flowers, 
and  the  trees  were  less  than  a  foot  high  ;  forest  trees,  many 
years  old,  as  big  as  rose  bushes  ;  boxwood  plants  cut  to  look 
like  a  great  fat  Buddha,  or  brother  Jonathan,  tall  and  lank, 


PAVILION  NEAR  CANTON. 

with  an  umbrella  in  his  hand  and  his  hat  on  one  side  of  his 

head.  c  w     f 

In  another  village  was  a  gieat  Buddhist  temple  full  of 

lazy  priests  and  sacred  pigs  and  hens.  Here  is  a  regular  pig- 
pen with  gigantic  swine,  so  fat  that  they  can  scarcely  move, 
which  some  one  has  rescued  from  the  butcher's  hands  and 
dedicated   to   the  gods,  and   here   they  are  fed  by  all  the 


■■npaiMPi 


LANDS. 


But  all  were  in 
lit  and  flowers, 
[•est  trees,  many- 
ants  cut  to  look 
I,  tall  and  lank, 


Q  one  side  of  his 

ist  temple  full  of 
•e  is  a  regular  pig- 
an  scarcely  move, 
tcher's  hands  and 
re  fed  by  all  the 


CHINESE  TEMPLE. 


KipiiuliictiDii  Iniiii  :i  Cliim.-se  I'aiuUnj; 


ii 


FIRST  /MI'h-l-:SS/OXS  ( '/■•  SOI  T/lEh'X  CJ/IN.  I.  34  1 

pious    worshipptns  who   come,  until  their  troughs  are  run- 
ning over  with  rice  and  onions,  and  tliey  are  ready  to  die 
of  corpulence.     Here  they  live  in  peace  till  they  die  of  old 
age— worthy  types  of  the  bestial  degradation  of  blind   and 
Christless  heathenism,  or  Matthew  Arnold's  "Light  of  Asia."' 
But  the  saddest  sight  we  saw  that  day,  and  tlie  one  that 
will  live  longest  in  our  memory  as  a  sort  of  Monograph  of 
heathenism  in  its  cruel  horrors,  was  a  httle   dead  baby  girl, 
floating  with  downward  face  on  the  water  of  the  canal.     All 
around  were  hundreds  of  boats,  little  family  boats,  full  of 
men  and  women  and  children  rowing  and  paddling  about  in 
the  canal,  but  no  one  seemed  to  notice  or  care  for  her.     Not 
a  yard  away  was  the  boat  from  which,  perhaps,  she  had  fal- 
len, but  her  little  heli)less  hands  had  been  stretched  out  to 
them  in  vain,  and  her  little  cries  had  been  stilled  by  the 
waters  of  death  ere  they  resi»onded.     She  V((,s  onli/  a  girl! 
It  was  ''her  fate''  to  fall  over,  and  why  should  they  inter- 
fere ?    So  our  friends  told  us  the  Chinese  really  believed  and 
acted.     They  assured  us  that  if  we  were  to  fall  into  that 
canal,  probably  not  a  single  hand  would  be  moved  to  save  us. 
It  was  our  business,  and  why  should  they  interfere  ?    If  we 
chose  to  drown,  they  were  not  going  to  hinder  lis  ;  and  if  we 
chose  to  swim,  why— all  right. 

Indeed,  the  captain  of  our  river  steamer  told  us  that 
only  a  few  nights  ago  he  heard  a  splashing  in  the  water  near 
his  ship  as  she  lay  at  the  wharf.  There  were  mt>n  around, 
but  nobody  moved,  and  he  could  not  possibly  have  got  near 
without  going  ashore,  and  taking  ten  minutes  to  get  round 


i 


342         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


A  CANAL  IN  CANTON. 

the  pier  to  the  spot.  Next  morning  he  asked  one  of  the 
men,  who  had  been  standing  by,  and  he  said  it  was,  a  China- 
man who  had  fallen  in,  and  they  let  him  die.  It  was  his 
business,— why  should  they  interfere?  And  there,  sure 
enough,  when  the  tide  went  down,  lay  his  dead  body  in  the 
low  water,  and  the  people  came  down  all  day  to  wash  their 


— !fHE 


V  LANDS. 


isked  one  of  the 
1  it  was,  a  Chimv- 
die.  It  was  his 
^nd  there,  sure 
dead  body  in  the 
lay  to  wash  their 


hiNST  iMrRFSSioxs  OF  sorTH/:/^.\  <  II  IS  A.        343 

rice  and  fill  their  water  vessels-right  beside  him  and  no 
one  noticed  or  seemed  to  care  for  that  pooi',  lif(>lessforni  that 
died  because  there  was  none  to  help. 

And  so  our  little  baby  girl  lay  fioathig  in  the  river,  and 
no  one  lifted  her  out  or  s<.ught  for  her  a  binial  robe  <>.• 
* '  lucky  grave. '  *  There  she  would  lie  till  she  lloated  out  with 
the  tide  to  the  dt^ep  sea,  or  the  river  shore,  to  b  .evoured  by 
the  fishes  or  the  dogs.  If  she  had  been  a  little  boy,  perhaps 
more  would  have  been  done  for  her,  for  we  noticed  that  all 
the  little  boys  on  the  river-boats  had  life  preservers,  ma<le  of 
gourds,  tied  on  their  backs,  but  they  never  tie  them  on  little 
girls  and  so  she  had  to  die  because  she  was  only  a  little  gul, 
and  'to  lie,  unburied,  unpitied  and  unremembered,  because 
she  had  the  sad  lot  to  be  born  with  the  face  and  form  ot  a 
little  daughter  of  Eve  in  cruel,  heathen  China. 

Poor,  little,  dead,  Chinese  baby  girl,  speak-speak  to  the 
women  and  girls  of  Christian  lands,  as  thou  hast  spoken  to 
our  heart,  until  there  shall  be  enough  of  pity,  love  and 
power  to  reach  and  save  the  other  poor,  sad  '.vomen  and  girls 
of  China,  whose  sorrows  we  never  see  ! 

ONLY  A  LITTLE    BABY  GIRL. 

Onlya  little  baby  girl 
Deail  by  the  riverside. 
Only  a  little  Chinese  chiUl 
Drowned  in  the  lloating  tif^e. 
Over  the  boat  too  fur  she  leaned 
Watching  the  dancing  wave,— 
Over  the  brink  she  fell  and  sank, 
But  there  was  none  to  save. 


344       i-.-iR(;/:/^'  t^'v/.ooAs  o.v  Ar/ss/()x.iA'}'  r.iXDs. 


If  she  had  only  been  a  bo}', 
Tliey  would  have  heard  her  cry  ; 

But  she  wiV8  juxt  a  b»by  girl, 
And  she  was  left  to  die. 


It  was  her  fate,  i)erliai)H  they  said, 
Why  should  they  interfere  ? 

Had  she  not  always  been  a  curse  ? 
Why  should  they  keep  her  here  ? 

So  they  have  left  her  little  form, 
Floating  upon  the  wave  ; 

Hhe  was  too  young  to  have  a  sonl, 
Why  should  she  have  a  grave  ? 


Yes,  and  there's  many  another  lamb. 

Perishing  every  day. 
Thrown  by  the  road  or  the  riverside, 

Flung  to  the  beasts  of  prey. 


K'  ■' 


Is  there  a  mother's  heart  to  night. 
Clasping  her  darling  child. 

Willing  to  leave  these  helpless  lamV)s, 
Out  on  the  desert  wild  ? 


la  there  a  little  Christian  girl, 
Happy  in  love  and  home, 

Living  in  selfish  ease,  while  they 
Out  on  the  mountains  roam  ? 


Think  as  you  lie  on  your  little  cot, 
Smoothed  by  a  mother's  hand, 

Think  of  the  little  baby  girls 
Over  in  China's  land. 


.    V'l  iimwMOTii 


r..i.\DS. 


j-rr.'ST  /.yrK/:ssfo\s  of  soctn/:rx  cii/yA. 

Ask  if  there  1b  not  Hom«»thin><  more, 

Even  a  child  (lan  do  ; 
An<!  if  perhaps  In  China's  laud 

JetUB  has  need  of  yoii. 


Only  a  little  baby  girl, 
Dead  by  the  riverside. 

( )nly  a  little  Chinese  child 
Drowned  in  the  lloating  tide. 


Hut  it  has  brouglit  a  vision  vast, 
Dark  as  a  nation's  woe  ; 

O.i !  has  it  left  some  willing  heart, 
Answering  "I  will  go." 


345 


W-\ 


XIX. 

MISSIONARY  WORK  IN  SOUTHERN  CHINA. 

IT  IS  a  fact  not  generally  known  that  Southern  China  is 
a  distinct  and  once  isolated  section  of  that  grivit  Middle 

Kingdom,  and  has  only  hren  incorporated  in  it  since  the 
Second  f'enturv,  while  the  northern  i)()rtion  of  the  Empire 
lo,.k',  ba.-,k  ages  heyond  this  period.     It  is  divided  l.y  a  range 
,^f  mountains  from   the  great  provinces  of  Kweichow  and 
Hunan,    It  has  a  distinct  river  system,  wateiing  the  South- 
ern  Provinces  and  emptying  into  the  sea  hy  the  many  mouths 
of  the  Pearl  River.     And  the  language  is  (piite  distinct,  a  Can- 
tonese heing  as  unahle  to  understand  a  Mandarin-speaking 
resident  on  the  Yaugtse,  as  his  dialect  would  l.c-  miintelligible 
to  the  northern  Chinaman. 

Southern  China  properly  includes  the  provinces  of  C^uan- 

timg,  (^uangsi  and  Yunnan. 

Quantung  has  a  population  <.f  about  22,000,0.»),  Quangsi 
of  S  OOO.OOO,  and  Yunnan  of  about  3,0O(),00n.  The  latter 
province,  although  in  the  latitude  of  Southern  China,  belongs 
by  altitude,  properly,  to  the  north .  It  is  separated  by  a  lof ly 
range  of  hills  from  Quangsi.  and  sj.eaks  the  diaUict  of  the 
north-the  Mandarin  and  is  being  reached  by  missionaries 
from  the  Yangtse  rather  than  the  Pearl  River,  and  may  yet 
346 


-"s^imm^ 


CHINA. 

u^rn  CJIiina  is 
j^iciit  Middle 
ill  it  since  the 
if  th(*  Empire 
led  by  a  range 
[weichovv  and 
iig  the  South- 
many  mouths 
listinct,  a  Can- 
larin-speaking 
i  luiintelUgible 

inces  of  (.^uan- 

K),Ouo,  Quangsi 
)0.     The  latter 

China,  helongs 
rated  hy  a  lof  ly 

dialect  of  the 
by  missionaries 
!!•,  and  may  yet 


MfSSfO\.\/y'y   U'Ok'K  /V  SO/   ///I  hX  C/l/WA. 


347 


be  also  reached  from  Anam  and  Toncpiin  hy  the  new  highway 
of  commerce  which  French  enterprise  is  opening  up  through 
the  Red  Kiver  of  Toiuiuin. 

It  is,  at  ])resent,  an  almost  whoHy-nnoccni.ird  Mission 
field,  and  may  well  claim  our  most  earnest  tlu.nglit  an.l 
prayer.  Our  chief  in<|uiries,  at  present,  however,  have  liad 
to  do  with  the  two  provinces  of  (,)nantnng  and  (,)uangsi,  which 
speak  the  same  language  and  really  constitute  <.ne  geograph 
ical  section  and  one  Mission  field. 

These  two  provinces  togethcihavc  a  jiopulation  nearly  as 
large  as  Great  Britain,  and  more  llian  half  as  large  as  th.' 
United  States.  It  is  very  dense,  in  some  i-lm^es  exceeding: 
TOO  to  the  scpiare  mile.  All  the  people  live  in  towns  and  vil- 
lages, and  they  lie  so  close  together  as  almost  to  form  one 
continuous  city,  for  many  miles.  In  tlie  silk  <-ountry,  soutli 
of  Canton,  from  one  single  cluster  of  towns  and  cities,  cover- 
ing a  few  miles,  and  all  connected,  no  less  than  ;5()(),()0n 
fighting  men  could  he  furnished  for  military  duty.  The 
entire  population  must  have  nund)ered  over  a  milli. .n.  From 
one  low  hilltop  in  the  Delta  3r.o  villages  (;an  he  counted,  aver- 
aging at  least  2,(>oo  persons. 

Canton,  itself,  has  anywhere  between  one  and  two  mil- 
lion people  ;  and,  only  fifteen  miles  farther  up  the  river,  the 
city  of  Fat-Shan  has  5n(i,(iti(»  people,  and  between  the  tw.. 
cities  there  are  many  villagers.  We  went  ui)  among  these 
villages  five  or  six  miles,  in  boats,  and  they  seemed  endless. 
It  is°probable  that  within  a  limit  less  than  the  distance  from 
New  York  to  Yonkers,  there  is  a  i)opulation  in  and  around 


T^A^         l.ARCr.R   OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIOSWRY  LANDS, 

Canton  nearly  as  j^ivat  as  tlif  city  of  London,  whih^  in  many 
otlicr  parts  of  tlio  i)iovinc«*  you  still  find  tlu*  sanm  teeming 
crowds  around  other  centres. 

The  accessihility  of  this  vast  population  is  one  of  the 
peculiar  H'atures  of  this  i)art  of  the  country.  The  whole 
coiuitry  is  one  inteiininahle  network  of  rivers  and  canals, 
and  nearly  every  place  of  inipoi'tance  in  these  two  pi-ovinces 
is  citiier  on  a  river  or  else  within  a  few  hours  of  it. 

These  rivers  ai'e  traversed  hy  hoats  of  every  description. 
There  ar<>  a  few  steam  launches  ^'oin^'  regulaily  to  several 
points  in  tlu-  interior,  and  a  still  larger  numher  of  native 
"  l)assag(^  boat?,"  going  almost  everywhere  and  carrying  great 
lunnhers  of  passengers,  but  these  are  so  uncomfort  J)le  for 
Europeans  that  few  missionaries  use  them  if  they  can  go 
anv  other  way.     The  most  comfortable  way  is  to  take  your 
own  boat.     If  you  are  in  a  great  hurry  you  can  take  a  "Slip- 
per boat,"  the  "Chinese  express,"  a  boat  that  looks  just  like 
a  slipper,  and  is  propelled  by  four  strong  rowers,  and  can 
make,  under  ])ressure,  from  seven  to  ten  miles  an  hour,  it  is 
said.     If  you  wish  to  go  more  slowly  and  cheaply,  the  ordi- 
nary "sampan"  can  be  had,  with  crew,  for  about  a  dollar  a 

day. 

The  most  comfortable  boats  are  the  House  boats,  with 
acconmiodatiou  for  several  people,  where  a  missionary  party 
or  family  could  live  for  months  if  necessary,  and  preach  from 
l)lace  to  place  along  the  numerous  streams.  The  boatman 
can  be  got  for  about  twenty-five  cents  a  day,  and  the  river  is 
a  much  safer  i)lace  in  the  event  of  a  mob  than  the  land.     In- 


wmmm 


A'DS. 

lilo  ill  many 
nie  toeming 

(tne  of  the 

Tho  wliole 

and  canals, 

\ro  provinces 

it. 

description. 
y  to  several 
er  of  native 
Trying  great 
iforl  .ble  for 
they  can  go 
to  take  ycur 
akea  "SHp- 
loks  just  like 
LM's,  and  can 
xn  hour,  it  is 
[)ly,  the  ordi- 
)ut  a  dollar  a 

i  boats,  with 
nonary  party 
])reach  from 
T\w  boatman 
id  the  river  is 
he  land.     In- 


,1//.V.S7().\. //>'»■  //"A'A-  /\-.SV'/   ////  AV\    <7//.V./. 


349 


deed  the  great  n.aj..rity  ..f  those  thirty  millions  of  p.-ople 
,ould  be  evangelized,  at  least,  so  far  as  the  rapi.l  pubhcati.m 
of  the  (Jospeliscomvn.e.!.  by  passing  up  and  down  these 
stnan.s,  and  spending  a  few  days  at  ,-..h  point,  and  then 
passin-  ..n.  Of  «ourse.  this  is  not  all  that  needs  to  be  done, 
but  tlds  would  be  s..mething;  it  would  b.-  nmch,  and  the 
planting,  of  eours.-,  would  ne,..l  t..  hr  afterward  caretuUy 
watered  and  husbanded. 

Let  us  look  for  a 
moment  at  the   river 

system  of  these  prov- 
inces.    First,  we  have 

th(>  Delta  of  tho  Pearl 

Kiver.       This     begins 

about     one     hundred 

miles  from  its  mouth, 

a  little  above  Canton, 

and        spreads      o  u  t 

toward  the  sea  like  a 


A  NATIVE  BOAT. 


great  fan  about  fifty  miles  wide  at  the  wide  or  c  -  .a  end. 

This  section  is  cut  up  by  many  rivers  and  canals,  and  is 
a  re-ion  of  great  wealth,  and  containing,  literally,  scor.'s  of 
grea't  cities  and  many  millions  of  prosperous  and  enterpnsmg 
people  This  is  the  region  of  the  silkworm  a.ul  the  fan  palm  ; 
and  the  anti-foreign  feeling  is  so  strong,  that  in  many  of  the 
towns  missionaries  cannot  yet  enter.  But  the  most  avadable 
centres  have  been  already  occupied  by  the  Presbyterians  and 
others. 


350  J.AKC.r.li   OV ri.OOKS  OS  MrSSTOXANY  LAXIiS. 

Next  is  tlu'  liver  HyHtem  of  tlu*  interior.  Some  distance 
above  Canton,  tho  P.-ail  Ilivri'  begins  to  spivad  ont  into  its 
numorous  fet^bTS  or  brandies.  Tb(^  piiiieipal  of  tliese  are 
tbo  East  Kiv(M-,  ilio  Nortb  Kiver  and  tbe  West  River. 

'Pbe  P'lst  Kiverwateis  (be  country  nortli-east  of  Canton, 
and  its  valleys  are  tbiekly  populated  and  oecupied  by  some 
of  tbe  most  sucn-essful  mission  stations  in  tbe  whole  prov- 
ince. Tbe  Nortb  River  runs  down  from  tbe  mountains  tbat 
border  Hunan  and  Kweicbow,  and  it  fornis  a  waterway  for 
tbe  whole  northern  section  of  tbe  i)rovince.  The  country  at 
its  beudwattsrs  is  said  to  be  most  beautiful ;  and  tb(>  mountain 
scenery  of  IJencbow,  a  t;ity  near  its  headwaters,  is  said  by 
those  who  have  travelled  much  to  be  unequalled  by  any  iu 

the  world. 

The  West  River  is  the  longest  of  the  three,  and  drains 
tbe  most  extensive  country.  As  we  ascend  it,  we  find  it 
branching  out  into  three  great  lines,  and  sjnvading  over  the 
whole  of  West(;ru  Quantung,  and  most  of  Quangsi.  One 
branch  nms  up  north  to  Kweic;bow,  the  capital  of  Quangsi. 
Another  stretches  away  many  hundreds  of  miles  through 
Central  Quang'-i  till  it  reaches  the  mountains  of  Yunnan. 

And  another  sweeps  down  to  tbe  south  of  that  province  and 

Jlows  on     a  fine,  navigable  stream,  with  cities  and  towns  all 

along  its  shores— to  the  western  border. 

Such,   then,  is  the  i)bysical  frame  of   this  great  field. 

Along  these  water  lines  God  has  distributed  tbe  people  and 

taught  them  to  use  them  as  the  avenues  of  connnunication. 

And  along  them  the  Gospel  must  be  carried  to  their  teeming 

millions. 


J.IXDS. 

Somi^  distance 
11(1  out  into  its 
1  of  thew!  are 
River. 

ast  of  Canton, 
iipicd  by  some 
le  whole  prov- 
jountains  that 
I  waterway  for 
rho  country  at 
\  the  mountain 
ters,  is  said  by 
\\V'(\  by  any  iu 

•ee,  and  drains 
it,  we  find  it 
ading  over  the 
(^uangsi.  One 
bal  of  Quangsi. 
miles  through 
ns  of  Yunnan, 
it  province  and 
's  and  towns  all 

his  great  field, 
the  people  and 
communication. 
;o  their  teeming 


MISSIONARY  U  JA'A'  fJV  SOL'rm:A\V  (///.VA.  351 

To  a  ci'itaiii  extent  this  has  been  doiir   for  eighty-six 


years. 


Eighty  six  years  ago,  a  solitary  missionary  sailed  in  an 
Anujrican  sliip  from  New  York  to  tho  port  of  Macao,  for  tho 
j.urpose  of  preaching  tho  Gospel  to  the  Chinese.  As  ho 
started  on  his  new  and  apparently  hopeless  mission,  a  scepti 


MACAU. 


cal  \raerican  said  to  him  :  "So  you  expect  to  convert  the 
Chinese,  do  you  ? "  "  No,"  he  answered.  "  I  expect  God  to 
do  that."  That  man  was  Robert  Morrison.  He  waited 
seven  years  before  he  saw  the  first  Chinese  convert  baptized, 
and  twenty-seven  more  before  he  saw  China  opened  to  allow 
tho  preaching  uf  the  Gospel  in  Canton  and  other  ports  ;  but 
could  he  look  down  from  heaven  to-day  he  would  see  over 


352       LARGER  OrTI.OOk'S  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

G,0()(i  (converted  Clvineso  in  the  province  at  whose  gates  ho 
spent  liis  hfe,  apparently  in  vain,  and  nearly  4(t,000  more 
scattered  all  ovei-  China. 

His  work  was  foundation  work,  and  every  other  mis- 
sionary has  reaped  the  fruit.  He  translated  the  Scriptures 
into  Chinese,  and  prepared  a  dictionary  of  the  Chinese  lan- 
guage, hotli  of  which  great  works  were  the  hasis  of  all  the 
literary  work  that  has  since  improvtMl  upon  his  ditHcult  but 
valuable  b-:-ginning. 

In  1S41,  the  treaty  ports  of  China  were  thrown  open  to 
foreigners  and  missionaries,  and  inmiediately  a  number  of 
the  leading  missionary  societies  began  operations  in  Canton. 
Gradually,  during  the  past  forty  years,  these  operations  have 
been  extended  over  the  province,  until  now  there  is  a  force 
of  nearly  100  European  and  American  laborers,  nearly  200 
native  laborers,  and  over  7,000  native  Christians  in  the  prov- 
ince of  Quantung. 

In  the  extreme  northern  corner  of  the  i>rovince,  the  city 
of  Swatow  is  the  centre  of  the  work  of  the  American  Baptist 
Missionary  Union,  where  Dr.  Ashmore,  Miss  Fielde,  and 
many  others  have  been  laboring  successfully  for  many 
years.  Miss  Fielde's  work  for  women,  through  native  Bible 
women,  has  had  phenomenal  success,  and,  although  she  her- 
self has  returned  to  America,  her  work  is  still  going  on  suc- 
cessfully. 

Here,  also,  the  English  Presbyterians  have  a  good  work, 
founded  originally  by  that  apostolic  man  and  missionary, 
William  Burns,  of  Scotland,  and  still  bearing  tlie  seal  which 


%m 


ANDS. 

I  lose  gates  ho 
r  4(»,000  more 

■ry  (^th(;i'  rnis- 
tlu;  Scriptures 
3  Chinese  lan- 
isis  of  all  the 
■s  ditUcult  hut 

brown  open  to 
a  numher  of 
3ns  in  Canton, 
perations  have 
:here  is  a  force 
?rs,  nearly  200 
ns  in  the  prov- 

ivince,  the  city 
lerican  Baptist 
ss  Fielde,  and 
illy  for  many 
y\\  native  Bihle 
liovigh  she  her- 
going  on  suc- 

e  a  good  work, 

nd  missionary, 

tlie  seal  which 


Mrss/ox.ih'v  iioA'A'  /.v  so r  77/ /■: A' y  dffx.i. 


353 


his  devout  and  lofty  spirit  left  upon  it.  We  had  the  pleas- 
ure of  meeting,  in  Shanghai,  dear  Mr.  McKenzie,  one  of  their 
oldest  missionaries,  and  a  sweeter,  humhler  and  more  Christ 
hke  spirit  we  have  rarely  met  ;  and  some  of  tlie  incidents  he 
mentioned  of  the  working  of  the  Holy  Spirit  among  the 
native  people  reminded  one  of  the  df^ys  of  the  founding  of 

Christianity. 

In  Canton  and  vicinity  the  strongest  force  of  workers  is 
connected  with  the  Presbyterian  Mission,  whi(  ;.  is  well-organ- 
ized and  manned,  so  far,  at  least,  as  the  forces  at  its  com- 
mand will  allow.     The  venerable  Dr.  Happer  is  now  in  Amer- 
ica, but  he  has  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  large  endowment  for 
the  Chinese  Christian  College  which  is  in  contemplation  for 
the  higher  education  of  Christian  boys.     Dr.   Henry  is  the 
best  known  of  the  workers  in  the  field,  and  his  two  remark- 
able books,  "The  Cross  and  the  Dragon,"  and  "Lingnau" 
(among  the  very  best  of  the  many  volumes  we  have  read  in 
China),  not  only  give  a  most  clear  and  vivid  view  of  Southern 
China  and  its  Mission  work,  but  also  afford  a  striking  glimpse 
of  the  aggressive  spirit  and  missionary  labors  of  the  man. 
His  work  is  entirely  evangelistic  and  ini&oionary,  and  i:i  the 
course  of  his  intensely  active  life  he  has  penetrated  almost 
all  portions  of  the  province,  and  explored  and  opened  to  the 
world  the  interesting  island  of  Hainan,  which  is  now  tha 
scene  of  one  of  their  most  successful  Missions. 

Mr.  Fulton  is  also  engaged  chiefly  in  itinerant,  evangel- 
istic work  in  his  missionary  boat.  He  spends  weeks  along 
the  rivers  of  the  interior,  and  has  had  the  honor,  we  believe> 


' 


■I 


3S4  LARCHK   Orri.OOKS  Oy  MrSSlOXARV  LANDS. 

of  being  driven  out  of  the  West  River  country,  wliich  we 
have  ah-eady  refarred  to  as  the  field  our  workers  hope  to  oc- 
cupy. In  this  department  of  missionary  work  there  are 
several  chapels  in  Canton,  and  elsewhere,  where  daily  evan- 
gelistic services  are  held,  and  the  floating  crowd  ever  surg- 
ing by,  drop  in,  one  by  one, 
to  hear  the  Gospel. 

No  man  ever  had  a  more 
honored  and  successful  min- 
istry in  this  connection  than 
Mr.  Preston,  of  Canton,  who 
for  more  thai,  a  quarter  of  a 
century   preached  from  day 
to  day,  in  this  great  city,  and 
was  permitted  to  sow  seeds  in 
tens  of  thousands  of  hearts  as 
they  passed  by  from  all  parts 
of     the    country,     many    of 
whom  have  since,  from  time 
to  time,  come  out  into  full 
confession,  and  told  how  they 
received    their    first    impres- 
sions through  his  words.     He    is  now  in  a  better  world, 
but  we  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  his  daughter,  who  is  the 
wife  of  a  missionary  in  Canton,  and  is  still  carrying  on  his 
good  work.     Her  husband,  Mr.  Wiesner,  is  in  charge  of  the 
Boys'  School,  which  we  visited,  and  which  is  the  nucleus  of 
the  Chinese  Christian  College  about  to  be  established  or  i-e- 


CHINESE  SHOEMAKER. 
Reproduced  frota  a  Chiuese  Painting. 


ii    :!(Hil 


r  LANDS. 

ntiy,  wliich  we 
;ers  hope  to  oc- 
work  there  are 
here  daily  evan- 
rowd  ever  surg- 


"11 


E SHOEMAKER. 

)ta  a  Chinese  Painting. 

L  a  better  world, 
ighter,  who  is  the 
ill  carrying  ou  his 
8  in  charge  of  the 
1  is  the  nucleus  of 
3  established  or  i-e- 


MISSIOXARV  U'ORh:  /.V  SOCTHERy  CHINA. 


355 


modelled.  Rev.  Dr.  Noyes  is  the  Superintendent  of  the  The- 
ological Seminary  where  a  number  of  Chinese  are  preparing 
for  the  ministry. 

There  is  a  very  well  organized  hospital  and  medical  work 
in  connection  Avith  this  Mission,  under  the  charge  of  Dr. 
Kerr  (now  in  America),  Dr.  Swan  and  Dr.  Niles.  Through 
the  extreme  kindness  and  hospitality  of  Dr.  Swan  and  the 
other  workers,  we  saw  much  of  the  work,  and  have  reason  to 
believe  that  great  numbers  of  the  natives  are  reached  and  in^ 
terested  in  the  Gospel  while  coming  in  touch  with  the  hos- 
pital. 

Tens  of  thousands  of  persons  visit  the  hospital  every 
year,  and  while  waiting  for  treatment  as  out-patients,  or  re- 
maining under  treatment  in  it,  they  always  hear  the  Gospel, 
and  more  or  less  impression  is  made  upon  them.     As  they 
return  to  their  homes  they  have  a  grateful  and  friendly  feel- 
ing toward  the  missionaries,  and  are  used  by  God  to  open 
doors  in  th.    c  -,.  lor.    The  Presbyterians  have  a  strong  medi- 
cal work,  wuich,  we  believe,  they  are  honestly  using  as  a 
handmaid  and  auxihary  to  direct  missionary  work,  and  we 
have  not  met  a  more  true  or  earnest  missionary  spirit  than 
Dr.  Swan,  the  gifted  head,  at  present,  of  the  Canton  Hospital ; 
but  we  are  sure  that  he  and  others  feel  that  the  greatest  need 
to-day  is  more  time  and  men  to  do  the  direct  missionary  and 
evangelizing  work  for  which  the  other  is  merely  preparatory, 
and  without  which  it  would  only  be  simply  a  waste  of  time 
and  a  perversion  of  money,  which  is  given  not  for  scientific  or 
humane,  but  directly  missionary  purposes.     We  believe  that 


i!"*!! 


356         LARGER  orri.OOh'S  O.V  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

there  is  opportunity  in  Southern  China  for  some  medical  mis- 
sionary work,  but  we  are  sure  that  even  the  medical  mission- 
aries recognize  the  necessity  for  direct  evangeUzation  as  par- 
amount. 

Among  the  many  whom  it  was  a  great  joy  to  meet,  and 
whom  wo  cannot  stop  to  name,  was  Dr.  Ceattie,  of  Toronto, 
and  his  dear  wife,  who  were  about  to  open  a  new  station  in 
the  western  part  of  the  province,  south  of  Canton,  and  who 
are  well  known  to  many  of  our  dear  students  and  friends 
from  Toronto,  and  are  in  full  sympathy  with  our  work. 

We  had  the  opportunity  of  visiting  the  Girls'  School,  un- 
der Miss  Cutler  and  Miss  Lewis,  and  seeing  some  of  the  little 
Chinese  women  of  the  future.  Over  a  hundred  bright  girls 
are  here  preparing  to  be  native  Bible  women,  wives  of  native 
preachers,  and  the  wives  and  mothers  of  the  native  Christians 
in  their  various  callings. 

A  certain  amount  of  educational  work  seems  to  be  neces- 
sary, as  the  native  schools  compel  their  i)upils  to  learn  and 
practice  heathenism,  but  the  aim  of  the  missionary  church 
will  have  to  be,  as  soon  as  possible,  to  lay  this  upon  the 
native  Christians  themselves,  and  not  require  the  home  church 
to  maintain  in  China  an  expensive  and  gratuitous  system  of 
secular  schools.     This  the  Karens  have  already  done  in  Bur- 
mah,  and  this  the  Southern  Baptists  have,  in  a  measure,  done 
in  Canton,  where  they  have  a  boys'  school  for  the  higher 
education  of  native  Christians,  initiated  and  carried  on  by  the 
native  Christians  themselves,  aided  by  the  missionaries,  and 
working  successfully. 


'  LANDS. 

lie  modical  niis- 
ncdical  niission- 
elization  as  par- 

oy  to  meet,  and 
;tio,  of  Toronto, 
a  new  station  in 
Canton,  and  who 
ents  and  friends 
1  our  work. 
Hrls'  School,  un- 
lonie  of  the  little 
idrcd  bright  girls. 
,  wives  of  native 
native  Christians 

aenis  to  be  neces- 
jpils  to  learn  and 
lissionary  church 
ay  this  upon  the 
)  the  home  church 
tuitous  system  of 
jady  done  in  Bur- 
a  a  measure,  done 
lol  for  the  higher 
carried  on  by  the 
missionaries,  and 


jV/ss/ox.ia')'  iroA'A'  /.y  sorri/Ek'S  c//fx.i. 


357 


Time  and  space  will  Jiot  allow  us  to  follow  our  Presby- 
terian brethren   through  their  interesting  work  down  the 
Delta  and  uj)  the  North  Kiver  to  Lienchow.     We  met  several 
of  their  native  pastors,  and  attended  one  of  their  native  ser- 
vices,  on  Sabbath  morning,   conducted  by  a  brother,  who 
came  to  Canton  from  among  the  Chinese  in  California.     The 
men  sat  on  one  side  and  the  women  on  the  other,  with  a  high 
board  i)artition  between,  which  Chinese  etiquette  requires. 
Had  not  this  wall  been  there  the  same  rigid  eticpiette  would 
have  prevented  the  men  or  women  being  allowed  even  to 
look  across  at  eacli  other.     This  is  one  of  tlie  things  that  our 
young  missionaries  are  slow  to  realize,  and  sometimes  try  to 
ignore  and  disregard  ;  but  the  free  intercourse  of  the  sexes, 
as  it  would  be  innocently  regarded  with  us,  is  impossible 
here  not  only  among  the  natives,  hut  also  the  nxissionaries. 
The  time  will  doubtless  come,  when  the  native    Christian 
-community  will  be  strong  enough  to  establish  more  simple 
and  natural  habits  and  customs  ;  but,  at  present,  it  would  be 
an  unwise  struggle  with  long-established  customs,  and  would 
turn  the  thoughts  of  the  people  to  a  mere  side  issue,  and 
awaken  prejudices  and  suspicions  which  we  may  easily  avoid 
by  a  little  prudence  and  self-denial. 

We  saw  in  the  Canton  Hospital  a  specimen  of  foot-bind- 
ing. The  patient  had  come  for  treatment,  and  was  sulTering 
from  her  feet.  She  was  very  unwilling  to  let  us  see  them, 
but  Dr.  Niles  kindly  insisted,  and  unbound  tlie  poor  crippled 
lumps  of  twisted  bones  and  muscles,  and  wf?  saw  the  cruel 
mutilation  which  every  Chinese  woman  who  expects  to  be 


358 


/,./av;/;a'  ory/.ooAS  ox  .i//.v.s7rJ.v./A'>- /../.v/^.v. 


fashionable  must  endure.  There  is  nothing'  more  sad  than  to 
see  the  poor  laboring  women  who  have  submitted  to  this 
cruel  custom,  in  their  <hildhood,  in  the  hope,  no  doubt,  of 
h.'inK  ladies,  hut  who  have  now  to  toil  for  a  living  and  drag 
themselves  about  on  these  stumps  of  mutilated  feet.  We 
were  glad  to  see  that  many  of  the  humble  and  laboring  classes 
do  not  require  their  children  to  undergo  this  outrage,  but 
they  are  able  to  run  about  on  sound  limbs  and  enjoy  their  life 

in  freedom. 

We  also  had  the  privile}?e  of  meeting  the  principal  work- 
ers of  the  Southern  Baptist  Mission.     Dr.  Graves,  the  vener- 
able father  of  the  Mission,  who  has  grown  gray  in  its  ser- 
vice, was  most  kind  and  courteous,  and  with  characteristic 
Southern  politeness  offered  us  all  the  assistance  in  his  power, 
an  offer  which  we  value  very  highly  as  we  expect  to  labor  m 
the  field  where  they  alone  have  obtained  a  footing.     We  also 
met  Mr.  McCloy,  who  had  just  returned  from  the  West  River 
and  the  borders  of  Quangsi,  and  brought  a  good  deal  of  en- 
couragement ;  and  ha<l  nmch  pleasant  Christian  fellowship 
with  other  members    of  this  thoroughly  efficient  Mission, 
which  has  a  high  record  in  Southern  China. 

The  American  Board,  the  English  Wesleyans,  the  Lon- 
don Missionary  Society  and  the  American  Swedes  are  also 
laboring  in  Canton  and  vicinity,  and  we  had  the  privilege  of 
meeting  their  workers  and  knowing  something  of  their  work. 
The  Church  Missionary  Society  has  a  few  laborers  in  Quan- 
tung.  They  have  two  missionaries  at  Pakoi,  an  open  Cus- 
tom's Port  in  the  southern  cormn-  of  the  province,  and  have 


Ml 


'  /..Ly/)s. 

lore  sad  thun  to 
ibinitted  to  this 
le,  no  doubt,  of 
living  and  drag 
lated  feet.  We 
.  laboring  classes 
[lis  outrage,  but 
d  enjoy  their  life 

;  principal  work- 
■aves,  the  vener- 
gray  in  its  ser- 
th  characteristic 
ace  in  his  power, 
xpect  to  labor  in 
aoting.     We  also 
i\  the  West  Kiver 
good  deal  of  en- 
•istian  fellowship 
efticient  Mission, 

sleyans,  the  Lon- 
Swodes  are  also 
d  the  privilege  of 
ing  of  their  work, 
laborers  in  Quan- 
koi,  an  open  Cus- 
rovince,  and  have 


teen  trying  from  tins  point  to  enter  Quangsi  for  many  years. 
We  met  good  Bishop  Burdon,  of  Hong  Kong,  and  were  much 
touched  by  the  heartiness  of  the  good  bishop  and  his  desire  to 
encourage  any  movement  to  reach  that  province  on  which 
his  heart  has  long  been  set.  He  told  us  that  he  himself  had 
taken  the  tour  which  onr  missionary  is  about  to  take  up  tlie 
West  Kiver  through  t^iangsi  overland  to  the  coast,  and 
found  it  open.  It  is  beautiful  how  we  find  that  on  the  great 
field  our  small  denominational  differences  melt  away,  and  all 
hearts  are  one  in  the  desire  to  meet  the  awful  need  of  a  lost 

world. 

The  Continential  Societies  are  also  laboring  in  Quantung. 
The  Rhenish,  the  Berlin  and  the  Basel  Mission  are  all  repre- 
sented     The  latter  has  a  long  chain  of  stations  up  the  East 
River,  and  is  said  to  have  an  ideal  Mission  work.     Tliey  have 
avoided  the  great  cities  and  have  planted  their  stations  m  the 
villages,  and  have  a  compact  and  well  organized  work  cover- 
ing a  large  chain  of  villages  in  Northern  Quantung.     Our 
time  would  not  allow  us  to  go  up  to  see  them,  but  we  heard 
on  every  side  of  the  wisdom  and  efficiency  of  then-  work.  We 
found  the  same  reports  of  their  great   work  in  Southern 
India       These  Continental  people  have  a  patience,  a  thought- 
fullness  and  practical  wisdom,  as  well  as  faith,  which  we 
may  well  study  and  enudate. 

We  had  some  service  in  Canton.  On  tl;e  uight  of  our 
arrival  we  found  a  most  intererting  body  of  young  men  as- 
sembled in  Mr.  Reeves'  parlors,  gathered  from  tlie  Custom 
House  workers  in  the  city,  and  we  spoke  to  them  in  the  vlas- 


360 


i.ARcr.R  oi-n.ooKs  ox  mssrox.iA'r  /..ixns. 


t('i"s  nariKN  and  believe  tliere  was  blessing.  On  Sabbatb  wo 
had  two  services.  In  the  (evening  one  was  in  the  I'resbyterian 
Compound,  and  tlu'  missionaries  of  all  denominations  Avere 
pi-esent.  and  God  was  pleased  to  bless  the  service  to  many 
hearts  in  a  deeper  baptism  of  the  Holy  Ghost.  Even  mission- 
aries need  to  be  (piickened  and  consecrated,  and  we  have  never 
met  hungri(>r  hearts,  <>i-  mon;  open  doors,  than  among  the 
missionaries  abroad.  We  had  the  i)rivilege  of  meeting  about 
forty  of  the  workers  in  Canton,  and  deem  it  a  great  i)iivilege 
to  know  these  dcnir  standard-bearers  and  be  counted  as  fel- 
low workers  with  them. 

Our  own  work,  we  need  hardly  say,  had  only  begun,  but 
already,  through  the  modest  worth  and  wisdom  of  our  dear 
workers,  it  had  become  established  in  the  atf ection  and  con- 
fidence of  other  nnssionaries.  We  believe  the  time  has  come 
when  we  may  send  ai)artyof  workers  to  reinforce  our  friends 
in  Southern  China.  Tbey  went  to  this  part  of  the  Empire 
chiefly  to  see  what  openings  there  were  still  unoccupied  in 
this  oldest  of  the  China  Mission  fields.  But  they  found  such 
destitution  and  need  that  we  could  easily  employ  hundreds 

(jf  laborers. 

After  nmch  careful  and  prayerful  inquiry,  we  believe  the 
Master  would  have  our  AlHance  endeavoi'  to  occupy  the  neg- 
lected i)rovince  of  (^uangsi.  It  lies  just  west  of  Quantung. 
It  has  a  population  of  eight  millions  of  people,  and,  with  th«^ 
exception  of  one  or  two  little  stations,  recently  planted  by 
the  Southern  Baptists  on  the  West  River,  is  entirely  unoccu- 
pied.    The  Presbyterians  attempted  to  occupy  it  a  few  years 


y..'liL. 


/..i.yps. 

)n  Saljbiitli  wo 

icl'resbytfrian 

iiinutions  were 

rvice  to  many 

Even  niission- 

vve  have  never 

lan  among  the 

meeting  ahont 

great  ]>rivilege 

counted  as  fel- 

)uly  begun,  but 
3m  of  our  dear 
ction  and  con- 
!  time  lias  come 
orce  our  friends 
of  the  Empire 
unoccupied  in 
hey  found  sncli 
iploy  hundreds 

,  we  beheve  (lie 
3ccui)y  the  neg- 
t  of  Quantung. 
e,  and,  with  tlie 
iitly  ])lanted  by 
entirely  unoccu- 
ly  it  a  few  years 


M/ss/ox.iAT  ;/'(M'A'/.v  .s< >/•/■///; A'.v  <7//Av;.        361 

ag(..  l)ut  were  driv(>n  out;  but  tli.>  Baptists  persevered,  and 
have  a  small  but  solid  footing,  and  rei)()rt  that  the  pe(»ple 
have  beanne  more  friendly  ;  and  now  the  Presbyterian 
brethren,  we  believe,  regret  that  they  hav(^  not  the  force  to 
occupy  it  at  ])resent. 

This  is  siu'ely  the  "regions  bt^yond  "  of  Southern  China. 
With  (me  exception— Hunan— it  is  the  most  unoccupied  and 
destitute  field  in  the  Empir(>.  T..  reach  it  is  an  .uubition 
worthy  of  the  bravest  heart.  To  claim  its  eight  millions  for 
Christ  w^ould  be  to  our  hearts  an  inspiriug  hope  if  we  were 
ourselves  free  to  go.  Most  of  its  people  live  along  the  shores 
of  the  great  river  that  flows  past  Canton,  and  its  various 
tributaries  and  headwaters.  Every  pai-t  of  it  can  be  easily 
approached  from  Canton  by  boat. 

A  party,  if  need  be,  could  live  in  a  boat  for  months  and 
evangelize  along  the  river  shore.  We  wish  there  was  a  score 
of  siuai  (lospid  boats  along  the  rivers  of  guangsi,  and  we  be- 
lieve there  will  be,  ere  long— at  least,  we  hojie  there  will  be- 
at least  half  a  score  of  i)ioiieers  ready  to  go  before  the  close 
of  the  year  and  take  this  region  for  Christ. 

But  let  no  one  think  that  this  is  a  work  that  can  be  done 
by  inexperienced  enthusiasm.  No  held  so  much  iuhkIs  the 
best  men  as  this.  A  false  step  in  China  may  easily  pi'ove 
fatal  to  all  the  work.  China  is  not  India,  a  land  all  open  to 
the  (lospel,  and  a  people  who  meekly  give  place  to  the  Eng- 
lishman. In  China  you  are  the  inferior,  and  you  enter  and 
stay  only  on  sufferance.  Undoubtedly,  the  secret  purpose  of 
the  Chinese  nation  is,  as  soon  as  they  can  afford  it,  and  can 
manage  it,  to  get  rid  of  the  foreigner. 


362 


LARCER  orri.OOK^  ox  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


You  cannot  ko  where  you  like  or  .lo  as  you  pleaso  l>.«rr. 
You  ran  do  nothinj,' without  their  goo.l  will  aiul  confidence. 
Every  sl.'p  you  take  you  will  I.e  watched  hy  a  suspicious 
crowd.    They  cannot  holieve  that  you  have  conu^  then^  with- 
out some  selfish  and  mt  r.^enary  motive.    If  you  go  otT  alone, 
it  is  ivported  that  yov.  have  gone  o(T  to  find  some  fal.l.'d 
golden  pig  that  is  concealed  in  a  cave  in  the  valley,  and  that 
you  are  carrying  <.«'  the  good  fortune  of  the  place  with  you. 
If  you  put  up  a  Chapel,  you  are  sure  to  get  some  corner  of 
it  wrong,  so  that  it  hinders  the  progress  of  the  dragon  as  he 
flies  through  the  air.     In  Swatow  the  missionaries  had  to 
give  up  the  property  they  had  secured,  hecause  it  was  found, 
on  consulting  their  oracles,  that  the  land  was  located  right 
ou  the  dragon's  tail.     Only  a  few  weeks  ago,  tlu^  Baptist 
Chapel,  in  this  very  i)rovince  of  Quangsi,  was  ahout  to  be 
torn  down  because  they  said  it  was  keeping  back  the  rain  ; 
and  if  the  Christians  had  not  prayed,  and  the  Lord  sent  the 
rain  within  four  days,  the  Mission  would,  undoubtedly,  have 

bee; I  expelled. 

If  you  are  going  to  Quangsi  you  must  go  expecting,  per- 
haps,  to  be  stoned  and  driven  out  after  you  have  spent 
months  in  establishing  your  work.     What  are  you  going  to 
do  about  it  \    Why,  as  a  good  missionary  said  m  Southern 
China  lately  :  "  Just  go  back  again  and  if  they  drive  you  out 
a  second  time  go  back  once  more,  and  they  will  respect  you 
for  it."    And  when  they  see  that  you  have  decided  to  stay 
they  will  let  you  alone,  as  they  have  done  already  more  than 
once  in  the  case  of  noble,  indefatigable  men,  who  counted 
not  thci'  lives  dear  unto  themselves. 


il!  )U|t 


.mns. 

il  conlidtnice. 

a  suspicious 
\i\  tluM-o  with- 
i  go  off  aU)ii<', 

some  fabh'd 
.h?y,  and  that 
ace  with  you. 
)m('  corner  of 

dragon  as  he 
naries  had  to 

it  was  found, 

located  right 
3,  the  Baptist 
,s  about  to  be 
l)ack  the  rain  ; 

Lord  sent  the 
oubtedly,  have 

?xpe(tting,  per- 
iu  have  spent 
3  you  going  to 
id  in  Southern 
yr  drive  you  out 
ill  respect  you 
lecided  to  stay 
iady  more  than 
1,  who  counted 


If  then>  are  such  m.'u  in  Auierica  waiting  for  a  call, 
Quangsi  is  tlu-  place  for  them,  espe.-iuily  if  they  will  take  the 
Lord  to  give  them  His  wisdom,  courage  an<l  all  suftLiency. 

\ny  degree  of  talent,  capacity  and  holy  energy  will  find 
ample  scope  in  this  great  arena.  Why,  these  nussion  tields 
aro  imperial  realms,  and  the  men  and  women  that  are  now 
taking  them  for  God  will  be  the  prim-es  and  the  crowned 
ones  of  the  Coming  Kingd..m.  May  Go,l  .>pen  the  eyes  of 
Home  of  His  loved  ones  who  are  wasting  their  lives  at  home, 
<„■  oidy  getting  Go.Vs  Better  instead  of  God's  liest  for  the 
solenm,  precious  life  that  each  of  us  can  only  live  but  once  ! 


k 


XX. 

SHANGHAI  AND  ITS  MISSIONARY   WORK. 

WK   saik'd   Iroiu  Hong  Kdu-  to  Shangliai  on  "Tho 
Km  press  of  India,"  of  th(^  Canada  racific  Itailway 
Company.     She  is  on«^  of  throo  great  "Empress" 
steanisiiips,    which    are,   dou\)tless,    the    finest    in    Eastern 
Avaters,  and  only  surpassed,   perhaps,   by  the  new  Cunard 
liners,  recently  placed  on  the  Atlantic.     The  others  are  "  The 
Empress  of  CHiina"  and  "The  Empress  of  Japan."    They 
are  painted  pure  white,  and   in  contrast  with  the  black  hulls 
of  most  ocean  steamships,  present  a  most  queenly  appear 
ance  on  the  water.     The  young  Canadian  colony  has  good 
reason  to  be  proud  of  her  vessels.     We  had  expected  to  con- 
tinue our  journey  on  them  all  the  way,  at  a  later  date,  to 
Vancouver,  but  found  afterwards  that  it  would  be  necessary 
to  part  witli  our  tickets  and  leturu  from  Japan,  via  San 
Fiancisco,  in  order  to  be  home  in  time  for  the  Old  Orchard 
Convention,  of  whose  earlier  date  we  bavc^  just  heard. 

We  cannot  speak  too  highly  of  the  comfort  of  the-e 
great  steamships,  and  the  courtesy  of  their  ofiicers,  as  well 
as  the  exceptionally  high  class  of  passengers  who  usually 
l)at)onize  them.  They  make  the  voyage  from  Japan  to 
America  in  twelve  days,  and  reduce  it,  almost,  to  an  Atlantic 
passage. 

.164 


4JJ. 


/ORK. 


ini  on 


"The 
v\i\c  Kiiilway 
"Empress" 
in    Eastern 
now  Ciinard 
icrsave  "The 
I  pan."     They 
10  black  hulls 
xMily  appear 
my  lias  good 
)ected  to  con- 
lator  date,  to 
be  necessary 
pan,  via  San 
>  Old  Orchard 
J  hoard. 
I  fort  of   theie 
fticers,  as  well 
5  Avho  usually 
oni  Ja]ian  to 
to  an  Atlantic 


s/rA.\(;ir.ii  axp  its  missions RV  n'ORK. 


365 


On  the  way  we  had  the  privilege  of  meeting  the  vener- 
able Bishop  Burden,  of  Hong  Kong,  and  learning  mn.h 
from  him  about  Quang-si.  We  also  met  sonae  other  faithful 
missionaries  and  esteemed  acquaintances. 

On  the  third  morning  we  entered  the  vast  mouth  of  the 
Yan--tse  River,  and  were  soon  anchored  at  Woosung,  and  a 
little^ater,  steaming  up  the  river  in  the  launch  to  Shanghai, 

fourteen  raile^^  further  up. 

We  were  not  prepared  for  our  first  view  of  Shanghai. 
We  expected  a  foreign  settlement-a  number  of^  streets, 
banks  and  English  stores,-but  this  splendid  and  imposing 
foreign  ci.y,  stretching  for  miles  along  the  river   with  is 
parks,  gardens,  splendid  warehouses,  offices  and  hotels  quite 
took  us  by  surprise,  and  made  us  wonder  if  we  were  not  in 
Calcutta,  Rangoon  or  Bombay.     Shanghai  is,  indeed  worthy 
of  comparison  with  any  of  the  great  foreign  capitals  of  the 
East ;   and  we  found  afterwards,  as  we  often  traversed  its 
fine  Uvements,  and  passed  up  and  down  its  magmficent 
streets,  that  our  impressions  were  not  disappointed 

There  are  three  distinct  quarters,  all  succeeding  each 
other,  on  the  river  front,  viz.,  the  American,  British  and 
French,  but  the  British  is  the  most  substantial  and  imposing^ 
In  these  Concessions  most  of  the  foreigners  live,  and  most  of 
the  missionary  and  business  houses  are  erected.  Back  of 
this  lies  the  native  city,  which  has  a  population  of  about 
125  000,  densely  crowded  into  its  close  and  narrow  streets, 
very  much  like  any  other  Chinese  city.  The  foreign  popula- 
tion of  the  European  Concession  in  Shanghai  is  between 


366        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS 

4,000  and  5,000,  and  the  native  population  about  200,000  in 
the  foreign  city,  and  125,- xtO  in  the  native— or  a  total  of 
829,000  altogether.  The  trade  of  Shanghai  exceeds  $1,600,000 
annually,  and  the  actual  value  of  property  in  the  foreign 
city  is  $70,000,000. 

We  were  kindly  welcomed  and  most  hospitably  enter- 
tained by  our  dear  brother,  Mr.  Stevenson,  at  the  China 
Inland  Mission  Home,  Woosung  Road.  Here  we  met  a  num- 
ber of  the  missionaries  of  this  model  society,  and  realized 
much  of  the  spirit  of  their  work.  We  felt  very  much  at 
home  among  these  dear  young  hearts  who  reminded  us  of  our 
own  young  people  in  America  at  the  College  Home.  The 
Shanghai  Home  is  a  beautiful  and  commodious  building,  ac- 
commodating, we  should  think,  nearly  one  hundred  persons, 
and  is,  we  believe,  the  gift  of  one  of  their  own  workers. 

The  spirit  of  the  Home  is  most  hallowed.  Every  meal  is 
closed  with  prayer,  and  every  day  has  its  special  fields  for 
prayer  and  intercession.  The  Missionary  Man  is  part  of  the 
decoration  of  the  wall,  and  as  the  places  are  called  out  for 
special  prayer,  the  long  pointer  moves  along  the  map  and  all 
eyes  and  hearts  meet  over  the  place  where  some  lone  heart 
is  standing  as  a  witness  for  Christ.  The  work  of  the  China 
Inland  Mission  covers  the  whole  Empire,  and  it  is  most  in- 
spiring to  realize  the  grasp  of  China  which  God  has  given  this 
great  missionary  movement,  after  the  toils  and  trials  of  thirty 
years,  comprehending  so  many  of  the  strategic  points  of  this 
mightiest  Empire  on  the  globe. 

At  the  missionary  prayer  meeting  it  is  usual  to  read  ex- 


^^^ 


ANDS. 

mt  200,000  in 
or  a  total  of 
eds  $1,600,000 
n  the  foreign 

spitably  enter- 
at  the  China 
ve  met  a  num- 
,  and  reahzed 
very  much  at 
nded  us  of  oxu* 
3  Home.     I'he 
18  building,  ac- 
ndred  persons, 
workers. 
Every  meal  is 
ecial  fields  for 
is  part  of  the 
called  out  for 
he  map  and  all 
>me  lone  heart 
:  of  the  China 
it  is  most  in- 
d  has  given  this 
I  trials  of  thirty 
c  points  of  this 


3ual  to  read  ex- 


"1' 


CHINESE  IDOLS,   NATIVE  CITY,  SHANGHAI. 


k^ 


SHANGHAI  AND  ITS  MISSIONARY  WORK. 


367 


f 


:Mi 


ei,)smsmmmtiimiv 


tracts  from  the  letters  that  are  ever  coming  from  the  field, 
and  telling  of  the  triumphs  as  well  as  the  trials  of  the  work. 
We  are  so  glad  to  say  that  the  former  were  far  in  the  ascen- 
dent at  all  the  meetings  that  we  attended,  and  that  many  of 
the  incidents  that  were  given  from  Yunnan  and  Kwcichow, 
from  Kiangsi  and  Szchuen  of  the  things  that  had  been  hap- 
pening the  previous  week,  were  thrilling  and  truly  apostolic. 
God  is  working  to-day,  especially  in  North  China,  in  the 
hearts  of  the  Chinese,  and  especially  through  many  of  the 
native  preachers,  in  a  way  that  fills  our  hearts  with  hope 

and  joy. 

We  had  the  opportunity  of  witnessing  for  Christ  on 
Sabbath  morning  and  evening  to  large  English  audiences 
containing  many  missionaries,  and  we  were  the  recipients  of 
many  personal  kindnesses  and  courtesies.    Among  these  were 
not  a  few  old  workers  and  missionaries.    It  was  a  great  pleas- 
ure to  meet  dear  Anna  More  in  her  Presbyterian  Home,  and 
to  find  a  little  More  added  to  her  life  and  happiness,  as  well 
as  home  circle.     Her  husband.  Rev.  Mr.  Silsby,  has  an  excel- 
lent work  at  South  Gate,  Shanghai.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  Evans  are 
doing  a  good  and  useful  work  in  their  Missionary  Home  and 
Agency.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  Fitch  are  connected  with  the  Presby- 
terian Publishing  House.  Dr.  Farnham  is  in  Mission  work  in 
Shanghai.     Miss  Fannie  Smith  has  become  Mrs.  Dr.  Woods, 
and  is  up  on  the  Grand  Canal  in  her  husband's  field.     Mr. 
Ferguson,  of  Nanking,  who  was  the  host  and  friend  of  some 
of  our  early  missionaries,  was  in  Shanghai.    We  also  met  Dr. 
Corbett,  of  the  Presbyterian  Mission  in  Chefoo,  which  God 


■  UW' 


.i-A. 


368     L.ih'cF.R  or'Ji.oohs  ox  i\f/ss/ox.ih'y  /..i.\/)S. 

has  so  richly  blessi;'i,  dear  Mr.  McK<)izie,  of  Swatow,  with 
whom  we  had  hallo  ved  foUowsliip,  ami  a  good  many  whom 
we  had  previously  ksiovii  or  wnh  wltoin  we  had  some  special 
ties. 

Ou  Tuesday  afternoon  a  large  gathering,  including  most 
of  the  missionaries  in  Shanghai,  and  a  number  who  happened 
to  be  in  the  city  at  the  lime,  assenibled  in  the  chapel  of  the 
China  Ir  lind  Mis.'  ion  to  extend  to  ris  a  welcome  in  behalf  of 
our  missionary  'Aork.  This  v/as  an  unexpected  kindness, 
and  it  was  most  courteccsly  and  heartily  given.  It  was  in 
response  to  an  invitation  from  our  host  and  friend,  Mr.  Stev- 
enson, whose  kindness  wo  canno"^  too  gratefully  acknowl- 
edge. 

After  the  usual  English  cup  of  tea  and  sandwiches,  we 
were  glad  to  hav*    the  opportunity  of  explaining  the  object 
and  plan  of  our  work,  and  laying  it  upon  the  hearts  of  th'^se 
dear  workers  for  China.     There  had  been  some  misunder- 
standings, especially  in  connection  with  the  sending  out  of  so 
great  a  number  of  Swedes  at  one  time.     It  was  feared  by 
many  that  so  largo  a  number  could  not  well  be  received  and 
properly  located  at  one  time,  and  that  any  mistake  in  this 
direction  might  unfavorably  affect  missionary  work  in  other 
parts  cf  China.    As  our  readers  kuow,  we  had  already  antici- 
pated those  dangers  before  leaving  England,  and  since  our 
arrival  in  China  had   been  very  busy  arranging  the  details 
of  this  great  undertaking,  and  we  were  able  to  assure  om* 
missionary  friends   that  every  precaution  had  been  taken, 
and  still  would  be,  to  guard  against  anything  that  could 


"m^ 


Swatow,  with 
I  many  whom 
,(1  some  special 

ncluding  most 
who  liappenocl 
3  chapel  of  tho 
ne  in  behalf  of 
3ted  kindness, 
en.  It  was  in 
end,  Mr.  Stev- 
ully  acknowl- 


andwiches,  we 
ling  the  object 
hearts  of  th'^se 
)nie  misunder- 
iding  out  of  so 
was  feared  by 
)e  received  and 
nistake  in  this 
-  work  in  other 
already  antici- 
and  since  our 
ing  the  details 
)  to  assure  our 
id  been  taken, 
ling  that  could 


ip    ■,     ;    ' 


&e 


sir.ixcir.ir  AXf>  its  .v/ss/ox.ia'v  uork. 


369 


inimTil    this    work    or   i.tejuako    the  work  of  utlu-rs.     We 
were  also  glad  to  tell  our  f-iends  of  the  profound  nussionary 
movement  which  God  was  stirring  up  in  the  hearts  of  so 
many  at  home,  and  the  enlarged  hopes  lie  was  givn>g  us  of 
the  evangelization  of  China  and  the  world  in  this  g.nerat.<,n 
At  the  close  of  the  message  W(>  receivinl  a  very  kn.d  wel- 
come in  the  name  of  the  missionaries  present,  from  the  ven- 
eral.le  Dr.  Muirhead,  of  the  London  Missionary  Society,  the 
senior  missionary  in  Shanghai,  and  the  companion  and  suc- 
cessor of  Dr.  Medhurst,  and  the  early  founders  of  nnss.onary 
work  in  China.     We  were  deeply  touched  as  this  dear  old 
man  recalled  his  early  experience,  and  reminded  a  later  gen- 
eration of  the  changes  which  he  had  seen  in  China,  and  then 
welcomed  us  to  a  share  in  its  mission  work  and  told  us   hat 
it  was  the  great  mission  field  of  the  world,  and  one  which 
would  repay,  in  ahundant  measure,  all  the  efforts  expended 

""^'"it^was  a  great  privilege  to  meet  this  great  hody  of  men 
and  women  who  had  been  standing  face  to  face  with  the 
needs  of  China,  some  of  them  for  more  than  forty  years  ;  and 
we  were  encouraged  in  the  name  of  the  Christians  of  Anwica 
to  take  a  new  hold  with  them  for  the  evangelization  of  China, 
in  the  remaining  years  of  this  century.  There  was  an  attend- 
ance of  more  than  one  hundred  and  fifty,  of  whom  the  large 
proportion  were  missionaries.     We  have  been  impressed  with 
the  earnestness  of  the  missionaries  in  Shanghai,  and  their 
catholic  and  united  spirit. 

We  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  at  this  gathering,  Epis- 


■*-« 


.-sr" 


370 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS, 


copal  (li.ujnitaijos,  ni<l  Imniblo  lay  missi<  uuies  sido  by  Hide, 
Nt.rthcMii  and  Southciii  I'losbytorians,  Mitbodista  and  Bap- 
tists, and  men  of  <»ther  natncs,  all  imited  in  love  for  Christ 
and  China.  We  saw  much  in  the  ai)irit  of  the  niiHsionaries 
we  met  in  Shanghai  to  fill  us  with  Btiong  hope  for  the  pro- 
gross  of  Christianity  in  China  in  the  next  seven  years.  There 
ha»  becai  mu<'h  prayer  for  the  outpouring  of  the  Holy  (ihost, 
and  most  of  the  missionaries  wo  have  met  in  Cliina  are  look- 
ing, we  believe,  in  the  right  direction  for  the  blessing  which 
China  needs  to-day. 

Many  of  the  great   societies  are  strongly  represented  in 
Shanghai.     Here  the  China  Inland  Mission  have  their  receiv- 
ing home  and  their  Central  Offices  and  stores  for  the  enor- 
mous business  connected  with  the  directing  and  supi.iying  a 
force  of  over  five  hundrtul  missionari's  in  all  parts  of  China. 
Here,   also,  those  great   pioneer  and   auxiliary  missionary 
agencies,  the  British  aa  i  American  Biblo  Societies,  have  their 
headipxarters  for  China,  and  n  stafif  of  strong  ;  nd     levoted 
v-.rkers.     Here  tlio  old  Loi       1  Missionary  Si.<  i(>ty  has  a 
j^ood  local  work,  and  a  nun'ber  of  laborei        The  Northern 
Presbyteriu,   '^'hurch  ha-  a  number  of  lab-ters  in     hanghai, 
and  a  large  printing  and  publishing  depart  men.        Mi     .no 
luudred  employes,  under  the   superintendence  ot  our   be- 
u)ved  br<ther.  Rev.  Geo.  F.  Fitch.     The  Sort  hern  Methodists 
have  a  very  strong  work  and .    ine  edm  itional  establishment, 
under  the  care  of  Dr.  Young  Allen,  now  at  home.     The 
Church  Missionaiy  Society  's represented  !)y  Venerable  Arch- 
deacon Moule;  and  the  Prott  tant  Episc  pal  Church  of  Amer- 


)•  LANDS. 

ics  side  by  side, 
lodists  and  Bap- 
1  lovo  for  Christ 
tho  missionaries 
u>pe  for  tho  pro- 
ven years.  There 
the  Holy  Ghost, 
I  diina  aro  look- 
\i  blessing  which 

r  represented  in 
avu  t  lieir  receiv- 
es for  the  enor- 
and  supplying  a 
.  parts  of  China, 
iary  missionary 
neties,  have  their 
mg    iud    vlevoted 
•y  So<  jfity  has  a 
The  Mt)rthem 
ei-s  in  'Shanghai, 
Irnen,        *h     aie 
lemo  of  <i       'le- 
•hern  Methodists 
lal  estal>Ushment, 
at  home.     The 
Venerable  Arch- 
Church  of  Amer- 


SHAN^HAf  AA'P  ITS  MISSION  A  R  V  n'ORK.  ^^l 

ica  l.y  Vonerahle  Archdeacon  Thompson.  Tho  Southern 
Baptists,  the  American  Church  of  tl.  IMsciplos  and  the 
Seventh  1  )ay  Baptists  have  each  several  laborers  in  Shanghai. 
The  Woman's  Union  Missionary  S-  doty  of  New  York,  found- 
ed by  Mrs.  Dorenms,  has  an  excellent  h.'  pital  and  Bov.>ral 
missionaries.  There  is  a  Chinese  Tract  Society,  a  Seaman  8 
Mission,  a  Mission  for  the  ^ 

Japanese,      a       V/oman's    '  ^^^  ' 

Christian  Temperance  Un- 
ion, and  a  Christian  Vernac- 
ular  Society.      There  are 
two  Union  Churches,  with 
services    in    English,    one 
meeting  in  Masonic    Hall 
and  the  other  in  the  Union 
Church     edifice.         "  The 
Chinese  Recorder  "  is  pub- 
lished monthly  by  the  Pres- 
byterian   Tress,    and    the 
"Chinese    Messenger"  by- 
Rev.  Timothy  Richards. 

The  first  two  parties  of 
our  Swedish  Missionaiies 
had  already  arrived,  and 
through  the  wonderful 
goodness  of  God,  bad  been 
provided  for  and  coudu  t*  d 
safely  on  their  way,  wiih- 


PAOODA  NEAR  SHANGHAI. 


...-sT" 


372 


l.ARCER   orn.OOKS  OS  MISSIONARY  t.AXDS. 


out  any  w-rious  luisadveutuiv.  P.iit  l.a<l  a  largor  muuber 
come  at  i-ivHcnt,  «.f  Iwul  there  bt'cu  u  pi  -siKJct  of  srveral  ad- 
(litional  parties  c-oiuing  thin  r,.>as<)n.  it  wcmM  Iimvo  Ix^eii 
attemkd  with  nericus  (lithculty  and  inconveuience,  and 
would  have  been  theocasiou  of  miieh  concern  on  the  i>art 
of  other  missionaries. 

We  cannot  thank  Go<l  enough,  both  f..r  wliat  has  and 
what  has  not  been  done.     As  it  is,  a  body  of  forty-live  new 
missionaries,  making,  >vith  their  superintendents,  over  fifty, 
have  gone  to  Northern  Shansi,  and  are  preparing  for  nnssion- 
ary  labors  in  Northern  China,  under  the  most  hopeful  aus- 
spices.     Tins  alone  is  a  very  lar-o  body  of  missionaries,  as 
large,  perhaps,  as  the  nuniber  of  any  other  society  in  China, 
except  the  China  Inland  Mission.     Their  training  will  engage 
the  utmost  -are  and  capacity  of  their  overseers,  and  their 
nund)er  will  be  sufficient  to  occupy  very  fairly  the  large  and 
populous  district  assigned  to  them.     As  soon  as  they  shall 
have  been  properly  introduced  to  their  work  and  assigned  to 
their  stations,  and  their    uccess  shall  have  shown  the  entire 
practicability  of  the  arrangements  here,  another  party  can 
follow  them  with  the  opening  of  next  season,— a  larger  party 
if  the  circumstances  justify  it ;  and  fVo  work  can  be  indefi- 
nitely multiplied,  if  the  Lord  shall  continue  to  provide  the 
means,  agencies  and  openings. 

It  is  simply  a  debt  of  justice  and  an  obligation  of  the 
barest  courtesy  to  say  that  we  owe  very  much,  indeed,  of  the 
facility  with  which  the  transit  and  location  of  our  Swedish 
friends  has  been  effected,  to  the  kindness  and  wise  coopera- 
tion of  Rev.  W.  I.  Stevenson  and  the  China  Inland  Mission. 


LANDS. 

larger  luunber 
of  several  ad- 
ild  havo  l)(!eii 
ivt'uien<-<>,  and 
)ru  on  tho  part 

•  wliat  has  and 
forty-tivo  now 
ents,  over  fifty, 
iiig  f(ir  mission- 
st  hopeful  aus- 
niissiouaries,  as 
ociety  in  China, 
ling  will  engage 
■seers,  and  their 
y  tho  largo  and 
)n  as  they  shall 
and  assigned  to 
iiown  tho  entire 
other  party  can 
,— a  larger  party 
k  can  be  indefi- 
3  to  provide  the 

obligation  of  the 
3h,  indeed,  of  the 
of  our  Swedish 
,nd  wise  coopera- 
%  Inland  Mission. 


.^aiiiiiftywM  - 


SHANCUAI  ASn  ITS  MISSION AR  V  WO  'h  373 

Tli<"  Suporintendent  of  tho  Mission  is  Mr.  l-lniaruiel  Ols- 
sen.  Mr.  Ulssen  is  tho  son  of  a  proniin-'nt  Swedish  gentlo- 
nian,  and  has  gladly  devoted  himself  to  a  self  denying  mis- 
sionary life  for  his  Master's  sake.  He  has  bee.i  in  China  bo- 
t\v(H>n  two  and  three  years,  and  has  ac(iuired  the  language 
and  become  a((|uaint(«d  with  th(>  peoi>le.  He  is  very  nnuh 
encouraged  in  his  work,  and  already  the  Lord  has  put  His 
seal  upon  it  in  Northern  China. 

The  field  they  havu  taken  is  Northern  Shansi.  It  lies 
outside  tho  great  wall,  and  is  occupied  by  a  vast  population 
of  simple,  agricultural  i.eople,  who  are  very  kindly  disposed 
toward  them,  and  a  good  many  already  are  in(iuiring  into 

the  Gos])el. 

The  field  reaches  tho  borders  of  M(mgolia,  and  sonie  of 
them,  no  doubt,  will  be  led  of  the  Lord  to  that  great  people, 
among  whom,  there  is,  asy^t,  no  single  voice  to  tell  of  Jesus 

and  salvation. 

We  thank  God  for  the  hopeful  connnencemont  of  the 
Alliance  Mission  North  Shansi- -and  commend  it  to  God 
and  tho  prayers  of  His  i)eople. 

This  movement,  if  wisely  directed,  will  become  a  great 
blessing  to  China  and  prove  tho  beginning  of  a  wide-spread 
system^of  evangelization  on  simple  and  deeply  spiritual  linos. 

These  dear  people  have  a  simplicity  of  faith  and  capacity 
for  self.lenia],  hardship  and  endurance  which  are  much 
needed  in  China,  and  will  prove  a  most  helpful  inspiration 
foall  the  other  workers.  There  is  no  sort  of  doubt  about 
their  being  able  to  live  and  do  good  work  in  Northern  China 


if 


j^ 


374         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

for  the  modest  sum  which  they  themselves  have  proposed. 
We  feel  sure  that  both  they  and  their  leaders  are  men  and 
women  of  deep  piety,  and  filled  with  the  Holy  Ghost,  and 
that  they  will  have  the  direction  and  blessing  of  God  and  the 
constant  prayers  of  all  our  people,  and  that  ere  long  the  first 
stage  of  their  work  will  be  so  fully  established  that  the  way 
will  be  open  for  sending  them  larger  reinforcements. 


Hit 


-TS-^-i— ?    , 


T'"  ".ISfi  ' 


LANDS. 


ave  proposed, 
are  men  and 

)ly  Ghost,  and 

•f  God  and  the 
long  the  first 
that  the  way 

aents. 


XXI. 
ON  THE  YANGTSE. 

FIVE  great  rivers  compete  for    the    queenship  of  the 
waters,— the  Nile,  the  Mississippi,  the  La  Plata,  the 
Amazon  and  the  Yangtse.     Two  of  these  we  have  not 
seen,  hut  certainly  none  of  the  others  pour  such  a  volume  of 
water  to  the  sea  as  the  noble  Yangtse.     ^Xq  have  spent  three 
weeks  upon  its  hosom,  passing  up  and  down,  and  it  grows 
upon  us  day  by  day  in  its  immensity  and  impoi  Wnce.     More 
like  an  inland  sea  than  a  river,  in  many  places,  so  broad  is  its 
tide  that  our  ship  rolled  and  pitched  in  its  current  like  a  vessel 
in  the  ocean,  as  far  as  three  hundred  miles  f re  m  the  sea  ;  and 
even  at  Hankow  and  Wuchang,  six  hundred  miles  from  its 
mouth,  so  rough  were  its  waves  the  day  we  left  Hankow  that 
it  was  deemed  scarcely  safe,  one  part  of  the  day,  for  the  large 
ferry  boats  to  cross,  and  they  told  us  that  they  were  often 
upset  in  the  heavy  sea  and  swift  current.     There,  even,  it  is  p 
mile  wide,  and  the  great  tea-ships,  drawing  nearly  thirty  feet 
of  water,  were  lying  at  anchor  in  its  waters  ready  to  start  to 
London  direct  with  their  first  fresh  cargoes.     Up  and  down 
its  teeming  waters  pass  thousands  of  Chinese  boats,  ]>lying 
their  busy  trade,  and  the  ships  of  all  nations  can  be  recog- 
nized at  the  vario"  is  ports. 

375 


376       LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIOXARY  LANDS. 

Several  lines  of  fine  passenger  steamers  run  from  Shang- 
hai to  Hankow,  and  there  are  sometimes  two  or  three  daily. 
They  look  just  like  our  American  river  boats,  and  while 
owned  by  Chinese  companies,  are  run  by  European  officers. 
Above  Hankow  there  is  r(>gular  steam   navigation  several 
times  a  Aveek,  nearly  four  hundred  miles  farther  to  the  city 
of  Icliang  ;  and  above  Ichang,    the   river  is  navigable  for 
steamboats  for  six  hundred  miles  farther,  all  the  way  up  to 
Chung  King,   the  metropoHs  of  Sz-chuen  ;  but  the  Chinese 
authorities,  with  their  usual  conservatism,  have,  as  yet,  re- 
fused to  allow  the  foreigner  to  run  liis  engines  up  these  sacred 
channels.     As  a  sample  of  their  ridiculous  policy  of  obstruc- 
tion, it  is  seriously  reported  that  when  the  question  of  allow- 
ing steamers  on  the  upper  Yangtse  was  referred,  some  time 
ago,  to  the  Mandarins,  they  reported  gravely  that  it  would 
not  be  well  to  attempt  it  as  the  monkeys  in  the  gorges  of  the 
Upper  Yangtse  were  exceedingly  fierce,   and  would  throw 
stones  down  upon  the  ships  and  injure  them. 

This  part  of  the  river  is  now  ascended  by  cargo  boats, 
which  are  pulled  up  the  strong  current  by  trackers,  who  walk 
along  the  bank.  At  this  season,  when  the  current  is  strong 
and  the  river  high,  it  takes  our  missionaries  a  month  lo  go 
from  Ichang  to  Chung  King,  a  distance  which  can  be  accom- 
l^lished  down  the  river  in  two  days,  so  swift  is  the  descending 
tide.  No  wonder  they  hope  and  pray  for  the  day  when  the 
fear  of  these  dreadful  monkeys  will  be  overcome,  and  the 
whistle  of  the  engine  will  be  heard  in  the  Yangtse  gorges. 
Dur  time  woidd  only  allow  us  to  go  as  far  as  Hankow. 


■PP 


ANDS, 

11  from  Sliang- 
or  three  daily. 
its,  and  while 
opean  officers, 
gatioii  several 
ler  to  the  city 
]iaviji;able  for 
the  way  up  to 
ut  the  Chinese 
ivc,  as  yet,  re- 
Li])  these  sacred 
icy  of  ohstruc- 
jstion  of  allow- 
red,  some  time 
{ that  it  would 
le  gorges  of  the 
1  would  throw 

hy  cargo  boats, 
;kers,  who  walk 
rrent  is  strong 
a  month  lo  go 
1  can  be  accom- 
;  the  descending 
e  day  when  the 
rcome,  and  the 
Ligtse  gorges. 
Far  as  Hankow. 


OX  77 n-    VAXGTSn. 


in 


It  would  have  required  a  month  or  two  longer  to  penetrate 
the  heart  of  Sz-chuen,  and  so  we  could  only  look  upward 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Han,  and  borrow  the  eyes  of  others 
whom  we  met,  who  had  traversed  these  upper  streams  and 
explored  the  vast  interior  of  China. 


ABOVE  ICHANQ. 


Although  this  river  ])asses  through  the  most  densely- 
populated  section  of  China,  yet  there  is  little  sign  ui.on  its 
shores  of  the  teeming  myriads  that  cover  all  these  regions  as 
thickly  of  ien  as  seven  hundred  to  the  square  mile.  In  Amer- 
ica such  a  river  would  be  lined  with  bright  and  busy  towns. 
But  here  all  is  loneliness.      A  few  cities  appeal-  upon  the 


378         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

banks ;  with  some  striking  landmarks,  such  as  Wuhu,  Ku- 
kiang  and  Hankow,  with  their  foreign  houses  standing  out  in 
bold  relief ;  but  most  of  the  native  towns  are  so  low  and  flat, 
or  surrounded  with  dead  vvjills  that  are  scarcely  noticeable. 
And  so  we  passed  such  world- renowned  places  as  Nanking, 
without  anything  unusual  to  attract  our  attention,  and  Wuhu 
was  really  the  first  point  of  striking  interest,  at  which  we 
touched  and  tarried. 

The  approach  to  Wuhu  is  quite  picturesque.     A  good 
many  hills  overlook  the  town,  and  a  number  of  foreign  build- 
ings stand  out  in  bold  relief.     The  most  imposing  of  these  is 
the  Methodist  Episcopal  Mission,  on  a  high  promontory  over- 
looking the  river,  and  about  a  mile  above  the  town.    The 
British  Consulate,   the  Commissioner  of  Customs  and  the 
Eoman  Catholic  Mission  occupy  prominent  and  elevated  situ- 
ations.   Wuhu  is  a  Treaty  Port,  and  a  place  of  considerable 
commercial  importance.     It  is  said  to  have  the  largest  export, 
trade  in  rice  in  the  Empire.     The  population  is  about  100,000, 
and  it  is  altogether  a  place  of  much  more  importance  than 
we  supposed,  ra^^king  with  any  of  the  river  cities,  except 
Shanghai  or  Hankow.     It  is  the  chief  city  in  the  Province  of 
Ghanwhei,  and  its  river  system  connects  it  with  most  of  the 
inland  towns  very  easily  and  directly.     The  province  had,  be- 
fore the  rebellion,  a  population  of  about  thirty  millions,  equal 
to  one-half  the  United  States,  but  it  is  now  much  reduced.  It 
lies  north  and  south  of  the  Yangise  River,  in  a  very  central 
position,  and  is  very  thicky  settled.     Almost  all  the  land  is 
capable  of  cultivation  and  is  fully  occupied. 


LANDS. 

IS  Wuhu,  Ku- 
tanding  out  in 
)  low  and  flat, 
ely  noticeable. 
s  as  Nanking, 
ion,  and  Wuhu 
I,  at  which  we 

;que.     A  good 
foreign  build- 
Qg  of  these  is 
montory  over- 
le  town.    The 
;toms  and  the 
I  elevated  situ- 
if  considerable 
largest  export 
about  100,000, 
iportance  than 
cities,  except 
he  Province  of 
;h  most  of  the 
ovince  had,  be- 
millions,  equal 
ich  reduced.  It 
a  very  central 
all  the  land  is 


m-r~rr-"W*j'; 


3 
X 


< 

z 
g 

(0 
10 

i 


I 
o 


■\m 


ON  THE  YANGTSE. 


379 


We  found  our  dear  missionaries  at  Wuhu  waiting  for  us 
on  the  hulk  where  the  steamers  land,  and  we  had  a  joyful 
meeting  They  were  all  there  except  Miss  Murray,  who  is 
temporarily  at  Nanking,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Johnston,  who 
are  at  Tatung,  about  fifty  miles  further  up  the  river.  They 
were  all  well,  and  we  spent  two  or  three  days  with  them  m 
much  conference  and  prayer  respecting  the  work.  The  party 
at  Wuhu  consists,  at  present,  of  four  ladies  and  ten  brethren. 
They  are  hving  in  three  houses  ;  the  ladies  in  one,  and  the 
gentlemen  in  the  other  two,  in  a  sort  of  Bachelor's  Home 

style.  ,         ,  1  •    1 

While  at  Wuhu  we  were  the  recipient  ot  much  kmdness 
from  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Stuart  of  the  M.  E.  Mission.  We  also  had 
the  pleasure  of  meeting  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Longden,  of  the  same 
Mission.  Mr.  Drysdale,  of  the  China  Inland  Mission,  proved 
a  valuable  friend  in  some  important  business  transactions,  in 
which  his  Chinese  experience  was  very  generously  placed  at 

our  service. 

We  had  several  public  services,  which  were  attended  by  a 
good  many  of  the  foreign  residents,  and  we  believe  o«<^  or 
two  r-ecious  souls  were  led  to  fully  decide  for  Christ. 

We  found  our  young  men  carrying  on  a  good  work 
an  ong  the  English  and  American  oflkials  of  the  Customs 
.P  ^Ice  After  a  few  days'  stay,  we  hastened  on  up  the  river, 
intending  to  complete  our  visit  here  on  our  return.  Half  a 
dav's  sail  brought  us  to  the  pretty  town  of  Tatung,  on  the 
same  side  of  the  river.  Here  Mr.  Johnston  was  waiting  to 
welcome  us,  and  an  hour's  sail  from  the  landing,  in  a  sampan. 


380         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIOXARV  LANDS. 

brought  us  to  his  house.  Here  we  met  liis  wife  and  two 
childreu,  and  another  missionary  laboring  with  him  at  pres- 
ent, and  we  tarried  two  days  looking  over  the  field  with  him, 
and  endeavoring  to  plan  for  the  best  interests  of  the  work. 

Mr.  Johnston  left  the  Tabernacle  in  New  York  ten  years 
ago,  to  prepare  for  missionary  work,  and  about  six  years  ago 
came  to  Cliina,  in  connection  with  the  C.  I.  M.     Three  years 
ago  he  left  their  service,  and,  one  year  later,  he  joined  our 
Mission.     Tatung  seems  to  be  a  very  promising  field.     Oppo- 
site Tatung  is  an  island,  containing  a  large  city  of  nearly  'JO,- 
OOO  peoide,  and  Tatung,  itself,  has  nearly  as  many  people. 
They  are  very  friendly,  and  almost  all  seemed  to  know  Mr. 
Johnston,  and  to  look  upon  him  quite  kindly.     It  was  the 
only  place  in  China  where  even  the  dogs  did  not  once  bark  at 
us.     And  this  is  a  very  fair  sign  of  the  friendly  disposition  of 
their  masters,  and  their  familiarity  with  foreigners. 

Mr.  Johnston  has  an  excellent  native  worker,  and  carries 
on  a  constant  chapel  service  every  day  and  evening,  and  has 
some  hopeful  inquirers. 

There  seems  to  be  a  fine  opportunity  for  work  here. 
Back  of  the  town  is  a  hill  commanding  one  of  the  finest 
views  in  China,  which  would  make  a  beautiful  site  for  Mis- 
sion premises,  and  all  around  is  a  large,  unoccupied  country, 
accessible  by  the  innumerable  waterways  of  Central  China. 
Mr.  Johr  ston  has  a  fine  command  of  the  Chinese  language, 
and  gets  on  well  with  the  people. 

He  wears  the  Chinese  costume,  and  we  havo  no  doubt 
■that  this  is,  by  far,  the  best  way  for  interior  work.     In  the 


lite 


mm 


.-  liffliiro'iBjfCTffl    — 


LANDS. 

^vife  and  two 
1  him  at  pros- 
icld  with  him, 
)f  tlio  work, 
fork  ten  years 
t  six  years  ago 
Three  years 
,  he  joined  our 
y  field.     Oppo- 
r  of  nearly  20,- 
\  many  people. 
1  to  know  Mr. 
y.     It  was  the 
:)t  once  hark  at 
\f  disposition  of 
gners. 

ier,  and  carries 
'^ening,  and  has 

'or  work  here, 
e  of  the  finest 
All  site  for  Mis- 
cupied  country. 
Central  China, 
inese  language, 

havo  no  doubt 
r  work.     In  the 


ox  rnr.  vAXcrrsr.. 


38T 


treaty  ports  it  does  not  make  much  ditference,  and  we  have, 
as  yet,  no  rigid  rule  on  the  subject.    But,  in  the  interior,  it 
is,  no  doubt,  much  preferable  in  every  way.     If  there  was 
no   other   reason,  the   difference  that  it   maker,  in  the  ex- 
pense of  travelling  on  the  river  steamers  woubl  bc>  sufficient 
to  decide  the  question. 
By  wearing    this    dress 
one  can  travel  in  Chinese 
style,  which  is  not  at  all 
uncomfortable,     as    we 
can  testify  from  a  little 
experience.  You  can  got 
a  cabin  on  the  upper  deck 
by  a  little  management, 
and  a  seat  at  the  private 
table  of  the  compador  or 
Chinese    steward,     and 
thus  have  a  fair  measure 
of  privacy.    And  the  dif- 
ference in  price  is  simply 
out  of  all  proportion  to 
the  difference  in  comfort. 
A  regular  English  passenger  will  pay  about  $30  f^'om  Shang- 
hai to  Hankow,  and  the  fare  in  Chinese  cabin,  is  less  than  %,3. 
As  to  the  comfort  and  convenience  of  the  costume,  there 
is  great  disparity  of  opinion.    Our  unbiased  ju^S-ent  is  that 
most  of  those  not  wearing  this  costume  dislike  it     And  the 
great  majority  of  those  who  wear  it,  prefer  it  for  all  purposes. 


A  CHINESE  RAIN  COAT. 


,  Jl,J-,;,i,,i_4y^i-ja>i!Jy-nB»»ili!"«!«-.-" 


!jajlW!.;J.;m:'v-:.;jarfkt«!.^..fk,*w'A^ 


382         LARGER  Ol     LOOKS  ON  MISSIOXARY  LANDS. 

It  has  some  disaava.itagc  for  la<lies.  It  has  nc  provision  for 
a  covering  for  the  head,  so  needed  in  this  climate,  and  the 
umbrella  is  scarcely  >mrient.  lUit  many  now  n-ear  liats 
with  it.  The  shoes  are  also  rather  uncomfortable,  and  the 
shaving  of  tbe  head  is  an  av  kward  necessity  for  ni-ii.  But, 
upon  the  whole,  it  is  -asx ,  cemtortable,  very  gra^  etui  and 
liandsome,  cool  in  sum  <'r.  i  id  in  winter  .susceptible  of  any 
amount  of  padding  and  \.  armtli. 

We  would  not  advise  any  lady  to  go  to  China  for  interior 
work  who  is  not  prep.  1  red  <  wear  this  costume  without  ob- 
jection or  prejudice,  and  those  who  '  »  not  wear  1:  should, 
as  a  rule,  stay  in  the  older  cent  res  \  work  on  the  more 
conservative  hues  of  the  older  Mi  sions.  It  is  not,  '  'uy 
means,  contined  to  the  China  Inland  Mission,  but  is  ^'  '^y 
many  of  the  Presbyterian,  Lo.id*,  ,  and  other  missionaries 
in  their  interior  work. 

From  Tatung  we  went  on  up  the  river  to  Gangking,  the 
capital  of  the  province  of  Ghanwhei.     This  is  the  seat  of  the 
China  Inland  Receiving  Home,  where  the  gentlemen  who 
come  out  as  missionaries  remain  for  six  months  studying  the 
language,  and  getting  their  first  introduction  to  Chinese  life. 
This  home  is  under  the  care  of  Mr.  Bailer  and  wife,  and  it 
was  a  great  privilege  to  meet  these  choice  spirits,  and  td 
spend  a  day  with  them  and  nearly  twenty  of  their  students. 
It  is  needless  to  say  that  they  are  pecuharly  adapted  to  their 
work.     Mrs.  Bailer  is  a  born  mother,  and  no  young  man 
there  is  allowed  to  feel  that  he  is  far  from  home,  and  she  is 
just  as  able,  with  her  tender,  spiritual  wisdom,  to  minister  to 
their  souls  as  to  look  after  their  darning  and  their  dining. 


ON  THE  YANGTSE. 


383 


LAM>S. 

0  provision  for 
irnate,  ;ui<i  the 
ovv  ""ear  liuts 
rtabio,  and  the 
for  ni'm.  But, 
y  gra(  etui  and 
,ceptil)le  of  any 

lina  for  interior 
me  '^'ithoul  ob- 
wear  1  should, 
'k  oil  the  more 
is  not,  '  'uy 
but  is  ^'  y 

ler  missionaries 

»  Gangking,  the 
s  the  seat  of  the 
gentlemen  who 
ths  studying  the 

1  to  Chinese  life, 
and  wife,  and  it 
)  spirits,  and  tO 
f  their  students, 
adapted  to  their 

no  young  man 
home,  and  she  is 
m,  to  minister  to 
[  their  dining. 


Mr.  Bailor  la  a  tine  Chinese  scholar  and  an  experienced 
missionary,  possessing  that  peculiar  combination  of  (lualities 
which  iitH  one  to  shape  the  lives  and  characters  of  others 
without  seeming  to  control  them.  It  is  the  hand  of  iron  and 
the  touch  nf  velvet.  Such  helpers  are  a  great  boon  to  a  home, 
and  N  ahoui  them  a  hr.meisof  doubtful  value.  But  under 
such  liapnv  !'  OS  it  is  a  great  hcli)  to  a  young  missionary, 

on  i,i    fi  in  a  strange  laud,  to  have  the  privilege  of 

learniir  nguage  and  preparing  for  his  future  work  in 

such  a  . .  a  and  helpful  atmosphere.     The  first  half  year 

of  a  m,  nary's  life,  and  sometimes  the  first  week,  decides 
his  future  missionary  career,  and  gives  a  life-long  impulse  or 
check  to  all  his  life  work.  The  most  serious  mistake  any 
work  can  make,  is  to  send  single  missionaries  abroad  before 
the  work  is  piepared,  or  the  superintendence  provi.led,  with- 
out which  much  of  their  nn  vk  and  even  tb.  ir  most  ddigent 
study  is  apt  to  be  ill-directed,  and  perhaps  wasted. 

We  had  much  delightful  fellowship  and  profitable  con- 
ference with  the  friends  at  Gangking.  In  the  afternoon  we 
walked  around  the  city,  just  outside  the  walls,  and  saw  it  on 
every  side.  Nothing  so  touched  our  heart  as  the  great  field 
of  human  graves  that  stretched  away  for  miles  all  along  the 
north  side.  It  was,  indeed,  the  City  of  the  Dead.  It  seemod 
as  if  millions  must  be  sleeping  there,  and  they  all  looked  a.  if 
they  were  reproaching  us  because  we  had  let  them  die  in 
C  uristless  darkness.  It  was  the  only  part  of  China  that  we 
had  seen  without  living  people.  Many  of  these  had  been 
slain  during  the  Taiping  Rebellion.     At  that  awful  time,  of 


wmt*«'iji*«Hrj«s';*:^if'f^f%^-P:^^l^ix^^^^^?^) 


3«4 


LARGER  Orrf.OOk'S  ON  MfSSfOX.lRY  /..IX/)S. 


which  wt>  shall  speak  again,  tho  Taii)iiigs  hud  captured  tho 
city,  and  iimi(lered  all  who  would  not  accept  their  rule  and 
creed.  And  afterwards,  when  tho  IniiJerialists  reoccupitMl  it. 
they  beheaded  all  who  had  been  rebels,  so  that  between  tho 
two  lir(-s  the  poor  Chinaman  had  a  hard  chance  for  his  life. 

We  left  Gangking  at  sunset,  and  our  friends  escorted  us 
outside  tho  city  walls,  and  then  returned,  as  the  gates  had  to 
be  shut  at  night.  In  a  little  native  inn,  on  tho  river  bank,  Ave 
waited  for  our  steamer  till  three  o'clock  in  the  morning- 
alone.  It  was  a  little  taste  of  life  in  tho  interior.  It  would 
have  been  nothing  if  we  had  known  the  language.  But  we 
could  not  speak  a  word  of  Chinese,  and  they  could  not  speak 
a  word  of  English. 

But  wo  got  on  very  well  and  did  not  feel  a  touch  of  lone- 
liness or  fear.  We  had  a  single  native  Christian  with  us  and 
he  kindly  helped  us  to  i^nbark,  although  he  knew  not  a  word 
of  English.  But  his  face  shone  with  holy  intelligence.  At 
length  the  steamer  came  along  and  stopped  out  in  the  river, 
till  our  native  boat  took  us  out,  and  they  tumbled  us  and  our 
baggage  on  board  and  we  steamed  away  to  Hankow.  Our 
old  native  Christian  parted  with  us  with  much  afl\'ction. 

A  party  of  seventeen  soldiers  also  came  on  board  with  a 
poor  prisoner  in  charge,  whom  wo  went  down,  with  the  cap- 
tain, the  next  day  to  see.  He  was  a  pitiful  sight.  His  hands 
and  feet  were  chained,  and  around  his  neck  was  a  great  ox- 
chain  fastened  to  a  straight  bamboo  pole  at  his  neck.  The 
heavy  chain  crushed  his  neck.  His  posture  was  most  pain- 
ful, and  his  face  was  white  with  fear,  as  these  seventeen  sol- 


'jmMH 


"mj'  i'lipi 


'./IXDS. 


captured  tho 
tlicir  rule  :uul 
i  rcoccupieil  it, 
t  between  tlio 
a  for  liislife. 
ids  escorted  us 
10  gates  liad  to 
river  bank,  we 
tbe  morning — 
rior.     It  would 
[uaj^e.     But  we 
ould  not  speak 

I  toucli  of  lone- 
iau  with  us  and 
new  not  a  word 
itelligence.     At 
it  in  the  river, 
bled  us  and  our 
Hankow.    Our 
h  afV<'ction. 
»n  board  with  a 
n,  with  the  cap- 
ght.     His  hands 
»vas  a  great  ox- 
his  neck.    The 
was  most  pain- 
\e  seventeen  sol- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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CiHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  canadien  de  microreproductions  historiques 


'.m 


ON  THE  YANGTSE. 


385 


diers  stood  around  him  with  spears  poiuted  and  carbines 
loaded.  He  was  charged  with  being  a  member  of  the  pohti- 
cal  society  known  as  the  ^^ Ko-loa-ivhei,^''  which  is  said  to 
have  incited  the  riots  of  two  years  ago.  They  are  taking 
him  up  to  Wuchang  before  the  Viceroy,  for  trial  and  execu- 
tion, but  we  could  not  help  asking  God  somehow  to  spare  the 
poor  fellow's  life,  and  we  trust  in  eternity  to  find  that  it  was 
not  in  vain 

All  along  this  rivei-,  at  that  time,  from  Ichang  to  Nan- 
king, it  was  a  time  of  terror  and  danger.  Wuhu  was  the 
chief  centre  of  violence,  and  there  the  Roman  Catholic  build- 
ings were  destroyed  and  all  the  missionaries  compelled  to 
flee.  At  the  peaceful  little  town  of  Wusui,  near  Hankow,  an 
English  missionary,  Mr.  Argent,  was  murdered,  and  a  Cus- 
tom's officer  cut  to  pieces.  At  Wuchang  a  rising  was  ex- 
pected, and  the  foreign  gunboats  were  ready  at  a  signal  to 
shell  the  town  if  it  was  attempted,  and  a  place  upon  the 
walls  preconcerted  where  the  missionaries  should  meet  incase 
of  danger.  Very  few  people  now  believe  that  there  was  any 
political  society  back  of  these  riots,  or  anything  worse  than 
the  crookedness  and  meanness  of  ihe  Mandarins  themselves, 
who  are  said  to  hate  the  foreigners,  and,  while  professing 
friendship,  are  really  the  secret  inciters  of  many  a  disturb- 
ance and  the  greatest  obstacle  in  tho  way  of  sending  the  Gos- 
pel to  the  interior  towns. 

No  one  who  has  not  lived  in  China  can  understand  this 
official  crookedness.  The  Chinese  Mandarin  is  said  to  be  a 
man  with  a  mask.     In  the  same  city  will  be  often  seen  a 


386         LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

public  proclamation  against  foreigners  anonymously  circu- 
lated by  the  runners  of  the  Official,  and,  at  the  same  time, 
another  proclamation  signed  by  the  Official  condemning  all 
these  anonymous  proclamations,  and  declaring  that  they  are 
circulated  by  bad  and  unworthy  people.  The  former  is  to 
promote  anti-foreign  feeling,  the  latter  to  keep  up  an  appear- 
ance of  uprightness  and  good  behavior. 

At  the  same  time  we  feel  it  due  to  say  that  while  this  was 
the  general  opinion  among  the  missionaries  of  the  older  soci. 
eties  in  Central  China,  we  have  heard  some  very  different 
statements  from  the  most  experienced  workers  of  the  China 
Inland  Mission  in  the  interior.  Indeed,  they  have  assured  us, 
and  shown  us  letters  to  prove  that  often  the  Mandarins  are 
their  best  friends,  and  honestly  endeavor  to  protect  them,  and 
do  the  very  best  thing  they  can  for  them  in  the  face  of  the 
strong  anti-foreign  prejudices  of  the  scholars  and  gentry. 
Upon  the  whole,  we  have  concluded  that  the  shield  has  two 
sides,  and  both  statements  are  true,  under  varying  circum- 
stances. 

We  reached  Hankow  on  Saturday  morning,  and  spent 
"three  days  in  this  great  metropolis  of  interior  China.  It  is  a 
very  fine  city  indeed.  Its  foreign  Bund  or  settlement  is  only 
less  imposing  than  Shanghai.  The  native  city  is  three  times 
as  large,  and  much  finer  in  every  way,  while  two  other  great 
cities— Hanyang  and  Wuchang— lie  right  across  the  Han 
and  Yangtse  rivers,  whose  waters  here  meet.  The  three 
cities  together  have  over  a  million  inhabitants. 

Wuchang  is  the  capital  of  the  two  Provinces  of  Hupeh 


RY  LANDS. 

onymously  circu- 
t  the  same  time, 
il  condemning  all 
ing  that  they  are 
The  former  is  to 
eep  up  an  appear- 

hat  while  this  was 
of  the  older  soci. 
me  very  different 
•kers  of  the  China 
ly  have  assured  us, 
ihe  Mandarins  are 
protect  them,  and 
n  the  face  of  the 
olars  and  gentry, 
he  shield  has  two 
r  varying  circura- 

orning,  and  spent 
ior  China.  It  is  a 
settlement  is  only 
city  is  three  times 
ile  two  other  great 
;  across  the  Han 
meet.  The  three 
nts. 
rovinces  of  Hupeh 


H 
m 

■0 


> 

Z 

o 


IHI 


ox  THE   YASGTSE. 


387 


and  Hunan,  and  a  fine  city  of  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  million 
people.  Its  houses  are  of  a  better  class  that  any  city  we  have 
seen  in  China.  It  is  largely  inhabited  by  official  people. 
Hanyang  is  the  smallest  of  the  three,  and  lies  between  the  two , 
on  the  promontory  formed  by  the  meeting  of  the  Han  and  the 
Yangtse.  Hankow  is  the  commercial  capital,  and  has  many 
fine  streets  and  stores,— that  is,  for  China.  It  is  the  Empo- 
rium of  the  trade  of  nine  great  provinces,  containing  among 
them  two  hundred  millions  of  people.  It  is,  in  a  word,  the 
Chicago  of  China,  while  Shanghai  is  the  New  York  of  the 
Empire, 

There  are  several  strong  Missions  here  ;  the  oldest  and 
strongest  is  the  London  Society.  Rev.  Griffith  John  is  its 
oldest  and  best-known  representative.  We  had  met  him  in 
America,  and  were  sorry  to  find  that  he  was  absent  in  the 
country  on  a  tour,  but  we  received  the  greatest  kindness 
from  his  family,  and  from  all  the  other  members  of  the  Mis- 
sion. We  had  a  good  opportunity  of  seeing  their  work,  and 
a  good  and  substantial  work  it  is.  Its  methods  are  conserv- 
ative and  careful,  but  its  results  are  solid,  if  somewhat  slow. 
We  saw  two  of  their  native  congregations  on  the  Sabbath, 
and  it  was  very  inspiring  to  see  that  body  of  two  or  three 
hundred  native  Christians,  mostly  men,  and  to  remember 
that  they  had  been  gathered,  one  by  one,  from  heathenism. 

They  have  three  chapels  in  Hankow,  where  daily  services 
are  held,  and  a  few  stations  in  the  country,  in  the  vicinity. 
They  have  about  a  dozen  English  and  as  many  native  mis- 
sionaries.    This  is  the   result  of  thirty  years  of  hard  and 


388 


j.APnnm  orri.ooKS  on  missionary  lands. 


faithful  work.     When  we  asked  one  of  their  workers  about 
the  prospect  of   multiplying   their   workers,  this  was  his 
answer:     "If   our  Board  wei-e  to  send   us  seven  or  eight 
more  missionaries,  we  should  welcome  them  ;  if  they  were 
to  send  us  twenty,  we  should  not  know  what  to  do  with 
them."    This  well  represents  the  conservative  method  of 
Missions  in  its  best  and  most  successful  form.     No  wonder 
we  asked,  "  When  are  you  going  to  reach  all  the  millions  of 
China  at  this  rate?"    And  no  wonder  missionaries,  who  see 
no  larger  possibility  for  China,  are  led  to  believe  in  a  'larger 
hope,"  and  some  second  chance  for  these  lost  millions  in  a 
future  world.     Thank  God  there  is  a  better  way.     Notwith- 
standing the  wise  and  honest  convictions  of  such  honored 
workers,  we  believe  there  is  room  in  China  for  not  only 
twenty  more,  but  for  men  enough  to  occupy  all  her  centres 
of  population  before  the  close  of  the  present  centuiy.     And 
we  believe  that,  by  the  gra^^e  of  God,  it  shall  be  done. 

We  spent  some  pleasant  hours  with  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Arnold 
Foster,  of  the  London  Mission,  in  whose  home  Miss  Stowell, 
of  Boston,  once  associated  with  our  Alliance,  spent  two  years. 
We  had  one  very  interesting  hour  in  the  Hankow  Hospital 
with  Dr.  Gillison,  witnessing  his  treatment  of  thirty  or  forty 
outdoor  patients,  and  seeing  some  samples  of  Chinese  dis- 
eases, and  the  nature  and  value  of  Medical  Missions.     We 
had  the  privilege  of  teaching  a  Chinese  Bible  class  through 
an  interpreter,  and  seeing  their  bright,  responsive  minds.  We 
were  permitted  to  preach  to  the  English  congregation  on  Sab- 
bath evening,  and  trust  the  Lord  was  pleased  to  bless  Hi» 
Word. 


V  LAATDS. 


ON  THE  y.liYGTSF. 


389 


ir  workers  about 
rs,  this   was  his 
19  seven  or  eight 
sm  ;  if  they  were 
what  to  do  with 
ative  method  of 
)rni.     No  wonder 
ill  the  millions  of 
iionaries,  who  see 
lievein  a  **  larger 
lost  millions  in  a 
r  way.     Notwith- 
of  such  honoi-ed 
ina  for  not  only 
py  all  her  centres^ 
nt  century.     And 
ill  be  done. 
.'.  and  Mrs.  Arnold 
ome  Miss  Stowell, 
;,  spent  two  years. 
Hankow  Hospital 
j  of  thirty  or  forty 
>8  of  Chinese  dis- 
cal  Missions.    We 
Jible  class  through 
onsive  minds.  We 
Qgregation  on  Sab- 
leased  to  bless  Hi» 


We  visited  the  two  Swedish  Missions,  respectively  in  Han- 
kow and  Wuchang,  and  also  met  the  workers  of  the  China 
Inland  Mission,  who  have  a  business  station  here  for  the  sup- 
ply of  all  their  interior  stations,  and  are  now  erecting  now 
premises  for  stores  and  offices.  We  crossed  the  rough  river 
to  Wuchang,  and  visited  several  of  the  Missions  there,  and 
looked  at  some  premises  with  a  view  to  opening  a  station  here 
for  our  own  future  work.  This  is,  necessarily,  the  point  of 
transition  for  all  interior  stations,  and,  if  we  are  going  to  go 
farther  West,  it  will  be  necessary  for  us  to  have  a  branch  of 
our  work  here.  It  is,  especially,  tl>.e  starting  point  for 
Hunan,  the  great  unoccupied  province  of  Central  China,  and 
sustaining  the  same  relation  to  it  as  Qnangsi  to  the  South, 
and  Thibet  to  the  West. 

So  far  the  Hunanese  have  suifered  no  foreigner  to  settle 
in  their  province.  Many  have  visited  it,  but  only  to  be 
treated  harshly  and  driven  out.  But  God  is  working  for 
Huuan,  and  it  is  soon  to  be  opened  to  the  Gospel ;  if  not  by 
foreigners,  at  least  by  natives. 

Of  late  there  have  been  many  remarkable  tokens  of  a 
rising  of  the  native  Christians  to  evangelize  their  own  land. 
While  we  were  calling  at  the  Londor  ^.'ssion  in  Hankow,  we 
were  delighted  to  meet  two  natives  who  were  just  returning 
from  a  missionary  tour  through  that  province.  We  had 
their  story  translated  to  us,  and  it  was  thrilling  in  its  simple, 
apostolic  interest. 

One  of  them  is  an  old  man,  a  voluntary  evangelist,  who 
receives  no  salary  and  is  under  no  Society,  but  simply  a  mem- 


390      LARGER  orrr.ooKs  ox mtssioxary  r..txns. 

ber  of  tlie  Wualeyaii  Mission.     The  other  is  a  coolie,  who  was 
called  by  the  Spirit  to  accompany  the  other  and  carry  his 
books  and  baggage,  and  who  went  without  pay.     Each  re- 
ceived liis  call  apart  from  the  other.     Both  had  l)een  praying 
for  Hunan,  in  their  homes—about  nine  miles  apart.     After 
praying  awhile,  the  Spirit  said  to  them,  "  What  is  the  use  of 
your  i)raying  unless  you  do  something  yourself  to  answer 
your  prayer  ?    Why  don't  you  go  to  Hunan  ?  "    They  thought 
of  their  weakness,  and  the  difficulty  and  danger  of  the  field, 
but  God  told  them  that  He  woidd  be  their  Strength  and  Pro- 
tector ;   and  so    they   told  the  Wesleyan  missionary,   Mr. 
Warren,  of  their  plan,  and  he  and  his  people  approved  it,  and 
had  a  meeting  to  send  them  forth,  and  gave  them  a  collection 
of  $8.00;  and,   with   this  as  their  capital   and  outfit,  they 
started  on  foot  for  the  capital  of  Himan,  and  when  we  saw 
them  they  were  just  returning  from  their  first  missionary 
journey.     It  was  not  unlike  Paul's,  in  some  ways.     They  had 
many  perils  and  persecutions,  but  God  had  graciously  de- 
livered them  and  used  them,  and  they  were  now  going  home, 
with  glad  and  grateful  hearts,  to  tell  the  story  of  His  good- 
ness, and  go  forth  again  with  more  books  and  ti-acts  for  a 
more  extensive  tour. 

The  older  man  was  a  fine  sample  of  a  native  worker,  full 
of  deep,  solid  earnestness  and  holy  simplicity,  and  the  rough, 
uncultured  country  coolie  v.-as  just  as  interesting,  his  face 
fairly  shining  as  he  told  how  he  had  been  taken  to  the 
"Yamen,"  before  the  magistrate,  and  forbidden  to  sell  any- 
more of  these  books  or  preach  the  Gospel,  and  how,  when  be 


1. 


r.txns. 

coolio,  who  was 
•  and  carry  his 
l>iiy.     Each  re- 
1(1  been  praying 
!s  apart.     After 
iiat  is  the  use  of 
iself  to  answer 
They  thought 
ger  of  the  field, 
length  and  Pro- 
nissionary,   Mr. 
approved  it,  and 
liem  a  collection 
Lud' outfit,  they 
d  when  we  saw 
first  missionary 
i^ays.     They  had 
I  graciously  de- 
ow  going  home, 
ry  of  His  good- 
uid  tracts  for  a 

tive  worker,  full 
,  and  the  rough, 
(resting,  his  face 
n  taken  to  the 
Iden  to  sell  any 
id  how,  when  he 


ox  Tin-:   YANGTSE, 


391 


got  hack  to  his  friend,  they  went  on  as  before,  and  the  Lonl 
had  preserved  them,  and  the  very  men  who  had  opposed  and 
cursed  them  became  their  friends  and  b :>ught  their  books. 

This  is  but  a  typo  of  the  great  movement  which  C'hina 
needs  for  its  full  evangelization,  and  which  God  is  already 
preparing.  Let  us  pray,  let  us  work,  let  us  believe,  and  wo 
shall  see  the  glory  of  God.  It  seemed  like  a  voice  from 
heaven  to  us  to  meet  this  incident  at  the  very  moment  of  our 
arrival  in  Central  China,  and  we  conunend  our  two  dear 
brethren,  Chang-I-Tzu  and  Li-Quang-Ti,  or,  as  we  might  ab- 
breviate it,  Chang  and  Li,  to  the  pi-ayers  of  all  who  love  to 
remember  China. 

We  would  have  been  glad  to  go  up  to  Ichang,  the  head  of 
steam  navigation  on  the  Yangtse,  but  it  would  have  taken  a 
week  longer  and  our  time  was  already  overrun.  So  we  con- 
tented ourselves  with  a  good  talk  with  our  friends  who  had 
been  there,  and  especially  Mr.  Broomhall,  who  had  just  re- 
turned from  Ichang  ;  and  then,  amid  the  kind  leave-takings 
of  many  dear  friends  who  "  accompanied  us  unto  the  ship," 
we  started  down  the  great   river  for  Wuhn,  Nanking  and 

Shanghai. 

Just  before  we  sail  let  us  take  one  ])arting  glance  up 
these  two  mighty  rivers  to  the  vast  fields  that  lie  beyond. 

Soufl  of  us  lies  the  Province  of  Hunan,  with  a  pop- 
ulation gieater  than  all  the  Atlantic  States  combined, 
without  a  single  missionary  ;  and  north,  lies  Honan,  as  large 
and  nearly  as  needy.  Up  the  Yangtse  we  might  travel  thiity 
days  and  reach  Chung  King,  the  commercial  capital  of  Sz- 


392 


LARGER  OVTLOOKS  OX  MISSrOX.IRV  I.AXPS. 


<lm«'ti,  a  provinco  as  populous  as  tlu'  wholo  of  Franco,  and  just 
iK'^Munin^Mo  l)(.M'vanj;i'li/»Ml  witliin  tlu;  i>ast  few  years.  A 
month  still  lartlu'rupthosanic  river,  lies  Chontau,  tho  provinc- 
ial capital  of  Sz-chuen,  where  our  old  friend,  Mr.  Hart,  and  a 
lunnhcr  of  other  missionaries  have  recently  oi)enod  stations. 
It  takes  these  dear  workers  two  mouths  from  Shanghai  to 


ON  THE  UPPER  YANQT8E. 

reach  their  fields,  and  three  months  to  get  their  letters  from 

home. 

Still  farther  from  Chung  King  to  the  southwest,  is  the 
beautiful  and  mountainous  province  of  Kwoi-chau,  v^here  the 
China  Inland  Mission  have  i)lanted  a  few  pioneer  stations. 
Up  the  Han  to  the  northeast  lie  Shensi  and  Kansuh,  with 


/.  ;.v/>.s. 


ox  Till-:   YANGTSE. 


393 


'i-anco,  and  just 
few  years.  A 
uu,  lIjo  provinc- 
[r.  Halt,  and  u 
ijH'iK'd  stations. 
m  Shangliui  to 


leir  letters  from 

iuthwest,  is  the 
chau,  v'here  the 
)ionoer  stations, 
i  Kansuh,  with. 


tea  millions  of  people  most  friendly  and  open,  and  with  lum- 
drcds  of  cities  that  are  not  yet  entered,  and  where  living  is 
fio  clieap  that  one  smiles  when  they  hear  the  fiKures  at  which 
houses  can  he  rented  and  |)rovisions  hought. 

And  in  these  vast  jyrovinces,  as  yet  only  a  little  handful 
cf  jtionee'-s  have  placed  the 
soles  oi'  their  feet.    There  are 
empires  of    glorious  ()i)poi- 
tunity  waiting  for  Faith  and 
Courage  to  contiuer.     Were 
we  youngcn-  and  freer,  how 
our  heart  would  spring  to 
claim  them  1  Comi)ared  with 
them,  how  trifling  the  great- 
est Held  at  home  !    Ai'd  we 
wonder  that  even  the  niis- 
eionary  ahroad  can  he  wil- 
ling to  settle  down  on  some 
comfortahle    preserve,    pre- 
pared hy  the  toil  and  suffer- 
ings of  another,  content  tc 
"build  upon  another  man's 
foundation."  and  not  reach  out  to  these  "  regions  beyond " 
where  Cod  is  waiti)ig  to  give  him  a  kingdom  of  sovds  that 
shall  he  forever,  through  the  grace  of  Jesus,  all  his  own. 

Let  us  go  forth,  beloved,  and  claim  our  kingdom  while 
we  may.  The  possibilities  of  Mission  work  in  interior  China 
are  immense,  imperial.  Millennial,  and  glorious  indeed. 


PAQODA  ON  THE  YANQT8E. 


XXII. 


DOWN  THE  YANGTSE. 


il    • 


THE  journey  down  the  great  river  is  much  more  rapid 
than  the  ascent.     The  swift  current  adds,  at  least,  five 
or  six  miles  an  hour  to  the  tune  the  steamers  make 
going  down.     And  so  we  reached  Wuhu,  from  Hankow,  in 

about  thirty  hours. 

We  were  in  Hankow  in  the  height  of  the  tea  season.  It 
is  the  great  mart  for  China  tea,  and  so  the  river  was  full  of 
tea  ships,  loading  and  leaving  for  London.  These  are  splen- 
did steamers,  great  ocean  racers  which  compete  for  the  quick- 
est passrvge  and  the  earliest  cargoes  of  fresh  tea  for  the  Lon- 
don market.  One  was  just  leaving  with  eleven  million 
pounds  on  board,  -a  cargo  worth  several  million  dollars. 

The  tea  from  all  the  surrounding  country  comes  mto 
Hankow,  and  here  it  is  assorted,  packed  and  shipped.  The 
tea  business  employs  many  hands,  and  a  specific  profession, 
known  as  ' '  tea-tasting, "  has  grown  up,  which  affords  a  lucra- 
tive business  to  many  foreigners.  The  "  tea-taster  "  usually 
receives  a  very  large  salary  for  his  services  during  the  tea 
season,  of  about  two  months,  and  is  a  gentleman  of  leisure 
for  the  rest  of  the  year,  residing  at  Shanghai  or  London  or 
wherever  he  pleases.    His  business  is  to  test  the  teas  that  are 


394 


;h  more  rapid 
s,  at  least,  five 
iteaniers  make 
11  Hankow,  ia 

tea  season.    It 
'er  was  full  of 
lese  are  splen- 
>  for  the  quick- 
afor  the  Lon- 
eleveii  milium 
on  dollars. 
:ry  comes  into 
shipped.    The 
ific  profession, 
affords  a  lucra- 
;aster"  usually 
during  the  tea 
iman  of  leisure 
i  or  London  or 
he  teas  that  arc 


DOWN  rm:  yangtse. 


395 


offered,  and  they  are  assorted  and  hranded  according  to  his 
inspection.  The  tea  production  of  China  is  quite  different 
from  that  of  India  Here  it  is  all  raised  on  small  farms,  by 
the  natives,  and  brought  to  market  in  small  iiuantities  by 
innumerable  sellers ;  whereas,  in  India,  it  comes  in  large 
quantities  from  great  estates,  which  are  all  carried  (m  by 

English  planters. 

The  Hankow  teas  are  usually  black,  and  are  of  a  superior 
quality,  although  we  are  disposed  to  think  that  they  are  in- 
ferior to  the  best  India  teas. 

The  tea  u  aiy  drunk  in  China  by  the  natives  is  green 
tea.  Tea-drinking  is  universal.  The  tea  houses  are  every- 
where, and,  for  less  than  a  cent,  you  can  always  get  a  cup  of 
tea,  in  Chinese  fashion.  They  put  a  few  grains  of  tea  in  the 
bottom  of  your  cup,  and  pour  boiling  water  over  them  and 
then  cover  the  cup  and  let  it  infuse.  After  two  or  throe  min- 
utes it  is  fit  to  drink.  To  put  cream  or  sugar  in  it  would 
seem  as  strange  to  a  Chinaman  as  it  would  to  a  Scotchman  to 
put  sugar  in  his  oatmeal  porridge.  They  drink  this  univer- 
sally, and  think  it  very  delicious  and  wholesome. 

A  Chinaman  never  drinks  cold  water,  and  thinks  it 
strange  and  dangerous  for  Europeans  to  do  so.  It  is  a  great 
mercy  that  this  is  so,  for  the  habits  of  the  people  are  so  filthy 
that  were  they  to  drink  the  raw  water  of  their  ponds  and 
rivers,  the  whole  population  would  certainly  be  swept  away 
by  cholera  and  other  epidemics.  The  boiling  of  the  water,  in 
the  form  of  tea,  is  certainly  a  wise  and  providential  arrange- 
ment.    As  to  the  deliciousness  of  the  tea,  our  experience  was 


! 


i 


306  LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

too  brief  to  reach  a  favorable  conclusion.  Our  friends  told  us 
we  should  soon  come  to  prefer  it  to  all  other,  but  for  the  pres- 
ent, at  least,  we  have  about  the  same  opinion  of  it  as  we 
should  have  of  the  Scotchman's  porridge  without  the  sugar. 
We  were  not  surprised  to  learn  that  the  China  tea  trade 
is  suffering  frt)m  the  competition  from  India.  But  it  is  still 
an  immense  business,  and  has  made  Hankow  a  great  city, 
its  trade  last  year,  through  the  foreign  customs,  reaching 
nearly  $50, 000, 000. 

We  passed  through  some  very  beautiful  scenery  below 
Hankow.  The  hills  of  Wusui  are  quite  pretty,  and  the  "Lit- 
tle Orphan"  is  a  picturesque  island  standing  alone  in  the 
river  in  romantic  loneliness.  The  hills  at  Kui-Kiang,  over- 
hanging the  Poyang  Lake,  and  rising  four  or  five  thousand 
feet  high,  are  rather  fine,  and  afford  a  superb  location  for  a 
summer  hill  station.  The  heat  in  July  and  August  is  said  to 
be  very  great,  and  some  of  the  workers  occasionally  need  a 
change.  Most  of  the  missionaries  find  their  best  vacation  in 
their  country  touring.  A  trip  in  a  house-boat  among  the 
country  villages,  would  be  our  favorite  summer  vacation.  So 
far  as  heat  is  concerned,  we  have,  so  far,  found  none  in 
China,  and  have  suffered  more  from  the  cold  than  the  heat 
up  to  this  date,  the  beginning  of  June.  But  the  sun  is  very 
strong,  we  believe,  in  the  later  summer,  although  bearing.no 
sort  of  comparison  with  India. 

We  reached  Wuhu  on  Wednesday  morning,  and  spent 
three  days  with  our  brethren  of  the  Alliance  Mission  in  very 
important  sessions  for  conference  and  prayer,  and  when  we 


1 


^  LANDS. 

f  friends  told  us 
)ut  for  the  pres- 
iou  of  it  as  we 
lout  the  sugar, 
^hina  tea  trade 
But  it  is  still 
w  a  great  city, 
tonis,   reaching 

[  scenery  below 
r,  and  the  "Lit- 
[ig  alone  in  the 
Lui-Kiang,  over- 
)r  five  thousand 
rb  location  for  a 
lUgust  is  said  to 
asionally  need  a 
best  vacation  in 
oat  among  the 
ler  vacation.  So 
found  none  in 
id  than  the  heat 
b  the  sun  is  very 
ough  bearing.no 

ning,  and  spent 

Mission  in  very 

jr,  and  when  we 


r 


DOWN  THE    YANGTSE. 


397 


closed  the  conferences  at  the  Table  of  our  Lord  on  Friday 
night,  and  finally  parted  at  the  steamer  hulk,  on  Saturday 
morning,  we  all  felt  that  much  had  been  accomplished,  and 
that  our  Mission  work  in  China  was  about  to  enter  on  the 
second  chapter  of  its  history,  with  nuich  hopefulness  and 

blessing. 

Our  Mission  in  China  has  passed  through  peculiar  trials, 
commencing  with  the  death  of  Mr.  Cassidy  on  his  way  to  the 
field  as  its  first  pioneer  and  leader,  and  continuing  from  year 
to  year,  through  some  difficulties,  chief  of  which  has  been 
the  want  of  an  experienced  leader  and  a  permanent  organiza- 
tion.  But  we  believe  that  God  has  carried  our  beloved  friends 
safely  through  the  early  trials  inseparable  from  every  new 
work  and  that  the  Mission  will  now  go  forward,  under  well- 
matured  plans  and  experienced  leadership  to  sohd  work  and 

steady  growth. 

We  have  now  a  party  of  sixteen  American  missicuanes 
in  Central  China,  all  of  whom  have  more  or  less  fully  acquired 
the  language  and  are  ready  to  begin  work.  We  have  been 
able  to  arrange  for  their  organization  and  distribution  m  such 
a  manner  as  not  only  to  provide  for  their  highest  usefulness, 
but  also  for  the  opening  of  the  way  for  others  who  may  fol- 
low them  to  the  field  in  the  immediate  future. 

One  of  the  very  first  necessities  of  the  work  is  the  ap- 
pointment of  a  capable  and  experienced  Superintendent,  not 
only  for  this  field,  but  for  all  our  work  in  China,  and  this  has 
now  been  arranged  to  the  satisfaction  of  all  concerned  ;  and  we 
rejoice  tohope  that  henceforth  our  work  in  China  will  be,  under 


398 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


God,  under  the  direction  of  a  wise  and  strong  hand,  able  to  give 
to  it  the  care  it  requires  and  desires.  Such  leaders  God  has 
given  us  in  all  our  other  fields,  and  without  the  most  compe- 
tent oversight  on  the  field,  our  work  in  China  cannot  be 
carried  on  successfully.  The  success  of  the  China  Inland 
Mission  is  largely  due,  under  God,  to  the  wisdom,  faith,  and 
personal  administration  of  men  like  Mr.  Taylor,  Mr.  Steven- 
son, Mr.  Bailer,  and  others  whom  God  has  specially  fitted  for 
these  great  trusts. 

The  way  is  also  opening  for  the  distribution  of  our  work- 
ers in  a  number  of  new  stations.  Two  of  our  brethren  are 
preparing  to  open  a  station  south  of  Wuhu,  and  four  of  them 
have  two  new  fields  in  view  on  the  north  side  of  Wuhu,  in 
San-Ho,  a  city  in  the  vicinity  of  Luchau-fu,  on  the  Chow 
Lake,  and  Han-San-Hsien,  a  city  farther  east  in  the  province. 
All  these  points  have  been  visited  by  them  and  work  begun, 
and  they  are  most  important  centres  of  vast  and  yet  unoc- 
cupied regions  with  millions  of  people. 

It  would  be  premature  to  say  that  certain  cities  will  be 
occupied  ;  for  the  opening  of  a  new  city  in  China  is  a  very 
different  matter  from  what  it  is  in  India.  In  the  latter  coun- 
try you  can  locate  where  you  please,  under  British  protection, 
and  all  you  have  to  do  is  to  go  and  rent  or  build  a  house.  But 
in  China  it  is  a  very  different  matter.  You  cannot  go  where 
you  please.  You  cannot  go  anywhere  without  the  good  will 
of  the  people  and  the  consent  of  the  officials.  You  can  visit 
a  town  and  be  well  received,  but  when  you  come  to  rent  a 
house,  your  difficulties  begin.    Many  of  the  people  might  be 


1 


y  LANDS. 

hand,  able  to  give 
I  leaders  God  has 
the  most  compe- 
China  cannot  be 
he  China  Inland 
isdom,  faith,  and 
lylor,  Mr.  Steven- 
ipecially  fitted  for 

ition  of  our  work- 
:  our  brethren  are 
,  and  four  of  them 

side  of  Wuhu,  in 
-fu,  on  the  Chow 
5t  in  the  province. 

and  work  begun, 
ast  and  yet  unoc- 

ftain  cities  will  be 
in  China  is  a  very 
In  the  latter  coun- 
British  protection, 
build  a  house.  But 
u  cannot  go  where 
hout  the  good  will 
lis.  You  can  visit 
ffou  come  to  rent  a 
le  people  might  be 


DOWN  THE   YANGTSE. 


399 


willing  to  rent  to  you,  but  they  are  afraid.  You  might  be 
turned  out  and  the  house  destroyed  by  a  mob.  In  some  cases 
a  man  has  been  severely  beaten  by  the  Mandarin  for  renting 
a  house  to  a  foreigner.  The  present  attitude  of  the  Chinese 
officials  is  to  allow  as  few  stations  to  be  occupied  by  foreign- 
ers as  possible.  Much  tact,  wisdom,  and  patience  are  neces- 
sary in  opening  new  stations. 

The  Canadian  Presbyterians  have  been  five  years  in  get- 
ting two  small  stations  opened  in  Honan,  and  in  that  time 
they  have  had  several  disturbances.  The  Swedes,  near  Han- 
kow, were  escorted  out  of  a  city  they  had  rented  a  house  in, 
the  other  day.  The  Norwegians,  on  the  Han  River,  had  just 
been  ordered  to  stop  the  erection  of  their  new  Mission  house 
the  week  before  we  were  in  Hankow.  The  building  of  a 
foreign  house  in  a  new  station  is  simply  out  of  the  question. 
It  will  be  a  great  thing  to  get  a  native  house  leased,  and  we 
must  not,  therefore,  be  discouraged  if  our  dear  friends  are 
a  little  while  in  getting  settled  in  San-Ho,  Luchau-fu  and 
Han-San,  and  if  they  get  marched  out  again  more  than  once 
after  they  do  get  in. 

But  they  are  going  to  put  the  sole  o':  their  foot  down  on 
new  ground,  and  we  shall  back  them  up  oy  our  earnest  pray- 
ers. The  province  of  Ghanwhei,  where  they  are  settled,  is 
a  large  and  populous  one.  It  is  the  least  occupied  by  mis- 
sionaries of  any  of  the  Central  Provinces  of  China.  It  had 
34,000,000  people  before  the  rebeUion,  and  may  now  have 
20,000,000.  It  has  five  great  Fu  cities,  of  which  only  one, 
we  believe,  is  occupied  by  missionaries.    The  Fu  city  is  the 


400 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


capital  of  a  great  provincial  district.  Next  come  the 
H'schien  cities,  like  our  country  towns.  Tliere  are  more 
than  fifty  of  these  in  Ghanwhei,  and  not  over  half  a  dozen 
of  them  have  missionaries.  Besides,  there  are  innumerable 
market  towns  of  from  ten  to  twenty  thousand  people,  usu- 
ally the  best  places  for  a  missionary  centre. 

The  field  in  Ghanwhei  is  about  six  times  as  great  as  the 
whole  ])rovince  of  Berar,  in  India,  and  it  will  bo  seen  that 
there  is  ample  room  for  many  scores  of  laborers  within  it. 
The  people  are  fairly  friendly,  and  the  means  of  communica- 
tion are  very  easy,— creeks  and  canals  running  past  nearly 
all  the  towns,  and  enal)ling  the  missionary  to  reach  the  field 
and  almost  all  his  stations  by  boat.  In  this  province  we  be- 
lieve God  would  have  us  concentrate  for  the  present  nmch  of 
our  China  work,  and  aim,  as  in  Berar,  to  occupy  it  fully,  and 
provide  for  the  speedy  evangelization  o'f  all  its  towns  and 
people. 

Wuhu  is  its  principal  commercial  city — its  best  centre  of 
operations.  Here  we  shall  have  our  headquarters,  and  from 
hence  distribute  our  workers  over  the  province. 

Here  we  propose  to  build  a  Receiving  Home  for  new 
missionaries,  where  they  may  come  immediately  on  their 
arrival,  and  spend  six  months  in  the  study  of  the  language 
and  preparation  for  their  future  work.  We  were  fortunate 
in  being  able,  we  believe,  to  secure  a  site  for  such  a  Home, 
and  we  trust,  ere  long,  to  have  a  plain  and  suitable  building. 

Besides  our  work  in  this  Province  of  Ghanwhei,  the 
Lord  has  shown  us  that  we  must  also  prepare,  on  a  moder- 


^  i.A^ins. 


nou'.y  THE  vAscrsn. 


401 


'^ext  comn  the 
riiere  are  more 
er  half  a  dozen 
ire  innumerable 
ind  people,  usu- 

s  as  great  as  the 
nil  1)0  seen  that 
borers  within  it. 
3  of  communica- 
ling  past  nearly 
0  reach  the  field 
province  we  be- 
present  much  of 
npy  it  fully,  and 
11  its  towns  and 

its  best  centre  of 
arters,  and  from 
ice. 

;  Home  for  new 
idiately  on  their 
of  the  language 
e  were  fortunate 
r  such  a  Home, 
luitable  building. 
'  Ghanwhei,  the 
)are,  on  a  moder- 


ate scale,  for  future  expansion  to  the  interior  and  the  farther 
West.  God  is  very  plainly  loading  some  of  our  missionaries 
to  the  great  closed  field  of  Thibet,  and  Ho  expects  us  iu  faith 
and  hope  to  begin  to  prepare  a  highway  to  that  land,  and  all 
along  that  way  to  have  a  local  work  for  China.  Tlie  way  to 
Thibet,  we  believe,  is  two-fold  :  first,  by  way  of  Northern 
India,  as  we  pointed  out  in  our  letter  from  Darjeeling  ;  and, 
secondly,  through  China,  as  recent  events,  which  we  shall 
immediately  refer  to,  have  perhaps  shown. 

With  a  view  to  the  opening  up  of  work  iu  tlu^  West  and 
the  Northwest,  and  also  of  preparing  a  Une  of  communica- 
tion to  the  Western  frontier,  we  have  arranged  for  a  station 
in  Wuchang  where  the  opportunity  of  securing  a  Home  waa 
offered.     Two  of  our  brethren  v/ill  immediately  occupy  this 
great  centre,  and  hold  it  for  future  developments.    It  is  the 
natural  centre  of  Interior  China,  and  a  grand  strategic  point, 
either  for  a  movement  westward  along  the  Yangtse,  toward. 
Shansi,  Ichang  or  Sz-chuen  ;  or  northwestward  up  the  Han, 
toward  Shensi  and  Kansuh,  the  great  unoccupied  provinces 
of  the  Northwest,  and  the  hne  of  approach  to  Thibet ;  or  to 
the  great  province  of  Hunan  in  the  South— the  Gibraltar  of 
China,  and  the  one  province  in  which  no  foreigner  has  yet 
been  permitted  to  reside 

Our  sisters  in  China  will  remain  at  Wuhu  for  the  pres- 
ent, and  engage  in  work  for  women.  As  soon  as  a  country 
station  shall  have  been  opened,  two  of  the  young  ladies  have 
bravely  decided  to  remove  to  it,  and  begin  real  evangelistic 
work.  It  is  a  little  premature  for  many  single  ladies  to  go  to 
China,  until  the  way  is  somewhat  prepared  by  men. 


"isr^ 


402         LARCr.R  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIOaWARY  I. ANPS. 

At  the  nsk  of  seeming  uncomplimentary,  wo  nniHt  say- 
that  we  question  whether  many  of  our  Atnerican  young 
ladies  are  as  well  fitted  for  real  pioneer  work  in  new  fields  as 
their  Enghsh  sisters  of  the  China  Inland  Mission,  It  involves 
very  great  privation  and  requires  espc  cial  courage  and  train- 
ing to  engage  in  tliis  work,  and  the  average  Americriu 
woman  is  not  equal  to  it,  and  will  shrink  from  it  when  8h(> 

gets  to  China. 

There  are  two  kinds  of  work  for  lady  missionaries  in 
China,— one,  in  the  treaty  ports,  where  they  can  wear  the 
European  costume  and  live  in  European  houses  or  good  native 
ones,  and  have  most  of  the  comforts  of  life  that  they  have 
heen  accustomed  to  at  home,— the  other,  in  the  interior, 
where  they  will  he  expected  to  wear  the  native  dress,  to 
travel  native  style,  to  sometimes  eat  native  food,  to  face 
curious,  impertinent  and  often  rude  crowds  of  men  and  boyc, 
and  to  live  in  houses  where  many  of  the  odors  are  disagree- 
able, and  such  a  thing  as  a  fire  in  your  room  is  unknown  and 

impossible. 

We  must  say,  from  real  investigation,  that  many  of  the 
ladies  of  the  China  Inland  Mission  do  all  these  things,  and 
undergo  all  these  privations  without  complaint,  and  are  con- 
sidered by  those  most  f  amiUar  with  the  work  of  that  Society, 
to  be  often  the  most  successful  and  efficient  pioneers  in  even 
the  newest  and  hardest  fields. 

All  honor  to  these  brave,  self-denying  women.  We  know 
they  have  been  criticised,  we  know  the  wisdom  of  their 
course  has  been  questioned  by  many,  we  know  the  com- 


wa^ifefe-.  '■' 


I RV  LANDS. 

ary,  we  must  Bay 
American  young 
rk  in  now  fielda  as 
ission.     It  involves 
courage  and  train- 
average  Americnu 
from  it  when  8h<' 

dy  missionaries  in 
they  can  wear  the 
ouses  or  good  native 
hfe  that  they  havo 
jr,  in  the  interior, 
he  native  dress,  to 
ative  food,  to  face 
Is  of  men  and  boyc, 
odors  are  disagree- 
)m  is  unknown  and 

I,  that  many  of  the 
ill  these  things,  and 
plaint,  and  are  con- 
ork  of  that  Society, 
nt  pioneers  in  even 

women.  We  know 
e  wisdom  of  their 
kve  know  the  com- 


DOn'N  THE   YANGTSE. 


403 


plaints  of  a  few  are  often  unjustly  charged  upon  the  many, 
hut  after  all  we  have  heard  and  seen,  we  are  satisfied  that 
many  of  them  are  doing  this  sort  of  work  and  doing  it  well. 
But,  at  the  same  time,  wo  believe  that  no  woman  should  at- 
temi)t  it  without  fully  understanding  it,  accepting  all  its  con- 
ditions, and  being  specially  j)repared  for  it  and  called  to  it. 

And  we  are  bound  to  say  that  comparatively  few  of  our 
American  girls  will  be  found  equal  to  it,  and  none  without  a 
very  real  struggle  and  a  very  direct  sense  of  the  Master's  call. 
The  single  item  of  winter  fires  will  bring  a  test  at  the  be- 
ginning. Many  American  girls  are  accustomed  to  a  warm 
room  heated  to  00  or  70  degrees.  The  English  girl  is  used  to 
a  cold  room,  and  simply  pads  her  Chinese  dress  a  little  thick- 
er and  never  minds.  Then  she  is  inured  to  long  walks  of 
miles,  and  can  stand  any  amount  of  physical  hardship  to 
which  her  western  sister  has  nevor  been  trained. 

These  are,  simply,  facts  that  we  have  to  look  at  either 
after  we  go  to  the  field  or  before.  At  present  our  work  in 
China  is  pioneer  work.  We  are  not  far  enough  in  to  have 
many  places  prepared,  so  that  our  ladies  can  follow  up  the 
work  of  men.  Our  workers  must  go,  like  the  men  of 
Ephraim,  into  the  thick  wood  and  cut  down  for  themselves. 
And,  therefore,  until  we  have  opened  up  a  number  of  new- 
stations  and  cleared  the  way  for  easier  work  by  women  for 
women,  the  great  need  of  our  work  in  China  is  men,— young 
men,  unmarried  men— men  that  love  bold,  aggressive 
work— men  that  expect  to  remain  single,  at  least  until 
they   have  cut   their  way  through   the   earlier  difficulties 


f 


404       LAh'(.''f,*  nf'TLOOK'S  OX  MfSSIOX.tny  I.AXPS. 

f  their  field,  and  after,  i)eihaiw,  a  fiw  years'  campaign 
have  won  their  Jerichos  and  Hchrous,  and  Bucceeded  in 
opening;  u  s.  Uion  on  virgin  soil  ;  not  by  "IniildinK  on  an- 
other man's  fonndation,"  hut  hy  reaching  out  into  "the 
regions  heyond  "  and  conijuering  a  kingdom  all  their  own. 
These  are  the  men  wo  want  in  China  to-day.  May  God  give 
us  a  hand  of  them  ! 

And  if  there  are  any  women,  who,  counting  the  cost,  will 
dare  to  compete  with  them,  and  claim  the  honors  ;uid  prizes 
of  such  ])ioneer  work,  wo  will  not  dare  to  forbid  nor  discour- 
age them.  But  we  will  frankly  say  that  mdess  they  are  pre- 
pared gladly  and  without  (piestion  to  adopt  the  native  dress, 
to  forego  many  things  that  they  have  considered  almost  ne- 
cessities, and  to  press  out  into  i)ioneor  work  as  soon  as  they 
have  acquired  the  language,  they  had  better  wait,  or  ask  the 
Lord  to  lead  them  to  India  or  some  other  field  where  the  dif- 
ficulties in  a  woman's  way  are  less  formidable. 

There  is  another  course,  viz.,  to  go  out  under  one  of  the 
other  Societies  that  are  working  in  China,  in  older  cities  and 
centres,  and  have  openings  for  woman's  work,  free  from  the 
disabilities  and  disagreeabilities  which  we  have  described. 
This  is  one  of  the  temptations  that  will  meet  our  girls  on 
arriving  in  China.  They  will  find  many  lady  missionaries 
working  for  the  heathen  amid  circumstances  of  comfort  and 
social  refinement,  and  they  will  wonder  why  they  should  be 
expected  to  fare  differently. 

They  may  forget  that  there  places  of  servif  0  nxQ  in  old 
Missions  that  have  been  long  opened  bj  the  self-sacrifice  and 


w 


•  I./IXPS. 

years'  campaign 
!i(l  fiucceedod  in 
building  on  an- 
;  out  into  "the 
I  uU  tlu'ir  own. 
May  God  give 

ing  tho  cost,  will 
onoi-s  and  prizes 
[bid  nor  discour- 
es9  they  are  pre- 
the  native  dress, 
dered  almost  ne- 
as  soon  as  they 
wait,  or  ask  the 
d  where  the  dif- 
le. 

mder  one  of  the 
I  older  ciuies  and 
rk,  free  from  the 
have  described, 
noet  our  girls  on 
lady  missionaries 
s  of  comfort  and 
y  they  should  be 

lervii-o  nre  in  old 
self-sacrifice  and 


DOWN  THE  VANCrSE. 


4^\S 


toil  of  oth  'S,  Our  work  is  not  to  go  in  and  it  up  the  fruit  of 
their  toil  in  the  easy  i)lacos.  Our  calling,  as  a  S(»ciety,  is  to 
go  to  "the  ri'gioi  s  beyond,"  "wIum'  Christ  bus  m»t  been 
named."  And,  unless  we  are  prepared  to  face  the  risks  of 
tbis  kind  of  work,  we  are  not  W(»rthy  of  our  trust.  There- 
fore, we  ai«4  calling  for  brave  men  who  are  willing  to  give 
themselves  to  this  sort  of  work  ;  and,  therefore,  wo  feel  we 
should  not  impose  it  ui)<)n  our  sisterw,  save  in  those  excep- 
tional cases  where  a  Deborah  nrises  to  i^ut  a  Barak  to  shaine, 
and  show  that  the  weakness  of  (iod  and  of  woman  is  stnug- 

«r  than  men. 

Sucha  voman  has  just  passed  through  China,  and  also 
America,  on  lier  way  to  England.  \^  o  were  two  or  three 
days  behind  her,  and  failed  to  meet  h'>r  personally,  but  we 
have  heard  her  story  from  others  who  1  ave  had  long  inter- 
views with  her.  We  had  heard  of  her  i  lonths  ago,  at  Dar- 
jeeling,  and  her  friends  then  were  expe(  ting  her  to  appear 
on  the  frontier  of  Thibet  at  the  time  w.  were  there.  We 
refer  to  Miss  Taylor,  who  has  just  emerged  from  Thibet  aft.'r 
spending  ten  months  in  that  long  closed  land.  For  many 
years  this  brave  little  Englishwoman  has  lad  Thibet  upon 
lier  heart,  as  a  great  burden  of  faith  and  prayer,  and  she  has 
felt  that  it  never  would  be  occui)ied  until  su-ae  one  had  faith 
enough  to  "  put  the  soles  of  their  feet "  upoi  it  and  actually 
claim  it  in  the  name  of  Jesus.     This  she    sas  successfully 

done.  ,  ni  • 

Nearly  a  year  ago.  Miss  Taylor  passed  th    )Ugh  Chma  to 


4o6        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

the  Western  border  of  Kansuh,  one  of  the  Northwestern  prov- 
inces,  and  took  her  station  on  the  border  to  watch  her  chance 
to  get  over  into  Thibet.     Two  or  three  times  she  was  baffled 
by  the  vigilance  of  the  authorities,  but,  hke  a  woman,  she 
stuck  to  her  purpose,  aad,  at  last,  one  day,  when  the  guards 
were  sleeping,  she  slipped  in.     She  was  accon^panied  by  a 
Thibetan  and  a  Chinese  servant.     She  travels  with  these  men 
as  a  female  merchant,  wearing  the  Thibetan  costume.     She 
found  no  difficulty  from  the  Thibetans,  whom  she  describes 
as  very  friendly,  especially  to  the  Enghsh.   The  only  enemies 
she  had  to  fear  were  the  jealous  Chinese  officials,  and,  to  a 
certain  extent,  the  lamas  or  priests.     Her  purpose  was  to 
reach  Lhassa,  the  capital,  and  pass  through  it  into  India  at 
Darjeeling.    This  she  thinks  she  might  have  done  if  she  had 
not  been  betrayed  by  her  Chinese  servant,  who,  perhaps  from 
fear  of  punishment  in  case  she  was  detected,  gave  notice  to 
the  authorities  of  her  character  and  plans,  and  a  company  of 
soldiers  was  sent  to  escort  her  back  to  China.     But  she  had 
already  succeeded  in  spending  nearly  a  year  in  the  country, 
and  preaching  the  Gospel  in  many  of  its  towns  and  villages. 
She  believes  that  Thibet  is  open,  and  has  just  returned  to 
England  to  raise  a  company  of  volunteer  missionaries  to  go 
at  once  to  Darjeeling,  and  prepare  to  enter  from  the  side  of 
India,  which  she  agrees,  with  our  formerly  expressed  opmion, 
in  regarding  it  as  the  most  hopeful  side     We  trust  our  Thib- 
etan volunteers  in  America  are  getting  ready,  and  that  God 
will  «oon  give  us  also-as  well  as  this  brave  woman-the  de- 
sire of  our  heart. 


^.-J 


'Y  LANDS. 

)rth  western  prov- 
,vatch  her  chance 
s  she  was  baffled 
ke  a  woman,  she 
when  the  guards 
ccon^panied  by  a 
Is  with  these  men 
m  costume.     She 
tiom  she  describes 
The  only  enemies 
officials,  and,  to  a 
r  purpose  was  to 
;h  it  into  India  at 
VQ  done  if  she  had 
vho,  perhaps  from 
:ed,  gave  notice  to 
and  a  company  of 
ina.     But  she  had 
ar  in  the  country, 
owns  and  villages. 
s  just  returned  to 
missionaries  to  go 
er  from  the  side  of 
expressed  opinion, 
Nq  trust  our  Thib- 
tady,  and  that  God 
TQ  woman — the  de- 


DOWN  THE  YANGTSE. 


407 


Our  two  dear  brothers,  Messrs.  Christie  and  Simpson, 
who  came  to  China  to  prepare  for  entering  Thibet,  went  down 
to  Shanghai,  and  had  a  long  interview  with  Miss  Taylor.  She 
encouraged  them  in  their  purpose  to  persevere  in  seeking  to 
enter  from  China,  while  others,  at  the  same  time,  are  enter- 
ing from  India.     She  strongly  advised  them  to  go  to  Peking 
and  study  Thibetan  there,  where  numbers  of  Thibetans  reside. 
We  have  encouraged  them  in  this  plan,  and  they  will  imme- 
diately remove  to  the  capital,  and  with  their  fine  knowledge 
of  Chinese,  will  be  able  to  do  much  good  work,  and,  we  trust, 
estabhsh  a  permanent  station  while  spen(Mng  the  necessary 
time-about  a   year-in  acquiring  the  Thibetan  language. 
And  so  God  has,  in  a  most  gracious  and  providential  man- 
ner,  fitted  this  also  into  our  journey,  and  enabled  us,  in  His 
light,  to  see  light  more  and  more  clearly  respecting  His  will 
for  this  great,  closed  land  of  Thibet,  whose  opening  gates 
touch  so  clearly  the  portals  of  His  coming.     Praise  the  Lord  ! 
Wo  trust  to  find,  when  we  reach  home,  that  God  has 
been  speaking  to  some  other  brave  and  believing  men  about 
entering  Thibet,  both  from  the  India  and  China  side.     We 
would  be  glad  to  have  a  score  of  the  right  kind  of  mission- 
aries, some  for  the  India  and  some  for  the  China  baud. 

We  have  dwelt  thus  Trlly  upon  the  plans  and  arrange- 
ments of  our  missionary  work  in  China,  that  our  dear  people, 
who  are  our  partners  in  all  this  work,  may  understand  the 
situation  fully,  and  be  able  to  co-operate  with  intelhgence 
and  profound  interest, 

God  is  giving  as  five  fields  in  this  great  land,  viz. :  first, 


4o8         LARGER  OrTLOOR-S  OX  Jtr/SS/OXARy  LANDS. 

the  great  unoccupied  province  of  Quangsi  in  the  south; 
second,  the  large  province  of  Ghanwhei,  in  the  centre  ;  third, 
Wuchang  as  the  point  oi  approach  for  tho  west  and  the  north- 
west ;  fourth,  Peking  in  the  northeast,  where  oar  sisters  are 
laborii  g  ;  and  fifth,  Shansi  in  the  extreme  north,  where  the 
Swedes  are  settling.  And  now,  in  connection  with  oui-  Thib- 
etan work,  we  hope  that  the  friends  from  Wuchr.ng  and  the 
friends  from  Shansi  will  yet  meet,  by  converging  li  cs,  away 
in  distant  Kansuh,  and  open  two  great  highways,  both  from 
tlie  west  and  the  north,  to  the  borders  of  Thibet ;  liighwaya 
which  w^e  trust  will  yet  be  lined  with  Mission  stations  for  the 
great  cities  of  interior  China  all  along  the  way.  This  is  the 
vision.     May  the  Lord  Himself  fulfill  it,  and  hasten  it  in  His 

time ! 

We  took  some  walks  into  the  coimtry  around  Wuhu. 
One  of  the  first  was  to  the  little  cemetery  where  William 
Knapp  and  Susie  Beals  lie  sleeping,  as  pledges  of  China  to 
Christ.  It  is  a  neat  little  enclosure,  and  we  ordered  two  mod- 
est stones  to  be  reared  for  those  honored  and  loved  ones. 

The  whole  country  is  one  immense  rice  field.  It  is.extra- 
ordinary  how  much  these  Chinese  get  out  of  thtir  land.  They 
raise  three  crops  a  year  off  all  their  fields,  and  keep  the  soil 
literally  saturated  with  manure.  The  cultivation  of  rice  is 
very  interesting.  First,  they  flood  the  land,  and  while  it  is  a 
great  morass  of  mud  and  mire,  they  turn  in  their  buffaloes 
and  plows  and  harrows,  and  just  mix  it  up  into  a  perfect 
quagmire.  Then  the  women  wade  in  and  plant  the  rice 
stalks,  about  six  inches  long,  which  had  previously  been 


'^wiijiJM! 


-WfB 


)'  LANDS. 

i  in  the  south ; 
ho  centre ;  third, 
>st  and  the  north- 
e  oar  sisters  are 
north,  where  the 
m  with  our  Thib- 
i^'uchcng  and  the 
•ging  h'  GS,  away 
ways,  both  from 
hibct ;  highways 
n  stations  for  the 
/^ay.  This  is  the 
I  hasten  it  in  His 

Y  around  Wuhu. 
J  where  William 
dges  of  China  to 
ordered  two  mod- 
d  loved  ones, 
fteld.  It  is.extra- 
thtir  land.  They 
md  keep  the  soil 
ivation  of  rice  is 
,  and  while  it  is  a 
in  their  buffaloes 
up  into  a  perfect 
lid  plant  the  rice 
I  previously  been 


DOWN  THE  VANGTSE. 


409 


fi^.:tr-':. 


raised  in  a  little  nursery,  and  set  them  in  rows  in  the  mud, 
about  six  inches  ai)art ;  and  so  it  grows  until  it  ripens  as  the 
water  gradually  dn^s.  A  growing  rice  field  has  the  most  ex- 
quisite light  green  tint  imaginable,  and  when  the  country  is 
covered  with  these  fields  it  is  very  pretty.  As  soon  as  the 
rice  is  harvested,  they  plant  some  other  grain.  Most  of  the 
rice  fields  we  saw 
had  been  planted 
just  after  the  har- 
vesting of  their 
wheat  and  l)arley. 

We  saw  one 
very  novel  sight. 
It  was  a  battle  with 
an  army  of  locusts. 
These  pests  are  very 
numerous,  and  were 
as  yet  only  half 
grown.  As  we 
walked  through  the 
fields  we  trod  upon 
billions  of  them,  as 

they  literally  strewed  the  ground  and  hopped  about  in  clouds. 
They  were  about  the  size  of  small  grasshoppers.  The 
people  were  getting  alarmed  about  them,  and,  one  day,  we 
saw  a  little  army  of  men  and  boys  stretched  out  in  a  long 
row,  just  like  a  regiment,  and  with  long  switches  beating  the 
ground  before  them,  and  moving  forward  in  a  solid  line  and 


CHINESE  MODE  OF  iRRIQATINQ. 


''I 
5  si 


4IO 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


driving  the  locusts  in  myriads  in  front  of  them.  A  httle 
distance  in  front  they  had  dug  a  trench,  and  lighted  a  fire 
at  the  bottom  of  it,  and  into  this  trench  the  locusts  were 
being  driven  where  they  would,  of  course,  be  burned  to  death. 
But  it  would  take  a  great  many  trenches  and  great  many- 
Chinamen  to  exterminate  all  the  locusts  we  saw  that  day. 
Poor  people,  we  pray  God  they  may  be  saved  from  a  locust 
famine  this  summer. 

We  took  a  Chinese  passage  from  Wuhu  to  Nanking,  and 
some  of  our  dear  missionaries  accompanied  us.  The  accom- 
modation for  Chinese  passengers  is  very  good  and  the  fares 
low. 

We  spent  two  very  pleasant  days  in  Nanking.  It  is  the 
old  Imperial  Capital,  and  is  great,  even  in  its  ruins.  Its  im- 
mense walls  enclose  a  space  more  than  thirty  miles  around, 
and  two-thirds  of  this  vast  space  is  occupied  by  market  gar- 
dens and  graves.  The  present  native  city  is  not  one-fourth 
its  former  size,  although  it  is  still  a  city  of  three  hundred 
thousand  inhabitants.  Just  beyond  the  city  are  the  Tombs 
of  the  old  Ming  Dynasty,  approached  by  an  avenue  of  colos- 
sal elephants,  carved  out  of  single  blocks  of  stone.  Outside 
the  gates  also  stood  the  beautiful  porcelain  pagodas,  which 
were  the  wonder  of  Chinese  architecture,  but  of  which  there 
remains  scarcely  a  crumbling  fragment. 

The  city  was,  for  thirteen  years,  the  capital  of  the  Tai- 
ping  Ilebellion,  and  at  the  fall  of  that  great  movement,  as  well 
as  at  its  inception,  the  destruction  of  human  life  was  enor- 
mous. 


'•niii)»!ifc*;<i. ' 


V  LANDS. 

them.  A  little 
ad  lighted  a  fire 
,he  locnsta  were 
burned  to  death, 
and  great  many 
e  saw  that  day. 
ed  from  a  locust 

to  Nanking,  and 
us.  The  accom- 
)d  and  the  fares 

oking.  It  is  the 
s  ruins.  Its  im- 
I'ty  miles  around, 
I  by  market  gar- 
s  not  one-fourth 
)f  three  hundred 
y  are  the  Tombs 
avenue  of  colos- 

I  stone.     Outside 

II  pagodas,  which 
it  of  which  there 


ipital  of  the  Tai- 
iiovement,  as  well 
lan  life  was  enor- 


/JOryV  THE  VANGTSE. 


4H 


One  of  the  most  extraordinary  movements  of  human 
history,  that  strange  episode  of  Chinese  history,  over  and 
over  again,  comes  back  to  one  in  China  witli  profound  inter- 
est and  wonder. 

It  was  almost  contemporaneous  with  our  own  American 


THE  MINQ  TOMBS. 


rebelUon.  It  originated  with  a  Christian  inquirer  in  Southern 
China.  This  man  was  well  known  to  the  early  missionaries, 
and  at  one  time  asked  baptism  at  their  hands.  This  was  de- 
ferred, as  it  was  Mt  that  he  needed  instruction.  He  had  a 
fau-  knowledge  of  Christianity,  and  incorporated  its  leading 


HIT 


412         LARGER  OVTI.OOk'S  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

doctrine  as  the  basis  of  liis  system,  although  ho  doubtless 
included,  along  with  mu/h  crude  Christian  truth,  a  great 
mass  of  fanatical  notions  :.nd  i)orsonal  revelations.  Feeling 
the  injustice  of  the  op)08ition  an<"'  persecution  offered  to 
Christianity,  and  also  to  himself,  h(>  resorted  to  force  in 
self-defence,  and  gradually  gathering  around  him  a  band  of 
enthusiasts  like  himself,  ho  boldly  took  up  arms  in  defence 
of  his  claims,  i^s  his  cause  increased  in  strength,  his  fanati- 
cal claims  grew  more  and  more  exalted,  until,  at  length,  he 
proclaimed  himself  the  "Son  of  Heaven,"  and  demanded  im- 
plicit subjection  to  his  authority  as  the  official  representative 
of  God.'  All  who  did  not  accept  him  and  the  new  faith  were 
put  to  the  sword.  Like  a  second  Mohammed,  he  swept  over 
Southern  and  Central  China,  and  left  behind  him,  everywhere, 
a  track  of  blood  and  a  holocaust  of  graves.  He  had  a  sort  of 
Christian  creed,  and  his  armies  marched  to  battle  singing  the 
Christian  Doxology.  His  alternative  was  the  Creed  or  the 
Sword.  All  who  did  not  accent  the  Trmity,  the  Saviour  and 
the  Son  of  Heavon  wore  put  to  death.  It  was  the  strangest 
caricature  of  tho  Glospel  jh;Vu  iV^e  world  ever  saw. 

Ho  alwayc  professed  ic  be  the  frien<''  of  the  missionaries, 
and,  again  and  again,  beggod  them  to  join  him.  One  of  thorn 
told  us  that  when  his  army  was  encamped  outside  of  Shang- 
liai,  and  his  soldiers  surrounded  the  mission  property,  and 
had  free  access  to  their  deserted  premises  for  weeks,  not  a 
thing  was  injured  ;  and  on  their  return,  after  his  troops  re- 
tired, not  even  the  smallest  thing  was  missing.  This  extra- 
ordinary movement  swept  over  all  Southern  and  Central 


he  doubtless 
truth,  a  great 
ions.  Feeling 
'on  offered  to 
ed  to  force  in 
liim  a  band  of 
'nis  in  defence 
;th,  his  fanati- 
I,  at  length,  he 
demanded  ini- 
representative 
lew  faith  were 
he  swept  over 
n,  everywhere, 
[e  had  a  sort  of 
X\e  singing  the 
le  Creed  or  the 
he  Saviour  and 
s  the  strangest 
w. 

e  missionaries, 
>.  One  of  them 
tside  of  Shang- 

property,  and 
r  weeks,  not  a 
r  his  troops  re- 
g.  This  extra- 
a  and  Central 


DOir.V  THE  YANCTSi:. 


4T3 


China,  carrying  everything  before  it,  and  at  length  estab- 
lishiKl  itself  at  Nanking,  the  old  capital  of  a  former  dynasty. 
The  imperial  power  was  helpless  before  it,  and  to-day  China 
would  have  been  under  its  rule  and  have  become  a  sort  of 
mongrel  Christian  emi)ire,  hud  it  not  been  for  the  great  pow- 
ers of  Europe  which  combined  to  suppress  it,  and  especially 
for  Chinese  Gordon,  who  at  last  was  the  instrument  by  whom 
its  power  was  broken  and  its  capital  was  taken.  Nanking 
bears  the  most  tragic  marks  of  the  awful  drama.  It  seems 
very  strange,  after  thirty  years,  that  half  an  empire  should  so 
quickly  have  recovered  the  doctrines  of  a  Christianity  which 
to-day  it  so  detests.  No  doubt  much  of  its  success  was  duo 
to  force.  But  that  strange  spectacle  of  the  native  accepting 
Christianity  at  the  bidding  of  fanaticism  is,  at  least,  a  figure 
and  a  foreglimpse  of  the  day  when  China  shall  accept  the 
Gospel  at  tnc  invitation  of  the  Meek  and  Ijowly  One,  the  true 
Son  of  Heaven,  whose  only  weapon  is  the  Bible,  and  whose 
sole  compulsion  is  the  sweet  constraint  of  love. 

Some  have  almost  wished  that  the  powers  of  Europe  had 
not  interfered,  and  that  the  Taipings  had  been  allowed  ta 
succeed. 

No, — God  is  wiser  than  men.  A  counterfeit  Christianity 
would  be  worse  than  a  blind  and  cruel  Paganism.  Christ  can 
never  accept  a  homage  won  by  blood  and  tears,  or  a  triumph 
gained  by  any  other  power  than  His  own  grace  and  love. 
The  curse  of  Mohammedanism  to-day  is  that  it  has  incorpor- 
ated enough  Christianity  with  its  abominable  fanaticism,  ta 
seal  the  hearts  of  its  votaries  effectually  against  the  Gospel. 


k^ 


if 


414 


LARGER  or/ LOOKS  OX  M/SS/ON/I RY  LANDS. 


Thank  God,  China  has  escaped  the  curse  of  a  second  Islam, 
and  is  still  open  to  a  pure  Christianity. 

There  is  very  much  interesting  and  attractive  Christian 
work  in  Nanking.  It  was  opened  many  years  ago  by  one  of 
tho  old  veterans  of  the  China  Inland  Mission,  Mr.  Duncan, 
who  long  lived  and  l:i')ored  at  tho  most  famous  of  its  gates, 
tho  Drum  Towor.  But  this  Mission  has  moved  onto  less- 
occupied  fields,  and  the  mission  work  of  Nanking  is  all  of  a 
somewhat  conservative  type.  We  do  not  mean  by  this  that 
it  is  not  earnest,  aggressive  and  thoroughly  alive,  for  we  have 
not  met  more  congenial  spirits  and  rr.oro  earnest  workers 
anywhere,  but  that  it  is  of  that  type  usually  found  in  fields 
that  have  for  some  time  been  occupied,  and  where  the  work 
is  carried  on  chiefly  by  the  older  societies  and  methods. 

Wo  met  with  all  the  missionaries,  visited  several  of  their 
schools,  hospitals  and  homes,  and  saw  some  of  the  native 
congregations.  We  listened  vith  delight  to  a  rousing  Chinese 
sermon  by  our  dear  brother,  Mi.  Ferguson,  and  felt  it,  if  we 
did  not  understand  it,  and  we  could  not  fail  to  see  the  re- 
sponse on  the  faces  of  his  hearers.  We  had  the  pleasure  of 
preaching  a  little  to  them  through  ai\  interpreter,  and  we 
were  permitted  to  address  the  missionaries  on  Sabbath  even- 
ing, and  to  feel  the  deep  response  of  their  earnest  hearts  to 
our  simple  message  about  the  supreme  need  we  had  of  God 
Himself  in  all  our  life  and  work  for  Him. 

The  Northern  Presbyterians  have  an  excellent  work  here, 
with  a  fine  chapel  and  native  congregation  and  several  out 
stations.      The  Northern  Methodists  have  also  a  beautiful 


Mm 


kU. 


y  LANDS. 
a  second  Islam, 

•active  Christian 
.rs  ago  by  one  of 
on,  Mr.  Duncan, 
lous  of  its  gates, 
lovod  on  to  less- 
nking  is  all  of  a 
lean  by  this  that 
live,  for  we  have 
earnest  workers 
[y  found  in  fields 

where  the  work 
d  methods. 
\  several  of  their 
ne  of  the  native 

rousing  Chinese 
and  felt  it,  if  we 
ail  to  see  the  re- 
d  the  pleasure  of 
erpreter,  and  we 
)n  Sabbath  even- 
sarnest  hearts  to 
d  we  had  of  God 

ellent  work  here, 
and  several  out 
also  a  beautiful 


nOirJV  77/A"   VAXGTSE. 


415 


work,  and  our  kind  host  and  friend,  Mr.  FtTguson,  showed 
us  through  their  handsome  now  buildings,  one  of  them  the 
noble  gift  of  our  dear  friend,  Mr.  Blackstone,  and  told  us 
how  his  splendid  school  of  more  than  sixty  bright  boys  had 
all  grown  up  in  four  short  years.  This  Mission  was  once 
under  the  superintendence  of  Mr.  Hart,  at  one  time  a  si^cre- 
tary  of  our  Alliance  Mission.  His  pla(;e  is  now  filled  by 
Rev.  Mr.  Stevens,  who  has  only  been  two  or  three  years  in 
China,  and  his  success  shows  how  a  consecrated  and  judi- 
cious man,  with  a  j)ractical  training  and  experience  at  home, 
may  be  transplanted  to  the  foreign  field  at  once,  and  be 
greatly  used  of  God  in  the  administration  of  the  work  there, 
even  in  the  absence  of  a  long  experience  in  the  field.  More 
and  more  we  have  learned,  as  wo  have  looked  out  upon  the 
mission  work  of  many  fields,  that  a  good  superintendent  i^ 
worth  a  score  of  workers,  and  is  indispensable  in  any  aggres- 
sive work.  The  Methodists  have  also  a  fine  hospital  under 
the  care  of  Dr.  Beebe  and  others. 

The  Disciples  have  also  a  good  work  in  Nanking,  and 
our  dear  sister,  Ella  Saw,  formerly  Ella  Funk,  who  has  joined 
them,  was  there  with  her  good  husband  to  welcome  us,  and 
we  found  she  made  a  very  good  little  Disciple.  She  was 
happy  in  her  home  and  her  work,  and  had  the  same  bright 
girl-face  as  of  yore.  God  bless  her,  and  make  her  a  blessing 
to  these  dear  brethren  and  to  China  I 

The  Friends  of  America  have  also  a  Mission  in  Nanking 
under  the  care  of  Miss  Butler — now  in  America.  We  felt  at 
home  as  we  saw  the  familiar  face  of  our  beloved  brother. 


III 


P^BBBS'w«"t«»*''"=' • 


4l6      I.ARCF.R  OVTI.OOKS  ON  MISSION  Aft  Y  I.  IXPS. 

Asahol  Hussey  on  tlio  aviiU,  and  wore  delighti'd  to  llnd  that 
the  beautiful  building  was  bis  noblo  gift  to  the  Mission.  Our 
dear  Bister,  Miss  Murray,  was  visiting  ibis  bomo  at  the  tinio 
of  our  corning  to  Nanking,  and  bdping,  temporarily,  to  till 
tbo  place  of  Miss  Butler.  Wo  visited  ber  large  class  of  native 
women,  and  beard  tbem  repeat,  witb  astonisbing  readiness, 
most  of  tbo  fourteentb  cbapter  of  Jobn  in  Cbinese.  Tbeso 
Chinese  bave  astonisbing  memories.  Tbeir  Bcbolara  know- 
most  of  tbeir  classical  books  by  beart,  and  are  astonisbed 
wben  tbo  missionaries  cannot  repeat  tbo  wbole  Bible  without 

the  book. 

Altogether  we  bad  a  very  pleasant  visit  at  old  Nanking, 
and  were  well  repaid  for  our  tramp  of  four  or  five  mile» 
through  the  mud  the  next  morning  to  reach  our  steamer  for 
•  Shanghai.  The  chief  fault  of  Nanking  is  that  it  takes  so  long 
to  get  to  it  from  the  steamboat  landing,  and  at  this  season, 
especially,  there  is  almost  constant  slush  and  rain. 

On  our  way  down  we  stopped  at  Chin-Kiang,  the  most 
beautiful  city  on  all  the  river.  Our  stay  was  long  enough  to 
call  on  a  dozen  of  the  China  Inland  Missionaries  at  their 
Bweet  Christian  Home  under  the  oversight  of  Dr.  Cox,  and 
also  to  meet  some  dear  Southern  Presbyterian  brethren  on 
their  way  to  the  interior.  We  could  not  help  taking  a  long- 
ing look  up  the  Grand  Canal  toward  the  distant  home  of  our 
dear  former  student,  Fannie  Smith,  now  Mrs.  Dr.  Woods, 
but  our  time  would  not  allow  the  long  journey  that  it  would 
take  to  reach  her.  But  we  were  comforted  at  hearing  from 
many  old  friends  of  her  bright  and  blessed  life  in  China,  the 


/  txns. 

ted  to  find  that 
lO  Mission.  Our 
imo  at  tho  time 
iiporarily,  to  ftU 
50  class  of  native 
shing  readiness, 
Chinese.  Those 
V  (scholars  know 
are  astonished 
lie  Bihlo  without 

at  old  Nanking, 
ur  or  five  miles 
,  our  steamer  for 
it  it  takes  so  long 
I  at  this  season, 
1  rain. 

Kiang,  the  most 
3  long  enough  to 
ionaries  at  their 
of  Dr.  Cox,  and 
rian  brethren  on 
lip  taking  a  long- 
tant  home  of  our 
kirs.  Dr.  Woods, 
ley  that  it  would 
.  at  hearing  from 
[ife  in  China,  the 


'?S«i 


DOH'.V  THE   y.iyCTSE. 


417 


land,  indeed,  of  her  birth.  Neither  could  ve  tarry  to  visit 
the  Ladies'  Home  of  the  C.  I.  M..  at  Vangchow,  as  wo  had 
hoped,  but  we  received  a  kind  letter,  on  our  way  down,  from 
the  lady  in  charge,  and  met  at  Chin-Kiang  some  of  the  dear 
girls  with  whom  we  had  crossed  the  Mediterranean,  five 
months  ago.  We  have  heard  nuxrh  of  this  hallowed  place, 
and  believe  that  to  its  influence  is  largely  due,  imder  God, 
the  wonderful  vv  ork  which  the  ladies  of  this  Mission  are  able 
to  accomplish  in  the  difficult  fields  of  the  interior. 

We  took  on  board  at  Chin-Kiang  some  dear  Norwegian 
brethren  who  came  on  with  us  to  Shanghai,  and  with  whorii 
we  had  Christian  fellowship  in  the  things  of  Christ  and  His 
work.  Mr.  Stevens,  of  Nanking,  was  also  on  board,  and  we 
had  a  short  and  pleasant  sail  under  the  care  of  the  most  ac- 
complished and  agreeable  Christian  captain  that  we  have 
met  for  many  a  day.  And  so,  once  more,  we  reached 
Shanghai,  and  were  soon  in  the  hands  of  hosts  of  friends  and 
settled  again  in  our  little  chamber  in  the  blessed  Home  at 
Woosung  Road,  hurrying  through  our  letters  for  the  nett 
mail,  and  preparing  for  our  next  journey  to  the  far  North. 
We  had  been  just  three  weeks  up  and  down  the  Yangtse, 
and  had  got,  at  least,  a  glimpse  of  the  great  heai-t  of  China. 


XXIII. 

TO  THE  NORTHERN  CAPITAL. 

OUK  northern  journey  was  delayed  and  almost  pre- 
vented by  an  nnexpected  detention  in  Shanghai 
through  tlie  serious  illness  and  derangement  of  one 
of  our  Swedish  brethren.  We  were  glad  to  be  there  at  this 
critical  time,  and  that  the  responsibility  was  not  left  to  fall 
wholly  upon  others,  who  had,  perhaps,  no  right,  save  that  of 
common  discipleship  and  humanity,  to  bear  it. 

The  climate  of  Northern  China  is  exceedingly  trying  to 
persons  subject  to  nervous  and  brain  diseases,  and  much  care 
should  be  exercised  in  the  selection  of  missionaries  for  this 
field. 

'  At  length,  after  a  delay  of  four  days,  we  wore  again  at 
Be».  in  one  of  the  many  steamships  that  run  between  Shang- 
hai and  Tientsin.  We  were  on  the  Yellow  Sea  ;  and,  for  at 
least  a  certain  part  of  its  course,  it  was  worthy  of  its  name. 
The  outpouring  of  the  Yangtse  and  the  Yellow  rivers  have 
given  its  waters  the  tint  of  yellow  mud,  at  least  near  the 
estuaries  of  these  streams.  It  was  moderately  favorable 
weather,  although  bitter  cold.  We  had  some  very  congenial 
Scotch  friends  on  board,  missionaries  of  the  China  Inland 
Mission  on  their  way  to  Chefoo,  with  their  little  children. 

One  of  the  brethren  was  going  to  take  charge  of  the  excel- 

418 


JIWHBiJ.es 


r^-mm- 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  CAPITAL. 


419 


*AL. 

md  almost  pre- 
)n  in  Shanghai 
mgement  of  one 
)  be  there  at  this 
IS  not  left  to  fall 
ight,  save  that  of 
it. 

jdingly  trying  to 
s,  and  much  care 
isionaries  for  this 

Bve  wore  again  at 
\  between  Shang- 
Sea  ;  and,  for  at 
'thy  of  its  name, 
illow  rivers  have 
at  least  near  the 
erately  favorable 
ne  very  congenial 
;he  China  Inland 
ir  little  children, 
irge  of  the  excel- 


lent Boys'  School  at  Chefoo,  and  the  other,  with  his  family, 
to  take  a  season  of  rest  at  the  China  Inland  Mission  Sani- 
tarium there.  We  had  a  quiet  Sabbath  service  together,  and 
nmch  i)recious  Christian  fellowship. 

Two  days'  sail  brought  us  to  the  bold  promontory  of 
Shantung,   and  on  Monday  morning  early  we  anchored  in 
the  harbor  of  Chefoo,  and  saw  the  pretty  hills  rising  on  every 
side  of  the  lovely  harbor,  with  many  foreign  buildings  and 
missionary  compounds  and  premises  crowning  their  slopes. 
Away  to  the  right  we  could  see  Temple  Hill,  the  headquar- 
ters  of  the  American  Presbyterian  Mission  of  North  China, 
where  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Nevins  has  just  invited  us  to  visit  them 
and  their  work,  and  whence  Dr.  Corbett  had  just  returned 
to  America  to  tell  of  the  great  blessing  which  God  had  been 
pouring  out  upon  that  most  successful  and  substantial  work. 
To  the  left  was  the  hospital  of  the  China  Inland  Mission, 
under  the  care  of  Dr.  Eandall,  formerly  so  well  known  to  our 
people  in  New  York.     Just  behind  the  bold  hill,  on  the  shore, 
were  the  Schools  and  Sanitoi-ium  of  the  China  Inland  Mission. 
Their  school  boat,  manned  by  a  band  of  noble-looking  boys 
from  the  school,  was  already  coming  oui  to  meet  us,  and  soon 
our  feet  had  touched  the  beautiful  sandy  beach  and  entered 

their  hospitable  doors. 

We  had  only  time,  while  our  steamer  tarried,  to  sit  down 
with  a  blessed  company  of  missionaries  to  breakfast,  and  then 
to  spend  all  the  time  we  could  with  our  two  precious  AlUance 
lambs,-Mabel  and  Bertha  Cassidy,  who  are  here  at  school. 
It  was  a  mutual  joy  to  meet  them,  and  to  find  them  happy, 


^^^m^^^^f^m 


i^s^mmmm 


rr 


420 


LARCFR  OUTLOOKS  ON  MrsSfOyARY  LANDS. 


contented  and  making  excellent  progress  in  their  studies^ 
while  their  record  for  good  conduct  was  simply  perfect. 
Mabel  was  as  wise  as  a  little  mother,  and  Bertha  was  so  like 
her  own  mother  as  to  make  the  resemblance  in  her  sweet 
little  face  almost  anmsiug.  Their  dear  mother  is  to  spend 
her  vacation  with  them  here,  and  it  will  be  a  well-earned  joy 
to  all  of  them.  This  admirable  school  is  a  great  privilege 
and  advantage,  not  only  to  the  families  of  the  China  Inland 
Mission,  but  to  the  children  of  all  the  missionaries  in  China. 
There  are  two  distinct  sections  for  girls  and  boys,  and  both 
are  admirably  conducted  and  highly  appreciated  by  the  whole 
missionaiy  comnmnity. 

Chefoo  is,  probably,  the  healthiest  place  in  China.  It  is 
a  great  summer  resort  for  all  the  Europeans  in  the  country. 
It  is  situated  on  a  bold  promontory,  and  open  to  the  breezes 
of  the  ocean.  It  stands  on  a  considerable  elevation,  and  has 
pretty  scenery  and  a  beautiful  sandy  beach,  reminding  one 
of  our  of^ean  resorts  at  home.  Its  native  name  is  Yent-ai, 
and  by  this  it  is  known  on  most  of  the  maps.  It  is  a  treaty 
port,  and  famous  as  the  place  where  one  of  our  most  import- 
tant  treaties  with  China  was  signed.  Its  population  is  not 
large,  perhaps  40, 000,  and  its  foreign  trade  about  $12,000,000 
yearly. 

We  were  obliged  to  defer  our  visit  to  the  Presbyterian 
and  other  Missions  at  Chefoo  until  our  return  trip  from  the 
North,  and  hurry  again  on  board  our  steamer  for  Tientsin. 

Another  day  along  the  pretty  shore  of  Shantung  brought 
US  to  the  mouth  of  the  Peiho  River.    Getting  happily  over 


LANDS. 


TO  THE  XORTHERX  CAPITAL. 


421 


I  their  studies^ 
simply  perfect, 
tha  was  so  like 
le  in  her  sweet 
her  is  to  spend 
well-earned  joy 

great  privilege 
le  China  Inland 
laries  in  China. 

hoys,  and  both 
;ed  by  the  whole 


the  bar  without  delay,  we  had  a  seven  hours'  sail  up  the 
marrow  and  crooked  river  to  the  great  Northern  Port  of 
Tientsin.  There  is  a  railway,  the  first  in  China,  running  be- 
tween Taku,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  and  Tientsin.  But  the 
■oc(!rn  steamers  go  up  to  the  city,  about  sixty  miles  distant. 
The  water  is  shallow,  the  channel  is  narrow,  and  the  difficul- 
ties of  navigation  are  very  considerable.  On  our  way  down 
we  ran  ashore,  and  had  to  wait  nearly  half  a  day  for  the  tide 


in  China.  It  is 
in  the  country, 
to  the  breezes 
jvation,  and  has 
,  reminding  one 
lame  is  Yent-ai, 
It  is  a  treaty 
ur  most  import- 
opulation  is  not 
bout  11 2,000, 000 

he  Presbyterian 
rn  trip  from  the 
r  for  Tientsin, 
lantung  brought 
ng  happily  over 


THE  TAKU  FORTS. 

to  rise  and  hft  us  off.  Sometimes  the  ships  have  to  wait 
much  longer.  But  the  Chinese  will  do  little  to  remedy  these 
«vils.  It  was  a  great  thing  for  them  to  suffer  this  much  of  a 
railway  to  be  built  at  all,  but  very  much  of  the  trade  still 
comes  by  the  old  and  crooked  river,  and  the  difficulties  in 
getting  from  the  train  to  the  steamer  at  Taku  are  so  great 
that  most  of  the  passenger  traffic  comes  through  direct  by 
steamer.    Chinese  railways  are  yet  in  a  very  immature  in- 


422        LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  AflSSIONARV  LANDS. 


ON  THE  PEIHO  RIVER. 


fancy.  There  is  one  other  being  constructed  on  the  Yangtsd 
by  the  Viceroy  of  Wuchang,  to  carry  iron  from  a  great 
mine,  for  the  purpose  of  constructing  railway  ties  ;  and  some 
day  it  is  expected  that  a  line  will  connect  Peking  with  Han- 
kow. 


"H 


JO  THE  SORTHKKN  ClI'I/.U.. 


423 


Notwitlistamling  the  many  things  that  strike  a  foreigner 
as  very  far  behind  our  Western  Civilization,  yet  it  must  be 
recognized  that  this  part  of  China  has  made  gigantic-  progress 
in  a  single  generation.     There  is  ahnost  a  daily  line  of  ocean 
steamships  between  Shanghai  and  Tientsin,   and  many  of 
them  are  owned  by  native  Chinese  merchants.     There  is  one 
man  in  China  who  has  given  a  greater  impulse  to  Chinese 
progress  than  all  others.     That  man  is  Li-Hung-Chang,  the 
Vicei-oy  of  the  Province  of  Chih-li,  and  the  most  inHuential 
statesman  and  business  man  in  China.  He  is  a  very  rich  man, 
and  owns  large  interests  in  all  the  ships  and  trading  (!om- 
panies  on  the  coast.     He  is  the  conti.lential  adviser  of  the 
Emperor,   and  intimate  with  all   the  leading  foreigners  ia 

China. 

Li-Huug-Chang  seems  to  be  an  enigma,  like  everythmg 
Chinese,  and  we  have  heard  very  opposite  opinions  about 
him  and  his  attitude  toward  foreigners  and  Christianity  ;  but 
from  all  we  have  heard,  we  have  no  doubt  that  lie  is  an  as- 
tute and  most  gifted  Chinaman,  who  fully  appreciates  the 
value  of  foreign  ideas  and  improvements,  and  desires  to  make 
all  out  of  the  foreigner  he  can  for  himself  and  his  country, 
and  at  the  same  time  give  him  as  little  power  as  he  can  help. 
By  some  who  know  him  personally  and  intimately,  we  have 
been  assured  that  he  is  not  specially  unfriendly  to  Chris- 
tianity, as  he  has  been  represented  to  be,  and  that  Lady  Li,  so 
intimately  Unked  with  the  life  and  work  of  Dr.  Mackenzie 
and  Dr.  Howard,  in  Tientsin,  was  undoubtedly  at  heart  a  sin- 
cere inquirer,  and,  it  is  believed  by  tlose  who  know  her  best, 
a  disciple  of  Jesus  Christ. 


■     31 


i  s 


424 


r.ARCF.R  nr'Tf.ook's  ox .v/.ssmx.tR}'  /..ixp.'j. 


1 1 


P.ut  wliile  we  liave  been  digressing  and  discnssing,  we 
have  got  almost  I'p  the  Peiho,  to  our  destination.  Yonder 
are  the  high,  smoking  (chimneys  of  Tientsin.  Before  we  get 
there,  let  lis  look  about  us,  a  moment,  at  the  country  through 
which  we  are  passing.  We  are  ascending  a  narrow  serjten- 
tine  stream,  not  more  tliaii  one  or  two  hiuidred  yards  wide, 
and  continually  doubling  on  itself.  Now  it  is  north,  now 
east,  now  south,  and  again  due  west,  in  its  sinuous  course. 
The  country  through  which  we  are  ])assing,  is  wholly  differ- 
ent from  anything  we  have  yet  seen.  It  is  a  purely  farming 
district,  strongly  resembling  a  western  prairie,  when  all  the 
crops  are  gre?n.  Oi-eans  of  verdure  swee])  away  to  the  hori- 
zon, millions  of  acres  of  wheat,  barley,  millet,  Indian  corn, 
beans,  sweet  potatoes,  interspersed  with  peach  trees  in  great 
profusion,  and  other  foliage.  It  is  really  a  pretty  sight,  and 
makes  one  think  of  home.  The  climate  is  very  similar  to 
that  of  one  of  our  northern  states,  only  a  little  hotter  in  sum- 
mer, aiad  a  little  colder  in  winter. 

There  aie  thousands  of  villages  all  along  the  river  bank, 
all  neatly  built  of  mud  or  brick,  and  usually  roofed  with  tile. 
The  people  literally  swarm,  and  they  all  have  a  fairly  com- 
fortable look.  The  country  peojjle  of  Shantung  and  Cbih-li, 
are  usually  a  thrifty,  industrious  class  of  farmers,  not  un- 
Avortbv  of  comparison  Avith  the  peasanty  of  many  European 
countries. 

But  here  we  are  at  Tienisiu,  and  again  we  recognize  the 
foreign  Bund,  with  the  handsome  European  buildings,  and 
its  long  front  of  business  offices  and  warehouses.     Probably 


/..I. YDS. 

(liscnissing,  we 
ition.     Yonder 

Before  we  get 
)untry  through 
narrow  Herjien- 
red  yards  wide, 

is  north,  now 
f<inuou8  course. 
3  wholly  differ- 
purely  farming 
i,  when  all  the 
.^ay  to  the  hori- 
>t,  Indian  corn, 
h  trees  in  great 
•etty  sight,  and 
very  similar  to 

hotter  in  sum- 

the  river  hank, 
oofed  with  tile. 
re  a  fairly  com- 
ng  and  Chih-li, 
irmers,  not  un- 
iiany  European 


e  recognize  the 

buildings,  and 

ises.     Piobably 


'I 


CHINESE  SLIPPER  BOAT 


Reproduction  from  b  Chiiiest  I'iiiiiliiiK 


rl 


TO  nil:  .Si>Niiii:K.\  i  .irrr.u.. 


425 


it  ranks  tliitd  aftHi-  Haiikou  and  Hhangliai  as  a  Treaty  Port 
and  (toinnu'rcial  contn!. .  Its  fonMgn  trade,  as  estimated  by 
tlie  Customs'  returns,  amounts  to  ^:17,(>oo,0(K),  and  tlie  vast 
native  (ntv  lias  a  population  of  5oo,(mmi.  It  is  the  homo  of 
Li-Hung-Chang,  and  wo  passed  his  palace,   which  is  simply 


TIENTSIN. 


a  large  collection  of  low,  plain-looking  buildings,  enclosed 
behind  a  high  wall.  He  is  said  to  live  in  great  simplicity, 
and  requires  his  sons  to  do  the  same,  while  he  has  several 
luxurious  apartments  furnished  in  foreign  style  for  his  nu- 
merous visitors. 


4^6         l.ARCER  OI'TLOOk'S  OX  MfSSrONARV  L.IXDS. 

We  wore  met  by  Mr.  Clark,  of  the  China  Inland  MiHHion, 
and  very  hospitably  entertained.  Wo  shall  lf>ng  retain  the 
roost  delightful  reiiollectiona  of  TientHin  and  its  blessed  mis- 
sionaries. We  had  a  two-fold  opixtrtunity  of  meeting  them, 
both  on  our  way  to  and  from  Peking. 

Ou  these  occasions  we  had  two  delightful  publitt  meet- 
ings with  them,  and  several  opportunities  of  seeing  them 
I)er8onally,  and  we  found  much  reason  to  tliank  God  for  their 
spirit  and  their  work.  This  is  the  business  centre  (»f  the 
China  Inland  Mission  for  Northern  China,  and  will  have  to 
be  ours  also  if  we  are  to  carry  on  much  work  in  the  Northern 
Provinces.  Tientsin  in  the  North,  and  Wuchang  or  Han- 
kow in  the  West,  are  the  natural  headquarters  and  jjoints  of 
departure  for  the  great  northwest,  the  most  unoccupie<l  sec- 
tion of  China,  and  our  ])rospective  mission  fields. 

For  the  present,  \mtil  we  can  send  a  proper  business 
agent,  Mr.  A.  J.  Bostwick,  of  the  American  Board,  is  kindly 
representing  our  work,  and  acting  as  a  channel  of  cotnmuni- 
cation  with  our  Swedish  friends  in  Shansi,  forwaiding  mails 
and  money,  and  puichasing  and  foi-warding  supplies.  He 
has  been  very  kind  and  helpful,  and  his  valuable  busin«!S8 
experience  and  counsel  are  fully  appreciated. 

Mr.  Clark  is  an  all-round  man  of  atfairs,  who  has  been 
over  much  of  China,  and  is  the  able  business  manager  of 
tbo  China  Inland  Mission  in  Tientsin.  He  has  a  big  heart, 
and  ready  hand,  and  has  been  of  invaluable  service  to  our 
Swedish  friends  on  their  journey  north. 

Among  the  Missionary  Societies  represented  in  Tientsin, 


■--mmmmir  -,  »!iiBBi!i" 


y  /..1.VDS. 

1  Inland  MiHwon, 

long  rotitin  the 

\  its  blessed  inis- 

f  nu'eting  them, 

,ful  public;  nieet- 
(»f  seeing  them 
ink  God  for  their 
SH  centre  of  the 
and  will  have  to 
c  in  the  Northern 
'uchang  oi-  Han- 
ters  ard  jtoints  of 
i  unoicnj)ied  sec- 
fields. 

L  proper  business 
I  Board,  is  kindly 
mel  of  tunimuni- 
forwarding  mails 
ing  sui)plies.  He 
valuable  business 
1. 

irs,  who  has  been 
liness  manager  of 
e  has  a  big  lieart, 
t)le  service  to  our 

ented  in  Tientsin, 


r<y  rill-:  son rniKX  capita i.. 


427 


the  work  of  the  Lond«»n  So<-iety  holds  \\  prominent  place.  It 
18,  perluum,  l)est  knowji  to  the  Christian  world  through  the 
life  and  labors  of  Di'.  Matken/if,  whose  biography  has  been 
go  ably  written  by  Mr.  Brys(»n  of  this  place,  and  whose  re- 
markable and  intimate  <H)nnection  with  the  Vio«'roy,  Li- 
Hung-Chang,  and  Lady  Li.  formed  so  important  an  entering 
wedge  in  the  eaily  days  of  Medical  Missions  in  China.  It 
will  be  remembered  by  our  readers  that  in  gratitude  t.)r  tho 
healing  of  his  wife,  Li-Hung-t  hang  founded  a  hospital  in 
Tientsin,  and  gave  it  up  to  the  exclusive  charge  of  Di'.  Mac- 
kenzie. Indeed,  it  was  always  regarded  as  given  to  the  Mis- 
sion. But,  on  the  death  of  Dr.  Mackenzie,  a  few  years  ago, 
the  Viceroy  claimed  the  property,  and  the  Mission  had  to 
give  it  back,  with  all  the  furniture,  and  a  large  amount  of 
money,  which  Dr.  Mackenzie  had  ace  lunulated  from  the  hos- 
pital funds  for  the  i>uri)ose  of  hosi)ital  improvement   . 

It  was  found  that  Dr.  Mackenzie  had  never  secured 
proper  papers  conveyin-  the  i)roperty.  and  the  Viceroy  sue- 
ceeded  in  oatablishin^  his  claim  to  it,  although  it  was  re- 
gariied  as  an  act  of  great  injustice  and  seltishness  by  many. 
It  is  still  carried  on  as  a  Chinese  Hospital  under  native  phy- 
sicians employed  In- the  Viceroy.  The  London  Society  has 
built  a  new  hospital,  and  we  were  glad  to  learn  that  a  nmcli 
larger  number  of  patients  come  to  it  than  go  to  the  native 
hospital  across  the  street. 

Dr.  Mfickenzie  was  a  most  remarkable  man  in  every  way, 
and  the  sweet  savor  of  his  life  lingers  in  Tientsin  on  every 
side.     He  was  an  extraordinary  physician,  but  a  more  extra- 


■■'-358SWi'i' 


428 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  O.V  MLSSLOXARV  L.lXns. 


ordinary  missionary.     His  medical  work  was  distinc-tly  sub- 
ordinate to  tlie  great  work  which   insi)ired  his  heart, — the 
evangehzation  of  China.     We  are  glad  to  say  that  God  has 
raised  up  a  successor  worthy  of  him.     Dr.  Koberts,  of  the 
London  Mission  of  Tientsin,  and  the   associate  and  successor 
of  Dr.  Mackenzie,  is  one  of   the  most  remarkable  men  we 
have  met  abroad.     Surely  he  had  found  his   predecessor's 
mantle,  and  he  has  filled  his  place,  even  in  the  estimation  of 
those  who  most  admired  Dr.  Mackenzie.     Without  dispara- 
ging any  of  the  many  devoted  medical  missionaries  we  have 
met  in  China,  nor  the  higher  value  of  the  Lord's  own  heahng, 
we  cannot  help  saying  that  the  practical  value  of  such  a  mis- 
sionary is  beyond  computation.     His  .gentle,  humble  spirit, 
his  fervid  piety  and  unction,  his  love  of  souls,  his  magnetic 
enthusiasm  for  the  glorious  work  of  missions,  are  far  more 
noticeable  than  his  distinguished  ability  as  a  physician,  and 
he  values  his  profession  as  an  agency  for  interestin;;  the 
Chinamen  in  Christ  and  the  (xospel. 

He  has  a  valuable  associate  in  Mrs.  King,  of  the  same 
Mission,  formerly  so  well  known  as  Dr.  Howard,  of  the  M. 
E.  Mission  of  America.  It  was  she  who  attended  Lady  Li,  iu 
lier  illness,  and  she  was  as  signally  used  in  that  remarkable 
providential  opening,  i>erhaps,  as  even  Dr.  Mackenzie.  We 
were  glad  to  have  the  opportunity  of  meeting  this  dear 
worker  and  spending  a  little  time  at  her  home.  She  is 
now  the  wife  of  one  of  the  most  prominent  missionaries  of 
the  London  Society.  Mr.  King,  of  Tientsin.  We  are  so  glad 
that  her  humble,  self-denying  piety  and  devotion  are  more 


l 


)'  /..l.\7KS: 

,s  distinctly  sub- 
l  his  lieart,— the 
lay  that  God  has 
Roberts,  of  the 
ite  and  successor 
larkable  men  we 
liis  predecessor's 
he  estimation  of 
Without  dispara- 
iiouaries  we  have 
rd's  own  healing, 
ue  of  such  a  mis- 
e,  humble  spirit, 
uls,  his  magnetic 
ons,  are  far  jnore 
)  a  physician,  and 
r   intorostin;;^  the 

Cing,  of  the  same 
oward,  of  the  M. 
ended  Lady  Li,  in 
1  that  remarkable 
Mackenzie.  We 
leeting  this  dear 
er  home.  She  is 
lit  missionaries  of 
We  are  so  glad 
ievotiou  are  more 


TO  THE  SORTUh.RX  C.lPfT.U.. 


4291 


conspicuous  than  even  her  professional  success.  She  has  en- 
tire charge  of  what  is  knowji  as  Lady  Li's  Hospital  for 
Women,  and  this,  we  are  glad  to  say,  is  still  the  hospital  of 
the  Mission,  having  been  erected  happily  on  Mission  ground. 
We  were  glad  to  be  able  to  ask  her  many  things  about  the' 
distinguished  family  she  had  such  opportunities  of  knowing, 
and  it  was  a  great  gratification  to  hear  her  say  that  while 
Lady  Li  had  not  formally  professed  Christianity  before  she 
died,  yet  she  expected  some  day  to  meet  her  in  heaven. 

We  had  the  opportunity  of  attending  a  Sabbath  morning 
service  in  the  London  Mission,  and  saw  one  of  the  brightest 
and  most  interesting  native  congregations  we  have  yet  wit- 
nessed. We  are  afraid  we  looked  more  at  the  costumes  of 
the  ladies  than  we  recommend  our  people  to  do  at  home,  but 
the  headdresses  of  the  women  were  so  different  from  any  we 
had  seen,  that  we  must  ho)je  to  be,  at  least,  leniently  judged. 
The  girls,  of  course,  as  elsewhere,  all  have  a  braided  cue 
hanging  behind.  But  the  married  women  have  their  hair 
tied  in  a  knot  behind,  and  then  an  extraordinary  curved  fig- 
ure, like  a  great  sweeping  plume,  or  more  like  the  tail  of  a 
pheasant,  sweeping  behind  and  giving  their  heads  the  av>pef tr- 
ance of  a  splendid  bird  in  flight.  Brilliant  rosettes  or  flowers, 
and  a  great  profusion  of  jewelry,  finished  the  picture,  and 
made  these  women  a  sight  sufficient  to  turn  the  head  of  an 
American  daughter  of  fashion.  We  are  afraid  the  daughters 
of  Tientsin  are  not  yet  up  to  the  apostolic  standard  on  the  dress 
question,  but  they  say  that  a  Chinese  woman  would  feel  as 
much  disgraced  if  she  went  without  her  jewelry,  as  she  would 
without  her  clothes. 


■1! 


430 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MLS'S/ONARV  LAXDS. 


We  had  the  pleasure  of  speaking  a  Uttle  to  this  audience, 
through  an  excellent  interpreter,  and  with  a  good  interpreter 
we  found  that,  by  using  a  simple  line  of  thought,  and  some 
striking  incident  or  illustration,  we  could  always  be  fairly 
understood,  and  meet  bright,  responsive  faces  and  hearts. 

Among  the   other  missionary  societies  represented  in 
Tientsin    are  the  American  Board,   the  M.   E.   Church  of 
America,  and  the  New  Connexion  Methodist  Church  of  Eng- 
land.    We  visited  them  all  and  were  received  with  the  great- 
est courtesy,  and  learned  of  nmch  encouraging  work  in  their 
midst.     Indeed,  the  work  in  North  China  is  in  a  more  hope- 
ful condition  than  in  any  other  section.     Our  space  will  not 
permit  us  to  speak  particularly  of  all.     We  were  invited  to 
meet  with  the  missionaries  of  the  various  societies,  and  ex- 
plain the  principles  and  methods  of  our  work.     There  has 
been  naturally  much  misunderstanding  about  our  Alliance, 
and  especially  in  connection  with  the  large  parties  of  Swedes 
that  have  recently  passed  through  Tientsin  on  their  way 
northward.     W^e  were  glad  to  have  the  opportunity  of  ex- 
])Ounding  our  principles  and  methods,  and  receiving  the  cor- 
dial assurance  of  their  sympathy  and  co-operation.     Rarely 
have  we  felt  more  unity  of  spirit  or  received  greater  kindness. 
When  they  found  that  we  were  to  leave  the  following 
day  for  Peking,  and  had  not  yet  secured  a  Chinese  interpreter 
for  the  long  overland  journey  which  would  be  so  difficult  for 
one  who  could  not  speak  a  word  of  Chinese,  two  of  the  mis- 
sionaries at  once  offered  to  leave  their  work  and  come  with 
us,  and  our  business  man  offered  to  send  his  office  boy.     We 


!Ry  LANDS. 

i  to  this  audience, 
a  good  interpreter 
bought,  and  some 
always  be  fairly 
:es  and  hearts. 
es  represented  in 
M.   E.   Church  of 
st  Church  of  Eng- 
ed  with  the  great- 
ging  w^ork  in  their 
is  in  a  more  hope- 
Our  space  will  not 
rVe  were  invited  to 
}  societies,  and  ex- 
work.     There  has 
ibout  our  Alliance, 
3  parties  of  Swedes 
tsin  on  their  way 
opportunity  of  ex- 
i  receiving  the  cor- 
operation.     Rarely 
(d  greater  kindness, 
eave  the  following 
Chinese  interpreter 
d  be  so  difficult  for 
3e,  two  of  the  rais- 
)rk  and  come  with 
his  office  boy.    We 


ro  THE  NORTHERN  CAPITAL. 


431 


accepted  the  otter  of  one  of  these  dear  brethren,  Rev.  Dr. 
Bryson,  of  the  London  Mission,  and  we  soon  found  what  a 
*'  friend  in  need,  and  a  friend  indeed,"  he  was,  and  how  well- 
nigh  impossible  it  would  have  been  for  us  to  get  on  without 

him. 

Wednesday  morning,  at  daybreak,  found  us  on  our  way 
to  Peking.    Our  outfit  consisted  of   two  Chinamen,   four 


»  CHINESE  CAB. 

mules,  two  carts  without  seats  or  springs,  a  roll  of  bedding, 
and  a  basket  of  provisions  for  a  two  days'  journey.  That 
ride !  WeU,  we  will  not  be  able  to  describe  it.  We  had  rid- 
den forty-five  miles  at  a  stretch,  and  as  much  back  again  the 
next  night,  in  a  Coolie  cart  in  India.  But  that  was  on  a  road 
as  smooth  as  a  floor.  But  this  Peking  road  was  unlike  any 
road  we  have  ever  known  or  seen  described,  or  imagined.  It 
led  sometimes  through  great  pools  of  water,  up  to  the  hubs, 


'■*SfeSW.SK.?!?>¥*'W** 


432       LARGER  OVTLOOKS  ON  MISSIOXARY  LAXPS. 

and  again  over  stone  roads  broken  up  into  gieat  lioles  two 
feet  deep,  through  which  our  cart  tluimped  and  bumped  like 
blows  from  a  maul ;  and  yet  again  more  f recpiently  it  was 
cut  into  deep  ruts  down  literally  to  the  hubs.    It  seemed  as 
if  all  the  generations  of  China  had  gone  before  us  in  these 
ruts.     And  with  a  strange  fascination  the  driver  would  insist 
on  always  keeping  the  wheels  right  in  the  bottom  of  the  rut. 
Often  there  was  a  smoother  i)lace  beside  it,  but  -oh  !  no,  it 
would  never  do  for  a  Chinaman  to  get  out  of  the  rut  his  pre- 
decessor had  gone  in  before.     We  came  soon  to  look  on  our 
mule  driver  and  our  journey  as  typical  of  the  Chinese  nation 
and  Chinese  history-C/i/na  in  a  rut !    That  is  just  what  has 
been  going  on  for  four  thousand  years.     China  is  doing  what 
it  always  has  done.    The  same  sort  of  carts,  with  the  same 
sort  of  mules,  and  the  same  sort  of  Chinamen,  have  been  go- 
ing in  the  same  sort  of  roads  in  the  same  sort  of  way  since 
before  the  time  of  Abraham.    The  Chinaman  never  wants  to 
change  anything.     If  a  bar  is  at  the  mouth  of  a  river  it  must 
stay  there  ;  if  a  house  is  abandoned  it  must  be  left  to  faU 
down  at  its  pleasure  ;  if  a  man  falls  into  the  river  he  must 
not  be  disturbed  or  interfered  with ;  if  a  road  was  good 
enough  for  your  father  it  is  good  enough  for  you  ! 

Well,  we  started.  There  was  nothing  for  it  but  to  prop 
yourself  up  as  well  as  possible  with  pillows  in  the  bottom 
of  the  cart  and  try  to  find  a  Roft  spot  somewhere.  And  so  it 
began  to  bump  and  thump,  from  side  to  side,  until  first  our 
back  seemed  on  the  point  of  dislocation,  and  then  our  insides 
to  be  shaken  like  buttermilk  in  a  churn,  and  then  our  head 


J'  I.AXDS. 


"1 


great  lioles  two 
and  bumped  like 
f  reciuently  it  was 
bs.    It  ^5eemed  as 
efore  us  in  these 
river  would  insist 
)ottoni  of  the  rut. 
t,  but— oh  !  no,  it 
[)i  the  rut  his  pre- 
)n  to  look  on  our 
he  Chinese  nation 
it  is  just  what  has 
lina  is  doing  what 
rts,  with  the  same 
len,  have  been  go- 
sort  of  way  since 
lan  never  wants  to 
1  of  a  river  it  must 
ust  be  left  to  fall 
the  river  he  must 
a  road  was  good 
for  you  ! 

;  for  it  but  to  prop 
)ws  in  the  bottom 
jwhere.  And  so  it 
nde,  until  first  our 
nd  then  our  insides 
and  then  our  head 


I 


BUFFALOS  AND  CART. 


KcprocUiclion  IVom  a  CliilH'--t  I'liinliiig 


s 


m 


■Jll  Tin:  .VOKTZ/KK-V  CA/'ITAI.. 


433 


that  L  c„v,l,l  not  think  ,:lea,-ly.  m„l  th.  .uu«-  os  "«  "  '  "^^   "^ 
of  ,„„■  neck  a,hea  a»  if  th.y  luul  been  V-^^'^^,  '"^ 
ana,  inde«,l,  our  whole  sy.ten>  felt  exactly  hke  a  .a    n    st 
feel  after  he  had  been  shaken  by  a  temer.     lalk  ot  sea^^uk 
;;:;!    It  is  abed  ,.f  down  to  a  Peking  .cul  and  as„ell  of  .a.t 

"*"weU,  we  had  twenty  miles  of  it  befo.e-' tiffin,"  and  a 
.e,.ysmaUan.ountof  cooking  sumeed  to  -t.sfy  onv  ..^W 
ItoL-hs  and  then  we  had  twenty  .niles  n.ore  after     t.Biu 
:  tU  w    .'eached  the  Chinese  inn  about  dark,  .here  wo  were 
to  dine  and  rest  for  the  night.    It  w.«  a  very  fa.v  .nn  much 
letter  than  we  expected,  an,l  we  got  out  our  baske     and 
infused  our  tea  and  cooked  our  eggs  and  nee,  and  ti.cdto 
el  :  r    "ten  ;orized  dinner,  and  then  lay  down  on  our 
Te  Iding  on  the  Chinese  benches  they  call  beds.     But  oh  -.  the 

::r„;:fingbraiu.andthe,,.— ^^^^ 

:tr;;:^d!::c^~urkrfot:ta^ 

rfon   T  lite     And  at  length  we  fell  .«leep  praismg  pmymg, 

gfonsuch  journeys  for  twelve  and  twenty  days  at  a  fme 
into  the  vast  interior. 

We  were  awakened,  after  four  hom-s  of  sleep,  at  two 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  to  begin  another  day  of  sundar  travel^ 
"inf  We  got  off  a  good  while  Wore  dayhght,  and  about 
fou;  o'Ick  we  were  cheered  by  a  glorious  sunnse.    All  day 


1 


' 


I 


434 


/..fAVVAA'  Ol'TLOOk'S  OX  MrsS/ONARV  /.AXDS. 


\\  %.>\^ 


U 


fi!    if 


long  we  rattled  on,  btopi)ing  only  for  lunch,  until  about  sun- 
set we  saw  before  us  the  gigantic  walls  of  Peking,  and  knew 
that  our  long  journey  of  eighty  miles  and  thirty  hours  of 
cart  traveUing  was  almost  ended.  The  second  day  wo  were 
not  nearly  so  tired.  Our  system  seemed  to  have  got  used  to 
it,  and  we  felt  that  after  a  few  days,  with  a  good  deal  of 
grace  and  patience,  one  could  get  inured  even  to  a  Chinese 
cart. 

But  as  we  looked  at  that  splendid  Capital,  we  felt  that  it 
AVfxs  an  (Hitrage  that  the  metropolis  of  tlie  greatest  Empire 
on  earth  should  liave  such  an  approach  to  it. 

The  country   through  wliich  we  had  passed  was  most 
interesting.     It  was  puiely  a  farming  district.     But  such 
farming !  We  wish  some  of  the  fossil  farmers  of  the  west, 
who  have  worn  out  their  land  by  ignorance  and  stupidity, 
could  only  come  and  see  one  of  these  so-called  barbarians  till 
the  soil.   Every  scpiare  inch  of  ground  for  miles,  and  hundreds 
of  miles,  is  covered  with  the  most  beautiful  and  luxuriant  veg- 
etation.    Every  sort  of  grain  and  vegetable  is  raised  in  the 
greatest  profusion  and  perfection.     Not  a  weed  is  to  be  seen 
nor  an  inch  of  waste  or  neglected  ground.     Between  the 
rows  of  wheat  and  corn  something  else  is  planted,— melons, 
pumpkins,  beans,  sweet  potatoes,  or  some  other  vegetable  to 
come  on  when  the  other  is  cut  down.     Three  splendid  crops 
a  year  are  raised  even  in  this  far  northern  climate — the  lati- 
tude of  our  northern  States  -and  yet  the  land  is  not  exhaust- 
ed.    It  is  all  most  carefully  fertilized,  and  every  crumb  of 
manure  is  gathered  and  put  back  into  the  soil.     The  culture 


II 


\T  f.ixns. 

li,  until  about  sun- 
Poking,  and  knew 
lul  tliirty  liours  of 
cond  day  we  were 
,0  have  got  used  to 
ith  a  good  deal  of 
even  to  a  Chinese 

ital,  we  felt  that  it 
e  greatest  Empire 
it. 

passed  was  most 
listrict.     But  such 
■mers  of  the  west, 
mce  and  stupidity, 
ailed  barbarians  till 
niles,  and  hundreds 
and  luxuriant  veg- 
ible  is  raised  in  the 
weed  is  to  be  seen 
und.     Between  the 
s  planted, — melons, 
}  other  vegetable  to 
liree  splendid  crops 
•n  climate — the  lati- 
land  is  not  exhaust- 
rid  every  crumb  of 
e  soil.     The  culture 


TO  THE  AOKT/IER^'  CAPllAL. 


435 


A  CHI^JESe  FARM  HOUSE. 


is  mostly  by  hand,  and  the  whole  land  looks  like  a  luxuriant 
garden  We  saw  no  trees  except  orchards  till  we  reached 
the  neighborhood  of  Peking,  and  then  we  began  to  find  some 
groves  of  forest  trees.  There  were  a  good  many  wild  flowers 
along  the  wayside,  especially  daisies  of  many  colors,  a  few 
prinxroses  and  a  great  many  varieties  of  the  dwarf  convolvu- 
lus. 


in 


LAKCER   Of^Tr.OOk'S  O.V  .1f/SS/0\'.fUV  rANPS. 

Tho  poasantry  seeme<l  to  be  a  quiet,  industriouB  atid  in- 
offennivc  people.  Wo  listened  to  many  c-onversatious  that 
were  tranHlate.1  to  us,  and  we  consider  the  Chinese  farn.er  an 
bright  and  intelligent  as  nuiny  of  our  own  worknig  people, 
and  a  good  deal  more  so  than  the  laboring  classes  m  many 
distric^ts  of  Englan.l  and  Germany  We  beg  to  assure  our 
readers  that  these  pi'uple  are  wortL  saving,  and  that  it  will 
need  a  very  sensible,  shrewd,  and  wide-awake  man  or  woman 
to  win  their  respect  and  c;onfldence. 

The  walls  .  -f  Peking  are  magnifies  nt.     They  are,  at  least, 
forty  feet  high  and  forty  feet  wide  at  the  top.     We  went  up, 
and  walked  on  them  partly  round  the  city,  and  found  the  top 
of  the  walls  was  a  finely  paved  way,  on  which  you  could  go 
round  the  whole  city.     The  angles  of  the  walls  at  c.-rtain 
points  are  crowned  by  lofty  superstructures,  like  massive 
towers,    carried   up,    perhaps,   fifty    or   sixty    feet    above 
the  walls,  and  -iving  an  appearance  of  great  magnificence 
from  a  distance.     Peking,  at  least  in  its  frame  and  general 
plan,  is  worthy  of  its  imperial  importance,  and  has  about  it 
a  certain  air  of  majesty.     And  even  when  you  get  inside  and 
fairiy  examine  it,  you  feel  it  is  unique  among  all  other  cities, 
and  certainly  greatly  superior  to  any  other  place  m  China. 

It  is  usually  divided  into  three  cities,  viz.:  the  Chinese, 
the  Tartar,  and  the  Imperial.  The  latter,  however,  is  hardly 
a  city,  but  rather  a  Palace  Enclosure,  detached  from  the 
Tartar  city.  The  Chinese  city  is  on  the  south  side,  enclosed 
by  separate  walls,  covering  a  space  of,  perhaps,  five  by  three 
miles,   and  a  population  of  between   a  quarter  and  half  a 


ustrious  and  in- 
iversjitions  that 
lilies*'  farin«r  as 
working  ix'ople, 
classes  in  many 
>g  to  assure  our 
and  that  it  -will 
( man  or  woman 

hey  are,  at  least, 
).  We  went  up, 
nd  found  the  top 
ich  you  could  go 

walls  at  ceitain 
•es,  like  massive 
xty  feet  above 
eat  magnificence 
ranie  and  general 

and  has  about  it 
'^ou  get  inside  and 
ig  all  other  cities, 
place  in  China, 
viz. :  the  Chinese, 
lowever,  is  hardly 
(Hached  from  the 
)uth  side,  enclosed 
tiaps,  five  by  three 
uarter  and  half  a 


TO  THE  SORTIII.KS'  (  WPITAI. 


437 


million.  The  Tartar  <ity  is  on  the  north  side,  and  is  much 
larger  than  theCiiineso.  with  a  population  of  nearly  a  million. 
The  streets  an*  wide  and  the  buildings  nnuh  suin'rior  i<i  Cen- 
tral and  Southern  Chinese  cities.     They  are  nearly  all  of 


—  »-».»■"■'. 


WESTERN  GATE,   PEKING. 


brick  and  roofed  with  tiles.  The  roofs  have  a  pretty,  concave 
form,  and  the  eaves  and  cornices  are  often  ornamented  and 
highly  colored  in  imitation  of  green,  red  and  many  colored 
tiles.     There  are  a  good  many  temples,  and  some  of  them  are 


438 


L.iKCFK  OCTLOOKS  OX  <l//.S.SVOAV/AT  /.1N/)S. 


somewhat  handsoni.-  Kv.-rywhoro  theio  ato  ovidcncoH  of 
thoir  boli.'f  iiitlH.  (>m<a<y  of  tlu-ir  supoistition^.  Wo  pasHod 
ai  iinnu'nse  shiino  coveml  with  native  inscriptioiiH,  tclHngof 
prayei-H  that  had  been  answered  thoiv.  On  a  great  tal)let  was 
insrrihed  tlio  sentence:  "If  y(ni  ask  you  shall  surely  re- 
ceive  "'  Tlie  day  of  our  arrival  it  was  annou need  that  the 
Emperor  had  that  morning  visite.l  the  Tempi.-  of  Heaven 
and  juayed  for  fair  weather. 

Our  visit  was  short,  hut  busy   and  deeply  interesting. 
Only  two  nights  could  we  venture  to  stay  without  risking 
our  return  to  Shanghai  in  time  to  catch  our  steamer  for 
Japan.     But  we  were  able  to  accomplish  nmch  of  what  was 
on  our  heart.     We  had  come  this  journey  of  a  fortnight  not 
to  see  a  Chinese  capital,  but  to  visit  our  dear  missionaries, 
and  come  into  touch  with  the  other  dear  workers  in  the  same 
vineyard.     Very  little  time  did  we  spend  in  sight  seeing.  We 
took  our  walk  on  the  walls  in  com[.any  with  a  missionary 
friend,  and  we  were  able  to  look  southward  over  the  vast 
Chinese  city,  away  to  the  Temple  of  Heaven  on  the  extreme 
Bouthern  Ixnder.  and  to  learn  that  there  was  but  one  Mis- 
sionary Chai.fcl  for  all  this  vast  populati.-n.     We  were  able  to 
look  northward  over  the  Tartar  city,  th.'  wall  on  which  we 
stood  intersecting  the  two  cities,  and  see  its  vast  extent.     At 
our  feet  were  pointed  out  the  various  foreign  Legations,  and 
we  look  right  down  on  the  handsome  compounds  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Society  at  our  feet,  and  farthei-  in  the 
distance,  located  the  Presbyterian,  London  and  A.  B.  0.  F.  M. 
premises. 


)•  I  ,wns. 

If  ovi<lencoH  of 
ions.  W«)  passed 
iptions,  tolling  of 
^ti'iit  tablet  was 
Bhall  Burely  re- 
iioiiiued  tliat  tho 
nipU'  of   lloavt'U 

't'ply  intereatiiiK- 
without  riskiiiK 
oiii'  Hteamer  for 
mil  of  what  wan 
[  a  fortnight  not 
ear  n)i8sionaiieH, 
irk(Ms  in  the  sarno 
sight  seeing.  We 
ith  a  missionary 
ird  over  the  vast 
n  on  the  extreme 
was  but  one  Mis- 
W»'  were  able  to 
wall  on  whicli  we 
3  vast  extent.     At 
gn  Legations,  and 
ompounds  of  the 
lid  farther  in  the 
and  A.  B.  0.  V.  M. 


"  h 


jLMin— nrnrrmi 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  CAPI'lAL. 


439 


THE   ROYAL  PALACE. 

We  walked  about  a  mile  along  the  wall  until  we  came 
right  over  the  Imperial  city,  and  could  see  the  Palace  build- 
ings within  the  enclosure.  Here  the  Emperor  lives  in  soli- 
tary grandeur.  He  is  young  and  feeble- looking,  judging  by 
his  photograph.     He  seldom  goes  o\it  of  these  <iuarters  ex- 


'     1 


.JmitU' 


•  >\i's.-^'V^,'^'^*ft'nvr-^ 


^1:1 


!   1^ 


440      /-'A'6Y:A'  m'Tf.oohs  OX  MfSsroxAh'v  f.A.wns. 

cept  to  prayer  \n  the  temples,  and  then  all  the  cross  streets 
opening  into  the  line  of  his  niarcli  are  boarded  up  that  no 
eye^  may  he  permitted  to  desecrate  his  sacredness  hy  an  un- 
hUlowed  gaze.     He  has  a  lake  and  a  steam  yacht  and  a  little 
railway  to  a.uuse  himself  with,  and  a  great  household  who 
minister  to  his  pleasure.     They  say  he  does  not  love  his  Em- 
press, and,  perhaps,  there  are  no  sorer  hearts  in  Chma  than 
those  that  ache  behin.i  those  Imperial  walls.     A  veil  of  deep, 
impenetrable  mystery  surrounds  him.     Few  foreigners  now 
ever  enter  this  Imperial  City,  and  so  we  saw  as  much  of  it  as 
most  people  ever  will.     We  were  glad  we  could  look  down 
lip  ai  it  from  above.     We  felt  that  day  that  we  were  a  great 
way  above  that  poor  little  sickly  king  and  all  his  silly,  sacred 

baubles. 

We  found  our  dear  missionaries  waiting  to  welcome  us. 
l^Iiss  Duow  had  recently  purchased  the  premises  which  she 
had  been  renting  for  some  time.     It  certainly  was  a  wise 
purchase.     Think  of  getting  an  enclosure  in  the  heart  of 
Peking,  containing  nearly  an  acre  of  ground,  and  covered 
with  many  courts,  buildings  and  chambers,  with,  at  least, 
ov.>r  twentv  different  apartments,  for  the  sura  of  !i^l,400,  land 
and  all.     We  should  have  thought  it  ridiculously  cheap  at 
'$U,00«>,  and  in  New  York  it  would  easily  bring  $1+0,000. 
They  had  fixed  it  up  neatly  and  simply,  and  altogether  it 
was  as  comfortable  and  suitable  a  Mission  Home  as  we  had 
seen  in  China.     It  was,  formerly,  the  residence  of  the  Epis- 
copal Bishop. 

Miss  Funk  had  recently  returned  to  America,  but  Miss 


yi£ 


')■  f.A.\'DS. 

the  cross  streets 
aded  up  that  no 
edness  hy  an  un- 
yacht  and  a  little 
it  household  who 
not  love  his  Eni- 
■ts  in  China  than 
\.    A  veil  of  deep, 
w  foreigners  now 
V  as  much  of  it  as 
could  look  down 
■j  we  were  a  great 
all  his  silly,  sacred 

ig  to  welcome  us. 
remises  which  she 
tainly  was  a  wise 
B  in  the  heart  of 
ound,  and  covered 
)ers,  with,  at  least, 
sum  of  ^1,400,  land 
iiculously  cheap  at 
ily  bring  $1+0,000. 
^,  and  altogether  it 
)n  Home  as  we  had 
idence  t)f  the  F.pis- 

.  America,  hut  Miss 


TO  Till-:  .\ORTlir.KS  lA/'/T.ir.. 


441 


Duow,  Miss  Gowans  and  Miss  Myers  wciv  well  and  happy. 
They  I'lad  all  grown  ptMce|)til)ly,  and  Miss  Duow  ai)peai-ed  to 
great  advantage  with  her  former  experience,  her  knowledge 
of  the  language  and  people,  and  the  excellent  business  quali- 
ties which  her  responsible  situation  had  required  her  to  de- 


A   STREET  IN  PEKING. 

velop.  Tlie  younger  ladies  had  fairly  acquired  the  language, 
and  Miss  Gowans  was  teaching  an  interesting  class  of  girls, 
and  having  a  meeting  of  women,  both  of  which  were  hope- 
ful, while  Miss  Myers  was  taking  charge  of  the  Home,  and 
doing  what  work  she  could  in  her  leisure  hours.     Miss  Duow 


\ 


•f?'\ 


]("it 


is*;: 


443  LARGER  OVri.OOKS  OX  .VfSS/OX.I R  )'  LAX^S. 

has  an  excellent  meeting  of  CJliinese  v/onien,  and  we  were  re- 
joiced to  hear  that  a  lady-the  wife  of  an  official,  and  her 
daughter  -had  lately  been  baptized,  and  that  another  old  lady 
desired  baptism  and  she  believed  was  truly  converted.  Even 
such  fruits  as  these,  in  so  short  a  time,  mean  a  great  deal  in 
China.  There  is  room  for  two  or  three  more  ladies  in  this 
work,  and  Miss  Duow  is  an  anging  for  their  coming. 

Our  dear  friends  are  nmch  respected  and  beloved  by  the 
other  missionaries,  and  on  the  second  evening  of  our  visit  we 
had  the  pleasm-e  of  meeting  nearly  all  the  missionaries  of 
Peking  in  their  home,  and,  after  some  pleasant  social  fellow- 
ship, of  explaining  to  them  our  work  and  aims.     This  was 
especially  necessary  in  Peking,  as  there  had  been  a  good  deal 
of  concern  respecting  the  Swedish  missionaries  and  nmch 
misunderstanding.     We  cannot  thank  God  enough  for  per- 
mitting us  to  visit  China  at  this  very  time,  and  enabling  us 
to  remove  the  most  serious  misapprehensions  from  the  minds 
of  the  best  of  men,  and  bring  our  woi-k  and  workers  into  a 
place  of  the  most  blessed  confidence  and  sympathy  on  the 
l»art  of  so  many  whose  fellowship  is  so  invaluable. 

Tlie  Spirit  of  God  was  present  in  our  meeting,  ar.d  all  our 
hearts  were  touched  and  drawn  together  in  Him,  and  we  felt 
that  God  had  given  lis  precious  and  lasting  friends  in  that 
great  Imperial  capital.  But,  better  far,  we  felt  that  together 
we  were  able  to  look  out  on  all  that  vast  Empire  with  one 
faith  and  one  heart,  and  put  down  the  soles  of  our  feet  upon 
it  and  claim  it  all  for  Christ,  and  that  its  evangelization 
should  soiuehow  be  prepared  before  the  generation  should 
have  passed  away. 


•   /..I. VPS. 

ind  we  were  re- 
aflficial,  and  lier 
another  old  lady 
inverted.     Even 

a  great  deal  in 
•e  ladies  in  this 
xnniiig. 

1  beloved  by  the 
^  of  our  visit  we 

niissionarieg  of 
mt  social  fellow- 
aims.  This  was 
been  a  good  deal 
aries  and  much 
enough  for  per- 
and  enabling  us 
3  from  the  minds 
I  workers  into  a 
iynipathy  on  the 
Inable. 

eting.  and  all  our 
Him,  and  we  felt 
r  friends  in  that 
felt  that  together 
Empire  with  one 

of  our  feet  upon 
ts  evangelization 
;eneration  shoidd 


TO  HIE  \oN ini:KS  CAPirAi.. 


443 


In  this  little  company  were  our  dear  brethren  of  the 
American  Presbyterian  Missica  ;  the  Methodist  Mission  repre- 
sented  by  Dr.  Lowrie,  Superintendent;  the  American  Board, 
represented  by  the  venerable  Dr.  Blodgett ;  and  the  London 
Mission-  all  the  Societies  laboi-ing  in  Peking. 

We  had  greatly  desired  to  meet  good  Dr.  Blodgett,  the 
oldest  missionary  in  this  part  of  China,  and  were  rejoiced  ti> 
find  him  waiting  for  us  on  our  arrival  at  Miss  Duow's,  and 
also  to  have  the  pleasure  of  spending  some  time  at  his  own 
hospitable  home  the  following  day,  and  learning  much  that 
we  could  not  otherwise  have  learned  of  Peking  and  Northern 

i^  IT  inn 

We  were  able  to  mak.?  arrangements  for  tlie  coming  to 
Peking  of  our  Thibetan  missionaries  for  the  study  of  that 
language,  and  we  found  that  there  was  a  Thibetan  temple  at 
the  North  Gate,  with  a  number  of  Lamas,  among  whom  it 
would  not  be  difficult  to  obtain  a  teacher. 

We  had  as  much  conference  with  our  own  beloved  work- 
ers as  the  time  would  allow,  and  left  much  encouraged  about 
their  future  work.  It  was  but  a  brief  day,  but.  like  the 
Transfiguration  hour,  its  light  will  linger  all  the  days  of  toil 
and  time,  and  when  time  and  Peking,  too,  shall  have  passed 

away.  ,  ,     ,         i 

The  following  morning  found  us  up  at  three  o  clock,  and 
after  a  loving  leave-taking,  on  our  way  on  two  superb  don- 
keys to  the  City  gates.  AVe  found  them  open  with  the  day- 
light, and  we  hastened  on  with  our  donkeys  fourteen  miles 
to  Tung-chow.    We  had  resolved  to  change  our  route  return- 


444         I.ARCKR   OCTf.OOk'S  OX  /l//SS/OX.'1  AT  L.hV/)S. 


ONE   OF  THE  INNER  GATES,   PEKINO, 

ing,and  take  a  boat  at  Tung-chow  down  the  river  to  Tientsin, 
believing  that  with  the  downw-^ard  current  and  the  wind  in 
our  favor,  we  could  make  better  time,  and  by  travelhng  day 
and  night,  reach  Tientsin  in  time  to  catch  the  next  morning's 
.steamer  for  Shanghai. 

Four  hours  brought  us  to  Tuiig-choAV.     As  we  passed  out 


a>L    >x 


river  to  Tientsin, 
;  and  the  wind  in 
l)y  travelling  day 
le  next  morning's 

As  we  passed  out 


TO  THE  XOKTIIEKX  i.ir/T.U.. 


445 


of  the  Peking  g-.tes  we  nu>t  Imndreds  of  men  hurrying  in 
with  their  inuuense  loads  of  vegetahles  on  their  l)ac-ks,  .larried 
in  two  great  l)askt>ts  halanet-d  on  a  hamhoo  pole.  They  were 
trotting  along  under  their  inuuense  loads,  and  the  sweat  pour- 
ing down  their  faces.  We  felt  they  vvere,  indeed,  the  sons  of 
Adam  and  the  children  of  toil.  Little  wonder  that  from  such 
toil  even  "  John  Chinaman  "  sometimes  shrinks,  and  that  Pek- 


BRIDQE  NEAR  PEKINQ. 

ing  is  a  city  of  beggars.  We  saw  a  bridal  procession  on  the 
streets  of  Peking,  in  which  three  hundred  beggars,  dressed  in 
gaudy  robes  of  blue  and  crimson,  over  filthy  garments  and 
unwashed  persons,  were  carrying  magnificent  presents,  be- 
hind a  band  of  music,  to  the  home  of  a  fashionable  bride. 
They  got  a  few  cash  for  the  occasion,  and  found  it  easier  than 

honest  work. 

A  friend  in  Peking  told  us  that  a  situation  was  obtained 


^P;i 


446 


LARniiK   OUTLOOKS  OS'  MrsSlOXANY  LAMKS. 


for  one  some  time  ago,  and  he  went  to  work  for  a  few  day 
at  good  wages,  but  soon  after  he  was  found  back  at  his  old 
station  on  the  "Beggars'  Bridge."  When  asked  if  he  had 
lost  his  job,  he  said  "  No."  He  had  given  it  iip  ;  and  when 
l)ressed  for  the  reason,  he  replied:  -'I  can  stand  cold  and 
heat,  I  can  bear  luniger  and  rain,  but  there  is  one  thing  I  can- 
not Jndure,and  thatis-to  be  tired."  It  is  said  that  17,000  of 
them  died  of  cold  and  starvation  last  winter  in  Peking,  but 
so  vast  was  the  mnnber  that  they  were  not  even  missed. 

We  reached  Tung-chow  at  eight  o'clock,  and  had  the  jdeas- 
ure  of  breakfasting  with  our  friend,  Dr.  Sheffield,  and  meet- 
ing Miss  Andrews,  sister  of  one  of  our  dear  Alliance  workers 
in  Cleveland,  Ohio-beside  others.     We  received  a  very  cor- 
dial note  of  welcome  from  Dr.  Goodrich,  another  honored 
laborer  of  the  A.  B.  C.  F.  M.  here,  who  was  absent  at  the 
hills     We  could  not  tarry  to  visit  the  college  and  other  build- 
ings here,  but  were  glad  to  hear  of  their  great  prosperity. 
We  had  to  hurry  on  the  way.     And  so,  good  Dr.  Sheffield 
took  us  down  to  the  river,  where  we  found  our  baggage  wait- 
ing US-sent  on  the  previous  day  from  Peking  by  cart,  and 
a  boat  already  secured.      Making  a  bargain  in  Chinese  style, 
and  agreeing  wi1;h  our  boatman  to  give  him  so  much  more  if 
he  got  us  in  ahead  of  time,  and  requiring  him  to  take  on  four 
extra  rowers,  we  got  into  our  little  cabin,  and  clearing  the 
shore,  and  saying   "Good-bye,"  we  were  soon  off  on  the 

Peiho  River. 

Our  boat  was  a  small  affair  with  a  roof  of  mat tmg  about 
six  feet  wide  and  twelve  long,  and  just  high  enough  to  stand 


iL_i 


■  -  v»»«V?S*TiX*iM*'»'.  ■^ 


oik  for  a  few  day 
lul  back  at  his  old 
X  asked  if  he  had 
1  it  ui> ;  and  when 
m  stand  cold  and 
is  one  thing  I  can- 
said  that  17,000  of 
ter  in  Peking,  but 
,  even  missed. 
,  and  had  the  jdeas- 
leffield,  and  rueet- 
r  AlHance  workers 
::eived   a  very  cor- 
i,  another  honored 
was  absent  at  the 
;ge  and  other  build- 
great  prosperity, 
good  Dr.  Sheffield 
I  our  baggage  wait- 
iking  by  cart,  and 
in  in  Chinese  style, 
m  so  much  more  if 
him  to  take  on  four 
,  and  cleai'ing  the 
re  soon  off  on  the 

)of  of  matting  about 
gh  enough  to  stand 


7<  >  Tin:  M  >h'  rHEKX  < .  /  /'/  /•  /  /. . 


447 


lip  in  But  it  was  a  good  dt'al  easier  than  oui  I'ekijig  cart. 
The  current  and  thf  wind  were  both  in  our  favor.  And  ho, 
with  our  sail  up  we  dashed  on,  sometimes  at  the  rate  of 
weven  or  eight  miles  an  houi'.  Hut  the  river  was  very  crooked, 
so  that  a  distance  of  sixty-five  miles,  in  an  air  line,  took  us 
over  one  Inmdred  and  thirty  miles  by  the  river's  tortuous 
course.  ('onse(iuently.  we  often  found  ourselves  running 
against  the  wind,  and  obliged  to  take  down  (»ur  sail  and  get 
our  men  at  the  oars.  Hut  we  really  got  on  very  well,  and  ac- 
corapli.shed  a  voyage,  which  usually  takes  two  or  three  days, 
in  twenty-tw«)  hours,  and  we  both  felt  that  it  was  "the  good 
hand  of  our  God  upon  us.'" 

Chinese  boats  are  always  interesting.  In  Central  China, 
especially  those  that  come  from  Ningpo,  they  usually  have 
two  great  eyes  at  the  head  of  the  bt»at,  which  is  shaped  like 
the  head  of  a  fish  or  dragon.  The  Chinaman's  explanation 
in  pigeon  English  is,  "  If  he  no  have  eyes,  he  no  can  see,  he 
no  can  walk."  Our  boat  had  no  eyes,  but  its  captain  and 
crew  kept  their  eyes  open  and  rowed  and  sailed  night  and 
day.  A  few  extra  cash  will  make  a  great  dill'eience  in  the 
amount  of  work  a  Chinaman  can  do. 

It  was  very  interesting  to  sit  on  the  little  deck  that  night, 
as  the  stars  came  out  and  the  little  boat  swept  down  that  lit- 
tle winding  stream  in  Northern  China,  and  listen  to  our 
friend  as  he  talked  to  these  simple-hearted  men  about  the 
Lord.  When  the  wind  was  favorable,  and  they  did  not  have 
to  row,  they  would  sit,  Chinese  fashion,  and  listen  with  open 
mouths  and  eyes  and  ears,  and  expressions  of  w  onder  and  de- 


^^siyiff^ssET^—^-'^'- ' 


1 


m 


hARci'.R  ofrr.ooh's  ox  .u/ss/ox.ia'v  /..i.vds. 

Ijf''  « tc.ia  them  of  th.   Loi'l  Tesus  walking  on  the  sea 

.^M  HtmirK  the  tonipeHl .  When  th.'  win.l  wont  .h.wn  it  was 
aiuuHing  to  h..ivi-  thnn  wlnstHng  to  it,  Uke  an  Kngh^h  tar, 
and  trying  to  make  it  come,  and  when  he  explain.,  lo  them 
that  the  wind  rould  not  hear  them,  th.y  listened  and  won- 
dered, hvit  8till  kept  whistling  all  the  same.  As  we  looked 
into  their  giv  lact.,  ».  r  wished  we  could  speak  Chinese,  and 
we  asked  that  somehow  they  might  he  enahled  to  understand 

the  (Jospel  of  Christ. 

But  their  minds  are  very  dense  ;  the  power  of  old  super- 
stition is  very  strong,  and  it  has  to  he  "line  upon  line  and 
precept  upon  precept. ' ' 

Sometimes  these  hoat  journeys  are  very  dangevou  .  <  >nly 
this  week  a  lady  missionary  told  us  how  she  and  a  friend  hul 
lately  been  attacked  by  river  pirates  at  night,  and  while  a 
sword  was  hehl  to  .nich  of  their  throats,  their  persons  and 
trunks  had  been  rifled  and  robbed   .f  all  their  valuabli  .,  and 
their  lives  had  only  l>een  saved  by  complete  and  instant  sub- 
mission. Most  of  the  interior  rivi'i  s  are  infes*    '  with  pin.  os. 
They  seldom  at  ack  a  boat  with  foreigners  in  ii,  as  they  fe 
foreign  fire-arms  ;  but  it       usual  for  missionaries  to  an 
at  nig!.t  beside  one  of  the  nativ^.  gunboats  that,  w  are  .   ''1. 
are  to  be  foun-    all  along  the  river  shores. 

\ad  ye«      aese  nicive  gunboals  are   rather  laughaM". 
They  havJ  only  one  gun,  and  it  is  a  fixtui     in  the  si  m,  so 
f^,r^  it  has  to  be  sighted  by  turning  the  boat  round  toward 
the  object  to  bo  aimed  at,  and  holding  it  steadily  by  mea.is  of 
the  oars.     Indeed,  they  say  they  seldom  sh   .t  anythm^  more 


r  /..IXVS. 

IkiuK  on  t>i<'  sea 
»nt  down  it  v«  aH 
an  Kngli^h  tar, 
I)laim''  i(»theni 
skned  and  won- 
As  we  looked 
?ak  ChinjiHe,  and 
?d  to  \it\«l«'r8t;ind 

ver  of  old  Hnper- 
10  upon  line  and 

dangor<ni-  <  >nly 
and  a  friend  h.ul 
ght,  and  while  a 
t,heir  persons  and 
Bir  valnabii  ;,  and 
and  instant  sub 
with  piruies. 
in  u,  as  they  f ea  • 
ionaries  to  an  .^ 
that,  w<'  are  uoJd, 

rather  langhahle. 
1  in  the  si  m,  so 
lOut  round  toward 
mdily  by  mestiis  of 
)t  any  thin  tr  more 


;"'3fSSSS! 


•SWdB'- 


m  f 


11  ^i 


ui. 


■  ■;Si^\«G9i£*e««!»-TiT™'«'^ 


TO  TIN.  XORTnihW  (.triTAL. 

teriihlo  than  a  l.i^^  liiv  .ru.tker.    'I'lwy  aiv.  l.ow..vei-,  very  iiu 
inercniH,   himI  sullicimit  to  givu  fair  piutwtion  to  life  and 

pro|)«!rty. 

'I'iifouKli  tlie  protection  of  a  Stroiigor  Arm.  we  safoly 
rea(lu'<l  our  ileHtination  so  early  that  our  Tientsin  friendH 
could  scarcely  believe  that  we  had  been  to  Peking  an<l  baric 
in  four  days,  and  had  spent  two  nights  and  a  day  there. 

We  thoroughly  enjoyed  the  society  of  our  dear  brother, 
who  is  a  devoted  Christian,  as  well  as  a  distuiguisbed  minis- 
ter and  missionary  of  many  y.-ars'  experience,  and  whoso  ex- 
treme kindness  in  leaving  his  work  and  taking  that  ti7ing 
journey  for  the  accommodation  of  a  stranger,  we  could  not 
too  highly  appreciate  and  can  only  ask  the  Master  to  reward. 
The  steamer  for  Shanghai  had  left  two  hours  before  our 
arrival,  but  this  only  gave  occasion  for  another  example  of 
God's  care  and  the  kindness  of  Christian  friends. 

A  Christian  gentleman  in  Tientsin,  interested  in  the 
steamship  lines,  hearing  of  our  desire  to  get  off  to  Shang- 
hai, at  once  arranged  to  have  one  .)f  his  steamers  leave  early 
on  Monday  morning,  and,  although  she  was  a  freight  boat, 
and  had  no  regular  accommodations  for  passengers,  yet  they 
kindly  airanged  a  "shakedown"  for  us  in  the  cabin  used 
by  the  officers  as  a  saloon  and  dining  room,  and  wo  got  on 
delightfully,  and  were  able  to  have  a  Sabbath  of  rest  in 
Tientsin,  and  to  get  off  early  on  Monday  morwing  and  reach 
Shanghai,  with  a  day  to  spare  for  matters  of  great  import- 
ance there. 

Our  only  regret  was  that  our  steamer  did  not  stop  at  Che- 
f  oo  on  her  way  downward  and  our  expected  visit  to  Dr.  Nevins 


jr*\  ■jW'lilNl  ' 


SI- 


1   li 


I   ! 


450         LARGER  Orfr.OOKS  ON  MTSSIONARY  LANDS. 

and  the  Presbyterian  Mission  there  had  to  be  abandoned. 
We  had  met  Dr.  C^orbett,  of  this  Mission,  in  Shanghai,  and 
heard  with  much  joy  of  the  great  blessing  that  God  has  been 
pouring  out  in  the  past  year  on  all  the  work  in  Shantung. 
This  is  the  district  where  so  much  famine  relief  was  distrib- 
uted during  the  past  few  years,  and  the  effect  of  it  has  been 
to  open  the  hearts  of  the  people  and  awaken  their  confidence 
in  the  missionaries,  and  they  are  earnestly  sowing  the  seed 
in  the  deeply-plowed  soil,  and  reaping  quick  and  glorious 

harvests. 

By  far  the  most  encouraging  results  of  mission  work  in 
China,  duiing  the  past  year,  have  been  in  this  province  of 
Shantung,  and  some  of  the  best  of  them  have  been  in  the 
Presbyterian  Mission.  We  have  received  the  admirable  re- 
port of  the  Mission,  and  shall  be  glad  to  i)ublish  some  ex- 
tracts from  it  soon.  Dr.  Corbett  has  just  gone  to  America, 
and  we  hope  our  people  may  be  able  to  hear  him  tell  of  the 
glorious  work  in  North  China. 

We  were  deeply  grieved,  while  at  Tientsin,  to  hear  from 
many  private  letters  the  harrowing  details  of  the  famine 
which  is  now  ravaging  Shansi,  the  field  of  our  Swedish  mis- 
sionaries.    Missionaries  there  write  of  destruction  so  ten-ible 
that  men  v/ere  working  a  whole  day  for  a  single  cash,  the 
tenth  part  of  a  cent,  and  selling  their  wives  and  children  as 
slaves,  for  a  few  do .  ars.  Young  girls  were  being  sold  for  three 
dollars  each,  and  sent  southward,  in  carts,  by  the  score.  In  one 
village  sixty-three  girls  had  passed  through  that  week  from  the 
famine  district.     We   need  not  say  that  these  giris  were 
bought  for  the  most  infamous  purpose,  and  taken  from  their 


I 


■-i..-ii 


4Py  LANDS. 

to  be  abandoned, 
a,  in  Shanghai,  and 
••  that  God  ha8  been 
work  in  Shantung. 
}  rehef  was  distrib- 
iftect  of  it  has  been 
:en  their  confidence 
tly  sowing  the  seed 
quick  and  glorious 

of  mission  work  in 
in  this  province  of 
n  have  been  in  the 
d  the  admirable  re- 
;o  publish  some  ex- 
ist gone  to  America, 
lear  him  tell  of  the 

entsin,  to  hear  from 
etails  of  the  famine 
of  our  Swedish  mis- 
estruction  so  terrible 
)r  a  single  cash,  the 
ives  and  children  as 
*e  being  sold  for  three 
I,  by  the  score.  In  one 
^h  that  week  from  the 
lat  these  girls  were 
and  taken  from  their 


TO  THE  NORTHERN  CAPITAL. 


451 


homes  for  enforced  lives  of  shame,  on  the  proceeds  of  which 
multitudes  of  Chinese  people  live  and  grow  rich  Indeed 
we  saw  in  the  tea  houses  of  Shanghai  scores  of  girls  who 
wore  the  absolute  property  of  men  and  women  who  lived 
upon  their  earnings,  and  these  children  knew  no  better  than 
to  be  the  victims  and  the  tools  of  their  avarice. 

Out  of  these  famine  horrors,  and  the  blessed  mfluences 
that  come  from  their  relief,  God  prepares  thesoil  of  Northern 
China  for  the  seed  of  the  Gospel.     We  are  so  sorry  that  be- 
fore our  people  at  home  will  have  time  to  reach  these  suffer- 
ers, the  horrors  of  the  present  crisis  will  be  over-and  the 
new  crops  will  have  ripened.     Our  dear  missionaries  write  us 
that  God  has  sent  abundant  rains,  and  by  these  our  new  mis- 
sionaries have  been  commended  to  the  confidence  of  the  peo- 
ple, and  the  temptation  to  blame  them  for  the  drought  has 
thus  been  prevented. 

But  we  must  hasten  on  our  jouvney.    Three  days  of 
pleasant  saihng  brought  us  to  the  end  of  our  twelfth^a 
voyage  since  leaving  home,  and  our  sixty-fifth  oay  on  ship- 
board     We  reached  Shanghai,  with  a  little  over  a  day  to 
spare  before  our  steamer  left  for  Japan.     Our  letters  just 
brougnt  us  the  particulars  of  the  burning  of  our  Mission  and 
publishing  rooms  in  New  York,  and  the  wonderful  and  gra- 
cious way  in  which  the  loss  of  the  publishing  company  has 
been  met,  and  once  more  -  we  thanked  God  and  took  cour- 
age" as  we  felt  how  His  mighty  and  faithful  hands  were 
guiding  and  upholding  us  and  our  dear  ones  on  the  other 
side  of  the  world.    Blessed  be  His  Holy  Name  for  ever  and 
evermore  *. 


m 


XXIV. 


LAST  GLIMPSES  OF  CHINA. 

NEARLY  two  days,  after  our  return  from  the  north, 
were  all  that  were  left  us  to  take  leave  of  Shanghai 
and  China.     A  lot  of  business  matters,  an  enormous 
mail,  several  calls  and  callers,  two  public  services  and  sev- 
eral quieter  ones  left  little  unoccupied  leisure.     At  length  we 
found  ourselves,  on  Saturday,  the  17th  of  June,  on  the  steam 
launch  for  Woosung,  where  the  "Empress  of  China  "was 
waiting,  fourteen  miles  down  the  river,  to  bear  us  to  Japan. 
A  kind  party  of  missionaries  and  friends  accompanied  us 
unto  the  ship,  and  after  a  brief  leave-taking,  we  were  on  our 
way  to  another  missionary  land. 

As  we  look  back  once  more  at  these  receding  shores,  let 
us  gather  up  some  of  the  results  of  these  eight  weeks  of 
Chinese  travel  and  observation. 

These  sixty  days  in  China  have  been  full  of  labor  and 
thought,  and  our  head  is  literally  aching  with  the  strain  of 
an  almost  unconscious  effort,  day  and  night,  to  grasp  the 
tremendous  Chinese  situation. 

We  have  seen  something  of  this  immense  land,  perhaps 
as  much  as  if  a  visitor  to  America  should  spend  a  few  days^ 
at  New  Orleans,  St.  Louis,  Washington,  New  York,  Buffalo,. 
45a 


LAST  GLIMPSES  OF  CHINA. 


453 


[INA. 

■11  from  the  north  ^ 
i  leave  of  Shanghai 
itters,  an  enormous 
ic  services  and  sev- 
5ure.  At  length  we 
June,  on  the  steam 
)ress  of  China  "  was 
o  bear  us  to  Japan, 
inds  accompaniea  us 
ing,  we  were  on  our 

receding  shores,  let 
lese  eight  weeks  of 

een  full  of  labor  and 
g  with  the  strain  of 
night,  to  grasp  the 

mense  land,  perhaps 

lid  spend  a  few  days- 

New  York,  Buffalo, 


Cleveland,  Chicago,  St.  Paul,  Toronto,  Montreal  and  Bos  on 
We  have  visited  the  seven  most  important  of  the  eighteen 
provinces,  and  the  fourteen  most  important  of  the  fourteen 
hundred  walled  cities  of  China.     Such  ceiitres  as  Canton, 
Hong  Kong,  Shanghai,  Nanking,  Hankow,  Wuchang,  (xank- 
ng    Chin-kiang.  Hu-kiang,  Tientsin,  Chefoo,  Peknig,  and 
Tmig-chow  give  one  a  fair  conception  of    the    south,     he 
.entre  and  the  north  of  China,  and  yet  beyond  these  he  the 
immense  western  provinces  of  Bz-chuen,  Yunnan,  Kwei-chau, 
Kansuh,  and  Shensi,  just  as  Texas,  Colorado,  Dakota,  Nevada 
.md  Arizona  lie  beyond,  what  we  used  to  ^all,  the  Great  West, 
in  America,  and  what  now  is  scarcely  the  centre. 

One  can  form  some  conception  of  the  immensity  and  in- 
accessibiUty  of  interior  China,  when  we  say  that  beyond  he 
most  western  point  we  reached,  a  point  corresponding  to  the 
situation  of  Chicago  in  the  United  States,  there  a-  mission 
stations  to  which  it  takes  nearly  three  months  or  their  mail 
to  come,  even  from  Hankow.  This  is  not  merely  on  accoum 
.f  distance,  which  is  not  so  great  as  our  West,  but  partly  the 
difficulty  of  communication.  ,,    ,    , 

We  have  tried  to  look  at  China  with  our  Master  s  eyes, 
and  while  we  know  these  are  only  first  impressions,  yet  we 
are  glad  to  reproduce  the  imperfect  vision,  for  all  ^t^^  worthy 
for  the  benefit  of  those  who  may  only  be  able  to  see  it  through 

our  eyes.  .  , 

China  proper  consists  of  eighteen  provinces,  each  aver- 
aging a  population  about  as  gre^t  as  New  York,  Pennsylvania 
and  all  of  New  England.    These  provinces  have  each  a  sort 


i^^99BflHfe.i^_ 


454 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSION.IRY  LANDS. 


of  local  government,  under  a  Viceroy,  who  resides  at  the 
Provincial  Capital.  All  these  eighteen  provinces,  of  course, 
form  one  great  Empire,  under  the  absolute  rule  of  the  em- 
peror at  Peking.  There  is  an  Imperial  system  of  Customs, 
in  v^'hich  the  government  is  greatly  assisted  by  foreign  ofii- 
cialB.  The  whole  system  is  under  the  direction  of  Sir  Robert 
Hart,  who  has,  probably,  more  influence  over  the  emperor 
and  his  poUcy  than  any  other  foreigner  in  China,  and  who 
has  raised  the  Customs'  revenue  five-fold  in  twenty-five  years. 
There  is  also  a  large  standing  army  and  a  fine  navy.  China 
has  a  fleet  of  some  of  the  best  gunboats  in  the  world,  and  as 
we  paesed  down  the  river  we  saw  five  of  them  lying  at 
anchor,  as  handsome  and  as  powerful  as  any  in  the  British 
or  German  navy. 

Each  of  the  great  provinces  is  divided  into  larger  and 
smaller  districts.  The  larger  include  the  less.  Each  of  the 
larger  districts  is  governed  from  a  "  Fu  "  city,  and  the  smaller 
are  like  ou'-  counties,  and  the  county-seat  is  called  a 
"H'sein"  (sheyn)  city.  These  "Fu"  and  "H'sein"  cities 
are  all  walled,  and  they  number  nearly  fifteen  hundred  in  the 
whole  Empire.  There  are,  besides  these,  thousands  and  hun- 
dreds of  thousands  of  unwalled  towns  and  villages.  The 
i^eople  all  live  in  villages  or  towns,  and  go  to  the  fields  to  do 
their  farm  work,  returning  to  their  village  home  at  night. 
Isolated  country  houses  are  unknown  in  China. 

What  is  the  population  of  China  ?  It  is  very  difficult  to 
j-nswer  this  (luestion,  but  w.e  believe  it  has  been  overesti- 
mated.    We  have  always  accepted  the  estimate  of  400,000,- 


.iA')'  LANDS. 

Nho  resides  at  the 
rovinces,  of  course, 
ute  rule  of  the  em- 
system  of  Customs, 
5ted  by  foreign  offi- 
iction  of  Sir  Robert 
over  the  emperor 
in  China,  and  who 
a  twenty-five  years. 
I  fine  navy.  China 
n  the  world,  and  as 
!  of  theiu  lying  at 
^  any  in  the  British 

ded  into  larger  and 
e  less.  Each  of  the 
;ity,  and  the  smaller 
y-seat  is  called  a 
ind  "  H'sein"  cities 
teen  hundred  in  the 
thousands  and  hun- 
and  villages.  The 
yo  to  the  fields  to  do 
lage  home  at  night. 
China. 

It  is  very  difficult  to 
,  has  been  overesti- 
estimate  of  400,000,- 


LAST  (:/A.uPSf:s  or  cin.x.  i. 


455 


wan-ant  so  large  a  figure.    Ih.s,  « i.«w  .  ^^^ 

nearly  twenty-five  million  for  each  of  tl.e  r.ovmc,.-. 
Zw  that  many  of  them  have  "<>' "-'y  ~^j;«t' 
ana  the  ve.,  largest  „.  '^em^- ...  ov„^^^^^^^ 

while  Yunnan,  ^i^'"^;^^"':^Z^,.  .„,,0«.V.e0  a 
millions  each.     Upon  the  xMioit.,  wc 

very  full  estin.ate,  and  shall  not  u.  future  P-^f  *  f  ^^^ 
ChL  is,  probably,  Just  about  as  populous  as  Ind.a,  and  not 

"^^wLchinaisstin..utherut,-'yetsheisget.n^ 
nf  it  Her  progress  in  a  single  generation  has  been  vei) 
^el^L^fetwome^^hC^^Hoa.^^^ 

and  the  \  angise.     j-  ^^  ^^^^^  j.^. 

"-  T'  'c:"  r.,r.:.;»";.i..".«- 

from  the  mme  to  the  m ei,  ^^  Peking.     The 

^isfor  a  yet  longer  "'«  ^^  "^^    ..^  I  !.hv,«ly 
railway  that  now  runs  from  iaRu 


^fj^f^»^ 


456 


f.jh'ar.h'  ofrr/.ooA's  ox  Ar/ssmx.iA'V  /..ixns 


n\ 


being  extended  further  north,  apd  will  ultimately  connect 
with  the  Russian  lines,  which  are  fast  being  completed  to  the 

Pacitic  coast. 

Should  this  all  come  about,  the  entering  wedge  will  have 
gone  too  far  to  recall,  and  it  will  not  he  long  till  it  will  open 
up  the  great  western  pi-ovinces,  and  give  us  direct  railway 
communication  from  China  to  Loudon  in  twelve  days. 

And  yet  it  must  not  be  supposed  that  any  of  these  indi- 
cations of  Chinese  progress  He  very  near  the  surface.  It 
seems,  indeed,  to  a  general  observer  the  slowest  country  in 
the  woi-ld.  It  is  dreadfully  conservative.  A  map  of  China, 
prepai-ed  and  published  by  the  Chinese,  is  the  funniest  sight 
imaginable.  The  Celestial  Country  occupies  about  two  feet 
square.  Then  along  the  edges  are  little  strips  about  an  inch 
long  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  wide,  representing  the  other 
countries  that  lie  somewhere  beyond  "the  Great  Desert,"  or 
"the  Great  Sea." 

We  tried  to  persuade  a  native  a*  Tatung  that  we  had 
been  traveUing  east  for  five  months,  and  after  going  on  in 
the  same  direction  about  two  months  longer  we  should  reach 
the  point  from  which  w^e  started,  and  we  explained  it  by  the 
statement  that  the  world  was  round.  He  looked  at  us  with 
an  amused  expression  and  then  turned  away,  as  nmch  as  to 
say .  "  Well— you  don't  expect  me  to  beheve  that,  do  you  ? " 

To  one  who  is  looking  for  the  picturesque  and  beautiful 
it  is  very  disappointing.  There  are  places  to  be  found  ex- 
ceedingly beautiful,  and  even  grand.  But  most  of  China  is 
commonplace  and  monotonous.     Even  the  pagodas  and  pretty 


)■  /..ixns 

iiniately  connect 
completed  to  the 

;  wedge  will  have 
g  till  it  will  open 
IS  direct  railway 
;^elve  days, 
luy  of  those  iiidi- 
the  sui'face.     It 
owest  country  in 
A  map  of  China, 
he  funniest  sight 
s  about  two  feet 
ps  about  an  inch 
senting  the  other 
Great  Desert,"  or 

;ung  that  we  had 
after  going  on  in 
r  we  should  reach 
splained  it  by  the 
looked  at  us  with 
ly,  as  much  as  to 
;  that,  do  you  ? " 
que  aud  beautiful 
5  to  be  found  ex- 
most  of  China  is 
jagodas  and  pretty 


i|:l!!, 


W. 


'     I   I 


'■  -alL'^L. 


L.isrcL/.urs/:s  of  c///.v.i. 


457 


tea-houses  you  see  in  your  picture  books  are  few  and  far  be- 
twe*;  a  China.  Most  of  the  teiuph^sare  very  ordhiary  look- 
ing. And  most  of  the  cities  are  just  great  masses  of  low, 
•common  looking  buildings,  so  (;losely  crowded  together  that  a 
bird's  eye  view  from  a  tower  or  a  hill  presents  nothing  but 
a  mass  of  roofs. 

The  chief  interest  of  China  is  in  its  immensity,  its  an- 
tiquity, its  vast  natural  resources,  and  its  strange,  unchang- 
ing, and  strongly-marked  people. 

For  the  people  of  China  are,  doubtless,  the  leading  race  of 
Asia.  Wherever  they  meet  the  other  Asiatic  races  on  mid- 
dle ground  they  always  come  out  in  the  ascendant.  In  India 
the  Chinaman  earns  twenty-five  cents  a  day,  and  the  Hindu 
eight  or  ten.  In  Singapore  and  Penang  he  rides  in  his  car- 
riage in  the  Gai'dens,  and  is  the  money-lender,  the  merchant 
and  the  millionaire,  and  the  Malay  fades  befoi-e  him.  And  in 
China  he  has  stood  for  four  thousand  years  like  a  colossal 
and  immovable  buttress  against  all  the  billows  of  Time  and 
Change,  surviving  amid  destructive  conditions  and  influences 
which,  surely,  no  other  race  could  stand.  The  Hindu  has 
<^ver  been  a  conquered  race  ;  the  Malay  and  the  Polynesian  is 
a  fading  race.  The  Chinese,  notwitlistanding  poverty,  over- 
crowding, poisoned  water,  filthy  smells,  unhealthy  houses, 
extremes  of  heat  and  cold,  and  the  competition  for  existence 
of  as  many,  sometimes,  as  seven  hundred  to  the  square  mile, 
and,  above  all  other  curses,  the  awful  curse  of  opium,  is  tho 
most  populous  and  vigorous  race  on  earth  to-day. 

If  there  ever  was  an  illustration  of  the  principle  called 


mCZ" 


^ 


■I     ! 


458 


i.AKt:iiH  iirruwKs  on  Mi^sionmk^  i.jnds. 


"  the  suvvival  of  the  tittesl, '  pert-.,..        y  «re.    The  »t™K- 
de  tor  existem-e  U  so  sharp  that  only  th-  «tro„Ke»t  can  sur 

Vive,  and  «>  we  see  a  nafon  to-day  "-^.f  "-"Vlt    t 
oxen,  that  can  run  with  a  "rik  l.a     l.ke  h..„«.,  that  >  a 
Zr  „p  under  suifenn^  a.ul  pain  Hke  .to,    .,  and  yet  do  all 
these  things  on  a  diet  of  ri,c  and  a  (e^^  sr-vos. 

The  women  are  as  hanly  as  the  .,    'i      Mr.  W  alker  gives 
it  as  his  opinion  that  the  rea»<,n  the   ,         ..«ans  are  dyj 
out  is  because  the  mother,  have  to  work  so  hanl,  and  then 
offspring  is  stnnted  and  injur,.!.    But  the  women  of  Oh  ma 
..o,k  much  harder  in  the  fields  and  thebur.  -n  bearm,  ot  the 
roads.    And  even  during  n.atern.ty,  it  is  .he.dtul  1     ■>  they 
are  neglectcl  and  expec.ed  to  keep  up  the,,     '  J  ""«  ^ 
keep  step  with  others  in  the  dread  march  ot  hi.      o  1^    And 
yelthev  stand  it,  and  their  children  stand  ■'  a.d  the  race 
lives  and  grows,  and  l«,ks  down  with  a  hoary  and   .m- 
^vearied  age  on  the  younger  generations  ot  time.    They  a,e 
the  most  remarkable  race  on  earth,  phys.cally.    We  have 
o£ten  looked  at  the  "  riksha"  men  of  Hong  K,,ng  and  Shang- 
tai  their  limbs  like  great  trees  or  immense  pdlars  of  stone, 
a'd  they  will  run  inthe  hot  sun  for  hours  until  U  makes  one 

weary  to  see  them.  mu^,r 

But  these  people  are  more  than  splend.d  brutes.  They 
are  men  of  keen  intellect  and  shrewd  common  sense.  Ot^n 
have  we  listen«l  to  the  talk  of  the  common  PeoL te  ™  the 
boats,  in  the  country,  n>  the  inquiry  meetmg,  and  had  then 
..ords  interp>*d  to  us,  and  we  hav,.  been  •'^''^h^l  witMh^r 
keenness  of  observation,  their  discernment   of   character, 


'  UI. 


I.INPS. 

re.     The  strug- 

Mi^est  <;an  sur 
carry  loads  like 
lors^es,  that    an 
'i«l  yet  do  all 

.  alkei'  gi' 
sianH  are  "lying 
hanl.  and  their 
vonit'u  of  China 
11  bearing  of  the 
■ea/lful  1     '^  they 
gir     1     -,  and  to 
htt     toil.     And 
7+  and  the  race 
hoary  and    un- 
time.     They  are 
cally.     We  have 
Konj.;  and  Shang- 
;  pillars  of  stone, 
intil  it  makes  one 

ilid  brutes.  They 
non  sense.  Often 
ion  people  on  the 
ing,  and  had  their 
lelightetl  with  their 
jnt   of   character, 


LA  SI  c.i 


OF  CHINA. 


459 


then  8ly  humor,  their  ton  ,-ss  for  talking,  theirgoo<limturo, 
and  tiieir  ability  to  reason  .'vtui  on  dc-p  religious  and  philo- 
Rophical  questions. 

Their  power  of  memory  is  prodigious.     Their  scholars 
know  almost  all  their  classical  books  by  heait,  and  these 


CHINESE   WHEELBARROW. 

books  contain  many  large  volumes.  Their  officials  are  all 
men  of  education.  Tn  China,  all  political  positions  are  won 
by  study,  and  while  their  method  of  education  does  not  de- 
velop the  y  ghest  intellectual  (juaHties.  yet  it  is  said  that  the 
State  pn  rs  of  their  public  men  are  often  mai-ked  by  great 
ability,  and  their  leading  statesmen  are  men  of  rare  insight, 
tact  and  capacity. 


j!ni)i|iw;w« 


S^^^g^'f^v;^  ^. 


li-i 


460     i-.'^P^r.R  orTLOoK-s  ox  Mrssms-.tRY  r.^.vns. 

W«  have  xxu'i  a  few  officials,  and  more  graceful  a.ul  dig 
nifled  n.ann.rs  we  have  never  ...>.     Even  the  l-^^t  Coohe. 
before  he  drinks  hiB  tea  or  eats  his  n.e.  will  offer  ,t  to  you, 
and  we  have  often  felt  our  Anplo-Saxon  hluntness  put  to 
.hame  hy  the  manners  of  these  heathen.  ,,..,,„„ 

Their  poverty  has  often  been  referred  to,  hut  beais  no 
cnnparison  to  the  poverty  of  the  Hindu.  True,  .n  fanune 
aisticts  and  seasons,  they  are  often  reduced  to  ahjeet  des^^ 
tution,  hut  ordinarily  you  see  no  sueh  want  m  Cluna  a  w^^ 
saw  all  .>ver  India.  Most  China.nen  can  earn  ten  to  t^«»ty- 
five  cents  a  day.  and  buy  all  the  rice  he  wants.  Mdhc^s  o^ 
Hindus  never  eat  rice,  and  their  average  niconie  ib  ten  dollars 

\' Chinese  native  house  is,  as  a  rule,  far  superior  to  a 
Hindu  home,  and  we  have  seen  many  that  are  greatly  supe- 
rior to  the  usual  dwellings  of  the  laboring  classes  m  Europe 

What  is  the  attitude  of  these  people  toward  foreigners 
There  is  no  doubt  that  it  is  most  unfriendly.  The  lowest 
Chinaman  is  taught  by  every  instinct  and  tradition  that  he  is 
immeasurably  superior  to  the  highest  foreigner.  He  looks 
down  upon  him  as  an  inferior  and  an  intruder,  and  it  is 
counted  a  great  thing  by  our  missionaries,  in  the  niteriois 
.hen  the  people  l,egin  to  condescend  to  notice  them  upon  the 
street,  bid  them  good  morning  or  consent  to  rent  them  a 

They  don't  want  the  foreigner,  and  would  be  glad  to  get 
rid  of  him  if  they  could.  This  is  especially  true  of  the  higher 
classes  and  the  officials.     Step  by  step  the  foreign  i«i«aonary 


i 


-»#»'„' SH*^   , 


•aceful  and  dig 
e  lowest  Coolui, 
offer  it,  to  you, 
untn«'SH  put  to 

;o,  l)ut  iK'iirs  no 
Tiut',  iu  famine 
i  to  abject  desti- 
;  in  China  as  we 
n  ten  to  twenty- 
nts.  Millions  of 
nie  ia  ten  doUai-s 

ar  superior  to  a 
are  greatly  supe- 
!las8(!8  in  Europe, 
ward  foreigners  1 
cUy.     Tlie  lowest 
•adition  that  he  is 
signer.     He  looks 
itruder,  and  it  is 
},  iu  the  interior, 
ice  them  upon  the 
it  to  rent  them  a 


)uld  be  glad  to  get 
true  of  the  higher 
toreigu  miflfliouary 


r 


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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

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'n 


LAST  GL/MPSES  OF  CHINA. 


461 


and  trader  han  ^ot  into  city  after  city,  and  the  treaties  have 
established  his  right  to  stay,  bnt  there  is,  no  douht,  a  fixed 
determination  to  Uniit  this  as  much  as  possible,  and  to  pre- 
vent it  going  any  further.  It  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  get  a 
house  to  rent  in  a  new  town,  and  to  build  a  foreign  house  m 
the  interior  would  be  impossible  until  the  people  had  become 
famiUar  with  the  new  comers  by  a  few  years'  residence.  It 
has  been  tried  several  times,  but  the  building  has  been  always 
pulled  down  and  the  owners  turned  out. 

The  riots  which  break  out  from  time  to  time  are  the  best 
evidence  of  this  feeUng.     It  is  difficult  to  say  whether  the 
officials  OB  the  common  people  are  most  to  blame  for  this  an- 
tagonism.    The  two  provinces  of  Quangsi  and  Hunan  are  the 
most  unfriendly,  and  in  the  latter  no  Protestant  missionary 
has  yet  been  allowed  to  .ettle.  One  reason  for  this  is  the  fact 
that  the  Hunanese  compose  a  large  part  of  the  Chinese  army, 
and  they  had  a  very  active  part  in  putting  down  the  Taipmg 
Rebellic  u,  which  was  nominally  a  Christian  movement.  Con- 
sequently the  very  name  of  Christian  is  especially  odious  to 
them     But  in  all  the  provinc       .  i«  exceedingly  difficult  to 
open  a  new  station,  and  even  since  we  have  been  m  China 
there  have  been  several  outbreaks,  and  the  work  of  the  mis- 
sionaries has  been  stopped  in  several  places.    The  church 
cannot  too  fully  realize  that  China  is  the  most  difficult  mis- 
sion field  in  the  world,  and  only  the  very  wisdom,  patience, 
faith,  and  providence  of  God  can  open  it  fuUy  to  the  Gospel. 
What  are  the  chief  obstacles  to  mission  work  m  China  ? 
Well,  the  first  is  the  difficulty  of  getting  settled  at  all  in  the 
interior. 


i'i 


■■■■■■■■li 


463  LARGER  Or'TLOOK'S  OA'  MrsSIONARV  LANDS. 

Then  conies  the  prejudice  and  opposition  of  the  people  to 
the  doctrine.  The  Chinaman  is  naturally  opposed  to  any 
change.  But  to  change  from  heathenism  to  Christianity  is 
peculiarly  unnatural.  His  old  religion  is  bound  up  with  all 
that  is  dearest  to  him.  The  strongest  thing  in  Chinese  idol- 
atry is  ancestral  worship.  And  this  takes  hold  of  everything 
that  is  strong  and  sacred  in  the  human  heart.  To  abandon 
this  is  an  outrage  upon  every  human  feeUng. 

Then  the  Christian  conception  of  God  is  hard  for  a  China- 
man to  grasp.  To  him  either  nature  is  God,  and  he  cannot 
distinguish  between  heaven  and  its  Creator,  or  there  are 
many  gods,  in  the  form  of  deified  men  ;  and  he  has  no  diffi- 
culty in  accepting  the  deity  of  Christ,  but  how  He  can  be  the 
Supreme  and  only  God,  is  all  new  and  foreign.  Besides,  the 
whole  structure  of  the  Christian  Scriptures  is  new  and  strange 
and  unintelligible  to  hirn.  Much  has  to  be  explained  before 
he  can  even  grasp  the  fundamental  idea  of  the  Gospel,  and 
the  missionary  has  to  become  a  patient  teacher,  and  "line 
upon  line,  precept  upon  precept,  here  a  little  and  there  a  lit- 
tle," prepare  the  very  elements  of  thought  and  gently  lead 
him  to  grasp  the  primary  truths  of  the  Bible. 

For  this  reason,  the  Scottish  Bible  Society  has  recently 
issued,  after  much  discussion,  an  annotated  Bible  for  the 
Chineae,  explaining  such  terms  as  God,  the  Sabbath,  and 
many  allusions  and  references  which  are  absolutely  unintel- 
ligible to  the  Chinese  mind. 

What  has  been  accomplished  already  in  China  ?  Chinese 
missions  are  only  two  generations  old,  and  yet  much  has 


4 


•-> 


■.^v 


PUNCH  AND  JUDY. 


aE 


R(l)ri«Uu-tion  from  a  Chinese  I':iinliiiK- 


LAST  GlJMPSIiS  OF  CHINA. 


463 


been  done.  Looking  at  it,  nuniorically,  it  seems  very  Btnall 
to  talk  of  40,uu.!  converts  out  of  three  hundred  nnUion8,-one 
in  7  500  Still  smaller  do."S  it  look  when  you  go  into  a  vast 
city'like  Canton,  l>eking  or  Hankow  and  see  the  swarmnig 
millions  on  the  Sabbath  day,  pouring  out  through  the  busy 
streets  in  pursuit  of  gain,  and  in  ignorance  of  God,  and  then 
find  your  way  to  a  little  chapel  or  two,  where  a  handful  ot 
saved  men  and  women  are  worshipping  the  true  God  amid 
this  great  mass  of  ungodliness. 

But  there  are  other  standpoints  from  which  it  appears 

anything  but  small. 

It  is  no  small  thing  that,  in  all  the  great  cities  of  China, 
notwithstanding  the  bitter  antagonism  of  the  nation,  strong 
mission  centres  have  been  planted,  and  native  congregations 
have  been  gathered,  which  stand  continually  before  the 
eyes  of  the  natives  as  demonstrations  of  the  fact  of  a  living 
Christianity  and  samples  of  its  blessed  character,  influences 
and  power,  as  well  as  distributing  centres  from  which  the 
truth  is  going  out,  not  only  from  the  Uving  voice,  but  also 
from  the  printed  page,  to  thousands. 

It  is  no  small  fact  that,  by  dint  of  faith,  patience  and  holy 
tact  more  thanone  hundred  great  strategic  points  in  the  in- 
terior have  been  secured  and  opened  in  missionary  centres, 
from  which  every  province  but  one  can  be  re.  ;  ed,  and  in 
fact  at  least  evangelized.  These  are  trains  alonf,  which  the 
heavenly  dynamite  is  boing  scattered,  but  the  laying  of  a 
train  is  often  half  the  battle,  and  God  may,  in  a  single  hour, 
flaah  all  along  these  lines  the  fire  of  His  heavenly  power,  and 


464 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIOXARY  LANDS. 


encircle  tlic  cnipin;  with  His  glory.  The  uiowt  difficult  tiling 
for  a  general  is  to  get  a  good  position,  and  in  China  it  is  a 
great  thing  to  get  any  ])osition  at  all.  But  as  we  look  over 
the  map  of  China,  we  shall  find  that  tlie  hest  centres  in  most 
of  the  provinces  have  heen  given  to  the  army  of  ('hrist  dur- 
ing th(5  past  (juarter  of  a  century. 

It  is  hut  a  few  years  since  more  than  half  the  provinces 
of  China  were  wholly  unoccupied.  Within  a  little  more  than 
a  decade  the  immense  province  of  Szchuen,  witli  nearly  thirty 
millions  of  people,  has  heeii  occupied,  in  some  of  its  i)rincipal 
centres,  by  half  a  dozen  societies.  The  two  provinces  of 
Yunnan  and  Kvvei-chow,  in  the  Southwest,  have  been  occupied 
in  a  number  of  places  l)y  that  brave  pioneer  Society  which 
has  done  more  than  all  others  to  open  interior  China,  —the 
China  Inland  Mission.  The  same  Society  has  pushed  its  sta- 
tions into  Shensi  and  Kansuh,  which  constitute  the  North- 
western frontier  of  China,  and  now  another  society  has  joined 
them  in  Shensi.  Within  the  same  time  Honan  and  Shansi, 
in  the  North,  have  been  ])lanted,  with  several  stations,  and 
already  we  may  say  that  that  missionary  army  has  been  able 
to  place  its  outposts  on  the  salient  points  of  all  the  Western 
provinces  but  Hunan.  This  is,  indeed,  a  great  deal,  and  only 
one  who  has  been  in  China  and  seen  the  difficulties  of  getting 
a  single  outpost  can  fully  understand  it. 

Then  it  is  no  small  matter  that  a  native  church  has  been 
gathered  in  many  various  centres,  and  has  given  to  the  world 
a  loving  demonstration  of  what  the  Gospel  can  <1()  for  Chi- 
nese men  and  women.     The  first  Chinese  convert  that,  after 


-^L 


fDS. 


LAST  (./J.vpsj-s  or  r ft  ISA. 


465 


cult  thirty 
lina  it  ik  a 
look  over 
es  irj  most 
'hrist  dur- 

provinwR 
more  than 
Lilly  thirty 
■4  principal 
Dvinces  of 
n  occupied 
ety  which 
tiina,  -the 
led  its  sta- 
he  North- 
has  joined 
lid  Shansi, 
itions,  and 
t  l>een  ahle 
e  Western 
I,  and  only 
of  getting 

1  has  heen 

the  world 

0  for  Chi- 

that,  after 


seven  years  of  waiting,  n^warded  the  faith  of  Rohert  Morri- 
son, was  the  pledge  of  all  the  rest.  Tiie  first  forty  thousand 
converts  that,  after  two  generations,  have  rewarded  the  faith 
of  the  church,  ar«i  the  patterns  and  the  pledges  of  the  millions 
that  God  can  as  easily  gather  from  the  land  of  Sinini. 

When  a  man  wants  to  manufacture  a  valuahlti  machine, 
he  first  makes  a  mod(>l,  and  he  takes  a  good  while  to  i»erfect 
it.  Years  often  are  spent  in  tests  and  improvements,  until 
at  last  his  model  is  ready  and  his  patent  is  issued.  Then  it  is 
easy  to  multiply  it  hy  millions. 

During  these  years  God  has  been  preparing  His  patterns 
in  China.  He  has  been  waiting,  piahaps,  for  a  higher  type 
of  native  Christians.  And  when  He  gets  them  He  can  easily 
multiply  them  by  millions.  In  the  churches  at  home  we 
have  often  quantity  enough  ;  what  we  want  is  (juality,  — a 
higher,  nobler,  diviner  type. 

Thank  God,  some  of  these  have  be«ni  rising  up  in  China. 
We  have  met  some  noble  specimens  of  native  Christians. 

There  is  an  old  man  in  one  of  the  cities  on  the  Yangtse, 
whose  elder  brother  threatened  to  bury  him  alive  if  he  did  not 
conform  to  the  native  custom  and  have  his  mother  buried 
with  idolatrous  rites.  He  stood  firm,  and  told  his  family  that 
it  was  a  rare  privilege  to  be  permitted  to  suffer  persecution 
for  Jesus'  sake.  He  would  have  stood  unto  death,  had  not 
God  delivered  \\h  by  laying  His  hand  on  that  wicked  brother 
and  taking  him    us  of  the  world. 

There  are  two  men  in  China,  who,  a  few  months  ago, 
when  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Turner  were  to  be  beaten  in  Western  Sz- 


11 


RIlliPiiiiiPiliilliHi 


466       r.ARGKR  OVTI.OOKS  OS  MISSIONARY  I.ANOS, 

chuen.  t.>  api>eaHe  the  l.«ople,  offered  to  take  the  punishment 
theiuHelves,  an<l  now,  instead  of  wanti..^  syn.pathy,  they  are 
said  to  be  the  happi<!Ht  men  in  China. 

Tlieie  is  an  old  native  pastor  in  Shansi,  whose  8i...ple 
faith  in  God  has  brought  help  and  healing  to  th<.usands  and 
who  teaches  his  people  to  trust  God  Just  as  Pastor  Blumhardt 
i„  Germany,  Dr.  Hoardn.an  in  I.ondon.  Dr.  Culhs  n.  Boston 
and  others.      There  are  thousands  of  native  Christians  m 
Shantung,  who,  according  to  the  testimony  of  Dr.  ^evln8 
believe  in  the  unchanged  power  of  the  Son  of  God  to  cast  out 
devils,  and  who,  in  thousands  of  cases,  have  claimed  ttie  de- 
liverance of  Satan's  captives,  and  seen  the  power  of  God,  as 

in  the  days  of  old. 

And  s.)  God  has  been  preparing  the  forces  and  posting 
them  at  the  great  strategic  points,  not  so  much  with  refer- 
ence to  the  mere  preliminary  results  which  we  have  yet  seen, 
but  preparatory  to  the  great  advance  which  He  is  abou  to 
make,  we  earnestly  believe,  with  a  view  to  the  evangehzatioa 
of  the  whole  of  this  mighty  Empire. 


IJV/>X 


Hi  punishment 
athy,  they  are 

whose  Hii.iple 
housands,  and 
tor  Bhimhardt 
lUis  in  Boston, 
3  Christians  in 
of  Dr.  Kevins, 
Ood  to  cast  out 
ilainied  the  de- 
Avor  of  God,  as 

i;ea  and  posting 
uch  with  refer- 
B  liave  yet  seen, 
He  is  about  to 
0  evangelization 


XXV. 

THE  MISSIONARY  OUTLOOK  IN  CHINA. 

THE  London  Missionary  Society  is  one  of  the  oldest— in- 
deed, thi!  oldest  society  in  Cliina.     Under  its  auspices, 
Morrison,  Mcnlhurst  and  Marshman  came  as  the  first 
l)ionoers  to  the  closed  gates  of  Canton.     It  is  still  one  of  the 
strongest  and  most  successful  agencies  in  the  empire.     We 
had  the  plea.^ure  of  meeting  its  missionaries  at  their  central 
stations  in  Canton,  Shanghai,  Hankow,  Tientsin  and  Peking, 
•and  seeing  nmch  of  its  substantial  work.     It  is  one  of  the 
most  conservative  societies  in  China,  and  believtis  in  doing 
good  and  solid  work,  and  taking  time  to  do  it  well.     Its  mis- 
sionaries are  well  paid  and,  as  a  rule,  well  qualifte<l  and  some- 
what highly  educated.     Its  work  in  Hankow  is,  perhaps,  the 
best  type  of  its  methods  and  success.     Rev.  Griffith  John, 
the  head  of  that  Mission,  is  a  man  of  great  strength  of  per- 
sonal character,  and  his  influence  :s  strongly  felt  throughout 
.the  whole  Mission,  and,  indeed,  the  whole  of  China.     The 
special  feature  of  the  Mission  is  the  concentration  of  the 
forces  at  the  centre  and  the  building  up  of  a  strong  work 
there,  without  attempting  too  wide  a  (drcle.     The  London 
Society  has  done  grand  service  in  all  its  great  centres,  but 
only  aims  directly  to  occupy  a  limited  field,  and  it  represents 
467 


r^■ 


468         LARGER  OVTLOOKS  OS  MISSIOXARY  LANDS. 

the  idea  of  concentration  rather  than  wide-spread  distrihu- 

tion. 

At  the  other  extreme  stands  the  China  Inland  Mission,, 
representing  the  idea  of  a  universal  and  ever-aggressive  evan- 
gelism for  the  whole  of  China.  Its  history  is  an  inspiring 
and  instnu^tive  lesson.  It  hegan  with  the  personal  work  of 
its  founder,  Mr.  Hudson  Taylor,  nearly  thirty  years  ago,  and 
has  grown  up  in  a  generation  to  be  the  largest  missionary 
agency  in  China  and  in  the  world. 

Its  great  distinctive  purpose  has  ever  been  to  send  the- 
Gospel  to  the  unoccupied  portions,  and,  especially,  the  in- 
terior of  China.  It  has  so  far  succeeded  in  this  glorious  ob- 
ject that  its  stations  are  now  planted  in  all  but  four  of  the- 
provinces  of  China,  and  its  evangeUsts  have  preached  in  all,, 
we  believe.  It  is  the  only  society  laboring  in  a  number  of 
the  interior  provinces,  viz.,  Yunnan,  Kwei-chow  andKansuh, 
and  it  was  the  first  to  enter  Sz-chuen,  Shensi,  Shansi  and 
Honan,  where  others  have  since  followed,  and  are  building 
on  the  foundations  laid  by  these  brave  pioneers.  It  has  also 
many  stations  in  the  provinces  of  Che-Kiang,  Kiang-su, 
Kiangsi,  Ghanwhei,  Shantung,  Chih-li  and  Hupeh,  where  the 
older  societies  are  chiefly  grouped.  Altogether  it  has  more 
than  five  hundred  missionaries,  and  occupies  over  one  hun- 
dred stations  in  the  best  strategic  points  throughout  the  em- 
pire. 

Its  government  is  Episcopal,  the  whole  work  being  under 
a  director,  and  each  point  of  the  field  governed  by  a  superin- 
tendent.    Its  missionaries  are  characterized  by  much  sim- 


LANDS. 

)iea(l  distribU' 

nland  Mission,, 
^gressiveevan- 
s  an  inspiring 
reonal  work  of 
years  ago,  and 
est  missionary 

in  to  send  the 
icially,  the  in- 
lis  gloi'ious  ob- 
ut  four  of  the- 
reached  in  all, 
1  a  number  of 
w  andKansuh, 
Lsi,  Shansi  and 
d  are  building 
s.  It  has  also 
ang,  Kiang-su, 
ipeh,  where  the 
er  it  has  more 
over  one  hun- 
ighout  the  em- 

)rk  being  under 

i  by  a  superin- 

by  much  sim- 


r///r  MISSION Ak'V  outlook  in  china. 


469 


plicity,  self-denial  and  consecrated  zeal.  Its  methods  are  ag- 
gressive and  economical.  Its  history  is  a  record  of  faith, 
providence  and  the  power  of  the  H  »ly  Ghost.  Its  unwritten 
record,  every  week,  is  full  of  incidents,  revealing  the  spirit 
of  true  sacrifice  and  heroism  and  the  mighty  working  of  God 
in  many  parts  of  China.  Doubtless,  it  has  the  imperfec- 
tions of  all  human  things,  but  in  its  chief  aims,  as  an  aggres- 
sive, economical  and  far-reaching  effort  to  evangelize  China 
by  humble,  consecrated  and  Scriptural  agencies,  it  has  so  far 
been  successful  in  an  extraordinary  degree,  and  it  is  as  yet 
only  at  the  threshold  of       holy  career. 

Between  these  two  societies,  a  great  number  of  others 
may  be  ranked  as  they  partake  more  of  the  peculiar  charac- 
teristics of  either. 

The  Presbyterian  Missions  are  located  in  most  of  the 
great  centres.  The  Northern  Presbyterians  are  .strongly  es- 
tablished in  Canton,  Shangliai,  Nanking,  Chefoo  and  Peking. 
Their  most  suc-cessful  Mission  is  in  Chefoo,  and  is  represented 
by  such  names  as  Drs.  Nevius  and  Corbett. 

The  Southern  Presbyterians  are  working  along  tiie  Grand 
Canal  in  the  province  of  Kiang-su.  The  Canadian  Presby- 
terians, after  a  brave  fight,  have  won  a  good  position  in  Ho- 
nan.  The  English  Presbyterians  have  a  noble  work  in  Amoy 
and  Swatow,  founded  by  Wm.  Burns.  The  Irish  and  United 
Presbyterians  have  a  fine  work  in  Neuchang  and  Manchuria, 
ii  northern  province,  just  outside  of  China  proper. 

The  Baptists  have  a  most  successful  Mission  in  Swatow, 
and  have  recently  entered  the  great  province  of  Sz-chuen. 


n 


u- 


I  i 


470       LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  M/SSIONARY  LANDS. 

The  Southern  Baptists  have  a  good  work  in  Canton  and 
vicinity,  and  also  in  Shanghai.  The  Enghsh  Baptists  are 
in  Shantung,  the  Canadian  Baptists  in  Shensi,  and  the 
Seventh  Day  Baptists  in  Shanghai. 

The  Methodists  have  a  strong  work  in  China.    The  Eng- 
lish Methodists  are  very  strong  in  Canton,  Hankow,  and 
vicinity,  and  Tientsin.  The  Canadian  Methodists  have  found- 
ed a  strong  Mission  in  Sz-chuen,  under  Mr.  Hart,  formerly 
of  our  Board.     The  Southern  Methodists  have  a  good  work 
in  Shanghai  and  vicinity,  and  the  Northern  Methodists  have 
strong  Missions  in  Foochow,  Nanking,  Ku-Kiang,  Wuhu, 
Chin-Kiang,  Tientsin  and  Peking.     As  in  India,  their  meth- 
ods are  well  planned  and  strongly  carried  out,  and  while  a 
good  deal  of  their  work  is  educational,  yet  it  is  pervaded  by 
a  most  earnest  and  aggressive  spirit,  and  baptized  with  the 

Holy  Ghost. 

The  American  Board  has  a  good  work  m  Canton,  m 

Shantung,  in  Peking,  and  in  Shansi. 

The  American  Episcopalians  are  posted  along  the  Yang- 
tse  at  Shanghai,  Wuchang,  and  other  points.    The  English 
Episcopalians  are  at  Peking,   Suchow,   Ningpo,  Shanghai, 
Hong  Kong,  and  several  other  points.    The  Disciples  are 
working  in  Central  China  at  Nanking  and  Wuhu.  The  Quak- 
ers are  at  Nanking.     Several  Swedish  and  Norwegian  Socie- 
ties are  working  at  Wuchang  and  Hankow.    Several  German 
Societies  are  very  strongly  estaWished  in  Quantung  and  Hong 
Kong.    The  Woman's  Union  Missionary  Society  have  an  ex- 
cellent school  and  hospital  in  Shanghai.    And  the  great  Bible 


II 


NPS. 

Cauton  and 
[Baptists  are 
isi,  and  the 

I.  The  Eng- 
[ankow,  and 

have  found- 
irt,  formerly 
a  good  work 
hodists  have 
ang,  Wuhu, 
,  their  meth- 

aud  while  a 
\  pervaded  by 
ized  with  the 

n  Canton,  in 

mg  the  Yang- 
The  Enghsh 
50,  Shanghai, 
Disciples  are 
lu.  TheQuak- 
fwegian  Socie- 
jveral  German 
ung  and  Hong 
ty  have  an  ex- 
bhe  great  Bible 


■/■///:  jf/ss/(hVAA'yor77.ooA-/xc//L\'.-i.  471 

Societies  of  England,  Scotlan.l,  an.l  America  are  working  in 

all  parts  of  the  empire. 

This  is  but  a  general  a.ul  imperfect  view  of  the  distribu- 
tion of  the  chief  batallions  of  the  missionary  army  <  )ur 
own  youthful  and  humble  work,  as  we  have  already  sliown. 
is  establishing  itself  in  five  different  centres  :  Quangsi  in  be 
south,  Ghanwhei  in  the  centre,  Wuchang  in  the  west,  1  e- 
king  in  the  northeast,  and  Shansi  in  the  far  -rtb  and  aims 
to  pursue  lines  and  methods  similar  to  those  of  the  China 

Inland  Mission.  . 

We  have  seen  many  methoas  of  missionary  work  m 
China.    There  is  much  e-lucational  work,  and  it  has  a  certam 
value,  especially  where  it  is  utilized  to  prepare  workers  for 
the  evangelistic  field,  but  we  Mieve  the  convct.on  is  gen- 
eral that  the  greatest  need  of  China  is  evangelism  rather  than 
education.    There  is  also  nmch  n.edical  mission  work,  an, 
we  have  examined  it  with  great  interest  and  seen  a  good  deal 
ot  the  hospital  and  dispensary  system  in  Canto.,,  Nanking, 
Shanghai  Wuhu.  Hankow  and  Tientsin,  and  we  have  a  high 
!pp:^r  ion  of  its  value  under  proper  conditions.    There  can 
Tno  doubt  of  its  utility  in  attracting  the  atten  ion  and 
toterest  of  the  natives  and  opening  their  minds  to  listen  to 
he  Gospel.    In  the  various  mission  hospitals  of  China,  more 
hanhdf  a  million  ,.eople  ai-e  annually  brought  into  direct 
ZLt  with  Christianity  and  Christian  teachers,  who  wou^d 
stably  be  cached  in  no  other  way.    They  come  t,^th^ 
hospitals  and  dispensaries  for  treatment,  and  all  of    hem 
stay  long  enough  to  hear  th,.  Gospel  once,  and  some  of  them 


nii 


i 


li! 


11 


Al- 


LARGER  OrTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  I..  \XDS, 


stay  for  weeks  mikI  are  taught  as  regularly  as  they  are  pre- 
scribed foi'.  Their  successful  ti'citnieiit  inspii-es  them  with 
giatitude.  and  a  measure  of  confidence  in  the  missionary,  and 
they  are,  at  least,  more  ready  to  hear  his  message.  Only- 
one  who  knows  something  of  the  intense  indifference  and 
contem])t  which  the  ordinary  Chinaman  feels  for  Christian- 
ity and  the  foreigner  can  appreciate  even  this  advantage. 
Now.  if  this  could  he  thoroughly  followed  up  in  every  case, 
and  wholly  turned  to  missionary  account,  it  would  be  of 
mucli  greater  value.  Often,  we  feai-,  through  the  over- 
pressure of  the  medical  staff,  the  service  rendered  is  chiefly  a 
luofi'ssional  one.  and  there  is  not  time  or  workers  sufficient 
to  follow  every  case  to  his  or  her  house,  and  make  these  im- 
l)ortant  beginnings  links  in  a  thorough  system  of  evangehsm  ; 
and  so  much  is  lost.  The  staff  ought  to  be  strong  enough  to 
enable  every  medical  missionary  to  give,  at  least,  half  his 
time  to  evangelistic  work.  Where  he  is  simply  a  successful 
surgeon,  and  his  record  shows  how  many  difficult  operations 
lie  has  performed  in  the  year,  and  Ikhv  much  suffering  and 
mortality  he  has  prevented,  he  had  better  remain  at  home 
and  practice  his  profession  under  more  favorable  circum- 
stances than  he  can  find  in  China.  Medical  missions  have  no 
value  save  as  an  entering  wedge  for  the  Gospel,  and  as  such 
they  have  still,  if  properly  directed  and  guarded,  a  real 
utility  in  China,  especially  in  the  opening  of  new  fields  where 
the  prejudice  against  Christianity  and  foreigners  is  so  great 
that  the  ordinary  missionary  would  not  be  permitted  to  enter 
or  reside. 


IXDS. 

hey  are  pre- 
?  them  with 
siouary,  and 
sage.  Only 
Terence  and 
)r  Christian- 
advantage. 
L  every  case, 
vould  be  of 
li  the  over- 
i  is  chiefly  a 
irs  sufficient 
ke  these  ini- 
evangelisni ; 
g  enough  to 
ast,  half  his 
a  successful 
t  operations 
iffering  and 
lin  at  home 
ible  circum- 
ions  liave  no 
and  as  such 
•ded,  a  real 
fields  where 
5  is  so  great 
tted  to  enter 


7///;   .1//.V.SA).V./A")-  OI'TI.OOK  IS'  CHfSA. 


473 


We  have  no  sympathy  with  the  objection  which  is  some- 
times nia<h^  by  the  friends  of  Divine  healing,  and  which  has 
been  sent  to  us  by  tlie  last  mail  from  Australia  in  a  folio  of 
many  j.ages,  viz.,  that  such  missions  are  contrary  to  the 
Scriptures  and  the  principles  of  Divine  healing.  We  do  not  see 
this.  Divine  lu-aling  is  f..r  God's  c-hildren  who  know  how  to 
trust  Him.  But  medical  missions  are  for  poor  heathen  who 
4o  not  know  anything  of  the  T.ord.  an<l  who  must  first  be 
brought  to  listen  to  the  truth  and  learn  t<.  trust  the  Saviour 
for  themselves. 

So  far  as  method  is  concerned,  we  umst  frankly  say  that 
we  have  seen  much  good  under  all  methods,  and  while,  doubt- 
less, all  things  being  equal,  the  best  results  will  be  obtamed 
under  th,>  best  modes  of  working,  yet  much  more  depends 
upon  the  spirit  of  the  worker,  an.l  a  man  full  of  the  Holy 
Ghost  and  the  hn-e  of  souls  will  be  blessed  with  fruit  under 

any  St'riptural  system. 

Undoubti^dly,  the  most  valuable  agency  in  China  is  the 
native  woikers  themselves.     They  can  reacli  their  country- 
men as  the  foreigner  never  can.     Especially  in  the  strongly 
anti-foreign  provinces  like  Hunan  and  (^langsi  we  must  rely 
chietly  upon  them  to  introduce  the  Gospel.      The  great  diffi- 
culty "is  to  procure  them.     God  is  slowly  raising  up  a  small 
army  of  native  preac-bers   who    are    of    inestimable  value. 
Money  cannot  obtain  them-indeed.  it  often  spoils  them.  God 
only  can  i)roduce  an.l  prepare  them.     Let  us  pray  the  Lord  of 
the  harvest  to  send  forth  many  of  these  laborers  mto  His 
harvest. 


w 


fMI! 


!  :i 


474         LARCKK   OVTLOOXS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

Through  all  these  various  agencies,  now  having;;,  perhaps, 
1,500  foreign  missionaries  and  twice  as  many  natives,  there 
are  in  the  whole  of  China  several  hundred  centres  of  Gospel 
influence  and  j (reaching,  and  about  4<»,000  members  gathered 
into  the  various  native  churches. 

When  we  consider  all  the  difficulties  of  the  situation,  this 
18,  as  we  have  said,  iimch, — very  much.  The  points  that  have 
been  occupied  represent  great  centres  of  work,  and  great  pos- 
sibilities of  future  expansion  and  great  victories  over  almost 
insuperable  difficulties. 

But  when  we  compare  even  this  with  the  yet  iinoccupied 
field,  we  shrink  appalled  from  the  spectacle  of  China's  desti- 
tution. 

If  we  take  even  the  provinces  that  are  most  fully  occu- 
pied, the  yet  neglected  wastes  are  simply  immense.  Qnan- 
tang  is  the  oldest  missionary  field  in  China,  and  is  ordinarily 
regarded  as  a  fairly  evangelized  province.  And  yet,  within 
five  miles  of  Canton,  we  visited  villages  where  a  foreigner 
was  an  absolute  novelty,  and  Dr.  Henry  tells  us  in  his  volume 
that  if  he  had  them  he  could  place  more  than  one  hundred 
missionaries  along  the  lines  that  have  been  opened  up  by  the 
Presbyterians  alone  in  that  single  province. 

The  province  of  Kiang-su.  in  Central  China,  is  one  of  the 
best  occupied  in  the  empire.  It  is  the  province  in  which  the 
great  centres  of  Shanghai,  Nanking,  Su-chow,  Hang-chow, 
Yang-chow  and  Chin-Kiang  are  situated  with  their  strong 
missions.  It  is  also  one  of  the  coast  provinces,  and  not  in 
the  interior  at  all.     The  groat  Yangtse  River  runs  through 


JVDS. 

tig,  perhaps, 
itives,  there 
!S  of  Gospel 
^rs  gathered 

tuation,  this 
its  that  have 
id  great  pos- 
over  almost 

unoccupied 
lina's  desti- 

fuUy  occii- 
ose.  Quan- 
s  ordinarily 

yet,  within 
a  foreigner 

I  his  volume 
ne  hundred 
d  up  hy  the 

8  one  of  the 

II  which  the 
rlang-chow, 
their  strong 

and  not  in 
>ns  throngrh 


■n//-:  .v/ss/OA-.i^'y  ofr/.ooA-  ix  cnrsA. 


475 


it  in  one  direction  and  the  Grand  Canal  ,n  anothe.    And  yet 
n^issionaries  who  have  been  through  the  ^^^^^^^ 
ince  during  the  past  year,  told  us  o   vdlage  afte    -Hag.  and 
citv  after  city,  and  cities  great  and  populous,  too,  that  ha.l 
:      fd  ne/e'r  have  had  a  single  voice  to  teU  the..  ..Jesu. 
The  great  province  of  Ghanwhei  is  m  the  h(^art  of  China. 
The  great  highway  of  national  travel  runs  through  its  midst 
T^:^  of  acceL,  lying  on  hoth  sides  ..  the  Yaiigts.  and 
not  more  than  four  hundred  miles  from  the  coast.     It  had  a 
population  before  the  rebellion  as  large  as  France.     It  ha 
!ow  nerhaps   twenty  millions.     In  it  there  are  several  great 
Tu^'  dZ  'which'are  capitals  of  districts,  and  there  are 
nearly  sixty  walled  county  towns  or  ''H'sien^'  eities.  as  they 
a  e  cllled,  besides  hundreds  of  great  market  towns  and    hcni- 
sands  -yes,  tens  of  thousands-  .>f  populous  villages  and  yet, 
ut :;  an  this  population  and  out  of  all  tl-e  ^^^'^^^^^^^^^^^^^ 
to-day  less  than  ten  separate  points  occupied  in  all  tins  prov 
nee  and  if  our  Alliance  missionaries  are  counted  out,  there 
T'aW  a  dozen  foreign  missionaries,  all  told,  among  all 

the^p  tens  of  millions.  . 

And  what  shall  we  s..y  of  the  „-eat  interior  pvovmce. 
Hunan,  with  perhaps  fifteen  millions  of  inhabitants,  has  not 
Tsing.;  missionary.    Kwei-ehow  ami  ^nnnan  -  the  «.u  h 
west   have  just  a  few  pioneer  stations  of   *«  Chma    In 
Cd  Mission     The  same  is  true  of  Kansuh  and  Shensnn  the 
"est.    And  Quangsi,  in  the  south,  is  yet  v.rgnr  so,l      In 
:S^hTna  there  1  about  ,,..>0  of  these  •■H's.en     c,t,es  o. 
f  unty  towns,  and  each  of  then,  represents  a  population  o£ 


mmm 


■  iiiHv  iiMittteaif>a-«  I  - 


476 


LARGER  01  r LOOKS  OS'  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


nearly  a  (luaitor  of  a  inilliou  souls.  It  is  not  too  much  to 
say  that  proljably  l,40(»  of  them  are  yet  without  a  niissiou- 
aiy.     The  <lestitution  is,  indeed.  apj)aUing. 

And  the  ditficulties  are  very  great.  Each  new  city  that 
is  occupied  re]»resent8  months  and  sometimes  years  of  patient 
tact,  beUeving  prayer  and  heroic  hai'dship.  As  an  angler 
would  catch  a  fish,  so  nnist  the  missionary  catch,  "with 
guile,"  this  unfiiendly  race.  First,  the  town  must  be  visited, 
perhaps  again  and  again,  by  the  evangelist,  as  he  pioneers 
and  feels  his  way.  Then  a  native  worker  nmst  go  for  a  time 
and  slowly  win  his  way  into  the  confidence  of  some  of  the 
])eople.  Then  a  house  must,  if  possible,  be  rented,  and  often 
this  is  imjwssible.  The  pm-chasing  of  land  or  building  of  a 
house  is  out  of  the  question  for  at  least  five  or  ten  years.  It 
is  a  great  thing  if  you  can  get  a  lease  of  a  native  house.  And 
when  you  do,  you  must  not  alter  it  so  as  to  attract  any  atten- 
tion, or  you  will  cross  some  of  their  superstitious  prejudices. 
After  you  have  moved  in  and  settled  down,  it  is  quite  possi- 
ble you  may  be  diiven  out  by  an  anti -foreign  mob  before  a 
month,  and  the  man  that  rented  you  the  house  beaten  by  the 
authorities  for  letting  you  in.  Or,  if  they  let  you  stay,  it  is 
simply  on  sufferance.  E^  ery  dog  on  the  street  growls  at  you 
as  an  offense.  Every  buffalo  on  the  road  snuffs  at  you  as  an 
intruder.  Every  small  boy  is  apt  to  call  you  a  "foreign 
devil."  And  you  may  feel  highly  complimented  if,  after  two 
years,  the  neighbors  deign  to  nod  to  you  on  the  street  or  bid 
you  good  morning. 

That  is  about  the  story  of  the  opening  of  an  ordinary 


'DS. 

much  to 
I  rnission- 

T  city  that 
of  patient 
an  angler 
;h,  ''with 
be  visited, 
3  pioneers 
for  a  time 
me  of  the 
and  often 
Iding  of  a 
years.  It 
)use.  And 
any  atten- 
)rejudices. 
uite  possi- 
b  before  a 
ten  by  the 
stay,  it  is 
kvls  at  you 
you  as  an 
' '  foreign 
after  two 
reet  or  bid 

I  ordinarv 


THF.  M/SSIO\.lKy  OUTLOOK'  /.V  ClirNA.  477 

Chinese  town.  And  when  you  think  of  the  fourteen  hun- 
dred municipal  cities  that  are  yet  to  be  entered,  and  the  more 
than  a  million  villages  ytto  be  evangelized,  it  will  be  inam- 
fest,  we  think,  how  real  a  task  lies  before  the  Church  of  Go<l 
and  how  stirring  the  challenge  that  is  summoning  our  faith 
and  courage  to  prove  our  God  to  the  uttermost  these  last 
years  of  the  Century  and  the  Dispensation. 

What  can  be  done  to  meet  this  need  more  effectually  ? 
1    Make  the  most  of  the  existing  centres  and  hues  of 
operation.     They  have  cost  much.    Utilize  them  to  the  ut- 
most    Support  every  existing  mission  in  China  with  all  the 
backing  it  can  receive.  If  we  could  persuade  a  thousand  mis- 
sionaries to  go  to  China,  and  a  thousand  people  to  support 
them  in  connection  with  all  the  existing  boards  and  agencies, 
we  would  just  as  gladly  do  so  as  through  our  own.     Only  as 
many  missionaries  can  be  used  in  China  as  there  are  open^ 
ings  for,  and  when  these  openings  have  been  already  prepared 
at  great  strategic  points,  man  them,  and  man  them  to  the 
uttermost.    The  force  at  all  the  existing  stations  in  China 
might  probably  be  doubled,  and  every  station  could,  without 
the  least  difficulty,  take  care  of  the  duplicates  and  find  su- 
perb openings  for  them  as  soon  as  they  are  ready.     Indeed 
at  one  of  the  great  mission  centres  in  China,  some  of  the  old 
missionaries  of  the  other  boards  offered  to  take  a  number  of 
our  young  men  and  women  and  keep  them  for  three  years, 
teaching  them  the  methods  of  mission  work  and  receiving 
their  help  in  many  ways  in  which  even  a  junior  missionary 
could  assist.  We  wish  we  could  reach  the  ear  of  the  churches 


*»J!i)l,'J);!'««."*l-,'M 


tii 


„,  .,„„...  ..a  „.,..a  wuh  t.-e,„  to  se„a  «  w„„u.  ..^  at 

„„«,  t,.  .-..info™  the  lorn.  "^  P-^-'  ,^  -;„,  „„„  „„„ared 

^„  wish.  ->»-^  •_,    ;^  J:„  „t,Uo,«whKhth«  China 
ment<.»ui.|.lom...itth.M,.u,lm  «  ^^ 

''""f  4l"r  a,  ne.-  agencies  a,v  concerned,  and  onr  own 

2.  So  «•"  "'  "*^''  /^  ^„„,e  conditions  peculiar  to 

r'  ':hrsrc!w.;a        itthoiLihiiityoenn-itiplyingthe 

China,  <"-  «""^^      ^^„^.,.  ,„„„tries.    Wecannot  send  men 
forces  as  rap.dly  >«    '  "'  „„^  ^       ,«„„  o£  money 

at  will  to  any  part  of  t  hm. .     "  „„,t  be 

-"'"rf::"::  d  try  :r::":,«t  fro™  Uesai. 

^'T       nel      A  net  min  without  the  language  cannot 
ready  opened.     A    .c«  ^..^^  j,^^  ,^„. 

"'^""'':/n::\::cri  o,  lanewandanti-foreigncity. 

,,ist  or  an  "P"---— --::::;. ^^^  iX  and 
prejudice,  preach  the  (.ospu  ^_^^  ^^_^^^ 

^,«,  a  while  secure  premises.    "  '*«;j  ^,„.^,^  ^3 

J.        *  Ua  firt^t,  centres  and  its  expen^""^" 
time  to  get  its  fitst  centr  ^    .^..^ion  must  neces- 

::^7h:r::htgri:i.*x\he  muUucationo.»pia.t 


PS. 

e  hundred 
1  the  Chma 
(ry  |)art  of 
reinforce - 
ini\y  rnain- 
,he  work  of 
at  it  is  not 
or  HiB  dear 

lid  our  own 
I  peculiar  to 
Itiplying  the 
tot  send  men 
on  of  money 
,vay  must  be 
111  centres  al- 
;uage  cixnnot 
A-ith  the  lan- 
.-foreign  city. 
I  native  evau- 
j  way,  disarm 
>ll  books,  and 
mission  some 
I  workers  and 
1  nmst  neces- 
tion  of  a  plant 


'/•///;   ;J//.s.s/(^V./A')-  OUTLOOK  IN  CHINA.  479 

from  a  single  root.    The  more  centres  it  can  have  the  better, 
if  they  are  sufficiently  eonnected  to  secnr.  united  woi-kmg 
and  mutual  support.     Therefore,  we  hav.  planted  already  m 
China  a  nund.er  of  central  stations  in  different  sections,  and 
in  each  of  these  we  have  begun  to  scatter  the  workers  ^^^ 
parties  ..f  two,  to  their  mM>arate  stations  just  as  fast  as  they 
lave  the  language  and  can  obtain  oiKunngs.     In  this  ^v^  we 
are  preparing  posts  for  new  recruits,  and  after  a  while  we 
ZIZ.  a  doL>n  <.r  a  score  of  centi.s,  to  each  of  which  a 
ittle  band  of  reinforcements  can  go,  and  from  which    hey. 
in  their  turn,  can  start  new  centres  which  shall,  in  their  turn, 
nudtiply  yet  more  widely  until  all  the  field  is  covered. 

In  the  province  of  Ghanwhei  already  there  is  room  for 
at  least,  a  hundred  such  centres,  and  each  of  these  should 
have  f  om  two  to  five  missionaries.     Wuchang,  our  latest 
centre  looks  out  to  the  south,  the  west  and  the  north  on 
n  ot  than  half  a  dozen  great  provinces,  each  of  which  needs 
at  least,  one  hundred  centres,  and  three  hundred  men  as  fas 
as  the  openings  can  be  found  and  the  men  placed.     Oui 
Swedish  friends  in  Northern  Shansi  hope  to  «i;;-d -e  long 
through  Shansi  and  Kansuh,  but  the  forty  who  have  just 
gone  ai.  as  many  as  can  be  profitably  located  now,  and  as 
?hey  become  established  they  will  move  forwai^  and  prepare 
the  way  for  others.     In  Quangsi,  in  the  south,  a  party  o 
half  a  dozen  can  be  immediately  utihzed,  and  as  they  plant 
the  soles  of  their  feet  upon  the  land,  P-^^aps  a  dozen^^^^^^^^^ 
can  join  them,  and  they,   in  turn,   can  double  until  this 
Tglited  field  shall  be  planted  with  a  hundred  points  of 


• 


48o         J.AKCKK   OVII.OOKSO.-I  MISSIO^AKY  LAMPS. 

light  It  is  thu«  that  the  w„rk  nuist  «o  on  i..  (  lii.u.,  by  a 
wise'  proK.,  .>Bion,  accrf.vating  .s  it  «>•.,«»,  untU,  ,„  a  ej 
year,  then,  n,,-!  be  -  a^ly  any  lin.it  to  t ...  nu.nber  of 
.Kencie,  that  may  b,.  .i,  «rihute,I  a..,l  .•"M*)y«l- 

Of  course,  the  ai,n  of  all  ..ur  foreign  aKenaen  .«  to  ra.»e 
•  „,,  an  arn,y  of  native  worke,.  an.l  train  th,.,n  to  ,lo  th.K  work 
themnelve,.    Bnt  this  ,,roce,s  is  -"■"•'«''»' ;'''"' •;"',' V™ 
present  generation  of  China  is  to  be  evangeh/..Hl  ,t  ,n«st  1« 
Ey  I'y  foreign  agency.     Foreign  .  vangelism  .«  n.ore  sue. 
ceLl  in  China  than  in  n.ost  other  fields.     In  In.ha  very 
Zy  of  the  missionaries  are  chietly  superintendents  anU 
train  the  natives  to  do  n.ost  of  the  ,„oneer  work.     Bntm 
China  the  most  successfnl  „,ission,mes  are  »'-"-" 
persistent  evangelists.     Men  like   Dr.   Henry,  of   Cant«D 
O  if^th  ..ohn,  of  Hankow,  Dr.  Corbett,  of  Si,antung,  and 
many  mo.,  sioh  well-known  ,.a,.u.s,  with  all  the.r  g,eat  ex- 
Itive  and  litera.y  ability,  delight  to  go  o„t  a..,ong  the  ,«». 
pie  on  long  and  perilous  evangelistic  tours  and  ,,r^»h  the 
Cl  in  their  language  fron.  village  to  village  a,„.  house  to 
houL    And  we  are  glad  to  be  able  to  say  that    he  C  toese 
language  is  not  nearly  such  a  Je.icho  as  .t  seemed.    Ihl.gen 

toe  Ilmost  any  diligent  and  faithful  student  can  do  much 
useful  work  within  a  year,  and  can  do  Bometh.ng  ,n  s.x 
Znths.  It  is  not  half  so  difRolt  as  Japanese  a.,d  we  judge 
TrTt  much  harder  than  the  languages  of  Ind,a  ,n  Burmah. 
F.^egn  children  pick  it  ..p  more  quicklv  than  Enghsh.  Ite 
;Lb  »re  as  simple  a..d  monc«yllab.c.    ■,  ■  .■'.  charaae,« 


II 


la  KlJfSSfflS^ 


„j,„e5«t-S.»i'^S=«-**'^^'~"-"-'  ^ 


(  hiiiji,  by  a 

il,  in  a    ft'vv 

number  of 

iH  Ik  to  raise 
lo  thiH  work 
,  and  if  the 
,  it  mxiBt  ho 
is  nu»ro  suc- 
i  India  very 
eudents,  and 
ork.  But  in 
ccessful  and 

of    Canton, 
lantung,  and 
leir  {^reat  ex- 
iiong  the  peo- 
d  preach  the 
1  and  house  to 
t  the  Chinese 
led.     Diligent 
vsonably  short 
b  can  do  much 
lething  in  six 
,  and  we  judge 
ia  or  Burmah. 
1  Enghsh.    lis 

jf'i  characteiB 


■nn:  .^nssrox.ARy  ocn.ooh' r.\' riirs'.i.  481 

pictorial,  giving  a  vivid  and  ocular  image  of  the  thing  .h'tin.d 
Of  course,  it  tak.^  .  ^xny  years  fo  acpiire  perfect  :hien.  y  ami 
accurate  co.unnuul  of  the  langu.g..  But  no  one  need  de- 
spair of  oven  this  within  a  re,.Ho,uihle  time,  and  -.  kn.Avev.n 
young  missionaries  like  Mr.  Johnston  an.l  Mr.  Stanley  Smith, 
who  siieak  it  with  won.lerful  froed..rn  and  ix)WPr. 

For  our  own  work  in  e'hina,  the  innnediate  if>eds  that 
have  been  pressing  upon  our  heart  and  mind  during  these 

busy  months  have  been  :    " 

1  A  thorough  organization  and  .ompetent  superintend- 
ence of  the  whole  field  an<l  work.  This,  we  are  glad  to  say, 
has  been  granted  us  in  the  good  providence  of  God,  and  as 
we  leave  the  Eastern  Hemisphere  our  good  brother,  Mr.  Lela- 
chenr,  has  already  reached  his  post  at  Wuhu,  ar-d,  in  eonfer- 
ence  ^ith  our  brethren  there,  is  getting  ready  lor  the  great 

campaign. 

2  A  judicious  and  comprehensive  plan,  provi-  mg  tor  the 
needs  of  our  work  for  the  next  few  years,  and  adapted  to 
reach  the  most  needed  of  the  neglected  fields,  and  a-comphsh 
the  utmost  possible  for  the  evangelization  of  China  durmg 
the  present  generation,  at  least  through  the  mean^  and  re- 
sources at  our  command.  This,  we  trust,  GckI  has  .lao  been 
directing  us  to  do,  and  our  forces  are  already  being  di  tnbuted 
along  a  number  of  concerted  lines  of  operation,  an<i  accoTd- 
ing  to  a  prayerful  and  intelligent  plan. 

Z  The  distribution  of  our  workers  in  as  many  iistmct 
fiekte  as  can  be  judiciously  opened.    And  this  also  ha.  V.egun 
aud  within  a  month,  even  since  we  left  China,  .we  ha  e  had 


Wf-WMPgy 


I.ARCr.K  OUTLOOKS  OX  MfSX/ON.-IKr  f.AfDS 

the  most  encouraging  .epovt.  of  o,«ning.  that  have  been 
foil  ana  are  being  occnpied  in  new  and  most  important  sta- 

"""4   A  n.issionary  home  where  our  new  missionaries  can  at 
once  be  received  and  cared  for  while  they  are  Btudymg  the 
:„guage  during  the  first  six  or  twelve  months  nn  ,  defim 
openings  can  he  found  for  them  in  special  fields   This,  also  is 
in  p"«ess.    And  we  trust,  before  the  close  of  the  yearsuch  a 
hoL  .ill  be  ready  on  the  Yangtse  at  Wuhu,  to  be  fohowed, 
perhaps,  by  others,  if  need  be,  in  other  parts  of  the  field. 
'^      6    i  number  of  bauds  of  consecrated  men  ard  women 
but  es,«cially  men,  to  prepare  for  work  in  the  mtenor  of 
Ch  „a     We  do  rrot  feel,  at  present,  that  the  time  has  come 
to- much  woman's  work  in  connection  with  our  work  m 
China  except  a  small  number  of  married  women  to  go  w.th 
tte,r  husbands,  and  a  few  such  unmarried  women  as  are 
X  and  thoroughly  fitted,  and  intelligent  w.nmg  for  the 
hardships  and  privations  of  pioneer  work  m  the  mtenor.  %  e 
d*  ant  any  woman  to  go  to  China  mrless  she  knows 
■ust  what  this  means  and  chooses  it  uncompromismgly  and 
unreservedly  by  the  Lord's  own  leadmg. 

But  we  do  want  several  companies  of  young  men,  men 
of  the  highest  calibre,  men  of  gi-eat  intelligence,  much  prac- 
ticll  w^om,  fair  education,  deep  piety,  strong  courage,  real 
eW  dluM  and  such  spiritual  resources  that  they  are  not  go- 
:'  to  gSlonesle  and  unhappy  when  cut  off  h-om  human 
coCntship  andsympathy.    Moreover,  they  should bemon 
^Ivtely  caSed  to  the  work,  and  so  utterly  given  up  to.t. 


.AMDS 

lat  have  been 
important  sta- 

ionaries  can  at 
5  studying  the 
i,  until  definite 
s.  This,  also,  is 
the  year  such  a 
to  be  followed, 
)f  the  field, 
en  ard  women, 
the  interior  of 
time  has  come 
h  our  work  in 
men  to  go  with 
women  as  are 
willing  for  the 
ihe  interior.  We 
iiless  she  knows 
promisingly  and 

y^oung  men,  men 
mce,  much  prac- 
)ng  courage,  real 
they  are  not  go- 
off from  human 
ley  should  be  men 
ly  given  up  to  it. 


THl.   MISSIOSARY  OUTLOOK  IX  CHINA. 


483 


that  they  are  wilhng  to  abandon  all  thought  of  marriage,  and 
go  out  to  a  real  pioneer  soldier  life  for  at  loast  four  or  five 
years,  until  they  have  cut  their  way  through  all  their  early 
difficulties  and  won  a  permanent  station  and  home  where,  if 
the  Lord  leads  them,  they  may  then  begin  to  think  of  a  more 
settled  home-life  and  work.  We  want  half  a  dozen  such 
men  for  Quangsi,  in  the  south  ;  a  dozen,  at  least,  for  Central 
China  ;  and  half  a  dozen  for  Wuchang  and  Western  China 
besides  others  for  Thibet  and  Northern  China.  Only  God 
can  give  these  workers.    Let  us  pray  the  Lord  of  the  Harvest 

to  send  them.  ,,.     t.        ,  1 

6  We  need  a  few  reinforcements  for  Miss  Duow  s  work 
in  Peking,  but  these  are  already  arranged  for,  we  believe. 

7  We  hope  to  be  able  to  send  more  Swedish  missionaries 
as  soon  as  the  present  large  party  in  Shansi  shall  have  become 
properly  disposed  of,  and  estabhshed  in  their  work,  so  that 
others  can  take  their  places  or  join  them  in  their  work. 

8  And  wfc  need  a  few  married  couples,  at  certain  points, 
to  form  the  heads  of  homes,  and  take  charge  of  necessary 
executive  departments  of  the  work. 

9  We  greatly  need  native  helpers.  These  are  difficult 
to  obtain,  and  have  usually  to  be  raised  up  out  of  our  own 
work  God  has  given  us  a  few.  Let  us  ask  Him  for  many 
more  and  for  the  wisdom  needed  to  provide  for  the  traimng 
of  this  most  essential  class  of  helpers.  We  shall  soon  need, 
doubtless,  a  training  school  for  native  evangelists. 

10   Above  all,  we  need  the  working  of  His  mighty  Prov- 
idence* and  the  power  of  Hi.  Holy  Spirit.     Nothing  can  be 


aw^wiu-MMigWB*'— " 


■««!?!Sektw*ysy'^ 


■Bippmii'W"" 


!    '  I 


,84        LAKCr.R   OITI.OOKS  O.V  MISSW.V.IKY  LANDS. 

done  in  China  without  On,!.    The  work  is  transcendently 
difficult  and  n,ust  he  all  Divine.    For  this  reason  we  ha™ 
mXr  class  of  missionaries  in  China  such  as  we  have  found, 
Tot:  Lme  degree,  in  no  other  «eld  ;  n,en  and  --n^d-^  y 
conscious,  as  a  ml..,  of  their  utter  ^^^^^'^^l' T^f^^^l 
us  pray  for  them,  let  us  pray  for  our  own  breth.en  uncea. 
Lly  that  they  may  be  strong  in  the  Ix>rd  and  the  power  " 
Z  might,  for  they  wrestle  not  against  flesh  and  blood  but 
Slinst  principalities  and  powers,  against  the  rulers  of  the 
rrls'of  this  world  ;  against  spiritual  wicke.lness  m  hjgl 
nlaces     "  Put  on,  therefore,  the  whole  armor  of  God    that 
ylTay  be  able  to  withstand  in  the  evil  day    and  havmg 
LTall  to  stand.    .    .    .    Praying  always  wth  all  praye 
^d  supplication  in  the  spirit,  and  with  a"  pe.-ver»c»  fo. 
Ssainte"         .    .    that  all  utterance  may  be  given  them  to 
^reir  mouths  boldly  for  the  Gospel  for  which  they  are 
ambassadors  in  bonds. 


^'-liL 


riNDS. 

mscendently 
son  we  have 
5  have  found, 
romen  deeply 
on  God.    Let 
;hren  unceas- 
the  power  of 
nd  blood,  but 
rulers  of  the 
idness  in  high 
of  God,  that 
,  and  having 
ith  all  prayer 
rseverance  for 
given  them  to 
k^hich  they  are 


XXVI. 

FIRST  GLIMPSES  OF  JAPAN. 

WE  had  scarcely  got  out  of  the  Yau^•tse  when  we  no- 
ticed the  extraordinary  speed  at  which  the  steamer 
was  going.  Every  fibre  fairly  quivered  with  tl^e 
strain  of  her  tremendous  engines.  All  that  day  and  the  next 
s  c  flirly  Hew  over  the  sea  of  Japan,  until  the  spray  dashed 
^hc  tairiy  n^  slackened  her  pace 

in  fine  ram  over  our  taceb,  ana  sne  ue 

until  at  svu.set.  the  next  night,  we  saw  before  us  the  high 
rocks  that  guard  the  entrance  to  the  ^^-'•^^«^-^^^^;2^^;^ 

We  soon  learned  the  cause.    We  were  flyn.g  fro m  a  t)  - 
phoon,one  of  those  tremendous  cyclones  that  strike  the  east- 
er  "L  in  summer  like  a  lightning  breath,  and  m  an  mstant 
Lto  nbbons  the  stoutest  sail,  and  strong  enough  to  enable 
he  vessel  to  sail  and  steer  by  the  bare  mast,  when  even  tha 
not  torn  away  by  the  terrihc  gale.     Even  the  strongest 
lamship  has  all  she  can  do  even  to  hold  her  course  m  the 
te^h  of  the  tvphoon.     A  friend  of  ours  was  caught  m  one 
1  summer,  h!  one  of  the  great  ships  of  the  French  Mail  Lme 
rurfmest/perhap.,  in  the  East.     For  three  days   he  says 
they  were  all  locked  down  stairs,  while  the  great  slnp  was 
hterally  lifted  up  and  dashed  down  again  -f^g^';-  ^.^^^  f 
plavthing  in  the  grasp  of  a  giant,  untd  it  would  seem  as  if  it 

4^5 


486 


LARGER  OUTLOOKS  OX  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


must  be  pounded  to  pieces,  and  at  the  eud  of  the  storm  they 
found  that  they  had  hardly  moved  a  mile  on  their  course 

And  so  it  was  a  little  exciting  to  know  that  a  telegram 
had  come  to  Shanghai  that  a  typhoon  had  just  left  the  for- 
mer  port  that  day,  travelling  northward,  and  that  we  might 
get  out  of  its  course  by  swiftly  speeding  across  the  line  of  its 
march  before  it  reached  us.  We  saw  no  sign  of  its  commg 
but  we  knew  that  these  visitors  come  without  notice,  and 
that  the  sky,  this  moment  bright  and  clear,  might  the  very 
next  be  dark  with  the  dreadful  hurricane. 

But  we  quietly  trusted  and  prayed,  and  the  next  night 
as  we  entered  the  harbor  of  Nagasaki,  we  knew  that  through 
God's  goodness  we  had  escaped  it.  The  third  day,  as  we  sailed 
out  of  that  harbor  and  rounded  the  coast  to  enter  the  Inland 
Sea,  we  were  caught  in  its  tail,  and  the  slight  shaking  we  got 
gave  us  a  very  faint  idea  of  what  its  clutches  would  have 

^''' These  tremendous  storms  usually  start  at  the  Philippine 
Islands,  and  travelling  in  a  narrow  course  with  a  revolving 
spiral  motion,  sweep  on  to  Hong  Kong  and  then  up  the  Chi- 
nese coast,  usually  passing  out  to  sea  a  little  distance  above 
Shanghai     Thev  mow  a  swath  of  desolation  on  land  and  sea, 
and  many  of  th;  hapless  wrecks  they  leave  are  never  known. 
The  harbor  of  Nagasaki  is  said  to  be  the  prettiest  m  the 
Fast     We  do  not  consider  it  as  fine  as  Hong  Kong,  which 
still  remains,  in  our  judgment,  unapproached  if  not  unap. 
proachable  for  picturesque  grandeur.  ,u,,„„h 

But  the  picture  is  exceedingly  fine.    You  enter  through 


FIRST  c;Lnrps/:s  oi-japax. 


487 


INDS. 

a  storm  they 
ir  course. 
it  a  telegram 
left  the  for- 
lat  we  might 
Lhe  line  of  its 
if  its  coming, 
t  notice,  and 
light  the  very 

te  next  night, 
'  that  through 
y,  as  we  sailed 
ter  the  Inland 
baking  we  got 
}s  would  have 

the  Phihppine 
th  a  revolving 
len  up  the  Chi- 
distance  above 
n  land  and  sea, 
3  never  known, 
prettiest  in  the 
ig  Kong,  which 
id  if  not  unap- 

u  enter  through 


ure,  hke  a  Scotch  Uke  ^  ^^  ^,,        „„,,,,„„d. 

The  1"  effeiive  angles,  by  some  pvetty  Ughthou^e  or  hand- 


NAGASAKI. 


1       of  +Ho  ViPfld  of  the  little  harbor, 
the  native  uty,  w  J        ^  handsome  bungalows,  and 

green  look  like  carvmgs  and  chasmgs  on  tne 
frame  of  the  mirror  that  flashes  below. 


ji^^i,w-"''i)riii '  n' wr^ 


48« 


L.-IPCFP  orTLOOKS  oy  MrSSIOXARY  LAXDS. 


\mong  these  hillB  are  the  rocks  where,  more  than  two 
hundred   years  ago,  the  Martyr  Christians   of  Japan  wei-e 

liurled  to  death.  , 

In  these  waters,  too,  was  found  that  wonderful  copy  of 

the  Bible,  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago,  that  led  a  whole  vdlage 

to  Christ,  and  formed  one  of  the  beautiful  providential  Imk. 

in  the  oi.ening  of  niodern  missions  in  Japan 

Monday  morning  we  began  coaling,  and  we  had  a  good 
opportunity  to  study  native  character.    The  ^V^^- ^^^^ 
up  alongside,  and  a  great  crowd  of  boys  and  gn-^s  unloaded 
these  into  the  steamer.     It  was  a  curious  sight  to  see  those 
long  chains  of  mere  girls,  as  they  seemed,  standing  one  above 
another  up  the  ladders  on  the  sides  of  the  ship  a..d  dow    to 
the  holds  of  the  coal  barges,  passing  m  and  out  the  full  and 
eniptv  baskets,  with  songs  and  shouts  of  merriment.     \\  hat 
a  little  people,  and  what  a  joyous  and  cheerful  people  they 

""'^  A  "riksha"  ride  through  Nagasaki  showed  us  the  great 
Buddhist  temple  with  its  silly  priests  and  performances,  and 
V.retty  stores  and  streets,  so  clean  and  so  different  from  the 
nithy  scenes  we  had  just  left  in  China. 

In  the  Afternoon  we  sailed  out  again,  and  after  a  little 
tumbling  in  the  open  sea,  we  entered,  at  length,  the  beauti- 
ful "Inland  Sea,"  through  which  the  rest  of  our  voyage  t« 

Kobe  passed. 

The  "Inland  Sea"  is  the  jewel  of  Japan.  It  has  been 
compared  to  English,  Swiss  and  Scottish  lakes,  and  our  own 
-Thousand  Isles"  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  or  Lake  George  and 


r-IRST  CI./MPSES  OF  JAPAK. 


489 


3  than  two 
fai)au  were 

•ful  copy  of 
hole  village 
lential  links 

had  a  good 
liaiges  came 
rls  unloaded 
to  see  those 
ig  one  above 
and  down  to 
,  the  full  and 
iient.     What 
1  people  they 

I  us  the  great 
rniances,  and 
lent  from  the 

a  after  a  little 
,h,  the  heauti- 
our  voyage  to 

It  has  been 
,  and  our  own 
ke  Geox-ge  and 


TEMPLE  OF  BUDDHA,  NAGASAKI 


its  isle-adovned  bosoni.  It  is  a  sea  of  islands  much  larger 
than  any  of  these  expaiisos,  and  combining  many  elements 
of  interest  thev  lack.  It  is  about  three  hundred  miles  long, 
and  varies  in  width  from  five  to  fifty  miles. 

A  sheet  of  light  green  water,  at  least  three  hundred 
miles  long  inside  the  ocean  breakwaters,  its  surface  as 
rmt>th  as  glass,  save  when  its  fair  face  dimples  at  the  touch 


490       i.^/^^^^  orTLOOA-s  ox  .//.vv/oav/a'>-  l.lxds. 

t  Hu  Umoni  dotted  with  innuiner- 

able  .sluiuls  ">"  S-  y',;^  '^  '  ,„„,  „„„„,  »„„„  a  tVw  n,iU« 
and  low,  corneal  a»^  '» ;  ^  «,,^  „„  ,,,a,„t  „„,,  Vautiful  •. 
and  son.o  '^  ^'^'^ /''',,'''„.,„,  „£  Ught  grey  simd  to  ligl.t 

uptheu  daik  ^ue  ^^^^  ^^^^^.^  ^^^^^  ^^,^^^  j^^^ 

into  a  ^^-";^-^^/"^;!°Jj,i^  islandB 

jewels  cut  by  gigantic  hands  in  many  .   .,,„^^,^.,gp,i  ^itli 

iove^a  with  patches  0.. la... r«^ 

menaced  '>-"^^;'^  jtjet^^  village  nestling  hy  the 
green  and  »'";;;;,  ,ig^,„„„,,  with  its  snow  white 
«ea  ;  here  and  the..  ^  P  ^"^  ^  ^  ,,„„«  ,„,Uy  islet ;  here 

tower  and  w.i.d.ng  sta...  """"""^  .„„^  a  heautiful 

and  thereaflshin.  ^"^'^ZZ^Z:^^^"^'^  -Hh 
r^'^TiXlf  e::r  .'  l-Tlnd  „ers„eetive  new  a,.d 
tays  »'\'"  ^';.  n,','  hU  a  ga.,len-everyMcagen» 
strangely  heant.tul    ■^■"^'y  „  ,„,^^,„,  s,a.- 

anOrtarL.e.^isthe~nd^-^^ 

and  la,.ds  elevated  into  ™>»"ta...s  -.n     la^  .at  ^ . 

Lawrence  widened  into  a  ^^^^^  ^  a  .ine-clad  sho-es 

banks  of  the  H-'-" -;;';';;  '^X^.™'-'^  »'"^  -- 

of  the  Rhine  c,   ^M-'  ;,:^^    '  ,l„uf  as  Wi,.der„.ere  or 

s:::::— "^tLtsU^co...^^^^ 
-•--sr=:is:--u:::vnithen.. 


^^^Wfi'^JOt^'^ 


:ds. 

I  innuiner- 
iliuulrt  high 
I  few  iniU'tf 

beautiful  *, 
iinl  to  hght 
tht'ir  fronts 
ey  look  like 
118  -,  islands 
persed  with 
i  „f  lij^hter 
tling  by  tlio 

snow  white 
T  islet ;  here 
,  a  beau  tif  til 
ulfutt'd  with 
ve  nev^   and 
ry  isle  a  gem 
mdSea/' 
er  and  set  in 
li  their  shores 
m-s  of  the  St. 
It  is  the  high 
le-dad  shores 
anels  and  cir- 
rindermere  or 

or  Maggion;. 
ery  charm  as 
\  hold  them  all 


FIRST  aLi.-irrslis  of  jAr.w. 


491 


nut  together,  with  the  Tlu.usand  Isles  and  Lake  George 
tlvtn  n  We  sailed  through  it  for  thirty  hours,  and  our 
on  yU  was  that  nua-h  of  its  lovehness  --  l-t  -^^e 
veil  of  mist  and  clouds  that  rested  upon  M.  But  it  was 
;:etty  enough  to  enable  us  to  veali.e  what  .t  nmst  ho  unde. 
a  brilliant  sun,  and  a  clear,  transparent  sky. 


i;:^^4r*^S^ 


KOBE- 


Tuesauy  night  toma  "» ''""»«  '"'"  t**"  '''"■''"''  "'  '^°'*' 
a„..,  „e.xt  moving,  our  good  fnend  Mr.  GuUok  c.me  ou 
board  early  and  took  us  ashore  to  breakfast  at  Mrs.  BalUid  , 
peasant  missionary  hon.e,  just  outside  the  town,  under  tho 

'"■^lotlsilhandson.o  ci.y  of ....>,"00  inhahitants,  and 


mmmm. 


^.^^^^^^^^tge^'WWF^^T,^: 


492       /-tAv-v-A'  orn.oo^-s  ox  >v/  .fOX-U-y  i.axos. 
the  Becona  ..poH  in  Japan,  .on.pHin.  -ry Jauly^tl. 
Yokohan^afo..  the  luvg.  shippm,  trade  o    ^^-^    '^^  J  ^^ 
•  1      ia      Tt  is  tiuelv  Bituate.1  in  an  niegular  frame  ot  lufca 
iBlauds      It  I.  f  "•^  y  '^  ;  ^,,  ,,.,i,  ,,„„„itH  with  terraced 

whi.h:u-..  |n'.-»l..-.'  "?  J='2'-     "  lil.  a  pointed  rnlar.     But 


^ATi^' 


'      .  1 


•^  t. 


i.4a#w| 


THE  OREAT  PINE  TREE,  JAPAN. 

tbe  pine  t,ve  ..£  Japan,  eithe,-  bom  natural  habit  or  fiomlong 
tr^in  ng,  i»  a  spveadins  ti«,  giving  low,  and  dwarf  shaped, 
often  nt  ove'  twenty  feet  high,  and  oxtendn,g  U.  w,de 
trchos  out  ou  evevy  side  with  thick  and  •"—  "'-  ^ 
often  more  than  fifty  or  even  a  hundred  feet.  I'"''"!' "»;« 
i,  one  groat  pine  in  Japan  nearly  twee  as  bmad  a.  he 
;:l  Banyan  at  Calcutta,  whose  wide  extended  branches 


■  "^^s^»^m!^?SSS3h 


iron  Avith 

of  higli 

tiniaced 

ilinr  trees 

and  per 

lar.     But 


FIRST  <;/./.yrs/:s  o/'  j.iP.-ty- 


493 


r  from  long 
arf  shaped, 
ig  its  wide 
iant  foliage, 
ideed,  there 
•oad  as  the 
led  branches 


eo.cra.pa.-e  of  hu„,.ml«  of  f.^t  i"  ,lm„>..t...-,  an,l  ar.  .«,- 
oorted  by  scores  of  artirtnul  ]»oHts. 

•"'  TL'efTect  of  the.e lot.,.,  fe^  U  y-y  «-• -^^  . 

green  tints  of  tho  hill™!-"  ..■.•  ".".■-  vano,!  th.u.  - 

noticed  anywhere  else.  .     nuj^a   and 

Mr,.  Ballanl  wa»  fon,«,ly  a  n,isK,ona.T  n>  Ch  na,  and 

has  -v  most  intulligunt  and  .'amest  missionary  «1> mt.     H" 

horn;  i-teat  convenience  to  travelling  misaionane,,  ami  a 

real  centre  of  Christian  hfe  and  love. 

We  went  to  the  cemetery  dxuing  the  day,  and  found  the 

wewennut  f^Hu.  Kiflt  Or  WihiamOvHHidy, 

CTaveofourfirstmi8SionaiTtotheh..i8t,iM  ;,.„<  five 

^^Ilaid  down  his  hfe  at  Kobe,  on  his  way  to  Chuuv,  just  five 

t'Got  nf  died  of  --".-.'•—::;:: 'xCas 

,o„me,  across  t-  -i-  -,c       e  — J^  ^^^  ,^ 

'-°«.'-"e:r:nX:*.^b;r:ni™wn  nana,  l».l 
bloommg  «'«  ■*;/'"'^;'''"^  vvrehope  some  of  onr  friends 
rrn^rnr.r-nlJotKer  .nely  ...  o. 

^';r.:t'":.n>.o«se  near  .y  ^  purcW  a  «^ 


494         A'^AT/TTA'   OUTLOOK'S  OX  Af/SS/OX.IA-)'  LANDS. 

vlantH,  una  hu.l  the.n  plant.-l  over  hi«  lu-ad  u.id  foet.  They 
;,re  pretty  evergreens,  and  they  will  continue  to  speak  of 
the  love  that  is  keeping  his  memory  green  by  following  up 
Lis  laborn  for  the  worLVs  evangelization.  Couhl  he  see  he 
.ighty  misHionaries  to  China  and  J  apan  that  have  followed  m 
his  train,  he  would  n..t  think  that  his  life  had  been  wasted  or 

his  death  in  vain. 

It  was  very  ri<li(^ulous  to  notice  the  way  the  Japanese 
gardener  acted.     We  had  often  hea.d  that  the  Japanese  pec. 
pie  were  in  the  habit  of  laughing  at  funerals,  but  tins  fellow 
ust  laughed  and  laughed  until  it  was  simply  absurd  and  em- 
Wassing.     He  laughed  when  we  asked  him  the  pnce  of  the 
flowers,   and  he  laughed  when  he  planted  them    and  he 
laughed  when  we  paid  hhn  ;  and,  indeed,  he  laughed  so  much 
that  we  could  hardly  get  him  to  do  anything  else  but  laugh 
We  suppose  he  was  trying  to  make  us  feel  cheerful  and  tha 
he  was  simply  expressing  his  idea  of  sympathy  -^  comfo 
in  affliction       He  was  evidently  a  tramed  laugher,  but  he 
"uif^verdid  his  business  this  time,  and  his  conduct  seemed 

"^"'^Ourtrst  missionary  meeting  in  Japan  was  with  our 
Swedish  friends,  who  can.e  out  to  Japan  about  two  years 
ago  from   the  Scandinavian  churches  of  America,  through 

the  efforts  of  Mr.  Franson. 

There  were  eighteen  of  them  assembled  at  Kobe,  holding 
a  conference  about  their  work  in  Japan,  and  they  received 
us  very  affectionately  in  their  little  upper  room,  and  told  us 
the  story  of  their  work  since  coming  to  Japan,  while  we,  m 


8  with  our 
b  two  years 
ica,  through 

obe,  holding 
ley  received 
,  and  told  us 
while  we,  in 


ot.  They 
speak  of 
lowing  lip 
le  Boe  tho 
olio  wed  in 
.  wasted  or 

I  Japanese 
anese  peo- 
thiH  fellow 
id  and  em- 
)rice  of  the 
m,   and  he 
ed  so  much 
hut  laugh, 
il,  and  that 
nd  comfort 
her,  but  he 
uct  seemed 


SiiSSSffltf^S^'?' 


11 


BRONZE   IMAGE  OF  KURODANI,  KIOTO. 


r^ 


'-■^|v. 


*mm-'- 


riRsr  (.rjMPSics  or  j  a  pas'. 


495 


turn,  gave  them  some  words  of  encouragement,  andtold  them 
of  their  brethren  whom  we  liad  met  along  the  way  as  told  tis 
at  home. 

Their  leader,  Mr.  Seaholm,  had  succeeded  Dr.  Ludlow  in 
the  Seaman's  Mission  at  Kobe,  for  a  while,  and  at  the  time 
applied  to  us  to  be  received  as  a  missionary  of  the  Alliance, 
but  we  hesitated  to  receive  him  simply  because  we  doubted 
the  expediency  of  continuing  that  work  under  the  Alliance. 
These  Scandinavians  are  good  and  true  men  and  women,  and 
are  fairly  started  in  a  good  work  in  Japan.  They  have  had 
some  heavy  trials.  Their  allowance  for  support  and  work  is 
not  sufficient,  and  they  are  re  Uy  crami)ed  for  means.  Japan 
is  a  very  different  country  from  China,  and  v/hile  two  hun- 
dred dollars  in  gold  is  ample  for  the  support  of  a  Scandinavian 
missionary  in  Northern  China,  it  is  not  more  than  half  enough 
in  any  part  of  Japan  and  will  not  go  half  as  far. 

They  have  also  had  some  severe  sickness,  and  one  of 
their  ladies  died  of  smallpox  in  Tokio,  under  distressing  cir- 
cumstances, having  nobly  offered  to  nurse  another  mission- 
ary who  had  the  disease,  and  paying  her  own  life  as  the 
costly  sacrifice. 

We  wish  their  Scandinavian  friends  would  do  a  little 
more  for  these  brave  and  worthy  laborers.  We  believe,  as 
our  readers  know,  in  economical  missions,  but  we  do  not 
mean  by  this  a  scale  of  support  which  will  involve  hardship, 
privation  and  inabiUty  to  secure  proper  buildings,  chapels, 
etc.  In  countries  like  India  and  China,  the  rates  which  we 
have  found  sufficient  for  plain  and  comfortable  living  are 


•»i!J4|!w;»'W!t«»  W|IMaM^llUI|M,>tlU.  -: 


miii^ 


liM 


496         LARCKR  OUTLOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

equivalent  to  more  than  twice  as  much  in  Japan.  We  are 
sure  that  there  is  much  room,  even  in  Japan,  for  an  example 
of  missionary  economy  and  simplicity  of  living,  but  it  must 
not  he  pushed  to  an  extreme  which  will  cramp  and  cripple 
the  woi-kers  and  drive  them  into  secular  teaching  in  order  to 

eke  out  a  living. 

We  met  our  Scandinavian  fiiends  again  at  Kyoto  and 
Tokio,  and  were  glad  to  learn  that  already  their  work  had 
begun  to  bear  fruit.  They  are  distributed  in  about  ten  cen- 
tres, and,  during  the  past  year,  they  have  had  over  twenty 
conversions  in  their  various  stations. 

It  is  not  necessary  in  Japan  to  wait  until  one  has  ac- 
quired the  language  before  beginning  work,  but  through  a 
good  interpreter  a  missionary  may  do  much  useful  work 
from  the  very  beginning.      During  our  short  visit  to  Japan 
we  addressed  more  than  a  dozen  native  audiences,  and,  al- 
though it  was,  of  course,  far  less  satisfactory  than  the  direct 
contact  of  the  vernacular,  yet  it  became  much  more  «asf 
and  effective  than  we  had  found  it  in  India  or  China.    There 
are  some  missionaries  that  have  never  acquired  the  language, 
but  prefer  to  use  an  interpreter  ;  but  this  is  much  less  com- 
mon than  we  had  heard,  and  we  are  prepared  to  deny  the 
statement  which  we  have  read  in  a  high  authority  recentty 
published  on  Japan  misMons,  to  the  effect  that  there  are  ojdf 
about  a  dozen  missicmaries  in  the  countiy  that  speak  Japan- 
ese feiently,  and  use  it  ordinarily  in  their  work.    Und<ml»»- 
edly  it  i»  tiie  most  difficult  of  the  oriental  languages  to  »c- 
(jerire  perfectly,  and  there  are  con*paratifvely  few  who  ea& 


Ff/fST  (./.IMPSKS  OF  JAP.I.y. 


497 


hWDS. 

u.    "We  are 

an  example 

but  it  must 

and  <;iipple 

in  order  to 

1  Kyoto  and 
ir  work  had 
out  ten  cen- 
over  twefity 

one  has  ac- 
it  through  a 
useful  work 
sit  to  Japan 
nces,  and,  al- 
an  the  direct 
h  more  easf 
hina.    There 
;he  language, 
ich  less  eom- 
t  to  deny  the 
[)rity  recentty 
;here  are  onJy 
speak  Japftn- 
k.    UndooM- 
guages  to  ac- 
few  who 


speak  it  like  an  educated  native.  But  the  great  nuijority  of 
the  missionaries  learn  it  and  use  it  effectively,  and  no  one 
who  expects  to  do  permanent  work  sliould  think  of  settling 
down  to  the  roundabout  and  indirect  conununication  to  whitb 
one  is  limited  through  an  interpreter,  or  "interrui)toi."  as 
Joseph  Cook  so  happily  called  him. 

In  the  afternoon  we  addressed  a  meeting  of  the  mission- 
aries in  the  Southern  Methodist  chapel,  and  afterwards  had 
some  interesting  and  valuable  conversation  with  several  of 
them,  and  learned  nmch  of  the  present  condition  of  mission 
work  in  this  section  of  Japan.     The  American  Board  and  the 
Southern  Methodists  have  the  principal  work  in  Kobe.     The 
native  churches  in  this  section  of  Japan,  especially  in  connec- 
tion with  the  American  Board,  have  become  quite  strong  and 
independent,  and  are  beginning  to  detach  themselves  from 
the  leading  strings  of  the  mother  church  and  prepare  to  stand 
alone.      Indeed,  they  have  given  some  very  broad  hints  al- 
ready that  they  think  the  time  has  come  when  the  Ameri- 
can churches  sliould  give  them  the  money  and  let  them  do 
and  direct  the  work .     To  a  great  extent  this  has  already  been 
done,  and  more  than  one  American  missionary  told  us  that 
he  was  really  preparing  for  the  not  far-distant  time  when 
they  would  all  be  expected  to  take  their  leave  and  resign  the 
work  to  the  native  churches  exclusively. 

We  visited  the  large  educational  work  of  the  American 
Board,  and  found  that  many  of  theii-  workers  in  Japan  were 
engaged  in  this  class  of  work.  Their  schools  in  Kobe  are 
wholly  for  giris  and  seem  to  be  very  efficient  and  well  sus- 


jjWM*tJ»-Ai 


498      T.ANcr.K  orri.ooKs  ox  MfssrosAh')  lands. 

taiurd.  TIh'v  told  us  tliat  the  Japanese  national  schools  only 
gave  girls  a  ])i-imaiy  education,  and  that  higher  female  edu- 
cation had  to  he  sui>i)lied  hy  foreign  niissior.  schools.  They 
said  the  giils,  were  very  hright.  and  really  had  to  he  held  hack 
from  study.  In  comiection  M'ith  this  school  a  handsome  and 
elahorate  science  hall  was  going  up.  which  was  to  be  fur- 
nished with  superior  laboratories  and  museum.  All  this  was 
very  lovely,  and  the  missionaries  who  kindly  showed  us 
through  the  buildings  were  most  gifted  and  sincere  Christian 
workers,  and  enthusiastic  in  their  work  ;  but  we  could  not 
help  feeling  that  the  connection  with  the  evangehzation  of 
the  world,  and  with  C'hrist':^  last  conmiission,  was  somewhat 
indirect  and  remote,  and  that  it  did  not  very  materially  differ 
from  high  school  work  at  home.  We,  at  least,  should  not 
feel  at  lilierty  to  invest  missionary  funds  in  such  beautiful 
mstitutions  as  this,  while  the  great  masses  and  most  of  the 
lower  classes  of  Japanese  are  yet  unsaved. 

We  have  too  much  love  for  even  the  most  indirect  effort 
to  evangelize  the  world,  and  too  tender  a  regard  for  the  be- 
loved missionaries  we  met  abroad  to  be  critical  or  severe,  but 
we  were  pained  to  see  so  very  nmch  educational  w  ork  in 
Japan  engrossing  the  strength  and  time  of  foreigners  whom 
the  Loid  could  so  well  employ  in  direct  missionary  work. 

We  heard  of  our  dear  friends.  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Ludlow,  who 
had  spent  two  or  three  years  in  Kobe,  in  connection  with  the 
Alliance,  and,  of  course,  we  found  that  they  had  left  a  deep 
imi)ression  by  their  Christian  character  and  life  on  the  com- 
munity.    But  we  found  no  permanent  lesults  from  their  for- 


tNDS. 

schools  only 
female  edu- 
lools.  They 
be  hold  back 
mdsonie  and 
IS  to  be  fur- 
All  this  was 
'  showed  us 
jre  Christian 
;e  could  not 
gelization  of 
IS  somewhat 
ierially  differ 
;,  should  not 
ch  beautiful 
most  of  the 

idirect  effort 
■d  for  the  be- 
r  severe,  but 
nal  AN  ork  in 
^neis  whom 
try  work. 
Ludlow,  who 
tion  with  the 
id  left  a  deep 
>  on  the  com- 
oni  their  for- 


j-VA'ST  ^/./.^//'^/•'.v  <v'y. //'./A'. 


499 


eigu  missionary  work.  Their  time  had  been  wholly  given  to 
work  among  foreign  sailers,  in  which  they  were  nuich 
blessed,  but  they  bad  not  even  learned  the  .Japanese  language 
<.r  established  any  permanent  work  among  th«-  natives.  And 
even  the  s.«anum's  work  which  ihey  carried  on  so  rarnestly 
has  now  passed  into  the  bands  of  the  American  Episcopalians, 
liibappily  nuuh  of  our  work  in  Japan  has  been  allowed  to 
inn  in  channels  aside  from  direct  evangelism,  and  we  are 
only  now  getting  down  to  our  proper  work  for  the  preaching 
of  the  Gospel  to  the  heathen  in  the  intericjr.  W(;  trust  our 
l)eople  will  never  again  let  anything  divert  them  from  this 
great  trust.  All  else  must  be  transitory  and  unsatisfactory. 
This  only  is  our  calling  and  mission  as  an  Alliance,  and  in 
this  only  can  we  have  Gcxl's  full  and  pei-fect  blessing.  Dr. 
Eudlow  worked  hard  and  faithfully  in  bis  special  line,  and 
sufl'ered  very  seriously  in  bis  health  through  the  elTects  of 
the  climate  and  his  arduous  labois,  and  we  are  glad  to  learn, 
since  his  r«'tnrn  to  America,  is  steadily  recovering. 

On  the  following  day  we  had  the  peculiai-  pleasure  of 
visiting  an  interior  town  and  seeing  a  type  of  Japanese  work 
which  filled  us  with  peculiar  encouragement.  It  was  a  visit 
to  the  Orphanage  of  Mr.  Ishii  at  Okyama.  This  city  is  situ- 
ated on  the  Inland  Sea,  about  two  hundred  miles  west  of 
Kobe,  and  is  the  centre,  also,  of  an  excellent  and  successful 
mission  of  the  American  Board,  under  the  charge  of  Rev.  Mr. 
Pettee,  a  warm  friend  of  Mr.  Ishii,  and  the  author  of  a  brief 
biography  of  him.  Mr.  Isbii  is  a  very  remarkable  man,  and 
the  type  of  a  new  class  (.f  workers  whom  we  trust  God  is 


LARCKR  Orri.OOKS  ON  MISSIOXARY  LANDS. 

about  t(,  raise  up  in  this  extraordinary  land,  as  a  spiritual 
balance  wheel,  amid  the  extreme  intellectual  a.-tivity  ot  tlm 

new  age.  ,    .  .       ^i 

He  is  still  a  youuK  man,  only  about  thirty,  but  has  the 
quiet  gravity  and  poise  of  a  nuich  .>lder  man.  He  has  learned 
to  wait  on  the  Lord,  and  suffer  in  silence,  and  he  knows  the 
great  secret  of  listening  to  His  voice  and  trusting  His  word. 
He  has  been  called  the  (4eorge  MuUer  of  Japan,  and  his  work 
has  beer  inspired  to  a  great  degree  by  the  example  and  testi- 
mony of  that  venerable  patriarch  of  faith.     A  few  years  ago 
Mr    MuUer  visited  Japan,  and  the  story  of  his  work  had  a 
powerful  influence  in  the  heart  of  Mr.  Ishii,  who,  at  the  time, 
was  about  to  study  medicine  and  become  a  physician.     He 
was  led  to  adopt  a  helpless  child,  and  so  to  begin  his  great 
life-work.     He  has  no  less  than  two  hundred  and  seventy  five 
children  under  his  care,  fifty  of  whom  are  at  another  town  - 
Nagoya-  and  so  far  they  all  have  been  cared  for  by  the  Lord 
without  any  direct  human  dependence. 

He  has  various  industrial  departments  in  connection  with 
the  school,  and  is  multiplying  them  as  fast  as  the  means  will 
allow      He  has  a  barber  shop  run  by  the  l>oys,  which  makes 
a  little  money  daily  for  the  Orphanage.     He  has  a  printing 
establishment  which  turns  out  good  work,  of  which  we  have 
some  specimens.     He  has  others  learning  to  gin  and  spm  and 
weave  cotton,  and  if  he  had  a  few  hundred  dollars  more  he 
could  purcbase  a  lot  of  spinning  wheels  and  put  a  number 
more  to  work  profitably.  Everything  is  most  simple  and  eco- 
nomical, and  all  the  affairs  of  the  Orphanage  are  open  as  the 


,V-).V.VAvVtfi^l|l>S-^W^fe*taiJl 


a  spiritual 
ivity  of  tlic 

but  has  tlu^ 
has  learned 
i  knows  the 
g  His  word. 
11(1  his  work 
le  and  testi- 
w  years  ag(  > 
work  had  a 
at  the  time, 
^sician.     He 
;in  his  great 
seventy  five 
»ther  town  — 
by  the  Lord 

nection  with 
e  means  will 
k\'hich  makes 
IS  a  printing 
liich  we  have 
and  spin  and 
liars  more  he 
ut  a  number 
n])le  and  eco- 
e  open  as  the 


/■VA'ST  (.LfMl'SF.S  OF  JAPAN. 


501 


day.     With  great  simplicity  lit^  told  the  little  ones,  the  day 
we  were  there,  that  they  had  begun  the  day  with  two  yen, 
and  the  expenses  had  been  nineteen  yen,  and  just  eighteen 
yen  had  come  in,  so  they  had  just  one  yen  to  begin  another 
day,  and  so  they  all  were  taught  to  look  to  the  Lord  together 
for  their  daily  bread.     Ho  came  over  to  see  us  the  following 
week  at  Nagoya,  and  we  had  a  long  interview  and  became 
very  deeply  attached  to  the  simple-hearted  child-like  man  of 
God.     He  accM.pted  most  fully  all  the  truths  of  the  Fourfold 
Gospel,  and  told  us  that  we  should  some  day  hear  more  fully 
from  him,  if  God  sj>ared  us  both,  when  he  should  have  tried 
and  proved  more  fully  these  precious  truths.     He  told  us, 
with  great  simplicity,  that  he  had  been  hindered  for  a  day  in 
coming  to  visit  us  at  Nagoya,  by  the  want  of  means,  but  the 
next  day  a  man  called  and  brought  him  eight  yen,  saying 
that  he  waked  in  the  night  dreaming  that  Mr.  Ishii  needed 
eight  yen  and  was  in  distress,  and  in  the  morning  he  obtained 
exactly  this  sum  and  brought  it  to  him,  and  it  proved  to  be 
the  very  sum  he  needed.     This  good  man  took  a  great  hold 
of  our  heart,  and  we  believe  God  is  going  to  use  him  more 
than  any  other  agency  in  Japan  to  teach  His  people  true  piety, 
and  to  begin  through  the  Spirit  of  the  Lord,  and  through  the 
native  people  themselves,  a  spiritual  and  missionary  move- 
ment which  will  reach  all  Japan  with  the  true  Gospel  in  its 
simple  apostolic  power.     His  young  wife  is  in  full  sympathy 
with  him,  and  his  helpers,  numbering  twenty,  aie  all  volun- 
teers, giving  their  time  without  compensation  and  in  simple 
dependence  upon  God  for  all  their  needs.     They  all  seem  to 


•UPBBSW^ 


wmmmmisaai 


j)Oa 


LARGER  OlfTLOOk-S  OX  MrsS/OXARY  LANDS. 


be  men  and  women  of  like  mind  with  himself.  Mr.  Ishii  has 
received  into  his  branch  Orphanage  at  Nagoya  the  little 
orphans  wliom  Miss  Kinney  had  gathered  as  the  nu(;leus  of 
an  Orphanage  work  in  connection  with  the  Alliance,  and 
we  had  the  pleasure  of  visiting  them  a  few  days  later  at  the 
Home.  Miss  Howard  very  wisely  handed  them  over  to  Mr. 
Ishii,  as  our  Alliance  is  not  called  to  this  kind  of  work  directly, 
and  Mr.  Ishii  is  much  hotter  able  to  care  for  it. 

We  believe  that  many  of  our  people  will  be  led  to  take  a 
personal  interest  in  the  work  of  this  beloved  brother,  and  to 
cheer  him  in  his  work  of  faith  and  labor  of  love,  which  is  an 
object  lesson  for  Japan  of  much  more  value  than  even  its 
direct  benefit  to  the  many  he'.|>ers  or  plans  under  his  care. 

Our  journey  to  Okyania,  as  also,  later,  to  other  pomts, 
was  rendered  very  pleasant,  and  saved  us  from  nnich  incon- 
venience by  the  kindness  of  our  good  friends,  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Gulick,  of  Kyoto,  who  met  us  at  Kobe  and  made  most  of 
the  arrangements  for  our  rapid  visit  to  Japan. 

These  dear  friends  have  since  undertaken  the  oversight 
of  our  missionary  work  in  Japan,  and  we  trust,  in  coming 
days,  will  become  much  better  known  to  all  our  readers  and 
friends.  Dr.  Gulick  belongs  to  an  honored  missionary  family, 
which  has  still  several  members  in  the  mission  field.  Much 
of  his  life  was  spent  in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  For  many 
years  he  has  resided  in  Japan,  and  has  been  chiefly  engage.l 
as  a  professor  in  the  government  schools.  He  has  just  re- 
signed his  position  in  the  principal  government  college  at 
Kyoto,  and  will  now  give  his  life  exclusively  to  missionary 


[•.  Ishii  has 
,  tho  littlo 
nucleus  of 
iau(e,  and 
later  at  the 
Dver  to  Mr. 
rk  directly, 

'd  to  take  a 
her,  and  to 
which  is  an 
an  oven  its 
his  care, 
ther  points, 
nuch  incon- 
»r.  and  Mrs. 
ide  most  of 


F/J^sr  cLr.\fi's/:s  orj.ir.i.y. 


503 


work.  He  is  widely  known  in  Japan,  and  is  univ«.isally  re- 
spected and  heloved  as  a  humhle  and  devot.Ml  Christian 
worker,  and  a  leader  in  every  earnest  spiritual  nu.venient. 
We  trust  his  experience  and  high  Christian  (jualities  will 
make  him  a  groat  blessing  to  the  work,  and  that  his  dear 
wife  may  1)0  richly  hlessed  and  strengthene.l  f<.r  her  fellow- 
ship of  service. 


le  oversight 
i,  in  coming 
readers  and 
nary  family, 
field.     Much 
For  many 
efly  engaged 
has  jubt  re- 
lit college  at 
1  missionary 


XXVII. 

ACROSS  JAPAN  BY  RAIL. 

TIIKRK  ate  already  several  thousuud  iniU-H  of  railway  in 
Japan,  opening  tip  almost  every  part  of  the  country 
by  oasy  conununication.  The  longest  and  most  un^ 
portant  of  these  lines  runs  from  Kobe  to  Yokohama  and 
Tokio.  a  distance  of  three  hundn-d  and  sixty  miles. 

First,  we  had  to  secu.e  passports  at  the  consul  s  office, 
l^nnitting  us  to  travel  in  the  interior  beyond  the  Treaty 
ports     -for  scientific    <.bservation  or  the    beneht    of    our 
health  ••    We  did  not  have  to  answer  any  questions  on  these 
1  or  we  might  have  been  embarrassed.     Our  passports 
had  verv  kindly  been  secured  for  us,  and  we  accepted  them 
without  denmr.     We  suppose,  had  we  been  aj-^^-^^'  T 
rid  have  said,  with  Miss  Kinney,  that  it  was  for  the  ben  ftt 
f  ,.ur  health  to  obey  the  Lord  and  go  -^-e  ^e  s..t  u. 
The  truth  is,  as  we  learned  from  the  authonties  the  leal 
!^i   and  interest  of  these  passports  is  to  prevent  foreignex. 
'  oing  into  the  interior  to  trade,  and  so  long  as  tins  is  honest- 
iv  avoided,  the  spirit  of  the  Treaty  is  not  infnnged 
'     We  w^re  sm^ised  to  find  how  much  easier  it  is  than  we 
had  supposed,  to  obtain  passports,  not  only  to  visit  but  also 
Tveside  in  the  interior,  and  that  by  a  little  tact  every  por- 
504 


.till 


:  railway  in 
;he  country 
lid  moat  ini- 
[ohama  and 


nsul'H  office, 
1  the  Treaty 
letit    of    our 
ions  on  these 
iir  passports 
cepted  them 
lestioned,  we 
or  the  benefit 
;  He  sent  us. 
ties,  the  real 
ent  foreignei-8 
this  is  honest- 
ged. 

L-  it  is  than  we 

visit  but  also 

act  every  por- 


I      EillK! 
ii 


i      If 


i^i 


■•jsi&ia" 


.icffOs.sj.^r.i.v  ity  hwii. 


505 


tion  of  tho  interior  nmy  be  viHited  and  .'vaiiKclizod  ;  h.kI,  in- 
dml,  there  in  Hcarcely  a  i)roviii(e  whrie  niiHsioiiaries  are  not 
now  to  he  fnnnd,  and  whrre   flourishing^  Htations  are  not 

growing  np. 

0»ir  Hrst  stop  was  at  Osaka,  the  second  city  in  Japan  ni 
population,  and  the  fhst  in  real  wealth  and  commercial  im- 
portance.    It  has  a  population  of  half  a  million,  and  it  hears 
every  indication  of  wealth  and  influence.     We  tried  to  count 
its  lofty  smoke  sta<;ks  as  we  entered,  hut  tlu-y  numhered  hun- 
dreds.    Its  hridges  are  said  to  exceed  l,4.M»,  and  they  are  very 
substantial  and  pretty,  leading  across  the  various  branches 
of  the  rivers  that  intersect  the  town,  almost  hke  anotluT 
Venice.    The  manufactures  of  Osaka  are  very  extensive,  and, 
its  trade  draws  constant  visit.n-s  from  every  section  of  the 
empire.     Its  commercial  nniseum  is  a  vast  and  imposmg 
structure,  containing  samples  of  its  various  wares,  and  not 
unworthy  of  Glasgow  or  Liverpool. 

We  were  kindly  entertained  by  the  Kev.  Mr.  Gulick,  of 
the  American  Board,  and  found  a  n)eeting  arranged  for  us  in 
the  largest  nativ-  .  unrh,  Rev.  T.^a  Gowa,  past.)r,  Avhere  we 
were  expect.  o  preach  to  a  native  audience  with  the  pastor 
asinterpivter.  Thisgentlemanisoneof  theleading  ministers 
of  the  native  chuich  of  Japan,  and  a  very  goo.l  sample  of  an 
educated  Christian  native.  He  has  a  strong  physique  for  a 
Japanese,  and  an  expression  of  rugged  force  and  strong  exec- 
utive ability.  His  head  is  round  and  massive ;  his  beard 
thick  and  strong  ;  his  shoulders  broad  and  powerful ;  his  eye 
keen   and  his  manner  crisp  and  full  of  decision  and  energy. 


^.SP'  J'T^'^T'^'^rt 


5o6  l.ARCr.R   OUTLOOKS  ox  .V/SS/ON.-iRV  LANnS. 

He  impressed  us  as  a  man  more  keenly  intellectual  than 
deeply  spiritual.  He  is  said  to  be  the  best  interpreter  in 
Japan.  When  Joseph  Cook  was  here  he  translated  his 
lectures  for  him,  and  Avas  able  to  reproduce  whole  para- 
graphs, five  or  ten  minutes  long,  without  omitting  -n-  muti- 
lating a  shade  of  thought. 

He  is  the  leading  spirit  of  the  Kumai  churches  which 
have  grown  u]»  out  of  the  missionary  work  of  the  American 
Board,  and  are  pressing  so  strongly  for  an  independent  native 
church.  The  first  part  of  the  meeting  was  devotional,  and 
he  led  it  by  the  aid  of  a  little  hell,  keeping  time  as  sharply 
as  Mr.  Moody  would  have  done. 

We  spoke  for  about  half  an  hour,  and  he  interpreted  for 
us  with  great  facility.  We  notiiXHl  that  nobody  in  the  audi- . 
ence  looked  at  us,  but  all  gazed  on  the  flo<n'  or  in  the  empty 
space,  and  we  would  have  thought  that  they  were  utterly 
uninterested  in  what  we  said  had  we  not  been  told  that  it  is 
not  etiquette  in  Japan  to  look  at  a  speaker,  or  show  the 
slightest  emotion  or  interest,  but  good  form  recpiin^s  one  to , 
keep  a  blank  face  devoid  of  all  feeling.  We  felt  like  explod- 
ing all  their  good  form  and  getting  them  either  t(j  laugh  or 
cry,  or  say,  "Hallelujah,"  or  something,  and  we  succeeded 
once  or  twice,  before  we  left  Japan,  in  seeing  some  imjiression 
made  on  these  set,  studied  faces  of  stone. 

Mr.  Mya  Gowa  told  us  that  there  were  fifteen  native  con- 
gregations in  Osaka,  and  that  his  own  church  was  entirely 
self-supporting,  paying  him  his  salaiy,  and,  indeed,  carrying 
on  some  missionary  work  besides. 


NDS. 

ctvial  than 
erpreter  in 
islnted  his 
Iiolo  para- 
g  '»!•  muti- 

?\\es  which 
3  Aint^rican 
[lent  native 
•tional,  and 
as  sharply 

'vpreted  for 
li  the  audi- . 
the  empty 
^ere  utterly 
i  that  it  is 
ir  show  the 
lires  one  to, 
like  explod- 
t<j  laugh  or 

>  succeeded 

>  impression 

native  con- 
ras  entii'ely 
?d,  carrying 


.ICROSSJAP.I.y  nv  RAIL. 


507 


We  also  had  the  privilege  ot  meeting  a  numher  of  the 
EugUsh  and  American  missionarifs  at  Osaka  and  speaking  a 
few  spiritual  words  about  the  Holy  Ghost,  tlie  one  theme  on 
which  we  have  almost  always  spoken  abroad.     There  is  a 
very  pleasant  Foreign  Quarter  in  Osaka,  wliere  the  mission- 
aries reside,  and  several  of  the  great  societies  are  well  repre 
sented,  especially  in  the  American  Board,  the  Northern  and 
Cumberland  Presbyterians  and  the  Baptists,  and  the  English 
Church  Missionary  Society.     We  were  especially  delighted  to 
meet  some  of  the  workers  of  this  latter  society  who  were  con- 
nected with  Mr.  Buxton's  work,  and  to  receive  a  very  cordial 
letter  of  welcome  from  Mr.    Buxton  himself.      This  dear 
brother  has  lately  come  to  Japan  as  the  representative  of  a 
missionary  spirit  which  will  meet,  we  know,    with  a  very 
cordial  response  in  all  our  people's  hearts.     He  is  a  descend- 
ant of  an  old  and  honored  English  family,  Sir  Thomas  Fowell 
Buxton  ;  is  possessed  of  ample  means  to  sustain  the  Mission 
he  represents,  and  yet  is  working  loyally  under  the  noblest 
of  English  societies,  the  Church  Missionary  Society.     He  is 
a  thoroughly  consecrated  Christian,  believing  with  all  his 
heart  in  the  Lord  as  a  Healer  and  Sanctifier,  and  standing  out 
in  unoompromising  separation  from  all  the  inconsistencies 
and  follies  of  the  religious  world.     So  true  is  his  testimony 
that  even  missionaries  sometimes  think  him  and  his  party  of 
workers  extreme.     They  have  no  time  for  receptions,  picnics, 
Shakespearean  readings  and  idle  sight-seeing,  and  no  heart  for 
aught  save  the  one  thing  the  L(n-d  has  sent  them  to  do. 
Their  lives  are  simple,  econonncal  and  elevated.     They  have 


!    J 


5o8        I.ARC.ER  OITI.OOKS  OX  M/SSVOXARr  LANDS. 

gone  straight  to  the  unoccupied  fields  of  the  interior,  and  al- 
ready God  has  begun  to  greatly  bless  their  work.  Our  f  nends 
will  be  glad  to  know  that  it  is  among  these  good  missionaries, 
and  on  the  borders  of  the  great  unoccupied  field  they  have 
entered,  that  we  have  decided  to  organize  onr  missionary 
work  in  the  interior  of  Japan. 

Here  we  again  received  the  same  assurances  which  we 
had  already  heard  at  Kobe,  of  the  strong  independent  move- 
ment 0,1  the  part  of  the  native  churches,  and  their  desire  to 
throw  off  the  foreign  control  and  take  the  entire  direcion  of 
all  the  missionary  work  in  Japan.  We  found  nmch  less  of 
this  in  some  of  the  other  societies,  and  we  believe  it  has  been, 
for  various  causes,  most  decided  in  the  churches  of  the  Amer- 

ican  Board.  ,,     . 

The  Cumberland  Presbyterian  Church  has  an  exceUent 
work  in  Osaka,  and  we  had  some  V-cious  fellowship  w.th  its 
good  nussionaries,remindingusof  the  olddaysatlortWorth^ 

One  of  their  lady  evangehsts,  now  in  America  has  been 
greatly  blessed  iu  establishing  a  large  circle  of  stations  and 
thurcL  in  the  vicinity  of  Osaka  ;  and,  we  believ-e,  she  was 
able  to  .10  all  this  excellent  and  substantial  work  through  an 
interpreter  and  without  speaking  a  word  of  Japanese 

From  Osaka  we  next  went  to  Kyoto,  the  ancient  capital 
of  Japan.  It  is  not  as  large  as  Osaka,  numbering  about  a 
quarter  of  a  million  inhabitants.  But  it  is  a  most  beaiitiful 
city  full  of  quaint  old  temples,  and  surrounded  with  a  frame 
of  picturesque  hills  on  every  side.  This  was  for  centuries  the 
spiritual  capital,  where  the  Mikado  resided  in  sacred  isola- 


xcsaa 


■■ 


r 


ep5. 

ior,  and  al- 
;3ur  friends 
lissionaries, 
[  they  have 
missionary 

!S  which  we 
ident  move- 
dr  desire  to 
direction  of 
luch  less  of 
it  has  been, 
)f  the  Amer- 

au  excellent 
ship  with  its 
Fort  Worth, 
-a,  has  been 
stations  and 
ieve,  she  was 
c  through  an 
anese. 

icient  capital 
ning  about  a 
lost  beautiful 
with  a  frame 
•  centuries  the 
I  sacred  isola- 


o 

(- 
o 

>- 

o 
o 
o 


3 

o 

I 
I- 

Ul 
Ul 

c 

I 

h- 


ACROSSJ.IPAX  />'}'  RAIL. 


509 


tion  as  tlie  religious  head  of  tJie  nation,  while,  the  Daimios  or 
nobles  ruled  at  Tokioand  swayed  the  tenii)oral  power  hy  mili- 
tary force. 

Forty  years  ago  all  this  was  changed,  and  Japan  emerged 
out  of  Feudalism  aud  Superstition  to  become,  in  a  single  gen- 
eration, the 
most  progres- 
sive of  Asiatic 
and,  almost, 
of  modern  na- 
tions. Since 
then  the  cap- 
ital has  been 
transferred  to 
Tokio,  and 
Kyoto  is  but  a 
monument  of 
Old  Japan. 
But  for  one 
who  has  time 
to  study  it,  it 
is  an  interest- 
ing relic.  We 
had  neither 
heart  nor  leis- 
ure to  spend 
more  than  a 
few  hours  in  the  bell  tower,  kyoto 


jIO        L.'IRnF.N  OVnOOKS  OA'  MtSarONARV  LANDS 

looking  .t  tl,e  must  int«.«tin«  ,  I'  its  anoieut  te,n,.l.«  and 
\22  S„n,..  „£  tl,e,»  are  ver,  .ostly.  tl.e.r  altavs  and 
brines  iH-ing  cove^d  with  gold  and  precions  »tones  and 
h  "  Uns  nni„no  and  wholly  Japanese.  The  s.tes  of  most 
then,  a,.e  s„„e,„.  and  tl.oi,-  grounds  spacons  and  finely 
nlauted  as  all  gionnds  are  in  Japan.  The  great  Bdl  o 
Ittm^le  is  'one  of   the  largest  in  the   world  and   Us 

tone  is  singu- 
larly   SWtM't 
and  far  reach- 
ing, sounding 
over  the  hill» 
for      many 
miles.    Kyoto 
is   a    city   of 
magnificent 
distances,  and 
the    suburhs 
that  reach  on  t 
on  every  side, 
along     the 

slopes  of  the 

exquisite  hills 

to  a  distance 

of  many  miles 

a  r  e    covered 

with  striking 

buildings. 


1 EMPUE  OF  HACHIMAN,  KYOTO. 


Bn 


vDS 

uipleB  and 
altars  and 
tones,  and 
tes  of  most 
and  finely 
^at  Bell  of 
Id   and    its 


ACROSS  J.  IP.  I. y  /.)'  /,•///,. 


511 


TO. 


^^_£.  -  :^S£^ 


Tlitj  (Tovciiuiiciit  Cullej;(',  wlicir  oiii'  host  lias  Ih'cii  teach- 
ing, is  a  fine  huilding  with  several  hnndted  students.  To 
Americans  the  most  interesting  institution  in  Kyoto  is  the 
Doshisha  nr  Christian  College,  founded  by  Dr.  Neeissima, 
who  was,  perhaps,  tlie  most  gifted  and  distinguished  native 
Christian  that  has  arisen  from  the  .Japanese  church.  The 
halo  that  his  life  has  left  beliind  it,  even  y(^t  in  Tapan,  gives 
evidence  of  the  power  of  this  gcjod  man's  life.  He  was  a 
man  of  singleness  of  imrpose,  nmch  faith  and  a  great  force 
of  character.  His  great  life-work  was  to  found  the  Doshisha, 
and  leave  it  as  a  heritage  to  his  beloved  Japan.  It  is  a  strong 
and  well-enuipi)ed  colleg(N  embracing  a  theological  school, 
and  designed  to  give  a  higher  education  under  Christian  in- 
fluence to  the  youth  of  Japan,  and  especially  to  train  those  of 
them  for  the  Christian  ministry  who  are  willing  to  d(!Vote 
thetr  lives  to  that  high  calling.  Tliere  are  several  hundred 
students  in  attendance,  and  we  had  the  privilege  of  being 
asked  to  address  them  twice.  We  found  them  veiy  bright 
and  responsive,  and  took  the  opportunity  to  ))ress  home  upon 
their  hearts  the  need  of  spiritual  rather  than  ])urely  intellec- 
tual culture  as  the  true  secret  of  power  and  the  great  need  of 
Japan.  Everywhere  we  go  in  this  land  we  feel  it  inoro  and 
more — the  smartness  of  the  people  is  their  bane  ;  and  their 
great  need — the  only  thing  that  will  stead)'  them  fully  and 
give  them  jM'rmanence  is  spiritual  depth  and  power.  We  tried, 
as  best  we  could,  through  an  interpreter,  to  impress  upon 
them  Paul's  great  argument,  in  I.  Cor.  ii.,  for  the  spiritual 
rather  than  the  psycliical  element  in  heavenly  wisdom,  illu- 
mination and  power.     And  wliile  to  many  it  was  no  doubt 


r..,m;r^  ofTLOOJ^s  ox  M/ss/ox.iuy 


ixns. 


I 


L.p..h.™iW..,  yet  we  ecu,,,  see  an,,  ...  that  . ,  .""«=r 

f..i.n.ls  may  see  hi.n  .luring  the  suniiue..     He  is  .. 
lVa::™rla;;i..eaU.-M.>.t  .„  t,™ta„  evHn.e,„.a,. 

— t;r:::^e.o„«,e^«,at.^.--K>™w 

•...  „ll  (1,P  forei.'ii  missionaries-about  a  h<ore,  ami 
^onewithal    the    oe„,^  ,„,,,,  .leligMf,.: 

the  otluTS  with  nativi.,  amUeiiu  s.  ,.„,eiv«l  with 

fenowship  with  the  ""— rr.^;  „ ^t  the  need  of 
cordial  kind„.«,  ana  .„u.  « '°"«  ";7;",^,„„^  ..^^^ev  than  s„ 
theSu^rnatuvai  ^-;;;  ,^';«  1  _  i«eived  with  a 
much  of  our  own  cullu.^  am  ^^^^, 

heartiness  that  greatly  *««f  "  ..  ^^^^neni  or  missionary 
Ho«rapher  of  ^>— ^''j';'    ^  ^l  J,  ,he  Hoiy  Ghost 

uablo  insight  into  the  condition  of   I  1'"*™;  \,„ 

,.„„.  his  pi.cious  «--j'j-7 "     tow'l  tdependence 
have  met,  he  also  sees  the  stionfc  ^^^^  ^_^_j^_. 

iuthe  native  Church,  -''j    ■^'';  ':'^,.,  ^„.„™,„,  intel- 

.tands  the  ''-f  ^^I'tf "^^^^.e  have  already  referred 

r'"tr  ::  irrtu  If   hope   for   ««    future,    and 
to;      but    he    is    a  ^^.^^^   ^^^.^^g^ 

yet  been  scarcely  touched  in  this  country. 


\'PS. 

^,>o(\  tuany 

it  America, 
;v.  He  is  a 
t  vangelit-al, 

nt  at  Kyoto 
\  score,  and 
}i  (loliglitfii 
i^eived   with 
the  need  of 
,her  tlian  ho 
eived  with  a 
le  friend  and 
.!■  missionary 
>  Holy  Ghost 
IS  much  val- 
ork  in  Japan 
the  others  we 
independence 
ixn,  he  under- 
darism,  intel- 
i-eady  referred 
future,    and 
true  foreign 
r,  and  in  hum- 
native  Church, 
;,  who  have  as- 


■Mpi 


ACROSS  J.  I  P.I  r<!  ji  y  rail. 


513 


We  luul  tlu'   plt'uisuio  ttf   forming  the  aniuainlanco  of 
anol  lun- luitivo  puHtor,  Urv.  Mi.  Knwa,  ami  of  preaching  to  his 
lH'0|)h'.     He  belongs  to  the  same  body  as  Mr.  Mya  Oovva  of 
Osaka,   and  has  a  laige  and  interesting  congregation.     We 
cannot  stop  to  speak  of  all  tht>  itleasant  and  profitable  ac- 
(luaintances  or  asso(  iations  of  these  three  days  in  old  Kyoto. 
We  jvere  sorry  to  learn  afterwards  that  we  had  ])assed  by  the 
very  room  in  the  hospital  in  which  our  bel(>v<'d  fellow  tiav- 
eller,  Kev.  Dr.  Kidg*  vay,  of  rhi<;ago,  was  lying  dangerously 
ill  with  tyi)hoid  fever,  and  we  knew  not  until  we  were  one 
hundred  miles  from  Kyoto   that  he  was  even  there.     We 
were  glad,  however,  ere  we  left  Japan,  to  receive  a  letter  from 
his  wife  stating  that  he  was  much  better,  and  we  could  not 
thank  our  own  dear  Father  enough  for  the  faithfulness  and 
lovc!  that  had  not  permitted  us  to  lose  a  single  hour  with 
sickness  or  pain  during  all  the  long  months  of  our  dangerous 
journey.     Blessed  be  His  dear  and  gracious  name  ! 

From  Kyoto  wo  went  on  alone  to  Nagoya,  about  one  hun- 
dred and  tw(»nty  miles  farther  east  on  the  I'okaido  or  great 
road  to  Tokio.  Nagoya  is  the  fourth  city  in  the  empire,  next 
in  population  to  Kyoto,  and  a  commercial  centre  of  great  im- 
portance. It  is  the  great  Buddhist  metropolis,  and  their  hos- 
tility to  Christianity  is  very  determined.  Tt  is  also  the  cen- 
tre of  the  Earthquake  District,  and  they  tell  very  thrilling 
stories  of  the  scenes  of  three  years  ago,  when  this  whole  sec- 
tion was  devastated  and  many  lives  wei-e  lost.  The  great 
rents  in  the  ground  are  still  to  be  seen  in  the  country  round 
Nagoya,  where  the  earth  was  cleft  asunder.     It  was  just  a 


I 


\ 


5M 


J  iKG/h'  oiTf.oohs  o.\'  Ar/ss/i>\.iA'y  /  ixns. 


litth- after  HUi..is....in.ltlM', pU- l.a.l  nut  y.t  left  tl.eir  homes 

wlH.ii  in  a  mcnont.  tl.py  lu-ar.!  a  slrauK'',  cmshinK  souml, 
and  tlH>  kind  H.'(M.u'(l  KiasiK-tl  as  in  a  ^'iaiit  hand  Jind  as  a 
wildb.'ast  ^vould  shako  its  i.rcy,  till  -tho  houHes  were  Inulcd 
fiom  thHr  1  oindations,  tho  tih-s  came  turnhhiiK   fvom   the 


NAOOYA  CASTLE. 

roofs,  and  the  i)eople  lied  from  thcii-  doors  to  he  crushed  by 
the  faUing  tiles  and  timber. 

The  little  children,  now  in  Mr.  Ishii's  Orphanage,  atN^go- 
ya,  were  mostly  refugees,  left  homeless  by  that  catastrophe. 
For  nearl V  a  month  afterwards  there  were  constant  shocks,  bUt 


xns. 

Llu'ir  honu's, 
hiuK  Hoinul, 
d  and  as  a 
were  liuilcd 
g  ftom   tho 


e  crusliod  by 

age,  at  Nago- 

catastrophe. 

it  shocks,  hut 


U/^OSSJ.I/>,IX  /.')•  A'./// 


515 


after  the  fiiNt  they  were  coniixifativfly  h.iniih'ss.  Kuith- 
qiiakos  are  V  ry  common  in  Japan,  an<l  tlic  people  slt'cp  with 
thcii-  doDiH  so  ( oiivcniciitly  fastoiicd  that  lln\  could  open 
them  and  fly  out  at  a  njoment's  alarm. 

Nagoya  in  also  a  miswionaiy  centie.  Here  we  found  the 
8()uth(  in  T'reshyterians,  and  weie  UKtsI  liospitahly  enter 
taiiiod  hy  our  good  brother,  Mr.  Cummings,  one  of  their  mem- 
hers;  also  hy  tin*  Methodist  Protestants,  one  of  whoso  hright 
and  gifted  missionaries,  Miss  Do  For«;st,  is  canying  on  a 
hrave,  aggressive  \v'o>kin  the  Japanese  theaties  in  tlie  face  of 
a  strong  Buddhis:  op{)o'  }*-um.  The  Northern  Methodists  liave 
an  excellent  wo;  k,  uid  u  had  the  piivile^e  of  pn-aching  in 
their  large  chap  1  i  >  u  s  ry  good  congregation  of  natives. 
There  is  also  an  ex.  ■  Uoai  young  mission  here  from  Wyckliffe 
College,  Canada,  carried  on  by  a  consecrated  band  of  Cana- 
dian p]piscopalians,  and  having  nmch  of  the  best  spirit  of  the 
Church  Missionary  Society  peojde  we  have  met  abroad. 

Here,  also,  some  of  our  own  missionaries  have  settled  for 
the  present,  and  we  sjjent  two  days  in  frecpient  fellowship 
with  our  dear  sisters.  Miss  Baines  and  Miss  Howard,  at  their 
pleasant  Japanese  cottage  in  Nagoya.  Miss  Barnes  is  in  good 
health  and  has  made  fair  jjrogress  with  the  language.  She 
will  remain  in  Nagoya  for  the  sununer,  and  in  the  autunui 
will  join  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Gulick  in  the  interior.  Miss  Howard 
lias  devoted  herself  chiefly  to  the  orphans  who  were,  for  a 
time,  under  her  special  care,  after  the  return  of  Miss  Kinney, 
hut  have  been  transferred  to  Mr.  Ishii's  native  Orphanage. 
She  feels  led  to  return  to  America,  and  we  have  encouraged 


,;i6  LARCKR   OI'TLOOKS  OX  .V/SS/OX.Ihr  LANDS. 

\wi;  in  view  of  all  the  present  circumstances,  to  do  so.     Two 
very  bright  young  Japanese  ladies  were  also  living  and  work- 
ing with   them,    Knoyesan    and  Shigimat/u,   and    a   little 
Eurasian  girl,  named  Mar- 
ion,   whom    Miss   Howard 
has  adopted. 

We  had  nmch  earnest 
confereiice,  -    and    learned 
from   them    the    story    of 
their  trials  and    victories, 
and  endeavored  to  counsel 
and  help  them  all  we  could. 
We  felt   that  Kagoya 
was  too  much  occupied  by 
other  workers  to  need  us, 
and  our  workers  were  only 
too  glad  to  have  the  pros- 
pect   of    getting   out    and 
into  the  regions  beyond. 

A  good  deal  of  the 
work  at  ^^agoya  is  educa- 
tional. There  are  two  la- 
dies' schools,  one  under  the 
Methodist  and  the  other  the 

Presbyterian  Mission.  The  girls,  as  usual,  looked  verjr 
sweet  and  bright.  It  was  Commencement  Day  in  one  of  the 
P-hools,  and  we  ]^eard  their  exercises  and  were  struck  with 
the  grace  and  modesty  of  the  graduates.     We  were  asked  to 


TWO  NATIVE  TEACHERS. 


.'INDS. 

lo  SO.  Two 
g  and  work- 
md   a   little 


■»*  '  %K 


HERS. 


looked    very- 

in  one  of  the 

e  struck  with 

were  asked  tiO 


ACh'ossj.ir.iy  iiv  rail. 


517 


address  thcni.  and  we  saw  some  tears  in  tlieif  eyes  as  we 
talked  of  Jesus  and  His  love. 

We  had  a  pleasant  visit  at  Nagoya,  and  received  nuich 
kindness  from  all  the  other  missionaiies  as  well  as  our  own 
workers.     But  Dr.  and  Mrs.  GuUck  came  on  for  us  after  the 


LAKE  HAKONE, 

second    day,   and  taking    leave    of    our   own    and    several 
•<ither  missionaries  at  the  station,  we  hastened  on  to  I'okio. 

It  was  a  long  ride  of  fourteen  hours,  hut  much  of  it  lay 
through  a  beautiful  country.  About  foiu"  o'clock  we  passed 
the  base  of  the  famous  Fujiyama,  Japan's  beautiful  moun- 


ci8         LARGER  Or-TLOOk'S  O.V  mssrO.Wl RV  LANDS. 

tain      M  fivst  it  seenie.l  as  if  we  should  not  see  it.  for  the  sky 
wo.'thick  with  mist.     But  (lod  was  mindful  of  even  this  ht- 
tie  wish  and  prayer,  and  before  the  sun  went  down,  tlie 
tul    parted,  Ll  the  mists  which  had  obscured  tu>  beauti- 
ful mountain,  became  a  crown  of  glory  upon  its  lot  ty  brow, 
teachiuK  us  that  the  things  that  often  seem  to  hmder  us, 
shall  if  we  but  trust  and  wait,  not  only  be  cleared  from  our 
pathway,  but  will  leave  a  gUn-y  and  blessing  which  we  could 
never  have  known  if  they  had  not  come. 

Fujiyama  is  the  pride  of  Japan.  It  is,  indeed,  a  beau  i- 
ful  mountain,  nearly  13,ooo  feet  liigh,  about  as  high  as  the 
Rockies  and  ML  Blanc  ;  and,  standing  in  lonely  isolation,  with 
its  perfec-t  cone,  is  the  chief  glory  of  the  Sunrise  Kingdom, 
ard  the  beautiful  cloud-capped  signal,  seen  first  upon  her 
shores,  as  the  voyager  looks  out  from  the  long  waste  of 
waters  for  the  first  sight  of  land. 

Later  we  passed  through  the  lovely  Hakone  country,  with 
its  soft  green  hills  and  its  lake  away  up  on  the  mountain 
side  all  reminding  one  bo  much  of  the  scenery  of  England, 
which  Japan,  indeed,  so  much  resembles 

We  reached  Tokio  at  ten  o'clock  that  night,  and  had  a 
warm  welcome  from  our  host  and  hostess,  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Brand  of  the  American  Baptist  Mission,  two  brave,  true- 
hearted  missionaries,  full  of  faith  and  the  Holy  Ghost  aiul 
standing  for  Christian  whole-heartedness,  Scriptural  methods 
and  aggressive  missionary  work  in  the  midst  of  the  many 
mingled  currents  of  the  religious  life  and  work  of  Japan. 

The  following  week  we  returned  a  second  time  to  their 


1  1 


for  tho  sky 
ven  this  1  it- 
down,  the 
tho  beauti- 
lofty  brow, 
hinder  us, 
ed  from  oui" 
ch  we  could 

ed,  a  beauti- 
high  as  the 
olation,  with 
se  Kingdom, 
st  upon  her 
ng  waste   of 

country,  with 
,he  mountain 
f  of  P^.ngland, 

;ht,  and  had  a 
Mr.  and  Mrs. 
)  brave,  true- 
tly  Ghost,  and 
tural  methods 
)  of  the  many 
of  Japan. 
1  time  to  their 


> 
z 
> 


o 
> 


lif 


520       j.ARf'i'K  orri.ooKs  ox  flrrssroxARV  /..tyos. 

liospitable  liome,  to  meet  tlie  missionaries  of  Tokio  in  their 
<;hapel,  and  dnring  onr  brief  visit  to  Tokio  we  were  much 
rheered  by  their  fellowship  and  kindness.  They  belong  to  a 
class  of  missionaries  which  we  rejoice  to  find  increasing  in 
the  foreign  field,  and  through  whose  closer  fellowship  and 


TOKIO. 

united  testimony  a  deeper  spiritual  life  and  a  stronger  type 
of  faith  and  holy  character  are  yet  to  come  to  the  workers 
abroad.  We  rejoice  to  believe  that  the  movement  ^ill  be  in- 
aiigurated  to  bring  about  an  annual  conference  of  those  of 
like  mind  in  some  central  place  in  Japan  for  mutual  encour- 


VDS. 

io  in  their 
v^ere  much 
aelong  to  a 
creasing  in 
wship  and 


Tonger  type 
tlie  workers 
it  iJ^ill  he  in- 
>  of  tliose  of 
tnal  encour- 


ACROSS  J.  If.  IX  /{)'  A\l/f.. 


521 


agemeiit  and  th.t;  promotion  of  faith,  hohnessand  true  spiiitual 
])Ower  on  the  ))art  of  both  native  anu  foreign  Chi-istian  work- 
ers. 

During  tJie  two  or  three  days  spent  in  Tokio,  we  had  the 
opportunity  of  seeing  a  httle  of  the  great  city  and  renewing 
many  pleasant  old  ac(piaiutances  as  well  as  of  forming  some 
new  ones. 

Miss  Finch  had  spent  several  months  in  Tokio,  and  had 
already  made  excellent  progress  in  the  language,  and  enjoyed 
some  opportunities  of  missionary  service  through  an  inter- 
l)reter.  Vv  e  saw  nuich  of  her  both  here  and  afterwards  in 
Yokoliama,  and  were  able  to  arrange  with  her  the  plan  of  her 
future  work.  She  has  had  some  severe  trials,  but  the  way 
is  now  clear  and  plain,  and  We  are  sure  her  work  will  be 
blessed,  and  Japan  prove  to  her  the  field  of  the  Master's 
choice. 

We  called  on  our  old  friend,  Mr.  John  Ballagh,  of  the 
Meiji  Gaukin,  or  Presbyterian  Collage,  and  we  found  that 
the  term  had  just  closed  and  the  students  scattered  to  their 
home.s.  lie  is  ba])py  in  bis  work,  and  surrounded  by  a  new 
and  bright  family  circle  in  his  lovely  home.  He  received  us 
with  nmch  kindness,  and  came  down  afterwaids  twice  to  Yo- 
kohama to  show  his  brotherly  interest  in  us,  and  at  last  to 
see  us  off.  His  old  American  friends  Avill  be  glad  to  see  him 
back  in  the  United  States  next  year.  The  college  at  Tokio  is 
very  nuich  like  the  Doshisha  at  Kyoto— an  educational  estab- 
lishment for  the  higher  training  of  the  Christian  yimng  men 
of  Japan,  and  especially  for  the  theological  training  of  candi- 
dates for  the  ministry. 


mmMm 


522 


LARGER  orri.ooKS  OX  M/ss/ox.i/^')  /..ly/is: 


There  arc  not  Meaily  so  many  studeuts  as  at  Kyoto- 
about  two  Imndied  m  all,  we  believe,  and  a  l.tir  i  ropox'tii.n 
of  these  are  theological  students.-  Tlie  colletAL'  buildings  are 
very  handsome  and  the  site  is  superl). 

We  found  the  same  tendenry  in  Tokio  that  m-  have  al- 
ready referred  to,  looking  towards  (lieindepeudent c  of  the  na- 
tive churches  ;  and  it  setriis  prokibic  that  the  foreigti  workers 
in  the  college  may  be  reduced.  Indeed,  som-  of  them  have 
already  gone  t.  America  and  may  not  return  to  .TiipuM. 

W.-   had  {.vieat  pleasure  in  meetinj.^  Miss  Anaa  Perry, 
forme'  v  r-.r  X.'vv  York,  and  hearing  some  of   the  facts  re- 
spectJnj.>;  h>i  j-tost  ijitoresting  and  successful  work.     She  has 
opened  hi'   own  home  for  her  meetings,  and  she  told  us  how 
eagerly  the  peop\<?  of  all  classes  thronged  the   i-ailors,  and 
hciw  numyof  them  were  truly  led  toC'hrlH!.  -She  has  now 
nearly  a  <lozen  different  centres  of  work,  led  l.y  various  bands 
of  native   workers,  and  over  six  hundred  children    attend- 
ing   her    schools.     There    have    been   some    beautiful    in- 
stances of  the  grace  and  power  of  God.     She  told  us  how  a 
policeman  lately  met  a  noted  criminal  in  the  rooms,  and  as 
they  recognized   each  other,   the  former  remarked  to  the 
other:     "This  is  the  right  place  for  you  to  be."     Not  long 
ago,  a  fisherman  came  in  to  some  ot  the  meetings,  and  hear- 
ing the  secret  of  trusting  God,  he  began  to  pray  foi-  his  busi- 
ness, and  th(^  Lord  answered  his  prayers  in  such  an  extraor- 
dinary manner,  by  tilling  his  net  with  fishes,  that  he  actually 
left  his  boat  and  work  and  came  into  Tokio  t<.  rendej'  thanks 
to  God  for  His  goodness. 


.IC/fO.SS  /.ir.l.V  /;)■  RAIL. 


523 


As  if  to  (louhlf  tilt'  iih'iisnic  of  our  visit,  w«>  U'urned  by 
tlie  mail  timt  icaduMl  Tokio  wliilc  we  were  tlii'ir.  that  ht  r 
dear  sister,  Miss  Faiiiiy  IN'ii y.  ol'  New  York,  so  loii^  aftlictcd 
witli  the  most  distressing  of  all  diseases,  had  Ixrome  jH-rfectly 
well. 

We  had  several  very  cordial  iiivitations  to  visit  tln'  Metho- 
dist Conference  in  Tokio.  which  was  just  assend)ling  as  we 
left  Japan,  hut  our  time  would  not  permit  more  than  a  brief 
dro|»  in  for  an  hour  to  hear  Bishop  Foster  give  a  lectnre  on 
astronomy  at  the  opening  u-ception.  We  did  not  (juite 
see  the  connection  of  the  subject  with  the  occassioii, 
although  the  lecture  was  a  good  one,  and  wehad  no  doubt 
the  Conference  would  jirove  a  time  of  blessing.  There 
are  about  twenty  missionaries  and  as  many  native 
preachers  in  the  Methodist  Episcopal  Mission  in  Japan.  It  is 
not  on<'  of  the  largest  missions,  but  it  is  a  good  one.  Wo 
met  a  nund)er  of  the  missionaries  and  presiding  elders,  and 
found  them  good  men  and  tiue,  with  hearts  reaching  out  for 
deeper  spiritual  things.  Dr.  Daniells,  whom  we  had  known 
in  America,  had  been  spending  a  year  in  Tokio.  and  by  his 
earnest  preaching  in  the  jiovver  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  had  been 
a  means  of  inspiration  and  <piickening  to  the  members  of  the 
Mission.  He  kindly  called  upon  us  and  speiit  an  evening 
with  us,  and  we  found  his  heart  full  of  the  spirit  of  the 
Master. 

We  were  invited  to  address  the  missionaiies,  and  a  num- 
ber of  them  came  to  our  meeting  on  Tuesday  evening,  and 
we  spoke  to  them  the  old  simjde  message  of  God  and  His  all- 
sufficiency  and   power.      Our  heart's  cry  all  thi'ough  these 


n 


l*M»»« 


524         l.Ah'<:i'R  OUTLOOKS  ox    ynSSTOSANY  i.Axns. 

niisHioiLiry  IuihIh  has  overl.cou  that  hoth  we  and  othors  may 
know  Him  lu  c.Mitiii^l  ^  ith  all  ou-  woaknoss,  uii.I  ovn-  aKainst 
all  our  ii;iHciil«i"  .    Wstaclos  and  nisuiH-rahle  taHks. 

One  of  the  moHt  interesting  men  we  met  in  Tokio,  and 
one  of  the  wisest  friends  of  Christian  Missions  in  Japan,  is 
T)i.  \V).itnev,  of  the  Ameriean   Legation.   Tokio.     He  is  in 
deep  Rynipathy  with  all  tbnf  iu  ^  >st  in  mission  and  Christian 
work,  and  throngh  Ins  connection  with  the  consnlar  office 
has  rendered  invaluahle  service  to  all  nnssionaries.     He  has 
fcndered  nnu-h  help  to  the  Swedish  missionaries,  and  is  m 
deep  sympathy   with   their  hnmhl.',  self-denying  spirit  and 
work.     We  leceived  some  useful  snggestions  (nmi  him,  and 
before  we  saile.l  were  glad  to  have  a  message  from  him  com- 
mending to  <.ur  missionary  consideration  a  great  unoccupied 
field  of  islan.ls,  Iving  off  the  east  coast  of  Japan. 

There  are  a  great  many  missionaries  in  Tokio,  almost  one 
hundred,  and  almost  all  .  arieties  of  methods  are  represented. 
The  American  Episcopal  Church  is  at  present    .ei>iesented  by 
liev.    Mr.    i'age.    one   of  the  sweetest  spirits  we  hav  met 
abroad      The  American  V    .tists  have  a  strong  work  a       ^ev- 
eral  foreign  lal.orers.     Mr.  and  Mrs.  lirand's  work,  especially, 
U  much  bl.'ssed,  jind  constantly  re,  civ ing  accessions.    The 
Canadian  Methodists,  un.ler  Mr.  Eby,  have  a  great  popular 
1  ibernarVs  and  are  tryii   •  to  draw  the  i>eople  by  the  methods 
usual  in    American  ci  as-popular  lectures  and  illustrated 
Gospel  addresses.     We  have  already  referred  to  the     men- 
can  Fresh  Mevians  ami  Methodists.     Our  Swedish  friends  m 
Tokio  are  biUTowing  awav  .h.wn   among  the  lowest  masses,, 


■i.vns. 

I  otluTH  may 
[  ov»>r  against 

n  Tokio,  and 
in  Japan,  is 
io.  Ho  is  in 
md  (UniHtian 
L)nsular  office 
I'it^s.  Ho  has 
ics,  and  is  in 
n^  spirit  and 
loin  him,  and 
orn  him  com- 
it  luioccupied 

io,  ahiiost  one 

e  represented. 

e[)resented  by 

■vve  hav'    met 

work .        ^ev- 

)rk,  esp«*cially, 

cessions.    The 

great  popular 

)y  the  methods 

and  illustrated 

to  the     nieri- 

;lisli  friends  in 

I  owes*   masses, 


j4C/fOs     /.l/'.rV  l!Y  KAIL. 


525 


and  their  labor  is  not  in  vain.  We  went  to  visit  one  of  their 
chapels,  and  they  showed  us  the  narrow  streets  smd  lanes  all 
around,  where  dozens  of  families  Imddled  together  fis  cloH<>ly 
as  in  the  dives  of  New  Yoik. 

An  effort  was  made  last  winter  by  Mrs.  Morris,  of     liil, 


A  STREET  IN  TOKIO. 


<!  'iia,  to  reach  the  high  class  ladies,  and  some  of  them  at- 
t(  nd«  1  her  Bible  readings  and  showed  some  interest.  It  is 
doubted  by  the  best  and  most  experienced  missionaries 
whether  anyt'  ng  can  be  gained  by  i  di»-e<,t  appeal  to  the 
high  class  feeling  in  Japan.     What  the  uatio?      \ost  needs  is 


526        I.AK-aiK  Ol'TLOOKH  OX  nisyiosMtv  i.Anms. 
M.„„-.,u,h  bun,bUn«  „l   tl,..  f,.,.totJ™u,,unahone„tolTort 
;,,......,  .,1,  ,!.»»...  ana  .,,«iany  th.,  low,.,-  -^l--'.  » 

,.,„nm,>n  l..v,.l  „t  lo»t  and  «nf,.l  l,„...amty  ,m«tmto  at  tl.,. 
;::;::ri>,v M...,,-,  »„,.  accptm,  ^^^  0„m,nn„Salvat,on 

AVithout  rosp^'ct  ..f  l»'lSOnS.  f  ,...nrlnVK  iu 

Tokio  i»  an  unniense  city,     w  o  spt m  i  •' 


TOWER  AND  MOAT,  TOKIO  CAST  UE. 


a,.ivi„«  about  it  i„  -Jinrik.has,-  and  itUterally  t-''-^-" 
to  ,ret  anywhere.  It  seemed  as  lai-ge  as  l.ond.«.  It  .s  ^a.d 
t,  b  7ght  mile,  e«:h  way,  o,-  about  sixty  on,-  mae, 
lal,  We  thought  Nanking  an  immense  e,K-losu,-e  ;  but 
Toir  is  twiee  as  la,-ge.  It  has  a  population  of  more  '^"l^; 
:-monanaac„arter.  There  are  many  -^^^^^^^^ 
ings.    The  National  University,  tl,e  Eoyal  Pala^,  the 


MM 


_i 


I  VPS. 

jonest  ofTort 
18808,  on  the 
itrato  at  the 
on  Salvation 

I  two  days  in 


y  took  us  hours 
i(>ii.  It  is  said 
cty-four  miles 
enclosure ;  but 
of  more  than  a 
gniftcent  build - 
Palace,  the  for- 


I  i 


.iCA'OSsy.iRix  nv  rail. 


527 


eign  hotel,  the  Sliiba  Templt-s,  and  the  great  Moat  around 
the  t'ortner  citadel,  are  striking  erections.  The  prettiest 
thing  about  it  is  the  natural  situation.  It  is  really  a  collec- 
tion of  villages,  the  one  running  into  the  other  with  a  rustic 
freedom  nowhere  else  to  he  found.  You  ride  along  for  a 
while  dcwn  a  great  business  street,  with  American  horse  cars 
running  down  the  middle  of  it.  and,  by-and-by,  you  branch 

off  into  a  nar- 
r  o  w  street 
w  h  i  c  h  soon 
becomes  a 
winding  lane 
lined  with  the 
lovehest  ever- 
green hedges, 
neatly  cut  like 
a  living  wall, 
and  hiding  be- 
hind them  a 
pretty  villa,  or 
little  cottage.  You  pass  along  through  a  perfect  network  of 
these  pretty  lanes,  until  you  i-each  a  hilltop,  where  you  get  a 
view  of  another  hill  beyond  you  covered  with  similar  streets 
and  houses  and  hedges.  And  so  you  pass  on  from  village  to 
village,  over  undulating  hills,  through  pretty  valleys  aud 
ravines,  and  occasionally  through  a  business  street,  until  you 
wonder  if  it  will  ever  end  ;  and,  at  length,  after  you  have 
been  run  for  several  hours  through  all  these  interminable 


ATAGA  YAMA,  NEAR  SHIBA  TEMPLE. 


-JL^ 


528        LARCr.R   Oin.OOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 

roads,  you  reach  your  destination,  and  begin  to  wonder  when 

you  will  ever  get  back. 

We  know  no  place  just  like  it,  so  metropolitan,  yet  so 
rural ;  so  romantic  yet  so  substantial  and  great.  It  is  as  unique 
as  Peking-^ the  worthy  capital  of  the  most  curious,  mixed- 
up  and  clever  littlepeople  on  the  faceof  the  globe,-thepeople 

of  New  Japan. 


.■f^jy^ki:   ■  ■  I'.^^Wl  '--■,-•■>'"        *».  — 


onder  whftu 

itan,  yet  so 
is  as  unique 
oug,  mixed- 
— the  people 


wrmc 


i^  i  . 


:*? 


■'^m 


xxvin. 

LAST  DAYS  IN  JAPAN. 

WE  spent  our  last  week  in  Yokohama.  It  was  a 
strange  luxury  to  look  on  our  old  wayworn  bags 
and  bundles,  and  try  to  realize  that  we  had  only 
to  pack  and  unjjack  them  once  more  before  we  should  be 
homeward  bound.  But  much  yet  remained  to  be  done  ere 
we  could  bid  the  great  Orient  good-bye,  and  we  needed  to 
make  the  most  of  every  moment  that  yet  remained. 

Services  had  been  arranged  for  Sabbath  and  Monday 
evenings  in  connection  with  the  Union  Church.  Dr.  Meacham 
is  the  earnest  pastor  of  this  church,  whose  membership  con- 
sists largely  of  missionaries.  Such  honored  names  as  Hep- 
burn, Loomis,  Ballagh,  Booth,  and  many  more  as  widely 
'known,  make  up  the  constituency  of  this  influential  parish. 
We  had  the  piivilege  of  meeting  most  of  the  missionaries  in 
Yokohama,  not  only  at  the  services  on  Sabbath  and  Monda}- 
evenings,  but  also  personally. 

Good  Mrs.  Pierson,  the  senior  missionary  of  the  Woman's 

Union  Missionary  Society,  and  for  many  years  the  warm 

friend  of  all  our  missionaries,  and  herself  a  member  of  our 

Alliance,  received  us  most  kindly  and  invited  us  to  address 

her  eighty  Bible  women  the  last  night  we  were  in  Japan. 
529 


,  1 


iilBH 


Mia 


530      i^;.<T«'«A'r/.00A-5  0A'..//«/avw^r/...A™. 

Mi,8  Crosby  her  associate  fvom  the  beginning  in  the  work, 

■mi  one  of  the  best  informed  men  «i  Japan  on  a 

t  1  with  the  r»li.-ioua  life  of  the  nation,  called  and 
Z^M  ns  tl  e  ,ate  An>:i..an  papers,  and  gave  us  nrr.h  va  - 
'Ile'infornuvtion  abont  Christian  -vU  in  t  e  e„P^e^  ^ 
Ja,nes  Ballagh,  of  ^^^^^^^  t  Misln- 
"■"  r"* -"  S—t,  "okohama,  kindly  attended  to  our 
busmessforus,a„d.sthe^^^  any  forwarding  busi- 

other  nnssionaiy  01  t'^\""'  „y  (,ie„d  of  many 

ness  in  Yokohan.a.  M,ss  f;";";™'^^,^  her  seventieth 
year,  ago,  was  here,  t«o,  »*  -«j;*J,^" ^^  has  a  large 
birthday,  but  was  lo*mgf-''y»^  ^,, 

missionary  home  and  «<>«"'"'  ^ir-^ionary  under 

Goodell,  who  lately  came  f"'"  Tex^  f    !  '^^^  ^j^^  '^er  for 

,be  An-c-vas^-ifr^^^^^^^^^^  Miance  mis- 

""ires  tas  in  YotoLma,  and  had  .,een  for  about  a  year 
s,onanes  was  m  ^  ^^^^_^^  ,_^^  ^^^,^  ^,„a. 

''"s'^d  *:  le*;  — ^  to  her.    Miss  Pratt  has  made  e. 
nossandisdi^piy  .^  ^  ^^^.^^^  ^^^  ^,^^3 

cellent  pvogi-ess  ■"  *«  "'"^  «  ^u,  g^^day  school  of 

«"'•   r 'I^M-i-  Mashing  village,  down  by  the 
over  fifty  children  ^^  ^^^^  ^^^^^  ^^^.^^^^  „£ 

':l*ir  WH,   *ewas\eaching  the  youngand  unkempt 


LAST  DA  VS  IN  JAPAN. 


531 


ANDS. 

ill  the  work, 
^eminai-y,  the 
rkers,  showed 
Bible  Society, 
n  all  matters 
)n,  called  and 
i  us  much  val- 

empire.  Mr. 
s  devout  spirit 
f  the  Mission- 
ittended  to  our 

same  for  any 
i-wavding  busi- 
riend  of  many 
[  her  seventieth 
She  has  a  large 
,f   guests.    Mr. 
tif^ionary  under 
ae  with  her  for 
ur  Alliance  niis- 
f or  about  a  year 
her  much  kind- 
itt  has  made  ex- 
light  and  gifted 
Sunday  school  of 
re,  down  by  the 
ower  stratum  of 
Ling  and  unkempt 


little  crowd  in  front,  the  rest  of  the  family  were  drinking 
their  tea,  cooking  and  eating  their  rice,  and  winding  and  un- 
winding their  nets  in  the  back  of  the  room.  But  the  little 
faces  were  earnest  and  bright,  and  certainly  kept  much  better 
order  than  the  usual  crowd  of  American  street  boys  would 


VOKOHAVA 

have  done  at  home.     It  v..   probably  the  only  httle  ray  of 
heavenly  light  that  ever  .".ils  on  those  dark  and  neglected 

httle  lives.  . 

We  saw  all  we  cared  to  of  Yokohama.     Jt  is  the  chief 
port  of  Japan.     It  has  a  population  of  about  120,000,  and  a 


532     lahcer  ovti-ooks  on m.'^sfox.iny  lands. 

large  foreign  trade.    Uh  foreign  Bun.l  is  large  and  well  built 
and  compL  favorably  with  other  Oriental  c.t,e^  although 
it  is  interior  to  Shanghai,  Calcutta  and  Bon>bay.    Most  of  the 
fomgners  reside  on  the  Bln«,  which  in  a  bold  and  handson.e 
elevation,  running  out  between  the  harbor  of  VoVohama  and 
the  larger  Bay  of  Tokio.    It  affords  a  magnificent  s,te  fo 
private  houses,  i,eing  cool  and  retired,  and  connnand.ng  good 
views  of    the  harbor  and  bay.     Here  the  vdlas  are  most 
luxurious,  and  the  grounds  spacious  and  eleg.ant.    Like  the 
lotus-eaters  of  old,  the  missionary  who  stays  too  long  he,c 
may  find  his  strength  paralysed  and  bis  spun    enervated  f o. 
the  sacrifices  and  hardships  of  the  interior.    ^  o  do  not  say 
hat  there  are  not  trne,  loyal  and  self-denymg  nnss.onanes 
Iven  in  these  luxurious   surroundings,  bnt  they  need  to 
"watch  and  pray,  lest  they  enter  into  temptation 

Among  the  foreign  residents  here  we  we>-e  glad  to  meet 
our  old  friend,  Mrs.  Jennie  Bramhall,  formerly  of  B™*ly», 
Td  sister  of  Mrs.  Frances  Barrett,  of  the  Gospel  Tabernacle 
New  York.    We  visited  her  in  her  elegant  home,  and  found 
heTtiying  to  bring  up  her  httle  family  in  the  fear  of  God^ 
Her  hnsblnd  represents  a  wealthy  Now  York  sdk  house,  and 
S  business  gives  employment  to  n>any  tens  ot  thousands  of 
Japanese.    She  has  been  very  kind  t»  some  of  our  mrssion- 
aries,  and  her  house  has  been  for  them  a  welcome  home. 

One  of  the  missionaries  took  us  out  one  evenmg  late  fo. 
a  night  view  of  this  heathen  city.  We  had  seen  Shanghai 
and  Singapore  by  gashght,  but  Yokohama  far  exceeds  them 
all  in  shameless  sin. 


IVDS. 

d  well  built, 

es,  althouglt 
Most  of  thi' 
d  handsonio 
Vohama  and 
cent  site  for 
landing  good 
as  are  most 
it.     Like  the 
00  long  here 
■nervated  for 
e  do  not  say 
niissionaries 
hey  need  to 
5n." 

glad  to  meet 
of  Brooklyn, 
i\  Tabernacle, 
lie,  and  found 
i  fear  of  God. 
ilk  house,  and 
[  thousands  of 
f  our  mission- 
ime  home, 
^rening  late  for 
seen  Shanghai 
exceeds  them 


-I 

o 

z 


z 


tn 
fn 


< 
O 

o 

I 
> 
s 
> 


. ,,.  ^p|pM|lpup^^yJ^pj^ 


/..isr  D.ns  r\  J 


533 


'    ilooded,  so  brastly, 

,i>  (iveiy  true  humau 

ide  sutticient  to  freeze 

most  degraded  Imiuan 


T^iere  in  no  indelicacy  in  descrihii  it,  for  it  is  open  to 
fver>  ye,  an<l  almost  every  foreigner  drives  through  this 
street,  liut  it  is  an  awful  sight  to  see  those  foui- thousand 
puulic  li«  utiiitea  of  vice  and  criine,  dressed  in  their  gorgeous 
robes,  and  sitting  there,  in  view  of  luindreds,  behind  the 
open  rasenients.  through  blofk  after  block  of  great  buildings 
111  that  public  tboi'oughfart  ,  lookii  -  like  irattie  in  th(>  stall, 
♦lecked  for  the  shanddes.  It  \va-  ^ 
so  coarse,  so  ghastly,  so  utterly 
frelinp;,  that  one  would  think  th 
the  very  pulses  of  vice  in  all  1 
hearts. 

No  wonder  that  Yokohama  bears  the  name  of  being,  so 
'       at  least,  as  its  foreign  i)o|)ulation  is  coMccrned,  the  wick- 
city  even  in  wicked  Japan. 

Some  of  the  streets  were  full  of  tht  atres,  open  to  the 
public  gaze,  wiiere  the  dreary,  monotonous  sliow  got  s  on  for 
hour  after  hour  before  the  ])atient  sjjectators.  Others  were 
crowded  with  archeries  and  various  shows,  and  all  were  full 
of  people,  surging  past  in  countless  throngs,  till  far  into  the 
night,  all  apparently  happy,  careless,  gay,  and  free  from 
(>very  thought  of  the  morrow.  It  was  a  good  picture  of  one 
phase  of  the  nation-  jolly,  laughing,  boyish,  young  Japan. 

Sometimes  the  ludicrous  comes  up  in  bright  Japan. 
They  are  not  a  people  to  be  laughed  at,  but  they  do  some 
laughable  things.  Here  is  an  advertisement  on  the  front  of 
an  artist's  store  :  "  Want  <'d  -An  Order.  Your  Picture — wiU 
he  made  cheap  on  seiv^  iiis  photograph." 


534 


L.lh'Cr.h'  OUTLOOKS  ON  MfSS/O.y .1  h'V  LANDS 


The  8hop8  are  full  of  toys  of  every  kind— flying  fish, 
birds  that  inflate  and  float  in  the  air,  boxps  of  miniature  ani- 
mals, gods,  cities,  and  every  conceivable  thing.  The  children 
are  everywhere,  and  the  streets  are  full  of  tlieir  jollity,  fun 
and  happy  freedom. 

The  native  stores  are  much  cheaper  than  the  foreign. 

There  are  many  of  the 
latter,    where    costly 
curios  are  sold  to  ex- 
travagant travellers  at 
great     prices.        The 
same  things  can   us- 
ually be  bought  in  the 
Japanese    stores    for 
half  the  price  or  less. 
The  principal  art- 
icles   that    foreigner.-; 
generally    indulge   in 
are  bronzes,  silks,  em- 
broideries,   lacquer 
work,    tortoise    shell, 
photographs,  and  thi^ 
very  pretty  engraved 
pictures  on  their  rice 
paper,      which     they 
hang  on   screens  and 
banners     with      such 

A  JAPANESE  PEDDUER.  l^^^^V  effeCt.        But  WO 


\V 


N -^J 


._,    i,^4 


JV/)S 

flying  fish, 
liaturo  aiii- 
Iie  children 
jollity,  fun 

ho  foreign, 
nany  of  the 
ere    costly 
sold  to  ex- 
.ravellers  at 
ces.        The 
'^H  can   us- 
ught  in  the 
stores    for 
ice  or  less, 
•incipal  art- 
foreigners 
indulge   in 
s,  silks,  eni- 
lacquer 
toiae    shell, 
lis,  and  the 
:y  engraved 
n  their  rice 
'hich     they 
screens  and 
with      Bucli 
ct.     But  we 


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Wiotograpnic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4503 


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CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Hbtorical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  nricroreproductions  historiques 


iliiHli 


EXTERIOR  OF  A  JAPANESE  HOUSE. 


Krproduction  froin  a  Japanese  Painting. 


i 


I 


'"""^"^''""""""''^'"'"'nffii  -w 


L/'ST  DA  YS  /X  JAPAN. 

have  learned  too  well  the  value  of  money  for  higher  purposes 
to  be  strongly  tempted  even  by  these  extraordinary  bargains. 

We  had  much  earnest  work  to  ilnish  in  Yokohama. 
Scores  of  letters  had  accumulated,  and  many  matters  affect- 
ing our  missionaries  in  India,  Malaysia  and  China,  as  well  as 
Japan,  had  to  bo  settled  by  correspondence  before  we  left  the 
great  Eastern  Hemisphere. 

We  had  been  waiting  nearly  a  week  for  our  good  brother, 
Mr.  Lelacheur,  to  come  from  Singapoio  to  consult  with  us 
about  our  whole  work  in  China  and  the  Straits  Settlements 
and  Islands.  So  important  had  this  seemed,  that  we  liad  even 
felt  justified  in  calling  him  from  his  important  work  in  Sing- 
apore, and  a  proposed  journey  to  the  Caroline  Islands,  for  the 
purp  '  of  conferring  with  him  about  the  larger  superintend- 
ence of  the  whole  work  in  China,  including  also  t!ie  Malaysian 
coast  and  islands.  For  this  i)Uipose  he  had  arranged  to  come 
to  Yokohama  to  meet  us  before  we  should  sail,  that  we  might 
together  go  over  all  the  plans  of  the  work,  and  then  separate 
to  our  resp  /e  fields,  he  to  Shanghai  and  we  to  the  west- 
ern world,  to  i;l>  our  people  to  sustain  him  and  his  felloM-- 
workers  by  our  prayers,  counsels  and  contributions. 

For  days  we  had  no  word  from  him,  and  it  seemed  as  if 
he  might  not  be  able  to  make  the  necessary  connection.  But 
at  length  he  arrived,  just  one  day  before  we  were  to  sail,  and 
those  last  hours,  incluchng  most  of  the  night,  were  spent  in 
earnest,  prayerful  conference  and  arrangements.  Our  beloved 
brother  had  come  without  a  moment's  delay,  and  with  all  his 
heart  met  our  suggestions  and  requisitions.  How  we  thanked 


52^ 


LARGER  Orri.OOKS  ox  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


God  for  liis  spirit  and  for  his  valuable  experience  and  train- 
ing !  He  was  just  the  man  our  work  needed  at  this  critical 
stage  in  these  immense  fields.  And  we  were  able  to  commit 
to  him  all  that  God  had  been  laying  on  our  heart  in  those 
vast  oi^'iiings,  and  all  that  He  had  been  permitting  us  in 
some  lnunble  measure  to  begin  during  these  past  days — with 
the  confidence  that  it  would  be  faithfully,  loyally,  and  cour- 
ageously carried  out,  in  so  far  as  the  will  of  God  should  per- 
mit and  the  power  of  God  should  enable. 

We  thanked  God  for  the  rest  with  which  we  were  able 
to  hand  over  all  this  great  trust,  which  had  been  absoi-bing 
us  night  and  day.  After  all  these  long  months  of  perplexity 
and  toil,  we  felt  we  could  turn  our  faces  homeward,  with  the 
delightful  consciousness  that  the  threads  were  all  knitted  to- 
gether, and  ih«>  moorings  all  made  fast  in  the  hands  of  God, 
and  the  humble,  faithful  stewardship,  which  is  a pait  of  His 
plan. 

Then,  too,  we  had  much  earnest  thought  and  responsi- 
bility for  the  work  in  Japan. 

We  had  come  to  these  beautiful  islands,  after  the  heavy 
strain  of  two  hai'd  months  in  China,  with  something  like  a 
sense  of  repose.  We  had  felt  somehow  that  we  had  got 
through  our  birdest  tasks  on  the  mission  field,  and  that  we 
should  have  three  weeks  of  comparative  ease  in  looking  over 
■  this  smaller  field,  and  arranging  the  simpler  and  easier  ques- 
tions of  our  mission  in  Japan. 

But  never  were  we  more  mistaken.  Never  had  we  been 
called  to  meet,  in  so  short  a  time,  so  many  trying,  perplexing 


I  and  tiaiu- 
this  critical 
to  commit 
irt  in  those 
ttiiig  us  in 
ilays — with 
,  and  cour- 
should  per- 

e  were  able 
absorbing 
perplexity 
d,  with  the 
knitted  to- 
ds of  God, 
part  of  His 

d  responsi- 

the  heavy 
hing  Hke  a 
e  had  got 
nd  that  we 
oking  over 
asier  ques- 

id  we  b«en 
perplexing 


/.AST  PA  YS  !N  JAFAN. 


537 


matters,  whicii  weighed  down  our  spirit  night  and  day,  and 
held  us  every  moment  in  conscious  dependence  on  that  very 
Mind  of  Christ  for  the  wisdom,  without  which  we  would  be 
so  sure  to  err. 

They  were  questions  of  which  we  cannot  speak  in  the 
public  ear  ;  but  He  who  knows  all  hearts  knows  well  how 
hard,  how  delicate,  how  important,  how  varied,  how  perplex- 
ing they  were,  and  how  they  arose  in  new  forms  from  day  to 
day,  and  how  gentle  and  gracious  and  wonderful  the  way  in 
which  He  guided,  overruled  and  worked  for  us  and  for  His 
work,  and  out  of  much  that  seemed  confusing  at  length 
brought,  we  lielieve,  His  own  wise  and  simple  plan  and 
order,  through  which,  although  it  may  be  small  as  a  germ  of 
mustard  seed,  and  humble  as  the  company  of  fishermen- 
apostles,  we  believe  He  is  yet  to  bring  great  and  lasting 
blessing  for  Japan. 

When,  at  last,  we  got  through  the  tangled  mazes,  and 
had  nothing  left  but  to  mail  our  bundle  of  letters,  roll  up  our 
rugs,  and  send  our  baggage  on  board  the  ' '  Oceanic, "  w^e  had 
but  one  regret  left,  and  that  was  that  we  had  not  some  of 
our  Tabernacle  friends  at  hand  to  shout  with  us,  "  Blessed  be 
the  name  of  the  Lord  !  " 

On  Friday  morning,  July  Tth,  accompanied  by  half  a 
dozen  true  friends,  we  stepped  on  board  the  steam  launch  at 
Yokohama,  and  in  half  an  hour  were  in  our  cabin  on  the 
"Oceanic,"  commending  our  beloved  fellow -workers,  in  a 
parting  prayer,  to  the  care  of  Him  whose  Presence  covers 
land  and  sea.  and  knows  no  dividing  space  or  time. 


538       LARGER  OUTLOOKS  ON  AffSSfONARY  LANDS. 

In  a  few  minutes  we  were  mutually  waving  our  affec- 
tionate adieue  as  they  .ailed  back  in  the  stean.  launcl.  arul 
then  we  were  cIT.  Th.  fluttering  signals,  the  ruo  s  of  Yoko^ 
hama,  the  shores  of  Japan  receded  from  view,  and  our  great 
Bhip  was  sweeping  homeward. 

Six  months  of  intensely  busy  travel  were  abotit  to  end, 
and  we  began  to  xealize  how  nmch  cause  we  had  for  gratitude 
and  praise  to  Him  who  had  s.>  graciously  gmded  and  so  w.m^ 
drously  guarded  us  through  all  these  changn.g  scenes,  and 
^rfkindly  kept  the  great  trusts  that  we  had  Je  t  at  .me 
Just  before  we  sailed,  our  cup  was  made  f ulle,  by  letters 
from  India  and  China,  telling  of  good  news  fron.  all  om- 
work     God  had  already  opened  one  new  station  in  Cential 
China  and  given  us  a  house  at  Han  San  H'sien.     And  from 
Shanghai  came  the  tidings  of  the  great  impi-ovement,  am  it 
was  hoped  recovery,  of  the  dear  Swedish  missionary  we  had 
^ft  in   uch  distress  there.     From  India  came  the  tidings  of 
two  other  open  fields  of  service,  and  God's  help  U.  our  dear 
n^issionaries  through  all  the  terrible  ^^^^^^^  f  ""^^"^'^^^^ 
son    Along  with  this  came  the  message  from  deai  Mi  s.  Fuller 
hat  her  dfrling  babe  had  been  taken  out  of  this  furnace  of 
summer  heat  to  the  home  where  the  sun  shall  not  light  on 
them  nor  any  heat  ;  but  with  it  came  a  letter  so  brave,  .  • 
trrhearted,  sounselflsh,  so  full  of  thought  for  others  that 
we  could  only  thank  God,  with  humbled  heart,  for  her  heroic 
spirit,  and  the  victory  that  faith  can  bring. 

From  across  the  great  seas  came  also  the  message  that 
our  own  dear  mother  had  just  gone  to  join  our  revered  and 


[)uv  affec- 
Linch,  and 
1  of  Yoko- 
onr  great 

it  to  end, 
•  gratitude 
id  so  won- 
cenes,  and 
t  at  home. 
■  by  letters 
.tu  all   our 
ill  Central 
And  from 
lent,  and  it 
iry  we  had 
!  tidings  of 
;o  our  dear 
he  hot  sea- 
Mra.  Fuller, 
?  furnace  of 
i(»t  light  on 
so  brave,  i' ) 
others,  that 
)r  her  heroic 

Message  that 
revered  and 


LAST  D.iVS  f\'  JAP.IN. 


539 


honored  fatber  in  the  home  above.  We  thanked  our  Fatber 
for  her  fourscore  years,  and  the  sweet  memory  of  her  life 
and  love,  and  for  that  dear  and  v«Mierable  father,  wlio,  at 
eighty-four,  had  just  a  little  while  ago  passed  on  before,  and 
we  felt  that  they  bud  not  gone  very  far  away.  How  nnuii 
of  this  rich  bh^sing  that  has  crowded  onr  life  is  due  to  their 
faithful  prayers  !  Tliank  God  for  their  precious  lives  and 
everlasting  memorial. 

And  from  our  home  in  New  York  there  were  so  many 
cheering  messages  of  synipatliy  and  remembrance  and  prayer, 
and  the  record  of  the  generous  kindness  that  had  met  the  loss 
of  our  publishing  bouse  through  the  recent  fire,  that  our  cup 
was  filed  to  overflowing,  and  we  were  made  to  feel  utterly 
unv/orthy  of  all  this  goodness,  and  utterly  unable  adequately 
to  express  our  grateful  praise. 

How  faithful  G(.d  has  been  to  all  our  dear  flock  and  our 
dear  work  at  home  ! 

We  have  had  nothing  but  notes  of  praise  from  the  work 
in  the  TaOernacle,  Berachah  Home,  the  College,  Hebron,  the 
Orphanage,  the  publishing  work,  the  Door  of  Hope,  and 
the  Missionary  Board.  The  presence  of  the  Holy  Ghost  has 
been  constantly  "ith  our  beloved  people.  The  spirit  of  unity 
and  love  has  pre  .  c  led.  The  means  for  our  great  niissionaiy 
work  have  continually  been  supplied  by  onr  Father's  bounty 
and  His  people's  faithfulness.  How  can  we  sufficiently  bless 
Hib  gracious  Name  and  thank  His  beloved  people  !  May  His 
richer  grace  enable  us  to  be  worthier  of  all  His  love. 


XXIX. 

THE  SITUATION  IN  JAPAN. 

BKF<  )RE  wo  get  beyond  the  shore-line  of  Jiiimn,  let  us 
try  to  gather  up  the  mingled  iini)ression3  that  have 
he«Mv  growing  into  something  like  a  ])icture  of  this 
interesting  people,  as  we  have  passed  through  their  midst 

these  twenty  days. 

If  anything  that  we  may  write  should  go  hack  to  Japan, 
as  doubtless  it  will,  we  tiust  that  the  picture  will  be  recog- 
nized as  the  sketch  of  a  friend.  We  cannot,  even  to  avoid 
criticism  and  i.ain,  be  false  to  our  convictions  ;  and  yet  we 
tmst  that  we  niay  not  exaggerate  an  eccentricity  or  a  fault, 
or  fail  to  give  full  credit  to  every  real  merit. 

Of  course,  like  the  sketches  of  our  little  kodak,  these  are 
all  flash  picture's,  taken  at  sight,  and  not  pretending  to  be 
elaborate'  and  studied  drawings  ;  we  simply  give  them  for 
what  they  may  he  worth. 

The  people  are  always  the  first  thing  y*)U  see. 

How    shall  we    describe  a  Japanese?    A  little,   dark, 

thick-set  man,  always  reminding  you  of  a  boy,  with  round 

head,  flat  features,  and  an  immense  growth  of  thick,  black 

hair.'that  usually  is  cut  short  and  stands  on  ends  like  a 

04" 


I»uii,  let  us 

that  liave 

re  of  this 

hoir  midst 

t  to  Japan, 

be  recog- 

'11  to  avoid 

ind  yet  we 

or  a  fault, 

t,  these  are 
iding  to  bo 
e  them  for 


ittle,  dark, 
with  round 
thick,  black 
ouds  like  a 


THi'.  siTr.\rio\  I\'  I  IPAS. 


541 


young  forest  of  underbrush.  This  was  our  hrst  iiripression 
of  a  Jap.  If  ho  is  a  coolie,  ho  weais  a  blous*;  ovtT  his  back, 
a  cloth  around  his  loins,  and  a  pair  <»f  straw  sandals  on 
his  feet.  If  he  is  a  "riksha"  man, he  mayhaveona  sijit  of 
navy  blue,  consisting  of  a  loose  blouse  coat,  skiiitiglit,  blue 

drawers,  straw  sandals, 
and  a  white  hat.  like 
an  inverted  wash  basin, 
«  on  his  head.  If  he  is 
a  gentleinati,  lie  liiis  a 
loose  robe,  like  a  ilress- 
inggown.  called  a  "  ki- 
mono," gathered  about 
his  i»(»ison,  reaching  t<» 
his  feet,  and  fastened 
with  a  sash,  and  on  bis 
feet  a  pair  of  wooden 
sandals,  raised  about 
three  inches  from  the 
ground  by  w  o  o  d  e  n 
cleats  oi-  props,  to  keej) 
him  above  the  mud, 
and  perhaps  add  to  his 
height  and  supi»lement 
the  defect  of  nature  in  completing  his  stature.  If  he  is  a 
little  more  Americanized  than  his  fellows,  he  is  dressed  in 
a  foreign  suit,  usually  with  short  sack  coat,  punts,  shoes  and 
hat,  and  looks  a  little  strange  and  out  of  place  in  his  foreign 


"if- 


:^^^li0tb 


A  JAPANESE  COURIER. 


t4»      LAKc.F.R  orri.ook's  OS  mss/os/ipy  lands. 
dre8B,-0on.ething  lik.  a  K,>m<.»uuan  ,.r  u  IN.le,  but  nmch 

darker  fiiul  Hhortt'r. 

Tho  labor.  ,.,  a.,d  enpecially  ...o  "  riksha"  men,  are  very 
nmssive  in  their  build,  and  tb<.ir  lind.s  are  bko  groat  pdlar.. 
my  run  bko  horacH.  and  go  all  over  the  land  on  tremendous 

'""Many  of  the  educated  nu-n  have  very  bright,  intelligent 
^  faces,  and  a  manly  b(>arnig  ; 

and  while  few  Japanese  men 
aie  fine-looking,  their  extra- 
ordinary politeness,  and  their 
easy  and  charming  manners, 
make  them  always  attractive 
and  interesting. 

A  Japanese  woman  is  a 
pretty  study.     She  is  almost 
always  small.     Indeed,  they 
all  seemed  to  us  like  girls  of 
thirteen  or   fourteen.     Their 
dress  is  very  like  that  of  tne 
men,— a  loose  robe,  with  im- 
A  JAPANESE  QiRL.  monso  slceves  that  hang  down 

like  wings.  This  robe  is  folded  around  her  person,  left  quite 
too  oTen  at  the  bosom,  and  fastened  around  the  wa.st  wjth  a 
sash  which  terminates  over  her  loins  in  a  g-at  square  bow, 
X  a  cushion,  and  n.aking  one  feel  tempted  to  thn.k  that  she 
arries  it  to  sit  down  upon  when  tired.  Her  face  .s  round 
and  fuU,  always  pretty,  and  all  faces  very  much  ahke.     One 


vns. 

but  much 

n,  are  very 
'OJit  pillivra. 
tromemlouH 

,  iutelligeut 
ly  bearing  ; 
puiiese  men 
tb(Mr  oxtra- 
5S,  and  their 
ig  manners, 
/»  attractive 

woman  in  a 
,l\o  is  ahnost 
Indeed,  they 

like  girls  of 
rteen.     Their 
e  that  t)f  tne 
^be,  with  im- 
at  hang  down 
son,  left  quite 
i  waist  with  a 
t  square  bow, 
think  that  she 

face  is  round 
;h  alike.     One 


'/•///■:  s/Tf :  I  /vox  i\  japan. 


543 


would  think  it  must  be  very  dithcult  t»»  pick  out  one's  friundt) 
in  Japan,  the  faces  seem  all  so  uniform.  Her  complexion  is 
generally  rosy,  her  eyes  small  andalnuMul-Hhaped,  but  brij^ht 

iind  playful, 
her  expr<>«sion 
kin<l,  frank 
and  refined. 
Her  hair  is 
black  as  a  coal, 
and  usually 
combed  up  in 
front  in  a  sort 
of  Pompadour 
fashion,  and 
tied  behind  in 
a  glossy  roll, 
orna  m  e  n  t  e  d 
with  flowers, 
ribbons  and 
combs,  vari- 
ously shaped 
accordingly  as 
she  is  married 
or  single,  of 
high     or    low 

station.  Her  figure  is  usually  plump  and  graceful,  and  she 
is  mounted  on  a  high  pair  of  stilts  oi  sandals,  raising  her 
about  three  o^'  four  inches  above  the  ■    ound,  on  which  she 


A  JAPANESE  WOMAN. 


■■VBMIM 


544 


L^iRci^N  orri.ooKS  on  Mfssmx.iA-y 


/..iNns. 


544        .   J         1 

hobbles  about  with  studied  shuffle,  which  i«  conside^d  K«od 

.Japanese  how  i..thi„g  neve,  to  he|o,.^u.^«.;^^^^^ 

ladies  approach  each 
other  in  a  room,  and 
l„>w  low,  till  their 
foreheads  touch  the 
ground,  and  repeat  the 

ceremony  two  or  three 
times  until  you  won- 
der if  they  are  ever  go- 
ing to  speak.    Much 
of     it,   of    course,   is 
mere  form,  and  back 
of  it  may  lie  a  heart 
full  of  hppocrisy  and 
hate.   'But  it  is  often 
very  pretty,  although 
a  good  deal  overdone. 
Their  mental 
characteristics       are 
Frenchy.       They    re- 
.  ..PANEse  MAN.  mind  you  irresistibly 

of  the  poUshed  race  ^^^^^Z^^^ 
They  are  very  bright,  .mck^.n^ell^-^^^^^^^ 

andenthusiast.c;veryref^n^^^^^^^^^^ 
of  change,  superficial,lackmg  m  teeung 


THE  srif  A-rrox  ixjirAX. 


545 


loi-ed  good 

1(1  studied. 
It  is  quite 
to  see  two 
•oiich  eacli 
room,  and 

till  their 
touch  the 
d  repeat  the 
wo  or  three 
1  you  won- 
are  ever  go- 
eak.  Much 
'  course,  is 
n.  and  hack 

lie  a  heart 
ppocrisy  and 
it  it  is  often 
ty,  although 
eal  overdone, 
ir  mental 
•istics       are 
They    re- 
al irresistibly 
of  the  world, 
lious,  intense, 
isive,  hut  fond 
iriDg  strength. 


A  JAPANESE  VILLAGE. 

They  have  far  outstripped  the  Chinaman  at  the  start,  but  ' 
perhaps  the  Chinaman  will  win  the  race.  ,        ,      , 

Yet  their  mental  faculties  are  not  to  be  undervalued. 
Everything  must  he  judged  by  facts  and  fruits  and  the 
progress  of  Japan  in  a  generation  is  phenomenal  and  un- 
paralleled. 


'.'.Tts^'^^m^^^s'^^vf^wi^mmmmin 


Te.  yea,.  n.o  we  thou«.,t  -  ];-;  ^^t:!*" 
had  to  begin  our  studies  ane\N 

"°11nTl:1lt:Lpi..  ,yin«  .out,,  o,  Corea  and 
Jai.an    s  an  ^.^^^  ^  terntory  of 

about  Ave  •"'""^; ;;„„„«„„  „„  U„ge  a,  Germany. 
J  (50,000  square  nnleb,  ana  a  y  \ 

"T— "ofrera.  U,«e  islands  and  a  great  many 
It  cons,st8  ot  ^  _^^^j^j^  government :  one 

BmaU  o,>es     ^™  »ff  '      j„  ^^,  the  sup.^rae  head,  dweU- 

«pmtua.,  "V!''\tta  a^Kyotorand  a.mo;t  worshipped  ;  the 
i„g  in  sacred  isolat.",!  at  Kjot  ^  ^^^^^ 

othertemporal  «,.d  --  to    'eu  ^^  ^„^  j^^p„^, 

■J^L^rS:"---  a,  it  wasca„ed,_andits 

n^eX'aXoe  -^:- -jrrBar::; 

-''-^'Ttl'f^lttte  farr-chants.  etc. 
or  gentry,  and  then  ,nm      ,  ^^.         ^^^^  ^^„ 

^'*tr  ^'Ay  o  — nt,  patriotic  and  determined 
'''  Itol  c^ghtened  oligarchy, havi.>g carefully  studied 
men,  a  soit  ot  enug"..  modern  civihzation, 

■      »*  ''^^'^r "m^roTlTtir  country  steadUy  for 
have  pressed  th«'  ''"'P«      j^j  ,e™lution  so  complete  that 
wardint«apol.t,caland  ^a  ^^_^  ^j_^^^  „^  i^ 

the  customs  and  t'''^'*'™^;' ^  ^^.^      ^  united  monarchy, 
a  single  generatoon  ^-^^^^^^eM  English  I^rda  and 


'.ANDS. 

;h  of  this  land 
ouud  that  we 
n,  has  revolu- 

of  Corea  and 

a  territory  of 

B  as  Germany, 

a  great  many 
'^ernment :  one 
ne  head,  dwell- 
■orshipped  ;  the 
lilitary  system, 
>f  the  temporal 
called,— and  its 

castes  of  India, 
ne  the  Samurai 

merchants,  etc. 
ings   have   been 

and  determined 
carefully  studied 
dern  civilization, 
atry  steadily  for- 
30  complete  that 
en  thrown  off  in 
imited  monarchy, 
nglish  Lords  and 
presentatives,  and 


INTERIOR  OF  A  JAPANESE  HOUSE. 
RcproducUon  from  a  Japanese  Painting. 


m 


I  vi 


*tl! 


THE  SirUAl  I0^'  IN  JAPAN'. 


AN  AVENUE  IN  JAPAN. 


547 


a  franchise  much  more  wisely  regulated  than  our  universal 
suffrage  in  America ;  and  along  with  the  new  political  con- 
stitution has  come  a  national  system  of  Customs.  Post,- 
offices,  railways,  telegraphs,  telephones,  police,  and  com- 
mon school  and  higher  education  almost  as  complete  as  in 
the  western  countries. 

A  weekly  Sahbath  has  been  appointed,  and  is  kept  as  a 


L 


'^'^ 


mmmm 


fi 


?he  Na«,.,K,.  M,nt  at  ^  TTJ^ .^.  «u„boats, 
and  camum,  ami  V  e  ,v  .th       .  K.^  ^^^^^  ^^^^^^  ^^^  ^.^^^^^^ 


,iii*" 


»ISl2 


■=S**s 


>^ 


5*^»SS* 


THE  "TOKA.DO,"  OR  PUBLIC  HIGHWAY,  JAPAN. 


,;!rtinW«B««««^-' 


DS. 

ished,  and 
r.  Native 
gunboats, 
sof  Krupp 
ins  to-day, 
ss.andthJ^y 


-"T^ 


THE  STTVATrON  IS' JAPAN. 


549 


,t.    The  great 

students,  and 

g  up  to  it,  and 

buted  through 

hiurch  nfiedstc* 


THE  FALLS  OF  HAKONE. 


seud  medical  missionaries  to  Japan  or  even  to  teach  them 
liigher  education.  They  are  imitating  every  western  in- 
vention,  and  even  the  modern  bicycle  is  manufactured  m 
Japan,  and  sold  at  one-half  the  price  it  costs  in  America. 


Thei.  Ship...,  t,.aa»  i«  K;"--,t:-^„^':for:  ^d 

i8  worthy  of  all  praise.  country.     The  first 

wo  have  »Vok''"  «  "  i  tCty.'  »  U  a  very 
thing  'hat  'mp-^se^  t «  «^^  ^^  ^  ^^^.^„„^  ■ 

oflreon,  its  dwarf  pines  .t,  nee  «   f/""!  ,,a  Inland 

Sea,itBHakoneI^lceanaN.kkoMo  ^__^ 

of  comparison   wth    any  other  la"". J  4  ^^^ 

rrrs:::iitr:rnrst:;^^^^^^^^^^  an  „h,et  oe 

Ch  "r—  inter^t.    Its  str^t.  as  a  ruie,  are  Oean. 

ana  its  houses  attractive  and  pleasant, 

A  Japanese  house  is  a  perfect  .deal  of  ta  te 
For  a  summer  residence  •'  -""V?^  ha.  no  pa^al  ^_^_^^ 

Jor  winter  use  it  must  he  often  « J^d.  "      comfortable 
modification  before  a  f''™«";^  ";.,■:  f^euine^ 
home.     But  in  sunnner  .t  .s  »  P     "  ^^  »         j^j^^,  «,  ad- 

S^hrror::;;  ::;r  :h:^"  ^"--e -— '' 


hey  run 
rea,  and 
hey  are 
igineers, 
e  do  not 
progress 

rhe  first 
is  a  very 
jeeling  in 
tains  and 
ty.    It  is 
;t3  shades 
:e  mosaic 
nd  Inland 
re  worthy 
laint  and 
e  it  t^  the 
object  of 
are  clean, 

nd  beaaty. 
I,  although 
leeds  much 
iomfortable 
!8S,  with  its 
ons,  its  ad- 
apartment^ 


Tlir  SiriATIOS'  IS  JAIWS'. 


551 


itH  pivtty  paper  windows.  an<l  its  stiitVcd  niiittinK  Hdois,  soft 
a»  I'UsliioiiH,  oil  which  tlu'y  Hit  without  <hairs,  and  no  one 
ever  ti-eads  except  with  unshod  feet.  You  always  leave 
your  shoes  outside  a  Japanese  house,  and  the  floors  are 
always  clean.  We  noticed  that  even  in  the  farm  cottan.'S 
the  r()(jnis  were  neat  and  tidy,  and  the  hoiu«'  \\W  of  tlif  p»'o- 
ple  seemed  somewhat  refined  and  comfortable. 

Coming  out  of  China  to  Japan  seemed  likt^  coming  out 
of  a  cellar  into  a  garden  of  suushine.  And  to  (-hange  the 
ttgure,  China  seemed  like  a  great  Colossus,  always  looking 
backward ;  Japan,  like  a  bright  steed,  looking  ever  forward 
and  leaping  out  into  the  future  in  the  face  of  the  sunrise. 

And  yet  China  has  taken  hold  of  our  heart,  and  we  be- 
lieve of  the  hearts  of  most  Christian  workers,  as  Jajjan  never 
can,  and  ins{)ir«'8  a  confidence  and  expectation  for  the  -e- 
moter  future  which  we  beheve  will  be  realized  when  Jai)iu 
shall  have  swept  through  all  the  stages  of  her  more  ephemeral 
and  precocious  growth,  and  have  begun  to  show  the  reaction 
of  premature  age. 

There  is  one  subject  of  which  we  nuist  speak  plainly 
before  we  refer  to  the  religious  situation.  We  mean  the 
morals  of  Japan.  We  fear  they  are  a  frightfully  irnrnor:.! 
people.  The  dress  of  their  women  is  very  inimoilest  ;  and  of 
their  men,  often  outrageous. 

Their  habits  and  customs  in  public  baths  are  said  to  be 
grossly  improper,  and  their  laws  and  ideas  in  regard  to  the 
regulation  of  vice  woi-se  than  even  in  India.  The  dress  of 
the  people  is  not  intended  to  be  immodest.     The  worst  thing 


o,-rr.ooK's  ox  ia/.vs/oa./a')- /../.\7;5. 

.,„,. ....  ...«  ,».t  of  a  -;>«"•  •^-  "  ve\v..n.utt,.,-.y  »h,K.U«l 

.,„., una »l...ul,l  in  .11  .-.v.!.";'        ».    ;'^,„.,i„„«  ,.,.nted  « 

,.  .  ,;f,.  t„  „.,,..v..  h..r  f..tl  e    t"^^  „  t  and 

morals. tvinoug  til''  i>'»"^*       ' 

ana  vice.  awaifea    aiul    defective 

We  Lave  been  t<M     ha     tl.       ^^  _^  ^^^^  ^^  ^^^ 

^^y^^'^^-'''X:\Z^Zn.^.  the  nation  has  pasHed. 
,,^..Hof  nnnm.aht>  ^^'""^  ^^  j,  A.noHtevery  Japanese 
We  are  strongly  ten^.ted  to  ^^^^-  ,^,  j,  ,Uape, 

and  hears  the  niatws 

ancestoi-s.  i,.riuential  native  Christians 

We  rejoice  to  k.u.w  ^"•"*7"7*: ";     .^  ,,,„,^i  ,etorm  as 
.irintr  in  hr  nn  Jihout  sucn  a  nioi.vi 

are  bravely  working  ^^»;'»'"^         the  Mikado  to  the  meanest 
^iU  sweep  all  the  way  down  ^-'^  ^«J^     ^.^     ^^^^  ,,ierated 
-He,  and  will  a^oU^h  l^  X.-.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^    ^_  ,,^,  ,.  .^ 
immorality  m  e  •   -    >;rn  .         ^^^  ^^^^^  ^^^^^^^  ^^^,  ^„„^,,,. 
permanently  gv  .    -  ^^  ^^^^^^^.^^  ^^,,,.  i,,„,,s. 

hood,  punfy  '^^'^  .i.annu.,u. 


,,MW«iiawi»^^-«'^" 


n 


Tin:  sin  .1  Tfox  /\  / mix. 


553 


it,  and 
it.  Tn- 
nil  lift'. 
^nu«^  it 

years  to 
i-es3,  and 
poet  and 
irt  f«'asta 
B  live  in 
3  tone  of 
to  laxity 

(U'fective 
lue  to  the 
IS  passed. 
r  Japanese 
r  in  shape, 
tiou  ill  his 

Christians 
[  reform  as 
ihe  meanest 
u\  tolerated 

hope  to  he 
her  woman- 
es. 


mi^^ionary 

^^oinK  on  to 

irts  .f  the 


Tl'.opulilKuUitua-ion  in  .l««i,  us  it  uffe<tH  foreiKiiers, 
is  brietly  this:  Tlnougli  the  la..t  tr«.atics  with  foreign  natioiis, 
certain  cities  in  the  "mpire  are  <.|H,n  for  foreiKH  trade,  uiid  in 
all  other  placew  foreign'  is  «'an  only  reside  luuUi  sptuiial  pass- 
ports. These  passports  ar»'  of  two  kinds;  vi/.,  travelling 
l)assports,  wl»ith  have  to  l^e  renewed  every  few  nmnthH,  and 
ivsich'nce  passports,  which  are  only  givn  t«  foreijcnnrs  who 
^o  to  tea<h  in  the  interior  in  Japanese  schools. 

These  restrictions    have    greatly  hainpt 
work  in  the  interior,  and  an  agitation  ha.   he. 
Hecure  treaty   revision  and   free  access    i.    al 

country. 

On  the  other  hand,  the  Japanes*^  are  much  .1    satisfied 
with  some  clauses  in  1  .e  treaty,  notably  one  rehi  to  cus- 

toms, giving  a  decuh  I  advantage  to  foreignei  mother 
allowing  all  foreigners  i  i  Japan  to  live  under  i\v  ,  .sdiction 
of  their  respective  consu  s,  and  to  he  tried  in  all  juti  '^ial  pro- 
cesses  before  consular  i  mrts  instead  of  native  t  .inals. 
This,  the  Japanese  feel,  !•  Us  their  own  people  to  gn  disad- 
vantage in  all  issues  with  foreigners.  And  there  hoen 
growing  up.  for  some  tim -,  considerable  political  ai.  anti- 
foreign  feeling,  until,  two  ears  jig...  it  reached  the  i  mt  of 
real   irritation,    which    oc.  asionally    broke    out  in    act      of 

hostihty. 

There  has  been,  doubtl.  s,  in  the  past  two  years,  a  strong 
and  favorable  reaction,  and  a  real  friendliness  between  the 
government  of  Japan  and  t  e  western  nations,  which  is  ut- 
terly different  from  the  nati.  nal  sentiment  in  China. 


■    ,     1  1,^  been  copying  wholesale  the  best  ideas 

J-l-";"*''on^  ltd  flly  acknowledges  hev  obliga- 

of  the  western  nations  a^.d  y      ^^^^^.^^  ^^,„,a  to 

tions  to  them     bhe  sent  a       y  ^^^.^  ^^^^^^  ^^^ 

study  the  institutions  o£  '^e  We*  »        the  laws  and  jurjs. 
—  "rCeT  — :  a:T'indust.al  .^,.^^- 

rrm":sr::ti"rintoaho.„ogenous 

Ta^::  t;:^-  aid  .aUe  it  tho..ugh,y  national  and  a 
sort  of  paragon  and  pattern  to  the  worM.  ^^ 

^at;r  ;= --*  r." -- »- 

world  in  the  New  D-P--^^^  ,,^  ^^  ,„,  ^^  dependent 
^a  so  she  ao<.  — hjo^;;^^  ,,;„„  „„»  everything 
on  foreigners,     bhe  is  giau  »- 
„„st  be  subservient  to  *«  Japanese^  ^.^_^^^.^_^ 

r  ^'VrtTerT  irthXry  o,  the  opening  ot 
We  need  "»    ^ere  re  ^^  ^.^^^^  __^^^  ^^^^  ^  ^^„„ 

foreign  missions  in  Japan,  .missionaries  and 

ation,the«.  are  to-day  ^fT^^^X  i^-^»^--^-    Ahont  one- 
forty  thousand  native  "^•^f  ^"J  '"  '  ^^^^  Presbyterian 

quarter  of  these  Chri^*-;  tlel—  Board,  and  the 
churches,  about  one-quaitf.   to  the  A  ^^^ 

rest  are  divided  among  a  ««-    «-«™  organized  native 
thousand  Christians,  however,  -P-Bont  au     g  ^^^  ^ 

force  ,u.te  out  o'  P-VK.*on  *    a„^*-f^,^^.^    .  ^   ^^^^^ 
India  ov  China.    Many  ot    them  a.  ,   k 


ependent 
^^erything 

iuation. 
(pening  of 
n  a  gener- 
laries  and 
^bout  one- 
•esbyterian 
id,  and  the 
'hese  fotty 
lized  native 
we  find  in 
in    native 


THE  SITVATION  IN  J. \  PAS. 


555 


churches,  which  are  entirely  self-supporting,  and  are  min- 
istered to  by  their  native  pastors,  and  the  fcneign  mission- 
aries aie  simply  overseers  of  the  work  or  teachers  in  the 
schools.  Indeed,  very  many  ot  the  foreigners  are  not  even 
recognized  as  overseers  ;  for  the  native  churclies  have  as- 
sumed the  diiection  of  the  entire  work,  and  tht^  foreigners 
aresimply  advisory  committees  and  friends,  and  the  native 
church  takes  the  direction  of  the  evangelistic  and  missionary 
operations,   as   well  as  the  pastoral  work    of    the    settled 

churches. 

The  United  Presbyterian  Church  has  adopted  an  entirely 
new  creed  as  the  basis  of  its  imion,  founded  si  i b-tantially  on 
the  Apostles'  Creed.  It  does  not  even  recogni.-e  the  Western 
Confession  of  Faith,  but  is  bound  together  by  a  declaration 
as  simple  and  catholic  as  the  constitution  of  our  own  Gospel 
Tabernacle.  In  its  Presbyteries,  which  control  the  entire 
work  of  the  church,  the  native  pastoi-s  and  elders  have  seats, 
and  the  foreign  missionary  has  not  even  a  vote  unless  he  is 
either  a  pastor  or  an  elder,  and  very  few  of  them  are  native 
pastors,  so  that  it  can  be  easily  seen  an  independent  native 
church  has  been  growing  up  which  is  very  rapidly  getting  out 
of  the  hands  of  the  Foreign  Missionary  Board. 

In  the  American  Board  churches,  which  rank  next  in 
number  and  influence  to  the  United  Presbyterian  Churches, 
there  is  even  a  stronger  movement  toward  independence,  and 
the  American  missionaries  are  more  and  more  feeling  it,  and 
preparing  for  the  hour  when  their  presence  will  be  no  longer 
needed.    Indeed,  very  strong  expressions  of  this  kind  have 


•: 


live  and  the  con,pav.t.vely  - -H  «P™^»  °  ,„„  .„     ,a,  while 
A  teeiP'"*^'""'':''^''**  ;r  ™  two  hundred  yen- 

.  native  V^^ -^^^  ^^Z^  f^<^^^ '^  ."-f 
whichiaonlyabout*l...-.ng>  ji^,„,t  to  see  how  the 

„„daly  at  '""*'•'■  ""llonKuig  fov  independence,  desiring  to 
growing  native  church.  '»■«:"*:  ',  ^„  ^^ke  the  most 

Leioparea,  ^'^^X^^^^^^'"'  ^"■"^"™^ 
„t  all  the  money.  »*  ^  ^^i;,,,  „„,i,,,e  to  fully  understand 
,„.an  that  ■^-;S:;:t;.cun,stances  in  which  the  for- 
:tT::UWrsh:u,d  he  temped  to  .ay.  ■^«ive  us  your 

--•-"::;r:— -e'»pro,.a.^ 

In  view  ot  all  these  ^^^^^  g^^.^. 

,.^.t  time  ^ -^ -tr— Jl  foreign  element  hy 

»«-^°*'7:;,  ^trff'a  gradual  transfer  of  the  work  to 
degrees  and  1-P;«  f^^^^  ,,,  g„i„g  home  and  some  may 
native  hand.  A  good  y^_^  ^^.^„„,„,mw  „y  these  sue- 
not  return.  But  even  i  j  :  jjfy  their  with- 
,«rf„l  missions  is  not  yet  '*"!^^^;  ^  J,  ,, /et  only  20,000 
drawal.  Together  these  t«o  ""^'"''l^^^J^'ovk  has  but 
converts  out  of  forty  million  peo,^.  and  ^h«r  ^^  _^^^ 

begun.    0«1  must  ha..  -- ^^^;X  hear  from  some  of 
ing  this  difficulty.    ^;'\;;  ;:;  J„„,ries  the  assurance  that 

the  oldest  -<•--;;'*„  he  done  by  foreigners  in  Japan, 
there  was  tuucU  woik  yet 


e-iSTSST  s-'''  t"-«$rf-i-r' 


^ 


it  times 
-n  some 
reigners 
eachers. 
id,  while 
,d  yen- 
pressed 
how  the 
'Siring  to 
the  most 
imetiraes 
iderstand 
I  the  for- 
.  us  yom- 

bly  at  the 
older  soci- 
iiement  by 
»e  work  to 
soine  may 
these  suc- 
their  with- 
only  20,000 
,rk  has  but 
ay  of  meet- 
om  some  of 
turance  that 
rs  in  Japan, 


THE  sni-.rj/ox  ixj.iPAX.  557 

and  undiminished  need   for  their  presence,  counsel  and  in- 
fluence. 

The  other  missions  and  churches  do  not  seem  to  have 
felt  so  strongly  or  at  all  seriously  tliis  ultra  independent 
spirit.  Perhaps  there  are  reasons  in  their  own  methods  of 
work  which  will  account  for  this.  As  we  have  looked  at  the 
whole  situation  in  Japan,  we  have  had  the  following  consider- 
ations deeply  impressed  upon  us  as  they  affect  the  present 
needs  of  the  work  in  this  land. 

1.  There  is  need  for  a  deep  si.iritual  movement.     Much 
of  the  progress  of  Japan  has  been  educational  and  intellectual. 
Much  of  the  work,  even  of  the  missionaries  themselves,  has 
been  to  develop  a  young  giant  of  philosophical  culture  and 
theological  smartness,  who  is  in  danger  of  growing  too  strong 
for  them.     We  could  not  help  feeling  almost  everywhere  m 
Japan  this  sense  of  intellectuahsm  and  the  cry        our  heart 
was  for  the  deeper,  humbler,  diviner  strength  c .    ae spiritual 
life,  which  crucifies  the  strong-headed  will,  v   .ich  lays  ec- 
clesiastical ambition  in  the  dust,  which  baptizes  with  tender- 
ness and  love,  and  which  brings  the  power,  not  of  strong  and 
self-sufficient  men,  but  of  the  Spirit  of  the  living  God.     We 
are  sure  that  this  and  this  alone  will  save  the  churches  of 
Japan  from  a  great  crisis,  and  that  it  must  come  upon  the 
missionaries  as  much  as  upon  the  native  churches. 

All  over  China  we  found  the  cry  for  this  blessing  on  the 
part  of  the  missionaries.  We  have  met  a  good  many  in 
Japan  of  the  same  spirit,  but  not  nearly  to  the  same  extent 
as  in  China.     Our  heart's  cry  for  this  land  is  a  deep  spint- 


Rii«ssr.-«iW«»*^ 


■mii 


558         LARCr.R  OUTLOOKS  ox  MfSSlONAR V  LANDS. 

,^1  movement,  a  aeepening   of  spiritual  life,  a  separation 
ual  ^««^^"^^  l^.       f„,      ,,onal  holiness  and  near- 

frnm  the   worul,  <i  beeK-iiig  ■<  i   i  „4.  ;+ 

.1  Ld  as  well  as  power  and  success.  Lord,  grant  it 
ZlTJ.^^rZ  and'the  Christians  oi  Japan.  We  are 
s:mehol  in,pressed  that  the,*  has  hecn  --l-a.^'^ 

'"''Ch:v:X'^d'at  home  that  the  only  t™e  source  of 

Ifulmistions  is  a  spiritual  movement  in  the  church   A 

:;S^r  hrrZrch  wm  p«>duce  ItseU  ab«>ad.    And  a 


THE  SITVATION  IN  JAPAN. 


559 


s. 

paration 
nd  near- 
grant  it 

We  are 
rely  little 
I.  There 
ies  whose 
eiy  clear, 
id  united 
c  opinion 
help  and 

the  mis- 

9tudy,  but 
lired. 

movement 
and  such  a 
■sin  South- 
^  the  older 
8  Mr.  Ishii, 
consecrated 
lers  we  met 
any  other 
scatter  the 

le  source  of 
e  church.  A 
)ad.     And  a 


worldly  church  will  have  like  cliildivii  in  heathen  lands.     It 
is  not  very  strange  that  when  many  of  the  Japanese  students 
came  to  America,  and  found  at  Harvard  and  Yale  a  cold  and 
indifferent  type  of  Christian  life,  and  a  very  broad  and 
liberal  theology,  they  went  back  to  Japan  to  tell  their  people 
that  they  had  been  practicing  too  rigid  a  religion,  and  that 
the  high-toned  Christianity  of  America's  best  circles  was  a 
very  much  freer  and  easier  style  of  thing.     Is  it  any  wonder 
that  the  Japanese  mind  became  saturated  with  such  ideas, 
and  a  fruitful  soil  was  prepared  for  the  rationalism,   the 
Unitarianism,   the  higher  criticism  and  the  indifferentism 
and  worldliness    that    h ave- alas  !- made    much    headway 
already  in  this  bright  new  land.     How  were  these  children 
to  know  the  difference  ? 

The  remedy  for  all  this  is  going  to  be  found  in  the  Holy 
Ghost.     We  rejoice  to  believe  that  a  strong,  united  and  un- 
compromising party  of  men  and  women  is  being  gathered 
by  the  Holy  Ghost  from  all  the  missionaries  in  Japan.     This 
is  the  spirit  of  Mr.  Buxton  and  his  workers  in  the  north- 
west, and  his  brave,  true  testimony  has  been  made  a  great 
bles^ng  already  to  the  missionaries  ad  well  as  to  the  natives. 
This,  we  trust,  will  ever  be  the  spirit  of  our  missionaries 
in  Japan'.    And  this  has  been  the  testimony  of  many  others 
whom,  perhaps,  it  would  be  invidious  to  name,  but  whom, 
we  believe,  God  would  unite  heart  to  heart  and  hand  in 
hand  to  seek  for  Japan  her  greatest  blessing— the  enduement 
of  power  from  on  high. 

2.  Along  with  this,  the  next  greatest  need  of  Japan  is  a 


.       •      +Vi«  fioKDel  to  the  \uaoc- 
bold  aggressive  n>ovo,nent  to  g.ve  the  Go«,.eI 
o„piedfleld»  and  the  neglected  cUsBe.  ^^^  ^  ^^ 

Ve.y  much  has  '--'  .*™ J\!,  had  sup,K,»ed.  We 
evangelism  in  ^='^7  '  ^^  to«ns  and  villages  in  all 
we,,  delighted  to  "-J™^°a  the  Ueaty  ports,  had 
parts  ol  the  empire,  a  d    ai  bey  ^^^^^^^    .^   ^^^^ 

been  occupied  successfully.    Thue  ^^^^  ;„ 

world  nearly  so  ->' -^t  f^  thout  nJonaries,  and 
Japan.  ''^^--J^"';:  Tlhvvest  coast,  that  we  hope 
it  is  to  some  ot  these,  on  tn^ 

immediately  ';«-':t::,::tt\t:^^^^     been  cached  at 
But  there  is  one  eiemoi  anomaly 

aU,  and  that  is  "«  ^iX  a  ^afnot  been  given  to 
amo»«— to  hfientT-the  samurai  class-and  the 
the.  poor,  but  to  t^e  gent  ^  „„evangeh.ed.  There  are 
common  people  are  yet  manuy  ^^  ^^^^ 

W-  ».«.-o»  yi»'.™«  ';^-;  :„^Cdo„r  to  the  betU,r 
have  been  reached  «°f  *"*  Xly  entered  it.  But  He  .s 
classes,  .f  *«*:;*  trllsionary  movement  which 
calUng  to-day,  «e  believe,  tor  a  Japanese 

wm  go  wider  and  'o--.-™  ^  teaching  them  to  go 
themselves  an  unspeakable  "'*»«»«  Christianity  and 

to  their  humbler  brethren  in  the  spirit 
lead  them  by  thousands  to  Jesu^  ^^^ty  i,  japan  (or 

3.  We  believe  there  is  a  special  opp  ,^_^^  ^^ 

'"^  "'^^''%'e' :::::  "rirstVe  number  is  Umil.^ 


MMB 


JL 


THE  SI  TV  ATI  OX  IS'  J- 1  PAN. 


56T 


i  vmoc- 

ri-easive- 
d.  We 
es  in  all 
•rts,  had 
in  the 
even  in 
ries,  and 
we  hope 

Bached  at 
anomaly 

I  given  to 
-and   the 
There  are 
V  of  these 
the  better 
But  He  is 
lent  which 
r  Japanese 
them  to  go 
,tianity  and 

II  Japan  for 
srlandBiich 
r  is  limited, 
ssionaries  in. 


India  or  China  would  shout  for  joy  if  they  could  conunand 
them.  We  believe  God  is  going  to  raise  up  and  ])repare  a 
great  many  more,  and  send  them  out  by  hundreds  and  thou- 
sands as  the  future  evangelists  of  Japan.  We  trust  our  own 
work  in  Japan  may  be  able  very  largely  to  utilize  and  em- 
ploy these  laborers.  And  it  is  our  prayer  that  the  work  of 
Mr.  Ishii  may  become  largely  a  missionary  work,  and  may 
train  and  send  forth  large  numbers,  not  only  of  his  own  boys, 
but  of  others,  baptized  with  his  own  spirit,  to  preach  the 
Gospel  in  the  power  of  the  Holy  Ghost  in  all  the  unoccupied 
regions  of  Japan. 

4.  And  wo  believe  that  God  is  calling  His  people  in  Japan 
to  simpler  methods  cvn.d  lives  of  humbler,  holier  separation 
from  the  world.  Our  herrts  are  too  full  of  love  to  our  dear 
brethren  r.broad,  and  wc>  b:  ve  too  deep  an  appreciation  of 
their  trials,  iiardship,:;  r.nd  unsellish  purposes,  to  criticize 
their  methocis  of  li\  ing.  Bui,  we  boliove  tlmt  the  fact  that 
there  have  been  inch  criticisms,  hof-h  from  the  natives  and 
from  other  novices,  -ho  Jd  mc.kc>  uo  all  wilhng  to  learn  any 
lessons  God  has  for  ns,  and  to  set  such  an  example  of  sim- 
plicity, economy  and  separation  irom  the  world  as  will  make 
the  line  of  demarcation  abroad  as  sharp  as  it  ought  to  be  at 
home  between  the  humble  follow  :r  of  Jesus  and  the  fashion- 
able friend  of  the  world. 

We  have  already  said  that  the  t;ost  of  living  in  Japan  is 
much  higher  than  in  most  other  mission  fields,  and  we  are 
wiUing  to  concede  all  that  is  reasonable  and  necessary  for 
comfortable  and  healthful  homes,  foreign  food,  winter  fires 


1 


WBKKtmHmmmmm 


r-*!^ 


.  .  „llin..  Eveiv  true  mtasionaiy  should  to  kept 
and  extra  traveUing.  ''^^'',  ,,  .  „„  K„t  eleaant  man- 
f  ran.  all  need  or  c:are  about  these  ""»«;  J"'  '^^  ^„,,,, 

lonj!  summer  vacations,  ana  boi,. 

unnecessary.  j^^^g  „(  mission- 

We  have  no  doubt  ^at  'here  a.  j,,  temptations 

aries  he..,  a.  elsewhere  and  p«^^^^^        ^    ^^^^  ^^ 

a„a  the  freer  social  We  o£tta-^^^^^  ^^„,^„,,i„„ 

^„,e  farther  across  ">«  Ch..st,a„  ^^^  ^^  ^  ^^^^^  .„ 

^''""r'ratror  Xrinate'cHticisms,  but  in  the 
sweeping  chaiges  or  m  ^^^.  •  ^  example  of  the  niea 

„^est.  consisi^nt  -^™— Hrfntatlnd  to  live  a 

,„d  women  whorn  God  h-.™.  brethren  and  before  the 
true  missionary  Me  ''f'°'"  '".,,,„  j,i,,„  to  prove  to  the 

heathen.    We  '*'-'»  "'^V^f  "^V^^t    and,  at  the  same 

.orld  that  ^«*;"t:,r^^ar"'ia  Jalpan  asweUas 
ttae.  econom^a^woiU  «>.n^ca    ^^^^^^  ^^  ^^^  ^^ 

i„  India  or  China^    A  ^_  ^^^^  ^.^^^  „^t,,. 

Boards  said  to  us,  only  a  ^^^  ^^^^^ 

preachers  could  be  sustained  fo    the  amou^  ^.^^ 

Uives  asasalary,and  th  t^    --;^^^^^^^^  ^^^  ^^ 
lUm  whether  he  ought  not  oie^^^^^^^^  ^^^^^^^^^  ^_^^  ,„^.. 

could  not  be  done  by  the^gh^  ^_^^  ^^^^^  ^_^^ 

eigner.  ^«f;,-"^X  "^Wch  botU  classes  can  be  em- 
method  should  <«  ^ "'""^^  *"  ^thout  the  sacrifice  of 
ployed,  and  yet  the  ut-^  — ^^^         .^         u,,ble  is 


THE  srrU AT/ON  IN  JAPAN. 


563 


s. 

1  be  kept 
int  man- 
is  courts, 
urely  are 

:  inission- 
mptations 
1  have  led 
marcation 
e  found  in 
)ut  in  the 
of  the  men 
d  to  live  a 
before  the 
»rove  to  the 
;  the  Bame 
a  as  well  as 
one  of  the 
sight  native 
lich  he  alone 
lestion  with 
:  more  good 
the  one  for- 
ut  that  some 
8  can  be  em- 
le  sacrifice  of 
practicable  is 
Let  us  pray 


that  their  experiment  maybe  so  successful  that  the  result 
will  be  full  of  encouragement  for  the  future  work  of  foreign 

laborers  in  Japan. 

What  is  the  prospect  of  the  evangehzation  of  Japan?  It 
seems  brighter  than  that  of  any  other  foreign  country.  With 
tact  and  wisdom  almost  every  part  of  the  interior  can  now 
be  reached.     The  truths  of  Chiistianity  are  fairly  understood 
by  the  reading  portion  of  the  nation.    The  sentiment  of  the 
people  is  not  so  anti-Christian  as  it  is  anti-foreign.     A  native 
Christianity  is  fairly  popular.     Buddhism,  Shintooism  and 
the  ancient  faiths  have  lost  much  of  thoir  power.     There  is 
none  of  the  Caste  difficulty  we  meet  in  India.    There  is  none 
of  the  desperate  antagonism  we  find  in  China.    There  is  a 
fair  disposition  to  listen  to  the  truth  almost  everywhere. 
Converts  are  much  more  quickly  won  than  in  all  the  other 
fields     Much  can  be  done  through  an  interpreter  while  the 
language    is  being  acquired ;  and  yet  we  would  advise  all 
missionaries  to  learn  it  and  use  it  as  soon  as  possible.    Na- 
tive  workers  can  be  obtained  more  easily  than  in  any  other 
field     At  present  our  advice  would  be  to  send  comparatively 
few  new  foreigners,  and  only  those  of  the  very  highest  class, 
and  ever  to  utilize  native  workers  as  much  as  possible,  and 
by  judicious  oversight  scatter  them  widely  through  the  yet 
unoccupied  districts  of  the  land. 

We  believe  Japan  will  be  evangeUzed  before  the  end  of 
the  century,  and  that  a  blessed  missionary  movement  ^ill  go 
forth  from  its  people,  which  God  will  use  to  reach  the  mil- 
lions of  Corea,  and  the  vaster  myriads  even  of  interior  China 
with  the  light  of  the  Gospel. 


M 


wmm'^ 


5^4 


BEAUTIVUI.  JAPAN- 
All  her  1.1.-.  ar«  »J^^^!°^m  t,„  chlKlron  ..n  ».-. 

■^Blie  «o»ia  r«ln  °"*"'''f  *,Ve,briBl>»«t«"l'»" 

.    „„.v  vhat  a  charm  there  linger* 
Land  of  wondrous  ^;*"^y;;;;*Jower  and  tro.  ! 

Over  every  landscain-,  ^^^'^       ^  ^^on  thte 
But .  brlsbt^r  «^-y  - t^xnt^Jn,  o^thy  Inlan.l  Sea. 

Tl.  ^n  thy  cloud-capped  moun  ^^^ 

•Tis  ine  Father's  «^^Z^Xleemine  Love  ; 

,TiB  the  blessej^^to;y^«4«^^^^^^^^^  wfavenly  Bunri- ; 
^£etCn  ^e%r;ehfnioK  fro.  ahove. 

At  the  gates  of  Asia,  ^^-ZVl^7J^oZ^^-'^ 

God  has  Beth^X tS  and  Corea's  mUlions 
China's  teeming  «^y'  ff^;^  ^o  the  Bon  of  Man. 

Wait  for  her  to  1««^*{  *f  J^J^  ^^  claim  thy  calling, 
Rise  to  meet  t^^ '"'«tn;Sing  on  the  van ; 

,Mid  Mlllenn  al  "^^^^  Jthe^Coming  Kingdom, 
First  to  -"^t^h  the  Bunrise  o^  ^^^^ , 

Islands  of  the  Morning,  oe" 


XXK 


HOME    COMING. 


THE  voyage  across  i\w  Pacific  lasted  nineteen  days,  and 
was  broken  almost  niidw..y  by  a  short'  stay  at  Hono- 
Inlu,  in  the  Sandwich  Islands.  Oni-  stoainship  was  the 
"Oceanic"  of  the  Oriental  and  Occidental  Line,  San  Francisco. 
She  is  fairly  comfortable,  but  by  no  means  a  quick  boat,  and 
our  greatest  speed  only  slightly  exceeded  three  hundred  miles 
ji  day.  She  was  the  first  of  the  o(u^an  racers  of  the  White  Star 
Line,  but  her  engines  have  been  greatly  reduced  in  power 
And  she  is  now  chiefly  a  cargo  boat. 

The  ships  of  this  line  are  net  coini)arable  with  the  splen- 
<lid  ocean  queens  of  the  Empress  Line,  and  we  should  cer- 
tainly advise  all  our  fiiends  bound  for  th«^  Orient  to  take  the 
Canadian  Line,  if  possible.     They  make  the  trip  in  about  a 
week  less  than  the  San  Francisco  boats,  and  all  the  arrange- 
ments are  in » measurably  supiirior.     We  had  about  fifty  pas- 
sengers on  bouid,  including  seven  or  eight  Japanese  gentle- 
men.   The  weather  was    only  moderate,   and    the  Pacific 
Ocean  did  not  maintain  its  reputation  for  pacific  qualities, 
l)ut  tossed  and  squalled  a  little  worse  than  we  have  usually 
.seen  in  the  Atlantic,  especially  in  summer,  but  we  had  almost 

sot  used  to  the  sea,  in  a  journey,  nearly  half  of  which  was 

565 


5****  1  tVi..  leisure  f()r  oiir 

highest.  Throe  Sabbath,  ^"^'^^fj^.^^.^o..  «<rvteo  until 
tife  m.t,  no  effort  wa,  "!«'«  "^  ^^ ,;,  J,  to  permit  u«  to 
the  evening,  wl>en  we  ^'J'L,  hu*  "o  more  than  two 
gather  a  little  company  m  the  saloo  ,  ^^  ^^^  ^^„^„^ 

"or  three  ot  the  t»-"«""  *  nW  ot  ^^  J'>P»-"  ""  '""'• 
and  the  audience  oons.rted  ma.nly  ,.--i^-ft. 


HONOLULU. 


.he.econd.ab,«thw.chie«y^;;n.^ 

8pon«e  to  our  earneet  apl«".  '  ,  ^^  g„t  m  used, 

I  the  Sunday  cricket  «'''"J;'>";Xbbath  in  this  way,  that 
J  San  Francisco,  t»  speudmg  the  ^  ^^  ^^^_^  _^^^^^^^^^ 

h«  did  not  see  any  harm  u.^^^^^  ^^^  ^,,^  ^„^„,,  ,„d  th. 
in  the  long  story  oi  vii«  » 


jfBseaaSKt'S 


for  «mr 

[w  very 
and  oil 
[;o  until 
it  UH  to 
tian  two 
ofticers, 
n  board. 


lin,  purser 
mg  cricket 
\xe  evening 

,  and  in  re- 
ted  to  give 
got  BO  vised, 
is  way,  that 
ther  chapter 
liah  and  thft 


HOME  COMING. 


567 


Americans  abroad,  and  as  we  looked  ut  that  little  <N„npan>r 
of  Japanese  devoutly  worshipping  God  in  the  midst  of 
American  ungodliness,  we  thought  the  day  might  indeed 
come  wheu  we  should  see  companies  of  Japanese  and  Chinese 
missionaries  coming  to  America  to  preach  the  Gospel  to  the 
heathen  of  this  land. 

Our  stay  at  Honolulu  was  very  pleasant.  The  day  w  is 
charming,  and  the  climate  of  the  islands  is,  indeed,  superb 
It  IS,  probably,  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  thermometer 
ranges  from  seventy  to  eighty  most  of  the  year.  It  is  never 
cold  and  it  is  never  disagreeably  warm.  The  trade  winds 
continually  blow  across  the  islands,  and  maintain  a  perpetual 
breeze  which  is  most  refreshing.  The  vegetation  is  tropical 
and  luxuriant,  very  much  likt.  Hong  Kong,  and  almost  as 
rich  as  Singapore. 

We  took  a  drive  to  the  mountain  behind  the  town,  and 
looked  over  the  brilliant  panorama  of  valley,  hill  and  shoiv 
The  picture  was  a  very  prett>  one.  At  our  feet  the  city  lay 
embowered  in  palm  groves  ;  and,  just  beyond,  the  water  was 
gently  breaking  over  the  coral  reef  which  surrounds  the 
island,  and  which  looked  like  a  beautiful  necklace  of  dia- 
monds, while  the  lagoon  between  the  reef  and  the  shore  was 
the  richest  green  ;  and,  beyond,  the  waters  of  the  grtjat 
Pacific  sparkled  in  the  glorious  sunshine  in  every  tint,  from 
the  deepest  blue  to  purple  and  crimson,  at  the  far-off  horizon 
Une  where  the  ocean  met  the  sky,  and  the  exquisite  bhie  of 
the  glowing  firmament  was  fretted  and  chased  with  many- 
colored  clouds. 


:;68      i..4KaKK  o,:Ti.onh-s  o,v  MissroN.iK-yrAKDS 

Two  imndi-ed  miles  »outh  of  Honoluh.,  on  »"»«'«  *^- 
,a„d,  is  the  g.anae,t  volcano  in  the  ««*V  — J  ^^ 
,«,.ty  stopped  off  to  visit  it.  .ml  we  heavd  »»>«  "-' ^™ 
descriptions  of  its  majesty  and  gx^ndem-  I*  ^.  "^; 
lake  of  «.e,  and  its  h.rid  light  illummates  the n.ght  with  tei 

"""  We  found  the  islands  agitated  alK>ut  the  question  of  an_ 
nexation  to  the  United  States.    We  had  the  opportunity  of 
sp^ng  with  some  of  the  leading  >.sidents  on  the  govern- 
mS  side,  and  we  have  also  met  a  nmnher  of  members  o^ 
he  opposition  party.    We  believe  the  £o.^.gn  .-esidents  are 
rgl   in  favor  of  annexation,  but  there  is  a  considerable 
plrty  even  of  these,  who  are  opposed  to  it,  and  neariy  aUthe 
C' planters  rega.-d  it  as  likely  to  p.-ove  fatal  to  the  bus.^ 
,et!  of  the  islands,  as  it  will  exclude  the  Japanese  a^d 
"  htoese  laborer  on  whom  they  enth-ely  depend  for  the  cult.- 
ta^  of  the  plantations.    We  hav.  no  doubt  that  annexa- 
Z  under  the  Geary  law.  which  ^^'^^-^^^^^'^ l^^^. 
tion  would  he  fatal  to  the  prosperity  of  the  islands ;  but  .£ 
that' outrageous  act  we,-e  abolished,  and  the  restncfon  upon 
t  e  in«,mh,g  of  the  Japanese  and  Chinese  removed  we  be- 
:         would  be  to  the  interest  of  the  islands  to  ,o.n    he 
rmerican  republic,  and  we  ar.  sure  it  would  g,ve  t^  the 
t  "ited  States  an  influence  in  the  East  wh.cb  would  be  of 
immense  advantage.  j  +     „„ 

It  is  impossible  for  oxxe  who  has  not  gone  abroad  to  ap- 
preciate the  value  to  Great  Britain  of  her  colonial  posses- 
n      A  chain  of    miUtary  stations  hterally    girdles  the 


MWNi 


►ther  is- 
l  of  our 
thrilliug 
erally,  a 
mth  ter- 

>n  of  an- 
bunity  of 
3  govem- 
mbers  of 
ients  are 
isiderable 
rly  all  the 

the  busi- 
mese  and 

the  culti- 
t  annexa- 

immigra- 
ds ;  but  if 
3tiou  upon 
ed,  we  be- 
o  join  the 
ive  to  the 
ould  be  of 

•oad  to  ap- 
lial  posses- 
girdles  the 


world,  and  gives  to  Great  Britain  a  connnanding  influence 
among  the  Oriental  nations  which  can  scarcely  be  exagger- 
ated, and  which  to  a  great  extent  constitutes  the  glory  of  the 
British  Empire.  The  American  abroad  is  constantly  made 
conscious  of  the  absence  of  all  these  on  the  part  of  his  own 
country,  and  the  opportunity  afforded  in  the  Sandwich  Isl- 
ands, at  present,  for  the  United  States  to  hold  the  key  to  the 
Pacific  Ocean  is  one  that  ought  not  lightly  to  be  thrown  away. 
We  found  the  desire  for  annexation  on  the  part  of  the  Amer- 
ican people  very  intense,  and  the  feeling  of  disappointment 
at  the  coolness  with  which  the  proposal  was  received  at 
home  is  very  strong  and  painful. 

We  believe  the  American  government  is  giavely  weigh- 
ing the  whole  situation,  and  we  have  reason  to  hope  that 
they  will  act  with  fairness  and  wisdom.  No  words  can  too 
strongly  express  the  outrageous  excesses  of  the  late  dynasty, 
and  the  thoroughly  corrupt  queen  who  was  dei)osed  last 
January  through  the  storm  aroused  by  her  own  despotic  and 
reckless  course. 

All  the  islands  put  together,  however,  do  not  amount  to 
very  much,  numerically  at  least.  The  whole  population  does 
not  reach  to  100,000,  and  as  one  looks  over  the  Blue  Book 
there  seem  to  be  almost  as  many  officials  as  there  are  citizens. 
The  resources  of  the  islands  are,  however,  considerable. 
Sugar  is  the  principal  product,  and  \^Y^\or  to  the  recent  tariff 
system,  immense  fortunes  were  made  by  the  planters. 

The  principal  value  of  this  little  country  is  its  strategic 
position  as  the  key  to  the  great  Pacific  Ocean,  and  the  island 


MMM 


0 


■ 


5^0         ,^,C,R  OUTLOOKS  W  M,SSrONARy  LANOS. 

«o,M     To  Great  Britain  it  woulA  be  a  point  of  vast  import^ 

::.  and  i,  She  «et.  the  "P.— ^:  ^X^  tZ\^ 
will  not  be  slow  to  improve  it     To  th«  '••'^«";  ^^^^^ 

paradise,  and  if  ^"'> ^:;^];^Z^,^Z^^^  -^ 
Mmy  air  and  gaze  on  glorious  veg  j  j 

tain  a  ve.7  pleasant  existence  on  «-«  "J^";^,  ^^ 

even  Honolulu  soon  grew  tiresome  to  ^^'^^^J^l^    l^, 

when  the  hour  came  to  take  o„r  ^ave  ^^^^^^^^s 

The  most  ,,leasant  nrcdent  ot  «";^?'  ^7  „  b„^m 

hospitality  of  the  hind  "—»-"-  irhJTand  took  us 
who  received  us  most  c.n-d,ally  *-^h«u  home 

"T  ""^^S:irJ^— .:.    Thereis'als„ag«,d 
work  among  the  Chinese  oi  n  ^^  ^^^^ 

-^  among  tHe  f  ;-^^^^^^^^^^ 

'Ifnrit::'^^^^^^^^^^  -more   thriUing   story   oC 

extmct.     Iherc  is  ^^^     evangehzatiou 

modern  missions  than  the  account 

of  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  the  laboi.  of  th. 
can  missionaries.  ^nlendid  mce,  and  tlie 

These  islande,.  ~f  ::^'„  ^j':; physical'  develop- 
"^i:""Jn  a,:    tT^antic  Itm^.  and  the  women 
r:  Of  g1:  si..    It  is  said  that  the  e..,y  .«.ns  met  by 

'•'^  t:rrarH::^'::i:":rmad: ..  st.. 

^r.A  thnir  morals  are  simply  mdebcnbaoie.  j 

^;::u,"pe.>pK  and  when  the  time  came  for  onr 


Lniport- 
em,  she 
an  ideal 
breathe 
t  main- 
33.  But 
ere  glad 

voyage, 
ourteous 
in  Board 
I  took  us 
excellent 
so  a  good 
}  are  fast 
•obably  bo 

story  of 
igelization 
st  Ameri- 

e,  and  the 
i\  develtip- 
le  women, 
ms  met  by 
;ht,  and  we 
,  the  state- 
ler  a  coarse 
They  are  a 
me  for  oiir 


> 
< 

m 

z 
c 
m 


> 

H 

m 

? 

r 
Z 


I 
o 
z 
o 
r 
t: 


HOME  COM  INC. 


571 


steamer  to  leave,  the  send-ott"  was  characteristic.  The 
wharf  was  crowded  with  hundreds  of  ]»eople,  and  everything 
had  a  gala  appearance. 

A  band  of  music  was  playing  the  liveliest  airs,  and 
every  one  who  came  on  board  was  garlanded  with  the  most 
gorgeous  wreaths  of  flowers,  and  amid  music  and  brightness 
we  were  sped  on  our  journey  by  these  genial  and  hospitable 
people.  It  seemed  as  if  their  heart  was  turning  homeward, 
and  they  were  caUing  to  their  mother-land  to  receive  them 
and  recognize  them  as  her  children.  Swarms  of  naked  boys 
followed  in  the  wake  of  our  ship  as  we  left  the  harbor,  diving 
for  pennies  like  the  little  African  urchins  that  we  had  seen 
at  Aden.  At  length  we  were  off  again,  and  before  sunset 
the  bold  heights  of  Diamond  Head  had  disappeared  beyond 
the  horizon,  and  the  blue  waters  of  the  Pactific  Ocean  were 
again  surrounding  us  on  every  side. 

Eight  days  more  brought  us  to  the  Golden  Gate,  and  our 
hearts  were  strangely  moved  as  we  gazed  on  the  Seal  Rocks 
at  the  entrance  of  the  harbor,  and  at  length  rounded  the  pro- 
montory and  saw  just  before  us,  lying  in  a  beautiful  basin, 
the  teriaced  streets  of  San  Francisco. 

We  had  just  an  hour  to  catch  the  eastern-bound  train, 
but  again  the  kind  Providence  of  God  assisted  us,  and  as  the 
sun  went  down  we  found  ourselves  sweeping  homeward 
through  the  Sacramento  Valley,  while  that  beautiful  Ameri- 
can sunset  seemed  like  a  smile  of  welcome.  And  as  we  rode 
for  six  days  aero?  ■!  the  mighty  continent  we  wondered  how 
the  world  had  done  so  long  without  America. 


L 


■     w«  brok.  o,u-  journey  tor  an  hour  or  two,  in  Chicago  to 
T     1  UM,-  Moody  and  other  friends  to  arrange  fo.  the 
meet  with  Mi  .  Moooy  Ji  t  A„„„flt  inth    We  spent 

e„n,ing  International  Convenfon  o£  ^^^^'^^  J,  „„ 
the  Sabbath  in  Canada,  m  our  od  "^■"'''f  "!>",„  ,,^„d, 
.he  following  Monday  we  ':-^:^^^^^Z.  them 

;:=:T;:drr:r^^^^^^^^ 

'"'' UZtr::^':^  ...  that  we  haveheen  just  two 

— "-n  nf\S'r:  rro-Th^dr- 

,„.e„  thousand  nnle.  of  winch  mo  ^^  ^^.^ 

l«.n  on  seas  and  ^'"''''"'•''^^'J^^,^  ,,tffe„„t  vessels  ■,  have 
boani,  and  a  ,»»senger  .m  t^o"*^  ^^  „,;     j^  ^Hh 

passed  through  fourteen  great  "''*'°"; J" 'J^^^j  fifteen 

seas  and  oceans  ;  have  crossea  n    ,v  ,  ^„ 

three  hundred  and  «=;'>•  <';/;:::;;™  u^^o  the  North 
through  almost  eve,-,-  .hmate,  '™'  "^  j^  ,„i,3i„„. 

Temperate  zone  and  ''•^ '""^jf^^f^L  representing  a 
,,es  and  P--~f^j;t  :,::aand  flfty'milUons,  or 
population  o£  moie  tj-""  *■' ^  ^^  i„  „u  these  changing 
one-half  the  populafon  of  '^  fob-  J^  ^  „,. 

scenes  and  circumstances,  '■"'"";  ""^^^.^  „,  even  to 
permitted  us  to  'o-. ->;;-*::l"w:Lnot  thank 
miss  a  single  -— ,^^^-  ™^  ^l,  ,„,,  not  only  over 
rb::tfrt:!"ends  and  precious  interests  that 
were  left  in  His  hands  in  tho  homeland. 


HOME  COM  IXC, 


573 


go,  to 
)r  the 
spont 
md  on 
hands 
I  them 
e  than 

st  two 
thirty- 
is  have 
mship- 
i ;  have 
}d  with 
I  fifteen 
ude  and 
ve  been 
le  North 
mission- 
enting  a 
Uions,  or 
changing 
ed  us  or 
•  even  to 
lot  thank 
only  over 
i-ests  that 


OIj,  may  Hn  lit'li»  us  both  toguthor  to  )>r«'ss  on  to  Ktill 
greater  things  for  this  lost  world,  wliich  He  h;is  porinitted 
US  to  see  only  that  we  nught  make  these  needs  nu»re  real  to 
the  hearts  of  His  people  at  home,  and  help  them  mo  o  faith- 
fully to  fulfill  their  sacred  trust  for  its  evangelization  and  for 
the  hasting  of  that  glorious  hour  when  this  wonderful  and 
beautiful  world  shall  be  redeemed  from  the  curse  that  rests 
upon  it,  and  realize  the  glorious  i)urpose  for  which  it  was 
created  and  redeemed  ! 

One  of  the  strangest  incidents  of  our  journey  is  the  gain 
oi  a  day  in  the  circuit  of  the  world.  In  our  (")ri«nital  diary 
we  reached  home  on  Tuesday,  but  by  the  Western  Calendar 
it  was  only  Monday.  Somewhere  out  on  the  Pacific  Ocean 
we  had  to  drop  a  day.  Wo  had  overtaken  the  sun  and 
gained  a  day,  and  so  wo  had  two  Thursdays  in  one  week.  It 
is  quite  an  unusual  thing  for  us,  in  our  busy  life,  to  have  a 
day  to  spare,  but  we  trust  we  shall  henceforth  be  found  not 
behind  time,  but  at  least  a  day  in  advance.  It  won't  hurt 
our  self-importance  as  Americans  to  remember  that  our 
friends  in  China  and  Japan,  that  we  think  so  slow,  are 
nearly  a  day  ahead  of  us  in  the  march  of  Time,  and  while  it 
ib  night  here  it  is  morning  there. 

We  wish  the  Christians  of  America  o<juld  realize  how 
very  small  a  portion  of  the  world  lies  within  the  circumfer- 
ence of  their  little  circle. 

Beloved,  let  us  enlarge  oui-  vision  ;  let  us  see  this  great 
world  as  God  sees  it ;  and  in  the  arms  of  our  intelligent  faith 
and  His  infinite  love,  let  us  claim  it  all  for  Him. 


574 


LARGER  Ol'TLOOKS  O.^f  MrSSIONARV  LANDS. 

Brothers,  let  ub  ntretoh  our  lieart-etrJngH. 

Wide  as  human  woe ; 
All  around  thli  world  of  sorrow 

liOt  our  blessing  go. 
Dver  every  land  and  nation 

B*  His  flag  unfurled ; 
Send  the  (Joepel  quickly,  widely, 

All  around  the  world. 


._,j.m.LUi'i" 


XXXI. 


THE  MISSIONARY  OUTLOOK. 


HOW  does  the  world  appear  to  one  who  has  endeavored 
to  look  at  it  with  the  Master's  eyes,  and  in  the  larg- 
est vision  of  faith  and  hope  ? 
Well,  it  certainly  looks  very  dark,  and  if  we  were  work- 
ing for  its  salvation  under  the  existing  agencies,  we  should 
say,  very  hopeless. 

There  is  no  part  of  it  which  looks  more  hopeless  than 
what  we  call  Christian  lands.  After  centuries  of  pi-eaching 
and  teaching,  America  and  England  are  farther  from  a 
spiritual  millennium  than  they  have  been  for  a  century. 

WHAT  HAS   BERN   ACCOMHLISHKD  ? 

Doubtless  very  much.  In  one  hundred  years  it  has  been 
estimated  that  perhaps  as  many  as  ten  millions  of  souls  in 
heathen  lands  have  come  under  the  influence  of  the  gospel, 
and  nearly  half  that  number  have  perhaps  been  saved. 

The  most  important  centres  in  India,  China,  Japan, 
Burmah,  Siam  and  Polynesia  have  been  occupied,  and  many 
of  the  most  difficult  and  remote  regions  of  Central  Africa 
have  become  missionary  centres. 

.575 


t 


An  arn.v  of  seven  thoum.nrt  foroiK..  intaio.mri.^  prfl" 
the  «*r,  "na  ton,  tho„»a„a  native  a,..U„t«  a„.  wo*,n. 

""Vh™iu.a,o»  of  Cluist  give  annually  *>.. ;-""-  'W» 

work  :,:.!  nearly  two  hundn„l  »o..,ietie,  a.e  w,.Un„  to  evan- 

"""  Thtir:!.  in.ee<i,  if  we  ,.„,e,„l.e,-  the  ,on,.ition  of 

tHi„r«:tone  huna,..  --X:":.':--"  «' ^^ 
«„t  n>i«sionarie.,  «">"'  ""'^^  ;„  beneficence. 

■   aeln  which  have  marked  the  progress  of  the  century,  the 
hS^rP  evidential  and  Pentecostal  story  of  Mada^scar, 
Tahiti  Fil  the  New  Hebrides,  and  the  Sandw.ch  Islands ;  o 
M^aU    Uvingston,  McKay  and  McCanU  the  story  of  the 
Zlt^.  trmger  the  Con«o,  and  the  African  Lake  m.s. 
t^s    of  the  Telegus,  the  Tamils,  and  Northern    „d.a ;  of 
Zmah  and  Siam;ot  Morrison,  Medhurst,  and  the  Chma 
M™d  Mission  ;  and  last  of  all,  the  marvelous  transformation 
^lanan  in  a  single  generation ;  truly  it  may  be  weU  6a,d 
IX'e  hav:  be'en  no  fa.ts  since  apostolic  times  so  stert- 

ter  of  the  nineteenth  centuiy. 

WHAT  YET  UKMAIN8? 

And  yet,  when  we  look  at  the  other  side  of  the  picture, 
tv,«rfi  is  nothing  on  earth  80  dark.  ,  .  « 

*    MohammeLnism  has  increased  more  than  tl.nty  md- 


s  girdleff 
worlnnj; 

It  for  this 
;  to  evan- 

ulition  of 
ne  of  the 
on  of  $60 
iticence. 
I  incidentfl 
Qiury,  the 
idagascar, 
slands ;  of 
»ry  of  the 
Lake  mis- 
i  India ;  of 
the  China 
sformation 
0  well  said 
es  so  start- 
)nary  cliap- 


tht  picture, 
thirty  mU- 


THF.  A/ISSIO.y/tJ^y  orTLOOK. 


bll 


lions  in  one  hundred  years,  wl.ile  it  i.  doubtful  if  C  hr.st.an.ty 
has  won  one  thouHand  souls  from  itn  ranks  in  all  tins  period. 
Heathenism  has  gained  two  hundred  n.ilHons  m  the  cen- 
tury while  Christianity  has  won  ten  millions  from  its  ranks 
Christian  lands  have  grown  in  wealth  and  power,  hut 
have  made  ecpial  progress  in  wickedness  and  worWliness  ;  so 
that  to-day  the  most  fearful  examples  of  immorality  and 
vice  in  heathen  lands,  and  the  most  powerful  obstacles  to  the 
progress  of  missions  are  to  be  found  in  the  lives  and  influ- 
ence of  our  own  people  in  these  countries. 

Notwithstanding  the  progress  of  modern  missions  to 
day,  the  destitution  of  the  best  evangelized  foreign  lands  is 
appalling     Even  India  has  hundreds  of  thousand,  of  villages 
that  have  never  heard  the  gospel.    The  interior  provinces  of 
China  are  only  yet  manned  by  little  bands  of  half  a  dozei. 

lone  workers.  .         . 

Two  vast  provinces  in  China  hav-  no  missionaries  what- 

^""^^hil  "t,  Anam,  Nepaul,  Bhotan,  the  PhiUppine  Islands, 
most ',   Borneo  and  New  r:  linea  are  in  utter  darkness. 

The  vast  Soudan,  with  its  90,000,00.)  of  people,  is  only 
fringed  with  less  than  a  score  of  missionaries,  and  thousands 
of  tribes  throughout  Central  Africa  have  never  seen  the  face 
of  a  white  man,  or  heard  of  Christ. 

We  have  just  passed  through  lands  which  contain  a 
population  of  '750,0(K),000  of  heathen  souls,  and  no  language 
can  describe  the  immensity  of  the  destitution  and   the  con- 


jtEStJ'e 


wmmtm 


578         l.^^^^^  OUTLOOKS  ON  MrSSrONARY  LANDS. 

f  +hP  utter  vvreck  of  this  falleu  world   which 
sciousness  of  the  utiei   xmc^-"^ 

everywhere  oppresses  one. 

A  hundr'^d  thousand  souls  a  day 
Are  passing,  one  by  one,  away 

la  Christless  guilt  and  gloom  ; 
Without  one  ray  of  hope  or  light, 
In  darkness  deep  as  endless  njght, 

They're  pabslng  to  their  doom. 

We  should  certainly  count  upon  centuries  if  we  were 
.oinrfoxt-ith  the  hope  of  bringing  all  men  to  recede  the 
fo'Tjesus  as  their  Saviour  and  King,  and  we  should  be  very 
strongly  tempted  to  begin  with  the  rising  generation,  and 
through  the  cLdren  prepare  for  influencmg  future  genera- 

"^  ::redtational  missions  as  the  natural  audlo^- 

..  nf  a  belief  in  the  final  conversion  o£  aU  the 

"^'  rth-^l!    the    chn,.h   and  the  establishment  o£   a 

■        B"*  "«/"  "!*  andit  we  are  to  do  effective  work,  we 
rl^lXd—  and  work  in  harmony  with  the  plan 

of  our  great  Leader. 

GOD'B  PLAN  FOR  I^HK  WORLD'S  KVANGELIZATION. 

human  race  under  the  f^^^   J  ^y  ^he  tribes  of 


7DS. 

irld  which 


THE  MISSIONARy  OUTLOOK. 


579 


if  we  were 
( receive  the 
ould  be  very 
3ration,  and 
bure  genera- 

ral  and  logi- 
a  of  all  the 
hment  of   a 

ptural  stand- 
ve  work,  we 
vith  the  plan 

A.TION. 

of  the  whole 
ut  rather  the 
1  the  tribes  of 
he  nations,  of 


the  company  of  Christ's  elect  so  speedily  that  the  Lord's 
coming  may  be  immediately  hastened,  and  the  promised 
kingdom  brought  in  which  will  accomplish  for  the  world 
in  a  single  generation  more  than  all  our  work  could  do  in  a 
hundred  centuries. 

If  this  be  the  true  standpoint  of  missions,  we  are  not 
called  to  build  up  great  educational  institutions,  and  aim 
slowly  to  spread  in  the  minds  of  heath  n  peoples  the  princi- 
ples of  Christianity,  and  lead  them  gradually  up  to  the  Gos- 
pel. But  our  business  is  to  strike  once  for  the  present  gener- 
ation of  men  and  women  in  whom  God's  Holy  Spirit  has  al- 
ready been  preparing  by  His  secret  touch  for  the  reception  of 

the  Gospel. 

Thoughtful  missionaries  tell  us  that  there  are  such  people 

to  be  found  among  all  heathen  nations ;  men  and  women  like 
Cornelius,  who  are  "devoutly  seeking  God  and  feeling  after 
Him,  if  haply  they  might  find  Him,"  and  when  the  Gospel 
comes  they  recognize  it  as  the  voice  of  the  unknown  God 
whom  they  ignorantly  worshipped. 

We  know  not  the  number  that  shall  compose  "the  full- 
ness of  the  Gentiles,"  but  we  know  God  has  a  people  among 
all  nations,  and  that  He  is  gathering  out  the  first  fruits  in 
this  dispensation  :  and  when  the  Master  comes  the  full  har- 
vest will  be  gathered  in,  and  the  great  Feast  of  Tabernacles 
will  celebrate  the  glorious  end  through  the  happy  millennial 
world. 

THE  SCRIPTURAL  PLAN. 

That  this  is  the  true  Scriptural  conception  of  missions, 


J 


,80      ...--  ovr,.oo.s  OS-  M,ss,on.<.v  .as.. 

'"  *:r:f  t"  «  v«  the  ae,.ne.  ..  U.e  out  ot 

them  a  peovlo  to  «*-  "^™';;         .,  j„,  ^^e  .pedal  purpose  ot 
This  is  just  a  Ms>t,  am  j^  ^  temporary 

taking  out  o£  «'-' ^tu «    "ea -"*  the  Apostle  Paul 
aispensation.    It  -  '"^J^in  Komans,  chapters  ix  to 

expresses  '" J-^-t^l^eL  in  part  has  happene.!  unto 
ri,  where  he  says  ^^  ^^^^  ,„ 

Israel  unt.1  the  tUuess  of  ^  ^^^^  ^^.^^  ^^^^  ..Jerusalem 

And  so  the  Loid  Je.u.  ^^^^^.^  ^^^^  ^.__^^    ,    „^ 

shall  be  trodden  down  of  the  Wen 

Gentiles  be  tuWlW-'  ^^.^^^^^  .^pWly  for- 

Hence  «e  find  the  »="5     ^  ^  ..^  the  regions  be- 

ward  in  a  P^^'  ^f^^^  Z^Tli,^  a  rapidity  that  has 

-f;si:ercf>r.^'-— -'^^ 
"1;;:  r=r.ir h::itinct,y  tou .. . «» Bivme 

plan  in  the  next  chapter.  ^^^  tabernacle 

1  bI^:- --- -^^^^^^^^ 

nt:  is  the ,— ion  of  ^^;-^^^--z:st^ 

rr^ato^r.— ;::fr..HLse,f. 


> 


THE  MISSIOSARY  OUTLOOK. 


581 


Testa- 
uldress 

out  of 

i-pose  of 
nporary 
tie  Paul 
ers  ix  to 
led  unto 

erusalem 


es 


•\e 


pidly  for- 
sgions  be- 
that  has 
;s  of  their 


the  Divine 

tabernacle 
\e  breaches 

lit  people — 
i,  and  to  be 
f. 


So  the  Apostle  Paul  has  also  said  :  "And  so  all  Israel 
shall  be  saved  ;  for  it  is  written,  I  will  send  unto  Zion  a  De- 
liverer, and  He  shall  turn  away  ungodliness  from  Jacob." 

But  there  is  still  another  stage  of  development  in  this 

great  plan. 

James  has  also  sketched  it  with  a  bold,  clear  hand,  where 
he  adds  "that  the  residue  of  men  might  seek  after  the  Lord, 
ijud  all  the  Gentiles  upon  whom  my  name  is  called,  saith  the 
Lord,  who  doeth  all  these  things.  Known  unto  God  are  all 
His  works  from  the  beginning  of   the  world."    (Acts  xv, 

verses  U  to  1>.) 

This  last  section  unfolds  ihe  great  hope  of  the  world  and 
its  universal  salvation.  It  tells  us  of  the  time  when  the  resi- 
due of  men  and  all  the  Gentiles  shall  come  to  the  Lord.  That 
is  not  to  be  until  the  tabernacle  of  David  is  rebuilt  and  the 
Lord  Himself  has  come. 

Tf  therefore,  we  would  hasten  the  universal  salvation  of 
on.  d*..,  and  the  restitution  of  our  globe  to  its  long-lost 
peace  and  righteousness,  there  is  but  one  way  to  do  it,— to 
call  out  of  the  Gentiles,  as  quickly  as  possible,  the  people 
for  whom  Christ  is  waiting,  and  so  hasten  His  return,  and 
with  it  the  blessings  which  His  advent  will  bring,  and  which 
we  never  can  anticipate  without  His  iiersonal  presence. 

A   I'KACTUABLK   I'LAX. 

Now  this  plan  is  practicablc\  and  inmiediately  bo. 
The  conversion  of  the  world  is  beyond  our  power,  but 
the  evangelization  of  the  world,  so  as  to  bring  the  Gospel 


in  oar  grasp.    Anrt  whUe  .n  «»'"''  ^^       „,  ^  movement 

been  waiting.  ,      -limine  at  the  less  ; 

^awhile  we  can.^0   ^"^^  „„,i,,a  attack  upon  a  sin- 
line  successfully,  we  may,  "J 

gle  strategic  point,  carry  the  -hole  nv^  ^^^^  „, 

The  veal  strategic  po.nt  «  tt-'^"'  „f  the  Bride 

«.e  Lord,  and  the  gathering  ou^o-U  lands^^^^  ^  ^^^^^ 

„£  Jesus,  the  flndmg  out  "^^^^^Iv  ot  His  chosen  ones 
to  caU,  the  completmg  o    *h;nun^b;j  His  own  return, 
among  the  nations,  »<>*";"  .J.t  „„  that  distinct  and 
AU  this  throws  a  ^°^^'°^  '«      j         Himself  mad- 
unmistakable  promise  wh;^ Jta  L"    ^^  the  Kingdom  must 
t!he:^arr:uthe"orld,ar  a  witness  among  anna. 

tions,  and  then  shall  the  end  "me^  ^^^  j,^,^ 

Under  this  banner,  and  »».  ™'  "    .  „^,  „hich  repre- 
0.ostisto.daym^<.ringthem^s.nar^^^^^^^         ^,  ^^_^ 

^„t  the  blessed  hope  "*  '"l^Xe  in  a  wise,  concerted  and 
cherish  this  hope  umte  »  **-»  >"^^  ■;^  hope  to  see  the 

.holly  consecrated  moven^^^^^^^^^^  l^  ^^^  ^^^^^, 

consummation  o£  the  gianaehi 

hope  of  all  the  ages. 


is  with- 
Beem  a 
veraent 
I  larger 
B  of  the 
las  long 

the  less ; 
enemy's 
on  a  sin- 

oming  of 
,he  Bride 
3  waiting 
)sen  ones, 
•eturn. 
itinct  and 
self  made 
dom  must 
ng  all  na- 

the  Holy 
hich  repre- 
Bt  all  who 
Lcerted  and 
;  to  see  the 
B  sublimest 


r 


THJ-:  MISSIO.XAh'V  orrLOOK. 


583 


To  accompUsh  this  will  involve  tremendous  efforts,  even 
in  a  single  generation,  but  we  believe  it  is  not  impracticab  e. 

India,  for  examples  which  represents  one-th.rd  of  the 
unevangelized  people  of  the  globe,  could  easily  be  evangelized 

in  ten  years. 

Within  two  years,  our  own  humble  work  will  have 
planted  missionary  stations,  we  believe,  in  every  centre  of 
the  province  of  Berar,  so  that  there  will  be  a  missionary  for 
every  one  hundred  thousand  people,  or  a  missionary  party 
for  every  county  in  that  province,  and  every  human  being 
can  be  made  fairly  acjuainted  with  the  Gospel  withm  a 

decade  or  less.  ,    ^  ^, 

Now  if  this  can  be  done  in  Berai,  with  fifty  mission- 
aries, what  could  be  done  in  India  with  five  thousand  mis- 
sionaries ?  And  these  five  thousand  missionaries  could  more 
easily  be  sent  by  all  the  churches  of  Amenca  than  the  fifty 
that  we  have  sent  by  the  little  company  of  Christians  who 
are  standing  back  of  them.  .      ,  ^     • 

There  are  over  twenty  powerful  Societies  laboring  m 
India  If  each  of  these  would  send  two  hundred  and  fifty 
missionaries  into  the  field  within  the  next  five  years-that  is, 
fifty  a  year-India  would  have  a  force  of  five  thousand  move 
missionaries  at  the  end  of  five  years  ;  and  wisely  distributed 
in  the  unoccupied  fields,  these  would  be  sufficient  to  plant 
the  standard  of  the  cross  in  every  strategic  point  ot  that  vast 

^""^This  is  not  impracticable,  or  even  difficult,  with  a  church 
half  in  earnest. 


—'■: 


584        /  Al^CB,^  OUTLOOKS  0-V  MtSSlONAR  Y  LANDS. 

""■"Lt  us  pray  that  the  Holy  Ghost  will  open  the  eyes  and 
,         ^?  uiiis  of  His  people  to  an  enten-nse  commen- 
'■    r^  h  h!  vl    ess  of  the  opportanity  and  the  hope. 

"1  a  more  difficult  field,  and  we  need  to  go  mo^ 
.arnain«,a.el«^sof^^^^^^^^^^ 

laige  du  jiefflected  centres. 

-''iwjrnr  :Lt;sru  a„d  its — -«ua 

Atiica  1  ^^  before    His 

ra^'^dmsp^id^^  h-  oi«-d  the  way  in  advance 
f  T     !  l!h   !nd  we  ave  sure  that  it  a  great  concerted 

--"r.:;rti:;irar:::"^^^^ 

«esteT;":ie.  if  Uod.  people  would  honestly  face  rt 
and  rise  to  its  grandeur. 

THE  FAILUKK  AT  HOMK. 

The  greatest  lack  in  the  missionary  -^ov«"^«" ^'ifthe 

.        fit  foreign  but  the  home  end  of  the  work.     If  the 

"''  "       t  Swe  have  witnessed  abroad  among  the  mis- 

same  spnit  which  ^«  *^^  ^^^^.^  ^^,,,,^  i,,  the  churches 

reah/.t'd. 


vor  to 
)cietie8 
do  the 

res  and 
•mmen- 
lope. 
;o  more 
fields  in 
lialf  as 
vantage, 

is  still  a 
'ore  His 
advance 
;oncerted 
•r  Africa, 

V. 

have  sug 
ly  face  it 


to-day  is 
k.  If  the 
g  the  mis- 
e  churches 
•y  speedily 


T  ///-:  MISSION  A  RV  Of  TI.  OOk\ 


585 


It  seems  a  great  deal  to  say  that  the  churches  of  America 
gave  five  million  dollars  last  year  for  foreign  missions.  But 
how  much  did  they  keep  \  The  hest  autliorities  tell  us  that 
the  actual  increase  in  the  wealth  of  American  Christians  is 
five  hundred  million  dollars  every  year.  What  are  five 
million  dollars  <,ut  of  five  hundred  millions  \  Our  people 
could  give  two  Hundred  times  as  nmch  as  they  are  giving, 
and  yet  not  draw  a  single  dollar  upon  their  principal. 
Instead  of  seven  thousand  missionaries,  we  should  then  have 

a  million  and  a  lialf . 

This  would  give  one  missionary  to  every  seven  hundred 
of  the  heathen  world  ;  and  this  would  he  just  the  proportion 
in  which  this  land  is  supphed  with  ministers. 

Our  Christian  churclies  have  one  Protestant  minister  to 
every  six  or  seven  hundred  of  our  people.  We  send  one  mis- 
sionary to  every  five  hundred  thousand  heathen.  That  is  to 
say  we  do  nearly  seven  hundred  times  as  much  for  the 
evangelization  of   America  as  we  do  for  the  evangelisation 

of  the  heathen  world. 

We  laugh  at  the  egotism  of  China,  when  it  makes  its 
map  of  the  world  with  China  in  the  centre,  and  other  nations 
lying  in  httle  strips  along  the  edge.  But  in  the  sight  of 
heaven,  our  map  is  more  grotesque,  for  the  needs  of  America 
occupy  nearly  all  the  centre,  and  the  fringes  are  given  to  the 
myriads  of  unevangehzed  lands,  which  represent  twenty 
times  the  population  of  our  own  country. 

THE  REMEDY. 

How  is  this  state  cf  things  to  be  remedied  > 


,         t+inir  the  tnie  missionary 

,..t  of  an.  ..  ;;^>j-   '^.r  ""nt: ,:  a„a  th.  Chris- 
idea  into  the  hearts  of  the  L, mi 

""S:'a.y.    By  getting  CU*.»t™e,.. an  ...  eva„ge«.- 

tion  upon  the  hearts  of  Hispeope^  ^^^^^^  ^^^  p^^_ 

The  intelligent,  understanding  ot  „,i^„„ary 

posewillhe  of  immense  value  m  dnect    u  ^^^^_,^ 

work  of  all  the  churches  =u<l  so  met  ^^^^_^^^   ^^   ^^_^ 

rerror^ras^rt—  - — - 

•"^TWrdly    we  nray  lay  the responsihiUty of  thiswor.upon 

todividuals.  -*";^^;';X*::Uas  said,  "Go  ye  in..  aU 
It  is  to  each  of  us  that  i^  creature.' 

the  world,  and  preach  ^^^  ^^^^^^rld  some  one  in  our 
Wo  can  go  )ust  as  really  ^^^^^^^^^  ^^  ^,^^^^,,,, 

place,    we  behove  *at  the"J    ^„„^  .,  „„„„  t,  an  un- 
„eu  and  women  m  th>s    and  ^^„^,,,  ,„,,  ,(  our 

speakable  blessing  to  «-f "","";  their  work  as  to  give  to 
Missionary  Societies  could  so  ad3U.t^t_^^^  ^^^  ^^^^^^  ^^  „j 

our  people  this  opportunity,  a  ^_^.,^,^  ^,,,„^ 

the  Support  of  the  "-'--;'',  *:tians  of  this  land  who 
there  would  be  thousa^sot^^^^^^^^^^ 

would  gladly  accept  this  iesp< 


onary 
ChriB- 

ir  than 

great 

ight  of 

igelissa- 

ad  pur- 

isionary 
should 
of   the 

ition  as 

;)rk  upon 

into  all 

ne  inoiu' 
C'hristiau 
DC  an  un- 
and  if  our 
to  give  to 
al  cost  of 
sible  sum, 
land  who 


7 ///;  M/ss/o\.iA'  y  or'T/.oor. 


587 


In  our  own  work  we  have  found  this  to  he  a  great  inspira- 
tion, and  wo  believe  the  two  hundicd  already  employed  can 
be  increaaed  indefinitely  as  the  work  grows. 

Fourth.  We  must  cease  to  be  surprised  at  the  large 
gifts  which  the  rich  are  bestowing,  and  we  nuist  expect  that 
they  shall  do  nmch  more. 

We  must  not  be  surprised  when  men  give  millions,  in- 
stead of  thousands,  but  the  standard  of  our  expectation  must 
be  so  raised  that  men's  conception  of  duty  will  be  enhanced  to 
something  like  the  Master's  ideal  of  His  people  and  His  work. 
If  David,  at  a  single  offering,  gave  nearly  one-hundred  mil- 
lion dollars  for  the  erection  of  the  temple,  because  he  loved 
the  Lord  and  His  house  ;  how  much  more  becoming  that  we, 
with  far  greater  wealth  and  vaster  opportunities,  should  give 
as  grandly  for  the  erection  of  the  more  enduring  temple  of  the 
coming  Kingdom. 

There  are  individuals  who,  out  of  their  own  means, 
could  evangelize  whole  nations,  so  far  as  the  cost  is  con- 
cerned ;  and  we  ought  to  claim  for  these  last  days  of  the 
Christian  dispensation  a  consecration  as  magnificent  as  the 
opportunities  which  God  has  given  to  us. 

Fifth.  We  must  expect  a  higher  class  of  missionaries. 
The  day  is  past  for  supposing  that  anybody  will  make  a  mis- 
sionary, and  we  must  keep  our  best  talent  at  home. 

God  wants  the  strongest  men  for  the  foreign  field. 
There  are  no  such  opportunities  for  glorious  service  to  be 
found  at  home.  We  want  to  expect  large  numbers  of  our 
most  gifted  and  conseciated  men  and  women  to  choose  these 


i. 

M 


'^^SS^?*^*' 


^  (•  f.iith  and  love,  to  claim 

L„„.e  ,1,..  WO.W  .^  living  ■■-■'''•  ;f^.^,MUe,s  of  ChriBt 

„t  home  to  xacriftce  a.  much  a»  tte  m  ^^^^^^^ 

We  wan,  the  day  to  '<>'"<'.;'';"'  J  ,„„k  „t  »  i„  the 

.„d  .na„,ge„ce  ««.  ^'^^^^l^^  ,.„.  the  Hood  of 

'•^"  1  'r:::;r  Xm  :!.:«■  -eve,-  sought  to  »ave. 

— ir ;-e  -'  ^  r '  ihra:"!..  do  fo. 

„.  he.  and  gve^te.    H.«.  »  -^Ltio... .  the  min- 
telli«e,>t  faith  and  divine  de«.re  j„,.  j„^  ^„„. 

T„is,i.  the  *'«7  •,:';;';;;  ,j,„a  I  will  give  thee 

t'h:X,f  fo'th;rin.,e,.ita„ce.  and  the  uttermost  ,.a*  of 

''-  ';?•*  ::",rtii:x:::he  i... ,. «» ha..ve.t,  ^.t «« 

.end  forth  lal,o.ers  into  His  havv^t-  ^^^^^  ^^  _^^^^^^^ 

The,-e  is  nothing  "'•«  »^;':,f  ,^^tn  in  the  opening  of 
missions  than  answeml,>.a>e.  ■^^  „.  ,„ea„s  and 

hearts  of  the  heathen. 


n 


THE  MISSIONARY  OfTI.OOK. 


589 


I  liiim 

J  who 

id  set 
il,  and 
Christ 
rhurch 

d. 

luxury 
t  in  the 
)lood  of 


n  do  for 
he  min- 
itof  ia- 

Ji  accom- 
rive  thee 
b  i)arts  of 

,  i,l\at  He 

,f  modern 
opening  of 
neans  and 
t  upon  the 


May  wo  1k'  penniltod  to  mention  a  fow.  in  order  tc  .11- 
courage  and  inspire  our  friends  to  larger  outlooks  at    tJio 

throne? 

Some  years  ago,  a  few  women  met  in  a  New  England 
city  to  pray  that  Clod  would  send  large  gifts  of  means.  In 
that  town  there  lived  a  very  wealthy  man  who  was  not  partic- 
ularly friendly  to  foreign  missions.  A  few  months  later  he 
died,  leaving  one  of  the  largest  hequests  to  one  of  our  nus- 
sionary  Boards  which  had  ever  been  made  by  a  single  indi- 
vidual.  It  was  afterwards  found  that  he  had  made  his  will 
just  at  the  very  time  when  these  sisters  were  i>raying  in  that 
town.  He  never  knew  whence  came  the  touch  that  mov«.'d 
his  heart  to  give  that  numificent  bequest  for  the  worlds 
evangelization.  But  in  the  day  when  all  things  shall  be 
revealed,  those  simple  women  shall  be  credited  as  much  as 
he,  with  that  enormous  gift. 

A  few  months  ago,  the  writer  was  speaking  ,.1  a  West- 
ern meeting  on  missions,  and  telling  how  much  seven  mil- 
lion dollars  would  do  U>v  the  immediate  evangelization  of  the 
world.  He  noticed  a  very  remarkable  face  in  his  audience. 
It  was  a  dear  sister  in  a  Quaker  bonnet. 

She  grasped  him  warmly  by  the  hand  at  the  close,  and 
quietly  said  :  " I  think  Vvc  got  it."  '' Got  what  ? "  he  said. 
"Oh,  that  seven  miUion  dollars"  "Oh,"  h<  tsked,  "you 
mean  by  faith?"  "Yes,"  she  said,  "what  better  way  is 
there  to  get  it  ?    But  I  will  write  you  when  1  am  sure." 

A  few  weeks  later  he  received  a  letter  from  her,  written 
with  as  much  importance  as  if  she  had  sent  him  a  check 


590         LARC.F.K  OVTI.OOKS  OS  MISSIOSARY  LANDS, 

for  th«  seven  million  dollars,  and  she  Huitl :  "  Now  I  am 
sure,  and  you  may  ivly  upon  the  Lord  to  w.t.d  yo.i  that 
inoney  for  the  evangelization  of  tho  world." 

Wo  are  not  ashamed  to  Hay  that  wo  felt  quite  as  much 
encouraged  as  though  we  had  receivtnl  a  large  chock  from  a 

millionaire. 

In  the  Btory  of  Finney's  lif(  there  are  very  many  extra- 
ordinary examples  of   the  power  of  believing  prayer.     His 
greatest  helper  was  an  old  saint  who  had  been  miraculously 
baptized  of  tho  Holy  Ghost,  and  who,  when  he  prayed,  be- 
lieved.    In  his  i;ist  days  he  kept  a  diary  of  his  prayers,  and 
a  re<;ord  of  tin  {.laces  f'n-  which  he  had  prayed,  and  after  his 
death  his  diary  was  published,   and    compared    with    tho 
records  of  the  religious  press,  and  it  was  found  that  special 
times  of  blessing  had  followed  the  very  order  of  his  prayers, 
and  the  Holy  Ghost  had  been  poured  out  in  an  extraordinary 
manner  in  the  places  for  which  he  had  prayed.     That  man, 
from  his  little  closet,  had  been  able  to  sweep  the  world  with 
the  power  of  God's  almighty  hand. 

While  in  India,  tho  wi  iter  met  a  very  beautiful  girl,  the 
wife  of  a  native  preacher,  and  learned  that  she  was  one  of  a 
class  of  five  who  many  years  before  were  heathen  girls  filled 
with  all  the  degradation  and  misery  of  a  heathen  training. 

So  discouraged  had  their  teacher  become  that  she  was 
almost  on  the  point  of  abandoning  her  work.  She  wrote  to 
a  Christian  friend  in  Ohio  and  asked  him  to  pray  for  them. 

One  Saturday  night,  he  came  home  from  his  work  and 
went  into  his  closet  and  spent  the  evening  in  prayer  for  those 


4 


I', 


VDS. 


THE  A//SS/(^X.  Iff  y  OCTLOOK. 


59r 


Now  I  am 
I   you  that 

ito  fus  much 
uH;k  from  a 

laiiy  oxtra- 
rayer.  His 
liraculously 
prayed,  be- 
)rayei-s,  and 
,n(l  after  his 
I  with  the 
that  Bpecial 
his  i)rayer8, 
ctraordinary 
That  man, 
)  world  with 

iful  girl,  the 
was  one  of  a 
an  girls  filled 
a  training, 
hat  she  was 
She  wrote  to 
T  for  them, 
his  work  and 
lyer  for  those 


girls.  At  the  doHo  he  felt  that  lie  had  Injen  answered,  and 
ho  rose  frr)m  his  knees  and  wrAte  to  his  friend  that  God 
would  save  those  girls. 

That  Saturday  inKht  was  Hubbath  morning  in  India,  and 
at  the  very  hour  when  he  was  piaying  for  them,  those  girls 
we«)  gathering  with  their  teacher  in  the  class.  She  was  sur- 
l)rised  that  their  whole  manner  was  changed,  and  at  the  close 
of  the  class  they  came  to  her  :ind  asked  her  to  forgive  them, 
and  prorjiised  to  live  a  Christuj'  life.  They  kept  their  word, 
and  all  of  them  have  become  Ci- i^itian  women. 

Could  we  have  seen  what  heaven  witnessed  that  day,  we 
would  have  beheld  a  flash  pass  upward  from  that  little  closet 
until  it  reached  the  heart  of  Christ ;  and  then,  after  linger- 
ing a  moment,  borne  onward  by  the  Hi  ly  Ghost,  continue  its 
circuit  until  it  fell,  with  the  morning  sunlight,  in  the  centre 
of  India,  where  it  breathed  the  living  love  and  peace  of 
heaven  uj)on  those  heathen  souls.  Oh,  beloved,  thus  may 
we  all  be  missionaries. 

Not  less  mighty  is  the  jwwer  of  prayer  to  remove  diffi- 
culties. 8om(>  iime  ago,  in  Qnangsi,  the  Southern  Baptists 
had  established  their  first  station  in  that  difficult  province. 
After  awhile,  the  drought  began  to  disturb  the  minds  of  the 
people,  and  their  priests  told  them  it  was  because  the  dragon 
was  offended  on  account  of  the  foreigners,  and  they  must 
drive  them  out. 

They  gave  them  four  days  to  leave,  and  told  them  that  if 
within  that  time  the  rain  did  not  come,  they  would  have  to  go. 

They  gathered  together  for  prayer,  and  waited  unceas- 


j     A!-**-"" 


A/** 


m 


592  LARGER  OCTLOOk'S  OX  JflSSrONARY  LANDS. 

ingly  upon  the  Lord.  Before  the  end  of  the  stipulated  time, 
the  clouds  gathered,  the  rains  fell,  the  mission  was  saved, 
and  the  heathen  were  compelled  to  acknowledge  the  hand  of 

the  living  God. 

These  are  some  of  the  things  that  prayer  can  accom- 
plish. 

Prayer  can  send  laborers  into  the  harvest,  and  the  right 
kind  of  laborers.  There  is  nothing  more  important  or  diffi- 
cult than  the  securing  of  the  right  kind  of  missionaries. 
Many  of  the  most  promising  candidates  are  liable  to  fail 
when  they  reach  the  field.  The  Holy  Spirit  alone  can  select 
the  workers  who  can  endure  the  pressures  of  climate  and 
circumstances,  and  who  possess  the  qualities  of  mind,  body 
and  heart  which  will  perfectly  fit  them  for  this  difficult 
work.  One  heaven-sent  missionary  is  worth  a  dozen  of 
mere  human  selection. 

God  can  take  men  from  every  class  of  society  in  answer 
to  prayer.  A  few  years  ago,  in  a  most  wonderful  manner, 
while  friends  in  London  were  praying  for  God  to  raise  up 
missionaries  from  among  the  educated  young  m-n  of  Eng- 
land, a  spontaneous  movement  at  that  very  time  sprang  up 
among  the  Cambridge  students,  and  while  the  Board  meet- 
ing in  London  was  praying,  a  telegram  came  to  one  of  the 
secretaries,  asking  the  committee  to  meet  and  pray  for  young 
men  who  were  waiting  upon  the  Lord  about  their  call  to  the 

foreign  field. 

Prayer  can  raise  up  workers  from  among  the  natives 
who  will  become  like  Sheshadri  in  India,  Neeissima  in  Japan, 


}'  LANDS. 

stipulated  time, 
;sion  was  saved, 
3dge  the  hand  of 

ayei'  can  accom- 

5t,  and  the  right 
iportant  or  diffi- 
of  missionaries, 
ire  hable  to  fail 
;  alone  can  select 
s  of  climate  and 
es  of  mind,  body 
for  this  difficult 
orth  a  dozen  of 

society  in  answer 
»nderful  manner, 
God  to  raise  up 
mg  m'-n  of  Eng- 
f  time  sprang  up 
the  Board  meet- 
me  to  one  of  tlie 
id  pray  for  young 
t  their  call  to  the 

Bong  the  native* 
seissima  in  Japan^ 


THE  MISSIONARY  OlTI.OOfC, 


593 


and  Rabinowitch  in  Russia,  instruments  in  the  hand  of  God 
to  call  their  own  people  unto  Christ.  Oh,  may  the  Holy 
Ghost  call  some  of  us  as  definitely  to  this  ministry  as  He 
has  called  others  to  the  field  ! 

This  is  a  special  priesthood  to  which  God  will  ordain 
willing  and  consecrated  hearts  who  stand  continually  in  the 
holy  F-  'ce,  and  hold  the  incense  in  believing  prayer. 

Of  such  men  He  says  :  "  I  have  chosen  you  and  ordained 
you  that  you  should  go  and  bring  forth  much  fruit,  and  that 
your  fruit  should  remain,  and  that  whatsoever  ye  shall  ask 
the  Father  in  My  Name,  He  may  give  it  you." 

The  ordination  is  unto  prayer  as  nmch  as  for  fruit-bear- 
ing. Oh,  for  men  who  have  been  set  apart  for  the  special 
purpose  of  getting  answers  to  their  prayers  ! 

We  read  in  the  Book  of  Revelation  that  when  the  in- 
cense of  prayer  had  been  presented  before  the  throne  by  the 
ministering  angel,  "  there  was  silence  in  heaven  by  the  space 
of  half  an  hour."  Everything  above  was  hushed,  that  the 
whisper  of  prayer  might  be  heard.  Then  we  read,  "the 
censer  was  filled  with  coals  of  fire  that  were  poured  out  upon 
the  earth,  and  there  were  voices  and  thunderings,  and  a 
great  earthquake." 

And  so,  when  we  are  true  to  this  mighty  priesthood,  and 
send  up  through  the  ministering  hands  of  our  ascended 
Lord,  our  believing  intercession,  the  waiting  heavens  will 
listen,  the  mighty  forces  of  Providence  will  begin  to  move, 
and  the  trembling  earth  will  reverberate  with  the  echoes  of 
His  mighty  working  and  the  tread  of  myriad  feet,  as  the 


594 


LARGER  or r LOOKS  ON  MISSIONARY  LANDS. 


procession  of  the  advent  heralds  moves  forward  to  meet  the 
Master's  coming. 

Above  all  other  blessings,  prayer  \v'ill  uphold  the  lone 
workers  on  the  field,  and  give  us  a  hallowed  partnership  in 
their  toils,  trials  and  recompenses. 

They  have  gone  there  to  represent  us,  as  well  as  Him. 
Let  us  not  for  a  moment  rail  to  uphold  them,  and  to  be  the 
channels  of  life  and  blessing  to  their  hearts  as  they  go  down 
amid  the  awful  depths  of  heathen  darkness. 

HOLD  THE  ROPES. 

Down  amid  the  depths  cf  heathen  darkness 

There  are  heroes  true  and  brave, 
Shrinking  not  from  pain,  and  toil  and  danger, 

They  liave  gone  to  help  and  save. 
But  we  hear  them  calling,  ' '  Do  not  leave  us 

Mid  these  dreadful  depths  to  drown  ; 
Let  us  ever  feel  your  arms  beneath  us, 

Hold  the  ropes,  as  we  go  down." 

So  beneath  the  billows  of  the  ocean 

Divers  plunga  for  treasures  rare, 
But  through  hands  that  hold  tLe  ropes  above  them 

Still  they  breathe  the  upper  all 
Seeking  precious  pearls  of  richer  value. 

Braver  hearts  have  dared  to  go ; 
But  our  faithful  hands  must  every  moment 

Hold  the  ropes  that  reach  below. 

Who  can  understand  the  awful  darkness 

Of  these  realms  of  Sin  and  Death  ? 
Even  the  very  air  is  scorched  and  poisoned 

With  the  Dragon's  fetid  breath. 
But  across  the  widest  ocean  billows 

Love  can  reach  to  heathen  lands, 
And  beneath  the  deepest,  darkest  surges 

Prayer  can  hold  a  brother's  hands. 


m 


4RY  LANDS. 
Di'ward  to  meet  the 

11  uphold  the  lone 
i^ed  partnership  in 

IS,  as  well  as  Him. 
hem,  and  to  be  the 
ts  as  they  go  down 

IS. 

brknesB 
id  danger, 
eave  us 


THE  MISSIONARY  OLTLOOK. 

Think  yon  was  it  only  for  our  brotlier 

JeHUS  epaite  His  last  conimands  ? 
Is  tliere  nothing  left  for  you  to  suffer 

In  these  dark  and  heatlien  lands  ? 
If  you  cannot  go  yourself  to  gave  them, 

There  are  those  that  you  can  send. 
And  with  loving  arms  strtrtched  out  to  help  them 

Hold  the  roiJes,  as  they  descend. 

Let  us  hold  the  ropes  with  hands  more  loyal, 

Let  us  pray  with  ftith  more  strong  ; 
I^et  the  love  that  never  fails  nor  fa'ters 

Faint  not,  though  the  strife  be  long. 
Let  us  lay  our  treasures  on  the  altar. 

Let  us  give  our  children  too ; 
There's  a  part  for  ea''.h  io  this  great  l>attle. 

And  the  Lord  has  need  of  you. 


595 


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